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seaprimate

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0058: Encode
    HackerBox 0058: Encode

    Made it. Both scanner and tft worked. Now wanting to hook a keypad up to it and see if I can make my own barcodes separate from a computer.

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  • HackerBox 0057: Safe Mode

    Has anyone gotten the ESP32 Marauder to compile? I used the exact same components they used in the github instructions and it still won't work

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  • HackerBox 0056: Demon Seed

    google the program ZADIG and change the driver for USBasp from WinUSB to libusb-win32

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  • HackerBox 0056: Demon Seed

    If you get the error "could not find USB device with vid=0x16c0 pid=0x5dc"then google the program ZADIG and change the driver for USBasp from WinUSB to libusb-win32 and it should work. Also don't forget to add pinMode(2, OUTPUT); and digitalWrite(2, HIGH); to your sketches before uploading them.

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  • HackerBox 0056: Demon Seed

    Kinda tricky to solder. Made a microUSB and a USB extention cable. Both work good.

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0052: Freeform
    HackerBox 0052: Freeform

    Made the brain wave thing which was fun. Printing a crude circuit board for it to make it more portable as a badge. Tried doing the freeform thing but rage quit in the middle of it. I'm not artistic to begin with, and soldering those wires to the pads frustrated me too much

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  • HackerBox 0052: Freeform

    Designed a board for it to make it a badge. Added a module to charge and use a Li-Ion battery to make it more portable.

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0051: MCU Lab
    HackerBox 0051: MCU Lab

    Just want to reiterate to use the (old bootloader) if using the arduino nano. Look forward to using the hell out of this thing. Seems to be extremely handy. PS: love the "remove before flight" keychain as well.

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  • 4 Game Micro Player Galaga

    If you lost the sound after removing the potting, you can solder a wire directly from the negative terminal of the speaker to the negative terminal on the battery pack to reestablish the ground. Also, you can get momentary spst push buttons and solder them to button A and/or Button B pads on the main board with some wire.

    Yup, you can. Works as expected. This setup isn't pretty, and people with more time and inclination could make a more professional look, but I personally like the aesthetics of roughly hacked electronics.

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0050
    HackerBox 0050

    https://github.com/seaprimate/HB20-edit-for-HB50

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0050
    HackerBox 0050

    The sketch for the Summer Camp badge reworked for this badge. This code will work as is on the badge, but it won't have a mute function. Feel free to use it to utilize the leds/buzzer/wifi/screen in one sketch.it's a bit messy because I was playing with the intterupt. if anyone knows how to fix the interrupt code so it uses the 3rd button to (de)activate mute let me know. I've tried several things none which worked.https://github.com/seaprimate/HB20-edit-for-HB50

    I accidentally connected tx-tx and rx-rx the first try, and got that same issue. once I caught the mistake and switched the tx to rx and vice versa, it worked fine. may not be your problem but worth a double check

    Hackerbox 20 badge uses the same esp32, lights and buzzer. You'll have to change the number of lights from 5 to 6, add an extra increment in the light loop, and change the pin numbers around, but the code should work. once I get the buttons up and running I could share the modified code

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0050
    HackerBox 0050

    I like this box. Mixes a lot of useful skills, THT soldering, SMD soldering, arduino programming, Judging by the intro, you should be able to load the HB020_Badge_B.ino from the HB0020 box instructable. Probably could do anything the SummerBadge could do with a little editing?I wonder if you can get it to run microsoft's makecode arcade games using micropython...

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0050
    HackerBox 0050

    Tried using Arduino IDE for the first time on my new laptop that runs Linux Mint, and I ran into a speed bump that took an hour of googling, trial, and error to overcome. Hopefully, if you get the "ImportError: No module named serial" when using Ubuntu/Mint, this will save you some headache...Apparently the Serial module in Python 2.7 doesn't work for ESP* boards, and you need to install pyserial. You can do that by typing "pip install pyserial" in terminal. If you don't have pip for some reason, then you need to "sudo apt-get install python-pip" before the previous command. Hope that helps.

