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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze6 weeks ago
    HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze

    I'm thinking about plugging the pan-tilt thing into the ESP32-CAM as well, and maybe make it track faces or something. I don't have a clue on how to do that yet, but maybe I'll figure it out. Fun, quick build, and the capacitor kit is super handy. Didn't even know there was an ESP32-CAM until tonight. Thanks!

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze6 weeks ago
    HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze

    I'm thinking about plugging the pan-tilt thing into the ESP32-CAM as well, and maybe make it track faces or something. I don't have a clue on how to do that yet, but maybe I'll figure it out. Fun, quick build, and the capacitor kit is super handy. Didn't even know there was an ESP32-CAM until tonight. Thanks!Upload New Images, Videos, and Files

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze6 weeks ago
    HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze

    I'm thinking about plugging the pan-tilt thing into the ESP32-CAM as well, and maybe make it track faces or something. I don't have a clue on how to do that yet, but maybe I'll figure it out. Fun, quick build, and the capacitor kit is super handy. Didn't even know there was an ESP32-CAM until tonight. Thanks.

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze6 weeks ago
    HackerBox 0043: Falken's Maze

    Warning, make sure the transistors are inserted with the flat side up, meaning if you fold the transistors upward, the flat side will be against the board. Don't try to match the shape with the silkscreen on the back. I know they mentioned that already, but it's worth reiterating. If you find all the LEDs lit up at once and not blinking, that's probably your problem.

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0042: Worlds of WiFi2 months ago
    HackerBox 0042: Worlds of WiFi

    Quick and easy build, esp if you read Earthwormchris' comment about the esp8266-oled-ssd1306 library before starting. The arduino sketch is very simple and gives a good idea of some basic 8266 wifi commmands. I really recommend you read through it and try to understand what going on under the hood. Instead of the male header, I opted to add a female header to the back since the badge is raised by the battery pack already. Trying to think of some fun uses for it, maybe reprogram to use it as a deauth detector or add an extra button to select between channels and monitor packet activity?

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0039: Level Up3 months ago
    HackerBox 0039: Level Up

    This website gave a pretty good explanation on why newer prolific drivers don't work, and has a fairly good fix for it. I emailed them to see if they'd be willing to share the source code to that nifty patch, I'll share if they reply.http://www.ifamilysoftware.com/news37.html

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0041: CircuitPython3 months ago
    HackerBox 0041: CircuitPython

    I got a white screen too. Then I connected the usb to my computer, copied the appropriate bootloader file into the device, double clicked the restart button, and whammo, it worked.

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0041: CircuitPython3 months ago
    HackerBox 0041: CircuitPython

    Made it, worked great. Wrote a little game for it using the arcade block language thing, still worked great. Added the adafruit backpack with a 3.7v li-ion batt as shown matching the batt >batt/G>G/USB>5v. Will not boot. Will not flash any leds. Blank white LCD. Double clicking does nothing. Cannot power from pins or USB, despite desoldering the backpack. All solder joints look good. Ordered a J-Link EDU to see if I can't reflash the bootloader.Never used a SWD, If anyone has any tips or really good resources (book or online) where I can learn to debug flash using the serial pins and a J-Link, I'd love to dive in and learn even if it doesn't fix it. Adafruit had a little discussion post of using the J-Link on an Itsy-like board that was a little lacking for my tastes.

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0041: CircuitPython3 months ago
    HackerBox 0041: CircuitPython

    Everything worked great, but be careful about adding the battery backpack. I got both the backpack and battery from adafruit, and wired it as shown matching batt>batt, G>G, USB>5v, and it fried my board when I plugged the battery in.

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0040: PIC of Destiny3 months ago
    HackerBox 0040: PIC of Destiny

    I think my pic is defective, it's garbled until I tap the side of pin 4 on the pic with something metallic, or I cycle the power several times super fast, then it'll show as planned. it's weird

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0039: Level Up4 months ago
    HackerBox 0039: Level Up

    I added a 18650 battery with a Li-Ion USB charger so I can hang it and only plug it in to charge when necessary. Fun project!

