How can i make a small forge. Different materials, ideas, or structures. Oh and no gas forges. Well... mabye.
Question by tevers94 | last reply
Hello to everyone who took the time to read this update/list. So I have not forgotten about my promise to upload the Solidworks files and cutting plans. However that will be taking a backseat to finals until summer break. I will however go ahead and list off the items finished, in progress, on hold, or currently only in Solidworks form. Finished -6in Axe: 3lb head on an oak clad 1/4in steel flat bar about 20in long total -3in Tomahawk/Axe: 1.25lb head on a para cord wrapped 1/4in steel flat bar about 20in long total -27in BoneSplitter: 3.2lb aluminium reinforced steel construction. -18in BoneCracker: 2lb aluminium reinforced steel construction. -18in All steel BoneCracker: 3.5lb steel reinforced steel construction. More square handle and better center of balance than previous version In progress -10in Bearded Axe: 3.25lb head. To be mounted on oak clad 1/4in steel flat bar handles 18in, and 30in long. -10in blade Pugio: Model made of mild steel for practice and training. Needs to have bevels, and fullers ground plus handle and guard mounted. -8in blade Pugio: Model made of mild steel for practice and training. Needs to have concave edges, bevels, and fullers ground plus and guard mounted. On hold -14in Blade tester: Simple test bed modeled after BoneSplitter to test viability of various band saw blades(Metal and Wood cutting) for use as cutting edge for mild steel blade carriers. On hold due to the band saw blades being too hard to drill through. Only existing as Solidworks files --27in Revised BoneSplitter: 4.5lb Aluminium reinforced steel construction. Better center of mass and more square handle than MY previous version. --37in blade Bastard sword: Aluminium reinforced steel construction. Should be very close in terms of center of balance and stiffness when compared to its hardened steel companions. --20in blade Stacked steel Gladius: Twin riveted steel support plates with detoothed metal cutting bands saw blade used for striking edges. --blade Hispaniensis Gladius: Single piece of metal for the blade. --blade Cinquedea: Single piece of metal for blade. Multi fuller blade. --8in blade Pugio curved: Same as other 8in Pugio except for the convex curved dagger tip --14in blade Spear from Fullmetal Alchemist: May upload the variant of this in which the "wings" are separate pieces of metal. --3.25in square Warhammer: 8.5lb head Assembled from 13 1/4in steel plates pinned together. Front is covered in 3/8in spikes poking through a steel striking face to prevent separation of the plates. Back end is a 4in spike. --5.25 square Warhammer: 16.25lb head Assembled from 21 1/4in steel plates pinned together. Front is covered in 3/8in spikes poking through a steel striking face to prevent separation of the plates. Back end is a 4in spike. --Straight edged War Axe: 7lb head Inspired by Ironclad Industries' Riftclaw. Made from 7 1/4in steel plates pinned together. I am aware that the riveted and pinned construction of these items makes them inherently less durable and less corrosion resistant than single piece construction. However I am a college student who is working with mostly scraps and whatever has to be purchased. Since mild steel thick enough to carve the Warhammers or War Axe is not common scrap material around the college's machine shop the only way to economically create them is to use stacked plate construction. As for the BoneSplitter, BoneCracker, and Bastard sword the stacked plate construction is used to both reduce the weight of the item and stiffen it at the same time.
Topic by tytiger33
I am pretty new, wait, very new to this, ok im a straight complete noob and i only know what i have seen (not much, but i do know how to scavenge anything and modd things to make it work...) and i was just wondering what would be the best way to make a medium sized forge and what to use to fuel it.
Topic by FunkNattidelic | last reply
Looking for thoughts, questions, criticisms, and followers for this project: http://pariahcycle.blogspot.com/
Topic by pariahcycle
When I got a new can of propane, for my torch, it was $9. At wally world, it was $4. Then, when I went to get a can of cooking stove propane from the camping department (at wal-mart), I notice that the tank was $3. After getting home, I noticed that the threads were exactly the same, and that the torch head would screw onto the neck of the "camp propane" bottle. So, as anyone would do, I fired it up, and it worked! Of course, it would shut off it you tilted it too far, but what the heck! $3 for a can of propane. But then I thought "Why is this so cheap, and why haven't I heard of this before? Is ther something wrong with this? Will I blow myself up?!?!?! Anyway, I'm all for saving $2, or $6 (depending on where I go), so is this actually a reasonable way of saving money?So what I'm asking:-Is this way safe? I haven't fired it up since, in case it did something bad.-Why is it so cheap to but it that way, and so expensive to buy regular tanks?-Has anyone else done this?If anyone can help, it'd be appreciated.
