merttoka

Right? Anshul taught me how to make a cool succulent world :)For the planter joints, I left a 0.3 mm gap between each piece in Rhino. This gap was enough, but since I printed the sections vertically (joint side down) I got a little extra material around the contact point with the bed. I had to remove this extra material with a sanding block.For the tray, I left a 0.5mm gap between parts, and this was too much. Those pieces are not exactly attached together now. I would go with a gap of ~.25-.3mm for joineries printed with our printer.

Tim, this is awesome. I loved the support structures around the print. It somehow looks like a tree is dancing with the figurine. Did you scan the resulting print with the same pipeline?

Awesome work Sam! I loved the idea of using a translucent container for plants. Would be nice to see how a root lock would appear through there. After Jennifer's warning, I double checked my model dimensions and found out that it was 10 times bigger than it is supposed to be. After scaling and adjusting the tools, clearing operations with Multiple Depths solved my problem of digging a relatively deeper hole in my box.

Sam, this looks great! Did you somehow use a motion capture system for the animation in Unity?

Ah, that makes sense. I was mostly thinking of a Kinect setup that talks to animation software.

Looks great! Thanks a lot for the experimental tree support structures. Looking forward to testing it out.

Yes, Ender 3 was connected via USB. You can send one line at a time in real-time using the Pronterface console view, and it also displays the response from the printer itself (e.g. "cold extrusion prevented"). I will try to find a better pipeline for this communication tho, I will let you know if I find other ways.

Your eclipse looks great! Do you remember what layer height did you use for the first image in step 3? The filament looks quite thick (or is it just perspective?)

Sam, awesome work! I especially loved the patterns in your mistakes.

When I connect the output of the parametric surface script to the S input of SrfMorph, it throws this error: "1. Data conversion failed from Brep to Surface".

I like how organic this shape looks. I assume it would take a long time to print but could be interesting to see with a bulb inside.

Great idea to use LEDs instead of regular light bulbs! I loved the little spidey with a modular assembly.

Sonia, sorry that I missed your question! Cap Type input determines how to cap the curve ends. I tried 0-3 range, 0 removes the end of offsets, 1 makes a rectangle, 2 and 3 make rounded rectangles with different curvatures. Rounded rectangles were helpful getting rid of some gaps between edges.

Solen these look awesome! I especially loved the version at step 3. Did you render the models in Rhino or in some other program?

@sambourgault is right, your failure looks awesome! Reminded me of Easter eggs :)Last week I tried printing a mask for grocery shopping but it broke half way. I later suspected that the filament was tangled and the extruder couldn't push the material to the nozzle. So I found this guide online (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932), printed and installed at the end of horizontal bar. It seems to be effective for tangled filament. Once you have the material delivered it definitely worth ~2 hours of print time.

I loved how tiny these bowls are! You should post the picture of them in use here as well.

It's great that you actually used the printer! Do you remember how much material your ornament consumed when printed?