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Hi reddragonzz,Congratulations, excellent work!Greg

Hi rocket radhi,Thank you, I hope you enjoyed it!Greg

Hi CarraN,No it would not. While Mr. da Vinci's designs were advanced for his era, his attempts at perpetual motion were just that, attempts. Mine are just conversation pieces illustrating his models in three dimensions, and this version wouldn't rotate much if at all without the motor.Greg

Hi colin55,I hope you enjoyed it. I have a "few" myself.Greg

Hi dana2048,Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it!Greg

Hi GregS278,I'm truly sorry, but I do not sell the designs I create.Greg

Hi WeTeachThemSTEM,Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed it!Greg

Hi kaoyu89,I'm truly sorry, but I do not sell the models I create.But many thanks for asking, I hope you enjoyed it!Greg

Hi mrmkurtz,Thank you very much, I'm truly glad you liked this model!I print and assemble one piece at a time. Between prints, I spend the time cleaning the previously printed part (e.g. filing, sanding, trimming, etc.). As have you, I discovered that a better model is created using this method.Thanks again!Greg

Hi xeski,Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed this model!Good question. First, for a given area, a square piston provides more volume than a round one thus provides a slight increase in power. And second, a square piston is easier to sand and file into proper shape than a round one.Hope that answers your question and thanks again!Greg

Hi JonS176,I'm glad you liked it, I use them all the time!I'm very sorry but I forgot that step in the video and did not make another.Thanks again!Greg

Hi Build_it_Bob,Many thanks again, and again I'm glad you enjoyed it!No 3D printing at this stage yet, but the next installation of the series does (https://www.instructables.com/id/ESP32-NTP-Tempera... The buttons attracted much more attention than the thermometer, so I may end it at the thermometer.Thanks again!Greg

hi daisyd15,The answer provided by Gruntfuttock sounds like a great start!You could also use two arrays, one for the day of the week, and a second for the month, to contain the text, for example:char* DayOfWeek[7] = {"Mon", "Tue", "Wed", "Thu", "Fri", "Sat", "Sun"};Then display the day of the week as:sprintf(chBuffer, "%s", DayOfWeek[n]);Where "n" is the day of the week 0, through 6.Best wishes!Greg

Thank you very much, I'm truly glad you enjoyed it!Greg

Hi auderyobscura,Yes, in order to obtain accurate temperatures with NTP temperature probes, this is one of a few ways, and my favorite. It is quite a mathematical discussion of where the numbers come from, , but in the end it's just a few measurements in a spreadsheet, a copy and paste into the source code, and that's it!Greg

Hi efoster6,No, I'm sorry, but I no longer publish on Thingiverse.Greg

Hi nlkirchn,Well, I create enough problems myself before a design is completed, so I'm in the same boat (or bunny in this case). I try to catch all errors before publishing a design, and, well, more than once, as in this case, I've missed.:)Greg

Hi MarkS_MN,Your are very welcome, glad you were successful!Greg

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-I-Designed-a-3D-Printed-Windup-Car-Using-Autod/

Here's a start: If the interest is there, I'll be happy to complete the design process.Greg

Hi RobinH61,That looks wonderful, congratulations!Greg

Wonderful work, congratulations!Greg

Hi POV14uz,Thank you very much, I'm happy that you enjoyed it!Greg

Hi nlkirchn,You are very welcome and I'm glad you were successful!Again, I'm truly sorry for the difficulties I caused.Greg

Hi rjford,I downloaded the latest "Frame, Left.stl" and it is the latest with the spacer removed from the hole for "Knob and Axle.stl". Could you pease try again and check to see if you receive the frame with the spacer removed?Many thanks, and I'm truly sorry for my error.Greg

Hi kshowell,Many thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it!Greg

Hi dkingma,You are doing nothing wrong, it's my fault, and I'm truly sorry for the difficulties.I made a mistake and uploaded an incorrect "Frame, Left.stl" and have since uploaded the correct "Frame, Left.stl". There is a "spacer" extending from the hole for "Knob and Axle.stl" in the left frame that should not be there (the spacer also appears in the assembly images in "Step 3: Assemble the Frames"). The spacer needs to be removed using a small hand saw, motor tool with a cutoff wheel at slow speed, or a modeling knife using multiple passes. Once removed, when "Spring.stl" is pressed onto "Knob and Axle.stl", the spring should be within .4mm from the inside of "Frame, Left.stl". If you do not have tool...