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  • HackerBox 0049: Debug

    Maybe a driver issue if its persistent across boards? Windows 10 seems to love the generic libusbk for usb devices. If all else fails, sometimes that fixes it. Though if you can see it in the ports, then it's probably not that.Also, I didn't use the "WEMOS LOLIN32" one, I used "ESP32 Dev Module"upload 921600cpu 240mhzflash 80mhzflash mode QIOFlash size 4MB(32Mb)Debug nonePSRAM disabledProgrammer AVRISP MKIIWorked for me.

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0049: Debug
    HackerBox 0049: Debug

    So the CY7C68013A Mini Board was DOA out of the box, power LED wouldn't light and wouldn't get recognized when plugged into USB. Used multimeter and determined that the toggle switch was bad, didn't have a DPDT switch on hand so improvised and overcame with two regular SPDT switches. Works like a charm now if I flip them both simultaneously. Also, check the other comments for ways to make the FastLED script to run. I wouldn't have gotten it up and running as fast had it not been for doing that.Still trying to learn to use FT2232HL with OpenOCD. Might be easier if I use my linux laptop instead of my windows desktop, less hoops to jump through.

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  • HackerBox 0044: PCB 123

    DONE!!! I spent HOURS trying to get this to work with different programmers. The one that finally worked for me was USBasp. At first I could load the bootloader and the program with it no problem, but when I got to the fuse thing, it wouldn't find it. Then I found this godsend of a webpage, https://rlogiacco.wordpress.com/2016/09/01/usbasp-...Here's the trick: If you have Windows 10, and you're using the Zadig driver thing, change the driver from the default WinUSB to the libusbK. Then you can use in command prompt.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------To find the right command, find evg2000's comment and do as he suggested by copying that line after the global variable and switch out some options. My example that I copie…

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    DONE!!! I spent HOURS trying to get this to work with different programmers. The one that finally worked for me was USBasp. At first I could load the bootloader and the program with it no problem, but when I got to the fuse thing, it wouldn't find it. Then I found this godsend of a webpage, https://rlogiacco.wordpress.com/2016/09/01/usbasp-...Here's the trick: If you have Windows 10, and you're using the Zadig driver thing, change the driver from the default WinUSB to the libusbK. Then you can use in command prompt.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------To find the right command, find evg2000's comment and do as he suggested by copying that line after the global variable and switch out some options. My example that I copied was...C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avrdude -CC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/etc/avrdude.conf -v -pattiny85 -cusbasp -Pusb -Uflash:w:C:\Users\JOHNBP~1\AppData\Local\Temp\arduino_build_253269/HBSimonBadge.ino.hex:iI took this part "-pattiny85 -cusbasp -Pusb" and added the "-U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0x5f:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m"so the command I put in command prompt was... avrdude -pattiny85 -cusbasp -Pusb -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0x5f:m -U efuse:w:0xff:mWorked like a charm.

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0048: SIMSAT
    HackerBox 0048: SIMSAT

    Built a semi-permanent one on a solderable breadboard and uses rechargeable batteries. Planning on getting smaller gps/gsm antennae so it can be more compact. Haven't fiddled with the GSM yet but I'll get there. Reminiscent of the HackerTracker box but with much better versitility. Love it.

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  • HackerBox 0048: SIMSAT

    I'm not familiar with using SIM cards for arduino IoT. I've created an account on the sora.io website and registered the chip on my consule To get the card to go from 'ready' to 'active' is it some code I put into the WeMos D1, or do I need to activate it using another device first? Thanks!

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  • HackerBox 0047: Old School

    Awesome, thanks for the reply! Learned something new about keyboards. I ordered and received a nice, compact keyboard super cheap on amazon, and it works great. I want to say I tried the avrisp mkII without success. Judging by the other comments, I think my problem was I had soldered both arduinos before trying to upload, and I don't know if that was causing the problem power wise. Everything works great now either way. I love that this project uses C to program in BASIC. BASIC was my first language I've been exposed to, and C/C++ is the one I want to learn, This is definitely one of my favorite boxes. Thanks for finding and putting it together.

