Connect Arduino UNO to a Laser with TCP/IP or RS232 protocol

Hi everyone, I am trying to comunicate with a Laser via ethernet or RS232 but I realy don't find enough information in internet to make my sketch. For TCP/IP, I am using a ENC28J60.CLK ---> D8SO ---> D12SCK --->D13SI --->D11CS --->D10VCC --->3,3vGND --->GNDYou will find attached the manual for TCP/IP comunications that the laser company gave me.Finaly for RS232, I tried to use the TTL-RS232 module (MAX3232) to comunicate but I was not able to make it works. (attached the manual for RS232 comunications that the laser company gave me.RXD ---> RX 0 TXD ---> TX 1VCC ---> 5vGNS ---> GNDPlease could somebody helps me with the code. Thank you,Jonathan

Posted by JonathanP233 3 months ago


Archives

Where are the thousands of Instructables I have seen in the past? Is there an archive page? Thanks

Posted by nedwired 2 months ago


PVC pipes and winding Tesla coils....

There are still people out there playing with high voltage.And one big problem when it comes to Tesla coils is winding the secondary coil.Now, I won't go into the details and options of the actual winding part, instead I would like to share some tricks that might make things easier for your project.Whether you wind fully by hand or make use of some mechanical winder, magnet wire is a very slippery thing on PVC.For that reason and some others we usually wind as tight and close as possible.Any leftover spaces that you find after the winding is finnished will severly compromise the overall tension of the wire in this region if fixed.Next problem is what many call aging.No matter how good you coat your coil with varnish or paint it will start to degrade over time.I found a simple fix for these problems :)Well, not really that simple but I am too lazy today to make a full Instructable for just an addition that everyone can make in a few minutes....Let me start with idea behind it all:I noticed that no matter how thick the pipe or wire is that there is little to no chance at all to get any of the coating material through the wire and all the way down to the PVC.One coil failed after I abused it so I did some cuts and had a close look with a magnifying glass.The coil itself was really good covered but it was like a sleeve that sits on the PVC with nothing on the underside of the wire except for a few single spots.Some people will now say to just a much thinner mix for the coating to allow the stuff to sweep through but that does not always work.One big issue I noticed is that not all paints or varnishes actually stick to PVC.Especially those non smelling eco friendly ones most places now sell.This means when the coil expands due to the vibrations and heat the wire can simply rattle off the varnish or the coating itself can crack under the stress.So I thought there must be a way to fix this right at the winding stage....PVC is a good insulator too!So why not use PVC instead of messing with other things?My first attempt here works quite well with thin wire and goes like this:Go outside with your winding rig and have a bottle of PVC primer and a little brush or sponge ready as well as some gloves.If you have use a friend, if you have none make a small rig to hold the sponge right in front of your winding area.The key is to keep the sponge wet with the primer so it will wet the pipe properly.Best is to have the speed and distance set so the surface just starts to dry off under the wire.The primer will cause the PVC to soften, so the wire slightly sinks into the surface.An automatic winding rig is best here as it allows for consistency.There is no too much or too little here is nothing drips terribly and your wire sticks without fully sinking in.Once done you can cover the winding with your prefered coating.For thicker wire, lets say 0.3mm or thicker, I now use a similar way but with more preperations:Using some very rough sandpaper on a belt or vibrating sander I create a small pile of PVC dust.If you prefer some fancy color you can use ABS plasic here too and it dissolves in a similar way.The resulting mix should be free of lumps and of even color, if in doubt use more primer.Consistency should be a bit thinner than honey, if yours is too thin you can add more ABS/PVC or let the primer evaporate off while stirring it every now and then.To get a good start I do a few turns dry first with quite a big spacing.When approaching the actual start of the winding area I use some stick tape to make the last alignment and start to apply the mix onto the first bit of the winding area.Some lint free cloth with a bit of primer is used to wipe off any excess towards the still uncovered part of the pipe.Every time the mix on the pipe dries out too fast a brush with some primer is use to wet it.Every time the excess runs out a bit more mix is applied onto the wound area.The key is to only have a small area in front of the winding covered with mix with the most is on the winding and "cleaned" off towards the empty area.This way the entire wire is covered by PVC all around.To finnish off you simply use a brush and paint the mix onto the rotating coil until you have an even finnish.What are the downsides?The primer stinks and is certainly not healthy to breathe in. So good ventilation is a must have and it works better in colder temeratures as it gives you more time.It might require some test runs with braided fishing line or similar to get a feeling for how much mix or primer you need to apply and how much max tesion you can use to preven the wire from sinking in.Any benefits?IMHO using this method makes it possible to get a proper bond between the PVC pipe and the wire.And by using PVC or ABS as the coating there is little to no change material properties.This in return gives far less chances for vibrations or wire expansions that result in failing insulations.The whole thing just is one piece of PVC with the wire embedded in it instead of having a wire on top of the PVC with some coating above. ;)Are there alternatives to the PVC primer?If Acetone is much cheaper than you can use it but the same safety measures apply and the mix might dry a bit quicker.What if I need a break or stop the winding for one reason or another?Simply wipe off all access and stop with just enough tension on the wire so you can star again with no problems.Then start by wetting and applying the mix and continue winding as before.

Posted by Downunder35m 2 months ago


Knex Sig 552

Hello, this is my Knex Sig 552. It was pretty cool because it looks fantastic. It was a very cool gun. It shot very well and held around 15 blue rods. It used some micro Knex which wasn’t that bad. It had a removable magazine to. The sights were also pretty cool to.

