Contest FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

Here at Instructables we run a ton of contests! We also get asked a ton of questions about those contests. Below is a list of the contest questions we get asked most frequently and also some questions that we feel could use a little more explaining. (Let’s be honest - reading the official rules is not fun.)Please ask addition questions in this forum topic - I'm sure there are some we have not covered!Important links:List of upcoming contestsContest suggestionsPrize suggestions General Contest Questions How do you choose which contests to run? We do this in a few different ways.Contests are planned based on past contest themes, what’s trending in search, which categories/channels need a little love, new site features or if there’s a certain type of content we want. Contest ideas also come from staff meetings and through the official contest idea forum topic.I have an idea for a contest! How do I tell you guys?Please post here and let us know! We can’t run all of them, but we love seeing the ideas you guys come up with. How do I win a contest?Post something awesome! Check out this collection of tutorials that will tell you how to write a great instructable. Why do Instructables employees enter the contests?We enter contests to set the bar and give an example of the type of entries we want in the contests. We're not able to win them, though!It's important to note that several employees were authors on the site before they worked here, though, so you might see some wins in our achievements! :) Entering Contests Can I enter if my country is not listed in the official rules?Yes! You can definitely enter.However, you must have a mailing address in an eligible country to win. If you have a friend in the US or another eligible country that can receive your prize, go ahead and enter!You can read more about our progress to add more countries to the eligible shipping locations here. I live in -----, why can't I enter?!Chances are your country has incredibly strict laws regarding gambling, sweepstakes and contests. We try our best to play by the rules, and if we can't meet the minimum requirements to run a contest in your country, we don't run them there!That's the easy answer. The hard answer is that it's very complicated and involves lots of risk and scary legal language. Why isn't my entry showing up in the contest? I entered three minutes ago!Real humans look at each entry! This means it take take a while sometimes. We work standard office hours, 9-5ish PST. We tend to moderate first thing in the morning, Monday-Friday.If you enter at the end of the work day or over the weekend, you may have to wait until the next business day to be accepted. Why can I only enter one contest with one Instructable?It’s all the spirit of fairness. In the past, we've had popular instructables sweep multiple contests with huge wins. This new rule will allow more authors to win! Why was I rejected from the contest?The number one reason for this is not fitting the contest theme - we try our best to explain the sorts of entries we’re looking for on the main page of each contest, so double check your eligibility there.We also sometimes make mistakes or encounter bugs during the approval/denial process. (Checking the wrong box, clicking the wrong button, breaking the back end of the site) It’s rare, but it happens! We’re human and can’t help it, but we do our best to right those mistakes as soon as we know they happened! Why can’t I enter an instructable I published before the start date into the contest?We want to see NEW and exciting content built just for the contest. If we allowed old instructables in, we’d just see the same things over and over again. Plus, the number entries in the contests would make it very hard to choose finalists and winners.Keep in mind that simply republishing an old project will not make it eligible - we check for that. ;) Can I edit my Instructable after it's entered in a contest?Short answer: YES!Long answer: You can make any modifications you want to an Instructable that's already entered! We get so many entries that there's absolutely no way we'd be able to police it even if we wanted to - but it's never something we want to discourage.Improvement is always a good thing as far as I'm concerned. :)However, we must caution you: it's best to get those changes done before voting closes. The voting period matters the most because that's the time that we start looking into picking finalists.Another slightly related caveat: don't publish a mostly empty instructable and try to fill it after the contest ends. We're starting to see this happen more often, always with a promise that updates are coming. You can never tell when we'll be reviewing it as a possible finalist, so chances are you'll get overlooked going about it that way. We are currently looking at 50-300 entries per contest, so anything incomplete doesn't stand a chance these days! Finalist & Winner Selection When are the finalists selected?Finalists are selected starting the Tuesday after the contest closes. The finalist selection process normally ends Thursday of the same week, depending on how tricky the contest is and how many people give input. How are finalists selected?Finalist selection is a mixture of votes and staff choices. We look for all kinds of things when it comes to picking finalists, including: Good photos! Pretty photos put you five steps ahead of all the other entries already, honestly. We're going to want to click through and look at it as soon as we see it if it's pretty! Good explanation of both WHAT the project is and HOW you made it. Sometimes it can be really hard to figure out what we're looking at. (Personally, if I have to spend several minutes staring at photos and reading to understand it, I'm not very excited about it anymore.) Try to convey the project through both photos and video if it's needed. For example - if it's a rocket, upload a video of it in action! A good story! I read more projects than you could ever imagine every month. I love it when an author takes time to explain why they made the project, or documents the errors they made along the way. That makes an instructable so much more enjoyable to read. :) Citing your sources/inspirations - look, we realize there's hardly an original idea on the internets anymore, so we can't fault you for that. But it's only fair to give credit where credit is due. We like that. Plus, it sometimes makes for an awesome story. Creativity! Look, I cannot even begin to tell you how many paracord bracelets, Altoid tin survival kits and Iron Man arc reactors I have looked at. My eyes glaze at the thought. Don't just go for the common and easy, take that project and put a new spin on it!!Relation to prize. In some contests, we offer a Judges Prize. Entries that qualify for this prize are also taken into consideration. We always suggest authors read their own work with an objective eye. Does it make sense if you aren’t familiar with the subject already? Did you provide enough description? Are the photos understandable? How many finalists are there?To find this out easily, go to the contest page and look at the total number of prizes to be awarded. The number of finalists for a given contest will match the number of total prizes. Why wasn't my project chosen as a winner/finalist?This can happen for all kinds of reasons, honestly. See the "How are finalists selected?" question above for a more in depth explanation of what we're looking for.The most important thing to stress is that we are going through TONS of entries for every contest, so it's important to set yourself apart. Choose a clear and concise title, tell us a story, share great photos, explain the project well. If there are projects similar to yours in the contest already, make sure your project exceeds theirs in awesomeness. Also remember that competition is fierce in the contests - there are always a LOT of amazing entries. When it comes down to selecting winners sometimes it's the little things because when you're comparing awesome to awesome the little things are all you can look at. So be detailed orientated when writing your instructable. Judging Who judges the contests?This is typically a mix of Instructables staff and authors on the site (your peers!). Each contest is normally assigned 10-50 judges.Lately we’ve had an average of 15-20 judges complete the process. I always try to add as many judges as possible, because more judges means the judging is more fair and helps to reduce bias. How can I help judge a contest?If you’re interested in helping us judge, check out this forum topic! To judge, you must have published at least one Instructable.We send out PMs to judges on the Friday after a contest closes. How do I judge a contest/access the judging ballot?We’ve written up an Instructable over it! You can find it here: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Judge-a-C...Once you're added to the list of judges, you’ll be able to access the ballot. Prizes How do you pick prizes? Can I suggest prizes?We've got a pretty small budget prize here, so it's a mix of trying to be frugal but still give you guys something fancy. We try to order most of our prizes from Amazon.com because they have reliable shipping and tons of options.If you'd like to suggest an awesome prize, do it here! I don't like these prizes, can I trade?Short answer: nope!Long answer: we choose prizes well ahead of time and order prizes at the start of the contest (for 95% of what we run) and we don’t make substitutions. We typically have anywhere from 100-250 winners a month (and increasing all the time!), so it’s not feasible to give choices and sub things out. Only three of us on staff work with ordering the prizes and shipping them out, so that would be lots of work!However, we have allowed winners to switch prizes with another winner on occasion (both parties must agree and let us know before we ship them!) and we’re fine with you selling your prize somewhere else. How do I get my prize if I win?When contest winners are announced, we’ll send you a message with a form to fill out. Make sure to fill this out completely and remember that we require a phone number and that we can’t ship to P.O. boxes.Winners are responsible for any trade tax or tariffs incurred for shipping to your location. We cannot reduce the value of the prize so you pay less tax (nice try, though, you sneaky hobbit!!). When will my prize ship?We try to ship prizes as soon as possible! 75% of our contests have prizes that are easily shipped right away and you should receive notification of shipment within a week or so.Sometimes we do have to order items AFTER the contest ends or wait for a sponsor to ship the items. If we think there will be a delay, we’ll let the winners know. We’ve been trying very hard to make sure we’re reaching out and updating winners about prize statuses.Also: VERY IMPORTANT - the sooner all winners give us their contact info, the sooner we can make big orders of custom sizes. Sometimes there’s a huge delay just because we’ve got one straggler. Be a good winner and let us give you prizes, dangit!!