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0040: PIC of Destiny4 months ago
    HackerBox 0040: PIC of Destiny

    One problem I'm having is persistance on the screen. After loading the chip, if I shut the power off then turn it back on, the screen only has black blocks on the top. But after doing that, if I quickly cycle the power to just the PIC on and off real fast, the "HackerBoxes/HackLife" will show up. Also, after it boots up and is blank, just by touching pin 4 with something metallic causes it to start working correctly. I imagine it needs a delay added somewhere to cause it to run appropriately. Any ideas?

    If the target device isn't found, then it may be an alignment problem. Mine would show the target, but say the most voltage available from usb was 4.625. When i switched to the 4.625 from the 4.875, it worked fine.

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0040: PIC of Destiny4 months ago
    HackerBox 0040: PIC of Destiny

    I found that my Pickit3 wouldn't program the pic unless I changed the power setting to 4.625 instead of 4.875. After doing that, it seems to work just fine

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0039: Level Up5 months ago
    HackerBox 0039: Level Up

    I didn't have a spare atx power supply per se, but I did have my trusty homemade bench power supply i made from hackerbox #0017. Everything powered up!

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0038: TeknoDactyl5 months ago
    HackerBox 0038: TeknoDactyl

    Love it. Thanks!

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  • seaprimate commented on EdgeBeyond's instructable 4 Game Micro Player Galaga5 months ago
    4 Game Micro Player Galaga

    That stinks, the one I bought last week didn't have it. Maybe it's certain lots, and busier stores get newer inventory faster. Though mine wasn't galaga, it was digdug, but exact same brand and model.

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  • seaprimate commented on EdgeBeyond's instructable 4 Game Micro Player Galaga6 months ago
    4 Game Micro Player Galaga

    is the resin blob directly in the center or off to one side? The solder points on my board were off to one side under one of the black foam spacers that you can peel off

    On my version (Digdug):IOB1=PacmanIOB2=Mappy; IOB2&3=MappyIOB3=GalagaIOB1&3=GalaxianIOB1&2=DigDugIOB1&2&3= Rolling thunder; IOB0=Rolling ThunderNote, the left IOB pads all connect to a common ground, so you can hook up just 4 wires total, one wire to each of the three right pads, and one ground wire on any one of the left pads (doesn't matter which)

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBox 0038: TeknoDactyl6 months ago
    HackerBox 0038: TeknoDactyl

    Worked great until I decided to rework the soldering and fried the chip with my heat gun. I'll be more careful next time

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  • seaprimate made the instructable 4 Game Micro Player Galaga6 months ago
    4 Game Micro Player Galaga

    Dip switches are definitely the way to go

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0026: BioSense1 year ago
    HackerBox 0026: BioSense

    Actually, in retrospect I'm thinking of drawing lines from each old coordinates to the new instead of pixels, might make an easier to read waveform. Except this library doesn't show me a clear cut way to make diagonal lines. could always use graphics.h and hope it doesn't conflict

    Actually, I'm thinking of drawing lines from each old data to the new instead of pixels, might make a better image

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0026: BioSense1 year ago
    HackerBox 0026: BioSense

    Yes, but I missed it at first. It's ssd1306_putPixel(). thanks

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0023: Digital Airwaves1 year ago
    HackerBox 0023: Digital Airwaves

    It never fails that I screw something up in every project. My bad eyes read 50mm instead of 59mm for the driver element. Don't have enough to replace. Is it possible to use an 18awg for only that element and still work?

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBoxes 0020: Summer Camp1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0020: Summer Camp

    So the one on the left was my first build. I'm not good at SMD soldering, and kind of learned along the way. Broke the tracer so I had to run a wire from IO5 to the 2nd LED.As you can see, the second one came out much nicer. Practice makes perfect. I'm plan on keeping the second, better, badge as is for a momento and see what other kinds of fun things I can do on the broken badge.

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork

    My Windows 10 refuses to recognize the USB to TTL module you gave me. My device manager shows the error flag, and when I open it, it says:"This device cannot start. (Code 10). A device which does not exist was specified."So I went to the prolific website and downloaded the driver manually, still no improvement. The IDE never even recognizes the port, it stays grayed out. The reset button trick doesn't work if my IDE can't recognize the device to begin with...The Prolific website warns against counterfeit PL2303 chips, and also states the PL2303HXA chips are no longer supported since windows 7. Is it possible I have a counterfeit or outdated chip on my usb-ttl board? And anyone else have the same problem that they've solved? Thanks!BTW, built the alarm clock form the kit...