Hi dkingma,You are doing nothing wrong, it's my fault, and I'm truly sorry for the difficulties.I made a mistake and uploaded an incorrect "Frame, Left.stl" and have since uploaded the correct "Frame, Left.stl". There is a "spacer" extending from the hole for "Knob and Axle.stl" in the left frame that should not be there (the spacer also appears in the assembly images in "Step 3: Assemble the Frames"). The spacer needs to be removed using a small hand saw, motor tool with a cutoff wheel at slow speed, or a modeling knife using multiple passes. Once removed, when "Spring.stl" is pressed onto "Knob and Axle.stl", the spring should be within .4mm from the inside of "Frame, Left.stl". If you do not have tools to remove the spacer, you will unfortunately need to print the new "Frame, Left.stl". My sincerest apologies for my error.Greg

Hi SilviaM42,I did no surface preparation, but I did print this model at .06mm vertical resolution which gave it the look I was searching for.I'm truly glad you enjoyed the model!Greg

Hi cuPLTW,Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed it!I've purchased these and other sized rings at my local "Ace Hardware" store, and I've also purchased them in an assortment box (see photograph) online. It is much cheaper to buy the assortment box than individual o-rings, and I use them often in my designs, so I usually buy the assortment box.Hope that helps!Greg

Hi popi1854,Thanks for the tips! I've learned something new!Greg

Hi micomender,That's an idea...Greg

Hi nlkirchn,I'm sorry for the difficulties you are having.Please check the following:1) Check to make sure none of the frame or carriage components are warped (I had a carriage side warp slightly, so I had to wash my glass build plate and print it again).2) Check to make sure all the build plate side "ooze" has been removed from the gears as this will cause binding. I'm now using a handheld motor tool running at slow speed with a wire brush attachment to clean the gear teeth as opposed to filing, it is much faster and I'm slowly getting better at it.3) Check to make sure the floating pinion gears rotate freely about "Gear, Compound ((8, 1.5), (40, 1.5))" before the axles and wheels are installed. If not, you may need to slightly loosen the carriage axles and bolts....

Hi nlkirchn,I'm sorry for the difficulties you are having.Please check the following:1) Check to make sure none of the frame or carriage components are warped (I had a carriage side warp slightly, so I had to wash my glass build plate and print it again).2) Check to make sure all the build plate side "ooze" has been removed from the gears as this will cause binding. I'm now using a handheld motor tool running at slow speed with a wire brush attachment to clean the gear teeth as opposed to filing, it is much faster and I'm slowly getting better at it.3) Check to make sure the floating pinion gears rotate freely about "Gear, Compound ((8, 1.5), (40, 1.5))" before the axles and wheels are installed. If not, you may need to slightly loosen the carriage axles and bolts.4) Check to make sure the gear motor operates freely and rotates the carriage assembly fully to the crossmember stop, then releases, before the axles and wheels are installed.5) Check to make sure the carriage is installed in the proper orientation as shown in the exploded views (yes, I did do that, once).Hopefully, these items will help. An any event, please keep me updated and I will try to come up with other solutions.Again, I'm truly sorry for the difficulties you've encountered.Greg

Hi jimbarstow,Best wishes on your success using the mesh editor!For me, it depends on the project as to why I upload the cad files. I've created Instructables where I do provide the cad files for tutorials such as https://www.instructables.com/id/Designing-a-Simpl... and this https://www.instructables.com/id/Designing-a-Param... and for designs allowing customization such as this https://www.instructables.com/id/Ping-Pong-Popper/...But for most designs, I simply publish the STL files for printing as deriving the individual components in the correct orientation from the CAD file places too much burden on the person who simply wants to print a model.Greg

