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mistrije

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30CommentsConstanţa, Romania
toying around! :)
  • mistrije commented on mxx's instructable Sturdy Circuit Board Holder
    Sturdy Circuit Board Holder

    ... 200 likes, 24... ummm... 25 comments, and no one already made it???guess is my time to broken da' ice, mon! :D(seriously, i really need one, and i already purchased what parts i hadn't have already. now, i need to find some free time to craft... ummm... THE THING! :D)

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  • How to Drill Straight Holes Without a Drill Press

    " Anyone know why, or have a better method for doing this?"almost everyone use soap, and everytime a small shell of soap will be thrown away, as "a waste"!collect and use that shell, not on the teeth, but on the wide part of the blade, before starting the cut, or after a little while, when the blade is a bit warm.it's not important what soap is, but it's important he will lubricate the blade, and the blade will slip without, or very small friction on his wide parts.don't try to "lubricate" the teeth part, or the active part of a file!why? try yourself and see the result! :))))))))))))))))))))))))))))this is a very old bad joke of a foreman to his disciple(s)!

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  • Arduino Multimeter and Components Tester

    ... i'm feeling like just joined a very exclusive club!!! :))))guys, the errors can be tailored with basic Arduino knowledge, installing correct libraries (keep in mind, this is a 2017 project, using this time libraries only!) and paying attention on what screen size is defined (directly or by graphical stuff coordinates) in the provided sketch!i think i will add some more stuff i need, and delete other unuseful, so, i will have another multimeter on my bench! :Dah, and the famous two resistors, 100k and 10k, seen in the code, but not in the schematic provided, they are attached to A7 pin! :D

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  • DIY Function Generator (ICL8038) 0 Hz - 400Khz

    ... sometimes, the simplest approach is the best one... why don't use an output stage like in this schematic: http://www.constructor.bg/mk/testgen.htm ? (use google translate, but electronical schematic is an international language! :D)on the other hand, looks like you used there a frequency counter to know what signal is at output... it's the chinese version (that one with "crystal checker") of https://www.qsl.net/dl4yhf/freq_counter/freq_counter.html ? :D

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    W. O. W. ! :Di'm in my late 40's, and my eyes are already a bit... let's say... dimmed, so, i want a big digit clock, but this idea... there are plenty of projects of Arduino clocks with led digits and led strips, smart or dumb, but NOT hidden in a shelf visible edges!...i don't own a 3D printer, but i have some ideas of filament prices and hours of work, so... this can be an expensive decor!but the "WOW factor" is truly priceless! (for those who want to go cheap: a solution is buying an already made wood shelf and gluing carefully the strips on the edge. wires will be a bit difficult to hide, but with a bit of imagination, it can be done, electronics can be hidden in a wood decor, too... in a... let's say... a scaled wooden log cabin! or a boat... a lighthouse... a Millenium Fa…

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    W. O. W. ! :Di'm in my late 40's, and my eyes are already a bit... let's say... dimmed, so, i want a big digit clock, but this idea... there are plenty of projects of Arduino clocks with led digits and led strips, smart or dumb, but NOT hidden in a shelf visible edges!...i don't own a 3D printer, but i have some ideas of filament prices and hours of work, so... this can be an expensive decor!but the "WOW factor" is truly priceless! (for those who want to go cheap: a solution is buying an already made wood shelf and gluing carefully the strips on the edge. wires will be a bit difficult to hide, but with a bit of imagination, it can be done, electronics can be hidden in a wood decor, too... in a... let's say... a scaled wooden log cabin! or a boat... a lighthouse... a Millenium Falcon model... a fake book... anything you think is fit for a illuminated shelf! :D)

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      • DIY - USB OSCILLOSCOPE IN a MATCHBOX
      • Universal Analog Hardware Testbench
      • Simple DIY Electronic Enclosure
  • ... looks like the link is not valid... but after a short googling, any interested soul can find that page at http://n5ese.com/gizmo.htm

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  • mistrije followed Electronics, LEDs, Linux, USB and 7 others channel
      • Costie
      • Smart IC Tester
      • Dot² - an Interactive Coffee Table
  • Millennium Falcon Dashboard (Full Scale Garage Build)

    ... my bet is an Arduino, Uno or Nano, driving a MAX7219, who can command 64 leds (an 8x8 matrix), because you do not need different colors.the other pins on Arduino can command another things... and my bet is you will not need another Arduino! :Dthe library for 7219 is around here for a while, you can find already made projects, easily modifiable for your needs!... :)

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  • Pip Boy From Everything

    ... what about adding some life to your PipBoy?no idea about your competence in electronics, but i will presume being very basic, so:- not sure, but looks like somewhere close of knobs are two leds. you can make them to randomly lit, for the start. you can use some small batteries, like 2032, but you can try using a small Li-Ion accumulator, with his charging and protection board.- looks like electronic watches are easy to get, and inexpensive, so, take some, and try to tinker around him, to be able to use the buttons and knobs to control the watch... without killing it! :P - after you get some experience in electronics AND soldering, take a look on Arduino projects. some of them will show some use for a real LCD. take your time to learn, but finally, your PipBoy will be really alive! :Do…

