Question by andrealaconte | last reply
Hi, basically I am planning to make a device, like a elongating stick/rod. Based on a meter (scale) it should keep elongating, when the current is supplied. For instance say we have rod of 3 feet in length (3 pieces). The rod will be in the device, when I supply the power to the device, it should protrude to 1 feet and then again for more power another 1 more feet and more power another one more feet. Can some one pls help. Thanks.
Question by ganeshm69 | last reply
Hello, 6-7 years ago i went to the melbourne boating camping fishing expo where lots of cheap brand new models (samples) fishing rods were being sold. while there, i bought a telescopic fishing rod, which only now while looking for a replacement have i actually noticed it has writting on it! (because it is on the second section. over the years it has sufferd many damages, including what it got when i first bought it, which was that the top section became jammed in, and even now i cannot remove it, and while trying to undo what i did when i flicked up my rod , i ripped off the second tracer. over the last year i have done too much damage for me to risk using it anymore (it is a beloved sentimental treasure, which i hope to restore when i can), and i dont want a different carbon fiber , i want one the same as this, so i ask, does anyone know where i can find another rod like this? i suspect its made my uglystick, but i cant be sure though it shares the same paintwork pattern. i want to start fishing again now that i have located a hidden fishing spot known as sandy creek, which occasionally gets monster fish at high tides, and usually has decent fish in it always, as opposed to other shore accessed spots around darwin tiwi area. i am thinking of buying a palegic carbon fiber fishing rod, but i really like m old rod, please help! ill give a best answer to anyone who can resolve my problem, or find a lookalike
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply
Eepybird, the "Coke and Mentos Guys" used 108 2L bottles of Coke Zero and 648 Mentos to propel a car/bike 221 feet! An explanation of how it works, from their YouTube video: "The Coke Zero & Mentos Rocket Car uses a piston mechanism: a six-foot long rod sits inside a six-foot long tube attached to each bottle of Coke Zero. When the Mentos drop into the soda, the pressure tries to push the rod out of the tube. With 108 rods all pushing at once, that gives us a lot of power. All that power is pushing against a wall braced with 3,600 pounds of cement blocks. So all the force is directed into moving the Coke Zero & Mentos Rocket Car forward. We get one big push for six feet, and then it's all coasting from there." via msnbc
Topic by Jayefuu | last reply
I have tried several different rods with my plastics welder, super glue, two part epoxy and bondo. Something to bond #5 plastic containers would be helpful.
Question by mimsmall | last reply
Hehehehe BASS!!!!!!!!! whats your favorite lure? favorite reel? favorite rod??? even favorite color hook(if applicable) and if you are that "unexperienced" as to have no idea what i am talking about, Bass is a type of freshwater fish. probably the most sought after too. google "large mouth bass" if you are still lost....
Topic by ledzep567 | last reply
I am experimenting with voltages to destroy unwanted vines and other weeds in my grass and garden. I have an idea that a high voltage may be the answer. However I don"t relish using a 120 vac line out to the grass. So I would like to make a portable bat. operated one that can generate at least 5 kilovolts . The tip of the killing rod in my hand would be well insulated I presume. Is this type of high voltage available? How about use of a FASER gun? Is it legal? Ground Ivy is a pest weed. Hard to kill with chemicals.
