mikeasaurus

There is definitely design challenges translating from computer to physical model. If successfully printed these skateboard models, but did require some tuning on my printer. What is shown works from my experience, but the real aim here would be to use these steps as a guide and then iterate to what works best for your printer/abilities (which, it sounds like you've done).I see much more value in your last sentence where you students are solving real world problems based on a design inconsistency. Thanks for trying this out!

Hickory or Mesquite. Good luck!

Looking good, Geoff!

I think it looks great! We all improve when we make :) I wouldn't sweat it, makers always see their own mistakes more than anyone else will

You can download the plans in Step 1

That looks great! Such a deep stain, I love it.

Wow! These look great! Are you making them for you, or as a present? I had a hard time giving mine away as presents after I made them :)

My immediate thought is debris in the water. However your paint might also not be shaken up enough and causing blobs to come out while it's being sprayed. Do you have a picture so I may see what you are talking about?

That's a great idea to spook the kids :) Great looking project, too!

Gross!

Good tip!

Looks great to me! I think a loose plastic wrap just adds to the effect :)

Ooh, that's a great addition! Extra gross!

Looking great! Thanks for sharing a picture :)

Cowabunga!Needs more pizza

I uploaded mine in Step 6 :)Happy Halloween!

I uploaded mine in Step 6 :)Happy Halloween!

Step 3 has the link. I would love to see your version when it's complete!

Gross. I love it :D

Looking great! Thanks for sharing pictures of your dip :)

They are sometimes called tension poles. However, be careful to get ones that can be vertical and create a tight fit (not a shower curtain).

The resin creeps under the bottom of the cables. There may be some cable ends that are exposed, but all the materials are inert and inorganic, so there's no requirement to completely surround them with resin.

Try tightening the screw holding the blade to the base, any slop here will cause issue. Next, make sure the metal plate on the base that the blade cuts against is flat, since that's what defines the cut edge on your paper. Good luck on the restoration! I'd love to see the results and any tips you might have to share.

:)

Thank you!

I love the idea of dowels for the pips. I'll have to try that for my next dice!

I love ginger beer :) Glad yours came out great!

Thanks for the feedback. I definitely missed an explanation, which I've now included in the intro and tied back to NGSS.

Borrowing from the definition scientific method "observation, measurement, and experiment, and the formulation, testing, and modification of hypotheses." While not a classic "science" experiment, I'd argue that there is plenty of science behind making design choices and engineering a tool. Also, I can't win contests on Instructables since I work here :)

Pro tip :) I should have consulted an expert!

I think it looks great! To reduce printing time (and give you more layers), I'd reduce the height of each element to 2mm, at least for the body mass. Paint is fine, but different filament might *pop* more. For a class, maybe you could give them a standard base to start with and they add accessories? Kind of like a Mr.Potato Head, where you'd print out the base layer ahead of time. Would simplify the process and speed up printing times while students are in session. Thanks for sharing. I hope to see your next round of iteration :)

Very clever idea, I love it!

I think it would work just as well! And, with different filament colors, you don't have to paint :)If you try it, I'd love to see your results. Good luck

Great stuff, you (Hy)rule!

Excellent! I hope you have an equally amazing shirt to put these on :)

This is a great idea!

Nicely done! Keep practicing and you'll show those grandkids how it's done :)

I probably wouldn't bother, if it were me. I like the way wood looks when it ages, whatever the finish (or lack thereof). :)

This looks great! Thanks for sharing :) I hope it puts a smile on the face of all your guests

Seal with a clear polyurethane is always a good idea. I like a matte or satin finish so it's not too glossy. :)Do you have pictures to share?

The higher the wattage, the more dense the smoke cloud.

I'm not allowed to make flamethrowers any more :/

They are my llama pants :P

I'M COMING OVER!

Plastic is best. Storing sodium hydroxide in glass can cause a reaction and frost the glass. For the length of time the eggs are in there I don't see this as an issue, but the right protocol is to use plastic.

WOW! That looks great!The momentary switch is just a really long lead from the pump concealed in the inside pocket of the jacket, going down my arm to the switch on the controller. Polarity doesn't matter here, since the momentary switch is just breaking the connection. So this momentary switch is just connected to the ON switch, meaning that the unit it turned on, but won't activate unless the momentary is held down. I hope that answers your question.The white plug in the tubing closeup in Step 18 is a plug with a small hole to create a jet of smoke. This is for the tube that comes up through the jacket and points upwards. I found that without the plug the smoke was just lingering by the neckline, with the plug the smoke jets into the jaw of the helmet and gives a nice effect. Experim...