Posted by jessyratfink 4 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Converting a Radio Flyer Classic Trike to an e-Trike

Hi. I've been looking at the Radio Flyer Classic trike for kids and realise it would be the ideal project to convert into an e-trike . Would welcome recommendations and best practice to do this . Component -wise , most important to consider ( slimline battery shape , throttle ( reverse feature) , fixed drive shaft ), front fixed foot holder. This would be my first project on Instructables and would love to document and share based on best feedback options adopted . Thanks!

Posted by greenwichmytime 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Removing hair dryer heating element

Request for help:  Does anyone know how to remove the heating element from a hair dryer to have it only blow cold/cool air?  I've opened it up and there are a lot more wires than I expected.  I have just enough electrical knowledge to be a little bit above dangerous, so I thought it would be best to ask for help.  Thanks!

Posted by WaffleM 6 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


where to get Strike anywhere matches

Their are tons of instructables with strike any where matches, but i dont have any!!! and i cant find a store that sells them! iv tried a hobby store which mostly sells boyscout/ camping stuff they have water proof matches but not strike any were matches iv tried sporting good stores with a second level devoted to camping fishing and hunting but they still dont sell strike any where matches. so-dose any one know where to get strike any where matches in the US

Posted by i make shooting things 11 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


What can be the problem with this circuit?

I built this Opto Sensitive Dimmer's dimmer part first just one led the Orange is light. but can be the problem? I built this on a test board so sorry for the soldering.

Posted by bothbence62 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Recommendations for lipo cutoff device

I've been looking for a device similar to a battery alarm for 4s lipos that can cut off the power when any one of the cells drops below a certain voltage instead of just sounding an alarm, i've been told that i can get a bms circuit which should be able to do this and that i should try to find the best one i can but i don't really know exactly what to search for. can someone recommend a small and affordable bms please? i won't be charging through it as i have a separate balance charger, i want it purely as a cut off device for when the batteries are in use...

Posted by ambientvoid 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Microsoft Photodraw - does anyone use it any more?

I have Photodraw 2000 on my computer from several years ago - I copied it onto my newer computer and I use it all the time to add text, borders or effects and to correct old photos or erase backgrounds.  I use my photos for various purposes, for teaching and family use, so it's good to be able to do lots of things with the photos in just one simple program I love Photodraw- it has so many uses and is easy to use. I never got the hang of using layers as in paint.net (which I've tried ) and Photoshop (which seems so expensive and complex). Does anyone else still use Photodraw or am I hanging on to a dinosaur here?

Posted by Puzzledd 7 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


How do you make your own cream of coconut?

Hey all! I live in provincial France, where it is virtually impossible to find Coco Lopez for piña coladas and other uses. I've tried several times to concoct my own, using sugar/corn syrup/other sweetener in combination with coconut milk, creamed coconut, and processed fresh coconut, but I am not getting satisfactory results. I can usually tweak the mixed piña to make it acceptable if it is drunk right away, but now I'm faced with the need to get my hands on some cream of coconut for a coconut cake recipe I'd like to try out. IMPORTANT:  I need to know how to make the equivalent of Coco Lopez, which is "cream of coconut" and is not the same as coconut cream or creamed coconut. If anyone knows the secret, please share! Even for people who can buy Coco Lopez whenever they want, it would be fun to have a DIY version of this tasty product using fresh (or at least, not so highly processed) ingredients with no weird additives. Thanks.

Posted by CherryPie 8 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Adding USB storage to Bluetooth device?

Hey diyers, I am looking for info. I recently picked up a mini Bluetooth keyboard/mouse combo. I got it for retro gaming. I was wondering if it were possible to add USB storage inside the keyboard and transmit the data via Bluetooth. Thinking I could use it to store save files so I have them no matter what PC I play on

Posted by turnafraze 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Ever heard of Ceramicrete, MgO cement, Magnesium cement

Has anyone ever worked with MgO cement?  Where can buy it in US? MgO replaces the Ca found in portland cement. MgO cement makes a concrete that will incorporate cellulose and other organics into the crystalline structure. absorbs CO2 instead of generating it, is an order of magnitude stronger than portland, does not require wetting, and cures in minutes. So basically, you can take some burlap or old blanket and paint this stuff on, then fill the void with straw and cement and make super strong, light and thin structures. I have looked for it locally but it does not seem to be available to consumers in the US, probably because of the lack of sheep crap which is the typical source of Mg. It is amazing stuff. This is pretty much the only article I could find about the stuff: http://greenhomebuilding.com/articles/ceramicrete.htm

Posted by bsims1 5 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


what paintball gun do you have

What paintball gun do you have?

