petercd

Ah okay thanks for that, when I checked mine in the serial monitor, it had 2 GET's in 1 hr.Dont know why it was so slow.

I hadnt thought of that.I might use a 250ml beaker or Erlenmeyer in future, probably just pyrex, nothing fancy.

Thanks for the info, something to keep in mind when I next tinker with it.

Fold a butterfly wings sort of shape and hang over a wire that is pushed through a tinfoil ball.I used tin foil over a styrofoam ball about 50mm is diameter.bring the output near to the ball and the foil halves should spread apart, due to same charge.

Pots are not designed for high voltage, use 2x 5M in series.

At the risk of lethal shock, its your choice, the resistor limits current in case of an accident.

Forget what they're called, I used Al foil hanging over a bent copper wire in a small jar.

Probably, I dont know if there will be any difference in the circuit.

Being AC it doesnt matter which lead is live or neutral, reversing the leads will cause the motor to rotate in the opposite direction.My motor specifies both ccw and cw, some motors will only have one direction, in which case you will be limited.

Might have a shorter lifespan because they arent made to the same specs as suppresion caps.

I thought it was worth the extra effort at the time, but I dont have any empirical evidence to present.

Sure, "blurry" would depend on how accurately you align it to the axis of rotation.

attached

No idea, didnt do those kinds of tests. Common sense tells me the weakest points will be the cam mount and tripod mount.However, your main concern should be unbalance during a long exposure and the boards opening up flipping the camera over, could result in a tripod fall.

Thats because of the way you have internalized the process, you see the bag deform and conclude the atmospheric pressure is pushing out the air in the bag.Its not correct, the fundamental action is that the pump is sucking out all the air particles leaving a vacuum behind.When you get the core function that we're sucking out the air, the benefits of the chamber style become more obvious.

There's only 2 ways to do it, evacuate the air out of a bag outside the device, in which case you have atmospheric pressure pushing the bag contents into the vacuum machine hence the need for a spillage tray in a channel vac.The other way is to make a chamber, put the bag and contents inside the chamber and evacuate the air. That way there's no atmospheric pressure pushing the pasta and sauce out. Once you've sealed the bag, no spillage can occur and when you reintroduce atmospheric pressure, stuff is flat and airless.

Thanks, read about the float glass but only had 5mm thick aquarium glass at hand. That high spot in the center skittled me. :) I'd have probably had to have it surface ground by the pro's.

A quick 2min video added to step 1.

A quick 2min video added to step 1.

A quick 2min video added to step 1.

Thanks, nice to have the inside info. I spose a silicon tube underneath the top presser bar would have worked, but would have needed rails for locating it and I'd be worried it could crack the lid or unseat the seal.

Donn112, I cant reply to your teacher note, I'll post my response here instead.The maker specs this filter to remove particles of greater than 20 micron.The thing with motor oil is that it degrades with time/use and this filter wont refresh it like new, hence oil changes.I dont have any knowledge in the transformer oil area.

I meant emitter points, but more stages will also increase output.Too many output stages might increase component flash over, something to also take into consideration.

220V

220v

Increase the supply voltage.Increase the number of points, I used CF rod frayed out by burning with a lighter, last pic step 12.

Step 2 calc'sThe distance will be roughly 3X longer. ie 685mmThe cam should still work.

Output of the bridge rectifier.

Well its called a prosnip, so right there we can determine its function. :)Im guessing its for cutting copper cable like used in house wiring, stuff that a side cutters would struggle to cut.

Doubt it, but anything is possible if you try long and hard enough.I would question the sanity of sticking a gun in your mouth, especially in a public place.

If you scroll down to the end of the instructable, theres a "petercd made it" and you can see how I built it.https://www.instructables.com/Ultimate-Vegtable...

Yes, thats my diy version in the pic I posted.I cut out the lid and drilled a lot of holes to form the grid which I placed inside the box on 5 short sections of 50mm pvc tube.The main trick is to keep sunlight out of the water to prevent mold/fungus.

You gotta be careful because some plants dont like wet feet and develop root rot fairly quickly.https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/water-...However, if you use an earthbox system all will be fine as the roots have access to equal amounts of air and water once they grow through the grid into the reservoir below.https://earthbox.com/earthbox-root-veg-container-g...I've used the earthbox method on both tomatoes and peppers

Measured it with 2 soda bottles like in the video at the 1:20 mark.Although he's not doing it properly, the measuring bottle needs to be completely filled with water before starting the flow test.

You can run a 10V cell with a diode in series (voltage drop of 0.7v), so essentially you'd be feeding the meter with 9.3v which will be cool and the gang.

Drill a hole on the side near the bottom, slap in a 90 deg elbow and clear pvc tubing up the side.If you pop in a few drops of food coloring its easier to read the water level.

Rebar would be fine although a little on the thick side.I'd go for 5mm steel rod if it was me, but you're going to be burning it clean anyway, so whatever suits you.

Try threaded rod. I used RC servo's for my solar panel.https://www.instructables.com/Dual-Axis-Transis...Step 2 for the tilt axis and Step 3 for the swing axis.

The latest fix seems to have fixed all my addon's.10:50 a.m. UTC / 03:50 a.m. PDT: We rolled-out a fix for release, beta and nightly users on Desktop. The fix will be automatically applied in the background within the next few hours, you don’t need to take active steps.In order to be able to provide this fix on short notice, we are using the Studies system. You can check if you have studies enabled by going to Firefox Preferences -> Privacy & Security -> Allow Firefox to install and run studies.You can disable studies again after your add-ons have been re-enabled.We are working on a general fix that doesn’t need to rely on this and will keep you updated.

