Thanks! Not sure if Tic-Tac-Toe constitutes "useful" but that's pretty much where the Minivac tops out. I don't know if you've see this video: but one thought I have is to do something similar but as a "peripheral' device of some sort. There are some pretty cool PDP-11 emulators but I'm not sure replicating the hardware is in my wheelhouse. One device I am looking at right now is the Geniac:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeniacMike
Minivac 601 (Version 1.0) M...View Instructable »
Thanks. Many 3D printers allow you to add a “pause to change filament” command so that even if you only have a single extruder (as I do) you can do multi-color prints.
I looked at hand presses but they didn't have enough "reach" to get to all of the rivets (some of which were 4 inches from an edge). If you are aware of a model that would reach I would certainly consider getting one. While I did say small mallet in actual fact I did use a medium-ish hammer :-)I never though of doorbell transformers. Cool idea. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for posting. Sorry no plans for a kit.
I have 50 patch cables. I’m sure I’ll need more. I haven’t tried the buzzing relays yet but now I’m definitely going to. Thanks for posting!
I’m intrigued. I can’t quite see how a Raspberry Pi would be incorporated. My current plan does call for an Arduino and motor controller, but that’s just for the rotary switch.
Thank you. I appreciate the referral.
Thank you so much for your ind words.
Minivac 601 Replica (Versio...View Instructable »
Solenoid Based Circuit Inte...View Instructable »
Thanks! As with my other projects for sure I’ll be sharing. I don’t want these great machines to be forgotten.
The Minivac 601 was a device for teaching computer concepts sold back in the early 60’s. You “program” it by connecting the various parts of the machine like lights, switches, and relays with wires. There were extensive instruction manuals teaching you about computer circuits and logic. See the Wikipedia article for more details. I’m am creating a replica of the Minivac 601 because they are becoming very hard to find and very expensive when you do (about $600 US on eBay). I want one and I think others might too. My other Instructables were done for the same reason. In short I am trying to help preserve these wonderful devices.
Thank you. Keep an eye open for the Instructable in a couple of months.
Mostly 3D Printed Rotary Sw...View Instructable »
I'm assuming that you are using Slic3r PE with the default settings. Depending on your layer height it might not matter if the infill was 20%. At .2mm layer height and 4 or 5 top and bottom layers it will be almost 100% anyway. Mine works fine without the weight, but as I said others have had to use a weight (see the comments for my Dr. Nim post on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3192730/comments). Also in images of the original Dr. Nim prototypes that I have seen they had weights attached as well. I'll update the instructions in the next couple of days. BTW I love the look of your build. What color filament did you use?
Thanks for sharing. You are not the first person to mention adding a little weight to the trigger. I should maybe update the instructions. The original Dr. Nim does I’m fact sit at almost exactly 30 degrees.
Cool. You don't happen to remember the prof's name do you? Hope the build goes well.
The labels are actually done as an STL file DCII Labels which I missed uploading. It should be there now.
The font name is "Leelawadee UI". I guess it's a system font on my Windows machine as it was available to Fusion 360 when I added the text. I picked it because it was the closest match I could find to the one used on the original. You should know that I cheated a bit and added the serifs to the "II" part of the logo manually.
I too am a proud owner of a Turing Tumble. It an amazing product!
Good idea. I have added the files to the wire bending section of the Instructable.
I got my 3D printer less than a year ago so I’m still pretty new to all of this myself. I was pretty intimidated when I started by the 3D modeling software. Pretty steep learning curve. Then I discovered Tinkercad. I believe it’s a great way to get the most out of your 3D printer at the beginning. Check out my Think-a-Dot Instructable. It was modeled entirely in Tinkercad. I’ve since been learning to use Fusion 360 which I used for this project, but knowing Tinkercad helped me a lot.
Thank you for posting. The original Digi-Comp II was meant to be an educational toy. Back in the 60’s there were no personal computers. For most kids this product and the Digi-Comp I were as close as they could get to the real thing.
Thanks for posting. I very much enjoyed the process of creating this replica.
Digi-Comp II ReplicaView Instructable »
Fixed. Thanks. Truthfully I did not know the difference until you pointed it out. Explains why I kept seeing what I now know to be actual ball bearing in my Amazon search results. Live and Learn.
In all honesty I'm not really sure if enlarging everything by a fixed percentage will work or not.
Wow, I love the colors. I agree that printing in PETG and cleaning out the supports from the flip flops is a real pain. Thanks for posting.
3d views now fixed. I had to re-upload all the files with a unique prefix for each file name (TADN). Instructables is going to have a developer look into the issue.
The Amazing Dr. Nim Scale M...View Instructable »
Think-a-Dot ReplicaView Instructable »