petercd

Bolt a section of angle iron to the desk for a quick fix.

Google says: and https://www.robot-electronics.co.uk/files/cmps12.pdf

Its been around since Roman times, mostly used in developing/3rd world countries.http://www.ropepumps.org

Yes, Cura has a pause and park feature as well.One just needs to create a central hole during the design stage and then pause at the layer height when its a groove deep enough for the string, lay down the thread and then continue printing.

Bear in mind the original used 42 motors, one for each layer, so your scale model will also need 1 motor per layer.The smallest motor I can think of is the vibrate motor in cell phones, 5mm dia x 15mm length.Mounting them all on the inside is going to need a large cavity with as many opto sensors as motors to determine the park position for the final image.Then an Arduino with as many inputs as your layers as well as motor drive outputs.No small undertaking.Buddha busts on Thingiverse are plenty, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53925Getting a 3D printer to print a range of layers as individual model slices will be another tricky item.I'm guessing its not doable on a small scale.

From the video you posted.Installed in 2014, the enormous mirrored bust is comprised of 42 independently driven layers of stainless steel and weighs in at some 45 tons.The rest was from my imagination.Normal steppers are too big to fit in a desk sized model, so I figured geared motors with an opto ring for positioning.However, there is a tiny little stepper that changes the lens focus inside some Blu-Ray DVD drives which might be another alternative.http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/Blu-ray/site1/...

Each layer has its own motor.You'd also need bearings between each layer, something like small plastic BB's running in a groove.So the base layer is stationary and all the others just stack up on BB bearings.That way you can have a central support for all the motors at different layer heights, like a spiral staircase.

Consistently accurate plastic entering the extruder.The software calculates extrusion based on volume of plastic.In my case, I specify the diameter as 1.75mm, which is consistent for the entire spool.Any variation will result in either over or under extrusion, throwing out dimensional accuracies.Best bet would be as Yonatan24 suggested, one machine to create the filament from recyclables.

2 diodes, 1 to block the PV from charging the gen and 1 to block the gen from putting voltage into the PV.

How I would do it is by scrounging brushes with their holders out of old/broken motors.Cutting sections of matching width from a copper tube would serve as the slip ring side of things.They would of course have to be insulated if slipped over a metal shaft, but that is easily done using a combination of resin and insulating paper used for motor windings.

You're in luck,whyameye has already made one.https://www.instructables.com/id/Networked-RGB-Wi-Fi-Decorative-Touch-Lights/

It goes a lot quicker with a pressure washer, just press the nozzle against the sand to prevent a lot of back spray and it turns it into quicksand.

Dont have one, don't know how, but a google search yielded the following.Probably easier using light sensors instead of bump gates/switches.https://www.lego.com/en-us/mindstorms/learn-to-pro...

That mp4 file returns an error ... NoSuchKeyThe specified key does not exist.Cant find the youtube site either, got lost amongst the 23 million other hits for glass laser engraving

Same way the ultrasonic transducer crew do it, arduino to measuer the time intervals.https://www.instructables.com/id/Distance-Meter-1/

Yep, this helped me out greatly, thanks very much.I actually saw your comment posted on Github which led me here. :)

Yep, this helped me out greatly, thanks very much.I actually saw your comment posted on Github which led me here. :)

Aah thanks. thought it might be but it was still too big at 80%.

Quite a lot of features, but I hadnt heard of it till your comment.I havent figured out where to change the drawing area max size, so it tries to go outside the area and hits the alarm.

You could try cable chains, Im quite happy with the 3D printed ones from Thingiverse.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34661Mine are 22m wide and 14mm high, printed 39 of them for the X axis 330mm travel.

Probably the element, either check with an IR temp device or measure the resistance of the element with a multimeter.

The 1010 is 1" X1" which is 12.54mm sq and the 1020 is 1"X2" which is 12.54mm X 50.8mm.Unfortunately much is lost in translation from imperial to metric and it usually results in sloppy fits between parts.Its best to engineer the entire unit in metric if living in a metric country, less headaches.Down my side of the world here in Cape Town a 2030 extrusion is 20mm X 30mm and makes life much easier when desiging from scratch and ordering compatable mounting hardware.

I had the exact same freezing problem with my Hypercube using mega 2560 & RAMPS 1.4.It was a result of using a class 6 SD card and the issue dissapeared when I upgraded to a class 10 SD card.Of course if it happens when printing over usb from the PC then my solution wont be of any benefit. :)

I suspect its the fault of your PSU which sends 17V in open mode, ie not under load.You definitely need a switched PSU for these devices like an old ATX psu and not the wallmart variable voltage style psu's.CHeck the open volts on the psu to confirm what its output is.

You use the first servo position on the RAMPS board, the 3pin down at the bottom left and 2 pin power top right in the image below.The yellow ringed jumper is to enable power to the servo.English pdf : https://locxess.de/3d/BLTouch_Anleitung_englisch.pdf

From WikiA sex bolt, (also known as a barrel nut,[1] barrel bolt, Chicago screw, post and screw or connector bolt),[2][3] is a type of fastener (nut) that has a barrel-shaped flange and protruding boss that is internally threaded.

