loskop100.

Great job there but here is a suggestion for you. If you place a length of steel against the bearings and put a coarse file between the roller and the bearings and wind your handle back and forth you will create a knurl on the roller, this should give a better grip on shiny or slippery material such as stainless and aluminium.

Dop wax will hold better than hot glue and is also more rigid if the model centre is not on the centre of balance and can be adusted with a little heat from a heat gun. Removal can be either placing it in the freezer for a few minute, heating it or if the model and attachment it too large then a blast from a CO2 fire extinguisher works well. Well thought out documented job, thanks.

My grand daughter broke the hinge on her laptop so a work around to keep it going was it use a strip of gaffa tape for a hinge and then go into Control Panel>Power Options and change the setting for " What to do when you close the lid" to Do Nothing and then just turn the lappy off with the power button. A bit of a caveman approach but it will keep her going until I find the parts for a proper fix or afford a new laptop.

A battery clock mechanism would be most unlikely to have enough torque to drive the gears and the timing wouldn't allow for the different gearing.

Covering up the holes for the air to circulate could lead to problems.

Very well done and detailed instructible but here is a tip for you when working with acrylic. Use pan head type screws instead of the tapered countersunk ones because the taper acts like a wedge and just a little too tight and it can crack the acrylic. To get the pan heads below the surface you can use a brad point bit or spade bit to create the recess and then drill the hole.

That is cool job there, the only thing that I would change would be the door knob, it gets really hot so I welded on a chevy valve spring as the knob on the heater that I have because the air can circulate through and around it and cool it a bit.

Good idea but I do it a little different because my key ring has lots of keys on it. I get a key cut with no electronics, hide my keys in the car, lock it with the new key and put that in the key safe hidden under the car. If someone finds it they can only get in the car, not drive it away and the new key stays in the safe for when I lock myself out. The key safe can also be a lot smaller.

You chose the best lights for the job, I have made hundreds of these for the film and fashion industry and LEDs are not yet available that have the correct colour temperature, also the CRI is awful. You could have saved yourself a lot of work if after you routered the roundover you changed the router bit and cut a rebate in the other side so that the mirror was flush and also router a groove around frame to accommodate the wires, then the back cover will hold the mirror and cover the wires. Good job though.

Great job, particularly the planning and well set out. Just a tip, if you keep a salt shaker handy putting a little salt on when you do your glue up the pieces are a lot less likely to move around on you when you apply your clamps.

Have a look at this waterproof sensor.http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Waterproof-Ultrasonic-Module-JSN-SR04T-Distance-Transducer-Sensor-for-Arduino-/152234039330?hash=item2371db1822:g:Yu8AAOSwi0RX0RFN

Great job there, much better than mine. Is there any chance that you will post the code and schematic for the stepper router lift? I have a similar set up on my bench but I use Mach3 on my CNC router and plug the table to it but it is such a pain to set up and I have tripped over the cord so many times and torn the wires out that I just don't use it much, an Uno would be a good solution. The auto zero routine is a great idea also.

Good looking build there, mine is similar but nowhere near as refined to look at. I gave up on Win 7 because it steadfastly refused to allow me to install the Mach3 PP driver so I loaded an old copy of XP without service packs and now it runs fine with only 64 meg of ram but it only runs Mach3, nothing else. Have a look in your bios as some of them you can change the output voltage to the PP. As for the cutting speed, I have the same power steppers as upi and the fastest that I can cut is 1600mm per minute (about 60 inchs per minute). The speed limit seems to be set by the $20 drivers. The Gecko series of drivers have compensation for mid band resonance and back EMF among other things and can more than double the speed but are out of my price range unfortunately. The current set up will...

Good looking build there, mine is similar but nowhere near as refined to look at. I gave up on Win 7 because it steadfastly refused to allow me to install the Mach3 PP driver so I loaded an old copy of XP without service packs and now it runs fine with only 64 meg of ram but it only runs Mach3, nothing else. Have a look in your bios as some of them you can change the output voltage to the PP. As for the cutting speed, I have the same power steppers as upi and the fastest that I can cut is 1600mm per minute (about 60 inchs per minute). The speed limit seems to be set by the $20 drivers. The Gecko series of drivers have compensation for mid band resonance and back EMF among other things and can more than double the speed but are out of my price range unfortunately. The current set up will drive a 6 mm end mill at 6 mm DOC in hardwood without ever having stalled so I think that the motors have the power to cut faster. I use CamBam and for someone with absolutely no knowledge of drawing or maching and with all the plugins available I have found it works for all that I have wanted to make. It has some 3D functionality in the CAD side that I am still trying to get my head around but I have produced gcode from STL files that worked. For a novice DIYer and learner the support from the forum was worth the cost of the program on its own. I had the same problems with false estops so I ditched the limit switchs and attached solid stops, I don't use the homing and zero the X Y Z in the centre of the work piece, wherever I put it on the table. Have fun with your new toy.