Posted by nerfer192 10 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


coverting 24volt rechargeable lawn mower to use direct AC wired connection.

I am not able to start a gas mower and so I utilize a very old electric mower. A friend gave me a black n decker rechargeable 24 volt lawn mower, no "key" and no charger.  I was pondering putting an AC/DC power converter on the mower body and then using an extension cord to power mower. But concerned about running motor direct from converter. I would of course by pass the battery pack and go direct to motor because there are always warnings about not running an appliance while charging. So thinking along these line took cover off motor body and off the wiring in the handle.  Upon inspection except for the wires going to the batteries from the motor, the motor itself looks like the electric motor in my old direct electric lawn mower! My question is: Would it be possible to directly wire AC power to the motor of this DC powered motor? I am not an electrician but understand some basic principles. After reviewing specs on B & D's webs site know that there is some type of inverter built into the battery pack. I'm assuming it is to convert AC to DC for charging them. Could I wire directly to it then to motor and not use the batteries? I survive on a very low fixed income and can not afford to buy a replacement charger and needed "key" (connects wires to make it run). I do have wire and soldier and a desire to make it work. Any advise would truly be welcomed.  Otherwise I will proceed with my inkling of an idea and tell you how it goes or not! thank you.

Posted by nitajayne 5 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Very old and New topics getting mixed up

We are still getting very old topics (questions) and the newer ones mixed together.

Posted by rickharris 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Vertical Axis Wind Turbine - What is the best airfoil?

I've always been interested in windmills. The vertical axis wind turbine (VAWT) seem really cool. I discovered there is a company that (under contract) assembles them right here in my state of Michigan. So, on our summer vacation last year I diverted the family unit over to the assembly plant to see what's new, and exciting. Well, guess what, the plant is closed on weekend. Who knew. Well, for one, Momma thought I should have. Oh well, we got to see their demo unit Windspire up close anyway. It was just whipping. Anyway, to my question, if I wanted to build a really efficient VAWT, what would be the best shape for the airfoil? I've attached an old patent I found that has a drawing (Patent 4247252). I copied the drawing into Inkscape and redrew the airfoil using bezel curves. But, is this the best shape to start with? I'm hoping some aeronautical engineer out there can comment. Thanks, Jim

Posted by jimk3038 8 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


"dry box" for drying clothes in humid weather

Hi all,I'm thinking of building something helping me to dry my laundry in the amazingly wet weather that I'm getting in the place I live now.I searched instructables for a while, but did not find anything that really applies. This might be due to the fact that I'm both new to instructables, and not a native English speaker. I might be using the wrong keywords.So I live in a very humid and foggy place, and it's winter now. When I hang my clothes out to dry, the process takes ages. Sometimes I think it might be working backwards: the clothes become wetter. Also, an unpleasant byproduct is that my clothes become smelly, despite they are clean. Sometimes, as a last resort, I hang my clothes inside the house. But my house is very small, and I do not really have a place for the clothes hanger. Plus, the house gets very humid and I am afraid I'm going to get mold. On the other hand, I have a rather large balcony, with a lot of place for the clothes hanger.Of course I could buy a clothes dryer. I actually use a coin-operated one for large items, such as bed sheets and large towels. But I'd rather not use a tumble dryer for my clothes.However I recently learned about heat recovery ventilation for houses, and I started wondering whether the same concept could be used to build a small-ish enclosure (a box) where air is kept warmer and dyer than outside, possibily in a controlled manner. Also, it would be very nice to get energy from the sun. Surely the walls of this box could be transparent, or black, to create some kind of greenhouse effect. Then I need a fan, to have the air circulating. The air could go through a heat recovery unit. This could probably solar-powered. On the other hand, I am not sure that solar panels would be helpful for heating the inside of the box by night (energy should be of course stored, but I do not think that would be enough).I see that something similar to what I'm thinking about is already on sale e.g. on amazon. These are called "portable clothes dryers", but they do not seem really optimized. They look like a combination of a hair dryer, a clothes rack and a tent. I do not think there is a real heat exchanger, or humidity control...Plus, they do not seem really safe, especially if operated outdoors.Can someone give me some advice, e.g. pointing me to projects that use similar ideas possibly for different purposes?Thanks a lotFrancesco

Posted by pieffebi 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Rugged external pull up/down resistor connection

How do you people install a pull up/down resistor in a very stable rugged way.I want to hook up a pull up resistor to a sensor but I only have a cheap color coded resistor and if I solder it would be a messy hack and not a rugged long term solution. Of course I would like to buy a rugged solution, but I hit a wall with google, maybe my keywords aren't right. But I am pretty sure i am not the only one with this issue.Rufus MapQuest UpToDate

Posted by cjmaverickforever 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Programación de Modulo De UltraSonido

En esta prueba de la programación del Modulo de Ultra sonido hubieron varios inconvenientes al al principio, por ejemplo al programarlo por 1ra vez y al colocarlo en el suelo el robot no detectaba los objetos que se aproximaban a el, creímos que tal vez faltaba calibrarlo.Al programarlo por 2da ocasión el robot ya detectaba los objetos, el problema era que no daba la vuelta, simplemente se quedaba estático, creíamos que fue porque la batería estaba descargada. Al pasar 20 - 25 minutos tal vez el problema era que se necesitaba aumentar la velocidad del coche. Eran simples errores, esperemos que al hacer esto y les pasen los mismos errores que a nosotros,

Posted by ReneSantana 2 months ago


"Most Popular" ... ?

I was curious how the "Most Popular" section on the front page works, it's great and shows some wonderful Instructables, but I'm curious as to how an Instructable with just 67 views gets #1 on the list. Is it views / time? Comments / time? Thanks!

Posted by Kryptonite 7 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


How much angle or curve needed for bike trailer tow-bar?

I want to make a trailer for my bike, but am confused about all the various types/styles of D.I.Y. tow-bars I see being made/used...how does the curve/bend of the tow-bar affect whether the trailer will track correctly behind the bike? If the trailer does not track correctly behind the bike then the tires will be ruined over time, and it will cause more 'drag' (harder to pull). I understand that the tow-bar needs to be able to clear the bike's back tire when turning, but if I put the wrong angle or curve in the tow-bar will it cause issues with keeping the trailer straight behind the bike and tracking properly?So how does someone determine the correct angle/curve of the tow-bar, besides trial and error and possibly wasted materials? Thank you for your time and assistance.