Under the stepper driver boards, I had a dry joint on mine resulting in no power to the Mega2560.

Mine was an old school 1N4007 but yours is most likely the SMT component that I have circled in red.

3D printer filament.ABS and nylon tend to absorb humidity from the atmosphere.This is heard as tiny pops when the filament is extruding/ printing an object.

I dont have CorelDraw but it opened just fine in Inkscape.Its a packed file so you should be able to open it as an archive in 7Zip or similar program to view the contents as per my attached pic.If it looks the same as mine then perhaps your problem lies with CorelDraw.

Started with a denim micarta dual cell mod, very labour intensive and a combination of life and other interests got it moved to the back burner.

Most welcome, thanks for the kind words. :)

If you saw my other gas related 'ibles, you'd know I use a bubbler and caustic soda(lye or sodium hydroxide).Pressure switch would be neat, but I dont want to put my trust in one considering the caustic environment.

There's no corona or radiation, just neg ions.

Probably not, Im using caps designed for direct connection to AC power.Class X2 Suppression Cap 100nF High quality (MPX type) metallized polypropylene film capacitor.Can be connected directly across power lines up to 275V AC 50Hz to 60Hz.

Yip, in hindsight the copper might leech via reaction with the nutrients, as you point out SS wire would have been the wiser choice.

Its a standard compressor sitting on the ground next to the engine bay.I omitted a pic of it seeing its about as well known as a toothbrush.Remember to set the pressure limit on the compressors gauge to 5 or 10 kpa to prevent bursting any brake line components.

You could, depending on your hoses and connectors.I use the vacuum method mostly so that I can see when the fluid is starting to run clean at the caliper.I use pvc tubing which would make it unsuitable for pressure at the caliper bleed nipples.

It doesnt, the contents do, lightweight expanded clay aggregate balls. ie LECA

Nice find.Mine was close to the hinge in my Powershot A480 in a black plastic holder, also a CR1220 which measured 2.85V.Still some life left in it. :)

Nice monster build there. :)Well done.

Not at all, as can be seen from my sample pics at the end.Grease all metal on metal parts in case its friction related and ensure the tripod mounts are solid in case they are amplifying small movements.Only other thing to check would be smooth rotation of the motor in an unloaded scenario.

Not at all, as can be seen from my sample pics at the end.Grease all metal on metal parts in case its friction related and ensure the tripod mounts are solid in case they are amplifying small movements.Next would be to remove any burrs on the drive rod, slap some metal polish on it and run it through the T-nut a couple of times using an electric drill, that should do the trick.Only other thing to check would be smooth rotation of the motor in an unloaded scenario.

Thanks.After much googling I found a big supplier here in South Africa that also offered a precut service, they had excellent service and were cheap enough for me not to worry about the pricing vs Mitsumi or similar international suppliers.http://www.automationbuyer.co.za

1. 10 stages with 220V Ac input should be fine, its what I have.2. hiss means its working, more needles = more smell providing you have neg ions emitting.3. as many as you want, but I prefer CF tips due to the thousands of emitting tips.

bout 15 ~ 20mm should be fine.

For the drill press when close is good enough, I chuck a 8mm dia chrome steel bar from an old printer and check with a square.For the mill I use a dial indicator in the collet and then tram the table.If the drill press is out a couple of microns, its neither here nor there, but anything worse than 0.2mm I would start thinking of shimming the upright, for the benchtop models with the fixed base.

IMO its more a side dish of the make cycle, than the break cycle that I'll be using.Thomas Salanderer did a sensor shootout and recorded a standard deviation of less than 3 microns.He didn't dwell on the microswitch as much as the BLtouch, however his chart shows the microswitch as a better performer.Bear in mind that he is using an unmodified switch, so I'm betting my modified version will be better performance.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY @11:37

A 10mm lug, crimped with a brake tube flaring kit using the 8mm position of the tube holding bars, squeezed in a vise.Still needs some heat shrink to avoid direct metal to metal contact.

A nice upgrade would be a carbon fiber brush, I had the idea of using a 50mm length of CF braided tube crimped in a copper ferrule.Just unravel the free end of the braid to form the brush.Adding some glycerine to the mix should render it more gel like so that you can glop it around the part instead of it being runny like water.

Use Florian Balmer's Notepad2 and under the "view" tab, select "line numbers".

Caustic soda instead of acid for etching aluminium.

I wouldnt have thought this would work in a tin, seeing as my Garmin Nuvi40 doesnt pick up signal under the corrugated iron roof in my garage.Perhaps its getting signal through the led display, in which case a non metallic back should increase the performance considerably.

Thanks, I havent used it yet, but thought I'd make one before its needed.

No, propane generally needs metered air at the tip. If you can find a propane jet that will fit, it should work.