taste_the_code

Hey, thanks for the feedback. If I decide on updating the article I will include it.

Thanks!

If you get the angle right and the distance, the manufacturing process is extremely precise. If I were you I would make the PCB holes a bit bigger to have some room for adjustment when mounting.

Hey, first of all, sorry for the late reply. I placed the LEDs manually by using a polar gird. A polar grid will start at a center point and have grid lines radiating outwards like rays of light. You may also look at circular arrays as I think that way you can have KiCad to place the components exactly but I haven't tried this.

Thanks! Yours looks nice as well! The resistors might add stability to the programmer but I don't think they are necessary unless the ICSP connections require them. I've never used resistors so far and never had any issues programming the ATtiny's.

Hmmm I haven't tried that if the attiny's are manufactured in different batch. All that I have came from the same batch that I purchased a while ago but I'll order some new ones and test this out.

Thanks!

Thank you for the nice words! Much appreciated.

It looks scarier than it actually is. Just start making it and search for solutions for one problem at a time. Good luck!

That is an interesting technique. I should give it a go. Thanks!

Thanks for sharing this!

That looks great! The epoxy is a great idea. Do you dip them in the epoxy or layer it on top?

It really depends on the model but usually, the middle pin is the common, and then the switch alternates between the side contacts. One side is for charging and the other is for flying.

Unfortunately not. In this case, you will need to use multiple pins.

Thanks!

I guess it should. They are the same style display.

It does! When nothing is connected in the socket, there is no current flowing so there is not enough of a voltage difference to light up the neon. Only when the switch is in the ON position, the neon lights. You can see that in the attched video.

Nice dog!

That looks awesome! Great job!Yes, I had the interference problem myself at the beginning since everything is crammed inside the box. I think that maybe using an SSR might be better to reduce the interference noise.

No, it's just a dog that I found on Unsplash.

The neon is connected from the "output" of the switch to the other uninterrupted wire, basically putting it in parallel with the recepticle.

Thank you!

Yes, a fuse is a good idea, and adding one can prevent any mishaps if the bulb is accidentally broken. The wires on the bench are just for demonstration purposes. Anyone needing a device like this should already be familiar with AC repairs and working with mains voltage, as well as the dangers associated with it. However, your suggestion is right, I'll add a warning, just in case!Thanks!

No idea what that might be....

No, you need something with relatively large wattage, like 60W or 100W. The indicator inside the light switch is a neon bulb with a typical power disipattion of around 0.06W which is to low.

If you are into metal working then I guess the best approach here would be to re-make that part entirely from metal. That way it will never break again.

Yes, I did apply low melt solder immediately at the beginning but I was afraid to use the hot air so I don't damage the buttons that were close to the encoder. Maybe heating from the back would have been easier and safer. I'll keep it in mind for next time! Thanks!

Check that under Control Panel the USB is recognized as a game controller. If not, than you will probably need some drivers.

I haven't tested it with ESP32 but I guess it should run. Make sure that the pin where you have the zero crossing detector signal is set as interrupt.

Thanks for the great words. It's a tedious job but the end result is great, especially considering the cost of a new charger.

Sorry but I don't do that.

Use a voltage divider with resistors and power the meter from that. That way you can work with the 5V at all times and your meter will be safe. Plus, the added resolution of the 5V will make the control more sensitive and precise.

Thanks!

The library is called "Rtc by Macuna". Open the Library Manager and search for "Rtc by Makuna" and install it from there.