mikeasaurus

Nicely done (again), Scott. I can't get enough of free online tools, thanks for sharing the resources. I need to find that Malahat Skywalk next time I'm in town, I'm sure the views are amazing (as is the structure).

Yikes!

I love meaty technical projects like this, and the detailed writeup. Well done, Rick!

This looks like it was loads of fun, and every one of them is personalized. So great. Thanks for sharing!

Great work! Thanks for sharing.The benefit to the spring steel is to allow for a snug fit without the dowel binding. You may find your dowels expand with moisture over time and could get stuck. But, the great part about DIY is you know how to make more :)

Wow! Looks great :)

Great work, Scott! Bucky is my favourite inventor, and was the guy I did my research project on in college. I made something similar for that class; this exact map except it folded up into the prismatic sphere. Does this mean you have a laser in your shop now? :)

I would use a fine sandpaper (220 grit), or fine steel wool, to scuff up the surface prior to dipping. Try it on a test piece before committing to the entire part to be dipped. Good luck!

Try it out and please let us know!

Not alcoholic, but it's extra tasty!

If the link in the intro doesn't work for you, the template is also the last picture in the next step.

Please Zoom call me ASAP. I want to see this in action 📞

Great stuff, Britt! I love teasing info from data. Nicely done harvesting that and exploring the results :)

Thanks for the inspiration! First time trying this. A candy thermometer is the only way to go, and would have never got it right without it and your timing estimates.We had to put the caramel back on the heat after a few minutes in order to do the last few apples.10/10,would try again! 🎃

Hook me up! Let's pin that NERD needle to F.

Printing them with the curve would show a lot of topography on each layer as it steps up. By printing flat the top face is a uniform surface, and keeps that attribute when bent.

This is something I would use outside of Halloween to shoot candy at kids. Though, I would likely need a "real adult" to supervise, not like that baby you have in the last picture... Kids these days!

Good observation! Yes, I used Sugru, as it's what I had on hand. Water based paint allowed me to thin the paint easily to get different effects. Great job making this!

Looking good! An easy upgrade would be to have the flange of the spray cap set inside the bottle cap. That way, the pressure inside the bottle will press the flange against the underside of the cap and make a better seal. However, I didn't have any trouble with strong adhesive (looks like you did the same).Do you have any photos of your results? It would be great to see how it came out!Great take on the project! :)

Looking good! An easy upgrade would be to have the flange of the spray cap set inside the bottle cap. That way, the pressure inside the bottle will press the flange against the underside of the cap and make a better seal. However, I didn't have any trouble with strong adhesive (looks like you did the same).Do you have any photos of your results? It would be great to see how it came out!Great take on the project! :)

Looking good! An easy upgrade would be to have the flange of the spray cap set inside the bottle cap. That way, the pressure inside the bottle will press the flange against the underside of the cap and make a better seal. However, I didn't have any trouble with strong adhesive (looks like you did the same).Do you have any photos of your results? It would be great to see how it came out!Great take on the project! :)

Looks great! What a thoughtful gift. Cheers to you and your friend!

Step 1 has a list of materials I used :)

Test on a small piece of item in an inconspicuous location.

It's shocking how easy it is!

This looks great! The real goal isn't perfection, it's having fun makingBeside, I think projects for kids like this look better a little derpy :)Thanks for sharing!

YES! That sounds like a great use for old miter gauges. Make sure there's no slop in the track!I'd love to see pictures of your finished sled. Good luck!

Step 4: cutting a notch :)

This is a super cute toy, Britt! Your lathe skills are tops. I've had mild success on that machine, but never the patience to make a sphere. Great work.

I bought it from a local hardware store. Though the big box stores are good for some things, a smaller local store usually has specific hardware that might not be available at larger retailers.

Looks great! There's always a need for more space, so I think I like your version better :)Thanks for sharing!

https://oldfashionedstandards.com/Made in Canada ♥🍁

There is definitely design challenges translating from computer to physical model. If successfully printed these skateboard models, but did require some tuning on my printer. What is shown works from my experience, but the real aim here would be to use these steps as a guide and then iterate to what works best for your printer/abilities (which, it sounds like you've done).I see much more value in your last sentence where you students are solving real world problems based on a design inconsistency. Thanks for trying this out!

Hickory or Mesquite. Good luck!

Looking good, Geoff!

I think it looks great! We all improve when we make :) I wouldn't sweat it, makers always see their own mistakes more than anyone else will

You can download the plans in Step 1

That looks great! Such a deep stain, I love it.

Wow! These look great! Are you making them for you, or as a present? I had a hard time giving mine away as presents after I made them :)

My immediate thought is debris in the water. However your paint might also not be shaken up enough and causing blobs to come out while it's being sprayed. Do you have a picture so I may see what you are talking about?