Topic by John Smith | last reply
I am working on a completely home made armor set for sword combat. Actually, it will be mixed with a few modern firearms such as .44 Magnum revolvers, 9mm handguns and .45 pistols. It is better that you DON'T know what I am doing. Trust me. So the question, Is a steel kitchen pot bulletproof?
Question by bendog38 | last reply
Hello everybody, I was thinking the other day about converting my cheap-a$$ chinese trike to be electric and amphibious... the idea being to have a floor of metal plate and metal plates all around so that it could float, and perhaps foldable outriggers... gas pedal, motorcycle wheels. 2 motors for the wheels, and another to power the prop. what do you guys think of the idea? would it work? thanks!
Question by beijing2013 | last reply
Hey, I'm sure you've read some of my other foundry questions and comments, so here's another. I have been using this with charcoal briquettes for quite some time now, and finally built a burner to convert to propane. I made my first melt with it earlier, and I don't think I'll ever switch back, no matter how high propane gets (price). I built a burner according to the instructions here, and it turned out fine, except that the flame won't leave the burner tube completely. It fits pretty well in my helium tank foundry/furnace (a .gif on how I made it is below), heating it up to melting temps on full blast in probably <10 minutes. It is SO much cleaner, easier to make multiple melts( no refilling charcoal), and is alot quicker in starting and finishing a melt (no setting up blowers, positioning charcoal, and that stuff).It was (at first) an easy choice to go with charcoal (cheap, could even be made for free), but after a couple melts, the fun got replaced by work, and I stopped melting metal. I discovered propane, built my burner for $35 total(including regulator) and was up and running within a day. ~$20 for a refill on propane when I run out is COMPLETELY worth it. Sorry if this seems kinda persuasive, but I am trying to help either people on this site, or one of the countless wanderers from Google.Some pictures of my testing (not my burning setup) setup are below.
Topic by John Smith | last reply
I just forged a brand new knife (my first time) and i was wondering how to remove small surface marks and imperfections? Ive never worked with metal before.
Question by trf | last reply
I have been tinkering with an idea on how to make a motion sensor flamethrower, I start with an "Air Wick" i-motion then i am trying to add a light or igniter attachmentl. I made a prototype but then it lit on fire and then exploded so im working on an idea that wont have the metal burn. If you have any ideas on how to make this work better comment or just send me a message!
Topic by camdog7d | last reply
Would Nylon or Polypropene make a good torsion spring?Or would some kind of metal wire work better? By "better" i mean is able to produce the most force or is able to pack the most force into a 5/8"hole (thats the biggest drill bit i have).
Question by meburnfire | last reply
Ive tried to change my screen name to not be my god given one but i cannot get it to reach a spot that allows me to do so in instructables
Question by bobby sissom | last reply
I'm working on a Halloween prop (though, with what little time I already have, it looks as if I will have to use it next year), a part of which is supposed to be a metal torsion spring. I am at a loss for ideas that would look real. I suppose whatever it is, I could paint it silver. Any help would be appreciated!
Topic by Bran | last reply
You know the original go kart steering where the axle is bolted to alot of welded spindles and you would spend somewhere around $50 well i thought of using caster wheels, the type from harbor freight with 10" air filled tires then bolt a metal bar as the thing that the steering wheel turns so it uses the same concept of tuning the axle but instead of using spindles it uses the caster design for $20 would it work?
Question by BIGHAIRYDUDE | last reply
Instructables is blocked at my school. I had it unblocked at one point, and since then it is again blocked. How do I convince the higher ups, principal and IT personnel, that this is a website that the school should be able to access. I teach at a school that teaches high school age students trades like welding, culinary arts, carpentry, graphic design, automotive technology, machine tool, metal fab, masonry, business, nursing, agriculture, and cosmetology. I think I hit all the classes. Instructables would be a great site for students or classes to showcase their work. Suggestions?