Question by mistic | last reply
I am looking to buy a kayak. I don't want something too long, or too expensive. I am planning to buy off of craigslist. While on craigslist, I noticed that whitewater river kayaks have ALL of the features that I want in my fishing kayak. Limited size, plenty of space to move, alot of storage space... I was just wondering if I could buy a whitewater river kayak, make a few modifications, and use that as a lake fishing kayak? The only modifications would be fishing rod holders, a paddle hoder, and maybe a container inside to hold bait and tackle. Thanks for looking at this, freeza36
Question by freeza36 | last reply
Hello everyone. I have plans for foldable and floating house fit for 2 people with WC, 2 beds, 2 fishing chairs with tables and maybe a bbq :) I dont have the money to build it but its a dream of mine. I'll be happy if someone is interested and actually build this thing. when folded its 250sm / 150sm / 50 sm h. For the materials i can use steinless steal squares for base, old inner tires for support, light aluminium rods for the roof, some watter resistent fabric for the walls and some custom made beds and tables. I'm working on pictures with some lame architecture program and i'm posting them as soon as i can. I also have schematics of the joints and locking systems ... well if anyone is interested let me know
Topic by WishKeeper | last reply
For the past 2 days I've been working on a new fully automatic mechanism, and heres how it works. This new system uses a 'Rack and pinion' which starts off with the pinion pulling back the firing pin until it has no more teeth to grip to the firing pin with so it lets go and the firing pin goes flying forward shooting the bullet. after this the firing pin is returned back to its original position it is ready to be pulled again, this all takes around 2 seconds. Range: around 15ft(Blue rod) Firing rate: every 2 sec remember this gun is only a prototype so suggestions are welcome (needs a hopper), and remember that this gun only uses a weak motor so if you were to use a motor like the one a on oodalumps machine gun and with that you could possible double the range and firing rate! Enjoy:)
Topic by Shadow64 | last reply
Hi Guys, I love this website. I've been living in Egypt and can't really do all the hobbies that I love. We recently moved and I have a little patio area. So I wanted to build a waterfall. It's 10 feet high and I didn't realize it would be such a futile task trying to find a water pump that will pump that high. So I decided to make one. I attached some images showing the centrifugal pump made from two plastic containers, a water bottle, plastic coat hanger, and construction adhesive that is driven by a drill. It works really well. It gets up to the twelve feet I currently have the hose running up to. But in order to do this, the drill has to be almost full speed which is obnoxiously loud. I'm looking for some ideas on either how to silence the drill motor, or go a different route. I have to rebuild the shaft as I snapped the plastic rod (hanger) I was using, so I'm open to some rebuild ideas. Thanks so much for the input! I'll post a tutorial once I get a fully functional, stable, and practical prototype.
Topic by senica | last reply
A while ago I had a very bad day of fishing in terms of catching something for my frying pan or freezer.Same story for the old bloke sitting a few meters away from me.So we decided to pass some time with useless chats about our previous record fish we caught.While the old bloke changed bait I noticed that he did not have a hook at the end of the line.....What is that contraption and how do you catch fish with it?Old bloke laughed and said he goes hunting a lot too and always keeps the antlers from deer and such.Instead of a hook he used a round and pointy bar with a little notch slightly off the middle.Couldn't figure out how this possibly could hook a fish, so got a bigger laugh for it this time :("Make a loose fist, put it in and then pull on the line." he said and I was dumb enough to assume it would not work :(Figure it out by getting two bleeding pricks...Fish swallows the "stick" inside the bait and one there is some pull one pointy end will always get stuck.The other moves until there is no room to move anymore and the fish is spiked up for good.Only downside is that one you get a fish too big it might not grab - bad luck then LOLThis approach instead of steel hooks reminded me of the bamboo fishing poles my grandfather used to make.Be it for eel, trout, carp or even from the boat for pollock and sardine - he loved his bamboo.Even made me my fisrt fly fishing rod from a piece of bamboo :)The old guy however had more than hand made rods or horn needles as hooks.When his hands were still as good as his eyes he even made flies from these horn sticks!He explained the process to me but I never had the patience for normal flies and doing this with horn sticks and estimating how big the biggest fish might be while making sure it is neither too heavy nor fails to float...What I really liked about this otherwise wasted fishing day was the stories I got from the old man."You don't need fancy or oversensitive gear to fish, a safety pin and some packing coad do just fine if you are hungry!"Best story was how he caught a 2m gummy shark with a hand line meant to catch some sardines for bait.I could really his 3 hour struggle to get the thing on board LOLWhat are your most successfull old school or just plain weird catches with something a real sports fisherman would not even touch to cast?
