Some of the compost tumblers make it look like a pain to remove the finished compost. Any tips or advice about this?
Question by billybobdungbeetle | last reply
In every article etc i see about composting, the end product is a rich dark soil like substance.I inherited a 3 tier rubber or plastic composter.Appropriate garbage goes in the top where the redworms dwell.The end product is liquid.Is it the nature of the type of composter I have that the result is liquid or am I doing something wrong?
Question by billito | last reply
Is there some genius out there who can devise a hand (or foot) powered leaf and twig chopper? I'm groing old cutting this stuff by hand with scissors or shears. It must be rugged, and able to chew up wet stuff as well as dry, brittle or stringy. Mother Earth needs you!!
Question by ClaireW01 | last reply
Hello,I wanted to start my own backyard composting and I looked at a instructable on how to build a tumbling composter and I finally secured a 55 gallon barrel that I could potentially. I was told from a co-worker that the contents of the barrel were only alcohol fuel. Will I be able to use this barrel as my compost barrel and be safe from using the compost in my garden, lawn, flower, etc? I did a bit of research and it seems to be safe as some people have used composting to create alcohol fuel with a distillery. Just want to be absolutely sure and safe before I do anything.Thank you!
Question by Zaxious | last reply
I was just curious if you could compost fruit that has been floating around in an alcoholic drink. I wasn't sure if it would kill off the bacteria in the compost heap or not.
Question by RadBear | last reply
I just want to know if it would be appropriate or just repeating an instructable
Question by 9.6 Volts | last reply
I am using a non food grade barrel that had a aqueous coating in it. It has been scrubed and cleaned very well. There appears not to have any residue left in it. What is the difference between food grade and non food grade?
(1) I live in new york and its pretty humid and it rains occasionally. would it help to put a tarp over it to keep out the rain? Because ive heard that it (the rain) can drain nutrients into the soil. (2) would the compost decompose the pallets?. (3) would it help to staple tarp or plastic to the out side? (the compost bin is the pallet compost bin by kootsman)
Question by Greenguyh2o | last reply
Since saltpetre is sold as stump remover because it accelerates natural decomposition, would it be good for a compost heap for the same reasons?
Question by BOOM5601 | last reply
In about a month I will have some worm castings. I already have flower beds and vegetables in my yards (tomatos, okra, zuccinni, rosemary, and basil). When I have the castings, do I just lay them on top of the soil or should I dig up some holes and put the castings underground?
Question by cinderbelle | last reply
Question by brentmcdaniel07 | last reply
I raise composting nightcrawlers for fishing bait and worm castings. I need to make a simple shaking machine with 3 different sizes of screens. The first screen with keep all of the larger pieces of dirt and twigs from the compost and a few of the larger worms. The second screen of a smaller mesh will keep most of the worms and a little of the unfinished compost. The third and final screen will let through only the worm castings and the worm cocoons. This machine should hold at least a five gallon bucket of compost at a time and the worms have already turned any large particles of garbage; leaves; dirt etc into small parts, but picking these worms out a few at a time is a very time consuming process and I have a lot of 50 gallon barrells to go through.
Question by zimginny | last reply
I have 2 horses and have composted their manure since I've had them (5 years) but have always had to shovel it into a small wagon and spread it with the shovel and rake. It gets pretty tiring. I thought maybe a wheel driven type? I'm not very mechanical, but if someone can help me out with this I would be sooooooo greatful!
Question by sparky1856 | last reply
My main hobby is gardening. I eat from my garden, 450 m^2, year round, and even have lots of extra space to play around, grow flowers or experiment. I see many new (US) instructables with raised beds, inspired by a popular book (Batholomeuw). It claims to have higher yields, and lower requirements of water, and work. In Europe, we are unfamiliar with this method (unless for elderly or handicapped people). It raises a few questions, but only to be answered by folks having experience in BOTH traditional methods AND the raised bed garden: In normal circumstances, do the claims of this method uphold? Adding the soil mix: 1/3 vermiculite (=clay), 1/3 peat and 1/3 compost. What kind of compost? Where does it come from? About the yearly renewing of the soil|:- again, where does the compost come from? For compost making: Is the household excess sufficient, or does extra material has to be added?? Why are these questions important? Gardening in the traditional way is nearly carbon neutral, unless all physical work is mechanized. But (the concept of) soil ecology is very precious; just covering it and putting this mix over it almost alarms me!
Question by BobS | last reply
I have a cabin and would like to know if I need a septic tank if I use only a shower and a sink, I looking for a cheaper alternative. My toilet is a composting toilet so it donesn't need water.
Question by DELETED_superchargedtoaster | last reply
The cabin came with an outhouse when we bought it, but now, 8 years later, we have to do something soon. I've looked into composting toilets, but I'm not convinced that $1,000+ later that the mechanisms will be easy to maintain. We want it to be as no-fuss as possible. We leave no heat on in the winter, and our water is a long distance down 4+ flights of stairs and to the back of the property. We pump it up (recent) or hand carry it in buckets. Can we assume that if the current outhouse is working well with the soil that a new outhouse about 6 feet to the right of it will work well, too?