Posted by Blue Mullet 5 years ago


Looking for help with making a coils

I am wanting to make a rodin coil, like the second picture I included, except I don't have a 3D printer and I don't necessarily feel like dropping $200 on buying one and learning how to use it just to make a coil. So I'm asking if anybody would want to 3D print, ABS is fine, a Rodin coil for me? I have a PayPal account so we could work out a mutually agreed-upon price and I'll pay for shipping. I will also cover the the shipping cost. 76five, for6O, fourOsix9 shoot me a text ( that's my Google Voice number obviously I wouldn't give out my real cell phone number LOL)

Posted by DonS165 2 months ago


How does one choose the right 100k potentiometer?

I am building a pickup winder... a simple machine that winds hair-thin copper wire around magnetic poles.I need to build a 12V DC geared electric motor speed controller. I bought the following...12V DC 1000RPM geared electric motorLCD punch digital counter with a magnetic proximity switch12V Double-Pole Double-Throw (DPDT) ON/OFF/ON toggle switchDC12V 2A Power Supply Adapter: AC100-240V to DC12V I know that a DC motor controller can be purchased for around $5-10, but since I am brand n00b to electronics, I want to take the opportunity to learn as much as I can by building everything (or as much as makes sense) myself. I found this Instrucable on building a DC motor speed controller. It seems simple enough, however, when I go to the Digi-Key website and look for 100k Ohm pots... there are a lot to choose from. I do not care about form factor. I have no size restraints or aesthetics. I just need a knob... that I can turn... that will allow me to set it to zero, switch the machine on and have the motor not turn at all... then slowly begin to spin as I turn the knob up to 10, and it is spinning at its top speed (1,000 rpm). This is the motor, this is the power supply, this is the counter, and this is the switch that I bought for this project. According to the instructable referenced above, I need: an IRF3205 mosfet, a 100k ohm potentiometer, and a heatsink. I do not yet have the vocabulary to even properly Google "How to tell which 100k ohm potentiometer works with a 12V DC motor..." Can someone please point me in the right direction?

Posted by Dolmetscher007 2 months ago


Halloween Costumes

I need to make a costume for Halloween. I need to make a costume from scratch (or not) that will end up as Dorothy from The Wonderful Wizard of Oz. Any suggestions or advice or help?

Posted by blinkyblinky 7 years ago


My draft does not want to upload...

Hi everybody,I decided to write my first instructable. It all went ok with text and inserting pictures but now it remains in my draft folder and I can not figure how to get it published...Can anybody assist me?THANKS !!!!Christophe.

Posted by Christophe - Beau Du Ciel 2 months ago


Right glue for the job

HI ThereI know this is not a craft question but does anyone know the type of glue that would be good to stick a piece of floor vinyl back to concrete floor. I have a small piece which has been torn and keeps flapping up its driving me mad and I don't want to just tape it down. many thanks LB

Posted by bilesl 2 months ago


Arduino Help (again) - For some reason map() is messing up my analogRead value

Hi again.I am still messing around with this Arduino and have hit another barrier. I have given up on the last idea. This time I am trying to make 5 LED's light up as I turn the potentiometer. I assigned all the pins to what they were (names and pinMode() ). I then, just to see if I was actually getting the wanted value, I made it write to the serial monitor. Before using map(), when turned fully one direction it read 0 and when I turned it to the opposite side, it read 1023 (which is correct). I tried mapping it and then read the value. It would start off at 400 (with no interaction with the potentiometer) and drop all the way down to around 330 (when it was mapped with a toLow value of 1 and toHigh value of 5 (because I have 5 LED's)). Here is the code...(Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks)int ledPin1 = 0;int ledPin2 = 2; int ledPin3 = 4; int ledPin4 = 6; int ledPin5 = 8;int potPin = 5;void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once:pinMode(ledPin1, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin2, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin3, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin4, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin5, OUTPUT);pinMode(potPin, INPUT);Serial.begin(9600); }void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: int potPin1 = map(potPin, 0, 1023, 1, 5);int potPinVal = analogRead(potPin1);Serial.println(potPinVal); delay(1);}

Posted by LOU_DEW747 2 months ago


Automatic LED light for cordless drill?

As far as I know, DeWalt has not incorporated lights into their cordless drills as some other manufacturers have.  Could someone make an LED light which would come on when the magnetic field produced by the drill motor is sensed?  Perhaps a sensor taped to the drill body, and a small LED light pointing forward, or a ring of light around the drill chuck?

Posted by jonwells 8 years ago


Need help making this bunk bed a reality!

So, I want to do this project with my kids. They’re 5 and 7, and I want to start early in educating them that all this stuff that surrounds them is made by someone, and that someone can be them...Also, they want a bunk bed. :)Take a look at the photo...Can anyone help me turn this picture into a design? I’m pretty handy, but I’d love it if someone with the carpentry-and-CAD skill intersection could take a crack at turning this pic into something I can use...Best,Dutch

Posted by DutchFlyer 4 months ago


I am a Premium member but cannot download items

I was already logged in and was viewing an item that I wanted to download. However, I made the mistake of clicking on 'upgrade to Premium' rather than 'login'. Now I cannot download anything: I am simply asked if I want to upgrade or not. The upgrade option requires another payment, so I don't want to follow that route. I cannot correct this fault by logging out and logging in again, or closing and reopening my browser. Help!