Posted by Bsrlin 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


PWM to MPPT solar Charge Controller

I have an Hybrid Solar Inverter with 50A PWM solar charge controller inbuilt into it. It works on 24V battery bank. I am having 800Watt of PV module installed in the system. As my inverter is having PWM charge controller, I am not able to harvest maximum of power from panels. I want to know that, is there any arrangement or device which can be put in between PV panel and my Inverter which can increase efficiency or can act as PWM to MPPT converter for my Inverter? My Solar Pannels generates often 39V but I couldnt utilize the surplus power as it stepped down to 24 Volt.

Posted by Shashi BhushanS 3 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Circuit design

Hi, I’m hoping someone could help me. I’m looking to design a circuit for a college project that controls a 240v light. The circuit and light will be controlled by a switch however when the switch is first turned on the light needs to remain off (no power supplied) regardless of the amount of time the switch is on. If however the switch was turned on off and on again then the light needs to come on. Any ideas of a circuit and components required to produce something like this? Your help is greatly appreciated.

Posted by Worby10 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Rotary Tool neck thread size

I have several ideas for rotary tool accessories that would make my life easier, but they would have to be attached at the neck. So I need to cut out a hole, and tap it out to the right thread size. Anyone know what that is?

Posted by BoomGuy 11 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


How to get an instructable featured?

Hey can i know how to get an instructable featured my friend got his in a day?

Posted by iloveandroid 5 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


What can I do with Pro?

I recently recived a free 3 month pro membership for having my Instructable featured. (See the featured Instructable here.) But I don't know what I can do with Pro! What are some pro benifits, and how do I use them?

Posted by Chikpea 5 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Is it possible to link Arduino modules with a portable induction stove?

Hi guys! I would like to get an opinion on my first ever project. I would like to link an Arduino module to my portable induction stove. I was hoping that it would be able to do this: ---------- START ---------- 0 min - Start recording sequence Press[Rec] Heating Value: 0 Systems records no change in heating level 1 min - Puts ingredients and increases temperature by 3 levels Press[Increase Temperature]x3 Heating Value: 3 System records an increase in heat by 3 levels upon reaching the 1st min. 7 min - Dish is heated up, let it cool for a bit, decreases temperature by 1 level Press[Decrease Temperature]x1 Heating Value: 2 System records a decrease in heat by 1 level upon reaching the 7th min. 9 min - Dish is cooked. Decrease heating level to 0. Press[Decrease Temperature]x2 Heating Value: 0 System records a decrease in heat by 1 more level upon reaching the 9th min. 9.5 min - Stop recording sequence Press[Stop] Heating Value: 0 System stops recording. Recording is saved and ready for 'reading'. ---------- END ----------- Upon completion of the recording, this set of sequence should be able to upload back to the stove to replicate an identical set of heat change with respect to time. As such, would this project be possible? I would like to modify on the existing parts on my stove that I have. It comes with an interface or some sort that is linked directly to the buttons on the stove. (the buttons available are some commonly used presets and timer settings and an increase and decrease button for the heating level and timer) Any opinions and feedback would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you very much!! - Eddie (Newbie in electrical and programming)

Posted by eddiewoo 5 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


An alternative to expensive grinding stones

For some people buying a decent grinding or honing stone is a lifetime investment.Prices of over $500 for a single stone of a very fine grid are not uncommon.But what about the average Joe who just needs to sharpen a knife or tool every now and then?If slicing and dicing is not your living than investing in a set of diamond plates might be better than getting a set of stones.But there are limitations, firstly their size and then how long they last.The later is really important if not used correctly as even diamond toold can be ruined quickly.In some case these small sharpening tools are hard to handle.The bigger plates can still be a pain if they don't come with a proper mount.Well, and if you forget to clean them after use and put them in a dry place it will be quite hard to remove the rust.A nice alternative I found is sandpaper, specifically sandpaper on a glass plate.Good wet and dry sandpaper is available from almost gravel to a 10.000 grid, above that you might have to make a special order.In general the finer the grid the more you pay due to the ingredients.I use a glass plate from and old scanner as they are both heat proof and really strong, window glass is not recommended here.The glass is covered with strips of kapton tape for the ease of later cleaning.The tape is then evenly covered with a contact glue, preferably the spry king to get an even cover.Same for the sheet of sandpaper.I try to get the glue over the glass edge a bit and to have at least two sides of the sandpaper going over an edge.Just to have an area to work close to the edge without risking to lift the paper off.Once a sheet is too worn I place the plat in the oven for a few minutes so the glue softens and peel the sheet off.If too much glue remians on the tape I replace it before I put a new sheet on.Of course you need a bunch of plates although it works fine with two different sheets halfing a plate.The thing works best under slow running water, so use your tinker skills to come with a suitable frame and water supply ;)But even with just a spray bottle it is a cheap way to replace a costly stone, especially if you do require a bigger surface area.

Posted by Downunder35m 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


I need to know how to make a dc male jack with battery clip

I have a dc male jack and a battery clip.separately.i need to know how to connect .this is from a project i saw in instructables.please help.

Posted by ABhiramS5 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Why don't old /community/* urls redirect to new /topics/* urls????

All of the older links to a topics on Instructables link to instructables.com/community/page urls, but a while ago (I'm not sure exactly when) all the /community/* pages were moved to /topics/*. Clicking the old /community links returns a 404 error, which is annoying because then I have to manually replace the "community" with "topics" in the url. So my question is, why can't all the /community/*/ pages redirect to their respective /topics/*/ pages?

Posted by scitronboy 2 months ago


Electric knife sharpeners.....