Question by cabingal | last reply
We have a lovely big patch of land that we plan to turn into a veggie patch. Unfortunately, we've suffered with trespassing & vandalism with much of the work we've done so far. We are lucky enough to have inherited a polytunnel frame (a large hooped structure to be covered with plastic for use as a commercial greenhouse) but our last attempt to get a cover on it ended 10 days later when a knife was taken to it. We also get stones thrown over as well as actual trespassing. We'd like to get cracking again this year (warm weather is best for working with the plastic cover) & are concentrating on getting an earth bank & fence installed beforehand, to minimise any issues. We'll be planting a hedge along the top of the bank, but that will take a while to grow. This work will also involve doing some terracing, so the ground level at the boundary will be about 1-1.5m/3-5ft higher than the main area. It is also on the northern (sunny) edge, and the whole boundary is about 25m/45ft long. We are located out on the west coast of Wales, so have a temperate climate & moderate wind, but can't construct anything that might upset the officials as we're in a National Park. Saying that, the boundary can only be seen from either our land or from our vandals', sorry, neighbours' land. We're not thinking of bear traps or anything, just wondering if anybody has any suggestions for things that would be useful & practical that might also cause an added obstruction. The instructable on the Double-Decker Drum Composter inspired me to think about other possible options, though I'm not sure whether composters would suit the sunny location. Please note that this will be a veggie patch, so nothing that might cause issues with growing and (more importantly) eating our own produce. And no, nothing can be proved but would only cause more hassle even if it could, so we just have to find other, less confrontational, ways to work around these things :) All (sensible) ideas are very welcome!
Question by hv3333 | last reply
A 16'x16'x16', 256-square foot, A-frame cabin on an elevated 3' concrete paver floating DekBlock foundation with a 3'x 6'8" front flush door, one rear 48"x 48"horizontal slider window, and another upper 24"x 24" horizontal slider window for the sleeping loft.I'm thinking that one of those standard U.S. Stove designs might provide just a little too much heat for my needs up in the Copper River Basin region of ALASKA's rural backcountry. Who knows? What are your suggestions for the above described "habitat"? Where can I find the best deals for my 256-square foot space? (Heating/ventilation-wise, we're speaking of subzero temperatures and heavy snowfall, so, I don't believe that "opening a window" is a practical solution for me if it gets too hot and smokey inside my A-frame.) Plus, I've done the HEATING ESTIMATE for the A-frame I'm going to build and the numbers come out to about a 620,000 btuh (heat loss) for the new dimensions I'm finally settling on: 16'x16'x16' or 256sq.ft. This calculation is for -50 degrees F with cold floor, ceiling, and glass surfaces taken into account. (Insulation isn't a factor this early in the design.) "Wow!" I thought at first. "A 620,000 btuh HEAT LOSS! I reckon you can never have too much stove even for an A-frame design." (Being that A-frame cabins retain heat so well, and that my sleeping loft may get really HOT in the Winter, this was a preliminary concern.) Foundation:(4) 8"- diameter cardboard cylindrical concrete forms for pin-point piers;(4) 84" reinforcement rods for pin-point concrete forms;(16) Bricks for base of footing;(24) Layout stakes;(8) 5' batter boards;(1) Spool of wire for joining the two 14" reinforcement rods for each footing base;(1) Spool of line for marking building layout lines;(?) Bags of cement;(?) Bags of gravel;(?) Bags of sand...*A few questions about the amount of concrete needed for the four footings and the four concrete piers: "How much concrete will be needed for four 8"-deep concrete footings poured into four 16"-diameter, 44"-deep holes with each containing four bricks and the four reinforcement rod supports? How much concrete will be needed to fill four 8"-diameter pin-point concrete pier forms to an estimated height of about 80"-inches? How many total bags of cement, gravel and sand (aggregate) will my foundation require? Most importantly, how much will it all cost?"A-Frame Structural Triangle (Theoretical Dimensions):Sides = 16'Base = 16'Angles opposite sides = 60 degreesAngle opposite base = 60 degreesArea = 110.85125168441 sq. ft.Perimeter = 48 ft.Framing:(2) 2"x 10"x 16' girders;(12) 2"x 6"x 12' rafters;(6) 2"x 6"x 8' joists;(4) 2"x 4"x 4' collar beams;(10) 4'x 4' plywood sheets for subflooring;(2) 16' framing braces for structural support against wind damage;(?) 3200-square feet of roof/wall sheathing material for exterior surface areas...*A few questions about the amount of roof/wall sheathing material needed to cover the 3200-square foot exterior surface area: "How much exterior sheathing will I need? How much will it cost? I understand that metal sheathing is preferred in the Copper River Basin region for its snow-shedding ability, so, given everything I've just said, what are my options for the A-frame I recently designed?"My total approach to this whole subsistence lifestyle (i.e. living off the land within a small, confined space) is probably all wrong. I understand that I might need to change my complete "mindset" and adopt a sort of NAUTICAL (or MARITIME) theme with my decor, furnishings and appliances.Since I'm really getting into boats anyway (my one chosen option for escaping the bitterly harsh winters of ALASKA's COPPER RIVER BASIN if all else fails), I feel that marine stoves, composting toilets, and an overall nautical aspect in the "finish work" might help me cope since sailboat cabins tend to be tiny, and I may need to transplant a lot of what I have to my seagoing vessel, "Vera Essie".www.geocities.com/wduncanbinns
Question by Herr VOLKMAR | last reply