Posted by Bradscopegems 2 months ago


Large motors and electronics classes

Hello,Is it just me, or there's something wrong with "Large motors" and "Electronics class" by randofo? It looks like there's nothing in comparison to just yesterdady, whereas I bought a premium account just to download his classes. Another problem is that I can not enroll or download any classes.Can You help me?

Posted by Emerid 2 months ago


Torque to linear thrust through lead screw

Hi,I am trying to figure out maximum linear force I can produce with an electric motor through use of lead screw and nut. I have come up with an equation which seems correct but resulting forces are way higher than my intuition believes is correct.I tackled the problem from the perspective of energies:F' * p = M/r * 2*π*rlinear force * thread pitch = torque / radius [M/r = force at radius] * circumference of lead screwF = 2*π*M/p * (1-k) //k stands for coefficient of friction between lead screw and nut)Radius falls out of equation, which seems fine as force is provided by torque, which is radius agnostic. I used a 7€ stepper for source of torque which can provide 0.42 Nm of torque and a lead screw with 8 mm pitch and 4 mm radius, I assumed 15% losses. My equation tells me that such system can provide 280 N of force, which seems wayyy too much for a cheap motor.I have attached a python code that calculates linear force in case it helpsCan someone tell me if my equation is either correct or flawed?

Posted by ptkrf 2 months ago


Help Replace Discontinued Range Hood Vent Fan Switch

The variable speed fan control on my Thermador HT48HQS hood vent does not work and the replacement switch is no longer available.  I'm looking for some help in making a new switch.  The Thermador VTR1000Q motor is mounted on the roof and controlled at the hood with a variable speed control knob. The motor is rated at 115V 60Mz 7.8 Amps. Photos of the switch assembly are attached. From what I understand, the speed control knob is a potentiometer that regulates the speed by proving a range of amps from 2.5 to 8? If I could make a variable speed control that would be great.  But I'd be more than happy to have create an on/off toggle switch or a toggle for low on/off high.  Can anyone help me?

Posted by Cjmacyogiboo 2 years ago


Electronic repair after a voltage spike or power surge

So far I was lucky and never got a lightning strike or other power failure to induce high voltages into my house and equippment. But over the time I got several requests from friends to take a look at things after literally all connected electronics in their house got fried. In some cases there is only a total write off as due to a lack of surge protectors inside all unwanted juice made it's way into vital components. Like a brand new Samsung TV where the replacement of the power board was the only option - which makes you wonder... But in other cases, like microwaves, induction cooktops, computers and such I had some good success with the repairs. Guess it comes down to purs luck on both sides, power surge was not too bad and simple components on the input side failed quickly enough to prevent damage to microprocessors or other sensitive parts. Right now I have an induction cooktop here again that failed after a mains transformer in street blew up during a thunderstorm. I can tell it was bad as everything in the area of fried parts has a vaporizsed metal film on the surface and not much is left that was a surge protection. I cleaned all up, replaced the varistors and missing parts of the traces on the circuit board but the cooktop is not performing the way it should anymore :( At some stage during cooking it turns off with a meaningless error code stating the input voltage was out of bounds. So my next attempt was to literally remove every single component from the filter and power supply board to measure for any possible connections between the traces. By doing so I noticed several points where I had a quite high but measurable resistance in areas where there should be none. Mostly on the direct input side where the varistors tried to save things. So I used my Dremel in a tin drill press to cut the circuit board aourd the affect areas (where possible with a drill, otherwise with a thin grinding disk).. Sure enough I was greeted by charcoal colored dust in several areas. After removing all material until the dust was "clean"  tried again and this time all seems to work fine. I would like to use this topic to offer some help and guidance in case you have devices that suffered a severe power surge of some sort. Many of us either have no insurance to replace those items or even if you do the device might be expensive enough to try a repair despite getting it replaced. Trust me, even it went up in smoke there is still a chance to fix it in some cases and if proper protective circuits were in place the repair could as cheap as a few Dollars for replacement parts. To get useful advice the following things should be included in your request: Some clear pictures showing a close up of the affected parts - if there is visibale damage to be seen. A brief description of what happened, e.g.: lightning strike directly into the house or outside power lines, generator or inverter failure or simply that the power company stuffed up and your entire street was affected. Of course you will need the means to take the device apart for investigation and also some basic soldering skills or somehow how has and can assist you. But if you are up to the challange I am willing to help if possible.

Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago


How much is granite worth?

So today I went down to some local woods with a hammer (Geode,granite,marble hunting) and I saw that 2 friends of mine had dug up a 20-30 pound rock. It was a heavy little bugger. So I swung the hammer at the rock for half an hour until I had about 30-50 small chunks of granite. The main reason I broke it was so that me and my friends could split it. One of my friends didn't want it. The other friend wasn't allowed to have it. All that was left was me. So I then realized that it was way too much to carry around. So I told another friends that didn't help do anything but polish the freaking thing with a brush *pauses and laughs* that I would give him all of it but 3 peices. I'm starting to regret saying that. So I wanna know... is granite worth anything/expensive?

Posted by Flumpkins 10 years ago


phone charger

My wall phone charger is busting up could i just make a usb charger out of it, and howdo i go about doing that, the phone is a samsung

Posted by Rotten 11 years ago


Why is it so bad that the small bakeries disappear more and more...