WOW! That looks great!The momentary switch is just a really long lead from the pump concealed in the inside pocket of the jacket, going down my arm to the switch on the controller. Polarity doesn't matter here, since the momentary switch is just breaking the connection. So this momentary switch is just connected to the ON switch, meaning that the unit it turned on, but won't activate unless the momentary is held down. I hope that answers your question.The white plug in the tubing closeup in Step 18 is a plug with a small hole to create a jet of smoke. This is for the tube that comes up through the jacket and points upwards. I found that without the plug the smoke was just lingering by the neckline, with the plug the smoke jets into the jaw of the helmet and gives a nice effect. Experimentation is good here. Please keep the updates coming, your consume is looking great so far. Really impressed! :)

Possibly, but I think it might be too viscious

I used a brass elbow, barbed on one side and threaded on the other, to step up the size of the vinyl tubing from 1/2" to 5/8". The larger end fit snugly over the e-cig mouthpiece.

Abomination!

You can skim off the paint, then water your plants with the waste water.

Looking great, thanks for sharing!

Whoa! That's seriously awesome. Glad I inspired you, your version is incredible!

Nicely done :) I think I like your version more!

The cosmos has many secrets, i think this is one of them

Thrift stores are my go-to for inexpensive things. However, I always keep an eye out for discarded furniture left by the road. Most times you can refinish wood into something great. Good luck!

Wow! That looks great, thanks for sharing

Have you tried printing them upright? You might be able to get away with support material only at the bottom where it flares out.

These might be counterfeit. I think real rupees come from broken pots or freshly cut bushes.

I should have remapped my A key to "eh".

Glad you like it!The hole in the divider leg is not supposed to be there, but doesn't affect the performance. For strength, it's better if it's not there. The most critical tweak was attaching the rivets - getting the tension right was tricky! :)

Nicely done!Since you already used cooked meat, there's no need for a thermometer. Having the meat pre-cooked before smoking is probably why "it was not that juicy". But, it's a start! Experimenting is how we learn and improve, and I am constantly trying out new things to see how I can make it better. Thanks for sharing! I hope your next smoke is a great success! :)

Those look great! I like the laminated steel in the middle, it really gives it a unique look. Thanks for sharing!

That's the best kind :)Looks great! Are you going to make a set of them? I have a few just like this I used for cooking, they are my go-to utensil.

Mine look similar. What should happen is that the blade should be contacting the edge during action at one point, that point will move from the spring towards you as you pull the handle down. Like scissors the cutting only happens as the blade is closed, so it doesn't need to lie completely flat, only when the two side slide past each other. It's not easy to explain, but should make sense when you watch the slicing action on your cutter.

There's supposed to be a bend in the blade, bowing with the apex of the bow away from the cutter. Lift the blade, when lowering watch where the blade meets the cutting edge - The blade should make contact the entire time it's being lowered. If the side plate is bend then that will need to be straigtened. There's no need to sharpen that edge.

Bernie, this project is nuts!

I think you should be good. Always do a test piece before committing to your final :) Good luck!

Oscar contention for short film.

The test piece looks great! please share pictures when you dip the bike frame. Good luck!

Nice, I love that feeling :)There's plenty more accessible projects like this in the Woodworking class, or on my profile page. Happy you got into the hobby!

Great advice, and you're right about the (very) occasional use. A bottom bearing would make this much more stable. Thanks!

Wash the garment, no conditioner, and completely dry before rewaxing. A polyester jacket shouldn't need a wax coating? I think for a synthetic fabric there are commercial sprays which may be more appropriate.

Thanks for letting me know!

In this instance the strip of cut ends is held down with hot glue, which is then chiseled off after planing. Hot glue works well under lateral pressure with items this size, but for larger/denser/faster speeds a proper hold down system is recommended.

Wow! This looks great, and is that a welded steel frame? Nicely done!Thanks for sharing :)

Casting things is resin is so satisfying, and those bottle cap coasters look great!

All the parts appear to be there (the blade spring is of particular note). I think the largest issue with warping would be along the axis not shown in this picture, as that's where the dovetail dado connects the legs with the top. For reference, here's what mine looked like from the tutorial (https://cdn.instructables.com/FIM/XMAO/IVO4OHNS/FI...)Ensure this connection is straight is what will give your cutter a true base. The legs need to be straight, and also in symetrical to avoid any slant or helical warping. Most cutters are fine if they've had any kind of servicing, or have been stored in a dry place - I say this only to advise what to look out for :)Happy salvaging. For $20 it's worth it to try out your skills and bring life into a classic. Please keep me updated!

The recipien must be very happy :)

My brain hates this. It's perfect!

That's really smart. Thanks for sharing! Enjoy the Pro Membership

Thanks for sharing this idea. I already love going to the beach, but now there's a bonus activity! Enjoy the Pro Membership!

The two trusses are the same size. You can see that on the paper printout template. Maybe you're seeing the legs which are a different size?

Nicely done, Bernie. Glad to see the tutorial after a few months of being teased with images :) I want one of these in my house!

in Step 11 there are 3 disks, the one with the opening is on top, with the two smaller ones below. The tea light sits inside the opening of the top disk and the bottom disk stops the assembly from being inserted too far into the lantern.