work_simple

Nice! Thanks for posting a picture!

I've had no problems with my Wen saw at all. At this point I'd estimate there is probably 100-150 hours of use. Tracking is adjustable. The cuts come out accurate when adjusted properly. It's not a fast production saw, but for a home user it's fantastic.

Thanks! I'm glad you found the instructable useful. Please post a picture when you're done.

Nice job! Glad you enjoyed the instructable!

It sucks when pliers are disorganized. Standing them on edge makes far more sense. I should have done it a long time ago. I know a guy who uses a dish rack to organize circular saw and table saw blades.

Indeed, there are probably many various racks out there that would work with some modification. Pfred2 commented about modifying a dish rack. A little creativity goes a long way. And yeah, knowing when one is missing is definitely nice, I agree 100%.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!

Glad you enjoyed it! It's not the sturdiest of racks TBH, but it doesn't need to be either. It's not actually holding any weight from above, just keeping the pliers from tipping over. For $1 you really can't go wrong!

Thanks! So glad you enjoyed this instructable! I'd love to see some pictures when you get a chance.

Thanks for the positive feedback, seamster! I appreciate your kind words. I might add a t-track to the table for some more options, but so far it has worked perfectly for what I need.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!

So, you've moved up to a commercially made clamp? Lots of folks like them and use them, and they certainly have their place in the shop.If I may critique the welded one for a second... This is why I weld on the back side when creating these clamps/jigs. With the welds on the front the clamp/jig looses the ability to be used on the inside corner because the welds are in the way. Now only being useful on the outside poses a limit and a caution. The limit being that it may only be used on projects longer than its length. And the caution being because the inside of the angle iron itself is being used, the radius inside the angle iron itself must be considered when using the clamp/jig. This can lead to inaccuracies if the radius gets in the way while clamping material down. Also, a brace…

So, you've moved up to a commercially made clamp? Lots of folks like them and use them, and they certainly have their place in the shop.If I may critique the welded one for a second... This is why I weld on the back side when creating these clamps/jigs. With the welds on the front the clamp/jig looses the ability to be used on the inside corner because the welds are in the way. Now only being useful on the outside poses a limit and a caution. The limit being that it may only be used on projects longer than its length. And the caution being because the inside of the angle iron itself is being used, the radius inside the angle iron itself must be considered when using the clamp/jig. This can lead to inaccuracies if the radius gets in the way while clamping material down. Also, a brace at the bottom is a must. If clamping outside/beyond the one brace near the top, this can/will bend the angle iron and again lead to inaccurate clamping.Sorry if I'm being overly critical, I do think it's cool that you've made one. But if moving onto the clamp from the jig (as it's welded) I can see why the clamp would be more accurate. I have a (cheap) commercially made clamp. And the caution there would be to watch the shifting of material as the acme screw is applied. I've seen the very expensive $100+ clamps and they are indeed awesome, but few could justify the price tag. The clamp/jig as made in the steps as outlined in this instructable will produce 99% accurate work. But careful attention has to be taken in how the clamp/jig is constructed.

Ah, okay. Thanks for clarifying! For my own purposes since I'm only making carts, shelves and such where 100% accuracy isn't imperative, I simply tack and check with squares and weld it up when I'm happy with the placement of the post/leg. However, I have thought about this problem and what would I do if I were needing (or wanting) greater accuracy. And thinking about it now I should just make some of these. But I digress... Basically the solution would be to build a fixture designed specifically to be used on an inside corner. One could use the clamp/jig in this instructable to weld up a simply "A" shape at 90* that could then be used as a way to hold the inside corner of a project. See here for inspiration: https://www.instructables.com/Corner-Clamps/Two of these "…

Ah, okay. Thanks for clarifying! For my own purposes since I'm only making carts, shelves and such where 100% accuracy isn't imperative, I simply tack and check with squares and weld it up when I'm happy with the placement of the post/leg. However, I have thought about this problem and what would I do if I were needing (or wanting) greater accuracy. And thinking about it now I should just make some of these. But I digress... Basically the solution would be to build a fixture designed specifically to be used on an inside corner. One could use the clamp/jig in this instructable to weld up a simply "A" shape at 90* that could then be used as a way to hold the inside corner of a project. See here for inspiration: https://www.instructables.com/Corner-Clamps/Two of these "A" inside corner fixtures along with the clamp/jig outlined in this instructable could be used create the perfectly held post. That's a lot of clamping! But hey, if the need is there, I get it! One comment on the clamp/jig in the photograph. It's hard to tell but it looks to me like the mouth or opening is way too large. If the spacing were tightened down to 1/2" or 3/4" then a post/leg would line up more naturally. Also, along with that the flat support brace needs to be closed in too. The flat brace needs to be far up enough in the corner so that the post/leg can sit down on top of it. Doing so will keep the three pieces of metal on the same plane. Unless of course, the jig was being modified for shelving in which there was a desire for the post/leg to pass through. Hope this helps!

I've seen plastic speed squares, but never a plastic framing square. Though it probably exists and certainly would be easier to drill. I don't think the material matters so much, tbh. In this case, the dollar store framing square is stamped steel. It's thin enough that it doesn't take a whole lot to drill.

Thanks, DIY! I agree. It would be such a simple thing for a manufacturer to do and would add a lot of versatility to the framing square. I forgot about using it to draw circles too, so added that information this morning. Anyway, thankfully this is a very easy tool to make. I'd estimate maybe 15, 20, 30 mins tops depending on the tools available. Glad you enjoyed it!

They are very handy to have around, for sure! I use them for woodworking projects too. Of course angles always should be checked and rechecked, but generally speaking the jig takes probably a good 98-99% out of fussing with loose clamps and a table. Also, a machinist could clean up any variation with a mill, but for my needs (and I suspect most here) a 98-99% accuracy works just fine. I hope you find them useful in your shop! Thanks for the comment!

Glad you enjoyed the instructable!

Thanks for viewing!

Thanks, seamster! They are quite handy to have around the shop. I tend to make one when I have the appropriate scrap lying around. Different sizes are nice too of course.

Thank you, deepsquid! Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks, DIY Hacks and How Tos! Glad you enjoyed the ible. I wish I could say the design is mine, but this has been around forever. It's a great way to use up scrap in a useful way. I hear you on indestructible!

Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad the instructable gave you some ideas. Please post a picture of the one you build when you get a chance.