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If you are replacing electrolytic capacitors (as in the example shown), the actual value can vary slightly (200 or 250 uf to replace a 220uf unit), but the voltage must be equal or better to the original. The only problem you will find is that the higher the voltage rating, the larger the capacitor will be.
Good ideas there! Just be careful using a dremel with a cutting wheel- sparks + Air + flammable WD40= bang! After it is empty, to relieve the pressure, you can puncture the can somewhere inconspicuous, like the bottom, with a nail, etc. And don't do it to a spray paint can- I had my workplace broken into once, and all they took was the shelf of spray paint, so they could tag the railway station next-door!
Contact replacement! What a good idea! I have been repairing household electronics for many years, and revived many dodgy remotes. Probably the biggest problem is the batteries, which most of the time get a minute layer of corrosion on one of the contacts. By removing and re-inserting the batteries or spinning them round in the holder gets the gunk off, and they are good for another few months. The rubber contact membrane and the PCB pads can be cleaned with a squirt of contact cleaning spray, and left to dry before assembly. I have not tried the replacement of the contacts, but I will try with the next one that needs it. I reckon a drop of PVA glue or contact cement would attach this well, as they stay flexible after drying.
Good idea! I will attack my daughter's jeans and then give them back to her with holes cut out of the legs, she will be super- trendy then ! You can use toothpaste as a water soluble polishing compound if you need to get rid of fine scratches on acrylic,etc, then buff off with another dry buff. Use the toothpaste which you can feel the gritty bits on your teeth (not the gel type).
Good lesson on what is inside these little beasts. I have used several dozen of these, and have had several go "bang"! After seeing that the triac could not switch the rated current, I know why!
Good instructions. A mechanical bond is good to incorporate into this (I have used this in thousands of soldered connections ) like twisting together. When the wires are being soldered only leave the iron on the joint long enough for the joint to form , or the solder will "wick" up the flexible conductors and you end up with a solid piece of conductor either end of the joint, which will limit it's flexibility.
neat little hiding place! No good around these parts though, we had break-ins at a place I worked at, and all they stole was spray paint so they could tag trains and fences!
Remote fireworks lighter- insert wick into steel wool, strip about 1/2" of some electrical wire, & insert 2 wires into the wool so the wick is between them. Connect the other ends to a 9volt battery. The current will go between the inserted wires, steel wool will start to burn - and away goes your fireworks.
Good idea, and the light inside is handy. If you want the LED to last a little longer, you can add a resistor in series to limit the current. It is basically a short circuit , and the only thing limiting that current at the moment is the capacity of the button cell. 150 ohms for a 3 volt cell will give you about 20mA through the LED.
I think the exploding battery syndrome comes from shorting the positive terminal to the outer case with the iron tip. The negative (case) comes right up and very close to the positive pin, so it is easily done, especially if you have a low-wattage (less than 50w) iron and you are using pressure rather than heat to get the solder to flow. I too have soldered many, using a Scope iron as well (the big one which gets to around 100w in a few seconds, so you do all your work quickly). I touch the terminals to my bench grinder (or Dremel with a stone mounted )so you have a nice clean spot to solder to.
Introduction to Mold Making & Casting
Mold Making & Casting Class
That's a neat little fridge! You could make the door from 2 pieces of clear acrylic with an air gap (double insulated) to help with heat gain through the door. Also, one central hinge may not last too long , 2 smaller hinges or a piece of piano (continous) hinge. Every little bit of insulation helps. Great design & explanation!
A friend bought one of those drill sharpeners (after I told him not to waste his money) and some dead bits around for me to sharpen as he had no clue how to go about it. I could sharpen 10 by eye on my bench grinder in the time it took me to set up and grind / regrind/ regrind 1 on the useless sharpener. This jig you have shown is nifty in the way you can see an off-centre grind.I have used a scribed line at 59 degrees on the work rest of the bench grinder, just fill it with white chalk every now and then.