stoppi71

Hi! It isn't as complicated as you might think. It's all about the energie per second, which is emitted in the form of electromagnetic radiation (light) by a heated body with the temperature T.

Thank's, Marcell

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Hello! Thanks for your kind words. This is exactly my intention and motivation, to build instruments or make (famous) physics experiments with cheap and easy available materials.Unfortunately I have the feeling, that instructables doesn't really honor the efforts of such complex experiments. This especially when I look at the finalists of some "science or STEM contests"...Have you seen my homepage? It's full of such physics stuff.

Hello! The ultrasonic-head has two cables, pulse-in and signal-out. The pulse-in has to be connected with the piezo in my schematics, the signal out with the Input (in) of the receiver. The C5 sockets are located at "piezo" and "in" to connect the ultrasonic-head with the emitter and receiver...For the operational amplifiers you need a negative voltage (-9V). I use two 9V-switching power supplies and connect them in series. The middle point is Ground, and the other two potentials are +9V and -9V...Good luck.

Hi! Sorry for the late answer. I bought mine from china via ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-10pcs-single-side-pcb-p...It's the 9x15cm model... Good luck with your project, cheers stoppi

Hello! Sorry for the late answer. I've added the circuit in step 1. There you can see the potentiometer and the additional resistor (5 Ohms) to balance the bridge. Good luck, stoppi

The MLX90614 has just 1 pixel and the field of view of this one pixel is f.e. 5° for the DCI model.The MLX90640 has 32x24 = 768 pixel. If the field of view for the whole sensor is 110°x75°, then one single pixel has a field of view of 110/32 = 3,4°/pixel (or 75/24 = 3.1°/pixel). Therefore one pixel of the MLX90640 has a smaller FOV (= higher resolution) than the 5° FOV version of the MLX90614...

Hi!Because you want higher resolution I'd recommend the DCI-type. But the offer from banggood is much too expensive. I'd buy one from ebay like in the link for about 60 USD. I bought my MLX90614ESF-DCI in 2012 for 60 Euro. But I inform you that for 60 USD you nearly get a MLX90640-sensor, which has a 32x24 pixel array. Take a look at my instructables: https://www.instructables.com/Infrared-Thermal-Imaging-Camera-With-MLX90640-and-/

Hello! The last charcter is for the field of view. A = Standard (about 100°), C = 35° FOV, F = 10° FOV and I = 5° FOV.Therefore I wouldn't recommend the BAA, because it has the standard FOV without any focusing lens. The BCC has 35° FOV. It depends which resolution you want to have. For a sharp image a smaller FOV is better. Good luck, stoppi

Hi!I've added the arduino-programs and some further informations. Good luck ;-)

Hi!I've added the arduino-programs and some further informations. Good luck ;-)

Hello!I've added the two arduino-programs and some further informations. Good luck ;-)

Hi!I've added the arduino-programs and some further informations. Good luck ;-)

Hello!Thank's for the compliment. I've added a picture of the whole circuit in step 1: My Transmitter- and receiver-circuits. There you can see the shematics and the real circuits too. For the +100V I needed two step-up-converters. The first for delivering about +16V and the second one for the +100V.There are just 4 connections between the circuit and the arduino. Two come from the two switches to select the timebase and to stop the image, then the trigger-pulse from the arduino to the transmitter-circuit and then the analog-signals from the receiver, which are connected to analog-7 from the arduino.The display is just plugged into the arduino-due-socket ;-)Good luck, regards stoppi

Hello!I've removed the infrared-filter of the webcam to let the sensor be sensible for IR-light too. Which german page do you mean, my thread on www.mosfetkiller.de?Concerning the 35x24mm grating, why not? The size of your grating is sufficient, if you use the same 9-22mm zoom lens I did. I've mounted my grating not in a slide, but directly on the mount...

I'm afraid no but you can buy just the transducer from the Gm100. This will not be too expensive...

Hello Steve!I took a standard 320x480 display (f.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ILI948-3-5in-TFT-LCD-Col... which is directly connected with the header on one side of the Arduino Due or Mega. There are just 2 separate pins on the side which go to the "reset" and "3.3V" pins.For the digital pins D3, D4 and D4 and also for the analogpin A0 I use 90° pins (https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-single-row-male-pin-header-1x40p-40pin-2-54mm-pitch-right-angle-90-degree/271935802218?hash=item3f50a30b6a:g:oScAAOSwdxZbIdz1), because otherwise with 0°-pins the onboard display would be in the way. I've added two different programs working with two different displays (UTFT and HX8357), try both. Unfortunately it's often a problem to make the many different displays work. Good luck and if y…

Hello Steve!I took a standard 320x480 display (f.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ILI948-3-5in-TFT-LCD-Col... which is directly connected with the header on one side of the Arduino Due or Mega. There are just 2 separate pins on the side which go to the "reset" and "3.3V" pins.For the digital pins D3, D4 and D4 and also for the analogpin A0 I use 90° pins (https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-single-row-male-pin-header-1x40p-40pin-2-54mm-pitch-right-angle-90-degree/271935802218?hash=item3f50a30b6a:g:oScAAOSwdxZbIdz1), because otherwise with 0°-pins the onboard display would be in the way. I've added two different programs working with two different displays (UTFT and HX8357), try both. Unfortunately it's often a problem to make the many different displays work. Good luck and if you were successful post some results here ;-)

