gzumwalt

Hi nlkirchn!I'm glad you are now up and running!There are many good sites for Arduino style programming. Also, in your Arduino environment, select the "File, Examples" menu and you'll find a number of examples from blinking a led to, if you've installed the wifi libraries, web servers. The Adafruit site has many useful examples, as well as this one, Instructables.The Arduino environment supports both C and C++ programming, so if you're not yet a "programmer". studying these sites may help also.Best wishes!Greg

Hi nlkirchn,Sorry for the difficulties.You can either:1) swap the wires on one coil of the stepper, or2) in the function Step(), change: nPhase = ((nDirection < 0) ? (nPhase - 1) : (nPhase + 1)) & 7;to nPhase = ((nDirection < 0) ? (nPhase + 1) : (nPhase - 1)) & 7;Hope this helps!Greg

Hi ThomasD260,The problems I've that could cause this are friction, crankshaft journal timing, piston located wrong on the piston rod, and the valve plate installed upside down.This model will operate by blowing into it, so check the videos I posted to make sure your model operates as easily and smoothly as those in the videos.Best wishes!Greg

Hi reichert99,Yes, the esp32 accesses an ntp server using wifi to maintain the correct time. If you search for ntp servers, you'll find a variety of ip addresses where ntp time is available.Greg

Hi nlkirchn!Well a very much earned congratulations is in order! This was one of my more complicated designs and for anyone to succeed is a great achievement!At 63, I've some catching up to do, but I hope I can still accomplish efforts such as yours in 13 years.Congratulations again, and many thanks!Greg

You are very welcome.Here's something I published you may find helpful: https://www.instructables.com/id/Stepper-Motor-Tes...Greg

Thank you very much, I'm glad you liked it!This isn't the first time that's happened here, but I did just downloaded "Rear.stl", loaded into Cura 3.5.1 and it appears fine, but I will let Instructables know of the difficulties you are experiencing.Thanks again!Greg

That error is beacause your computer is not detecting the esp32. Check this tutorial: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-huzzah32-esp32-feather/using-with-arduino-ide.Your projects look outstanding! Very nice work and congratulations!Greg

hi nlkirchn,I'm truly sorry about the errors you are experiencing. You, and others, have experienced similar results, most likely on a PC (I use a Mac). When I click on your attachment, I get the following message: "403 ForbiddenRequest forbidden by administrative rules."Therefore I cannot read it.I've heard these help:1) https://robotzero.one/heltec-wifi-kit-32/2) https://techtutorialsx.com/2017/11/03/esp32-arduino-websocket-server/3) https://techtutorialsx.com/2017/11/01/esp32-arduino-websocket-client/Best wishes,Greg

Hi PerterO127,Sorry for the delayed response and the difficulties you've encountered with this model.I use a MacBook Pro and the libraries I downloaded are unmodified from GitHub.h following the guidelines from the various manufactures. I've not experienced the problems you are encountering, so I do not no what to suggest. The libraries I downloaded and installed worked without modifications, but, the esp32 chip has numerous hardware and firmware problems across the development platforms so it's difficult for me to tell you where to begin.Sounds like you are making progress!Greg

You may use either. There is a 1mm PLA gap between the magnet(s) and the pins, so the pins never come in direct contact with the magnet(s). If you use a stronger magnet, use fewer, and if you use weaker magnet, use more. I used three weaker magnets and they worked great, just experiment with the quantity.Greg

Thank you!Hope you get your printer operational soon!Greg

I’ll be anxious to see your results no matter which methods you choose!Thanks!Greg

Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed it!Greg

Hi nlkirchn,I use a Passport Ultra Dynamite balance charger. A balance charger is required since the battery used in this model is a dual cell lion battery.Hope this helps!Greg

Thank you very much, I'm truly glad you liked it!My kids and grandkids run all over the yard and parks flying this and the monoplane version. And to reaffirm the "template" idea, they've broken a few flight surfaces during indoor flight attempts...Thanks again!Greg

Thank you very much, I hope you enjoyed it!According to Cura 3.4.1, the costs of the flying plastic parts of this (biplane) model is $0.92 USD (14 grams of PLA), and for the monoplane model is $0.52 (9 grams of PLA). Also PLA is derived from renewable resources and is recyclable which I enjoy!Thanks again!Greg

This ones even happier!https://www.instructables.com/id/Animated-Illuminated-Happy-Ghost/Greg

Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it!Not an original idea of mine, as it's been around for years, but I did enjoy it!Greg

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!I was truly embarrassed that I overlooked the Sopwith Camel's biplane design, so I had to redeem myself as quickly as possible!:)Greg

I used magnets for balance for ease of adjustment, and once adjusted, I set them in place with thick cyanoacrylate glue.Thanks you very much, and here's the biplane version: https://www.instructables.com/id/Red-Baron-II-Han...Greg

I'm glad it brought back a good memory for you.Greg

Thanks, glad you liked it!A Fab Lab with a 3D printer could help, or maybe a print hub?Thanks again,Greg

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!P.S. The biplane was too heavy at this size to fly.Greg