Back in the day we already had these tiny grinding wheel like tools in the kitchen.Plug it in, press a button and slide the knife through.The blade was supposed to come out razor sharp if you trusted the ads....For obvious reasons a grinding wheel moving along the edge is not a good thing, especially not if both te up and the down movement work on the edge.As soon as they appeared they disappeared only to emerge years later in a "modern" form.The latest incarnation now comes with ceramic wheels to give an even sharper finnish LOLThe problem however is still the same, first the action of the whells then the fact that it is next to impossible to get different angles.They are really only good for some knifes you use in the shed if nothing else is available.A now much hyped electric sharpener is basically just a tiny belt sander with guides attached to it.And don't get me wrong, they come in handy for certain works.But if you ever used a belt sander on a flat piece of steel you realise that it is quite impossible to get a flat surface finnish.The belt curves around the edge and this results in a curved or beveled edge.Obviously the claim to sell these is that a beveled edge has superior strength and sharpness compared to a straight angled edge.And then there is the ability to adjust not just the sharpening angle but als the grid of the sandpaper.The finer you go, the better the result and sharpness...Now if we trust those who create swords from raw iron ore then something is wrong with the belt approch.These guys would tell you that you should always use a flat stone and to slice a piece of the stone.But also that a beveled edge is a sign of wear, something a good butcher will confirm.The angle of the edge party affects how sharp and durable the edge will be.Usually there is a compromise between blade thickness, meterial and edge angle.Just go from razor blade to an axe and include severel types of knifes between them.So a beveled edge in my opinion is only good for brute force tools but not that good for fine slicing and dicing.I tried to sharpen a wood chisel on one of the belt sander toys...It turned out to be far less precise and the edge was not fully straight.Could be down to lack of experience but if you ever try it let me know your results.The produced edge was also quite unusal and often bad when used as intendet.Far more chipping than cutting.Difference between straight angle and beveled angle when using a knife.You might want to do some lonely woodworks while fishing.A good knife now just eats into the wood and lets you cut and slice pieces of at almost any angle of the blade.With a beveled edge however you face the problem that your working angle is drastically reduced.Tilt the knife a bit too much and you suddenly just slide off the wood and into your flesh.If you grind and hone a knife to a 20° angle on a flat stone than from all angles above 20° you can cut.If you belt sand a knife to a 20° angle you end up with a bow over this angle.The actual usable working angle can be as low as 40° on a thicker blade.In theory it is possible to overcome this bevel problem.Sanders with a backing plate for example or by using just enough pressure to take material off.The first will destroy your belts quickly, the second takes forever.Some people just sand the knife at an angle to the belt, so instead of having the belt running at 90° to the edge it runs at 60 or 40°.Reduces the buckle but also the sharpness as the actual edge is now rounded.The only real way to sharpen a knife would be with a cutting or slicing motion, something that usually cuts your belts once the edge becomes sharp enough.So should you use them after all?As with all tools it comes down to quality and how you use the tool.If you know what you do and what the limitations are an electric sharpener can save you a lot of time.Someone with a desire for razor sharp knifes and tools might only use them on the lawn mower...You can however very well use sandpaper for sharpening a knife, which I will explain in another post....

Posted by Downunder35m 2 months ago


From Anime to Reality

Someone was such a fan of Akira that they recreated Kaneda's bike from the manga and the movie. The bike is actually street legal and I'm looking forward to reports of it tearing it up in Neo Tokyo in vicious street gang battles. Extra bonus points if it manages to create light trails. Link

Posted by fungus amungus 10 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


(EMP generator)How can i make a long range EMP generator?

I have watched many video in youtube about, how to make EMP generator. But those EMP's range are really small, I want to make a EMP that can disable any electric device around me like, Disabling all the device in my room. So can Anyone help me with this??

Posted by harryt47 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


YouTubers who also post on Instructables

Who are your favorite YouTubers who post their project tutorials here on Instructables? For me the list isn't that long, looking to make it longer...Darbin OrvarEvan & KatelynPaul JackmanBrian LoughGlen (DIY Creators)Jen FoxbotJohnny Brooke (Crafted Workshop)Barb Makes Things

Posted by bekathwia 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Microwave stopped heating

Our microwave is about two years old and it stopped heating. The fan ran and the carousel went around, but food did not warm. I took it out of the upper cabinet mount and opened the case. I know about the big capacitor and discharged it with a screwdriver after disconnecting the power. For extra safety I clipped a jumper wire on both terminals. I watched numerous videos at YouTube on troubleshooting a microwave and on testing the various major components at home, but no component showed any signs of failure. Then it began to work again as suddenly as it had stopped working. About ten days later, it stopped heating again. After more testing, still no components showed signs of failure. But, I did squeeze the female spade crimp connectors a little with a pair of pliers before connecting them again so they fit more tightly when reconnected. The microwave has continued to work as it should. My wife remembers a time a few months ago when she ran it and ran it to get something to cook as she wanted it and the microwave stopped because it was overheated. I suspect a connection was weak and heated the metal in the connector enough that it became weak. Later it failed intermittently. We could have called warranty service, but we did not want to wait. Knowing what I know now, I doubt a serviceman would have patiently checked for weak connections, but would probably have simply replaced some parts. When those did not really solve the problem, the microwave would have been condemned and replaced. A replacement oven may not have matched our other appliances as well as our present microwave does. Test procedures for components in a microwave are different than they are for similar components used in (for example) a sound amplifier. This applies especially to the high voltsge diode. Do not connect a voltmeter to the high voltage side of the transformer. When running the microwave, be certain to have a dummy load in the cavity, like a cup of water. A very useful test that checks for power to the transormer primary is to disconnect the primary side transformer connectors and attach aligator clips from a voltmeter to the transformer leads. Then run the microwave for a few seconds and check for a full line voltage reading each time. A clamping ammeter to measure line current helps because the sound with the magnetron working is not too much differnt from the fan and carousel running without the magnetron working, but, it is easy to see the extra needle deflection when the magnetron is also drawing current.What seemed to be an expensive problem had an easy inexpensive solution.

