mikeasaurus

Following the Tinkercad link you can download the STL of this design, or modify it to create your own!

This looks great! I love the Mako shark, very cool. I bet your car goes 10% faster now :)

I like that idea. Please show me how! :)

YES! I've been experimenting a lot with printing with multiple colors and it looks great. I'd love to see your creation!

Acrylic is a good option. Stacking different colors and then using acrylic cement would be a very cool option!

Gross. I love it!

This Instructable is meant for inspiration and just one approach to making these. I think reading the intro should cover most of your concerns. There are plenty of ways to tackle a design problem, and your banks sound very interesting. I think this design would greatly benefit from more layers to play off the layered depth, like you describe with your projects. I'd love to see some of your creations that use the same technique if you have pictures to share!Happy making :)

That's so handy! :)

Good idea! It's at the end of the introduction, below the 3D model viewer :)Please post your results, I'd love to see them.

That's a really good idea! Sure beats doing the math :)

Great question! There are a few text options in Tinkercad that have the option of upper and lower case lettering. The default text shape works with both, and a few of the specialized text shapes also support lower case. I'd love to see photos when you're ready. Have fun!

This is amazing!No booth this year, but I'll see if I can convince Randy to make an appearance :)

A few coats of polyurethane will protect the surface from handling, yes.

I used a French Cleat to hang this. The cleat is small and is fastened onto a sturdy surface (like a wall, or a solid core door) which the rack is then hung on. I think it would work for you!

That looks amazing. You weave bacon like a pro :)

A unicorn would have made the bone-jarring ride more enjoyable :)

Sorry, eh :)

I haven't tried those materials. Please let us know how it works out for you!You could store it in an airtight metal container, much like what the paint thinner comes in. Though, I think mixing smaller batches and not saving any would be a less messy option.

Love it! Thanks for sharing. Glad it worked out for you :)

Wow! Great pieces, Freddy. Thanks for sharing your creations. I love the story of making in your apartment. I used to build all kinds of projects in my small studio and made a mess everywhere, using the kitchen counter as a workbench since it was long and flat :) good times.Your work is really amazing. Thanks for sharing!

Glad you made it! I like your larger sled, I need to make one that's much larger than the one I made here :)

Cousin Earl and I would get along just fine :)

Incredible!

I would love to know the results!

When I applied it to clothing it leaves a slick texture. It's not unpleasant, but certainly not like the original.

Experiment on a scrap of similar fabric before committing to your backpack. Good luck!

Probably

It was a stormy night, with only the pale cast of the moon guiding my silhouette across the forgotten graveyard. Rain at my back I sunk the rusty shovel into the mud at the foot of an old tombstone. On the gray slab were a duo of letters etched into the tombstone that read "DJ"; worn, but clearly legible. The digging took hours, with much debris that had covered the open grave from years of neglect prolonging the effort - mostly electrical wires, a few Edison boards, and a lone Raspberry Pi with a few arcade buttons still excellently soldered together in a macabre digital daisy chain. Late into the night my shovel finally hit casket. Drenched and exhausted, I opened the casket and summoned strength to read the old scriptures passed down from long ago: "Deus Ex Radio Shacka". In a flash ...

It was a stormy night, with only the pale cast of the moon guiding my silhouette across the forgotten graveyard. Rain at my back I sunk the rusty shovel into the mud at the foot of an old tombstone. On the gray slab were a duo of letters etched into the tombstone that read "DJ"; worn, but clearly legible. The digging took hours, with much debris that had covered the open grave from years of neglect prolonging the effort - mostly electrical wires, a few Edison boards, and a lone Raspberry Pi with a few arcade buttons still excellently soldered together in a macabre digital daisy chain. Late into the night my shovel finally hit casket. Drenched and exhausted, I opened the casket and summoned strength to read the old scriptures passed down from long ago: "Deus Ex Radio Shacka". In a flash I has resurrected the ghost of DJ. A flesh and bone apparition of what was once a pile of dust and SD cards. "Will you help me one last time, friend?", I asked. "I will" he said with a solemn nod.And with that we started workshopping ideas. Plans were hatched, prototypes scuttled, and eventually a project emerged. Before the next full moon the rotating TV was installed and documented. At the stroke of midnight DJ disappeared in a bright spark, like shorting out a car battery on a hastily planned Caraoke setup. "Thanks, buddy", I said to the space where DJ stood. And, that was the end for our brief partnership.It's been a few years since DJ helped me with the Rotating TV, but I've seen him a few times since. The thing is that he's actually really easy to return from the dead, you just need to know how to summon him. Sometimes the incantation isn't enough and you need to bribe him with tacos, but it's always worth it. I think a few months have gone by now and I'm due for some graveyard tacos - brb.TL;DR - I dug up the ghost of DJ for one more adventure!

:) thanks!

The one in this project is a replacement for a powered car seat, but there's all kinds of motors that you can get to work assuming you can find a power adapter for them. Windshield wiper motors and power door lock actuators come to mind. You need something that an handle high torque, not high speed.

I solve that problem by falling asleep the moment my head hits the pillow while watching TV, negating both the pain of bent glasses and the benefit or a rotating TV :/

You're never too late to a gin party :)With Triple Sec sounds delicious! I'll have to give that a go...with your label, of course

See Step 14 & 15

If the ink is into the grain of the wood then you're likely going to have to live with it. Any treatments applied to the surface could have unintended results.If you're really brave you can surface plane the top to remove the wood to a clean level, then remark the grid lines. That seems like a lot of work. I'd say embrace the ink and make it part of the story of your vintage cutter :)

Try a small test piece of your cedar before committing to your project. The stain will fade a little over time, like all stains. It should not effect any bug-repelling properties of cedar, and won't attract any new bugs :)Happy staining!