I don't know if it is the same with a laser but with a router if the engraving is done on the rear face, the etched area is much brighter viewed from the front side.

I don't know about a laser but with a router doing the etching it the light it brighter on the front side.

Oops, I should have mentioned that

No because the 12vdc leds have three leds in series , however, with these addressable leds, it is normal to connect power at different points along the line. I usually connect pos and neg wires at every metre to combat voltage drop.

Good job and well thought out but stainless steel is one of the worst conductors of heat. also hard to cut and drill. A sheet of alluminium would work better, 1mm thick would work fine and much easier to cut and drill.I fold some " wings " on the sides to get more metal exposed to the airflow. It gets hot in my shed in the summer and I haven't had a problem with it , yet.

Apple has locked out any bluetooth connection except for ear phones and some keyboards, but has recently started using BLE (bluetooth low energy). The apps for these are thin on the ground and very expensive. It is much cheaper to just buy cheap Android phone or use an ESP2866 which has wifi instead of bluetooth.

Aha, I only said that it was doable, not that it is easy but there are ways to make it easier. You could increase the width between the segments to stiffen them and if you glue the acrylic pieces to the back of the front board then you that will reinforce the segment cutout panel further. I have tried cutting out those segments on my home made cnc router and the pieces between the segments broke when I was using mdf and even with ply .However, if you make the front\ really only as a facia and the build the rest of the enclosure but you should end up with a the look that you want.See ifn you can get hold of some jig saw blade that are thin, mostly used for cutting veneers and such. As you have probably deduced, I am changing the way that the AUTHOR built his project but only because I ...

Aha, I only said that it was doable, not that it is easy but there are ways to make it easier. You could increase the width between the segments to stiffen them and if you glue the acrylic pieces to the back of the front board then you that will reinforce the segment cutout panel further. I have tried cutting out those segments on my home made cnc router and the pieces between the segments broke when I was using mdf and even with ply .However, if you make the front\ really only as a facia and the build the rest of the enclosure but you should end up with a the look that you want.See ifn you can get hold of some jig saw blade that are thin, mostly used for cutting veneers and such. As you have probably deduced, I am changing the way that the AUTHOR built his project but only because I understand more about cutting stuff out of various materials than I will ever understand about coding and pixie wrangling so perhaps look at the instructable like a student essay, read and correct perhaps, make your changes as if notes in the margin/

I forgot to say that MDF ( or HDF if you can get it ) is better for cutting as it sands easier than play and doesn't leave a furry edge or tear out on cross grain but the MDF needs to be sealed all around with shellac or similar, pay close attention to the edges, to keep it from warping and swelling with time.

Hi glennorp, I find your posts a little puzzling because being a teacher you already know that very little knowledge is known, it is all the result of learning. . Soldering a basic joint takes about 2 minutes to learn ( most people who say that they can't solder have either never tried or never read a "how to " on the subject) A lazer cutter will just do the same job as a jigsaw but a bit faster. For a template you could import a picture of the seven segments into inkscape, export and print them full size that you want and glue them onto the board you choose and cut them out with your jigsaw and clean up the edges with some sandpaper.By the comments that you have made it seems to me that you want to have a go so perhaps, just start with cutting out the seven segment pieces f...

Hi glennorp, I find your posts a little puzzling because being a teacher you already know that very little knowledge is known, it is all the result of learning. . Soldering a basic joint takes about 2 minutes to learn ( most people who say that they can't solder have either never tried or never read a "how to " on the subject) A lazer cutter will just do the same job as a jigsaw but a bit faster. For a template you could import a picture of the seven segments into inkscape, export and print them full size that you want and glue them onto the board you choose and cut them out with your jigsaw and clean up the edges with some sandpaper.By the comments that you have made it seems to me that you want to have a go so perhaps, just start with cutting out the seven segment pieces first before buying the rest of the parts, 6mm (1/4inch) is easy to cut using a metal cutting blade and is easy to sand straight and smooth and is only a couple of dollars and when you are happy with that then consider buying the rest of the parts. I have 2 autistic grandkids and am going to build some of these for them and their school to replace the ones that I made that just have different colours for different events ( I hadn't thought of making an actual clock so thanks AUTHOR ) and I have just ordered all the electronic parts for $A18 delivered from our Asian friends and the perspex I get from a plastics factory from their off cuts bin for a case of Fosters for a boot full: you don't need a full sheet, just enough to cover the holes. Good luck with your project as being a teacher I believe that you already have all the skills required to achieve your goal.

Thanks for posting this great idea and for all the work involved to bring it to us. I am going to have a go but change a few things and include a wifi NRF24L01+ 2.4GHz Wireless RF Transceiver Module and addressable led strips as well as cheaper parts, hopefully your code will still work with MINOR mods as getting my head around coding is causing the rest of my hair to fall out.