Everyone loves a good bread roll, a nice and freshly baked bread...But where does it come from and what is really in it?When it comes to bread and bread rolls we tend to think all is fresh, especially when you see that your favourite supermarket has a bakery with a real oven.Our local baker that took over the business from his father not only sees a thread but also is unable to compete with the price.The consumer only too often selects by price only if look and taste seem to be good.A bread roll for under 20 cents, a whole bread for just over $2 and I am not talking toast here...So how is such a price possible or how can a "bakery" provide 30 or more different types of rolls and bread with just one or two small ovens and a tiny kitchen area?The trick on a small scale is to use ready to go mixes, just add yeast and water and you are set to go.On a big scale we talk about dough that is frozen, sometimes pre-baked but alsways already in the shape of the finnished product.Since there is just flour, salt and yeast in it what could the harm?Like with soft drinks and alcohol not all ingredients are legally required to be listed.Enzymes, antioxidants, modifiers and more.The claim is that ingredients that disappear during the baking need not mentioning at all.If we check how these helping substances are made we get everything from bacteria and fungi over chemical compositions that are lab created and even things that are totally engeneered.Why use nature if you can made the substance in a lab...Most countries have authorities that deal with just these things and their use.So as long as every single ingredient is legal and does not require to be listed it is fair game.The problem here is that no one really knows what goes into the dough for these ready to bake frozen products.As we know from our chemistry lessons in school even totally harmless components can combine to a harmful endproduct.Especially enzymes are used to to modify everything from DNA over meat products to modifying the appearence and shelf life of a product.For most if not all the secret ingredients used we are assured they are conform with the local law and food regulations but we will never know where they came from or how they could interact with each other.Every dentist will tell you that cheap, white (so called) bread is pretty much the worst for your teeth.The usual claim here is that it is too soft, might contain too much sugar but in general the carbohydrates convert to harmful sugars and food for bacteria.These bacteria then harm your teeth...This alone however has shown to be a bit of a misjudgement.If you take the official ingredients on their own then their harm on the teeth is basically non existing.It is again the enzymes and their remains that do the hard work by providing the base to convert a lot of contents directly to sugars through these bacteria.If we now go a step further and consider that bacteria do a pretty good in our body to keep a healthy balance and convert nutrients for us we have to wonder...A thing of our modern time is alleries, same for intolerance to certain foods.The sources for these are plentyful but apart from shielding ourselfs agains all bacteria, viruses and germs in general food is a common factor.Regions with limited or no access to processed foods or drinks show little to no signs of our common allergies or common helth conerns like heart disease or obesity.When it comes to our bread products it is obvious that we consume a lot of it and simply trust the claims on the pack.Rich in omega 3 added fibres, wholemeal...A real baker starting shortly after midnight to produce fresh products for his customer will just shake his head.There are many studies that show us the quality of certain foods, also a lot that show how fast food is bad for you.But when it comes to investigating the bread we eat every day we only find meaningless informations.The long term effect of some of the "secret" ingredients in bread are however well studied in animal tests.Digestive problems, failing to make use of certain basic amino acids, an affected central nervous system and even behaviour abnomalities have been observed.Of course we can't really compare a rat or pig on totally overdosed tests with what we eat on a daily base.But if certain enzymes and other ingredients in our frozen bread mixes and also dry mixes can do this then it is safe to asume that some sife effects from long term exposure will happen too.An enzyme that might just cause a less sticky dough might also affect meat.Another ingredient that should keep the dough firm enough for production machines could cause your stomach lining to produce far less liquids that help digestion.And other ingredients that might just try to produce a more uniform expansion of the dough might break down other food products in your intestines so the body can not convert them into as many other building blocks as before.Sure, we trust the claim that the baking will totall remove all traces of all the things that are not required to be listed.But lab test will show quite opposite, especially when it comes to soft, fluffy "bread" in sliced form.Bread is one of the basic food items everyone needs, so if being able to provide it at an "affordable" price is possible than not too many will actually check the product as a whole.Imagine you buy a premium looking steak and on the pack it states it was made with meat glue - another enzyme.You would not buy it...Thankfully most countries banned the use of meat glues after to many cases of related food poisoning happened.Should have been obvious that cut meat will have more bacteria and that gluing such pieces will result in bacteria to grow inside the meat at fast rates.So if you now wonder why such things are not fully regulated and checked ask yourself: why do you buy the cheap bread from your supermarket instead going to support your local baker?Money...Don't trust my words here!Grab a bread from your supermarket and some bread rolls, then do the same at a real bakery and compare the products.After that check for the best time and grab a few cold beer to have a nice chat about factory made bread products with the guy who kowns how to make it.You might be suprised what he will tell you ;)

Posted by Downunder35m 2 months ago


Removing Broken M2 Tap from Anodised Aluminium 2014.

Hello Everyone,As you might have read, I have a Milled Aluminium 2014 Block which is Anodized with Black color, Today when I was tapping the holes of it, the M2 Tap broke and got stuck inside that hole, there is no portion of it outside the hole, so I can't unscrew it and pull it out.I saw a few videos on youtube on how to use alum water, or electrolysis(with 10% dil H2SO4) to dissolve or chemically remove the Tap bit from the hole, But my question is is it possible that using any of the above options could destroy the anodizing on the job work. and is there any other easy method I can use?Please Note that the tap bit is M2 and There are no tap extraction tools for a bit that small on the internet (or Locally Available in India) but if you find one Please post links for the same. Please Be Positive and make this community a happy place. Thanks.