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    My Windows 10 refuses to recognize the USB to TTL module you gave me. My device manager shows the error flag, and when I open it, it says:"This device cannot start. (Code 10). A device which does not exist was specified."So I went to the prolific website and downloaded the driver manually, still no improvement. The IDE never even recognizes the port, it stays grayed out. The reset button trick doesn't work if my IDE can't recognize the device to begin with...The Prolific website warns against counterfeit PL2303 chips, and also states the PL2303HXA chips are no longer supported since windows 7. Is it possible I have a counterfeit or outdated chip on my usb-ttl board? And anyone else have the same problem that they've solved? Thanks!BTW, built the alarm clock form the kit and it works great!

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork

    I know the instructions say use a CR1220 for the battery backup on the diy clock kit, but I couldn't find it. I used a CR 1216 from walmart that does just fine.Fun fact I just learned: The batteries are named by their dimensions, so...CR1216 = D 12mm x H 1.6mmCR1220 = 12x2CR1620 = 16x2CR2025 = 20x2.5etc...So usually if the voltage matches, and the diameter matches, button cell holders sometimes will take a variety of heights.CR1612 might sometimes fit similar to a CR1616 or CR1620 as long as the spring reaches and provides enough tension

    I know the instructions say use a CR1220 for the battery backup on the diy clock kit, but I couldn't find it locally at 3am. Instead I used a CR 1216 from walmart that does just fine.Fun fact I just learned: The batteries are named by their dimensions, so...CR1216 = D 12mm x H 1.6mmCR1220 = 12x2CR1620 = 16x2CR2025 = 20x2.5etc...So usually if the voltage matches, and the diameter matches, button cell holders sometimes will take a variety of heights.CR1612 might sometimes fit similar to a CR1616 or CR1620 as long as the spring reaches and provides enough tension

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBoxes 0021: Hacker Tracker1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0021: Hacker Tracker

    So decided to wire the modules on a perfboard. I know it doesn't look pretty and clean like soldering traces, but it's better than the breadboard and it still works. I had an issue originally with GPS not loading, both on the breadboard and this, but I simply deleted the first txt file and let it make another one and it worked perfectly. So if you get the whole "No valid GPS data detected" error when you test the first time, just delete the file and retry

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBoxes 0021: Hacker Tracker1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0021: Hacker Tracker

    Made it! Using the battery bank I built from a previous HackerBox...I have one problem, when I load the gps.txt file into the online GPS Visualizer, I get the error:No valid GPS data detected!Is there a step I'm missing? I've tried renaming the gps.txt to gps.ubx and gpx.nme, I've tried different maps. I dunno what to do.

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  • Portable IV Drip Watering System

    About how many ml/hr should it run at for that size pot? or if it's easier, gtts/min? I don't want to overwater

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0020: Summer Camp2 years ago
    HackerBoxes 0020: Summer Camp

    Thanks for the switch tip. It's such an obvious revision, yet I still overlooked it. Desoldered the jumper pins, then added a spdt switch for much easier use. Thanks!

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0020: Summer Camp2 years ago
    HackerBoxes 0020: Summer Camp

    I used the female/male standoffs for the screen (it's the only thing I used them for) so I can just unplug it and swap out the LEDs then plug it back in. I chose to do that so I could access the SD card slot in the future, and also because I'm clumsy and could see that as something I'd break

    One thing I noticed is that every so often, the screen will be a blank white while still playing the music at the normal intervals, and other times It would be a blank white screen with no music. some times it works as it's supposed to. This is with using the same usb power supply as when it works okay. I don't see any loose connections or solder bridges. anyone else have the same intermittent issue?

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBoxes 0020: Summer Camp2 years ago
    HackerBoxes 0020: Summer Camp

    Built it! Looks like it works! Reads local SSIDs. But broke a couple of the LEDs while trying to solder them (I'm mediocre at dip soldering, but horrible at smds). Ordered 15 more leds from sparkfun, hopefully I can fix it.

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  • seaprimate followed HackerBoxes2 years ago
      • HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus
      • HackerBoxes 0017: Power Maker
      • HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal
  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBoxes 0017: Power Maker2 years ago
    HackerBoxes 0017: Power Maker

    Not gonna lie, this one was slightly outside my comfort zone at first, but finally got the bench supply built. Worked first time no probs! This is definitely useful, and I learned a lot! Thanks for the project and experience!