Is there a Fab Lab near you? If not, perhaps a 3D print hub?Greg

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!I did not perform a drag test for the rubber band, but I did perform a weight and buoyancy test and, with the addition of a tube to contain the rubber band, the waterline rose to the point where 7/8ths of the hull was below the waterline which of course, dramatically increases drag. The goal of a boat like this is to minimize contact between the hull and waterline (e.g. get the boat on "plane" as fast as possible), and for a rubber band powered boat, this is the best I could come up with.Hope that helps!Greg

I know this sounds ridiculous, but I've had some of my designs manufactured without my consent by out of country companies who then proceed to sue me for infringement on "their" designs, thus my attorneys recommend I no longer publish the cad files except for educational (e.g. proven educational institutions) purposes.I am indeed sorry, but I didn't create this environment, I just have to live in it...Greg

Hi Donald,Thank you very much, thanks for the "hammer" idea, and you are very welcome (I was hoping you wouldn't mind the credit)!Greg

https://www.instructables.com/id/Complaint-Button-...Thanks for the "hammer" idea!

Thanks Donald,!I've got a remake project in process inspired by you in one of your videos, stay tuned!Greg

Thank you very much, I'm glad you liked it!Thanks for the video suggestion, but I'm too camera shy! :)Greg

Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it!It did make an "Intelligrill Pro" which did indeed have two probes plus a number of other features (auger control for a pellet smoker, etc.) but I had designed it using the Feather Huzzah 32 from Adafruit and experience static discharge issues that Adafruit could not resolve, so I never published it.Thanks again!Greg

Thanks Donald!I try to "stumble" across less expensive and time consuming solutions to problems, and this motor controller board in combination with the Heltec Kit 32 WiFi Kit 32 were great solutions for this model. I used the Heltec board since it has a built in display, is less expensive than other ESP32 boards (with a display), and is not "static discharge crash" sensitive as is the Adafruit ESP32 (I tried for weeks to solve the static discharge crash problem with the Adafruit board on an earlier project but failed, and had virtually no support from Adafruit, I was truly disappointed as I had previously loved Adafruit products, but their board must have a design issue). For use in this model, the motor controller heat sink could be smaller, but I've other plans ...

Thanks Donald!I try to "stumble" across less expensive and time consuming solutions to problems, and this motor controller board in combination with the Heltec Kit 32 WiFi Kit 32 were great solutions for this model. I used the Heltec board since it has a built in display, is less expensive than other ESP32 boards (with a display), and is not "static discharge crash" sensitive as is the Adafruit ESP32 (I tried for weeks to solve the static discharge crash problem with the Adafruit board on an earlier project but failed, and had virtually no support from Adafruit, I was truly disappointed as I had previously loved Adafruit products, but their board must have a design issue). For use in this model, the motor controller heat sink could be smaller, but I've other plans for this motor controller along with some 3D printed micro universal joints, stay tuned...Many thanks again, and I truly, truly enjoy your channel!Greg

It looks fantastic, congratulations!Greg

Thank you very much, and you are very welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it!Greg

Thank you very much, and I'm truly pleased this model made you happy!Greg

Thank you very much, I'm truly glad you liked it!The stacks are sealed at the bottom, and while I didn't show it on video, we filled them with water and added dry ice strips for a smoke effect. It worked quite well!Thanks again!Greg

Very nicely done, I love it!

Thanks Martin, I'm glad you liked it!None of the threads are left handed that I recall. Did you perhaps mirror a component with the slicer?Sorry for the problems.Greg

No problem at all!The printers I use do print quite small and accurate but I’m not sure how well the materials I use would remain attached to the copper during an etchant bath.Using the materials on light sensitive PCBs may work better, you’d just have to print in a darkroom environment .Ultimaker told me there is conductive filament available (not from Ultimaker), but from my understanding, it is resistive but I don’t recall an “ohms per inch” value.Good luck, and keep me informed of your progress, sounds very interesting!Greg

Sorry you are having difficulties with this model.Did you print the gears on a raft?If so, try scaling down the X, Y plane of the gear (not the Z) by a very small amount, print two gears, then try them on the model (you may have to slightly enlarge the hole for the axle).Hope this helps.Greg

Thank you, I'm glad you liked it!Greg

“This is a work of fiction. Any resemblance to actual persons, movie characters, etc., living or dead, is purely coincidental.”:)Greg

Thank you very much, I'm very happy you enjoyed it!Greg

When you say "freeze", you mean your printer just stops?What printer are you using?

That depends on what you mead when you say it "stops about half way". Is your printer air printing? Does it freeze up? Is the model skewing?First, using Cura, place the viewport mode in "layer view" the, using the vertical slider, make sure Cura t is producing a slicing pattern suitable for your printer.Next, if it is air printing, then it's more than likely a nozzle or filament feed issue.And finally, if the model is skewing, then it is more than likely a printer issue (loose belt, loose build plate, etc.).I'm not sure which it is, but hopefully with a little more experimentation we can fix the issue.Sorry about the problems you have had with this model.Greg

Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed it!I do tend toward mechanical designs with "some assembly required".Thanks again,Greg

The libraries have the same names as the ".h" files, thus you will need to add "time.lib", "WiFi.hlib, "WiFiUdp.lib" and "U8g2lib.lib" to your sketch. On a Mac, these libraries are located in "Documents/Arduino/libraries".Hope this helps!Greg