Posted by Phil B 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


An idea for highly directional and loud loudspeakers

I am currently playing around with vibration experiments.Mainly in the ultrasonic range though.But when messing around with some vibration speakers I found a not so well documented misuse for themEveryone wants a big TV these days but once you have it the sound often turns out to come from a tin can.Those with a good entertainment or at least stereo system won't mind hooking the to it.The rest usually opts for a sound bar or how I like to call them shredderbox.Sooner or later they just fail to produce the sound you had on the first day - or they cost a small fortune.What is the secret to a powerful speaker?Firstly efficiency.Secondly the design.You need the right material to produce a more or less even reaction at all intendet frequencies.The design makes sure those frequencies that need extra attention get more volume output, like by using a little pipe for the low frequencies.Some even include a dedicate speaker for these low volumes.What if you could just build you own soundbar on a budget?If you have a failing soundbar with the actual speakers as the problem you could salvage the electronics.In case you can make do with headphone input or RCA connections than any cheap amplifier will do.Leaves the speakers...Vibration speakers are still underestimated for their uses...I tried the the usual approach of using a glue on vibro speaker:Place it on surface tha gives a re more or less decent sound.The thing is though that there is no ideal surface for them.A table can sound like the highs are missing, a hardwood desk might not produce any low frequencies while a window or plaster board wall bring the problem of wiring and vibrations.To check the reactions of sound on different media I, one day, mounted one speaker under a big tin can.Right in the center.The fun hit me when my tests with water were over and tried to play a song with the empty can.Of course there was some degree of tin can sound but the directional qualities together with the wide frequency spectrum made me experiment.The key is to find the right material and shape!You want something that is hard enough to vibrate properly but soft enough to allow for lower frequencies.I tried pipes, boxes, old plastic containers....But nothing seemed to provide a broad and even sound spectrum without distortions.If you vibrate a surface then only at certain, resonant frequencies destinct patterns will form if some dust or similar is place on the surface.In all other cases there is only chaos.Preventing the harmonics to form prevents harmonic vibrations to build up to distortion levels.Like it or not but waste seems to work just fine as a speaker ;)I made a plug to fit reall tight into a 2 liter juice bottle neck.The original plastic cap is just too soft.A vibro speaker glued onto the plug and the bottom of the bottle cut out and the soun was quite impressive.Proper use is however limited as the speaker would need to be mounted upright.Next thought was to utilise the bottom of the bottle too.By cutting a round hole in the side of the bottle I got an even more directional speaker with a better response to low frequencies.Placement of said hole of course affect how certain frequencies travel and where nodes can form.The size might also matter as the hoe itself, or better the material around it can get resonant at certain frequencies.You can cheat at bit though by using sticky tape, duct tape and so on as dampening meterial in badly affected areas.Especially with a wall mount for the speaker and the bottle hanging down behind the TV the effect is good compared to a standard shredderbox. The above design is certainly not for everyone although I think it has a wow factor to it if you show a decent sound coming out of a juice bottle ;)My next step was trying to find out how more fancy designs could work.So just stop reading here unless you like the idea of creating speakers that should not even work.Back in the old days we had more than just the speakers with magnets and cones.Anything that can vibrate can produce sound.It all depends on how much of it we can actually hear.My first exotic idea to really misuse a vibro speaker is a vibrating harp.Does not need to be in the classic shape though.A string in a resonance box, like a harp, guitar, violine and so on will start to vibrate at the set note.This is true even if the force for the vibration is external.You might remember the old school experiment with the two pitch forks on their boxes?Hit one and the other starts to swing too.If you make a resonance box for a vibro speaker with internal or external wire strings at different tensions or lengths you can amplify the sound for the notes that correspond to the strings.Make a relatively large box with some sturdy wires for the frequencies between 60 and 100Hz and you have a really powerful subwoofer from just 20W of input power...I think you get the idea on how to use amplifying strings now ;)My second and total misuse is the xmas tree.If you are a sparky by old trades then you might remember the mechanical frequency meters for generators or other things that required a stable supply.Well, if not than you should know the little wind up toys that play a melody with a drum and tiny forks.Imagine you would replace the glue plate with a rod.Depending on material and length harmonic nodes will form at various places and frequencies.Between those nodes the swing is maximised while the node itself appear to be stationary and without and vibrations at all.For example a steel rod of 1.2m would have a single standing wave at about 1kHz while a copper rod of the same lenght will be much lower in the frequency for a single standing wave.The xmas tree assumes that the rod is of such material that no single standing wave can form below 200Hz and that it won't swing too much at other resonant frequencies.Since aluminium is easy to work with and available in flat and thin bars already it would be my first choice for the branches of the tree.The required length is calculate based on the speed of sound in aluminium - you find online calculators for that.You want the lenght so that you end up with an even fraction of the wavelength you want to "play" with that strip.This allows for the rod to be placed right in the center of the strip where the standing wave movement is zero in the node.Make a lot of thin strips to get a broad frequency response.Placement on the rod can now be crucial.The best option I found so far is using a threaded rod and tapping the holes in the strips.The strips swing quite violently if long and at certain frequencies.And those not in resonance will still transfer their momentum to other strips.This can cause unwanted harmonics.Most evident when a single strips swigns violently at a certain frequencies.Adjusting the angle by turning it is often enough to get out of the overlapping harmonics.With enough strips it then really looks like a tree with flat branches.The sound might not be as loud and impressive as a plastic bottle as the virations are going up and down.But if placed in the right spot it not just looks nice but also makes people wonder where the sound is coming from.Last but not least my yet to be tested hidden speaker system - due to renting restrictions :(If you own a house of the standard frame design then you have plasterboard walls and ceilings.With a large enough surface of the right material, one or two vibro speakers can cover a really wide frequency range at good volume levels.So far I could only do tests in an old wooden window frame but the priciple works the same way between the wooden frames of a wall or ceiling.In my experiments a standard plasterboard sheet needs to be 100 x 100cm to get a more or less decent response for the lower frequencies.Before you rip your walls down use a stud finder and place your vibro speaker on the plasterboard between two studs or beams.I found that two speakers for the lower frequencies and three or four for the higher ones make a good sound.That is per channel and if you have the right size plasterboard sheet in the right place.No point if your left side is further away from the TV than your right.Ideally you replace the entire sheet with the speaker in the right spot on the new sheet but on the back.For obvious reasons this is far from being a perfect solution.But if you plan a full renovation anyway...A way out for older houses is the wooden floorboards.They make excellent resonators for low frequencies.The directional speakers could then still be hidden in picture frames of the right thickness and design.Anyways, I hope I gave you some ideas here ;)

Posted by Downunder35m 2 months ago


Removing adhesive from vinyl tiles

I am having solid hardwood flooring installed in my first floor of my home. The existing flooring is currently 12x12" vinyl tiles. I am in the process of removing the tiles (using an iron). How do I remove the old adhesive that was used to put the tiles down? Is it necessary to remove even though felt underlayment will be placed under the hardwood? Thanks in advance.

Posted by meemee_0822 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Halloween Making: Why do we do this to ourselves!? ; )

Closing in on midnight on October 30th, and I found myself in a familiar situation . . .Making last-minute Halloween costumes and props for my kids!Here's a photo of my late-night kitchen table, where I was working on a homemade hover board prop from the "Back to the Future" movies. I paused for a moment to survey the scene and snap a photo, and couldn't help taking note of the silliness of the whole thing. It's midnight. I'm tired. My kids are asleep. And I'm up making this thing. WHY?Why do we do this to ourselves?! - - - - - -I know why I do it, but tell me why you do!Were you up late making stuff for yourself or for your kids? Share your reasoning and thoughts on being a creative Halloweener in the comments below. Be sure to include a photo or two of what you were making!

