Welcome to Instructables

On this page you can find links to some of our most frequently asked questions. What is this site? Instructables is a place that lets you explore, document, and share your creations. How do I post an Instructable? We offer a free and easy online class to coach you through posting your first Instructable or you can just wing it and start a new one today. How do I get help improving my Instructable?Ask the community for help in The Clinic. How does my Instructable get featured? The best way to get your projects featured is by following the Featuring Guidelines. Where can I learn more about contests? Our Contest FAQ has all of the information that you need to know about contests. What contests are launching soon? Check out our list of upcoming contests. Are you on social media? Yes! Follow us on Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter. How do I contact Instructables directly? The best way to contact us is through our Contact Page.

Posted by randofo 2 months ago


Very old and New topics getting mixed up

We are still getting very old topics (questions) and the newer ones mixed together.

Posted by rickharris 1 day ago


Share your Instagram account!

I've been instagramming for a long time, mostly focusing on my embroidery work! But yesterday I decided to start a new account for my instructables and more personal stuff, like plants and pets and selfies and whatnot. I'd love to see what y'all are sharing on instagram!! Please share your username or a link to your profile in the comments below so I can stalk you all friendly-like. :DHere are my instagram profiles: making jiggy hand embroidery jessy ratfink P.S. Need some help getting followers and likes on Instagram? Check out my instructable over how to promote yourself (or your business!) on Instagram!

Posted by jessyratfink 8 months ago


"dry box" for drying clothes in humid weather

Hi all,I'm thinking of building something helping me to dry my laundry in the amazingly wet weather that I'm getting in the place I live now.I searched instructables for a while, but did not find anything that really applies. This might be due to the fact that I'm both new to instructables, and not a native English speaker. I might be using the wrong keywords.So I live in a very humid and foggy place, and it's winter now. When I hang my clothes out to dry, the process takes ages. Sometimes I think it might be working backwards: the clothes become wetter. Also, an unpleasant byproduct is that my clothes become smelly, despite they are clean. Sometimes, as a last resort, I hang my clothes inside the house. But my house is very small, and I do not really have a place for the clothes hanger. Plus, the house gets very humid and I am afraid I'm going to get mold. On the other hand, I have a rather large balcony, with a lot of place for the clothes hanger.Of course I could buy a clothes dryer. I actually use a coin-operated one for large items, such as bed sheets and large towels. But I'd rather not use a tumble dryer for my clothes.However I recently learned about heat recovery ventilation for houses, and I started wondering whether the same concept could be used to build a small-ish enclosure (a box) where air is kept warmer and dyer than outside, possibily in a controlled manner. Also, it would be very nice to get energy from the sun. Surely the walls of this box could be transparent, or black, to create some kind of greenhouse effect. Then I need a fan, to have the air circulating. The air could go through a heat recovery unit. This could probably solar-powered. On the other hand, I am not sure that solar panels would be helpful for heating the inside of the box by night (energy should be of course stored, but I do not think that would be enough).I see that something similar to what I'm thinking about is already on sale e.g. on amazon. These are called "portable clothes dryers", but they do not seem really optimized. They look like a combination of a hair dryer, a clothes rack and a tent. I do not think there is a real heat exchanger, or humidity control...Plus, they do not seem really safe, especially if operated outdoors.Can someone give me some advice, e.g. pointing me to projects that use similar ideas possibly for different purposes?Thanks a lotFrancesco

Posted by pieffebi 1 day ago


Tempered glass screen protectors - understand and beware!

