kwalletje

This would also be true for storebought slime. If you think your kids might try to eat it, don't let them play with it. And this isn't only an age limit. Though storebought slime might say it's intended for kids over 3 years of age, you'd still have to make your own judgement. If your kids at age 6 still puts anything in it's mouth, you may have to wonder if it's wise to let them play with these kind of "toys"...

Fabulous. Looks like a lot of fun (and a lot of work, but hey, what the heck... It's fun... :)How did the receivers respond to this?Would love to repeat this process. Now all I need is some silkscreen and a letterpress installation and learn how to use them... ;)

Well, actually, that is not necesarily so. It actually doesn't matter which order you use, as long as you do the same at the other end. Heck, all strands can be the same color, that just means you'll have to test each and every wire to know which is which...Ofcourse that would make it harder if someone else has to make a repair to that same cable, but if you're the only one that ever touches them? Who cares...By the way, there are plenty tutorials on this subject on the web, so I don't think this one stand out that much...

Nice idea, but like kristen.mckivor we use a large rubber band to hold the bag in place, no need to glue anything.However, for those who do want to glue with contact cement: Just apply it generously to the hook (not too generously but a good layer). Then push it onto the surface where you want to put the hook and pull it off again. Wait two or three minutes. Then push it back on. It will never come off...

@FlorinJThat the causticity of cement would turn oil or grease would cause problems in your project is absolute nonsense. On building locations they use a special demolding fluid which is an oil. This has never caused any of the problems you mention. In private projects diesel is sometimes used when demolding fluid isn't available. Ofcourse one should only apply a very thin layer of the oil.Also, in concrete, soaplike substances are used to decrease the needed water quantity in concretes with a lot of cement. But keep in mind, these substances may be based on soap, they are however NOT SOAP. Never use soap in your concrete as this incorporates air into your mix which in turn decreases it's strength.How do I know all this? I have 10 year experience at a concrete plant. The last 6 years of …

@FlorinJThat the causticity of cement would turn oil or grease would cause problems in your project is absolute nonsense. On building locations they use a special demolding fluid which is an oil. This has never caused any of the problems you mention. In private projects diesel is sometimes used when demolding fluid isn't available. Ofcourse one should only apply a very thin layer of the oil.Also, in concrete, soaplike substances are used to decrease the needed water quantity in concretes with a lot of cement. But keep in mind, these substances may be based on soap, they are however NOT SOAP. Never use soap in your concrete as this incorporates air into your mix which in turn decreases it's strength.How do I know all this? I have 10 year experience at a concrete plant. The last 6 years of my time there, I was a concrete lab technician.

I've seen some good tips on the demolding. There is a professional demolding fluid on the market, but for private use, diesel will probably be the best solution.As for the rebar: Rebar isn't used to increase the strengt of the concrete. It's used to increase stretch resistance of the concrete. therefore it's always positioned on the side of the concrete where it would tend to bend outward.Water dissipation is something you most certainly do not want while your concrete is curing. As the cement needs the water. Without it, your cement will remain to weak. However, to much water will also weaken your structure. Therefore you should also cover your structure to prevent evaporation.You should use no more than about 40% water (water to cement ratio). Also you should know that in the beginning …

I've seen some good tips on the demolding. There is a professional demolding fluid on the market, but for private use, diesel will probably be the best solution.As for the rebar: Rebar isn't used to increase the strengt of the concrete. It's used to increase stretch resistance of the concrete. therefore it's always positioned on the side of the concrete where it would tend to bend outward.Water dissipation is something you most certainly do not want while your concrete is curing. As the cement needs the water. Without it, your cement will remain to weak. However, to much water will also weaken your structure. Therefore you should also cover your structure to prevent evaporation.You should use no more than about 40% water (water to cement ratio). Also you should know that in the beginning some of the water overkill will rise to the surface, as concrete is heavier than water. This is called "bleeding". If you should notice this you'd best get your trowel out and refinish your structure (as long as the concrete is still somewhat moldable).The time you need before you can demold your project depends on how fluid your concrete and how fast your cement is. But I would recommend to wait at least a day for any concrete project before demolding. This is for a "CEM III" cement (contains a high percentage of granulated slag from the metal foundries. If you're using a "CEM I" cement (also known as Portland C cement), you kan probably demold after a couple of hours. This is a very fast (high strength) cement which is often used on structures that require a lot of strength and is mixed in with "CEM III" cement on cold winterdays, usually 25% on mild winterdays up to 50% on very cold days. This is to start the curing of the cement as Portland C produces more heat while curing. This heat aids the cement in curing faster, so you could see it as an accelerator.