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  • HackerBox 0047: Old School

    Some of the pins on the VGA connector might not exactly fit the board easily. You may need to bend some of the first couple of rows of pins forward slightly before inserting in order to fit. Don't try to brute force it too hard.

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  • HackerBox 0047: Old School

    Made it. Absolutely love this box. There's a special place in my heart for old school computing. The VGA and BASIC portion seems to work, but I won't be able to fully test until the ps/2 keyboard I ordered arrives. Would have been handy to have a USB-to-PS/2 adapter instead of the thumb drive. On the arduino IDE, make sure to set the "ATmega328P (old bootloader)" for the processor and I used the "ArduinoISP" for the programmer, and it took several tries to upload.

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  • HackerBox 0045: Spark Net

    I finally got it to work! I connected the servo to the vcc output on the digispark, despite the warning, to make it more compact for demonstration purposes on the video. It worked fine at that range, though I'm sure the farther apart they are, the more the interference interferes. Badge was fun and simple. Glad to see an nRF24L01 in use, I bought 10 on eBay a long time ago really cheap and never learned to use them, now I have a starting point to play with them.

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  • HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze

    I'm thinking about plugging the pan-tilt thing into the ESP32-CAM as well, and maybe make it track faces or something. I don't have a clue on how to do that yet, but maybe I'll figure it out. Fun, quick build, and the capacitor kit is super handy. Didn't even know there was an ESP32-CAM until tonight. Thanks!

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  • HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze

    I'm thinking about plugging the pan-tilt thing into the ESP32-CAM as well, and maybe make it track faces or something. I don't have a clue on how to do that yet, but maybe I'll figure it out. Fun, quick build, and the capacitor kit is super handy. Didn't even know there was an ESP32-CAM until tonight. Thanks!Upload New Images, Videos, and Files

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  • HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze

    I'm thinking about plugging the pan-tilt thing into the ESP32-CAM as well, and maybe make it track faces or something. I don't have a clue on how to do that yet, but maybe I'll figure it out. Fun, quick build, and the capacitor kit is super handy. Didn't even know there was an ESP32-CAM until tonight. Thanks.

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  • Warning, make sure the transistors are inserted with the flat side up, meaning if you fold the transistors upward, the flat side will be against the board. Don't try to match the shape with the silkscreen on the back. I know they mentioned that already, but it's worth reiterating. If you find all the LEDs lit up at once and not blinking, that's probably your problem.

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  • HackerBox 0042: Worlds of WiFi

    Quick and easy build, esp if you read Earthwormchris' comment about the esp8266-oled-ssd1306 library before starting. The arduino sketch is very simple and gives a good idea of some basic 8266 wifi commmands. I really recommend you read through it and try to understand what going on under the hood. Instead of the male header, I opted to add a female header to the back since the badge is raised by the battery pack already. Trying to think of some fun uses for it, maybe reprogram to use it as a deauth detector or add an extra button to select between channels and monitor packet activity?

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  • This website gave a pretty good explanation on why newer prolific drivers don't work, and has a fairly good fix for it. I emailed them to see if they'd be willing to share the source code to that nifty patch, I'll share if they reply.http://www.ifamilysoftware.com/news37.html

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  • I got a white screen too. Then I connected the usb to my computer, copied the appropriate bootloader file into the device, double clicked the restart button, and whammo, it worked.

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  • HackerBox 0041: CircuitPython

    Made it, worked great. Wrote a little game for it using the arcade block language thing, still worked great. Added the adafruit backpack with a 3.7v li-ion batt as shown matching the batt >batt/G>G/USB>5v. Will not boot. Will not flash any leds. Blank white LCD. Double clicking does nothing. Cannot power from pins or USB, despite desoldering the backpack. All solder joints look good. Ordered a J-Link EDU to see if I can't reflash the bootloader.Never used a SWD, If anyone has any tips or really good resources (book or online) where I can learn to debug flash using the serial pins and a J-Link, I'd love to dive in and learn even if it doesn't fix it. Adafruit had a little discussion post of using the J-Link on an Itsy-like board that was a little lacking for my tastes.

