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Thanks! I was watching some Tandy videos in their tool section and they showed a tool for cutting recesses for stitching that left the stitch tops sit flush with the surface of the leather. It looked like a good idea but then I started thinking about differences in dye uptake between the surface and the channel and wondered if that would make the channel dye more darkly. That is why I asked about the stitch channels.
Classic Leather Briefcase With Accordion Gusset
Where do you find 2mm rivets for the lock? They are really small sized for the tiny holes in the lock.
When I was researching Dr. Nim a while back I came across the video of the original prototype and I think that is where I saw that a weight had to be added to make the game play correctly. I then found your instructable and thought maybe I need a 3d printer...The filament is the default silver that comes with the Prusa machines. My machine is sort of like the original Fords, you can print anything you like so long as it is in silver.
I was thinking about reworking the trigger in F360 and adding some mass to the trigger print on the top end. I assume that your Dr. Nim works great without adding any weight? I just assembled my Prusa a couple of days ago and am brand new to printing. I printed the part with 20% infill. Could that be the problem, not enough mass in the top end because of the infill setting?