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Hey there, well basically i have a Gilera H@K 50cc road bike and i have discovered that the speedometer does not work. I unscrewed the cable and with my fingers, twisted the cable as the bike would generally do while its moving. As i did this the speedo moved and was showing that the cable was not damaged. I then took the front wheel off the bike and removed the speedo drive. I removed the full cable so i could do some tests and i found that when i put the cable in the actual squared out hole that it just spun freely. the square shape has been worn down on the actual worm gear not the cable its self. so i was just wondering what would be the best way to get that square shape back, i was thinking about either taking off about 0.5cm of the hole then adding a home made piece that had a square hole cut out of the center. Would this be a good idea? or is there something else i could do like fill the hole and push the square rod through? I cannot find one of these on the internet well the only one i can find is over £40. I don't really want to buy this as i could easily just buy a digital speedometer and fit that to the bike. Thankyou in advance :D
Question by god ownz | last reply
What would be the VERY BEST way for me to TRANSITION into my newly adopted off-grid, survivalist, subsistence lifestyle? Answered
A 16'x16'x16', 256-square foot, A-frame cabin on an elevated 3' concrete paver floating DekBlock foundation with a 3'x 6'8" front flush door, one rear 48"x 48"horizontal slider window, and another upper 24"x 24" horizontal slider window for the sleeping loft.I'm thinking that one of those standard U.S. Stove designs might provide just a little too much heat for my needs up in the Copper River Basin region of ALASKA's rural backcountry. Who knows? What are your suggestions for the above described "habitat"? Where can I find the best deals for my 256-square foot space? (Heating/ventilation-wise, we're speaking of subzero temperatures and heavy snowfall, so, I don't believe that "opening a window" is a practical solution for me if it gets too hot and smokey inside my A-frame.) Plus, I've done the HEATING ESTIMATE for the A-frame I'm going to build and the numbers come out to about a 620,000 btuh (heat loss) for the new dimensions I'm finally settling on: 16'x16'x16' or 256sq.ft. This calculation is for -50 degrees F with cold floor, ceiling, and glass surfaces taken into account. (Insulation isn't a factor this early in the design.) "Wow!" I thought at first. "A 620,000 btuh HEAT LOSS! I reckon you can never have too much stove even for an A-frame design." (Being that A-frame cabins retain heat so well, and that my sleeping loft may get really HOT in the Winter, this was a preliminary concern.) Foundation:(4) 8"- diameter cardboard cylindrical concrete forms for pin-point piers;(4) 84" reinforcement rods for pin-point concrete forms;(16) Bricks for base of footing;(24) Layout stakes;(8) 5' batter boards;(1) Spool of wire for joining the two 14" reinforcement rods for each footing base;(1) Spool of line for marking building layout lines;(?) Bags of cement;(?) Bags of gravel;(?) Bags of sand...*A few questions about the amount of concrete needed for the four footings and the four concrete piers: "How much concrete will be needed for four 8"-deep concrete footings poured into four 16"-diameter, 44"-deep holes with each containing four bricks and the four reinforcement rod supports? How much concrete will be needed to fill four 8"-diameter pin-point concrete pier forms to an estimated height of about 80"-inches? How many total bags of cement, gravel and sand (aggregate) will my foundation require? Most importantly, how much will it all cost?"A-Frame Structural Triangle (Theoretical Dimensions):Sides = 16'Base = 16'Angles opposite sides = 60 degreesAngle opposite base = 60 degreesArea = 110.85125168441 sq. ft.Perimeter = 48 ft.Framing:(2) 2"x 10"x 16' girders;(12) 2"x 6"x 12' rafters;(6) 2"x 6"x 8' joists;(4) 2"x 4"x 4' collar beams;(10) 4'x 4' plywood sheets for subflooring;(2) 16' framing braces for structural support against wind damage;(?) 3200-square feet of roof/wall sheathing material for exterior surface areas...*A few questions about the amount of roof/wall sheathing material needed to cover the 3200-square foot exterior surface area: "How much exterior sheathing will I need? How much will it cost? I understand that metal sheathing is preferred in the Copper River Basin region for its snow-shedding ability, so, given everything I've just said, what are my options for the A-frame I recently designed?"My total approach to this whole subsistence lifestyle (i.e. living off the land within a small, confined space) is probably all wrong. I understand that I might need to change my complete "mindset" and adopt a sort of NAUTICAL (or MARITIME) theme with my decor, furnishings and appliances.Since I'm really getting into boats anyway (my one chosen option for escaping the bitterly harsh winters of ALASKA's COPPER RIVER BASIN if all else fails), I feel that marine stoves, composting toilets, and an overall nautical aspect in the "finish work" might help me cope since sailboat cabins tend to be tiny, and I may need to transplant a lot of what I have to my seagoing vessel, "Vera Essie".www.geocities.com/wduncanbinns
Question by Herr VOLKMAR | last reply
