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This is a nice piece, but by using drawer fronts as the front of your shelf, I don't think it quite lives up to the name, "hidden storage." In fact, I think I'd call it, "expected storage." :)
You can use a higher capacity battery, as long as the voltage is the same. For instance, I have an old UPS that's built to take the standard 12v, 7.5 amp hour SLA batteries. It's supporting some low power, but pretty important hardware, so I have it running off of three of the larger 12v 15 amp hour batteries hooked up in parallel, effectively acting as a 12v 45 amp hour battery, or about 6.5x the original capacity. With the draw it needs to support, it can last for about two days.
You can use any DC supply you like, including lithium batteries. Just make sure the voltage it supplies is within the range the UPS expects. In my experience, between about 13.25 and 11.75 seems to work, although different units have slightly different ranges.
Hmm, chalk; I'll have to try that. Seems like the chalk wouldn't really stay in the teeth for long, but it's certainly worth testing. I suppose the paraffin I have always used has mostly been a matter of what's at hand in my shop.
tedlabete, You want to reduce the amperage drawn from each individual cell, not the total needed for any given device. If your device draws 2 amps, for instance, instead of using two cells which would both need to provide 1 amp, you might use three or four cells, instead. That way each only has to provide 0.60 or 0.5 amps.
Nice writeup, Battery Bro. Great to see so much useful info collected in one place.
How to Prolong the Life of an 18650 Battery
Actually, cutting annealed copper can be a lot more difficult. It may be counterintuitive, but the metal gets so soft, it's actually kind of "sticky" and tends to gum up the cutting tool. Hard copper is still way softer than any tool steel you'd be using to cut it, and the chips will clear the kerf more easily.
Oh, yeah, files are a pain for working with soft metals! They load up so quickly and are hard to clean One handy trick to at least make cleaning the file easier is to first use it on a piece of paraffin wax or an old candle stub. After each time you clean the file with a file card or bristle brush, hit it with the paraffin again.
This project should be clearly titled as a non-functional sculpture, and should probably also be in the Crafts section instead of Metalworking.
Yes, you can. Take a look for wood gassification and condensation. It's the same idea, only starting with a different set of hydrocarbons.
Nice job! One tip: if you anneal the wire before wrapping it, you won't have much trouble with spring-back. To anneal copper, just heat it cherry red and let it cool. It doesn't have to be all at once and there's no need to quench it. It will oxidize from the heating, though, so either some steel wool before wrapping or some good acid flux while soldering will be necessary. Cheers!
Nice, simple, clear instructable. What so many naysayers seem to forget is that it's rarely the particular tools you use to do a job that has the most impact on the final results, but the skill with which you wield the tools available. The main advantage of tools like crimpers is that they remove a certain amount (but certainly not all) of the skill needed for good results. I suspect that this method, skillfully applied, is just as good as the "professional" method for the vast majority of applications. Add in a well done solder joint, and you are absolutely golden.
I have that problem, too. I use "shoe-goo" shoe repair and it works pretty well. It usually lasts for several months before I have to do it again. It occurs to me that alternating layers of Flex Seal and good quality cloth gaffer's tape would make a very strong, flexible, watertight patch as well.
You can also do it the old fashioned way by putting the wood in a metal container with a pinhole in it and placing the container in a fire for 10 minutes or so. For such a small piece, you could probably use an altoids tin or an old metal 35mm film can and a blowtourch. https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Your-Own-Charcoal-at-Home-Video/
Excellent and elegant. I'll definitely be doing this!
It seems like you'd get smoother, more accurate results if the in-feed side hole is larger than the desired out-feed size. Adjust the blade height to exactly line up with the bottom edge of the out-feed hole. Taper the tip a bit to start it and it should feed through nice and smoothly, with very little vibration on the other side since the exiting dowel very closely matches the guide hole. You might even pass it through a block of foam to be sure to dampen any vibration. At least, it works in my head. :) I'll have to give it a try tomorrow. Thanks for sharing!