That's a great idea to spook the kids :) Great looking project, too!

Ooh, that's a great addition! Extra gross!

Gross!

Looks great to me! I think a loose plastic wrap just adds to the effect :)

Good tip!

Looking great! Thanks for sharing a picture :)

Cowabunga!Needs more pizza

I uploaded mine in Step 6 :)Happy Halloween!

I uploaded mine in Step 6 :)Happy Halloween!

Step 3 has the link. I would love to see your version when it's complete!

Gross. I love it :D

Looking great! Thanks for sharing pictures of your dip :)

They are sometimes called tension poles. However, be careful to get ones that can be vertical and create a tight fit (not a shower curtain).

The resin creeps under the bottom of the cables. There may be some cable ends that are exposed, but all the materials are inert and inorganic, so there's no requirement to completely surround them with resin.

Try tightening the screw holding the blade to the base, any slop here will cause issue. Next, make sure the metal plate on the base that the blade cuts against is flat, since that's what defines the cut edge on your paper. Good luck on the restoration! I'd love to see the results and any tips you might have to share.

:)

Thank you!

I love the idea of dowels for the pips. I'll have to try that for my next dice!

I love ginger beer :) Glad yours came out great!

Thanks for the feedback. I definitely missed an explanation, which I've now included in the intro and tied back to NGSS.

Borrowing from the definition scientific method "observation, measurement, and experiment, and the formulation, testing, and modification of hypotheses." While not a classic "science" experiment, I'd argue that there is plenty of science behind making design choices and engineering a tool. Also, I can't win contests on Instructables since I work here :)

Pro tip :) I should have consulted an expert!

I think it looks great! To reduce printing time (and give you more layers), I'd reduce the height of each element to 2mm, at least for the body mass. Paint is fine, but different filament might *pop* more. For a class, maybe you could give them a standard base to start with and they add accessories? Kind of like a Mr.Potato Head, where you'd print out the base layer ahead of time. Would simplify the process and speed up printing times while students are in session. Thanks for sharing. I hope to see your next round of iteration :)

Very clever idea, I love it!

I think it would work just as well! And, with different filament colors, you don't have to paint :)If you try it, I'd love to see your results. Good luck

Great stuff, you (Hy)rule!

Excellent! I hope you have an equally amazing shirt to put these on :)

This is a great idea!

Nicely done! Keep practicing and you'll show those grandkids how it's done :)

I probably wouldn't bother, if it were me. I like the way wood looks when it ages, whatever the finish (or lack thereof). :)

This looks great! Thanks for sharing :) I hope it puts a smile on the face of all your guests

Seal with a clear polyurethane is always a good idea. I like a matte or satin finish so it's not too glossy. :)Do you have pictures to share?

The higher the wattage, the more dense the smoke cloud.

I'm not allowed to make flamethrowers any more :/

They are my llama pants :P

I'M COMING OVER!

Plastic is best. Storing sodium hydroxide in glass can cause a reaction and frost the glass. For the length of time the eggs are in there I don't see this as an issue, but the right protocol is to use plastic.

WOW! That looks great!The momentary switch is just a really long lead from the pump concealed in the inside pocket of the jacket, going down my arm to the switch on the controller. Polarity doesn't matter here, since the momentary switch is just breaking the connection. So this momentary switch is just connected to the ON switch, meaning that the unit it turned on, but won't activate unless the momentary is held down. I hope that answers your question.The white plug in the tubing closeup in Step 18 is a plug with a small hole to create a jet of smoke. This is for the tube that comes up through the jacket and points upwards. I found that without the plug the smoke was just lingering by the neckline, with the plug the smoke jets into the jaw of the helmet and gives a nice effect. Experimen…

WOW! That looks great!The momentary switch is just a really long lead from the pump concealed in the inside pocket of the jacket, going down my arm to the switch on the controller. Polarity doesn't matter here, since the momentary switch is just breaking the connection. So this momentary switch is just connected to the ON switch, meaning that the unit it turned on, but won't activate unless the momentary is held down. I hope that answers your question.The white plug in the tubing closeup in Step 18 is a plug with a small hole to create a jet of smoke. This is for the tube that comes up through the jacket and points upwards. I found that without the plug the smoke was just lingering by the neckline, with the plug the smoke jets into the jaw of the helmet and gives a nice effect. Experimentation is good here. Please keep the updates coming, your consume is looking great so far. Really impressed! :)

Possibly, but I think it might be too viscious

I used a brass elbow, barbed on one side and threaded on the other, to step up the size of the vinyl tubing from 1/2" to 5/8". The larger end fit snugly over the e-cig mouthpiece.

Abomination!