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  • Everything worked great, but be careful about adding the battery backpack. I got both the backpack and battery from adafruit, and wired it as shown matching batt>batt, G>G, USB>5v, and it fried my board when I plugged the battery in.

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  • I think my pic is defective, it's garbled until I tap the side of pin 4 on the pic with something metallic, or I cycle the power several times super fast, then it'll show as planned. it's weird

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0039: Level Up
    HackerBox 0039: Level Up

    I added a 18650 battery with a Li-Ion USB charger so I can hang it and only plug it in to charge when necessary. Fun project!

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  • If the target device isn't found, then it may be an alignment problem. Mine would show the target, but say the most voltage available from usb was 4.625. When i switched to the 4.625 from the 4.875, it worked fine.

    One problem I'm having is persistance on the screen. After loading the chip, if I shut the power off then turn it back on, the screen only has black blocks on the top. But after doing that, if I quickly cycle the power to just the PIC on and off real fast, the "HackerBoxes/HackLife" will show up. Also, after it boots up and is blank, just by touching pin 4 with something metallic causes it to start working correctly. I imagine it needs a delay added somewhere to cause it to run appropriately. Any ideas?

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  • I found that my Pickit3 wouldn't program the pic unless I changed the power setting to 4.625 instead of 4.875. After doing that, it seems to work just fine

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0039: Level Up
    HackerBox 0039: Level Up

    I didn't have a spare atx power supply per se, but I did have my trusty homemade bench power supply i made from hackerbox #0017. Everything powered up!

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  • HackerBox 0038: TeknoDactyl

    Love it. Thanks!

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  • That stinks, the one I bought last week didn't have it. Maybe it's certain lots, and busier stores get newer inventory faster. Though mine wasn't galaga, it was digdug, but exact same brand and model.

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  • On my version (Digdug):IOB1=PacmanIOB2=Mappy; IOB2&3=MappyIOB3=GalagaIOB1&3=GalaxianIOB1&2=DigDugIOB1&2&3= Rolling thunder; IOB0=Rolling ThunderNote, the left IOB pads all connect to a common ground, so you can hook up just 4 wires total, one wire to each of the three right pads, and one ground wire on any one of the left pads (doesn't matter which)

    is the resin blob directly in the center or off to one side? The solder points on my board were off to one side under one of the black foam spacers that you can peel off

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  • HackerBox 0038: TeknoDactyl

    Worked great until I decided to rework the soldering and fried the chip with my heat gun. I'll be more careful next time

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  • 4 Game Micro Player Galaga

    Dip switches are definitely the way to go

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  • Actually, I'm thinking of drawing lines from each old data to the new instead of pixels, might make a better image

    Actually, in retrospect I'm thinking of drawing lines from each old coordinates to the new instead of pixels, might make an easier to read waveform. Except this library doesn't show me a clear cut way to make diagonal lines. could always use graphics.h and hope it doesn't conflict

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  • Yes, but I missed it at first. It's ssd1306_putPixel(). thanks

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  • It never fails that I screw something up in every project. My bad eyes read 50mm instead of 59mm for the driver element. Don't have enough to replace. Is it possible to use an 18awg for only that element and still work?

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  • HackerBoxes 0020: Summer Camp

    So the one on the left was my first build. I'm not good at SMD soldering, and kind of learned along the way. Broke the tracer so I had to run a wire from IO5 to the 2nd LED.As you can see, the second one came out much nicer. Practice makes perfect. I'm plan on keeping the second, better, badge as is for a momento and see what other kinds of fun things I can do on the broken badge.

