mikeasaurus

Those look great! I like the laminated steel in the middle, it really gives it a unique look. Thanks for sharing!

That's the best kind :)Looks great! Are you going to make a set of them? I have a few just like this I used for cooking, they are my go-to utensil.

Mine look similar. What should happen is that the blade should be contacting the edge during action at one point, that point will move from the spring towards you as you pull the handle down. Like scissors the cutting only happens as the blade is closed, so it doesn't need to lie completely flat, only when the two side slide past each other. It's not easy to explain, but should make sense when you watch the slicing action on your cutter.

There's supposed to be a bend in the blade, bowing with the apex of the bow away from the cutter. Lift the blade, when lowering watch where the blade meets the cutting edge - The blade should make contact the entire time it's being lowered. If the side plate is bend then that will need to be straigtened. There's no need to sharpen that edge.

Bernie, this project is nuts!

I think you should be good. Always do a test piece before committing to your final :) Good luck!

Oscar contention for short film.

The test piece looks great! please share pictures when you dip the bike frame. Good luck!

Nice, I love that feeling :)There's plenty more accessible projects like this in the Woodworking class, or on my profile page. Happy you got into the hobby!

Great advice, and you're right about the (very) occasional use. A bottom bearing would make this much more stable. Thanks!

Wash the garment, no conditioner, and completely dry before rewaxing. A polyester jacket shouldn't need a wax coating? I think for a synthetic fabric there are commercial sprays which may be more appropriate.

Thanks for letting me know!

In this instance the strip of cut ends is held down with hot glue, which is then chiseled off after planing. Hot glue works well under lateral pressure with items this size, but for larger/denser/faster speeds a proper hold down system is recommended.

Wow! This looks great, and is that a welded steel frame? Nicely done!Thanks for sharing :)

Casting things is resin is so satisfying, and those bottle cap coasters look great!

All the parts appear to be there (the blade spring is of particular note). I think the largest issue with warping would be along the axis not shown in this picture, as that's where the dovetail dado connects the legs with the top. For reference, here's what mine looked like from the tutorial (https://cdn.instructables.com/FIM/XMAO/IVO4OHNS/FI...)Ensure this connection is straight is what will give your cutter a true base. The legs need to be straight, and also in symetrical to avoid any slant or helical warping. Most cutters are fine if they've had any kind of servicing, or have been stored in a dry place - I say this only to advise what to look out for :)Happy salvaging. For $20 it's worth it to try out your skills and bring life into a classic. Please keep me updated!

The recipien must be very happy :)

My brain hates this. It's perfect!

That's really smart. Thanks for sharing! Enjoy the Pro Membership

Thanks for sharing this idea. I already love going to the beach, but now there's a bonus activity! Enjoy the Pro Membership!

The two trusses are the same size. You can see that on the paper printout template. Maybe you're seeing the legs which are a different size?

Nicely done, Bernie. Glad to see the tutorial after a few months of being teased with images :) I want one of these in my house!

in Step 11 there are 3 disks, the one with the opening is on top, with the two smaller ones below. The tea light sits inside the opening of the top disk and the bottom disk stops the assembly from being inserted too far into the lantern.

Be nice

Thanks! There's now direct links to the Tinkercad file, so you can chose what you like from there/edit to suit your needs. I'd love to see your version if you print it!

V2.0, should definitely have real fire :)

The pantyhose makes it a little difficult, but manageable. With the smoke on, you need to stay still so you don't trip over things :)

You're just saying that because Nicolas Cage was in the movie :) (Thanks, Jessy!)

Following the Tinkercad link you can download the STL of this design, or modify it to create your own!

This looks great! I love the Mako shark, very cool. I bet your car goes 10% faster now :)

I like that idea. Please show me how! :)

YES! I've been experimenting a lot with printing with multiple colors and it looks great. I'd love to see your creation!

Acrylic is a good option. Stacking different colors and then using acrylic cement would be a very cool option!

Gross. I love it!

This Instructable is meant for inspiration and just one approach to making these. I think reading the intro should cover most of your concerns. There are plenty of ways to tackle a design problem, and your banks sound very interesting. I think this design would greatly benefit from more layers to play off the layered depth, like you describe with your projects. I'd love to see some of your creations that use the same technique if you have pictures to share!Happy making :)

That's so handy! :)

Good idea! It's at the end of the introduction, below the 3D model viewer :)Please post your results, I'd love to see them.

That's a really good idea! Sure beats doing the math :)

Great question! There are a few text options in Tinkercad that have the option of upper and lower case lettering. The default text shape works with both, and a few of the specialized text shapes also support lower case. I'd love to see photos when you're ready. Have fun!

This is amazing!No booth this year, but I'll see if I can convince Randy to make an appearance :)

A few coats of polyurethane will protect the surface from handling, yes.

I used a French Cleat to hang this. The cleat is small and is fastened onto a sturdy surface (like a wall, or a solid core door) which the rack is then hung on. I think it would work for you!

That looks amazing. You weave bacon like a pro :)

A unicorn would have made the bone-jarring ride more enjoyable :)

Sorry, eh :)

I haven't tried those materials. Please let us know how it works out for you!You could store it in an airtight metal container, much like what the paint thinner comes in. Though, I think mixing smaller batches and not saving any would be a less messy option.

Love it! Thanks for sharing. Glad it worked out for you :)

Wow! Great pieces, Freddy. Thanks for sharing your creations. I love the story of making in your apartment. I used to build all kinds of projects in my small studio and made a mess everywhere, using the kitchen counter as a workbench since it was long and flat :) good times.Your work is really amazing. Thanks for sharing!