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus2 years ago
    HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus

    Situation Solved!Turns out it was a bad cap. ** It got easier to turn on the more I held the button down, like it was charging, but when left alone, the tester acted like it would discharge and go back to not wanting to turn on. ** I hooked my ammeter in line with the battery, and would watch the mAs used slowly and steadily drop while I held the button. Leave it alone for a while, and the mAs needed had crept up. ** Suspected it was a capacitor. Checked them both with my multimeter One would slowly move to infinite resistance like it was supposed to, the other one closest to the power supply had no resistance, meaning it wasn't working. ** Replaced the bad cap with one that came in the Modern and Analog electronics kit. After the first few tries of doing what it used to do, it now w...

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    Situation Solved!Turns out it was a bad cap. ** It got easier to turn on the more I held the button down, like it was charging, but when left alone, the tester acted like it would discharge and go back to not wanting to turn on. ** I hooked my ammeter in line with the battery, and would watch the mAs used slowly and steadily drop while I held the button. Leave it alone for a while, and the mAs needed had crept up. ** Suspected it was a capacitor. Checked them both with my multimeter One would slowly move to infinite resistance like it was supposed to, the other one closest to the power supply had no resistance, meaning it wasn't working. ** Replaced the bad cap with one that came in the Modern and Analog electronics kit. After the first few tries of doing what it used to do, it now works exactly like it should, with both the dc from a wall plug transformer, and with a regular 9v battery!!!So if the LED is in the right spot, but still having trouble, check the capacitors next with your multimeter, if the ohms aren't rising from 0.00 - O.L, you've got a bad cap. Now to 3d print a case!

    So, everything is soldered up, but it only stays on as long as I hold down the barrel selector, and it will go to the menu, but not let me select anything and after a few secs will go to Vext=0mV. the minute I stop pressing the barrel selector, it turns off. Also the LED will not light up, despite verifying correct polarity. Any suggestions?

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus2 years ago
    HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus

    this is the same one where the 9012 transistor gets hot. Verified 9v with the dc power supply with multimeter. Not sure if transistors can short internally, or if a bad capacitor can cause this unsteady power. It acts as if batteries were dying, even though it's from a steady dc power suppl. I also noticed that after frequent attempts to keep it on, it works better and better each time, eventually staying on and working normally through all the menu options, though once power is disconnected or I leave it alone for a while, it's back to not doing anything and have to go through the same repetitive process shown in the videoI'd love to hear any ideas on how to troubleshoot this.

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus2 years ago
    HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus

    this is the same one where the 9012 transistor gets a little warm. Verified 9v with the dc power supply with multimeter. Not sure if transistors can short internally, or if a bad capacitor can cause this unsteady power. It acts as if batteries were dead, even though it's from a steady power supply I'd love to hear any ideas on how to troubleshoot this.

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  • seaprimate made the instructable HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus2 years ago
    HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus

    Only works when I hold it down, sometimes it will stay on for a second or two, but otherwise turns off. I originally desoldered, resoldered the LED because I read people had problems with the polarity, but I had it right the first time. There are no shorts or bridges that I can see, is that a capacitor issue? Also, when using a 9v battery rather than the barrel connector, the screen is dimmer, and never goes to menu. I'm out of ideas

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus2 years ago
    HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus

    Does anything special need to be done to use a raspberry pie as an oscilloscope? Are can you use it like you would any laptop running linux?

    Does anything special need to be done to use a raspberry pie as an oscilloscope? Or can you use it like you would any laptop running linux?

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  • seaprimate commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes Robotics Workshop2 years ago
    HackerBoxes Robotics Workshop

    I'm having trouble with the MeArm. It will randomly jerk all the way back, sometimes it'll move down but not up, can't get the base servo to work at all on blynk despite trying all the digital pins. Not familiar with the NodeMCU, but it won't connect when on the shield. Is there a way to connect to it using ssh or something to see what it's actually doing? Thanks!

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  • HackerBoxes 0003: Amateur Radio, Arduino Nano, Satellites, Packet, APRS

    Don't you have to have an active ham radio license to operate on 2m/70cm?

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