Posted by _Boltz_ 2 months ago


HELP - Arduino - "Expected constructor, destructor, or type conversion before '(' token"

I have only just received this Arduino UNO and am trying to teach myself the language. I thought it wouldn't be that bad as I am already familiar with python, however, I was getting loads of errors (most of which I have managed to solve from searching through forums) and have landed on this one. I get this error - "exit status 1 - expected constructor, destructor, or type conversion before '(' token"This is my code...int ledPin = 0; //declares all different pins for different segments of displayint ledPin1 = 1; int ledPin2 = 2; int ledPin3 = 3; int ledPin4 = 4; int ledPin5 = 5; int ledPin6 = 6; int ledPin7 = 7;int inPin = 5; //declares analogRead pinint alphaValue = analogRead(inPin); map(alphaValue, 1, 1023, 1, 4) //maps 1-1023 to 1-4void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once: pinMode(0, OUTPUT); //declares pin types pinMode(1, OUTPUT); pinMode(2, OUTPUT); pinMode(3, OUTPUT); pinMode(4, OUTPUT); pinMode(5, OUTPUT); pinMode(6, OUTPUT); pinMode(7, OUTPUT); pinMode(5, INPUT); #define low digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); //defines 'low' digitalWrite(ledPin1, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin2, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin3, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin4, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin5, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin6, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin7, LOW); }void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: if(alphaValue == 1){ low digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin7, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin2, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin6, HIGH); } if (alphaValue == 2){ low digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin4, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin6, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin2, HIGH); } if(alphaValue == 3){ low digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin4, HIGH); } if(alphaValue == 4){ low digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin4, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin6, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin7, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin3, HIGH); } }

Posted by LOU_DEW747 2 months ago


US vs UK flour

Curious observation from my mother's recent 3 months in the USA, she says she is unable to bake well when she was in the USA. Now, given mum is a pretty amazing baker on this side of the pond,  I am wondering why that might happen ? I wondered if  its "American flour", as opposed to "UK flour" - the recipe, would be the same kind of things, memorised over the years, like a simple scone, fairycakes, pastry.  Her main complaint was that items didn't brown, even at the same oven temperatures as she uses here, and after repeated experiments with the same recipes.

Posted by steveastrouk 5 years ago


Help! mouse is being stupid!

HELP! My mouse has a clicking problem. In that; whenever i try to click, it doesn't work, and i find myself having to click multiple times with some force in order to get a result, but it's not consistent. Sometimes, it works straight off, and sometimes it takes upwards of 20 clicks, in order to get my computer to do anything. The problem's also isolated to only the left button, the right one's fine. I reckon it's just dirt or something in the mouse, but it's really inconvenient. Any ideas on what i can do to fix it? can i fix it? To give you something pretty to look at, here's a brass cog: Thanks for all the replies. I've just had the case off, and cleaned the rollers. I looked at the switch and there was no dirt packed around it. I clicked the switch without the case on and it still didn't work, which leads me to believe that it's actually the switch that's damaged, and therefore it's not worth trying to fix.

Posted by Vendigroth 10 years ago


waterproof material?

Can someone tell me what material I can buy that is lightweight, molds like clay, is waterproof and singeproof, and won't break the bank? does such a miracle substance even exist?

Posted by Karv 10 years ago


K'nex M4 Carbine

About time I made an M4 carbine. The farthest shooting/accurate and sturdiest gun i've made to date mostly due to the muzzle loading. WHAT!!! NO MAGAZINE!!! yep, it was abandoned due to horrible range and often jams. It's more of a sniper than an assault rifle and is extremely accurate with a grey rod + grey connector. It uses a modded dsmans barrel for maximum accuracy and distance, accuracy due to the barrel going through the forgrip. I also added a 4-railed foregrip for attachments such as virtical foregrip (shown in pic), bipod, dot scope, lights/lasers, or anything that can attach. Tell me what you guys think.

Posted by Trauts 10 years ago


I am looking to find out how to convert any letter or image to look like a cut stencil for marketing purposes.

Does anyone know how to convert any letter or image to look like a cut stencil for marketing purposes. I have attached what it is I am trying to do. I have cricut designspace and inkscape.Any help would be appreciated.

Posted by kprescod 2 months ago


Pinterest image rotated, bug?

Anyone having issues with images rotating when they try to share in Pinterest? When I try to share, some of mine have their images rotated 90 degrees. Attached a screen shot. Anyone know a solution to this? I emailed support to see if they have some suggestions.

Posted by jpmarth 2 months ago


Will replicate any gun*

Yup you give me a gun and I will replicate it* I just don't know what to build but I really need something to post NOW! I'm trying to build my rep up even more so I'm hoping to have at least 10 replicated guns before the end of this summer. Please leave me a good picture of the gun or a link to it. I have the right to reject any gun that I feel I either dislike (miniguns) are too simple (sten) or too complex (uh...insert some very complex weapon here)*will not make anything that involves explosives unless I feel like having an extra grenade launcher or something. I have enough pieces to make most weapons but still limited so nothing big. I will also not make a random gun with just requested features it has to be a real gun.Edit: To encourage people to vote for a gun I'm going to list the features I hope to include in the gun if I do make it.~List of guns~SAW-1 I'll try adding a chain either for actual loading or most likely looks not sure what else yet.M1 Garand-2 I'll probably try a similar loading style.MP5-1 Detacheable mag plus extendable stock.FN F9000-2 (just one more vote) Bullpup design and...well I'm not sure what elseDragunov-1 Detacheable mag and I'm not sure what else but there will be more.You may either place one vote or add your own. I'm only taking 2 more requests bofore you have to vote on one of the choices. If you vote for someone's idea then please post so in a reply to their weapon so I can keep track of how many people voted for it.I'll probably hold this topic until one of the guns (or an new suggested gun) gets 3 votes so hopefully it won't be too long. Then I'll build the next to reach 3 and so on. New guns will be able to replace the old ones in the list that get built.