I recently had the joy of needing a new screen protector for my mobile after being dumb enough to drop it on gravel. The hard cover took all the impact but the film protector on the screen was scratched badly. Was old and partially worn anyway so I decided to upgrade to a Tempered Glass screen protector. Being somewhere rural I had no chance to get one in a shop so I ordered online. With no intention of advertising for some sellers, I collected a few links so you can check what I am talking about: Item1 Item2 Item3 Item4 Item5 Item6 So, what is my concern with these? They all can be found on amazon and other online services as well as on local markets... As I said I ordered a glass screen protector. If you check these listings and even some of the packing you will notice they all have a thing in common - being shatter proof and of 9H hardness. I also love this video showing how to remove and fix a glass screen protector! The last time I checked glass had one very distinct feature: It is hard and before it really bends it breaks - unless you use fibre optics of fibre glass cloth... What is my concern and warning here? Pretty simple: Stay away from expensive scams! Some claim their screen protector is only 0.25mm thick, even the 0.2mm one I measured was over 0.5mm with the glue... The hardness of 9H refers to the so called Moh's hardness - look it up on Wikipedia if you like. That means these tempered glass protectors would have a similr hardness than a diamond, or at least close to it. Problem is that they are made from plastic to start with and not glass at all. They claims that the screen protector is flexible because it is so thin - again a fake! Even the thinnest tempered glass will shatter if you bend it enough, not so these plastic ones. If you think I am making all this up try to use a really sharp knife or deburring tool and cut the thin sides of one of these protectors. All the ones I tested could be cut quite easy - and I though glass can't be cut with a kinfe... A nice website showing that the scratch resistance is far from the claims can be found here. And a video showing how a real glass screen protector sounds and breaks can be found here. So is it really all bad and should I avoid getting one? Not really if it is only for the added protection. To be clear here, and without the intention to blame any of the above sellers, some protectors actually do have a top layer made from glass and you can hear it as in the above video - it sound solid and not like plastic if you tap it with something hard. Another factor is the simple fact that plastic absorbs impact much better than glass. So where a real glass screen protector might shatter and crack like in the above video, the fake ones might one get a nasty dint or scratch. But you should be aware and clear about what you get and what to expect from it. These glass imitations are made from a strong polycarbonate plastic, similar to the stuff used for bullet and explosion proof "glas" windows - if you every watched the Mythbusters you have seen the big sheets I mean. The top layer of these things is specially treated to repell water, oil and dirt, it also gives the surface the good scratch resistance. The technique is nothing new, camera lenses, plastic sheets and the clear covers you see over the timetable at your bus stop all use it. The new thing is to intentionally mislable a product to make the consumer think it is glass ;) What is the real difference for the user? Check this video. Here a guy performs a drop test with a real glass screen protector. Thing is once the protector breaks the screen itself is broken too but until then it was not too bad. Here it is demonstrated how a real glass screen protector reacts to certain types of abuse - one of the reason I decided on glass. Compared to the plastic counterfeits just the sound on the glass is worth it, but I think the hacksaw was best. Another video from XDA gives a bit more info on how the glass is made - if you can't seeing a phone being abused then don't watch the drop tests at the end ;) Glass with these hardness levels and types of surface protection will give the user a long and worry free use of the phone. The plastic fakes will perform at a similar level for some time but will show signs of wear long before even the top coat of the glass one fails. Both types have their uses and if the fakes would be labeled correctly the user would actually benefit from that. On bigger screens like a tablet I would actually prefer the plastic ones to prevent damage once it needs replacing. On a mobile used in less than perfect conditions I would also go for plastic as it usually is a bit thinner and will fit better within quality hard covers. But when it comes to real abuse like using with dirty fingers most of the time or mostly outdoors where a lot of dust and fine sand can be involved I always go for glass. If you paid attention to the surface treatment then you already realised that the plastic and the glass are in the same region, making them quite scratch resistant. Still fine sand or metal dust will scratch it.... The difference is in the hardness of the actual material that was covered with the oleophobic film. Glass will not give in any way, where plastic is much softer - so not to be confused with the surface hardness! This mean that sharp and point object will easier penetrate the plastic than the glass, something to be considered if you often ecounter harsh use. In terms of actual protection we need to differenciate between surface quality and actual screen damage. After all when badly scratched we can replace the protector but if the display got damaged we are back to square one. The surface hardness was already covered so let's move on to the screen itself. In some of the above videos you can see the abuse a screen might see in normal conditions, and if we would not drop our phones so often repair shops would not be at every corner LOL I have done quite a few screen repairs, mostly for friends and work mates that did not want to pay the hefty extras in a repair shop. From there I got the stories on how it happened and in almost all cases the screen cracked when the phone landed on the corners. In one case the screen and glass protector failed, including the actual display when the phone was dropped out of a 4WD and landed screen first onto a rock. A glass protector will spread the (direct onto the face) impact force onto a much larger area, where a plastic one will produce a dint onto the actual screen much sooner. So again glass wins in terms of actually protecting your expensive screen. But be aware that all this is useless if the phone lands on the corners!! Let me explain: Both the top glass on your screen and the screen protector have a thin layer of "glue". This acts like a shock absorber, so unless an impact goes deep enough so the pressure on the actual screen is too much only the protector should fail. But the screen itself is a tight fit into the frame of the phone, so all side and corner impacts go directly into the glass. As the rest of the glass has no way to give or go the stresses will crack the screen. How should I treat my phone with the new screen protector? Exactly the same way you would without it of course. But if you don't have a proper cover that offers protection of the corners you should invest in one. Having a quality protector and a good case does not mean your phone can be used as a football, see it as an added insurance in case something does go wrong. For obvious reason it can also pay off to have a spare at hand, if something bad happens that requires replacement of the protector you won't be left with an unprotected screen ;) Last but not least, double it up: For people that already know their screen will see a fair bit of abuse in term of scratches it is a good idea to put an extra film protector onto the glass one. Once it is too scratched you peel it off and replace it, while the glass protector gives you the actual protection for your screen. Corning Willow glass As time of wrinting Corning Willow glass is the only "flexible" glass on the market, unless stated with your flexible screen protector you can assume it will be just plastic. I did not list it above as this high tech material is mainly reserved for displays and at least to my knowledge is not available for screen protectors, although I will stand corrected as I have to assume some big players use it for their protectors. The material is actually a sandwich where an ultra thin sheet of glass stis bewteen two layers of durable coating, read it up on their website it is quite interesting. It won't reach the strength of their famous Gorilla glass so without an outer plastic that has the additional oleophobic coating it won't provide the strenght of real tempered glass protectors. Some phones like the Galaxy Round and the fleixble HTC phones use it for example.

Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago


"Most Popular" ... ?