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    ... what about adding some life to your PipBoy?no idea about your competence in electronics, but i will presume being very basic, so:- not sure, but looks like somewhere close of knobs are two leds. you can make them to randomly lit, for the start. you can use some small batteries, like 2032, but you can try using a small Li-Ion accumulator, with his charging and protection board.- looks like electronic watches are easy to get, and inexpensive, so, take some, and try to tinker around him, to be able to use the buttons and knobs to control the watch... without killing it! :P - after you get some experience in electronics AND soldering, take a look on Arduino projects. some of them will show some use for a real LCD. take your time to learn, but finally, your PipBoy will be really alive! :Doh, and DO NOT dismantle this thing for your more evolved versions, just use another parts!is looking cool, really, and you will have a hard comparison between these first tries and your final PipBoy! :Dgood luck! :D

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  • Oscilloscope in a Matchbox - Arduino

    ... maybe is time to switch to CH340/CH341 modules and leave FTDI to die peacefully.as a side not, if you use a chinese-made Nano, you already use a CH340, and already get drivers installed. :D

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  • sorry for delay, but looks like i'm not get notifications... :)the link: https://www.mikrocontroller.net/svnbrowser/transistortester/

    first thing after you finished this build is calibrating the tester.the procedure is described in manual: https://github.com/svn2github/transistortester/tre...so, looks like you don't calibrated the tool for caps...and as a side note, try to measure more than one electrolytic, because is a well-known issue about measuring these!and about your message: i'm sorry, but i became aware of this today! :(and, for some mysterious reasons, i wasn't able to read my own inbox until i relogged on instructables...anyway, i'm not familiar with pinouts of all modules, what i have is a bare rotary encoder, so, for my variant this part is different than of those who use arduino modules...

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      • Gooseneck Light and Magnifier
      • Wireless L E D
      • 9V Battery Case for Projects
  • if you constantly press any button of remote, you will get a line of "FFFFFFF"'s, and no codes.press shortly, and you will get the code, unless your remote is defective!or is an very old remote, ultrasonic type, not an infrared one! :D

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  • ... oooook!i'm (very) sure someone here is tempted to made this power supply, but BRY39 is an old and obsolete part... maybe you can find some NOS on ebay... at "nice" prices (i already checked! :))but this part can be replaced with two ordinary BJT transistors, as in image.if someone already has a similar transformer in his/her junkbox, and a suitable meter, it's ok. :)

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  • github link: https://github.com/martymcguire/inkscape-unicornsimply, some unwanted characters added at link...link for inkscape: https://inkscape.org/and the link for extensions: https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/but looks like in version 0.92 gcodetools are already included in Inkscape, so... :)

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  • mistrije followed arduino, pizza, dessert, usb and 51 others channel
  • i was meant an oled screen as in this image.same controller, but i think is clearly unusable if you want an oscilloscope... maybe if you have very good eyes! :Pbut is a nice fit for any project using a classical 2x16 LCD... :)oh, in some days i will join to "i made it" club.is interesting, anyway, and... multimeters, soldering irons and stabilized power supplies aren't "too few"! :P

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  • yeah, i already get an DSO138: he's not a "true" scope, but close enough... you can consider this as a very cheap "scopemeter", with some nice features. ah, and some other guys think the software can be improved a bit, so... DLO138 was born! :)but this "matchscope" can be nice to have on the way: pretty small, cheap and enough features...and about 3.3V: not sure about "genuine" Nano, but chinese clones get this 3.3V from CH34x, used as a USB/serial converter, so, this current cannot be very high (i learned this in hard way: some OLEDS can need an high amount of current!).i heard about some clones using a cascade of two ams1117, a 5V one, and a 3.3V one.if someone is having problems with reference, maybe is need to use an ams1117-3.3 for this portion…

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    yeah, i already get an DSO138: he's not a "true" scope, but close enough... you can consider this as a very cheap "scopemeter", with some nice features. ah, and some other guys think the software can be improved a bit, so... DLO138 was born! :)but this "matchscope" can be nice to have on the way: pretty small, cheap and enough features...and about 3.3V: not sure about "genuine" Nano, but chinese clones get this 3.3V from CH34x, used as a USB/serial converter, so, this current cannot be very high (i learned this in hard way: some OLEDS can need an high amount of current!).i heard about some clones using a cascade of two ams1117, a 5V one, and a 3.3V one.if someone is having problems with reference, maybe is need to use an ams1117-3.3 for this portion...on top of that, this thing can make useful a Pro Mini. as a side note: some (long) years ago, i stumbled upon "superprobe" (from http://mondo-technology.com/), a pic-based thingie able to measure and generate some signals.i think i can get an "arduino superprobe" taking your software and modifying for a "horizontal" version of SH1106, and trying to keep "probe" look and feel.unfortunately, this means i cannot keep the scope part... but i can made it same as MasterLaptopP made his version, with a "normal" version of OLED!... :)

