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What is the purpose of the compressed air? You didn't mention that in the text.

instructables butchers the include commands. can you list the code on pastebin and link to it?

1/4" to 1/2" works fine. I got them built at a local metal shop.

Absolutely. This works with any battery storage system.

Easily. Use a shunt, and you can monitor hundreds of amps. Search my arduinotronics blog for the word shunt

Greentrust@gmail.com

You should still have a resistor on the LED to protect the pins on the ESP8266. LED Resistors are for current limiting, not voltage dropping per se

You should still have a resistor on the LED to protect the pins on the ESP8266. LED Resistors are for current limiting, not voltage dropping per se.

Excellent. Thank you!

not hacked. expired. it's gone.

Outputting grid voltage means a synchronous design (fixed rpm / Hz), far beyond the goals and parameters of this design. magnets on the tips? you would need hundreds of tips and coils .....

greentrust@gmail.com

Two smaller awg wires are easier to wind than one thicker one.

The certification document from berkey clearly specifies virus and bacteria removal levels. This, by definition, and certification, is a purifier.

Don't let them overheat, and they won't lose magnetism.

We use a diversion control. Basically, when the batteries hit a certain voltage, a load is attached, like water heating elements. The reason this is done is that if you were to disconnect the wind turbine, like you do with solar, it would self destruct.

I love your instructable. Thanks for liking mine! Following your instructables now.

Well Done!

Compiles fine for me. Please recheck your sketch.

It could, but VAWT's are so disappointing.

Yes It will. It will work with any 120v load that matches the specs of the SSR used.

Why did you use an Arduino? Why not the esp8266 native programmed with the Arduino IDE?

Thank you for asking. This unit is designed for off grid applications, and uses a battery bank and inverter to make 120/240vac.

overheat? the magnets are held in place by superglue and epoxy.

if the relay module can triger with 5v and 20ma, no changes necessary. If it has a higher coil voltage or current needs, then you will need a transistor to trigger the relay.

That's a relay, not a SSR, but yes, it would work.

52 is stronger.

I don't have a LED version of this.

I've never used a Galileo, but I'm sure my code won't work on it without modifications. This was designed for a Arduino UNO.

did you load the Time library? "Time Library available at http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_Time.html"

The solar panel only produces what the load asks for (up to the limit of the panel and sun input). no load, no production.

what you measure depends on where you place your current sensor. place the current sensor in series with the solar panel, you then measure current drawn from the panel.

very possible.greentrust@gmail.com

No, you can't. That's a scam.

About half was spent on the alternator, the other half on the tower. I'm not interested in bike wheel motors.

The IRF series is not an appropriate match to an arduino, as it can't fully open at load with a 5v input. the IRL series are more appropriate.

I use a voltage divider to create a 2.5v centerline for measurement. Those 12bit ADC's also are amplifiers, so your amplifier seems redundant. I'd love to see how you would keep a running ah/wh measurement.

The project works as is in my setup, not buggy at all. Celsius is already in the code, just remove the conversion to F. I use the serial lcd at http://arduinotronics.blogspot.com/2014/02/sainsmart-i2c-lcd.html

coil height (depth) has nothing to do with magnet height. only the gap between the magnet and the coil is important. keep is as small as possible without interference. a 1" wide x 2" long x 1/2" deep magnet needs a coil that has a 1" x 2" whole in the center so that it only swipes one side of the coil at a time. The thicker (depth) the coil, the less flux on the further side of the coil. so pack them tight and thin as possible.

the magent should just fit through the oening in the coil.

The magnet should just fit the open center of the coil.

No idea.

I answered that already. dual 12g, 72 turns, for 48v, 41 amps or so. Depends on wind gathering capability (wind speed and blade size). http://www.green-trust.org/windpowercalc/

Maybe you can use I2S output instead of the analog?https://www.adafruit.com/products/3006

try 72 turns of dual 12awg wire. You need 18 magnets (9 for each plate), and 9 coils.

the number of turns per coil decides the output voltage. The gauge of the wire determines how much current you can pull, providing your blasdes can catch enough wind to turn at load.

IIRC, it was about a quart of epoxy.

Can your coils handle that much current? The higher the grade magnet, the more magnetic flux.

Add device tree to /boot/config.txt to disable the Raspberry Pi 3 bluetooth.sudo nano /boot/config.txtAdd at the end of the filedtoverlay=pi3-miniuart-btExit the editor saving your changes and then:sudo reboot