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Agreed, it has its dangers, hence the numerous warnings and suggestions for alterations incorporating safety features.My aim here was to make something that did not require additional equipment in my van such as a pump or propane heater. The 12V heating element was small, cheap (E5) and easy to build in. I carry the power pack with the compressor all the time.Compressed air is a common way to pressurize water:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hozelock-Ltd-4140A0000-Po... for example, albeit that these are specially designed containers. I most likely should build a V2 with a specific pressure vessel but for now, this is good enough for me.If anyone has any safety concerns that they don't feel are acceptable, then please don't build an exact replica of what is here. If there are suggestions for impr…
Agreed, it has its dangers, hence the numerous warnings and suggestions for alterations incorporating safety features.My aim here was to make something that did not require additional equipment in my van such as a pump or propane heater. The 12V heating element was small, cheap (E5) and easy to build in. I carry the power pack with the compressor all the time.Compressed air is a common way to pressurize water:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hozelock-Ltd-4140A0000-Po... for example, albeit that these are specially designed containers. I most likely should build a V2 with a specific pressure vessel but for now, this is good enough for me.If anyone has any safety concerns that they don't feel are acceptable, then please don't build an exact replica of what is here. If there are suggestions for improvements, I would love to hear/see them.
I can't say it's been an issue, I put a large washer on the inside, behind the retaining nut and it seems to be fine. It was actually the only place that didn't leak when the pressure went too high. I take your point though, the walls are quite this.
What's handy is that you can heat and pressurize it then disconnect from the power pack. I reckon the roof of a car or 4x4 would be perfect to get the required height to shower under, its only a little over 20kg when full so its easy to move.
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Hi, I use these 2 all the time:https://www.instructables.com/Zip-Ties-Drain-Sn...https://www.instructables.com/Zip-Tie-Zip-Tie-D...The dispenser has saved me major hassle and nearly falling off a ladder many times
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Thanks ElectroFrank & GarethR5, I was not aware that this was the case (goes to show every day is a school day and why instructables is cool). I have studied this further and think I have a grasp of the concept. For clarity, I tested the current draw on the battery while retarding the chuck by hand, the drill was close to but not stalled.The Power supply is rated for 10A. I have used the drill several times now with the last time running in several 5X100mm screws into timber, the drill did not flinch, no heating, overloading or stalling.Thanks for your comments.
Not in this battery type, as this was a cheap drill and a bit of an experiment I wasn't too worried if I damaged it. My "Good" tools are a set of Metabo LTX tools, in this set I have an 18V hammer drill, a 600nm 1/2 impact gun, a 100mm angle grinder and a worklight, all using the same battery type. I may adapt one of the older batteries and put it on the other power supply outlet. This would be great especially for the grinder as it can drain a full 5.2Ah battery in 25mins under load
No, the charger is not designed to put out the kind of current required while in operation. Batteries are charged at a much lower rate, hence a three or four hour charging time to get 45-60 mins run time.
Certainly would but there is an added advantage to a tool that can switch from mains (continuous running) to battery (mobile applications). Also there was an element of experimentation and learning too. All of the parts were in my workshop anyway, waiting for a purpose, and there is still a second output on the power supply to all additional accessories.
I have seen that done, but as I said the mains allows indefinite run time, then I can switch to the battery and walk away with the same tool.
No, power is calculated using P = V * I (Power = Voltage * Current) so I = P/V. The power required by the motor would only vary with load (higher load = higher current draw) I just held the chuck in my hand while testing to provide a simulation of load. I worked the example for calculating the new current requirement in the steps. The only downside is that the increased voltage will cause the motor to heat but again as I said I am not going to be drilling concrete walls, this is really just for small item drilling or as a screw gun.
Folks, thank you for the comments and compliments. If I can be of any more help please ask. Also if you could please click in the top right corner and vote for me in the "power supply" or "before and after", I would be very grateful
I have also had that experience in the past but there are methods for flashing the memory on the little PCB's if they are in the battery pack
It depends on where you are looking, the main line is full duplex, the spy is half, this means that the spy cannot effect change on the target device but can see all the responses to the master pc's requests.
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Nice work, I've used these in the past, there is also a way to set them up to look at the half duplex in each direction. I don't need it here and I only have one serial port to do it on this machine. Maybe with a brainbox or something similar I will run at monitoring both directions.
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Oh yeah, I agree, life is so much easier when you can just divide by 10
I will admit that I am fairly good at sizing bolts by eye, however, I do sometimes work with non-metric bolts not necessarily standard imperial but often BSP when working with pneumatics so this is a handy sanity check
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It certainly is
Only thing I can think of is if they are the curly ones like a birds nest, then I would put them into a flush fitting and use them as a holder for a small plant pot. It would look a little quirky
Its a zen garden, you rake the stones and loose yourself in thought...
Okay, maybe I should have gone into more detail here. The material is quite soft so I was able to trim the back off completely with my knife but left the thread as this is part of the charm. I pulled the circuit board out with the pliers and this left the filaments supported on a glass tube. I carefully smashed out the glass tube with a screw driver and let everything fall into the bulb. I then pulled it all out with the pliers and shook out any remaining shards. I hope that explains it.
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I'm glad you like it. Post a picture if you make one and I'll send you a 3 month pro membership.
I have made 4 of these now and it has really tidied up the back of my van
Glad you like it. I hadn't thought of a big one for Lego...
Yes I was thinking that if it were made with some dark wood and some nice hinges, it would make a nice jewelry box for my wife
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Thanks, it is really handy. I'm not a fan of breakaways either but the fact that you have a knife, a wood saw and a hack saw all in one does appeal to me.
No problem, you could also make a bootable USB with Linux, there are some really good diagnostic tools available.
No problem man, glad you like it
Great idea. It would also stick to the side of the pillar drill keeping your bits in a convenient location
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