I am interested in getting a sit on top kayak to take fishing with me when I go campping. I can't decide between the Lifetime Tamarack and the Lifetimme Lotus. I will be buying from Sports Authority. Any Thoughts? (The lotus is $160 and the Tamarack is $230) Lotus Features Sit-on-top kayak Tunnel hull design keeps kayak upright One contoured adult seat One molded-in child seat Paddle cradles secure paddle when not in use Mast receiver receptacle Foot wells for leverage when paddling Generous cargo hold Ditty trays conveniently located for holding odds and ends Bottle holder Cut-out side carry handle T-handle in front with optional rear location Tamarack The Lifetime® Tamarack™ 120 "sit-on-top" kayak features a flat bottom for stability and a comfortable backrest for long days on the water. It's constructed with blow-molded, high-density polyethylene, making it durable, UV protected and impact resistant. With shock-cord straps, multiple footrest positions, two 6" center compartments and fishing rod holders, this kayak has plenty of extras to enhance your paddling experience. Features Constructed from UV-protected high-density polyethylene (HDPE) Lightweight 50-lb design Multiple footrest positions for different-sized riders Comfortable seat back Stable, flat bottom Easy carry handle Front and rear shock-cord straps 6" center storage compartment Paddle cradles Front and rear T handles for easy transport Deep hull tracking channels Stability chine rails Will not fade, crack or peel Dimensions: L 120" x W 31" x H 14.1" Maximum Weight Capacity: 250 lbs Draft: 5" Warranty: 1-year manufacturer's limited
Question by freeza36 | last reply
I wondered if anyone could help me identify some kite parts. I won a huge lot at the local auctions including literally thousands of kite making parts. (I have a lot more not imaged here) Unfortunately, I have little experience with kites and the scale of the volume I have acquired is a little daunting. So I thought I would ask the experts for help :) So far I think I have managed to identify the following: 22,000 4mm end caps 6,000 3mm spar/eap 1500 i think small douge (the yellow things that look a bit like bullet casings .. they could also be end caps but i am completely without a clue on this one) 500 rubber bands 6,000 5mm end caps 3,000 6mm end caps 8,000 3mm rubber gromets Tones of name tags I know there are a number of notched end caps I think the curved bits of plastic were 3 rods can attached are called dihedrals. 65 kites The fabric parts of around 10 large kites made by greens of Burnley (a lot of them branded as the pioneer range) I haven't measured but im guessing around 9ft across I think the lot originally came from Greens of Burnley who are no longer trading but I have found their archived site https://web.archive.org/web/20060818054031/http://www.greenskites.com/spares.asp If you could help by identifying some of the parts/ what the pioneer range of kites is possibly a place where I can sell some of the kit (there's far to much for me to work with here) I would be relly grateful :) PS ill put up more photo's if anyone is interested. PPS I have just found some info on the Greens of Burnley kites http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Vintage-CODY-War-Kite-1-GREENS-KITES-Greens-of-Burnley-Large-Frame-Box-/401079737121 PPPS I found the original image I think I have a few boxers from the range. http://www.kitelife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Kite-Lines-v7-3.pdf
Topic by world of woodcraft | last reply
I'm looking at a new prospective for a survival kit. I have an I.N.C.H. bag that i use camping. While I can pack it down to almost nothing, I dont use many of the bigger items. I was looking for ways to essentially minimize my bag. While I'm experience with the great outdoors, the minimalist aproach is a relitivly new concept to me. I want to base the kit on the ten essentials. I live in a harsh enviroment so I'd likely not be changing my shelter much. The shelter is already pretty basic. This is my must-have gear: Map, Compass, Sunglasses, Extra clothing (a skivvy roll and what I'm wearing plus my hoody and ponchos), Illumination (Preferably no batteries), First-aid supplies, Firestarter, Matches, Knife and Extra food. My current sleep system is as follows: Medium Weather sleeping bag with compression sac, Compact collapsible cot, Goretex bivvy sac, Sleeping role and Grommeted space blanket. I'm more worried about weight than size. I will likely switch the cot for a hammock because it's pretty sizey and the metal rods make half the weight of the system. For food I was thinking keep my hobo stove and boyscout mess kit but im considering adding a hobo fishing rig. My current fishing kit is a multi function compact pole with a fly reel and spin cast reel. While very light weight it takes up some space. About 1.5'x8"x4" roughly. any ideas on additions or subtractions for the kit? I'm mostly trying to reduce weight. I'm strong but lugging around a ruck sack takes more than a simple backpack with this and that. Any ideas are apreciated. I don't need a whole lot to live comfortably in the woods. The picture is of my I.N.C.H. bag pack in to my freighter frame. The black box is the fishing kit, the blue sac is the cot. Inside the pack is the sleeping bag bulging out. It's Probably my biggest item and in this pic is not in its compression sac as the sac was 'misplaced' while moving. I guess I'm asking for advise on downsizing the I.N.C.H. bag...
