poblocki1982

Hi, it is possible, but the electronics would need to be connected constantly anyway. You could add separte on/off switch just for the LED light inside the Moon. Then switch on the electronics and then choose when you wish to switch light on. If you don't supply power to the electronics the Arduino will not know what time and date it is and how many steps to move the stepper motor. The solution for that would be to add internal clock which would required a battery too. In this case the code would need to be modified a lot.

Hi, ususally you should see 2 options for support material. One is 'touching build plate' which will only generate support from the base and the other is 'everywhere' wchi will generate support in between parts too. You should use 'everywhere' option. Please let me know if that helps. The model should print OK weven without support on most of the printers too.

Thats actually good idea, i think i will work on adding that to next version. Thanks for that :)

Thanks for the interest, but i don't really make things for sale. Maybe you could find some maker in your local community? If I would find time to make it cost ridiculus amount of money at the moment to post to US, about $50. They blame covid for increasing the proce by 300%

Thanks :)

That would require a little bit of fidling. I actually tried to do that to see how difficoult it is. First you would hace to use very sharp blade to cut through the plastic (between 2 hemispheres). Then remove the back Moon piece to access the bulb and replace it.After that i had re-print the back piece and then i was able to put it back together.Its not ideal, but due to the design ots the only way i think. I did try to maje the internal sphere smaller and the bottom Moon hole larger byt it didn'l look as good.

Thanks Jessy :) Mine has been set to 29.5 days period and sitting on my desk :D

Hi, could you email the modified code to my email : poblocki.m@gmail.com and I will be happy to help :)

Thnak you :) The original version was with silver infinity mirror, but in the end I decided to use regular blue mirror. The infinity vesrion was nice, but a littl ebit too distractive for everyday use :) As a decoration infinity mirror is definitely the way to go. I do have STL files for infinity version and I will add it to the instructable this week as a optional upgrade :)

Hi, I come across similar error before myself. As the Stargate mirror doesn't use FireTimer.h library it must have been used for one of your other projects and then possibly removed. Now Arduino checks all the libraries and can't find FireTimer and although it's not used in current code you receive an error. What I would suggest is to install Arduino IDE on different PC and then try to compile sketch. Another option is to reinstall on your currnet PC, but remember to remove manually all libreries. You can also try to download FireTimer.h library and manually add it to the libraries folder or even add to the Stargate code as it won't do any harm to the code. I just downloaded the Stargate code and it's compiling OK on my PC so please try above solution and let me know if it helps.

Nice to see remake of my Aztec pot on Instructables :)

Hi, I'm glad it's working now :) As for the frequency, 1MOhm pot + 100k resistor + 1000uF capacitor + Coil make a RLC circuit. As soon as capacitor is charged it opens PNP transistor which actiates NPN transistors and activated the coil. Once that happens capacitor is dischared slightly through 100k resistor and 1M pot and PNP transistor stops conducting. Then capacitor is charged again and the process repeat itself until the magnetic ball has enough speed to induce a voltage in the coil. The voltage spike goes from the coil through the 100k resistor (the one connected directly to the coil) to the base of the PNP transistor. Opening the PNP and therefore opening the NPN transistors which powers the coil, giving the ball a push in the same direction, therefore speeding it up. I hope this h…

Hi, I'm glad it's working now :) As for the frequency, 1MOhm pot + 100k resistor + 1000uF capacitor + Coil make a RLC circuit. As soon as capacitor is charged it opens PNP transistor which actiates NPN transistors and activated the coil. Once that happens capacitor is dischared slightly through 100k resistor and 1M pot and PNP transistor stops conducting. Then capacitor is charged again and the process repeat itself until the magnetic ball has enough speed to induce a voltage in the coil. The voltage spike goes from the coil through the 100k resistor (the one connected directly to the coil) to the base of the PNP transistor. Opening the PNP and therefore opening the NPN transistors which powers the coil, giving the ball a push in the same direction, therefore speeding it up. I hope this helps, Thnaks,Marcin

Hi, did you check the track itself? When I made first prototype the tarck inside wasn't smooth and due to friction the ball bearing didn't accelarate. Another thing to check is the coil wiring, amke sure they are winded same direction and connected in series. You could add more turns to to coils too. Finally, I know you said you tried this already, but play with potentiometer again once you check all above things. Sometimes it's just a matter of half a turn to find the perfect value for particulat magnetic ball. I hope it helps, but let me know how it goes. Thanks :)

Thank you so much! I'm not anative English speaker so sometimes it's difficult to explain things, but I'mdoing my best :)

I definitely recommend buying one, but once you start printing you won't stop lol

OMG! Those close up pictures are fantastic! I can improve the details on my design now a little bit :D Thank you for your kind words, it means a lot from someone who actaully worked on Stargate prop fabrication!

Thanks a lot! Same here and I'm working on Stargate Atlantis mirror too :D

Hi, thanks :) Yeah, I was planning to make is spinning but for this size I would need stroger servos and the whole thing would become much more complex and thicker. I'm actually working on Atlantis version for the reason you mentioned :) Also I almost completed the spinning vesrion, but it's only 20cm diamater so SG90 servo can move it :)

That's good idea, I will try that, but as you said I'm not a huge fun of the noise they produce myself :)

Thanks :)

Thanks :D

Thta's a great idea! Thanks for that :)

No problem at all :) I'm glad it works :D

Hi, have you checked or try to play with potentiometer? It wight be at it's extreme setting where frequency is very high. Another thing to do is to place the ball few centimeters from the coil and then tilt the device so the ball moves toward the coil. It should then start to oscillate and gain some speed. If you placed the ball inside the coil and switched the device on, it will behave the way you described (the ball will get stuck in magnetinc field of the coil). Finally, if that doesn't help, check the transistors pinout. As I found out while making this project same type transistors can have different pinouts depending where they are manufatured. Europe, US and japan have different pinouts and the one I used where made in Europe. Let me know if it helped. Thanks and fingers crossed,Ma…

Hi, have you checked or try to play with potentiometer? It wight be at it's extreme setting where frequency is very high. Another thing to do is to place the ball few centimeters from the coil and then tilt the device so the ball moves toward the coil. It should then start to oscillate and gain some speed. If you placed the ball inside the coil and switched the device on, it will behave the way you described (the ball will get stuck in magnetinc field of the coil). Finally, if that doesn't help, check the transistors pinout. As I found out while making this project same type transistors can have different pinouts depending where they are manufatured. Europe, US and japan have different pinouts and the one I used where made in Europe. Let me know if it helped. Thanks and fingers crossed,Marcin

Hi, the A and V are not reversed. When you see labels, A, V, LED's etc. the picture is taken from the top of the apparatus. When you see wires, the picture is taken from the bottom on the appratus, that's why it looks like it's reveresed. When the picture is taken from the bottom to show the wiering you will see 'back side' in the corner of the picture. Becuase the A and V are not reversed, simply pictures are taken from top/bottom to show different aspects of the apparatus, there is no short circuit either. I hope this helps.

You are correct, my apologies for uploading wrong schema. It is correted now and both schema and photo are showing correct wiering. Thanks for noticing it.

Hi, yes you are right, prhaps that would be better approach for calculating error. I will do the math and see what I will get :) Thanks