sunyecz06

Thank you! Yes, I am working on uploading a video. The console has a small piezo speaker behind the OLED that plays sounds during gameplay.

That's a great suggestion and something I will consider for version 2.0! The protective layer is another great suggestion and something I had actually planned on doing but forgot to mention it in the instructable. Thanks!

Thank you!

My apologies. It should be fixed now!

Thanks! Yes, I would love to add this to the next iteration.

Check your Inbox. Happy making!

Unfortunately, I do not have these for sale yet. There are websites, including JLCpcb, that provide an SMD soldering service with the purchase of PCBs. All you need to do is create a BOM (bill of materials) and a CPL (components placement list). You upload those with your Gerber files and your PCBs would be shipped assembled. If you are interested, I can provide you with the Gerber files.

Thanks! In real life, the white LEDs look great in low light but they are very bright in dim/no light and their glow makes the stars look bigger or one-dimensional. If I were to remake this project, I would try and vary the distance of each white LED to the canvas with various amounts of hot glue to add some dimension. You could also solder some resistors in line to dim the lights but they may not stand out in the low light environment so it’s definitely a trade off. Thanks for your comment and I’d love to see your version if you try to make this.

The particular lipo that I used in this project can only be charged with a max rate of 450mA. I would be hesitant to use the one you linked because it charges at a max rate of 1000mA and there is not much documentation on if that is adjustable. Here's what I use: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1304 which charges at a rate of 100mA. It also has a JST connector which is convenient to easily plug in the battery.

You're right. Just added them!

That was definitely one of the main goals for this project. Thanks!

Yes. Check your inbox for a link to the files.

Thank you!

Thanks!

My favorite is the Christmas Gnome! Hope to see more instructables in the future.

Thanks for the info! I may add some insulation if I find the heating rate becomes inadequate. I do usually open the door to speed up the cool down and I really like the idea of adding a door alarm. It would be simple with the arduino already in place.

Thanks for the question! I agree it is not the most elegant design. And yes my initial thought/hope was to be able to control it digitally however, when I got inside the oven, I realized it was an electromechanical device. I did some digging and found very little documentation on that control device especially in terms of the wiring and function. I did not feel comfortable messing with AC current and the wiring to reverse engineer it. Thats how I stumbled upon controlling it mechanically by a stepper motor especially because I had the parts handy.

Thanks for the suggestion. I added a brief overview of my plans and goals of the project to the first step.

Thanks for your comment! I will definitely consider adding a heat shield around the stepper especially if I end up needing higher temperatures.

Thanks! My control sketch does step the motor based on the current temperature but I think what you're suggesting would make the make my control sketch more accurate. Definitely something to consider implementing in the future! It would be much easier to run a sketch like that now with all of the hardware in place.

As for the safety, I appreciate the concerns and will make the appropriate changes before consistent use. I agree using an SSR would have been a better option. I think I would have taken that approach if the internal wiring to the elements was more familiar to me. But I figured I could get a similar result with the motor even though it added some complexity. I know the goto function is very poor form. I used it initially to make sure I could get things working and meant to rewrite the code. I will plan to upload a more refined version to this instructable. Q1: The 0.5 seconds is the delay necessary to get the stepper to move 1 step forward. There are additional delays in between each step of the motor which control the "rate of temperature change." The heating elements are are s…

As for the safety, I appreciate the concerns and will make the appropriate changes before consistent use. I agree using an SSR would have been a better option. I think I would have taken that approach if the internal wiring to the elements was more familiar to me. But I figured I could get a similar result with the motor even though it added some complexity. I know the goto function is very poor form. I used it initially to make sure I could get things working and meant to rewrite the code. I will plan to upload a more refined version to this instructable. Q1: The 0.5 seconds is the delay necessary to get the stepper to move 1 step forward. There are additional delays in between each step of the motor which control the "rate of temperature change." The heating elements are are still controlled by the dial which are essentially always on after the program is started. Q2: I did consider PID algorithms and was in the same boat...I figured I would start with a guess and check method then move on if I wasn't making progress. It turned out that method worked pretty well. I am planning on just using this as a hobbyist tool for occasional use, but if I were to use this in more of a professional/consistent setting I would have taken a much more systematic approach.

Yeah great suggestion. I've seen a number of projects that utilize an SSR that work well. I decided to use the stepper motor approach mainly because I had had those components readily available and I did not want to alter any of the internal wiring of the toaster oven.

Thank you!

Yes it is!

That's a good thought especially since its more transparent than printer paper but I haven't tried it. I'm also not sure how easy it would be to print the image on parchment.

Thanks! I'm glad this idea gave you inspiration for future projects.