ssashton

You can just skip it to be honest, I only added it because I have the bits.

Is the distance reading greatly affected by the material?I'm trying to find a way to make the dust shoe (brush) on my CNC router automatically adjust to the height of the material underneath. However, I may sometimes cut MDF, plywood, plastics etc..

I had the same problem on one of my instructables. I found if the file name has been used by someone else before, it will not show the correct image. Give the files a unique name before uploading.

I notice that some of the parts STL files such as the wheels and pin do not look the same as the images in Instructables. Do I still follow your parts.pdf on how many of each part to print?

Hi,I think that will be okay. I would recommend 15V and 3A or more.

The important bit is the voltage really. More current is basically better, but it won't make much difference considering the power handling of the speakers.I buy al ot of stuff on eBay. I searched 15V PSU and got this right away - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15V-5A-FOR-TOSHIBA-EQUIUM-A100-147-A100-ADAPTER-CHARGER-PSU-LEAD-POWER-CORD-UK/22365701945

This is great, thanks so much for sharing the photo!

Awesome I think you're right. GxAmp is not a speaker manufacturer so I'm sure they are the same Hi-Vi (SwanSpeaker) drivers.

I asked I'd they can offer a better price for shipping and Dominique said customers would need to email for a price depending on their specific local.

People sometimes add felt or cloth around a speaker baffle to reduce diffraction effects, reporting clearer details in the sound.'Speaker baffle diffraction' is the key term.

A front baffle that uses the 'Skyline Diffusor' pattern might look nice too, I think. www.rpgeurope.com/products/product/skyline.htmlOnline calculator www.mh-audio.nl/Acoustics/DiffusorCalculator.asp

I must have missed it out by accident when I categorised the links. I'll add it now.

I often use Madisound but they dont advertise stock. I can ask if they would consider stocking, or perhaps have some in a dark corner somewhere.

There is limited space inside after all the parts are added, I think Pi will be too big. I have seen some boards that can connect with Amazon Web Service to access voice control. I have not used them.

Oh bummer! You can also find them at Solen.ca

I did consider that, but unfortunately I don't think it is practical. The amp boards need minimum 8V and will work better with more voltage (dynamic head-room). This battery pack gives about 15V. 12V from a car outlet would be okay too.It might be possible to use a boost converter to increase the voltage from 5V to 12V for the amps but the very dynamic nature of the power draw would probably not suit such a circuit.However you can charge the battery pack from USB! Each battery is only 3.7V so individually they can be charged on USB and chargers do exist.

... perhaps adding a 'super capacitor' after the boost converter would store enough charge to smooth out dynamic power draw.

That's a compliment and a half! Thanks very much!

Thank you!

You need to use the bluetooth module as the star ground point, then the noise will be reduced.

Right the Fusion file is there so it can be altered. I would suggest keeping the 45 degree angle for the stereo tweeters though.

That is very easy, will you build it? If you share your build I can maybe make a new DSP profile to match it.

Thank you! As you like growing things you might spot the Korean Pumpkin growing in the background :)

I have some CSR8675 modules, but they will not switch to the aptX codec, they are stuck using SBC. Does anybody have an idea what's going on? I wonder if there is a firmware setting I need to enable? (P.S. the problem is not my phone, I can use aptX on other receivers)Thanks!

Just be careful not to go above about 2.4v. I went to the end of the potentiometer while machine was on and it damaged my PCB.

I also changed rset resistors which might have caused a problem. So go close, but not fully 2.5v