Hi Steve!I've added two versions of the complete program and two display-libraries (UTFT and HX8357). I hope you will get your software running. If not, post here a command once again. I'd be very interested in your results... Good luck, cheers stoppi

Hi Jamie!First my compliment, you looked very accurate... I've ordered 12 LEDs from Roithner Lasertechnik, the remaining 6 I had already at home. So no miracle or scam ;-)Good luck with your photometer, cheers Christoph (stoppi)

The spi.h file is part of the display-library. If you use a display you'll have to copy a spi-library (f.e. https://github.com/PaulStoffregen/SPI) into the directory .../Arduino/libraries/...In your case I'd delete all the lines with /* ... */ concerning the display and just show the values from the MLX90640. If you get reasonable values then you can add the display-code...

Hi! The code example_basicreading isn't complete. You'll have to add the line MLX90640_I2CWrite(0x33, 0x800D, 6401); in the setup-routine. Furthermore you need the line #include <Arduino.h> ; at the beginning of the file MLX90640_I2C_Driver.cpp!Please take a look at the significant changes in the code Arduino_ESP32_MLX90640.ino compared with your example_basicreading.ino! Without those changes the second code didn't work for me as well... Good luck

I use two 500 MOhms/20kV high voltage resistors in series like these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hochspannungswiderstand-20kV-470-MegaOhm-high-voltage-resistor/281026497195?hash=item416e7c0aab:g:LykAAOSwDN1USHg~

Hi! You could try it with dry ice or an ultrasonic-atomizer...

This idea is quite old and very cheap...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-Levitation-Pen-P...

Hi! Yes, they are. You get DC from the output of the multiplier...

;-)

Thank's, but this instructable hasn't been accepted for the clasroom science contest. The people who decide this must be totally unsuited, because on the other hand a 3d-printed multi-function tool for screwing nuts has been accepted...

Hi! If you have designed a tool for example to measure lengths very exactly then I could understand your point of view. But sorry a tool for opening nuts?Take a look at my instructables: https://www.instructables.com/member/stoppi71/inst...There you can find some projects, which REALLY deal with science (in classroom)...

Could someone tell me why this instructable has been accepted in the classroom science contest? It has absolutely nothing to do with classroom science...

Congratulation... But where is my name stoppi in the header? ;-)

Hi! Thank's for sharing your weather-station and thank's for the software-changes. Maybe I'm going to insert the actual values at the top of the display too like you did ;-)

Thank's for showing your weather-station and for the information concerning an other display. I know, sometimes it isn't very simple to get your display working ;-)

Hi! Thank's for the tip. Right now I'm working on a smaller wind-tunnel especially to visualize the air flow: https://forum.mosfetkiller.de/viewtopic.php?f=6&p=...There I use 5mm plastic straws ;-)

Hi randofo!Thank's for the response. I teach mathematics, physics and practical physics at a high school (from 11 to 18 years) in austria ;-)

Hi! You are looking for a command to print data on the display? I use the command "myGLCD.printNumF(T_max, 1, 395, 45);" for my arduino 320x480 display and "tft.print(T_max, 1);" with the ESP32 and a 320x240 SPI display... Or what do you mean?

Hi! This needs a touch display. If you want to move the whole graph to the right or left you'll have to save more/all values than just one width of the display. But of course it's possible...

Hello! Of course would it be possible to add a Co2 sensor... Then I'd have to add a fourth scale on the right y-axis. There are Co2 sensors which can be read out with an arduino.

Hi! Have you used those two programs, one (Arduino_Lasermikroskop_Processing) for the arduino and the other (Lasermikroskop_processing.pde) for the processing itself? Processing gets 3 values: x-position (within 0-128), y-position(within 0-128) and value from the photodiode (within 0-255)...

Thank's. Yes, I wanted to keep it simple...

Hi! You can see those LEDs I'm using for this photometer in the pictures. I've bought them from Roithner Lasertechnik, located in vienna (austria). With those LEDs I cover the whole spectrum from 400nm to 850nm well. I tried to have just 20-30nm gaps between the wavelengths. On ebay you get 850nm IR, 395nm UV and some others. But f.e. I haven't found 5mm LEDs with lambda between 660 and 760nm. For these LEDs a Laser-LED-company would be the right choice. There are some companies like Roithner Lasertechnik in the USA for sure...

thank's a lot ;-)

Hi! When you use a RGB-Led you don't have different wavelengths even when the color changes. For example when the red and green led are on, then you get a yellow but no yellow wavelength. Therefore it isn't meaningful to use a RGB-Led. Better than so many different LEDs would be a continuous spectrum, which you would get with a monochromator consisting of a white light source, a f.e. Diffraction grating and slits. But on the other hand the light intensity of each wavelength would be much lower then my different LEDs and the setup would be more complicated

Hello! You can see the way how to use it on youtube, just look at the video at the end...

Hello! To get a more laminar flow I use a lot of drinking straws. In the video I didn't use them...

Thank's...

480/128 = 3.75. You need an integer-value, therefore I took 3 with one real sensor-value and 2 interpolated...

Hi! At the moment I don't have anything for saving the data but it's not really a problem to save the data as a csv-file (comma separated values) on f.e. SD-card. For this you have to expand the spectrometer with an SD-card-arduino-shield...