jwbrooks0

Glad you got it sorted =)The other easy way to think about this orientation is the location of the LED. You can see the leads for it on the back of switch, and the switch can ONLY turn on AND off if the power is on the downstream side.

Huh. Yeah, I don't know. Good observation though.

If you look closely at the backside of the switch, you'll notice the two leads that run up to the LED inside the switch. You want those leads to be on the side that is closest to you load and furthest away from the fuse. My guess is that you have this backwards. You can either rearrange your wires OR you can pop out the switch, rotate it 180 degrees, and drop it back in.

Haha. Yeah. If I had those colors in that gauge wire, I would have used them.

Hmm. Do you have a picture?

Thanks for the feedback!Also, good point. Many of the AC sockets come with a fuse, but I've also bought those without it. What you're looking for is 5x20 mm fuses. I recommend one of the assorted fuse kits from ebay as they are cheap and provide a nice variety. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4712.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC2.A0.H0.X5x20+mm+fuse.TRS0&_nkw=5x20+mm+fuse&_sacat=0

Bad grammar. Edit: What you're looking for "are" 5x20 mm fuses.

To my knowledge, there are no commercial spider-web coils on the market. You don't necessarily have to laser cut this. You can always print the template onto paper, cut it out, tape or glue it to a piece of cardboard, and cut out the cardboard around the template. Then you repeat the rest without ever needing a laser cutter.

A relay clicking on and off. It's perhaps a little nicer in that you can specify a window where it performs differently depending on whether it's heating and cooling.

Actually, I double checked, and the Remix and Epilog categories seemed like reasonable fits. Thanks for your prompt!

Good point on making the grounding wire a little longer than the rest. Thanks.

I tried entering it in the Tools contest (which I know was a longshot), and it was understandably declined. None of the other contests seemed applicable. Do you have one in mind?

Good point. Thanks for pointing this out.

The original clapper design was a 2-clap system, and this appears to be a single clapper design. Is there an advantage of a 1-clap to 2-clap design?

Ah. Thanks for pointing this out. I recommend 12awg if you want the full 10 amps out of your device. Section 3 above shows 12awg, but I've used 16awg in other projects for lower current.

Thanks!

Thanks!

The hinge holding supporting the "T" twice shattered under the weight of my phone. I am using a galaxy note 3, a somewhat larger phone, in addition to a projective case. Perhaps the increased weight was the issue? Is anyone else having this problem?