Topic by ehudwill | last reply
National Geographic Television is looking for an experienced engineer or certified construction worker to host a new ten-part television series. The ideal candidate will have a diverse range of experience in one or more of the following industries: aviation, shipping, rail freight, construction, mining, or civil engineering. You donât have to have an engineering degree, you just have to prove that: you have engineering experience, you love your work, and you have the ability to communicate that passion to others. Professional certification in welding, commercial diving, metal work, or electronics is desirable. The series will be broadcast on National Geographic Channels both in the United States and around the world in the second half of 2008. Send resumes and inquiries to email@example.com by October 20 2007. Better still send a video of yourself on the job to Worldâs Toughest Fixes, C/O National Geographic Television, 1145 17th Street NW, Washington DC 20036.
Topic by peter_rees_tv | last reply
I just had to clean my thermos prior the tournament tomorrow. A quick peek inside revealed some stubborn residue. Propably furring (chalky deposits) from the boiling water i use to make tea in them... (we have quite "hard" water with lots of calcium). The throat of the bottle (Full-metal thermos) was too narrow for normal cleaning-brushes... I fortunately had a bag of rice standing around and thought "Hm... Hard and small things"! So i quickly added half a handfull of dry rice in the thermos and a bit of cold water (2-3 spoons). Then i shook it a bit and poured the rice out. The inside was quite clean and almost "pristine" again. This method should also work for thermoscans with glass-interiors. Another (better) way of doing that is propably (but ONLY if you have a METAL-Interior!) to add a hand of sand or fine gravel with some wather (Maybe even a bit of dishsoap) and give it a shake. Again: Only do the sand/gravel if your thermos does not have a glass-interior!! Have fun and enjoy a good drink while outside! :)
Topic by Orngrimm | last reply
Well, I'm thinking of posting another I'ble. This time it will be a fully functioning sword ( well, it is low quality, but you can get it to work ) made from school supplies I found at the bookstore. This is sort of like Pat sower's binder knife I'ble, where you can turn a school item into a weapon. ( But unlike that, the blade will be that long, metal yardstick ( sharpened ) ). It turned out pretty cool, and is pretty good for a weapon I make with school supplies, and is actually the only weapon made from school supplies I kept with me and not throw away after use. I managed to slice a watermelon in two with this, and I thought: Hey, this ain't bad for a weapon you make at school! In fact it rules! So, is anybody interested in building a fully-functional sword out of school supplies? P.S: I know that it's low quality, but considering you can make it for about an hour or less with supplies that only cost you 5 $, this is pretty cool.
Topic by Camisado | last reply
Hello to anyone who follows me. Yes I am still alive. Now the reason I am posting this is because I feel like I need to give back to the community I have been using/involved with for years now. Not the craft community but the Knex community here. Many of them have moved on from Knex since starting college and so have I. Mostly do to the lack of space and already messy room. So in order to give back I have come up with a better more interesting method. Instead of using Oblivitus's method of making the Knex guns in a CAD program I will instead be giving you the plans and basic instructions to make weapons/props inspired by Nonleathalbychoice. This being said unlike the Knex guns these items are going to be less accessible, more difficult, and dangerous. To do these things it will help to have a computer with Solidworks 2014 on it. Later I will post PDFs of the cutting plans in order to reach a wider audience. That being said some of the projects were and will be inspired by scrap metal I found and will be costly and wasteful to replicate. However I believe that the raw materials for 4 of the projects came in at under $100 total. So still cheaper than many of the larger Knex guns. Also I probably wont be posting these things as step by step instructions since most of these items are made by just cutting out sheet/bar metal. Any advanced instructions will be noted. The time frame for these instructions is going to be very slow due to college. Expect maybe 1 a month if even that. I will try to inform you of changes and fixes as soon as they become apparent to me. Also I am first writing this after only an hour of sleep. So if any of you spot grammatical errors please point them out to me.
