petercd

If you scroll down to the end of the instructable, theres a "petercd made it" and you can see how I built it.https://www.instructables.com/id/Ultimate-Vegtable...

Yes, thats my diy version in the pic I posted.I cut out the lid and drilled a lot of holes to form the grid which I placed inside the box on 5 short sections of 50mm pvc tube.The main trick is to keep sunlight out of the water to prevent mold/fungus.

You gotta be careful because some plants dont like wet feet and develop root rot fairly quickly.https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/water-...However, if you use an earthbox system all will be fine as the roots have access to equal amounts of air and water once they grow through the grid into the reservoir below.https://earthbox.com/earthbox-root-veg-container-g...I've used the earthbox method on both tomatoes and peppers

Measured it with 2 soda bottles like in the video at the 1:20 mark.Although he's not doing it properly, the measuring bottle needs to be completely filled with water before starting the flow test.

You can run a 10V cell with a diode in series (voltage drop of 0.7v), so essentially you'd be feeding the meter with 9.3v which will be cool and the gang.

Drill a hole on the side near the bottom, slap in a 90 deg elbow and clear pvc tubing up the side.If you pop in a few drops of food coloring its easier to read the water level.

Rebar would be fine although a little on the thick side.I'd go for 5mm steel rod if it was me, but you're going to be burning it clean anyway, so whatever suits you.

Try threaded rod. I used RC servo's for my solar panel.https://www.instructables.com/id/Dual-Axis-Transis...Step 2 for the tilt axis and Step 3 for the swing axis.

The latest fix seems to have fixed all my addon's.10:50 a.m. UTC / 03:50 a.m. PDT: We rolled-out a fix for release, beta and nightly users on Desktop. The fix will be automatically applied in the background within the next few hours, you don’t need to take active steps.In order to be able to provide this fix on short notice, we are using the Studies system. You can check if you have studies enabled by going to Firefox Preferences -> Privacy & Security -> Allow Firefox to install and run studies.You can disable studies again after your add-ons have been re-enabled.We are working on a general fix that doesn’t need to rely on this and will keep you updated.

Just happened to me now and I have auto update disabled as a default.Its still not fixed.https://discourse.mozilla.org/t/certificate-issue-...At about 6:10 PST we received a report that a certificate issue for Firefox is causing add-ons to stop working and add-on installs to fail.Our team is actively working on a fix. We will update as soon as we have more information.

Nope, I work organically, so pretty much leftovers I had at hand.

Most times you cant.Its a way of seeding new ideas using incentives.For example under the "how it works" tab of the gardening contest..Write an InstructableCreate a new Instructable that fits the guidelines outlined in the contest description above. To be eligible, Instructables must be published between Apr 1, 2019 and May 27, 2019 (11:59pm PT)

Think it is called a toe jack.Bear in mind that they also used a pressurized expanding foam in the drilled holes to spread the lifting load and provide a decent bedding.ie if you're just going to lift a corner, you might crack the slab.

The main problem is current leakage to that big unshielded submerged end plate connection.Rather run a copper cable above the liquid surface and shield any exposed copper as best as you can with shrink wrap or electrical tape.

No not really, a smaller chamber is still only going to have a 36% vac, just would be quicker to get to that level than a large one.If I remember correctly, it took about a 70% vac to make a marshmallow puff up, with no real visible effect even at 50% vac.For all my tinkering needs, I used a rotary scroll compressor for an aircon unit that I picked up at the scrapyard, then modified it in order to vac bag model aircraft wings, purge air out of wood for resin stabilizing etc.

I've only found a jpg, hopefully it should suffice.I guess I'm going to need to edit that step 5 with up to date info.

Insulate the hive roof so that the inside doesn't radiate cold to the interior, perhaps a thermal barrier on the outside.

Yellow one looks like a variable cap, like found in the tuning circuits for radio.

Nope, never seen them before.

12v car batt or a small SLA 7Ah 12v as used in house alarm systems for the backup.

You'd need a linkage like the needle cutter in the 1st pic, but they are designed to run at 20 000 rpm, too fast for your needs.A better idea would be to use a windscreen wiper motor.The red circle diameter would be the amount of travel from top to bottom of the tank and the green rectangle is a straight link connecting to a pivot on the wave displacer thingy.

Didnt have the problems you seem to have encountered. I bought mine at a RC hobby shop so they were most likely the good quality nylon ones.

Try R/C connectors like either the Deans or XT60 variety, they range in sizes from 10A to 60A.

The schematic motor label in step 1 and the motor weight photo in step 5 indicate that its function is vibrate.

Fairly, my folder of pics ranges from 5th Nov to 1st dec, so about 3 weeks.Add another week for all the thinking and initial planning to be on the safe side.

Inches Bob, scooter is based in Sarasota, Florida USA

My favourite is the PM encyclopedia from 1968, used to spend hours browsing the models before I got into RC planes.Needless to say the majority of parts needed for most of the projects werent available back then.

The default is to home Z in the middle of the build area, but perhaps one can specify an empty area near the corner of the build area as the place to home the Z.Where to do that and how, I dont know alas.

How do you deal with the G28 home all command at the start of every job?Homing X and Y isnt a problem, but a Z home is going to crash the print head into the old part sitting in the middle of the build plate.

Its a winrar file, 7zip wasnt working for me either.All the dxf files are in the Shredder 2 folder.Top dxf file saved as screenprint for an example.

Thats an excellent tip right there.Not that I'll ever be messing with tesla coils, but well worth a read through.Another option is an ABS/acetone slurry that some users use in the 3D printing scene.Might even be a good use to put all the failed prints to.

Bolt a section of angle iron to the desk for a quick fix.

