indoorgeek

Thank you!

I have now added a link to the Gerber files in step 2. Thanks!

Thanks a lot!

Sorry, my bad! It has been attached now. Thanks for pointing it out.

This is amazing! Loved your design and the idea of using ferrite latching plates.

Thank you!

Yes, those are flip-dots. I am not so good at mechanical stuff, so I try to keet it minimal. Might try that sometime. Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks a lot!

Thank you!Actually, spring was the very first thing I thought. But the magnetic force produced by tiny coils is very weak, just enough to lift the segment and magnet. It won't be able to overcome the force of a spring.

I haven't measured the strength. It was more like a trial and error so never bothered about it but now even I'm curious.The trace width I chose is 0.13mm which can carry (acc. to online calc.) a max of 0.55A. Even though the coils draw just 0.15A at 5V, they get quite warm to touch.

Thanks a lot!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Hello! Yes, I am working on something similar. I will be removing the core of the solenoid so that the segment does not come to its original position after the coil is de-energized. Instead, as you said, I will be using an H-bridge to reverse the current. This will surely increase the control circuitry but the total current consumption will be considerably reduced! Thank you!

Thank you! I will be modifying it so that the segments remain in the same position even when the coils are de-energized.

Nice build. Loved the charger design!

Wowww!! Love the idea! How about using hall effect sensors instead of reed switches? But there won't be 'action-reaction' part.

R1 can be of any standard value i.e. available in the market (or with you). Higher the better as less current would flow through the voltage divider.

Thanks a lot! I have not used Simply 3D yet. But the settings that I have mentioned are very basic and can be found in any slicing software. Maybe with a slightly different name.

Oh yes! I never thought about that. Thank you!

Thank you! I wiouuld try that some day.

Thanks a lot!You just have to make the changes mentioned in Step 8. Enter your max. download and upload speed. You can use www.speedtest.net to check the speed. The 'map' function in the code will take care of the rest.While you wait for the converter to arrive, go through steps 3 to 8 to set up SNMP and check results on the serial monitor. I hope you enjoy building it. And make sure you let me know once you are done!

This is very neat! You made a great use of materials you had.

Yes, you can. You need to change R3 if you are using a transformer with different voltage ratings. I have updated Step 4 with the instructions to calculate the value of R3 for your transformer.

A great piece of artwork!

A great piece of artwork!

A great piece of artwork!

A great piece of artwork!

And we already have a winner here! What a clever idea and well documented too.

Congratulations on your great win!

Great! I'm happy that this Instructable was helpful to you!

Wow! Love the idea!

Nice question. I should have mentioned it. The datasheet for WS2812E recommends a 100nF capacitor between VCC and GND for each LED. A capacitor is needed if the power supply you are using is not capable of handling current surges. I did not use the capacitors as I did not face any problem. Still, to be on the safer side, you can connect one sufficiently big capacitor near the supply.

Ah! Happy to see it hear! Great work!