schockmade

Very Cool. Thank you for sharing.

You will want to glue the floor parts together before you glue the ID Badge onto it. That way you can get the floors leveled properly much easier. We are looking forward to seeing your finished project.

GuidoMonstrey, Sorry for the delay. It was a busy weekend. I did not see the files either for the handle or the badge. We will get them up as soon as we can. I have to find the file for the badge.

I do not have the model at my house to take measurements so I am going to try to describe it in photos. Hope this helps with how things line up. The rear floor is set to the level of the ledge behind the seat. If I recall it is the shorter end measured from the start of the wheel well that glues to this ledge and I believe it butts up to the back of the seat. This can be verified by measuring with a side of fenders and rocker glued together. As for the tire spacers my Brother will have to verify that. He designed and glued up that system. Hope that this helps if not ask more questions.

One other thought too is that I have all the parts fit together in a CAD mock up that I can move pieces around and take a screen shot of for your Dad if he gets stuck on a part. The only things not represented in that model is the tires and mounts.

There is one photo in the Assembling section showing the spacers being used to keep the height right on the rear floor panel meeting up with the mid-floor "seat" panel. I will look to see if I have another floor printed and try to take some measurements and photos to share. It will be a few hours until I can take a look. Another thing that I recall is that the front and rear fenders can be glued to the rocker panel making a complete side and that gives a guide as to how the floors are glued together. Hope this helps.

Beerwiser143, We hope to have the files ready in about two weeks, and we will let you know just as soon as we get them up. For the second one we are building we are going to try to figure out how to put a Teal Rallye paint job onto it.

I bought my first one right after high school. It was a 79 that was white on top and Omaha Orange below. Ours was on our family for years.

We are fixing a few files. We should have them uploaded in two weeks. We will let you know just as soon as they are up.

We are fixing a few files before releasing. We will let you know as soon as they are up. Should be two weeks.

Rickharris. All great points and I do not disagree at all. I too view this as a secondary line of defense and not a primary. I am printing masks for hospitals that are disinfecting them and using the best filter media that they can get their hands on. I have a sister and a sister-in-law on the front lines of which one hospital has adopted them and the other is testing them. Lets all hope and pray that a cure is found soon. Stay Safe.

This gasket is still in the works. It is a poured 2 part silicone into a 3D printed mold. I have yet another gasket version printing now. If it works then I am going to try merging the two designs together. Still looks like I am going to need to glue it on though.

Very nice. I have been working on the same. I have a dozen here that I need to sand, clean and then send off to my sister's hospital for further cleaning. I put a note on the communities board here at Instructables with links to the www.makethemasks.com website in Billings. Makers in Denver cranked out 350 masks to donate in just under 3 days. Well done stithjim.

As you pointed out this is not FDA or NIOSH approved to replace N95 masks. However, I do know that some hospitals are looking at them as the only alternative. Many now are given one mask for the entire day. Yuck. I have been working on my own gasket and today I joined forces with Cody Z in Denver. His version pictured here is getting really close, but it will still require glue. I am sure that gluing them on will make it tougher to decon though.

I learned how to do this process from your Instructable. I want to thank you. I am amazed at the results. My first attempt was a fairly complex photo and it came out way better than I expected.

Thank you. I am happy to hear that I did a good job as a tribute. I look forward to experimenting a bit more with the technique used on the horseshoes and with cold casting.

Amazed I am. So I Voted. What part of America is home for you? I would love to see this some day.

Thank you Schillie.

Thank you Penolopy.

Fantastic work. I believe that I may have to make one of these. It would be my second gzumwalt build. Though I have been a fan of many others.

Lessons of our youth. Some lessons were tougher than others.

Too funny and very true.

Super cool.

Kenwarf02, You won my extra printed model. Just to clarify, it is unpainted and unassembled. It is also does not have the internal compartment like the safe version. I will try to figure out how to Private Message and then you can tell me where to ship it to.

Great design and very clean. I designed my first one four years ago and it was no where near as complex. I got some new ideas from your design and appreciate the work you put into this.

Fantastic work. I really respect you accomplished here.

tcoyle1, Thank you for your comment. I will add you to the drawing and let you know if you get the already printed model.

Kenwarf02. Thank you for the comments. I will put you in for the drawing and let you know if you get the already printed model.

mrseahm, Thank you. You are in the drawing and I will let you know.

Seamster Thank you for your kind words. The salt trick was one I picked up here on Instructables. I had seen it on two different projects before I tried it. I love the effect and it is very easy to do.

I love the expansion idea. Original? Either way, brilliant.