I use 1:1 ratio casting resin, like this.

I actually have had this done for over 2 months and just never got around to posting it. Sorry I wasn't quicker :)Glad you're going to try it. Please share your results!

That's a smart idea! Please share your results.

Glad you like it :)

With your proposed method you wouldn't have the tops of the cables encased, and you would also need to sand the entire surface to get a clear finish since the saw will leave tool marks.It's an interesting idea. If you give it a go I'd love to see the results!

I got you. Check out Step 6There needs to be room on either side of the work that is going to be planed to allow for chips to go when planing. Missing this step will result in your planing area getting clogged, or spitting chips all over the place (which will happen anyway - this is just makes it much worse). I usually leave about a finger's width on either side.

Added! It's at the bottom of the intro step :)

I don't bother. I've been using these for about 3 months now and they look the same as the day I took them off the printer. Even if there were something growing on/in the razor blades don't touch the PLA. If this ever became an issue, I could reprint them, it only takes about 40 minutes.

Yes, that will work! Check in the comments below, there's someone who did just that :)Good luck!

My project was incredibly dangerous, more a proof of concept (and, I was interested in the results). A commercial unit is a much better idea :)Your results look great! Food science is so neat

Four hundred twenty :)

Finally! I'm not alone in my love of novelty size paperclips :)https://www.instructables.com/id/giant-paperclip-c...

I work in a shared shop space, so it's definitely a bonus of where I work.For this table, I don't think you have to buy the wood to make it effective. Loads of furniture places and shops toss smaller waste wood of all kinds that could be milled to use in a project like this. Even with all the scrap I had at my disposal, I still had to buy the walnut for the corners.

Wood glue is incredibly strong when glued along the grain of the wood. Often, the wood will fail before the glue bond. This table has absolutely no trouble holding my adult male weight. If you make a stool like this you will need adequate depth so the glue has plenty of surface to bond to. I'd love to see your version when it'as finished. Please share photos! :)Happy making!

Mysterious and majestic :)Thanks for sharing, enjoy the Pro Membership!

Love those dark color swirls. Great work!Thanks fro sharing pictures of your hydro dip. Enjoy the Pro Membership!

I love the idea of the code being broken up like that, very clever!Thanks for sharing a picture, enjoy the Pro Membership!

To access my router you'd have to be within range of my WiFi and have access to the QR code, which means you need to know where I live and have been a guest inside to scan the code. This barrier means that I'd have to know you (and trust you) before you'd have access. Once connected, I suppose you could snoop to see traffic on the router. It's about as secure as using any public WiFi portal (Starbucks, McDonald's, the library). I guess it depends on your level of security. Great question! :)

Great question! It's square acrylic cut on the table saw, using the same methods as cutting the wood frame.

I don't think a table saw is out of reach for DIY. All of this can be done either with a handheld circular saw, or by hand. The takeaway here isn't the methods to create the piece, but to inspire you to create your own variation. Check your area for a makerspace/hackerspace, or community lab/garage. There's plenty of options out there for makers without the space or means to access bigger tools. Good luck!

Unfortunately, yes. Maybe you could cycle your passwords and just put them in storage for a while?Luckily, for my home network, I don't update my password (for better, or worse) :)

Looks great! The pip stencil is a genius idea, thanks for sharing it. Loving that picture, enjoy the Pro Membership!

Without preserving the meat, it will have a refrigerated shelf-life of only a few days. Smoking cooks the meat, and can be kept refrigerated for about a week. I wrote all about smoking meat here: https://www.instructables.com/lesson/Smoking-Meats/

The download is listed as an .STL file extension. You should be able to just click on the link, or right-click to "save as". Do you have a browser setting that prevents downloading?

This is correct. I deliberately left these codes readable to see who would scan them (you win!). Since it's for my home WiFi I want these codes to be used. :)

Looking great! I'll be doing my own tests with a laser soon, I'm glad you shared your results!Thanks for sharing a picture of your QR Coaster, enjoy the Pro Membership!

Fixed! :)

"Default units in Tinkercad is millimeters - perfect for precision" The resolution is defined by the printer settings. But, we agree that the metric system is the best!

You'll want to make the sled as robust as possible. I had a short span, so I wasn't worried about deflection. I'd love to see your if you make it!

I think using resin with this method won't produce the results you want. Not only will it make a huge mess (it'll seem messier than just sawdust), but there's also a risk of burning the resin from friction. Also, you'll need to finish each one by sanding it back to clear again. If you do you resin, that should be the final step.

This took me an hour total to design and print. I could probably achieve something similar using your suggestion. Since I'm already handy in the shop fabricating things with my hands, the goal here was get deeper into digital design and new ways to make things (3D printing).Posting here is really just a way to see what you guys can come up with that's better than my design, whether that fabricated digitally or with traditional methods. If you made one usisg the method you described I'd love to see it!

Great work! Smart thinking adding an opening to remove the ties when you're ready. I love itThanks for sharing, enjoy the Pro Membership!

Looking great! If you continue this class there are a few more projects you can try, the final one for the class is the log table (https://www.instructables.com/id/Capstone-Project-Log-Table/), it will be a challenge. Good luck, and thanks for sharing your great work here!

Pro tip, thanks!

Thanks! I'd love to see your version if you snap a picture :)

The smell dissipates in less than 24 hours

Good point, and you're definitely not a hater. However, this is a professional apron and the ties are not long enough to tie in the front, probably because I work in a shop and ties in the front introduce an ensnarement hazard. I think there's still merit for cooking aprons that do tie in the front, as a magnetic clip is easy to pull off with messy hands.Many solutions to a not-so-serious problem :)

There's some great alternative suggestions to 3D printing in the comments here :)

That's an even better idea than mine! Someone should make it just like this.