Just happened to me now and I have auto update disabled as a default.Its still not fixed.https://discourse.mozilla.org/t/certificate-issue-...At about 6:10 PST we received a report that a certificate issue for Firefox is causing add-ons to stop working and add-on installs to fail.Our team is actively working on a fix. We will update as soon as we have more information.

Nope, I work organically, so pretty much leftovers I had at hand.

Most times you cant.Its a way of seeding new ideas using incentives.For example under the "how it works" tab of the gardening contest..Write an InstructableCreate a new Instructable that fits the guidelines outlined in the contest description above. To be eligible, Instructables must be published between Apr 1, 2019 and May 27, 2019 (11:59pm PT)

Think it is called a toe jack.Bear in mind that they also used a pressurized expanding foam in the drilled holes to spread the lifting load and provide a decent bedding.ie if you're just going to lift a corner, you might crack the slab.

The main problem is current leakage to that big unshielded submerged end plate connection.Rather run a copper cable above the liquid surface and shield any exposed copper as best as you can with shrink wrap or electrical tape.

No not really, a smaller chamber is still only going to have a 36% vac, just would be quicker to get to that level than a large one.If I remember correctly, it took about a 70% vac to make a marshmallow puff up, with no real visible effect even at 50% vac.For all my tinkering needs, I used a rotary scroll compressor for an aircon unit that I picked up at the scrapyard, then modified it in order to vac bag model aircraft wings, purge air out of wood for resin stabilizing etc.

I've only found a jpg, hopefully it should suffice.I guess I'm going to need to edit that step 5 with up to date info.

Insulate the hive roof so that the inside doesn't radiate cold to the interior, perhaps a thermal barrier on the outside.

Yellow one looks like a variable cap, like found in the tuning circuits for radio.

Nope, never seen them before.

12v car batt or a small SLA 7Ah 12v as used in house alarm systems for the backup.

You'd need a linkage like the needle cutter in the 1st pic, but they are designed to run at 20 000 rpm, too fast for your needs.A better idea would be to use a windscreen wiper motor.The red circle diameter would be the amount of travel from top to bottom of the tank and the green rectangle is a straight link connecting to a pivot on the wave displacer thingy.

Didnt have the problems you seem to have encountered. I bought mine at a RC hobby shop so they were most likely the good quality nylon ones.

Try R/C connectors like either the Deans or XT60 variety, they range in sizes from 10A to 60A.

The schematic motor label in step 1 and the motor weight photo in step 5 indicate that its function is vibrate.

Fairly, my folder of pics ranges from 5th Nov to 1st dec, so about 3 weeks.Add another week for all the thinking and initial planning to be on the safe side.

Inches Bob, scooter is based in Sarasota, Florida USA

My favourite is the PM encyclopedia from 1968, used to spend hours browsing the models before I got into RC planes.Needless to say the majority of parts needed for most of the projects werent available back then.

The default is to home Z in the middle of the build area, but perhaps one can specify an empty area near the corner of the build area as the place to home the Z.Where to do that and how, I dont know alas.

How do you deal with the G28 home all command at the start of every job?Homing X and Y isnt a problem, but a Z home is going to crash the print head into the old part sitting in the middle of the build plate.

Its a winrar file, 7zip wasnt working for me either.All the dxf files are in the Shredder 2 folder.Top dxf file saved as screenprint for an example.

Thats an excellent tip right there.Not that I'll ever be messing with tesla coils, but well worth a read through.Another option is an ABS/acetone slurry that some users use in the 3D printing scene.Might even be a good use to put all the failed prints to.

Bolt a section of angle iron to the desk for a quick fix.

Google says: and https://www.robot-electronics.co.uk/files/cmps12.pdf

Its been around since Roman times, mostly used in developing/3rd world countries.http://www.ropepumps.org

Yes, Cura has a pause and park feature as well.One just needs to create a central hole during the design stage and then pause at the layer height when its a groove deep enough for the string, lay down the thread and then continue printing.

Bear in mind the original used 42 motors, one for each layer, so your scale model will also need 1 motor per layer.The smallest motor I can think of is the vibrate motor in cell phones, 5mm dia x 15mm length.Mounting them all on the inside is going to need a large cavity with as many opto sensors as motors to determine the park position for the final image.Then an Arduino with as many inputs as your layers as well as motor drive outputs.No small undertaking.Buddha busts on Thingiverse are plenty, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53925Getting a 3D printer to print a range of layers as individual model slices will be another tricky item.I'm guessing its not doable on a small scale.

From the video you posted.Installed in 2014, the enormous mirrored bust is comprised of 42 independently driven layers of stainless steel and weighs in at some 45 tons.The rest was from my imagination.Normal steppers are too big to fit in a desk sized model, so I figured geared motors with an opto ring for positioning.However, there is a tiny little stepper that changes the lens focus inside some Blu-Ray DVD drives which might be another alternative.http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/Blu-ray/site1/...

Each layer has its own motor.You'd also need bearings between each layer, something like small plastic BB's running in a groove.So the base layer is stationary and all the others just stack up on BB bearings.That way you can have a central support for all the motors at different layer heights, like a spiral staircase.

Consistently accurate plastic entering the extruder.The software calculates extrusion based on volume of plastic.In my case, I specify the diameter as 1.75mm, which is consistent for the entire spool.Any variation will result in either over or under extrusion, throwing out dimensional accuracies.Best bet would be as Yonatan24 suggested, one machine to create the filament from recyclables.

2 diodes, 1 to block the PV from charging the gen and 1 to block the gen from putting voltage into the PV.

How I would do it is by scrounging brushes with their holders out of old/broken motors.Cutting sections of matching width from a copper tube would serve as the slip ring side of things.They would of course have to be insulated if slipped over a metal shaft, but that is easily done using a combination of resin and insulating paper used for motor windings.