Google says: and https://www.robot-electronics.co.uk/files/cmps12.pdf

Its been around since Roman times, mostly used in developing/3rd world countries.http://www.ropepumps.org

Yes, Cura has a pause and park feature as well.One just needs to create a central hole during the design stage and then pause at the layer height when its a groove deep enough for the string, lay down the thread and then continue printing.

Bear in mind the original used 42 motors, one for each layer, so your scale model will also need 1 motor per layer.The smallest motor I can think of is the vibrate motor in cell phones, 5mm dia x 15mm length.Mounting them all on the inside is going to need a large cavity with as many opto sensors as motors to determine the park position for the final image.Then an Arduino with as many inputs as your layers as well as motor drive outputs.No small undertaking.Buddha busts on Thingiverse are plenty, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53925Getting a 3D printer to print a range of layers as individual model slices will be another tricky item.I'm guessing its not doable on a small scale.

From the video you posted.Installed in 2014, the enormous mirrored bust is comprised of 42 independently driven layers of stainless steel and weighs in at some 45 tons.The rest was from my imagination.Normal steppers are too big to fit in a desk sized model, so I figured geared motors with an opto ring for positioning.However, there is a tiny little stepper that changes the lens focus inside some Blu-Ray DVD drives which might be another alternative.http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/Blu-ray/site1/...

Each layer has its own motor.You'd also need bearings between each layer, something like small plastic BB's running in a groove.So the base layer is stationary and all the others just stack up on BB bearings.That way you can have a central support for all the motors at different layer heights, like a spiral staircase.

Consistently accurate plastic entering the extruder.The software calculates extrusion based on volume of plastic.In my case, I specify the diameter as 1.75mm, which is consistent for the entire spool.Any variation will result in either over or under extrusion, throwing out dimensional accuracies.Best bet would be as Yonatan24 suggested, one machine to create the filament from recyclables.

2 diodes, 1 to block the PV from charging the gen and 1 to block the gen from putting voltage into the PV.

How I would do it is by scrounging brushes with their holders out of old/broken motors.Cutting sections of matching width from a copper tube would serve as the slip ring side of things.They would of course have to be insulated if slipped over a metal shaft, but that is easily done using a combination of resin and insulating paper used for motor windings.

You're in luck,whyameye has already made one.https://www.instructables.com/id/Networked-RGB-Wi-Fi-Decorative-Touch-Lights/

It goes a lot quicker with a pressure washer, just press the nozzle against the sand to prevent a lot of back spray and it turns it into quicksand.

Dont have one, don't know how, but a google search yielded the following.Probably easier using light sensors instead of bump gates/switches.https://www.lego.com/en-us/mindstorms/learn-to-pro...

That mp4 file returns an error ... NoSuchKeyThe specified key does not exist.Cant find the youtube site either, got lost amongst the 23 million other hits for glass laser engraving

Same way the ultrasonic transducer crew do it, arduino to measuer the time intervals.https://www.instructables.com/id/Distance-Meter-1/

Yep, this helped me out greatly, thanks very much.I actually saw your comment posted on Github which led me here. :)

Yep, this helped me out greatly, thanks very much.I actually saw your comment posted on Github which led me here. :)

Aah thanks. thought it might be but it was still too big at 80%.

Quite a lot of features, but I hadnt heard of it till your comment.I havent figured out where to change the drawing area max size, so it tries to go outside the area and hits the alarm.

You could try cable chains, Im quite happy with the 3D printed ones from Thingiverse.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34661Mine are 22m wide and 14mm high, printed 39 of them for the X axis 330mm travel.

Probably the element, either check with an IR temp device or measure the resistance of the element with a multimeter.

The 1010 is 1" X1" which is 12.54mm sq and the 1020 is 1"X2" which is 12.54mm X 50.8mm.Unfortunately much is lost in translation from imperial to metric and it usually results in sloppy fits between parts.Its best to engineer the entire unit in metric if living in a metric country, less headaches.Down my side of the world here in Cape Town a 2030 extrusion is 20mm X 30mm and makes life much easier when desiging from scratch and ordering compatable mounting hardware.

I had the exact same freezing problem with my Hypercube using mega 2560 & RAMPS 1.4.It was a result of using a class 6 SD card and the issue dissapeared when I upgraded to a class 10 SD card.Of course if it happens when printing over usb from the PC then my solution wont be of any benefit. :)

I suspect its the fault of your PSU which sends 17V in open mode, ie not under load.You definitely need a switched PSU for these devices like an old ATX psu and not the wallmart variable voltage style psu's.CHeck the open volts on the psu to confirm what its output is.

You use the first servo position on the RAMPS board, the 3pin down at the bottom left and 2 pin power top right in the image below.The yellow ringed jumper is to enable power to the servo.English pdf : https://locxess.de/3d/BLTouch_Anleitung_englisch.pdf

From WikiA sex bolt, (also known as a barrel nut,[1] barrel bolt, Chicago screw, post and screw or connector bolt),[2][3] is a type of fastener (nut) that has a barrel-shaped flange and protruding boss that is internally threaded.

Under the stepper driver boards, I had a dry joint on mine resulting in no power to the Mega2560.

Mine was an old school 1N4007 but yours is most likely the SMT component that I have circled in red.

3D printer filament.ABS and nylon tend to absorb humidity from the atmosphere.This is heard as tiny pops when the filament is extruding/ printing an object.

I dont have CorelDraw but it opened just fine in Inkscape.Its a packed file so you should be able to open it as an archive in 7Zip or similar program to view the contents as per my attached pic.If it looks the same as mine then perhaps your problem lies with CorelDraw.

Started with a denim micarta dual cell mod, very labour intensive and a combination of life and other interests got it moved to the back burner.