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  • My Windows 10 refuses to recognize the USB to TTL module you gave me. My device manager shows the error flag, and when I open it, it says:"This device cannot start. (Code 10). A device which does not exist was specified."So I went to the prolific website and downloaded the driver manually, still no improvement. The IDE never even recognizes the port, it stays grayed out. The reset button trick doesn't work if my IDE can't recognize the device to begin with...The Prolific website warns against counterfeit PL2303 chips, and also states the PL2303HXA chips are no longer supported since windows 7. Is it possible I have a counterfeit or outdated chip on my usb-ttl board? And anyone else have the same problem that they've solved? Thanks!BTW, built the alarm clock form the kit a…

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    My Windows 10 refuses to recognize the USB to TTL module you gave me. My device manager shows the error flag, and when I open it, it says:"This device cannot start. (Code 10). A device which does not exist was specified."So I went to the prolific website and downloaded the driver manually, still no improvement. The IDE never even recognizes the port, it stays grayed out. The reset button trick doesn't work if my IDE can't recognize the device to begin with...The Prolific website warns against counterfeit PL2303 chips, and also states the PL2303HXA chips are no longer supported since windows 7. Is it possible I have a counterfeit or outdated chip on my usb-ttl board? And anyone else have the same problem that they've solved? Thanks!BTW, built the alarm clock form the kit and it works great!

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  • I know the instructions say use a CR1220 for the battery backup on the diy clock kit, but I couldn't find it. I used a CR 1216 from walmart that does just fine.Fun fact I just learned: The batteries are named by their dimensions, so...CR1216 = D 12mm x H 1.6mmCR1220 = 12x2CR1620 = 16x2CR2025 = 20x2.5etc...So usually if the voltage matches, and the diameter matches, button cell holders sometimes will take a variety of heights.CR1612 might sometimes fit similar to a CR1616 or CR1620 as long as the spring reaches and provides enough tension

    I know the instructions say use a CR1220 for the battery backup on the diy clock kit, but I couldn't find it locally at 3am. Instead I used a CR 1216 from walmart that does just fine.Fun fact I just learned: The batteries are named by their dimensions, so...CR1216 = D 12mm x H 1.6mmCR1220 = 12x2CR1620 = 16x2CR2025 = 20x2.5etc...So usually if the voltage matches, and the diameter matches, button cell holders sometimes will take a variety of heights.CR1612 might sometimes fit similar to a CR1616 or CR1620 as long as the spring reaches and provides enough tension

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  • HackerBoxes 0021: Hacker Tracker

    So decided to wire the modules on a perfboard. I know it doesn't look pretty and clean like soldering traces, but it's better than the breadboard and it still works. I had an issue originally with GPS not loading, both on the breadboard and this, but I simply deleted the first txt file and let it make another one and it worked perfectly. So if you get the whole "No valid GPS data detected" error when you test the first time, just delete the file and retry

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  • HackerBoxes 0021: Hacker Tracker

    Made it! Using the battery bank I built from a previous HackerBox...I have one problem, when I load the gps.txt file into the online GPS Visualizer, I get the error:No valid GPS data detected!Is there a step I'm missing? I've tried renaming the gps.txt to gps.ubx and gpx.nme, I've tried different maps. I dunno what to do.

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  • About how many ml/hr should it run at for that size pot? or if it's easier, gtts/min? I don't want to overwater

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  • Thanks for the switch tip. It's such an obvious revision, yet I still overlooked it. Desoldered the jumper pins, then added a spdt switch for much easier use. Thanks!

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  • I used the female/male standoffs for the screen (it's the only thing I used them for) so I can just unplug it and swap out the LEDs then plug it back in. I chose to do that so I could access the SD card slot in the future, and also because I'm clumsy and could see that as something I'd break

    One thing I noticed is that every so often, the screen will be a blank white while still playing the music at the normal intervals, and other times It would be a blank white screen with no music. some times it works as it's supposed to. This is with using the same usb power supply as when it works okay. I don't see any loose connections or solder bridges. anyone else have the same intermittent issue?

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  • HackerBoxes 0020: Summer Camp

    Built it! Looks like it works! Reads local SSIDs. But broke a couple of the LEDs while trying to solder them (I'm mediocre at dip soldering, but horrible at smds). Ordered 15 more leds from sparkfun, hopefully I can fix it.