Topic by Skwurlito | last reply
(NO MODDED NERF GUNS)ok i was wondring what are ALL of the ranges of nerf guns lleave a comment of its lowest range and its highest rangeand what gun it isBuzz Bee:Big BlastDouble ShotLaser Tek Mega Missle Mustang Six Rapid Fire RifleSingle Tek Tek FourTek Six Tek Ten Lanard Blasters:First Shot Big Salvo Blast Bazooka Maxshot Over and Under Sonic Bazooka Speed Loader Triple Shot ERTL BlastersPump Action Shotgun Rapid Fire Pump Action Shotgun Nerf Blasters:Airtech 1000 Airtech 2000 Airtech 3000 Airtech 4000Airtech Jet SquadronArmor Shot ArrowstormArrowstrikeAuto GripBig Bad BowBlastfire Bow N' Arrow BuzzawChainblazerCommlink IICrossbow CrossfireDart Tag BlasterDefender T-3 Disc Shot Double CrossbowEagle EyeEliminatorExpand-a-BlastFireflyGatorHidden ShotHornet Hydro BazookaIron Raptor Laser Fang Lightnin' Blitz Lock N' Load Longshot Longshot Front Gun Mad HornetMagstrike Manta Ray Maverick MonoblastNB-1Nite Finder: min:16' 7" max:23' 4" (thanks to zack scott from you tube)Nitro Quad Pen Blaster Powerclip PulsatorRapid Fire 20Ratchet Blast RattlerRazorbeastRazor Fin Reactor Recon Rip Chord Courtesy of DraconisRoto Track Sawtooth Scout Secret Shot 1 Secret Shot 2 Secret Strike Pocket Blaster Sharpshooter 1 Sharpshooter 2 SlingshotSneakshot Spiderman Dart Tag Gun Splitfire Stinger Stinging Scarab StrongArm SuperMaxx 250 SuperMaxx 500 SuperMaxx 750 SuperMaxx 1000 SuperMaxx 1500 (New) SuperMaxx 1500 (Old) Supermaxx 2000SuperMaxx 3000 (Blue) SuperMaxx 3000 (Green) SuperMaxx 5000 Switch Shot Switch Shots MaxSwitch Shots Super Switch Shots Ultra Tech Target Titan Triple Strike Triple TorchVulcan Warthog Whiptail Scorpion Wildfire Promotional Blasters:Kung Fu Panda Commander CrossbowPirates of the Carribean Flint Lock BlasterSpiderman 3 Blaster Spiderman Wrist BlasterStar Wars Rebel Trooper BlasterThe Batman Light Signal BlasterThe Two Towers of Uruk Urukai Bow Wayne Tech Tri-Fire Blaster Other Blasters:Air BazookaAirzone 8 Shooter Air Zone Arrow StormAir Zone Dual Fire Dart BlasterAirzone Scorpian Bow Halo Ma5c Rifle Kids Stuff Bow n' Arrow Kilroy Magnum PistolLightstorm 2 Optimus Prime Blaster Periscope BlasterPistol Splat PS-800Pool Blaster Roto RocketSplatmatic Thundersplat Spy Gear Signal Launcher Star Wars Clone Troopers Blaster SuperSoaker MaxD2000 Super Soaker 50 20th Anniversary EditionThe Proffesional Trigger FireUSB Missle Launcher Vortex Firestorm Vortex TornadoXxl BazookaXxl Skeet ShooterBlast HammerElectric EelJust Toys CrossbowMarshmallow ShooterMissile StormPreceptorQuick StrikeRam RodRocket StormUltrox Quadra CannonWrist Blitzerthanks for helping! =)
Topic by knexsuperbuilderfreak | last reply
I was lucky to score a nice and real 8000mAh power pack with a solar cell from my local discounter.Realising the solar cell is more a gimmick than of real use I started to wonder....We all love our mobile devices and really hate that they need to be constantly charged up again.On long outdoor trips people used to carry a lot of gear and vital supplies.In todays times it almost seems that solar and battery power start to replace food and water.No trip is complete without pics, selfies and videos, some even take a drone with them.So: are there ways to increase your luggage weight by thinking smarter?Modern technology has come a long way and moves faster ever year.Solar cells are no exception here.Be it foldable setups or now even roll ups of flexible cell systems, you have the total freedom of coice.But then again: You are going on a week long camping trip in the middle of nowhere...Going on foot or using a bike means you need to keep the extras down or hire someone to carry them.Here are some of my yet to be finnished ideas:As long as you don't use them commercially feel free to