Posted by TheDunkis 10 years ago


Polishing small or very detailed metal parts - the easy way ;)

I should not get hoocked on the cummunity side here again but well, I am bored today...If you have a vintage car, some old steam engine models or even really old clocks then you know my pain.Copper, brass and sometimes aluminium was used and if not cared for in time they nice shine goes first.Dirt and dust come next.And with more time passed we start to consider leaving it as the polishing would take forever.Take one of my "hobbies": old mantle clocks...Literally everything inside is brass.Now polishing a bass backing plate with some holes is quite easy if you have an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the debris out of the tiny holes when done.Even tried to polish a sprocket or fine spring mechanism?If spoked then this is a really painful job.But the same is true if you have old copper and brass ware, like these old stenciled pictures on copper sheets.No matter what you try these jobs end up to take more time than what you imagined and in many cases fine details are left oxidised or filled with the polishing compount.Now imagine you could get rid of these tarnishes and discolorations without cramps in your hand and bying all sorts of polishing products?Sure there are the well known brands that polish a lot of metal with ease by simply wiping over them.But they use harmful and often toxic chemicals and are still no good for really fine details like grooves or emossed stuff.Wearing gloves and protection is often a must and at least I can't stand the stink of them.We all know how to clean our dishes, even how to get the dried on lasagne from last night off the dinner plates.So why not do the same with our brass, copper or aluminium parts?Just use a spongue, rub and wipe a bit, rinse off and let dry.Ok, those who tried before reding the rest might be a bit angry now as it does not work that easy.Well, actually it does, just don't use dishwashing liquid :)Let me give you two of the worst cleaning problems I encountered first:You did some very fine brazing to create something nice from brass or bronze.The flux you can wash off, but polishing the discoloration from the heat and resulting oxidisation will take longe than the brazing job.The other ecounter was the restauration of a petromax style blow torch of alomst 60 years of age - but thankfully it was never used for more than decoration.All brass and a lot parts impossible to polish due to size and being quite delicate.Now we all have ways to spend a lot of time and being creative to use normal ways of polishing.And, yes I did so myself for many years and kick can myself now too.Since we can't do any advertising here and I clearly don't want to promote any brands or harm other brands by rendering their costly products useless I need a way out that helps everyone.So, again, I am not trying to promote anything here!However I noticed someone in my favourite restaurants kitchen polishing some dark copper pot to a mirrow shine in less than 5 minutes!I was shocked and asked the manager to explain what I just saw.He was confused to say the least..."We clean our pots every day, sometimes more depending on what we cooked in them."Sure but what do you use to do what I need several hours for in minutes and with better results?"Just water and soapy powder to shine the metal sir. All natural product."Omg god or Kali! What makes it shine so quickly?"Shining powder sir!" - mind you the poor guy was now totally confused and worried, while I started to loose my insanity.He noticed the look on my face and went into the kitchen.Gave me a fance looking bag that apart from a lot of Indian writing I could not make any sense of stated "Shining powder" on the pack.When the manager saw the look on face this time he laughed and asked "How do you clean your copper pots sir?"I was speechless and just said with much more time and elbow grease...He packed about thimble worth of powder for me to try and said it would be enough for a medium sizde pot, just use a wet spongue and put a little bit of powder on it.And guess what the stuff worked as good as in the restaurant :(I can't even count how many hours I wasted polishing copper or brass parts with fine details.Or engine parts from aluminium with brass parts inside....With this stuff you just wipe and tough cases rub a bit harder and all is done in literally seconds.In tight areas or those with fine details you use a fine brush like those for painting in water colors.And with that and a spongue you clean even the finest details with ease.In an ultrasonic cleaner it even works on areas you can't reach, just wipe what you can reach and see somehow and it shines.Now if you want this magic stuff and check if the guy here is just pulling your leg then be prepared to pay a lot of money.200 grams of this powder will set you back between 5 and 15 bucks depending on where you shop.That is enough clean about 300 midsized copper pots or a few hundret meters of copper piping....Just ask for shining powder in your Indian grocery store ;)We all waste money or stuff we don't need, so if you have coper, brass or aluminium to polish then try washing it the Indian way - just for fun of testing something else.And if after that test you think the few bucks and information was well worth it than please post your experience with the powder in the comments below.I hope all those members here working with these metals will read this too, so if not help me to spread the word please ;)I am struggling to upload some pics I have taken from the blow torch but will try again alter once I reduced their size.If in doubt I will upload them to a hoster and link them.Disclaimer:I don't advertise, I don't promote!However I am so pleased with this dirt cheap product that I use it now as my prefered and natural option.For this reason I think it is worth sharing.It is not a magic cure! If you have pitted areas, solder marks or brazin coming out of joints it will not help.Same for scratches, they still require abrasive polishing to be removed.But normal dirt from being displayed for years, oxidisation and even slight discoloration from corrosion will vanish.And if the surface has a good polish underneath all this than it will come back with ease ;)

Posted by Downunder35m 2 months ago


Arduino or Teensy coil winder - any code already out there?

I am in the process of deciding on a normal 8bit Arduino platform or a Teensy for my coil winder project.A found some interesting projects online, some with the code available too.But I was wondering if someone already implemented more than just winding a coil in such a project?At Krux.org is a nice winder based on a normal Arduino while the Alba winder uses a Teensy already to gain more precision and speed I guess.Misusing some printer or CNC code to be able to generate coils by G-code sounded nice at first but turned out to be more complex than actually required.My goal is actually rather simple despite the size and all, so let me try to explain what I want to be able to do:Have a modular winder setup so basically any winding task can be done with just two stepper motors.One for the spin, one to position the wire.Additions like limit switches and external counters are nice but usually not required for such a task if the the code is properly done.As a basic winder like all the examples out there it should be possible to just enter the wire diamter and number of turns and then push a button to wait for the finnished coil.In theory things like pitch or spacing can be calculated externally and then entered as a fictive wire diameter but of course this would be not user friendly enough ;)For special RF coils it is often required to keep an even turn spacing as well as creating a coil with many layers.So far I have been unable to find any usable code for this purpose that does not require glue, guides or at least waxing the wire.Although this seems to be simple enough, when adding things like a display and counters it soon starts to get messy with timings and steps.Is there anything out there that works properly on a 8bit processor with reasonable speed?Originally I wanted to use an OLED with touchscreen.This turned out to be too much for the timing on a Mega.Without messing around with timers and interrupts it seem a 20x4 LCD is the only option.Even then the refresh must be in sync with the tart of a new turn as otherwise the motors miss some steps here and there.These things run a 3D printer or little laser cutter with ease, so I am definately doing something wong with my approach here LOL

Posted by Downunder35m 2 months ago


3D Printer Thermistor in a K type thermocouple

Hi all,Quick question before I butcher something unnecessarily.Can I connect a bog standard thermistor as found in Chinese 3D printer (of which I have spares) to a k type thermocouple plug (I have none) and use it in my k type thermometer?Or should I just buy the slightly more expensive correct lead?I want to monitor temps @ the heat break of a new hot end.

Posted by Squibo 2 months ago


Going to sleep with HP monitor

So I am trying to help my grandparents fix there computer, they have a dell pc ( don’t know what exactly ) and a hp 22cwa monitor. The monitor will stay on in tell I plug the hdmi in then it says no signal then goes to sleep mode, I have tried new mouse and keyboard on the computer, as well as using another cord on this monitor and pc but neither work. I did take the monitor to my pc and used the same cords and it instantly worked with both cords just fine. Before today this monitor has been working for almost 6 months with no problem and now is randomly doing thos

Posted by huongrio 2 months ago


Resources for Teachers

Are you a teacher, boy scout or girl scout troop leader, or an educator of another sort?  If so, we'd like to help you out, give you a free Pro membership, and learn more about how Instructables can be more useful to you and your students.  Just click the GET TEACHER PRO button on this page: https://www.instructables.com/teachers/. Fill out the form and wait for the pro membership fairy to upgrade your account. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or just want to talk about project-based learning, drop us a line at service at instructables dot com. We look forward to hearing from you!

Posted by canida 8 years ago


Plushie: CAD program for Stuffed toys and Inflatables

This is an awesome tool for designing teddy bears, stuffed animals, and big inflatable items with complicated shapes. It's called Plushie, and it looks incredibly easy to use. It's kind of like Sketchup, but for blobs of stuff. You just start drawing in 2D, and it makes smart guesses at the volume that you're trying to create. Once you're done, it generates the pattern for you that you need to cut out. Here's their cool video: It's a Java-based Windows app. Someone should definitely make something with this!(I found this via the We Make Money not Art.)

Posted by nagutron 11 years ago


Split Tesla coils anyone?!

I am collecting data in the form of old pics, patents, newpaper and magazine articles as well as just doing things.Tesla coils are fun but is anyone experimenting with the original "multiplying transformer" that Tesla created?And before you say, sure I have a Tesla coil......I mean:Large diameter primary coil with one part of the secondary in very close proximity while the other half of the secondary is located at the center ;)

Posted by Downunder35m 3 months ago


Wanted: Looking for EMPTY Nitrous Oxide Canisters

Looking for EMPTY, only empty, Nitrous Oxide canisters.. the small kind, for like airguns or whipped cream.

Posted by laminterious 10 years ago


Remote control damaged, how do i train my dth remote?

My TV Remote control damaged and it is not working, now how do i train my dth remote?

Posted by SrinivasR45 2 months ago


Find or How to Replace Old Dried Out Gaskets in a Set of 4 Ceramic Kitchen Canisters

We have a set of 4 ceramic kitchen canisters that are so old the foam seals, or gaskets, have dried out. I cannot find replacement gaskets anywhere. They were made by an individual, so there is no company to write to for replacement parts. Does anyone know who sells such gaskets? Foam or rubber or silicon will work.Or, is there a way of making replacements? I've seen amazing things done on "instructables" with silicon; molds, fake heads, toy octopus, etc. But I have never worked with it. Is it OK for a seal that will be in close proximity with salt, sugar, flour?The canisters are glazed ceramics that some individual has made.Attached are photos of the canister, mating surfaces, and existing gasket.Any suggestions will be appreciated.Thank you.Phil Brown, Southwest Wisconsin

Posted by oghk2000 2 months ago


Looking for Used Lighter

Looking for used disposable lighters, preferably bic, for an art project for class about sustainability. Any size will work. please let me know if you have some I will be happy to pay for shipping.Best,Spins

Posted by jspins123 3 months ago


Chaining 4 74HC595 shift registers together

I have a question about chaining 4 shift registers together.I am going to be sending data to four shift registers and my question is this, when all four are loaded and latched if I send more data is it possible to only send data to the first register in the chain without the others losing their values?

