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DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider
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1/4" at the base with a full length distal taper to just under 1/8" above the bevels at the tip.
The bar stock was .25" x 1.75" hot roll. The finished blade was a bit over 2" at the widest point by 18" long.
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I suggest that you buy some steel and supplies from http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/:)
I've handled and shot Garands and carbines, but a very long time ago, so I'm no expert. The unanimous consensus among people I trust is that it's a carbine.
This one was custom for a very large man, so the handle is about 4.75". For an average sized hand I'd go 4.25".
I have made some forges, but not the one in the pics. It's an Ellis forge with a T-Rex burner. Thank you!
Contests entered - pending approval. Thanks!
Not in this case. I'm very careful not to put copper in my forge at high temps (steel forging temps). It melts and gets in the forge lining, takes forever to burn out, and is very effective at preventing forge welding. At the first sign of green flames I would have stopped forging and cleaned the barrel.
Not in this case. I'm very careful not to put copper in my forge. At the first sign of green flames I would have stopped to clean it out.
4140 won't form a hamon. The 10 series steels and W2 are best for that. I've done quite a few of them in the past, and I'd post some pics in my response, but the Add Images button isn't working.
The barrel and stock were provided by the customer - this is what he wanted.
I used most of the section that includes the chamber. I lost a lot of steel from trying to forge weld the structures (rifling, corners, and angles) closed. And I lost some more just because it's a very difficult steel to work with - it's hard to move under the hammer and it takes a lot of heats to get any work done.
Yes, I'm glad he came to me with this!
Yeah, I hear it a lot that most people would have restored the stock - and a few that would have re-bored the barrel. This was the choice of the gun's owner. The steel chose the finish on this one. It was an absolute bear to work with. Very hard to move under the hammer and impossible to forge weld. The machined shapes and grooves in the original piece became artifacts in the blade, and a mirror finish would have accentuated them in a bad way.
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3 parts bronze powder to one part methylcellulose by volume. Carboxymethylcellulose will work. I used room temperature water - just enough to get a very thick clay - too thin and it's sticky and will sag.
3 parts bronze powder to one part methylcellulose by volume. Carboxymethylcellulose will work. I used room temperature water - just enough to get a very thick clay - too thin and it's sticky.
I buy all my blade steel at http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/The Baron ships fast and offers the best quality blade steel that money can buy.
Yeah, I know this is a pretty high level overview. I intend to do a separate Instructable for each stage as I do them on new projects. THANKS!
I intend to! Thanks!