I was curious how the "Most Popular" section on the front page works, it's great and shows some wonderful Instructables, but I'm curious as to how an Instructable with just 67 views gets #1 on the list. Is it views / time? Comments / time? Thanks!

Posted by Kryptonite 7 years ago


How much angle or curve needed for bike trailer tow-bar?

I want to make a trailer for my bike, but am confused about all the various types/styles of D.I.Y. tow-bars I see being made/used...how does the curve/bend of the tow-bar affect whether the trailer will track correctly behind the bike? If the trailer does not track correctly behind the bike then the tires will be ruined over time, and it will cause more 'drag' (harder to pull). I understand that the tow-bar needs to be able to clear the bike's back tire when turning, but if I put the wrong angle or curve in the tow-bar will it cause issues with keeping the trailer straight behind the bike and tracking properly?So how does someone determine the correct angle/curve of the tow-bar, besides trial and error and possibly wasted materials? Thank you for your time and assistance.

Posted by Bsrlin 3 days ago


PWM to MPPT solar Charge Controller

I have an Hybrid Solar Inverter with 50A PWM solar charge controller inbuilt into it. It works on 24V battery bank. I am having 800Watt of PV module installed in the system. As my inverter is having PWM charge controller, I am not able to harvest maximum of power from panels. I want to know that, is there any arrangement or device which can be put in between PV panel and my Inverter which can increase efficiency or can act as PWM to MPPT converter for my Inverter? My Solar Pannels generates often 39V but I couldnt utilize the surplus power as it stepped down to 24 Volt.

Posted by Shashi BhushanS 3 years ago


The Clinic // Get help with your instructables!

Hello and welcome to the newest version of The Clinic! If you have an instructable that's not getting the attention you think it deserves, post it in the comments below for honest feedback and suggestions to improve it from fellow authors and Instructables staff. We want to help you create the best instructables you can! Curious about the basics of creating an instructable? Check out my FREE How to Write an Instructable Class! You can also read through our Featuring Checklist. Posting a great instructable has many benefits, including: More viewsMore comments and followersHaving your instructable Featured on the site Having your instructable featured on our social media accounts (Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest)Better chance to win contests Driving traffic to your websiteP.S. While I know the goal for any instructable is to get Featured, it's not the end goal here! We're sure to hand out features, but please keep in mind not every instructable is feature-worthy. Even the most popular authors have unfeatured instructables! Don't let it get you down - you're still amazing! :D

Posted by jessyratfink 3 days ago


DIY Scuba Tank (breath underwater)

I need some advice. I have a great idea that would be amazing if it worked. I want a small scuba/air tank whatever you want to call it (like a scuba secondary tank or a paintball co2 tank) that i can use to mess around with in a pool. I dont want to be constantly breathing, just enough to take a deep breath, go underwater and hold it for a minute, release air from the tank-take a breath, hold it, take another breath from the tank, hold it, and so on. Just enough to get a few breaths and be under water to last me for 5 or 10 minutes. The only thing is i dont want to have to fill it at a dive shop or from a tank that has to be filled at a dive shop like scuba secondary tanks. i want to rig it to fit a bike pump (which probably will not have enough psi to get the amount of air i want) or my air compressor. So i would like advice and also would i need an air regulator since im not constantly breathing? what could i use as a regulator if i need one at all? 

Posted by wdemarche 4 years ago


What is the most affordable laser cutter for a beginner?

I really would love to try out laser cutting. ..But have no idea what knowledge it requires. I want to be able to design and cut custom wooden puzzle, laser cut fabric and also to cut felt and foam. I would like to start up a small home business. Keeping in mind that I have no clue what knowledge it requires and also know that I have 4 kids and will have to have this machine in my home. I do own a silhouette cameo but unfortunately it does not cut felt or wood. It’s a fun machine for cardstock and all…but nothing heavy duty. So is it safe to have a laser cutter at home with kids?? I mean will the light or whatever that comes off the machine be harmful for my children? Also how much is the cheapest desktop version? Will it be able to cut large fabric? Can it cut 0.5” or 0.75” hard wood?? Would that be pushing my luck?? Please let me know…so I can start saving up for it. I really really love crafting….but availability of items and affordability is a big issue. Thanks!

Posted by shazni 2 years ago


Need help selecting a small motor for moving a small rig back and forth left-to-right only about 1 inch.

I have never worked with motors before, and I am starting to realize that there are dozens if not hundreds of different types of motors. Imagine two 6" long, 1/2" dia. aluminum rods suspended between two pieces or trapezoidal shaped plywood that are secured to a base and braced to make this whole structure rigid. on these two aluminum rods "rides" a small carriage that is literally just a small 2" x 2" platform made from... whatever... 1/4" plywood. This carriage can slide left and right on these two aluminum rods. I need a motor that can somehow move this little platform left and right, back and forth, only between 1/8" to 1". I need to be able to control the speed (rate) at which is travels this small distance.I also need to be able to control the starting point and the end (return) point. Basically, I and transferring string from one spool to another. So the platform will have a spool of thread on it, and it will be going left-to-right while another spool is turning. The left-to-right movement will be coordinated with the speed that the second spool is wrapping (turning) so that the thread windes as close to "perfectly" in layers. And each spool will be between 1/8 - 1/4 - up to 1" wide. This is why I need to be able to set the starting point, and the end point where it will stop and reverse direction. I will be controlling this with a project board like an Arduino. I just need to know what kind of motor to look for, and any other suggestionsThanks guys!

