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kwilson962

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  • Cosy Slippers From Your Old Woolly Jumper

    The denim soles developed holes after six months, but I still wore them another two months (they were just so comfortable and fit so great). I have now made a second pair with better sole material, and hope get around to "re-soling" the first pair.

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  • Make a Tilt Out Trash Bin

    Any routering was only done to round off edges. All pieces in your picture are attached at 90° angles, and all pieces are cut at 90°. The brace, which is attached to both the door floor and the door front, is the only piece that is not a rectangle (it's a brace, so a triangle shape worked fine).I'm not sure if the label B applies to the groove or the floor of the door piece. In the attached picture I assumed it was the floor, and I labeled the distance of the groove from the rail (R) to the door front (D). The piece A is 3/4", and it sits in the 7/8" groove. This gives 1/8" play to allow the door to rotate. The height of A doesn't really matter as long as there is enough to attach it to C. The dimensions of the rail don't really matter except for the length (15" in my …

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    Any routering was only done to round off edges. All pieces in your picture are attached at 90° angles, and all pieces are cut at 90°. The brace, which is attached to both the door floor and the door front, is the only piece that is not a rectangle (it's a brace, so a triangle shape worked fine).I'm not sure if the label B applies to the groove or the floor of the door piece. In the attached picture I assumed it was the floor, and I labeled the distance of the groove from the rail (R) to the door front (D). The piece A is 3/4", and it sits in the 7/8" groove. This gives 1/8" play to allow the door to rotate. The height of A doesn't really matter as long as there is enough to attach it to C. The dimensions of the rail don't really matter except for the length (15" in my case). I'm not sure if the door originally rested on A or C, but either works.There are stop blocks attached to each side inside of the bin itself. It can be any size, and I attached them with one screw each. The door floor hits them when the door is opened, and this stops the door from rotating any further (no chain needed). Also, if the door doesn't quite fit right, you can put a screw (or two) into the top of C to adjust how the door sits. After 5 or so years I finally attached a back to the bin and ended up having to put in a screw on one end of C.

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  • How to Make 6-Pointed Paper Snowflakes

    It's nice to see something that doesn't need metal- or woodworking tools or a 3D printer.😀

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  • Cosy Slippers From Your Old Woolly Jumper

    After learning what not to do from making practice slippers (from a too-small shirt), I succeeded in my second sewing project ever. The outside is actually material from a never-used denim apron, and the lining was some very soft material from a too-small shirt. I also found out that my feet are not the same size!

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  • Nicely done! I love the low cost. Materials that you used are great. Some of us cannot afford 3D printers which so many projects seem to use. நான் தமிழ் பேசவில்லை, அதனால் உங்கள் ஆங்கிலம் பற்றி புகார் செய்ய முடியாது. I think your English is fine.

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  • BTW, I like your finish and the design of the door. Very nice. These trash bin holders are great for keeping pets out of your trash and for keeping your trash out of sight.

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  • I have one that I built that uses gravity instead of hinges (and also uses the stop blocks). Add one piece of wood to the inside of the skirt on the cabinet (call it Tab A) and one piece to the bottom of the piece with the door (to create Slot B). Then insert Tab A into Slot B. In the first picture the door part is on its side with the bottom showing. The second picture shows the stop block. This setup makes it easier to remove the door part for cleaning (just lift and separate).

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