Hi jimbarstow,I'm truly sorry, I uploaded an old "Frame, Left.stl" and have since uploaded the correct "Frame, Left.stl". The riser indeed should not be there, and can be removed with a small saw or motor tool if you have those tools available.Again, my sincerest apologies.Greg

Hi randofo,Thank you very much, I am truly honored that you enjoyed this model!I learn by making quite a few mistakes, and I began this design with a concept similar to what you described, and as you experienced, it did not work very well. So I altered the design to allow the rubber band to release from the axle and, well, here it is.I indeed learn from my many mistakes and have discovered that mistakes are not bad at all, as long as I learn something new from them :).Thanks very much again!Greg

Hi edca2001,Thank you very much, I'm glad you like it!Greg

Hi ToddK4,I'm glad you enjoyed the spring motor, I have two on my desk and they indeed make a great fidget toy and conversation piece. I hope you do print Bunny 2, my kids and grandkids enjoyed it and I bet your little girl will too.And you are very welcome, I truly enjoy sharing as my goal is creating smiles!Greg

Hi Renega,Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed it!Greg

Hi Build_it_Bob,Good question. I used Autodesk Fusion 360 to design this model and generate the exploded views. For simpler models, I usually photograph the assembly steps. However, for more complicated models I use the Autodesk Fusion 360 "Capture Image..." menu item as it is much easier to obtain the exact camera angle I'm looking to illustrate an assembly step or series of assembly steps than is the photography method.Hope that helps!Greg

Hi Build_it_Bob,Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed it (and I'm now blushing...)!I started 3D printing about 6 years ago and have more fun 3D printing than machining; it's much faster, virtually no waste (well, with the exception of my numerous mistakes), and no clean up!Jewelers files come in very handy, especially when gears are involved. I've recently starting using a handheld motor tool with a wire brush attachment to prepare gears as it is much faster, and I have obtained pretty good results.Thanks again!Greg

Hi Build_it_Bob,I've been working with Fusion 360 for a little over 2 years and my wife will testify how frustrated I was during the first few weeks. Because of its numerous features it does have a steeper learning curve than other cad programs.Previous to Fusion 360, I used a cad program called Sketchup. It was easier to learn, but much more difficult to model with since, at the time at least, Sketchup was not a true solid modeling tool thus after minor edits, much clean up work had to be performed.And previous to Sketchup, many years ago, I worked with a cad program called Autocad, primarily for electrical schematic generation.The parametric enclosure took me about 15 minutes to design, and about 4 hours to record since I kept making mistakes!Thanks very much, I'm glad you enjoyed i...

Hi Build_it_Bob,I've been working with Fusion 360 for a little over 2 years and my wife will testify how frustrated I was during the first few weeks. Because of its numerous features it does have a steeper learning curve than other cad programs.Previous to Fusion 360, I used a cad program called Sketchup. It was easier to learn, but much more difficult to model with since, at the time at least, Sketchup was not a true solid modeling tool thus after minor edits, much clean up work had to be performed.And previous to Sketchup, many years ago, I worked with a cad program called Autocad, primarily for electrical schematic generation.The parametric enclosure took me about 15 minutes to design, and about 4 hours to record since I kept making mistakes!Thanks very much, I'm glad you enjoyed it and hope it helped!GregP.S. I think I still have a box for you.