Posted by Dolmetscher007 5 days ago


Native iOS and Android App Retirement

Hello Community! In an ongoing effort to make sure that Instructables is able to focus its product development efforts where they count most for existing an new authors, we are officially retiring our native iOS and Android apps. Note that this does not affect mobile web. I expect continued investment in mobile technologies for years to come, but we will focus on the experience of people using Instructables through their mobile web browsers, rather than through downloaded apps. For those keeping score, this isn't exactly news. We have not released new versions of either app in over two years, and they have become steadily buggier and buggier during that time due primarily to changes in their respective environments. Android 2 and iOS 5 were current when we released them originally, and Android 7 and iOS 10 are very different beasts. Simply keeping up -- even without adding anything new or fixing any bugs -- requires a constant investment of development time from Instructables, and prevents that time from going to projects with greater impact. The original purposes for the apps were: 1) To lower the bar to Instructables authorship by providing direct access to upload photos taken on smart phones 2) To improve the browsing experience by making it faster Since they were released, mobile technologies have progressed to the point that #1 is no longer a concern. Our mobile web editor already has full support for uploading images directly from your phone. #2 is also coming into striking distance soon, as browser manufacturers begin to standardize their implementation of offline content for mobile web sites, sometimes referred to collectively as "progressive web apps". We'll be watching these technologies closely, and we'll be among the first to speed up your browsing experience with offline components when cross-browser solutions become available. We have already developed (and will continue to expand on) Accelerated Mobile Pages, which mean we display nearly instantaneously when you tap an AMP result on mobile from Google. You can identify these pages via a lightning bolt in mobile search results: In short, the reasons that we developed the native apps no longer apply, and we're dropping support for them in favor of putting those energies where they are able to have greater impact for the community: Mobile Web. The apps will soon be removed from sale from their respective download stores. For existing users who have downloaded these apps and are using them currently: feel free to continue doing so, though we would urge you to upload your Instructable Drafts to the website as soon as possible. While we don't expect the editing process to break, no support is available should you experience issues in the future. You can also use the apps to browse Instructables, though I believe there are already some issues that have started adding friction to this experience. Thanks, all, for your continued support of our vibrant community! ~Devs

Posted by pseaton 1 year ago


Circuit design

Hi, I’m hoping someone could help me. I’m looking to design a circuit for a college project that controls a 240v light. The circuit and light will be controlled by a switch however when the switch is first turned on the light needs to remain off (no power supplied) regardless of the amount of time the switch is on. If however the switch was turned on off and on again then the light needs to come on. Any ideas of a circuit and components required to produce something like this? Your help is greatly appreciated.

Posted by Worby10 4 days ago


Rotary Tool neck thread size

I have several ideas for rotary tool accessories that would make my life easier, but they would have to be attached at the neck. So I need to cut out a hole, and tap it out to the right thread size. Anyone know what that is?

Posted by BoomGuy 11 years ago


What kinds of contests do YOU want to see on Instructables?

Hi everyone! As we're planning contests for the next year, we wanted to get suggestions and feedback on the types of contests we're running. :D Is there a contest we ran years ago you'd like to see again? Any contests you're sick of? A weekly challenge you'd like us to expand on? Do you want the contests to be more specific or more open ended? We're trying to shake things up in contest-land - so any and all suggestions are welcome! I'm especially interested in what types of tech contests you guys would like to see, as well as ideas for food contests.  P.S. For anyone wondering about weekly challenges - we're still trying to figure out a way to do it that makes it easy for you guys to enter and easy for the editors here to run. But I promise we are discussing it! :) Have prize suggestions? Check this topic. Want to get a preview of some of our upcoming contests?

Posted by randofo 5 years ago


Prize suggestions and feedback needed! What would YOU like to win?

Hi everyone! Here at HQ we're always planning contests, but sometimes we run out of prize ideas. :D I would love to hear any and all suggestions for products you guys would like to win! I'd also love to hear feedback about prizes we've offered this year - what did you like? What didn't you like? Do you prefer getting a shiny new electronic toy or a prize pack more suited to the theme of the contest? Have a suggestion for a contest theme? Check out this topic!

Posted by randofo 5 years ago


How to get an instructable featured?

Hey can i know how to get an instructable featured my friend got his in a day?

Posted by iloveandroid 5 years ago


What can I do with Pro?

I recently recived a free 3 month pro membership for having my Instructable featured. (See the featured Instructable here.) But I don't know what I can do with Pro! What are some pro benifits, and how do I use them?

Posted by Chikpea 4 years ago


Is it possible to link Arduino modules with a portable induction stove?

Hi guys! I would like to get an opinion on my first ever project. I would like to link an Arduino module to my portable induction stove. I was hoping that it would be able to do this: ---------- START ---------- 0 min - Start recording sequence Press[Rec] Heating Value: 0 Systems records no change in heating level 1 min - Puts ingredients and increases temperature by 3 levels Press[Increase Temperature]x3 Heating Value: 3 System records an increase in heat by 3 levels upon reaching the 1st min. 7 min - Dish is heated up, let it cool for a bit, decreases temperature by 1 level Press[Decrease Temperature]x1 Heating Value: 2 System records a decrease in heat by 1 level upon reaching the 7th min. 9 min - Dish is cooked. Decrease heating level to 0. Press[Decrease Temperature]x2 Heating Value: 0 System records a decrease in heat by 1 more level upon reaching the 9th min. 9.5 min - Stop recording sequence Press[Stop] Heating Value: 0 System stops recording. Recording is saved and ready for 'reading'. ---------- END ----------- Upon completion of the recording, this set of sequence should be able to upload back to the stove to replicate an identical set of heat change with respect to time. As such, would this project be possible? I would like to modify on the existing parts on my stove that I have. It comes with an interface or some sort that is linked directly to the buttons on the stove. (the buttons available are some commonly used presets and timer settings and an increase and decrease button for the heating level and timer) Any opinions and feedback would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you very much!! - Eddie (Newbie in electrical and programming)

Posted by eddiewoo 5 years ago


An alternative to expensive grinding stones

For some people buying a decent grinding or honing stone is a lifetime investment.Prices of over $500 for a single stone of a very fine grid are not uncommon.But what about the average Joe who just needs to sharpen a knife or tool every now and then?If slicing and dicing is not your living than investing in a set of diamond plates might be better than getting a set of stones.But there are limitations, firstly their size and then how long they last.The later is really important if not used correctly as even diamond toold can be ruined quickly.In some case these small sharpening tools are hard to handle.The bigger plates can still be a pain if they don't come with a proper mount.Well, and if you forget to clean them after use and put them in a dry place it will be quite hard to remove the rust.A nice alternative I found is sandpaper, specifically sandpaper on a glass plate.Good wet and dry sandpaper is available from almost gravel to a 10.000 grid, above that you might have to make a special order.In general the finer the grid the more you pay due to the ingredients.I use a glass plate from and old scanner as they are both heat proof and really strong, window glass is not recommended here.The glass is covered with strips of kapton tape for the ease of later cleaning.The tape is then evenly covered with a contact glue, preferably the spry king to get an even cover.Same for the sheet of sandpaper.I try to get the glue over the glass edge a bit and to have at least two sides of the sandpaper going over an edge.Just to have an area to work close to the edge without risking to lift the paper off.Once a sheet is too worn I place the plat in the oven for a few minutes so the glue softens and peel the sheet off.If too much glue remians on the tape I replace it before I put a new sheet on.Of course you need a bunch of plates although it works fine with two different sheets halfing a plate.The thing works best under slow running water, so use your tinker skills to come with a suitable frame and water supply ;)But even with just a spray bottle it is a cheap way to replace a costly stone, especially if you do require a bigger surface area.

Posted by Downunder35m 5 days ago


I need to know how to make a dc male jack with battery clip

I have a dc male jack and a battery clip.separately.i need to know how to connect .this is from a project i saw in instructables.please help.

Posted by ABhiramS5 5 days ago


Why don't old /community/* urls redirect to new /topics/* urls????

All of the older links to a topics on Instructables link to instructables.com/community/page urls, but a while ago (I'm not sure exactly when) all the /community/* pages were moved to /topics/*. Clicking the old /community links returns a 404 error, which is annoying because then I have to manually replace the "community" with "topics" in the url. So my question is, why can't all the /community/*/ pages redirect to their respective /topics/*/ pages?

Posted by scitronboy 5 days ago


List of Upcoming Contests (updated 11/7/18)

Hello everyone! Below is a partial list of the 2018 contest calendar. Keep in mind that this list is subject to change and contests will continue to be added throughout the year. The contests below are already in planning, and I've left off ones that we're still trying to decide on. The months indicate when the contests will be launching. All contests will launch near the beginning of each month. Keep in mind that the list below is not set in stone. We always find fancy new companies to supply prizes so dates are subject to change!OctoberOptics ContestThis includes any project using lenses, prisms, filters or other tools for shaping light. Plastics ContestAll plastic, all the time.Side Dishes ChallengeWow us with your best side dish recipes!Electronics Tips and Tricks ChallengeShow us your best electronics tips and skills for your chance to win an oscilloscope!NovemberPuzzle ChallengeAll things puzzle related (with a special Tinkercad judges prize!). First Time Author ContestA contest specifically for all of the first time authors!Big and Small ContestBuild scale models that are either bigger or smaller than the original item. Make it Glow! ContestBack by popular demand, a contest dedicated to all things that illuminate and glow.DecemberBaking ChallengePrepare yourself for the great Instructables bake off!Holiday Decor ChallengeWow us with your best and most exciting holiday decor ideas.Toys ChallengeThis quick challenge is open to all homemade toys and toy mods.PCB ContestAny project that incorporates a custom designed PCB is eligible to win.JanuaryWarm and Fuzzy ContestThe warm and fuzzy contest is open to all cold weather sewing and knitting projects. *All contests subject to change. Please leave suggestions for prizes here. You can also leave suggestions about contests here. Have a contest question? Check the Contest FAQ!

Posted by randofo 5 years ago


Electric knife sharpeners.....

Back in the day we already had these tiny grinding wheel like tools in the kitchen.Plug it in, press a button and slide the knife through.The blade was supposed to come out razor sharp if you trusted the ads....For obvious reasons a grinding wheel moving along the edge is not a good thing, especially not if both te up and the down movement work on the edge.As soon as they appeared they disappeared only to emerge years later in a "modern" form.The latest incarnation now comes with ceramic wheels to give an even sharper finnish LOLThe problem however is still the same, first the action of the whells then the fact that it is next to impossible to get different angles.They are really only good for some knifes you use in the shed if nothing else is available.A now much hyped electric sharpener is basically just a tiny belt sander with guides attached to it.And don't get me wrong, they come in handy for certain works.But if you ever used a belt sander on a flat piece of steel you realise that it is quite impossible to get a flat surface finnish.The belt curves around the edge and this results in a curved or beveled edge.Obviously the claim to sell these is that a beveled edge has superior strength and sharpness compared to a straight angled edge.And then there is the ability to adjust not just the sharpening angle but als the grid of the sandpaper.The finer you go, the better the result and sharpness...Now if we trust those who create swords from raw iron ore then something is wrong with the belt approch.These guys would tell you that you should always use a flat stone and to slice a piece of the stone.But also that a beveled edge is a sign of wear, something a good butcher will confirm.The angle of the edge party affects how sharp and durable the edge will be.Usually there is a compromise between blade thickness, meterial and edge angle.Just go from razor blade to an axe and include severel types of knifes between them.So a beveled edge in my opinion is only good for brute force tools but not that good for fine slicing and dicing.I tried to sharpen a wood chisel on one of the belt sander toys...It turned out to be far less precise and the edge was not fully straight.Could be down to lack of experience but if you ever try it let me know your results.The produced edge was also quite unusal and often bad when used as intendet.Far more chipping than cutting.Difference between straight angle and beveled angle when using a knife.You might want to do some lonely woodworks while fishing.A good knife now just eats into the wood and lets you cut and slice pieces of at almost any angle of the blade.With a beveled edge however you face the problem that your working angle is drastically reduced.Tilt the knife a bit too much and you suddenly just slide off the wood and into your flesh.If you grind and hone a knife to a 20° angle on a flat stone than from all angles above 20° you can cut.If you belt sand a knife to a 20° angle you end up with a bow over this angle.The actual usable working angle can be as low as 40° on a thicker blade.In theory it is possible to overcome this bevel problem.Sanders with a backing plate for example or by using just enough pressure to take material off.The first will destroy your belts quickly, the second takes forever.Some people just sand the knife at an angle to the belt, so instead of having the belt running at 90° to the edge it runs at 60 or 40°.Reduces the buckle but also the sharpness as the actual edge is now rounded.The only real way to sharpen a knife would be with a cutting or slicing motion, something that usually cuts your belts once the edge becomes sharp enough.So should you use them after all?As with all tools it comes down to quality and how you use the tool.If you know what you do and what the limitations are an electric sharpener can save you a lot of time.Someone with a desire for razor sharp knifes and tools might only use them on the lawn mower...You can however very well use sandpaper for sharpening a knife, which I will explain in another post....

Posted by Downunder35m 5 days ago


From Anime to Reality

Someone was such a fan of Akira that they recreated Kaneda's bike from the manga and the movie. The bike is actually street legal and I'm looking forward to reports of it tearing it up in Neo Tokyo in vicious street gang battles. Extra bonus points if it manages to create light trails. Link

Posted by fungus amungus 10 years ago


(EMP generator)How can i make a long range EMP generator?

I have watched many video in youtube about, how to make EMP generator. But those EMP's range are really small, I want to make a EMP that can disable any electric device around me like, Disabling all the device in my room. So can Anyone help me with this??

Posted by harryt47 13 days ago


YouTubers who also post on Instructables

Who are your favorite YouTubers who post their project tutorials here on Instructables? For me the list isn't that long, looking to make it longer...Darbin OrvarEvan & KatelynPaul JackmanBrian LoughGlen (DIY Creators)Jen FoxbotJohnny Brooke (Crafted Workshop)Barb Makes Things