make an Instructable or just use the ideas!1. Pop up amd normal tents.They seem to be the new standard now.Big with no poles on the inside and even someone who never used a tent can set them up.With the design comes a certain way of folding everything to pack it.Flexible solar cell designs won't break and can often be arranged so they would actually be able to replace parts of the outer tent material.And if it could mean they would get kinked too much and too often they are still perfect to create some "strap on panels" that can be rolled up and included with your foam underlay or mattress.A 200 or even 400W system can be transported easy and has less weight than a 80W fold up solution that you struggle to secure on your backpack or bike.2. Trackers!What is now almost a standard for fixed installations is still not seen in mobile setups.You pop up your panels, connect the power packs or batteries and go fishing, hiking or whatever.The sun moves on, the efficiency of the panels suffer.There are a lot of great Ibles for these solar trackers, from simple to 3 dimensional.Kites loves to use carbon fibre rods to reduce the weight.A tracking frame to hold a good sized flexible panel would count at less than 300 grams....In return you get up to 40% higher effiency and overall output compared to a fixed panel!Roll the panel up, fold the frame and you end up with a quite small roll that is easy to transport and very low in weight.3. Battery backups.No matter how long and well you planned, the weather might let you down shortly after your trip started.For a lot of comitted people that is no problem.The lack of power though can cause some to struggle to keep their video logs running.Your small drone might be great but it only lasts for less then 30 minutes until you need fresh batteries.Similar story if you use stabilizers, automatic tilt and pan gadgets or just a 360° camera.Just your cell phone alone can be a hassle if you use it as the main thing for GPS, pics and videos.At least one set of spare batteries seems to be a must have these days.For a lot of things it does make sense, for others not so much.Unless you really need ongoing power it might be enough to just charge you empty battery at the end of the day.But then the sun is down and options are gone for solar energy.In the RC area we can find a lot of powerful battery packs.Usually around 14V but 40 or more are no problem.And if you check the E-bike and scooter sections you will find some quite powerful and light weight battery packs.If you go outdoors a lot and for longer periods of time then it makes sense to replace the multiple battery options with just a single one.Use a high power backup battery with your solar system.DC-DC converters make it possible to literally combine everything with everything.Select the battery size so it will suit your charging needs and capabiliteis of the solar setup.Once time to close the tent you enjoy electricity to finnish your logs while your batteries are being charged during the night from the backup.4. Emergency generator.We all know these cheap gadgets like crank up torches or cranking mobile phone chargers.Nice to play with, utterly useless if you actually have to rely on them.A full charge for your modern phone might mean you crank for at least half the day - good luck!If you already carry a supply of gas for your cooking needs then these new fuel cells running on butane might be nice.Some of the Kickstarter projects actually made it into production!Prices though are more for real fans or those with enough money...But a small RC engine can drive some nice DC motor with very little fuel....In return you get a pocket sized generator that can charger your phone fully in the same amount of time a wall charger would...