Hi JonS176,I'm glad you enjoyed this Instructable, and you are very welcome!I export both the base and lid to separate files, then load both into Cura 3.5.0 (the slicer I use) and select "Select All Models" then "Merge". Cura then places the two pieces together, ready for printing.You can, however, accomplish the same from within Fusion 360 by selecting the "Modify, Combine" feature. When selected, the Combine menu pops up. Simply select the lid for the"Target Body", the base for the "Tool Bodies", "Join" for the operation, then check both "New Component" and "Keep Tools", and finally select "Ok". Fusion 360 will then create a new component with both lid and base bodies.Hope this helps!Greg

Hi ebrennan5,Thank you very much, I am truly glad you enjoyed this model and my other designs!I have not posted a screen capture design process for anything other than the containers, hinges and "two gear" tutorials that I published. A screen capture of a model such as this would require some time to capture since I'm quite confident I would make numerous mistakes during the screen capture process and have to perform numerous restarts!Regarding Thingiverse, I post there on and off due to low traffic. I'm not sure if it's Thingiverse, Thingiverse members or both, but there seems to be little interest in what I publish there.Regarding gears, yes, I do add tolerance between the gears. I add the pitch radius of the two gears to a "tolerance" value to space the gears. ...

Hi ebrennan5,Thank you very much, I am truly glad you enjoyed this model and my other designs!I have not posted a screen capture design process for anything other than the containers, hinges and "two gear" tutorials that I published. A screen capture of a model such as this would require some time to capture since I'm quite confident I would make numerous mistakes during the screen capture process and have to perform numerous restarts!Regarding Thingiverse, I post there on and off due to low traffic. I'm not sure if it's Thingiverse, Thingiverse members or both, but there seems to be little interest in what I publish there.Regarding gears, yes, I do add tolerance between the gears. I add the pitch radius of the two gears to a "tolerance" value to space the gears. The tolerance value varies depending on the colors I use, and for publishing, I usually use .4mm. Also, after printing, I use either jewelers files or a handheld motor tool with a wire brush wheel to remove the build plate "ooze", as this is an important step for proper gear mesh.Many thanks again!Greg

Hi seabirdhh,Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed it and it's good to hear from you again!Greg

Hi barcesat,I'm truly sorry for neglecting to upload "Arm Drive.stl". Must be getting older...Thanks for your help in pointing that out!Greg

Hi Alex,Thanks, I'm glad you liked it, and you are welcome!Greg

Hi GregoryD49,You are very welcome, I hope you enjoyed it!Greg

Hi Rouverius,Congratulations, great work!Greg

Hi Lorddrake,You are very welcome!I've been using Autodesk Fusion 360 for almost two years, and I'm still learning!Greg

Hi GregoryD49,Congratulations, very nice work!Designs such as these are difficult to print, sand, trim, file, etc., but you've succeeded!Greg

Hi afrancis123,I have no experience with Tinkercad, but yesterday I took the time to look into your question and, unfortunately, I do not believe so.Greg

Hi Penolopy,Thank you very much, I’m glad you enjoyed it!Yes, you may specify the length, width and / or height to be any “reasonable” (see the Instructable introduction regarding limitations of the model) value. I use Cura for slicing, so after specifying the container dimensions and saving both the base and lid to a file, I load both pieces into Cura, “Merge” them, then send the merged model to the printer. When the printer is finished, the container is complete, no need to snap them together. Best wishes and thanks again!Greg

Hi doncrush,Sorry for the delayed response, for some reason my Instructable message service is sporadic.Support isn't required, sometimes I'm just too picky...Greg

Hi doncrush,Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed it!Breakaway or PVA is not necessary, I just have this "thing" about printing an object as clean as possible, and, well, it's not a good thing. :)Thanks again,Greg

Hi doncrush,You're prints do look great! Sometimes I get too picky and use PVA or Breakaway for obtain even the slightest increase in quality, and this is one of the times. I printed six of the eight boxes in the cover photograph without support.Thanks again!Greg

Hi ArnieO,Thank you very much!No, this model is not on Thingiverse. If you need to access it there, I can create a thing for it, but the interest for my models on Thingiverse has dropped so low that I may stop publishing there. Your thoughts?Thanks again!Greg

Hi ChiefInstructor,Thank you very much, I’m glad you enjoyed it!Here is a video link that may be of interest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oxxju-93Dio.Many thanks again!Greg

Hi audreyobscura,Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed this model. It was my first foray into a 100% parametric model, and I enjoyed the learning experience.Thanks so much again, and you are very welcome!Greg