Posted by seamster 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


3d delta printer issues

Hi everyone. I need some help regarding the homing of a 3d delta printer, and it's my first attempt to create a 3d printer by scrap. My problem is regarding the homing, when I do the homing 2 out of 3 endstop work properly but 1(always one) doesn't work properly(see video). While the support is hitting the endstop, it moves a little back like the others, but then move up again and doesn't stop 'til I do it manually. there is someone that have some idea to solve the issue? Hope everything is clear enough, otherwise ask me :) Thank you in advance.

Posted by SebastianS217 2 months ago


Knex Mp7 PDW

This is my new H&K; MP7 PDW. It features a removable magazine, a foldable front foregrip, iron sights, and it is very sturdy. Hope you liked it and see you next time with another knex gun!

Posted by TheKnexPro 3 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Magnets in the Microwave, can you do it?

So does anyone know if you can put a magnet in the microwave? Will it cause some nuclear explosion, or rocket me back into time? Or will it just stay on my mug and witness the warming of my beverage?

Posted by Punkergal 10 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Any idea on how to bypass Iboss Webfilter on Mac OS? Challenge!

My computer teacher gave us a challenge: our school used to have filters on most of it's computers, but they were taken down and replaced with something else. As a challenge, our computer teacher re-installed it on some computers and told us to try to get through it. I have had little success, my most promising moment being with a glitch in Firefox, that soon fixed itself and ruined my only gateway. To win the challenge, You have to get onto Facebook, myspace, and twitter, all of which are on the blacklist. Once there, you must post into a specific profile. You must do this three separate times, to illustrate that it can be done more than once. I know it is possible, because two other kids in the class have managed it, but I simply have no idea. The program is Iboss Webfilter by Phantom Technologies, and all of our computers are pretty new Macs. We have access on our computers to Firefox, Safari, Seamonkey, Camino, and Omniweb browsers. All proxy websites are blocked by the webfilter program. All firefox abilities are enabled though. Any and all suggestions or help is appreciated, If we pass the challenge, we get an automatic 100% in the class, because we have probably the coolest computer teacher ever. If anyone can give me a good solution that works, they get a patch!

Posted by ilpug 6 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Knex HK 417

This is my Knex HK 417. It is very nice looking with its flashy side rails and stock. It was a very large gun that held a lot of ammo and shot very well. It was able to shoot passed the length of my house. It also had a removable magazine. I liked building it because it was different than your normal M4 styles.

Posted by Blue Mullet 5 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


How does one sort questions by date of submission?

Hi all,It's been a while since I've been to instructables. I see that Questions are back, but they seem to be listed randomly. one will be "posted 9 years ago", followed immediately by one the was "posted 6 days ago" followed by one that was "posted 3 years ago" etc.I don't see any ability to sort by date, although I suspect I'm simply unfamiliar with the new layout.Any help would be appreciated.PS> If some iblesfolk sees this post, I'd like to thank you for implementing post editing. It was always an aggravation to me that I'd have to delete a post in order to correct a misspelled word or otherwise fix some grammatical or cognitive error. Thanks also for implementing the menu bar above posts. (B/I/U etc)dropping this into "websites<

Posted by seandogue 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


What is this tool

Does anyone know what this tool is?

Posted by weflyfish2 6 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Stepper motor working with nrf51dk (problem with timer i think)

Hello everyone, I am trying to make a program that makes work a stepper motor 28BYJ-48, my stepper motor is well connected to the ULN2003 and the ULN2003 is well connected to my nrf51dk, here is a picture of my setup : https://coeleveld.com/arduino-stepper-uln2003a/I foloowed this tutorial and it worked with my Arduino, so I guess the problem is not coming from there.I am now making a program using the nrf51dk, I am using nrf51_sdk_10.0.0 and the ble_app_uart as an example, my project is to control the motor via Bluetooth.But for the moment I just would like to make the motor runing.so I follow the same principe of code as in the tutorial for making it work.I need a timer, so I also followed the "Application timer tutorial" from nordic :devzone.nordicsemi.com/.../application-timer-tutorialhere is my code that I Added to the ble_app_uart project ://At the top I define the differents gpios that I will have to use//and step_number that is a variable use to navigate threw the differents steps for the motor to work int step_number = 0; #define motorPin1 1 #define motorPin2 2 #define motorPin3 3 #define motorPin4 4 #define APP_TIMER_PRESCALER 15 /**< Value of the RTC1 PRESCALER register. */ #define APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE 5 /**< Size of timer operation queues. */ //I add 4 different timers, one for each pin APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step1); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step2); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step3); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step4); . . . //the code already defined in the existing project//Timeout handler for the repeated timer //I need 4 timeout handler, one foreach motorPin static void timer_a_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin1); } static void timer_b_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin2); } static void timer_c_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin3); } static void timer_d_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin4); } //Then I create the timers // Create timers static void create_timers() { uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; // Create timers err_code1 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step1, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_a_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step2, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_b_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step3, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step4, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); } //And here is my main //with the loop to make work the motor the same way I did with the arduino, but adapting the code int main(void) { uint32_t err_code; uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; bool erase_bonds; uint8_t start_string[] = START_STRING; // Initialize. APP_TIMER_INIT(APP_TIMER_PRESCALER, APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE, false); uart_init(); buttons_leds_init(&erase;_bonds); ble_stack_init(); gap_params_init(); services_init(); advertising_init(); conn_params_init(); printf("%s",start_string); err_code = ble_advertising_start(BLE_ADV_MODE_FAST); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code); create_timers(); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin1, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin2, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin3, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin4, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); // Enter main loop. for (;;) { uint8_t str1[1] = "1"; uint8_t str2[1] = "2"; uint8_t str3[1] = "3"; uint8_t str4[1] = "4"; switch(step_number){ case 0: err_code1 = app_timer_start(timer_step1, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str1, strlen((char*)str1)); break; case 1: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_start(timer_step2, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str2, strlen((char*)str2)); break; case 2: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_start(timer_step3, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str3, strlen((char*)str3)); break; case 3: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_start(timer_step4, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str4, strlen((char*)str4)); break; } step_number++; if(step_number > 3){ step_number = 0; } power_manage(); } }Probably I am doing Something wrong with the timer, because when I modify it and decide to use it with a led for testing like in the tutorial, the motor makes noise but doesn't move and the led works. If someone can help, it's been hours I am on this problem and I can't find my mistakes.