Topic by Downunder35m
So... While brushing my teeth - I first rinse my brush, turn the faucet on, brush, then rinse the sink/mouth. Yes, I turn the faucet off while brushing. And if you're counting - that's two on/off cycles per brushing...I've been playing with this tool: http://www1.eere.energy.gov/femp/procurement/eep_faucets_showerheads_calc.htmlAnd I pose an open question for discussion.. But first, my data/research...I'm estimating 3 minutes of use per day - 365 days/year. According to the tool... I use 2190 gallons per year. Lets say that's 5 uses per day (2 for teeth - 1 for bathroom use). The tool seems to estimate an 8.4 year service life - so that's a total of 18396 gallons of water over it's life as a faucet.So If I leave the water on while brushing - that's 3 on/off cycles per day.butIf I turn the water off while brushing - That's 5 on/off cycles per day (40% more cycles).Realistically, a faucet's wear comes from on/off cycles - each use bringing it closer to retirement. So 40% of 8.4 years is 3.4 years.Now... Leaving the faucet on an extra 4 minutes per day (2 minutes per brushing) consumes 2920 gallons of water per year.The difference over 8.4 years is: 30660-18396=12264 gallons. At about $4 per 1000 gallons - that difference is $49.06. BUT, the direct replacement for my faucet (as priced today in home depot to the exact model) is $75. So after 8.4 yearsFaucet remaining on will cost me:$49.06 + $75 = $124.06Faucet being turned off will cost me:$75 + $30(prorated cost of faucet for 3.4 years of wear on a new faucet) = $105Differences:$19.0612,264 gallons of waterThat is to say - due to extra wear on my faucet - it's only marginally more economical to turn my faucet off while brushing my teeth. If I wasn't me, and not able to DIY replace - it very well may be cost effective to leave it on given the cost of a hiring a handy man or plumber...Okay... Now that you've read the above... please discuss your thoughts. I am very much aware of the assumptions I have made (no need to point them out) - just looking for opinions :)UpdateLets turn this discussion on it's head now... As several have pointed out, conserving is more important - bonus as it's close to an economical wash in my fictitious scenario above (it's not 100% real and based on data from the link above and some hefty assumptions).My car uses .3 gallons of gasoline per hour at idle. Lets take a 100% city drive in heavy traffic (my drive yesterday). I was at a complete stop due to traffic lights or traffic for 20 seconds or more a total of 12 times to travel ~10 miles (yes, I freakin timed it). So that's a total of 4 minutes (wow, that worked out nice) of idle time. That time consumes 0.02 gallons of fuel costing me $0.06. If I were to make that commute 5 days a week, twice daily - that's a cost of:10.4 gallons of gasoline$31.2 worth of fuelSo, a new starter for my car costs $130. Typically the motors don't actually die - just the contacts. But lets assume I don't want to fiddle with that and just want to direct replace (corollary to valve washers :D).This means - using my starter an additional 24 times per day - it will take 4.2 years for the fuel savings to pay for a new starter. In 4.2 years - averaging 12,000 miles per year - I will have traveled 50400 miles.Okay - now lets consider the cost of fuel to restart - 24 times.... According to mechanical engineering magazine, a V6 engine used 5 seconds worth of idling gasoline to restart. So - redoing some math to compensate - that's a savings of7.8 gallons of gasoline per year$23.4 per yearTime to recoup 1 starter: 5.6 years (equating to 66000 miles)So, I'm having some problems finding data on starter life cycle - all I have is anecdotal evidence... *My personal car has 115K miles and is ~8 years old - and I've been doing this since I bought the car >2 years ago. *My last car was sold at 98K miles and this was done for a little less than 2 years (the car was 8/9 years old when sold).*My first car had unknown mileage (estimated around 150K), was 10 years old and the engine was killed at stoplights.*My parents own a conversion van (seldom used now) that is 12 years old, 120K miles - did not shut the engine (v8) down at traffic lights.None of the cars above have had their starter go.*Father had a truck that had it's starter replaced around 220K miles - unknown age. That car left us with a blown connecting rod around 300K milesBatteries... Yes, this does put more strain on your battery... I'll go more into that when I can find some better data (more than anecdotal :p)...But, that's to say... It's economically viable to turn off your engine at traffic lights... So much so, it's illegal to idle (over a certain period of time) at traffic lights in some countries...
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply