supernoodle2014

Did you try it with the files I gave you? The menuBackend Master library I gave you has been edited to add the function getRoot.

So the error I have is a that I'm missing a library called MenuBackend. This is a menu library that I can't find a download for, but I did find the github so just have to coby all the text from GitHub and set it up into a file. I'll see if I can find a LCD library that is drop in compatable with the normal library. Could you give me a schematic of your project so I know how everything's connected?

I got a zip file attached if it works properly. The folder called sketch_april20a needs to go in your sketches folder and the other two folders need to go in libraries. I compiled it and it says it worked so now it just needs to be tested.

Could I have a link to the LCD and one for the LCD controller. Is there anything else your going to add to it?

I couple questions, is this your code? why do you need to add an i2c LCD into the code? what error does it give you?

Step #2 pictures shows a 22k resister instead of the needed 200k resister.

I would try to find a different library that uses the ds3231 rtc and try to see if you can get it working. Might just be the RTClib library has a bug. I was wondering, have you set the time on the RTC yet? Could be chip doesn't start ticking until its been set. You can also try resetting the RTC, this is done by removing both power and the battery backup for 3 seconds.

I added a bare bones version of the code which does appear to be working. Which makes it only a clock, not a Swiss army clock. Try it out and if you have any problems just let me know.

Also good for fiberglass.

Good job. I wonder, would this work with a all the +data, -data, and grounds of all the drives connected together respectively, then use a switch to select which drive is powered?

What about using a heat him and/or sandpaper. Heat gun should smooth out small stuff or if necessary, sand a bit then use heatgun. Cool project btw

I know this is old, but how does the LED work if both sides are connected to ground?

Nice. You can also connect it to a battery and make it portable.

Lets start with a little exercise. Place a bowl filled with these chocolaty, creamy, melt in your mouth goodness on a table. Now sit in a chair next to the table within arms reach of the bowl. If you can count to 30 without doing anything else like playing on your phone, playing with cards, etc, then you have got pretty good self control. If you can count to 100 while staring at the chocolate then your self control is amazing and you should make a Instructable on it. (Results may vary for people who don't like chocolate or have eaten a ton of it recently.) LOL

I know old instructable, but I was wondering how much work can I have the arduino do while still checking the audio input?

Thanks a lot. I had no idea what to use or how to use it to make that green protective layer. They all look like you ordered them for $$$.

Good Job. One thing, I was taught to put the side of the conical solder head against the side of the lead then put the solder between the iron and the lead, does this make much of a difference. Great Instructable and make sure to check those solder joints, was making a led display and had one bad connection and it made it display all kinds of weirdness. Man was that a pain in the but to find afterwards.

"Aren't you a little short to be Sauron." Lol. Good job, we can all see the work you put into this. And yes, that was a Star Wars quote that I changed a little.

Super cool. now I'm hungry for ginger dead men!!

good job, just watch out where you put it so it doesn't affect other electronics.

Fear no more link is dead and cold you please fix it.

Good job. Remember that it also depends on how you print it on the print bed. Here's a link to what I'm talking about.

have you had any trouble with the 74hc595 chips burning up? or is the manufacturer data on the low side in the max amps trough the chip.

You could use six pins on your arduino or add in a shift register and have it be on pins 1-6 on the output, then just use the first six digits of the byte to control each transistor. If I understand everything correctly.

No, it is wax paper with wax only on one side.

Thanks, I'll add it in.

I only 8 nails balencing on one nail in the photos, but you said 14. Other then that good instructable and vary interesting.

This is Awesome, now i have to make one.

Good job. In the pin configuration section you have SSR+ connected to the 5v rail and d3, not sure if it's meant to be that way.

I have been wanting to build a drone for a while and your guide provides a lot of useful info. I would recommend buying a fireproof LIPO storage bag to make charging and storing you LIPO safer. thanks for the awesome Instructable and be careful with your drone.

Yes your right, hope someone didn't use those numbers in anything. : )

Good Job. Lol on the broken wire snips because i noticed it before i read the text on it.

This is awesome, keep on building. Could you make a video of how to change it from a bench to a table?

This is pretty cool, I'm going to have to try this sometime. And to all the people who say you have showed a criminal how to do a crime,the criminal doesn't care if he/she brakes the lock or door to get in, they most likely won't waste the time to pick or shim the lock. Locks are simply to keep honest people honest.

Thanks for the awesome instructable. I will use this in the future for sure.

Good job explaining the amazing uses of pool noodles. They totally should sell them all year round.

I am not curtain but I believe that 2-3 amps would be the max for this without a heat sink on the MOSFETs.Also stepper motors require a different kind of driver then this.

It simple really, just hook up a battery to a yellow led, a Ultra Violet Led, and a Infrared Led, or you can use a grow light. LOL

nice Instructable. Can you make a video to show us it in action.