Posted by BenjaminP106 2 months ago


Maker/fab lab/AI special call for papers invitation

Hi !My name is Andre Peres and I'm a professor and fab lab manager at Brazil.Me and Fabiana Lorenzi are chairing a special track at flairs (The FLORIDA ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE RESEARCH SOCIETY) about fab labs, makers and AI. about the track: http://www.invenio.com.br/flairs/about flairs: http://www.invenio.com.br/flairs/about We are inviting interesting projects to submit to this track. When we made this special track we wanted to give fab labs and makers the opportunity to get together in this academic environment to talk, exchange experiences and also to get this opportunity to link academic research, the maker movment and personal digital fabrication.We hope you consider submiting your project to this special track, and also to see you at FLAIRS. best regards;André.

Posted by decoP 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Ideas and Methods for DIY Truck Topper

So in 5 months starting February I'll be getting my first vehicle. If I do get a truck, I'll be making my own topper out of wood. Now I have a reference picture but I want it out of wood just because it's more secure and looks pretty. Also because I will be making a door on the back that stands tall but can also be walked through. The first two photos is how I want to make the topper but I need methods and advice to do so. The third picture is how I want the door. I'll try to answer any question when you have them but keep in mind I don't currently own a truck, this is for 6 months down the road.

Posted by jlowery5 1 year ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Don't keep rats as pet !

When my brother decided to travel around the country, he has been forced to leave the white rat he kept as pet ... and I've been forced to adopt this little animal.Rats as pets quickly become cute, funny, and show a personality that make them even more endearing ... In other words, "la souris" (the mouse), as I renamed it because I was unable to remember the name my bro gave her formerly, quickly found her place in my home and my life.So, happy end ??No !No, because rats pets quickly develop lot of weird diseases :- dermatitis - mange- bumble feet- cysts- tumors- etc- and various infections and self-injuries because the rat scratches or bites itself because of one or several of the above diseases.The health and the life of your rat will quickly become a nightmare, and, if like me, you tend to consider your pets like full members of your family, your rat pet will become a great source of worries ... and if you're not cruel, you'll be forced to give an end to its agony. Because that's a real slow and cruel agony.Most people who adopt a rat as pet seems not to be aware of all the problems this little animal will have, neither how expensive it will be to look after it.The internet is full of sites dedicated to the diseases of rats pet. My advice : If you love pets, don't adopt or give a rat as pet !20080225 update :Despite what I said, if you still want to adopt a rat, then, you should better document yourself a lot before commitment.Member Please wrote a tiny instructable about How to take care of a rat the right way. She is a breeder, so you could ask her as much questions as you need.20080226 update :She also wrote two other very useful articles :avoid bad diseases for your pet ratfun games for your pet rat

Posted by chooseausername 11 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


10 Watt LED Circuit

I am a software developer by trade and have little or no experience regarding LED and/or electronic designs. I am hoping someone here can help with a project I am working on using high brightness LEDs. I have studied several 'instructables' and specifically dan's "Circuits for using High Power LED's." My project consists of a few high brightness LEDs that will be placed in a high ceiling room with the brightness controlled by a microcontroller based on the light in the room (time of day, sun in window, etc). The microcontroller will use photocells to determine the brightness in the room and then adjust the LED using PWM pins. The LED is 10 watt and approximately 450 lumens. Attached is a circuit I drew as a starting point and would like help in determining if it will work, I am close or does it need to be trashed. I am not sure what the value for the resistor should be. Below are some calculations but not sure if I am on the right track or not. No need to be kind, I am more interested in getting it right and not losing any 'magic puffs of smoke' from any of the components. Here are the specs: LED IF: 1.6 A Peak Forward Current: 1.7 A Forward Voltage: 8 V LM350 (heavy duty version of LM317 IO_MAX: 4.5 A 1.2 - 25 V adjustable regulator BC337-40 Collection Current - Continuous: 800 mA dc Total Device Dissipation: 625 mW Resistor: 5W or 10W Voltage Amp Ohms Watt 8 1.60 5.0 12.8 8 0.80 10.0 10.0 8 1.10 7.5 8.5 Note: LED and components will have adequate heat sinks.

Posted by desnotes 9 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Support contact problems

Hi, Is anyone else experiencing problems contacting the Instructables support team via email? I have tried to email them via different channels three times now but it comes back as non-existent email address.... ironically the reason I'm trying to email support in the first place is because despite changing my contact to a new email address in my personal settings, emails are still being sent to my old email address. If anyone knows how to get through to support or if they are having the same issue maybe we can join forces to resolve it..? Cheers!

Posted by PabloDee 6 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Need ideas on how to make an automatic photo slicer/cutter...

I'm playing with a digital photobooth which prints out 2 vertical strips per piece of 4x6 photo paper.  It works great, and I just cut the paper in half (the long way to separate the two strips. I'm looking for a way to automate this.  I've tried pre-perforating the paper, which works but is not ideal.  I've also just manually used a paper cutter (both rotary and guillotine style). My goal: an automatic paper cutter that will cut a 4x6 photo in half the long way. I've actually started building a device that is basically a slot to guide the paper, and a turning rotary blade.  The paper gets dropped in the top, is drawn through the turning rotary blade in the middle, and is spit out the bottom.  It works on small scraps of paper, but lacks the power to really cut through an entire piece of photo paper.  Also, it's built out of MDF wood and I lack the tools to make it precise enough to cut accurately. The cutting mechanism seems to be the big holdup.  I tried with my hand - a rotary blade (even a big sharp one) requires quite a lot of pressure to cut the photo, and it's not something the photo paper can just drop through via gravity.  I'd have to get a much stronger motor. But I'm starting to brainstorm - is there a better way?  I think ideally I'd have a mechanism like an electric paper shredder - two rolling bars with disc-shaped metal blades.  The blades are not thin & sharp like a razer... just sharply-square on their edges so that paper get gets caught between them gets cut.  I'd have a paper shredder with just two of those roller/blades, so it would just cut right down the middle. However, all paper shredders I've found are cross cut (which would pulverize the photo), or have grippy teeth that mangle the paper leaving very rough edges. So let's brainstorm... what kind of cutting mechanisms might work?  What are make-able in a garage with limited tools?  How could I create my own custom paper-shredder type roller-blades? Any ideas, thoughts, questions are welcome.  It seems simple on the surface, but I've built two prototypes and still don't have a workable solution. Thanks! (And yes, I'll turn it into an instructable when it gets done) SUMMARY: (I'll try to summarize the current ideas here) -Use a mini saw blade and work it like a mini table saw. -Create some kind of rotary die cutter. -Automate a normal guillotine paper cutter (lots of electronics and sensors).

Posted by jumpfroggy 8 years ago  |  last reply 2 months ago