Topic by tytiger33
So, I have an intex easy-set 12' pool. We have finally leveled the ground and re-filled it and it works great. I live in Texas the swim season is pretty long already. I have this all rigged up with a bungee cord tether so I can swim in place for exercise. I dug out the center to give me another foot depth where I needed it. I also have a solar cover and the entire thing is covered by an elevated parachute tent for shade/wind block. (Also modesty). For now the water warms up significantly enough by about 10 am without much heat loss at night. I have thought long an hard and this is what I have come up with to heat it during the colder months. I can build a typical solar collector with hoses and hook it to either my saltwater sand pool pump or the cheapy pool pump it came with (which would be better?) then put it on top of a metal roof piece in the yard slightly elevated from rain water, then attach radiant floor heating mats underneath it. I am hoping this would provide a boost of heat on less sunny days or when it is significantly cold, like December. With a much cheaper energy bill. I am guessing I will need to insulate the heating things a bit or something. Feel free to suggest anything. I am just kinda in plan mode atm.
Question by HidiousTak | last reply
Im planning on making an underwater jetpack something like this. However I'm a bit to dumb to figure out all the ESC and electronic components of brush-less motor systems. Im also limited because this is a school project and in order to be reimbursed the materials need to come from amazon. I will be using it in a chlorinated pool for demonstration but salt water resistance would be nice. My requirements are as follows: 1. Propeller must be covered as I may do another project after this one that requires fingers (im thinking 6in diameter pvc pipe with chicken wire or a metal grill over the ends) 2. Modifiable for different circumstances. (I already cut up an old backpack and screwed a plywood board to it for mounting the propellers and batteries, however I may decide to go with hand or foot mounting instead. 3. A trigger operable switch. (Cordless drill style although I don't care that much about speed control. I'm planning this project to be for a senior year high school project (next year) so I have plenty of time. Do you guys think something like this would work for the propellers? Their for air so I would expect significantly reduced performance in water. However if they are to high rpm/low torque to spin properly in water perhaps I could keep the enclosure and switch out the motors for higher torque ones.
Topic by TypeNameHere
Listening to Silvio Rivier, the host of Global Village, there was a section on Hydrofoil Surfing. I turned to the television, interested by this large word, to see this guy surfing a foot above the water! It seems that instead of floating along the water like a normal surfboard this board actually would be below the water while you stand on it. A jet ski pulls the surfer up to speed, bringing him up to the top of the water, but that's not it, there's a fin that leads down a foot and a half or so below the board, and attached to the end of that is a special shaped piece of metal called a hydrofoil that collects the water as it comes up from the bottom of the sea and goes over as a wave. The surfer then keeps going upwards, until the "foil" is about 4 inches under the water. Therefore the surfer can balance above the water, with very little resistance & going very fast. It's technically possible that this could be used for surfing not just close to land, but hundreds of miles out, so the person can surf for as long as their legs hold out, because they can surf in rougher water. Does any body think they could build one of these? Balancing on one is supposed to be like using a uni-cycle, & I'm having trouble surfing normally so even if I did build this I probably couldn't ride it. This goes out to Laird Hamilton, the creator of this funky board, & I'm looking forward to an Instructable. Cheers everybody, ~K P.S. The links aren't working so I'll add them as soon as possible. Neither is the video button, sorry about that, I'll have to add a picture instead.
