stoppi71

Thanks for your comment and your story, very interesting...

Thank's. To be honest, because I'm still very curious like a child and I love physics/electronics...

Hi! Thank's. To be honest, because I'm still curious like a child and I love physics/electronics...

Hi! Then I would recommend a monostable multivibrator. When you press the button the monostable multivibrator will go high for a certain time and then automatically low. The time can be adjusted with an external resistor and capacitor. You will find a lot circuits on Google with the NE555

Thanks for the hints. I have already entered the big-contest...

Thank's. Good idea, I will do this in the next days and make an update here....

Thanks for the comment, you're welcome...

Hi! Regardless whether a physical quantity is a constant (f.e. the speed of light c or the elementary charge e of an electron) or not (f.e. the length or weight of an object), you can determine it experimentally...

Thank's Markus, you're welcome. Your piezo-energy-harvesting project is also very interesting and inspirational... Cheers stoppi

Hello Sean!Thank's for your kind words. Well, after some disappointments concerning my last contest-contributions (especially for science-contests) I don't expect anything anymore... Best regards, stoppi

Hello! I haven't done this but if I have enough time I'll try it...

Hello!You are right. The photomultiplier needs less than 1 mA because of the high resistance of the voltage divider for the dynodes. But the power supply is able to deliver higher currents.Cheers stoppi

Hi! It isn't as complicated as you might think. It's all about the energie per second, which is emitted in the form of electromagnetic radiation (light) by a heated body with the temperature T.

Hello! Thanks for your kind words. This is exactly my intention and motivation, to build instruments or make (famous) physics experiments with cheap and easy available materials.Unfortunately I have the feeling, that instructables doesn't really honor the efforts of such complex experiments. This especially when I look at the finalists of some "science or STEM contests"...Have you seen my homepage? It's full of such physics stuff.

Thank's, Marcell

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Hello! The ultrasonic-head has two cables, pulse-in and signal-out. The pulse-in has to be connected with the piezo in my schematics, the signal out with the Input (in) of the receiver. The C5 sockets are located at "piezo" and "in" to connect the ultrasonic-head with the emitter and receiver...For the operational amplifiers you need a negative voltage (-9V). I use two 9V-switching power supplies and connect them in series. The middle point is Ground, and the other two potentials are +9V and -9V...Good luck.

Hi! Sorry for the late answer. I bought mine from china via ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-10pcs-single-side-pcb-p...It's the 9x15cm model... Good luck with your project, cheers stoppi

Hello! Sorry for the late answer. I've added the circuit in step 1. There you can see the potentiometer and the additional resistor (5 Ohms) to balance the bridge. Good luck, stoppi

The MLX90614 has just 1 pixel and the field of view of this one pixel is f.e. 5° for the DCI model.The MLX90640 has 32x24 = 768 pixel. If the field of view for the whole sensor is 110°x75°, then one single pixel has a field of view of 110/32 = 3,4°/pixel (or 75/24 = 3.1°/pixel). Therefore one pixel of the MLX90640 has a smaller FOV (= higher resolution) than the 5° FOV version of the MLX90614...

Hi!Because you want higher resolution I'd recommend the DCI-type. But the offer from banggood is much too expensive. I'd buy one from ebay like in the link for about 60 USD. I bought my MLX90614ESF-DCI in 2012 for 60 Euro. But I inform you that for 60 USD you nearly get a MLX90640-sensor, which has a 32x24 pixel array. Take a look at my instructables: https://www.instructables.com/Infrared-Thermal-Imaging-Camera-With-MLX90640-and-/

Hello! The last charcter is for the field of view. A = Standard (about 100°), C = 35° FOV, F = 10° FOV and I = 5° FOV.Therefore I wouldn't recommend the BAA, because it has the standard FOV without any focusing lens. The BCC has 35° FOV. It depends which resolution you want to have. For a sharp image a smaller FOV is better. Good luck, stoppi

Hello!I've added the two arduino-programs and some further informations. Good luck ;-)

Hi!I've added the arduino-programs and some further informations. Good luck ;-)

Hi!I've added the arduino-programs and some further informations. Good luck ;-)

Hi!I've added the arduino-programs and some further informations. Good luck ;-)

Hello!Thank's for the compliment. I've added a picture of the whole circuit in step 1: My Transmitter- and receiver-circuits. There you can see the shematics and the real circuits too. For the +100V I needed two step-up-converters. The first for delivering about +16V and the second one for the +100V.There are just 4 connections between the circuit and the arduino. Two come from the two switches to select the timebase and to stop the image, then the trigger-pulse from the arduino to the transmitter-circuit and then the analog-signals from the receiver, which are connected to analog-7 from the arduino.The display is just plugged into the arduino-due-socket ;-)Good luck, regards stoppi

Hello!I've removed the infrared-filter of the webcam to let the sensor be sensible for IR-light too. Which german page do you mean, my thread on www.mosfetkiller.de?Concerning the 35x24mm grating, why not? The size of your grating is sufficient, if you use the same 9-22mm zoom lens I did. I've mounted my grating not in a slide, but directly on the mount...

I'm afraid no but you can buy just the transducer from the Gm100. This will not be too expensive...

Hello Steve!I took a standard 320x480 display (f.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ILI948-3-5in-TFT-LCD-Col... which is directly connected with the header on one side of the Arduino Due or Mega. There are just 2 separate pins on the side which go to the "reset" and "3.3V" pins.For the digital pins D3, D4 and D4 and also for the analogpin A0 I use 90° pins (https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-single-row-male-pin-header-1x40p-40pin-2-54mm-pitch-right-angle-90-degree/271935802218?hash=item3f50a30b6a:g:oScAAOSwdxZbIdz1), because otherwise with 0°-pins the onboard display would be in the way. I've added two different programs working with two different displays (UTFT and HX8357), try both. Unfortunately it's often a problem to make the many different displays work. Good luck and if y…

Hello Steve!I took a standard 320x480 display (f.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ILI948-3-5in-TFT-LCD-Col... which is directly connected with the header on one side of the Arduino Due or Mega. There are just 2 separate pins on the side which go to the "reset" and "3.3V" pins.For the digital pins D3, D4 and D4 and also for the analogpin A0 I use 90° pins (https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-single-row-male-pin-header-1x40p-40pin-2-54mm-pitch-right-angle-90-degree/271935802218?hash=item3f50a30b6a:g:oScAAOSwdxZbIdz1), because otherwise with 0°-pins the onboard display would be in the way. I've added two different programs working with two different displays (UTFT and HX8357), try both. Unfortunately it's often a problem to make the many different displays work. Good luck and if you were successful post some results here ;-)

Hi Steve!I've added two versions of the complete program and two display-libraries (UTFT and HX8357). I hope you will get your software running. If not, post here a command once again. I'd be very interested in your results... Good luck, cheers stoppi