handy.andy.buckley

Whilst its slow, when you compare this machine to the £900 Brother Innov-Is F440E this is a great project considering you could probably pick up a second-hand or even broken machine (as you remove the original motor) for next to nothing.

holy moly!!! All that soldering ...

Hi, what type of filament did you use?ThanksAndrew

brilliant

I've recently bought a 64x32 unit (P3-(2121)-64x32-16S-D1.0) from amazon uk and like many displays out there the 2x8 connectors were unmarked. From what I have read, the general consensus is that unmarked 64x32 displays use the HUB75-D layout (see table). I am currently using a Feather M4 express with an RGB matrix FeatherWing and programming in Circuit Python. To power the RGBmatrix FeatherWing I am using a 2.4A supply which seems enough so far. To run the display you need to use 14 of the Feather's pins. One of the things I have found is that if I am running a simple text scrolling program the display will run using just 3.3V from the Feather (I measured the voltage to confirm this).I am slightly confused as to how / why you need to wire some connections from the panel output to the inp…

I've recently bought a 64x32 unit (P3-(2121)-64x32-16S-D1.0) from amazon uk and like many displays out there the 2x8 connectors were unmarked. From what I have read, the general consensus is that unmarked 64x32 displays use the HUB75-D layout (see table). I am currently using a Feather M4 express with an RGB matrix FeatherWing and programming in Circuit Python. To power the RGBmatrix FeatherWing I am using a 2.4A supply which seems enough so far. To run the display you need to use 14 of the Feather's pins. One of the things I have found is that if I am running a simple text scrolling program the display will run using just 3.3V from the Feather (I measured the voltage to confirm this).I am slightly confused as to how / why you need to wire some connections from the panel output to the input when using a D1 mini.

quick update ... I am runiing the feather from a 1A power bank (display at 3.3v) and according to my USB Detector the current use is varying between 0.06A to 0.19A. I think that is pretty good

If I ever make this I think I would solder it one ring at a time and then test to make sure each WS2812b was good rather then solder a whole hemisphere only to find some bad LEDs.I think I'd also wire up the MCU externally using slightly thicker brass wire which I'd form into a stand (with a suitably sized 3d printed box to hold the electronics)

not my photo ... but 10/10 for spotting their error (it is quite a common one).I've got an external antenna but the thought of moving the 0R resistor with a normal soldering iron .... I'll only try it if I really have to!