Posted by bekathwia 6 days ago


Microwave stopped heating

Our microwave is about two years old and it stopped heating. The fan ran and the carousel went around, but food did not warm. I took it out of the upper cabinet mount and opened the case. I know about the big capacitor and discharged it with a screwdriver after disconnecting the power. For extra safety I clipped a jumper wire on both terminals. I watched numerous videos at YouTube on troubleshooting a microwave and on testing the various major components at home, but no component showed any signs of failure. Then it began to work again as suddenly as it had stopped working. About ten days later, it stopped heating again. After more testing, still no components showed signs of failure. But, I did squeeze the female spade crimp connectors a little with a pair of pliers before connecting them again so they fit more tightly when reconnected. The microwave has continued to work as it should. My wife remembers a time a few months ago when she ran it and ran it to get something to cook as she wanted it and the microwave stopped because it was overheated. I suspect a connection was weak and heated the metal in the connector enough that it became weak. Later it failed intermittently. We could have called warranty service, but we did not want to wait. Knowing what I know now, I doubt a serviceman would have patiently checked for weak connections, but would probably have simply replaced some parts. When those did not really solve the problem, the microwave would have been condemned and replaced. A replacement oven may not have matched our other appliances as well as our present microwave does. Test procedures for components in a microwave are different than they are for similar components used in (for example) a sound amplifier. This applies especially to the high voltsge diode. Do not connect a voltmeter to the high voltage side of the transformer. When running the microwave, be certain to have a dummy load in the cavity, like a cup of water. A very useful test that checks for power to the transormer primary is to disconnect the primary side transformer connectors and attach aligator clips from a voltmeter to the transformer leads. Then run the microwave for a few seconds and check for a full line voltage reading each time. A clamping ammeter to measure line current helps because the sound with the magnetron working is not too much differnt from the fan and carousel running without the magnetron working, but, it is easy to see the extra needle deflection when the magnetron is also drawing current.What seemed to be an expensive problem had an easy inexpensive solution.

Posted by Phil B 6 days ago


An idea for highly directional and loud loudspeakers

I am currently playing around with vibration experiments.Mainly in the ultrasonic range though.But when messing around with some vibration speakers I found a not so well documented misuse for themEveryone wants a big TV these days but once you have it the sound often turns out to come from a tin can.Those with a good entertainment or at least stereo system won't mind hooking the to it.The rest usually opts for a sound bar or how I like to call them shredderbox.Sooner or later they just fail to produce the sound you had on the first day - or they cost a small fortune.What is the secret to a powerful speaker?Firstly efficiency.Secondly the design.You need the right material to produce a more or less even reaction at all intendet frequencies.The design makes sure those frequencies that need extra attention get more volume output, like by using a little pipe for the low frequencies.Some even include a dedicate speaker for these low volumes.What if you could just build you own soundbar on a budget?If you have a failing soundbar with the actual speakers as the problem you could salvage the electronics.In case you can make do with headphone input or RCA connections than any cheap amplifier will do.Leaves the speakers...Vibration speakers are still underestimated for their uses...I tried the the usual approach of using a glue on vibro speaker:Place it on surface tha gives a re more or less decent sound.The thing is though that there is no ideal surface for them.A table can sound like the highs are missing, a hardwood desk might not produce any low frequencies while a window or plaster board wall bring the problem of wiring and vibrations.To check the reactions of sound on different media I, one day, mounted one speaker under a big tin can.Right in the center.The fun hit me when my tests with water were over and tried to play a song with the empty can.Of course there was some degree of tin can sound but the directional qualities together with the wide frequency spectrum made me experiment.The key is to find the right material and shape!You want something that is hard enough to vibrate properly but soft enough to allow for lower frequencies.I tried pipes, boxes, old plastic containers....But nothing seemed to provide a broad and even sound spectrum without distortions.If you vibrate a surface then only at certain, resonant frequencies destinct patterns will form if some dust or similar is place on the surface.In all other cases there is only chaos.Preventing the harmonics to form prevents harmonic vibrations to build up to distortion levels.Like it or not but waste seems to work just fine as a speaker ;)I made a plug to fit reall tight into a 2 liter juice bottle neck.The original plastic cap is just too soft.A vibro speaker glued onto the plug and the bottom of the bottle cut out and the soun was quite impressive.Proper use is however limited as the speaker would need to be mounted upright.Next thought was to utilise the bottom of the bottle too.By cutting a round hole in the side of the bottle I got an even more directional speaker with a better response to low frequencies.Placement of said hole of course affect how certain frequencies travel and where nodes can form.The size might also matter as the hoe itself, or better the material around it can get resonant at certain frequencies.You can cheat at bit though by using sticky tape, duct tape and so on as dampening meterial in badly affected areas.Especially with a wall mount for the speaker and the bottle hanging down behind the TV the effect is good compared to a standard shredderbox. The above design is certainly not for everyone although I think it has a wow factor to it if you show a decent sound coming out of a juice bottle ;)My next step was trying to find out how more fancy designs could work.So just stop reading here unless you like the idea of creating speakers that should not even work.Back in the old days we had more than just the speakers with magnets and cones.Anything that can vibrate can produce sound.It all depends on how much of it we can actually hear.My first exotic idea to really misuse a vibro speaker is a vibrating harp.Does not need to be in the classic shape though.A string in a resonance box, like a harp, guitar, violine and so on will start to vibrate at the set note.This is true even if the force for the vibration is external.You might remember the old school experiment with the two pitch forks on their boxes?Hit one and the other starts to swing too.If you make a resonance box for a vibro speaker with internal or external wire strings at different tensions or lengths you can amplify the sound for the notes that correspond to the strings.Make a relatively large box with some sturdy wires for the frequencies between 60 and 100Hz and you have a really powerful subwoofer from just 20W of input power...I think you get the idea on how to use amplifying strings now ;)My second and total misuse is the xmas tree.If you are a sparky by old trades then you might remember the mechanical frequency meters for generators or other things that required a stable supply.Well, if not than you should know the little wind up toys that play a melody with a drum and tiny forks.Imagine you would replace the glue plate with a rod.Depending on material and length harmonic nodes will form at various places and frequencies.Between those nodes the swing is maximised while the node itself appear to be stationary and without and vibrations at all.For example a steel rod of 1.2m would have a single standing wave at about 1kHz while a copper rod of the same lenght will be much lower in the frequency for a single standing wave.The xmas tree assumes that the rod is of such material that no single standing wave can form below 200Hz and that it won't swing too much at other resonant frequencies.Since aluminium is easy to work with and available in flat and thin bars already it would be my first choice for the branches of the tree.The required length is calculate based on the speed of sound in aluminium - you find online calculators for that.You want the lenght so that you end up with an even fraction of the wavelength you want to "play" with that strip.This allows for the rod to be placed right in the center of the strip where the standing wave movement is zero in the node.Make a lot of thin strips to get a broad frequency response.Placement on the rod can now be crucial.The best option I found so far is using a threaded rod and tapping the holes in the strips.The strips swing quite violently if long and at certain frequencies.And those not in resonance will still transfer their momentum to other strips.This can cause unwanted harmonics.Most evident when a single strips swigns violently at a certain frequencies.Adjusting the angle by turning it is often enough to get out of the overlapping harmonics.With enough strips it then really looks like a tree with flat branches.The sound might not be as loud and impressive as a plastic bottle as the virations are going up and down.But if placed in the right spot it not just looks nice but also makes people wonder where the sound is coming from.Last but not least my yet to be tested hidden speaker system - due to renting restrictions :(If you own a house of the standard frame design then you have plasterboard walls and ceilings.With a large enough surface of the right material, one or two vibro speakers can cover a really wide frequency range at good volume levels.So far I could only do tests in an old wooden window frame but the priciple works the same way between the wooden frames of a wall or ceiling.In my experiments a standard plasterboard sheet needs to be 100 x 100cm to get a more or less decent response for the lower frequencies.Before you rip your walls down use a stud finder and place your vibro speaker on the plasterboard between two studs or beams.I found that two speakers for the lower frequencies and three or four for the higher ones make a good sound.That is per channel and if you have the right size plasterboard sheet in the right place.No point if your left side is further away from the TV than your right.Ideally you replace the entire sheet with the speaker in the right spot on the new sheet but on the back.For obvious reasons this is far from being a perfect solution.But if you plan a full renovation anyway...A way out for older houses is the wooden floorboards.They make excellent resonators for low frequencies.The directional speakers could then still be hidden in picture frames of the right thickness and design.Anyways, I hope I gave you some ideas here ;)