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      • HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus
      • HackerBoxes 0017: Power Maker
      • HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal
  • HackerBoxes 0017: Power Maker

    Not gonna lie, this one was slightly outside my comfort zone at first, but finally got the bench supply built. Worked first time no probs! This is definitely useful, and I learned a lot! Thanks for the project and experience!

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  • So, everything is soldered up, but it only stays on as long as I hold down the barrel selector, and it will go to the menu, but not let me select anything and after a few secs will go to Vext=0mV. the minute I stop pressing the barrel selector, it turns off. Also the LED will not light up, despite verifying correct polarity. Any suggestions?

    Situation Solved!Turns out it was a bad cap. ** It got easier to turn on the more I held the button down, like it was charging, but when left alone, the tester acted like it would discharge and go back to not wanting to turn on. ** I hooked my ammeter in line with the battery, and would watch the mAs used slowly and steadily drop while I held the button. Leave it alone for a while, and the mAs needed had crept up. ** Suspected it was a capacitor. Checked them both with my multimeter One would slowly move to infinite resistance like it was supposed to, the other one closest to the power supply had no resistance, meaning it wasn't working. ** Replaced the bad cap with one that came in the Modern and Analog electronics kit. After the first few tries of doing what it used to do, it now wor…

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    Situation Solved!Turns out it was a bad cap. ** It got easier to turn on the more I held the button down, like it was charging, but when left alone, the tester acted like it would discharge and go back to not wanting to turn on. ** I hooked my ammeter in line with the battery, and would watch the mAs used slowly and steadily drop while I held the button. Leave it alone for a while, and the mAs needed had crept up. ** Suspected it was a capacitor. Checked them both with my multimeter One would slowly move to infinite resistance like it was supposed to, the other one closest to the power supply had no resistance, meaning it wasn't working. ** Replaced the bad cap with one that came in the Modern and Analog electronics kit. After the first few tries of doing what it used to do, it now works exactly like it should, with both the dc from a wall plug transformer, and with a regular 9v battery!!!So if the LED is in the right spot, but still having trouble, check the capacitors next with your multimeter, if the ohms aren't rising from 0.00 - O.L, you've got a bad cap. Now to 3d print a case!

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  • HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus

    this is the same one where the 9012 transistor gets hot. Verified 9v with the dc power supply with multimeter. Not sure if transistors can short internally, or if a bad capacitor can cause this unsteady power. It acts as if batteries were dying, even though it's from a steady dc power suppl. I also noticed that after frequent attempts to keep it on, it works better and better each time, eventually staying on and working normally through all the menu options, though once power is disconnected or I leave it alone for a while, it's back to not doing anything and have to go through the same repetitive process shown in the videoI'd love to hear any ideas on how to troubleshoot this.

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  • HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus

    this is the same one where the 9012 transistor gets a little warm. Verified 9v with the dc power supply with multimeter. Not sure if transistors can short internally, or if a bad capacitor can cause this unsteady power. It acts as if batteries were dead, even though it's from a steady power supply I'd love to hear any ideas on how to troubleshoot this.

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  • HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus

    Only works when I hold it down, sometimes it will stay on for a second or two, but otherwise turns off. I originally desoldered, resoldered the LED because I read people had problems with the polarity, but I had it right the first time. There are no shorts or bridges that I can see, is that a capacitor issue? Also, when using a 9v battery rather than the barrel connector, the screen is dimmer, and never goes to menu. I'm out of ideas

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  • Does anything special need to be done to use a raspberry pie as an oscilloscope? Are can you use it like you would any laptop running linux?

    Does anything special need to be done to use a raspberry pie as an oscilloscope? Or can you use it like you would any laptop running linux?

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  • I'm having trouble with the MeArm. It will randomly jerk all the way back, sometimes it'll move down but not up, can't get the base servo to work at all on blynk despite trying all the digital pins. Not familiar with the NodeMCU, but it won't connect when on the shield. Is there a way to connect to it using ssh or something to see what it's actually doing? Thanks!

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  • Don't you have to have an active ham radio license to operate on 2m/70cm?

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