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  • A.B. Mask - for a Nurse by a Nurse

    Hi Karen, yes, as described in the instructions, the pleats should be 1/4". Folding the pleat so the notches match each other was my intention with my pattern re-draw. One of Jessica's photos shows using each notch as a fold line rather than folding the pleat so the notches match each other. I did not see that photo until just now.Apologies for any confusion! Good catch, and thanks for giving me the opportunity to clarify.To clarify:When using my pattern, fold your pleats so that the notches match each other. This follows the directions of making 1/4" pleats which ends up with the proper 1/2" shrinkage times three and a finished dimension of 3" along the sides. :)

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  • A.B. Mask - for a Nurse by a Nurse

    Yes, I re-drew the pattern using Jessica's original pattern image as a guide. One can see where she inadvertently measured 5.5" and later crossed it out, but forgot to change the number.

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  • A.B. Mask - for a Nurse by a Nurse

    The instructions that say to cut along the dotted line of the fold are just describing how to cut out the paper pattern. Do not cut the fabric along this line.

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  • A.B. Mask - for a Nurse by a Nurse

    That’s correct. The original sketch/drawing has a wrong dimension (5.5”) The redrawn pattern dimensions are correct (5”).

    Yes, my re-drawn pattern dimensions are correct. The 5.5” dimension on the original sketch/drawing was wrong.

    I posted a re-drawn pattern which should be the topmost comment. It allows anyone to draw the pattern by hand with a ruler - no printing necessary. Thank you so much for printing this for people, but that’s no longer necessary :)

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  • A.B. Mask - for a Nurse by a Nurse

    I kept the pattern but modified the construction techniques to save time. After the mask pieces are cut out, start with sewing and trimming the nose and chin angles on each individual sheet folded in half. Then place both sheets together with the sheets inside-out (printed faces facing each other) and sew three sides of the perimeter. Then flip the assembly right-side out. The raw edges will be hidden inside, like a pillowcase. Then sew the perimeter of this to close the fourth edge and lock everything in shape. Add the pleats in this same sewing run. Once you get good at making the pleats, they can just be eyeballed so I don’t even bother marking or notching them anymore. Skip binding these pleated edges, but backstitch them (or sew down, back, and down again over the whole pleated edge)…

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    I kept the pattern but modified the construction techniques to save time. After the mask pieces are cut out, start with sewing and trimming the nose and chin angles on each individual sheet folded in half. Then place both sheets together with the sheets inside-out (printed faces facing each other) and sew three sides of the perimeter. Then flip the assembly right-side out. The raw edges will be hidden inside, like a pillowcase. Then sew the perimeter of this to close the fourth edge and lock everything in shape. Add the pleats in this same sewing run. Once you get good at making the pleats, they can just be eyeballed so I don’t even bother marking or notching them anymore. Skip binding these pleated edges, but backstitch them (or sew down, back, and down again over the whole pleated edge) to add strength. Last step is to fold & sew 1.5”x40” strips into tie straps and attach them across the top and bottom edges of the mask (as binding tape) in the same sewing run. With no raw edges on the mask face portion, it is not necessary to bind the edges this way, but it adds strength and is a fast way to attach the tie straps at the same time the straps are being folded & sewn.

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