Glad you made it! I like your larger sled, I need to make one that's much larger than the one I made here :)

Cousin Earl and I would get along just fine :)

Incredible!

I would love to know the results!

When I applied it to clothing it leaves a slick texture. It's not unpleasant, but certainly not like the original.

Experiment on a scrap of similar fabric before committing to your backpack. Good luck!

Probably

It was a stormy night, with only the pale cast of the moon guiding my silhouette across the forgotten graveyard. Rain at my back I sunk the rusty shovel into the mud at the foot of an old tombstone. On the gray slab were a duo of letters etched into the tombstone that read "DJ"; worn, but clearly legible. The digging took hours, with much debris that had covered the open grave from years of neglect prolonging the effort - mostly electrical wires, a few Edison boards, and a lone Raspberry Pi with a few arcade buttons still excellently soldered together in a macabre digital daisy chain. Late into the night my shovel finally hit casket. Drenched and exhausted, I opened the casket and summoned strength to read the old scriptures passed down from long ago: "Deus Ex Radio Shacka". In a flash ...

It was a stormy night, with only the pale cast of the moon guiding my silhouette across the forgotten graveyard. Rain at my back I sunk the rusty shovel into the mud at the foot of an old tombstone. On the gray slab were a duo of letters etched into the tombstone that read "DJ"; worn, but clearly legible. The digging took hours, with much debris that had covered the open grave from years of neglect prolonging the effort - mostly electrical wires, a few Edison boards, and a lone Raspberry Pi with a few arcade buttons still excellently soldered together in a macabre digital daisy chain. Late into the night my shovel finally hit casket. Drenched and exhausted, I opened the casket and summoned strength to read the old scriptures passed down from long ago: "Deus Ex Radio Shacka". In a flash I has resurrected the ghost of DJ. A flesh and bone apparition of what was once a pile of dust and SD cards. "Will you help me one last time, friend?", I asked. "I will" he said with a solemn nod.And with that we started workshopping ideas. Plans were hatched, prototypes scuttled, and eventually a project emerged. Before the next full moon the rotating TV was installed and documented. At the stroke of midnight DJ disappeared in a bright spark, like shorting out a car battery on a hastily planned Caraoke setup. "Thanks, buddy", I said to the space where DJ stood. And, that was the end for our brief partnership.It's been a few years since DJ helped me with the Rotating TV, but I've seen him a few times since. The thing is that he's actually really easy to return from the dead, you just need to know how to summon him. Sometimes the incantation isn't enough and you need to bribe him with tacos, but it's always worth it. I think a few months have gone by now and I'm due for some graveyard tacos - brb.TL;DR - I dug up the ghost of DJ for one more adventure!

:) thanks!

The one in this project is a replacement for a powered car seat, but there's all kinds of motors that you can get to work assuming you can find a power adapter for them. Windshield wiper motors and power door lock actuators come to mind. You need something that an handle high torque, not high speed.

I solve that problem by falling asleep the moment my head hits the pillow while watching TV, negating both the pain of bent glasses and the benefit or a rotating TV :/

You're never too late to a gin party :)With Triple Sec sounds delicious! I'll have to give that a go...with your label, of course

See Step 14 & 15

If the ink is into the grain of the wood then you're likely going to have to live with it. Any treatments applied to the surface could have unintended results.If you're really brave you can surface plane the top to remove the wood to a clean level, then remark the grid lines. That seems like a lot of work. I'd say embrace the ink and make it part of the story of your vintage cutter :)

Try a small test piece of your cedar before committing to your project. The stain will fade a little over time, like all stains. It should not effect any bug-repelling properties of cedar, and won't attract any new bugs :)Happy staining!

I use 1:1 ratio casting resin, like this.

I actually have had this done for over 2 months and just never got around to posting it. Sorry I wasn't quicker :)Glad you're going to try it. Please share your results!

That's a smart idea! Please share your results.

Glad you like it :)

With your proposed method you wouldn't have the tops of the cables encased, and you would also need to sand the entire surface to get a clear finish since the saw will leave tool marks.It's an interesting idea. If you give it a go I'd love to see the results!

I got you. Check out Step 6There needs to be room on either side of the work that is going to be planed to allow for chips to go when planing. Missing this step will result in your planing area getting clogged, or spitting chips all over the place (which will happen anyway - this is just makes it much worse). I usually leave about a finger's width on either side.

Added! It's at the bottom of the intro step :)

I don't bother. I've been using these for about 3 months now and they look the same as the day I took them off the printer. Even if there were something growing on/in the razor blades don't touch the PLA. If this ever became an issue, I could reprint them, it only takes about 40 minutes.

Yes, that will work! Check in the comments below, there's someone who did just that :)Good luck!

My project was incredibly dangerous, more a proof of concept (and, I was interested in the results). A commercial unit is a much better idea :)Your results look great! Food science is so neat

Four hundred twenty :)

Finally! I'm not alone in my love of novelty size paperclips :)https://www.instructables.com/id/giant-paperclip-c...

I work in a shared shop space, so it's definitely a bonus of where I work.For this table, I don't think you have to buy the wood to make it effective. Loads of furniture places and shops toss smaller waste wood of all kinds that could be milled to use in a project like this. Even with all the scrap I had at my disposal, I still had to buy the walnut for the corners.

Wood glue is incredibly strong when glued along the grain of the wood. Often, the wood will fail before the glue bond. This table has absolutely no trouble holding my adult male weight. If you make a stool like this you will need adequate depth so the glue has plenty of surface to bond to. I'd love to see your version when it'as finished. Please share photos! :)Happy making!