Topic by Kryptonite | last reply
I'm thinking of making a fire pit in the back yard. My lot is small and the neighbors are pretty close, so I am concerned about sparks. I would like to make a simple spark screen. The first question I have is, what type of screen will work for this? My best guess is that if I get the wrong material it will burn through, or rust through, quickly. This doesn't have to last a long time, if I can get one season out of it that would be fine, two would be great. After the choice of material, my next question would be how to construct it. This would have to be pretty simple, I don't have any way to fabricate metal rings or something similar. So I'm thinking of just bending it somehow and securing with wire or nuts, bolts & washers. I read a simple way to do it on another site. It was basically to form a circle with the screen, create some corners to make it into a polygon. Then cut partway down at the vertices and fold the 'tabs' created to form the top. Sounds pretty simple to me, but if someone has a better idea I would love to hear it. What other considerations am I missing? I have read some suggestions about using heat resistant paint. And it will need some sort of loops/handles so I can pick it up or place it on the pit (using a long stick or something similar). Am I missing anything significant? Thanks, Jon
Question by Jon2001 | last reply
A 16'x16'x16', 256-square foot, A-frame cabin on an elevated 3' concrete paver floating DekBlock foundation with a 3'x 6'8" front flush door, one rear 48"x 48"horizontal slider window, and another upper 24"x 24" horizontal slider window for the sleeping loft.I'm thinking that one of those standard U.S. Stove designs might provide just a little too much heat for my needs up in the Copper River Basin region of ALASKA's rural backcountry. Who knows? What are your suggestions for the above described "habitat"? Where can I find the best deals for my 256-square foot space? (Heating/ventilation-wise, we're speaking of subzero temperatures and heavy snowfall, so, I don't believe that "opening a window" is a practical solution for me if it gets too hot and smokey inside my A-frame.) Plus, I've done the HEATING ESTIMATE for the A-frame I'm going to build and the numbers come out to about a 620,000 btuh (heat loss) for the new dimensions I'm finally settling on: 16'x16'x16' or 256sq.ft. This calculation is for -50 degrees F with cold floor, ceiling, and glass surfaces taken into account. (Insulation isn't a factor this early in the design.) "Wow!" I thought at first. "A 620,000 btuh HEAT LOSS! I reckon you can never have too much stove even for an A-frame design." (Being that A-frame cabins retain heat so well, and that my sleeping loft may get really HOT in the Winter, this was a preliminary concern.) Foundation:(4) 8"- diameter cardboard cylindrical concrete forms for pin-point piers;(4) 84" reinforcement rods for pin-point concrete forms;(16) Bricks for base of footing;(24) Layout stakes;(8) 5' batter boards;(1) Spool of wire for joining the two 14" reinforcement rods for each footing base;(1) Spool of line for marking building layout lines;(?) Bags of cement;(?) Bags of gravel;(?) Bags of sand...*A few questions about the amount of concrete needed for the four footings and the four concrete piers: "How much concrete will be needed for four 8"-deep concrete footings poured into four 16"-diameter, 44"-deep holes with each containing four bricks and the four reinforcement rod supports? How much concrete will be needed to fill four 8"-diameter pin-point concrete pier forms to an estimated height of about 80"-inches? How many total bags of cement, gravel and sand (aggregate) will my foundation require? Most importantly, how much will it all cost?"A-Frame Structural Triangle (Theoretical Dimensions):Sides = 16'Base = 16'Angles opposite sides = 60 degreesAngle opposite base = 60 degreesArea = 110.85125168441 sq. ft.Perimeter = 48 ft.Framing:(2) 2"x 10"x 16' girders;(12) 2"x 6"x 12' rafters;(6) 2"x 6"x 8' joists;(4) 2"x 4"x 4' collar beams;(10) 4'x 4' plywood sheets for subflooring;(2) 16' framing braces for structural support against wind damage;(?) 3200-square feet of roof/wall sheathing material for exterior surface areas...*A few questions about the amount of roof/wall sheathing material needed to cover the 3200-square foot exterior surface area: "How much exterior sheathing will I need? How much will it cost? I understand that metal sheathing is preferred in the Copper River Basin region for its snow-shedding ability, so, given everything I've just said, what are my options for the A-frame I recently designed?"My total approach to this whole subsistence lifestyle (i.e. living off the land within a small, confined space) is probably all wrong. I understand that I might need to change my complete "mindset" and adopt a sort of NAUTICAL (or MARITIME) theme with my decor, furnishings and appliances.Since I'm really getting into boats anyway (my one chosen option for escaping the bitterly harsh winters of ALASKA's COPPER RIVER BASIN if all else fails), I feel that marine stoves, composting toilets, and an overall nautical aspect in the "finish work" might help me cope since sailboat cabins tend to be tiny, and I may need to transplant a lot of what I have to my seagoing vessel, "Vera Essie".www.geocities.com/wduncanbinns
Question by Herr VOLKMAR | last reply