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  • "Is it worth it? The number of features is getting ridiculous. OK, why not?"maybe an external adc will make the scope a little bit faster. maybe tlc5510 will be a fit, but this means locking 8 Arduino pins for scope!...ads1015 is an iic adc, so... but i missed his data rate! BUT... we can add an digital pot to ad9833' out, to have a digitally/controlled signal level? :Pjust for the sake of features! :angelface:

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  • 1 day update.that solution works in this very moments, but after a day, nothing!PulseView find the device, but wasn't able to open and control... so... again, look at drivers! :)as i already said, for whatever reason, even if you download a 64bit build, you will get a 32bit build of Sigrok/PulseView, so, if you install WinUSB drivers, the device will be seen, but unusable.so, open Zadig again, search for "libusb-win32" in the right tab, and install! :)i tried the max possible rate... 12 microseconds of data! :))))))))))))))))))))

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  • i got today my FX2 board from aliexpress.i used the same (i think, we're in 2019, the 'ible was written in 2016) driver from Cypress website, downloaded the last version available of Sigrok/Pulseview for windows 7_64 (but this was a 32bit build, so... hmmmm!), and used Zadig, as is advised here.but BAM, after Zadig was "succesfully updated" the driver, Pulseview was given that error message, even before he was able to see and use the board.after a reboot (we're under Windows, remember? :P), and uninstalling driver installed by Zadig with Zadig (yes, he can do this finely) and reinstalling Cypress driver (with Zadig, too! not manually), all was fine, again! :)so... either driver was updated, or Sigrok/PulseView code was updated, and now Sigrok is working fine with Cypress driver.…

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    i got today my FX2 board from aliexpress.i used the same (i think, we're in 2019, the 'ible was written in 2016) driver from Cypress website, downloaded the last version available of Sigrok/Pulseview for windows 7_64 (but this was a 32bit build, so... hmmmm!), and used Zadig, as is advised here.but BAM, after Zadig was "succesfully updated" the driver, Pulseview was given that error message, even before he was able to see and use the board.after a reboot (we're under Windows, remember? :P), and uninstalling driver installed by Zadig with Zadig (yes, he can do this finely) and reinstalling Cypress driver (with Zadig, too! not manually), all was fine, again! :)so... either driver was updated, or Sigrok/PulseView code was updated, and now Sigrok is working fine with Cypress driver... :)the relevant details of my installed version of Sigrok/|PulseView:Versions, libraries and features:PulseView 0.4.1Qt 5.7.1glibmm 2.42.0Boost 1_60libsigrok 0.5.1/5:0:1 (rt: 0.5.1/5:0:1)- glib 2.44.1 (rt: 2.44.1/4401:1)- libzip 1.5.1- libserialport 0.1.1/1:0:1 (rt: 0.1.1/1:0:1)- libusb-1.0 1.0.20.11003-rc3 API 0x01000104- libftdi 1.2- Host x86_64-w64-mingw32.static.posix, little-endian- SCPI backends TCP, serial, USBTMClibsigrokdecode 0.5.2/6:0:2 (rt: 0.5.2/6:0:2)- glib 2.44.1 (rt: 2.44.1/4401:1)- Python 3.4.4 / 0x30404f0 (API 1013, ABI 3)- Host x86_64-w64-mingw32.static.posix, little-endian

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  • is right and wrong in the same time! :)phone batteries have own charging and protection circuit inside, so, if you have a "dead phone battery" you can to pry it off, and get the bare element inside.with a bit of luck is ok and chargeable, so, you need to connect it to charger as is shown in module diagram.but you can use is as is, with lonesoulsurfer's connections...and as a side note, some (old) phone batteries have 3 pins: two plus and one minus.one of those pluses goes right to the li-ion element, the other is going through a protection/charging circuit inside.

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  • .. nope, read it again: maximum of 7 Volts, not 70 Volts!not with those dividing resistances, anyway!normally, a souncard is having a maximum 0,7 V input capability.

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  • yes, you can. :)check the svn repository: in /software/trunk you will find an already compiled firmware to use with an arduino uno, and in /hardware you will find a folder "ArduinoUno_shield" with schematic for a shield.of course, you can use an uno, nano or mini pro, because all three are 328 based arduinos.oh, and this is the newest version, 1.13k... 1.12k is now outdated...

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  • ... this is not a Bascom project, but an avr-gcc instead!no wonder you get errors: install winavr, and try again.

    try the Ardutester project, but is a very basic one, and his precision is... a mess! :)

    use a TL431.do some measurements first, modify the relevant makefile line(s), and it will be ok.

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  • if you get funny settings like "(undescifrable random stuff) 165, 165, 165", there are some reasons:- SCL and SDA inverted;- wrong pins connection;- you try to use another pin for DS's Vcc than 5V;- your DS chip is fried,- your 'duino is fried, partly or at all.my Nano seems to be fried on his I2C port, but other pins are working, on my Mega i get normal responses on I2C port, so...in a pinch, you can try a "breadboarduino", and see what you get with that...

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