Posted by mbcharney 2 months ago


The indestructable bike lock! ...Idea

The indestructable bike lock: the forum topic that was posted undeniably just to annoy the future patenters!So I had this weird idea for a product come out of nowhere. Y'know how aluminum is supposed to make cutting wheels on an angle grinder gum up, stick, and shatter - when trying to cut it, that is? I was wondering, what if a company engineered a special type of aluminum alloy or a similar material that would do just that: gum up abrasive cutting wheels and make them stick/bind and shatter. Then like with layers of plywood, it would be sandwiched together with hardened steel, in the shape of a U-lock bike lock, making it: Impossible to cut through with a hacksaw, reciprocating saw, TCT bladed portaband , because it's hardened and would wreck the teeth. Impossible to cut through with an angle grinder or rotary tool with an abrasive wheel because the aluminum would gum it up. Impossible to cut through it with bolt cutters - obviously... Impossible to freeze it with freezing gas? I don't know. I heard that's what thieves do. Maybe that aluminum alloy would be a super-insulator and wouldn't allow the hardened steel layer to freeze and become more brittle?I think it might just be invincible until the portable cordless battery powered waterjet is invented!Thoughts?

Posted by Yonatan24 5 months ago


Slip ring

I am looking to build a rotating electrical connector, better known (in the electrical world) as a slip ring.The basics (my layperson terms) would include a stationary ring (fed by a power source AC/DC) and a rotating ring having 2-4 connecting points being in direct contact with the stationary ring allowing for power to be supplied to moving (rotating) devices connected to the connection points of the rotating ring.

Posted by Bill Haas 3 months ago


Has anybody tried painting LEDs?

Because the colors available just aren't enough and we want more. *glances at collection of smt LEDs then at collection of nail polishes* The odds of me blowing up an LED or setting something on fire are slim, right?

Posted by aliasjanedoe 9 years ago


Cheap ideas

Looking for cheap ways to make something out of tension wire spool.

Posted by DUMB8 2 months ago


Making a water heater from a soldering iron?

I have got a soldering iron  of  60W, (with a damaged tip). And the main purpose of this project is to make a low power water or coffee heater with things you already have.  Im not a tech savy, but i know that the iron has a 2 pin socket. So, if you dip it directly in water, u'll get a shock if you touch the water. Another modification is needed- the heating rod.  the rod is made of crude iron, which can easily rust, and the tip has some leftover solder, which can poison the coffee.  can someone help in this?

Posted by arnab321 7 years ago


Advice needed on adding a Wind Turbine (generator) to a DIY PV Solar System.

I have bought a 12 volt FD-300 300 watt wind turbine to add to my 12 volt DIY solar setup. The solar setup consists of 3 home made 70 watt panels on a single axis tracker charging 6x 12 volt 85 ah batteries wired in parallel (510 ah total) through a 20 amp controller. I run a 12 volt fridge/freezer (120 liter) and my now 12 volt (was 240 volt) evaporative air cooler (cools our 3 bedroom house) off the controller load output. The wind turbine has an inbuilt regulator. The instructions for the wind turbine tell me to attach it's + and - wires directly to it's own dedicated terminals on the battery bank. This is of great concern to me. How can this be done when the batteries are already connected to each other and to my systems controller? If it can be done without damage to the batteries would I still run the appliances through the load output on my controller? Would the different charge limiters cause an issue? My controller cuts out at 13.7 volts while the turbines controller would want to allow a charge of 14.1 volts. The two controllers also have different lower limits. As you can see I'm confused and in desperate need of quality advice. Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Posted by Rob Patterson 9 years ago


Need Help Bypassing Surf Control "ACCESS DENIED" At School??

Hey guys it's me again, and I got a problem! Looking for some advice again! When I'm at school pretty much everything is blocked with this surf control and it says access denied. How and is there a way that I can bypass this?? NOTE: I HAVE ALREADY TRIED PROXY'S

Posted by rickick 10 years ago


Led on in sequence one by one

I want to make a circuit to turn on all led one by one. I tried to do it with 4017 . But that ic turn off the previous led but i want to tun on all led one by bye in sequence.

Posted by HoneyS26 6 months ago


Compact ight sensor switch with low voltage

Hi there,I've got a led light that's operated via a magnet, if it doesn't detect a magnetic field it turns on if it does it turns off. It's a led light for car door(check picture for reference) and uses 3x AAA batteries in my case 1.2v x3 (3.6v), if you use regular batteries it's 4.5vBy mistake I've order a tiny light sensor module 3.3-5v(check picture) which obviously can't be used as a switch, not in it's present form. While I'm good with solder, I've build an ebike, I'm a computer guy but when it comes to things like this like this make me feel powerless :( ..I 've used 12v light sensor switches but that's a different topic.So, how can I have a low powered light sensor switch that's compact and can save me from replacing the batteries frequent? ...the led light turns on even at daytime which has no point in doing that. I'd appriciate any help :D

Posted by Takisk1 5 months ago