Posted by Downunder35m 6 days ago


Removing adhesive from vinyl tiles

I am having solid hardwood flooring installed in my first floor of my home. The existing flooring is currently 12x12" vinyl tiles. I am in the process of removing the tiles (using an iron). How do I remove the old adhesive that was used to put the tiles down? Is it necessary to remove even though felt underlayment will be placed under the hardwood? Thanks in advance.

Posted by meemee_0822 12 days ago


Halloween Making: Why do we do this to ourselves!? ; )

Closing in on midnight on October 30th, and I found myself in a familiar situation . . .Making last-minute Halloween costumes and props for my kids!Here's a photo of my late-night kitchen table, where I was working on a homemade hover board prop from the "Back to the Future" movies. I paused for a moment to survey the scene and snap a photo, and couldn't help taking note of the silliness of the whole thing. It's midnight. I'm tired. My kids are asleep. And I'm up making this thing. WHY?Why do we do this to ourselves?! - - - - - -I know why I do it, but tell me why you do!Were you up late making stuff for yourself or for your kids? Share your reasoning and thoughts on being a creative Halloweener in the comments below. Be sure to include a photo or two of what you were making!

Posted by seamster 13 days ago


3d delta printer issues

Hi everyone. I need some help regarding the homing of a 3d delta printer, and it's my first attempt to create a 3d printer by scrap. My problem is regarding the homing, when I do the homing 2 out of 3 endstop work properly but 1(always one) doesn't work properly(see video). While the support is hitting the endstop, it moves a little back like the others, but then move up again and doesn't stop 'til I do it manually. there is someone that have some idea to solve the issue? Hope everything is clear enough, otherwise ask me :) Thank you in advance.

Posted by SebastianS217 7 days ago


Knex Mp7 PDW

This is my new H&K; MP7 PDW. It features a removable magazine, a foldable front foregrip, iron sights, and it is very sturdy. Hope you liked it and see you next time with another knex gun!

Posted by Fire Flames 6 weeks ago


Magnets in the Microwave, can you do it?

So does anyone know if you can put a magnet in the microwave? Will it cause some nuclear explosion, or rocket me back into time? Or will it just stay on my mug and witness the warming of my beverage?

Posted by Punkergal 10 years ago


Any idea on how to bypass Iboss Webfilter on Mac OS? Challenge!

My computer teacher gave us a challenge: our school used to have filters on most of it's computers, but they were taken down and replaced with something else. As a challenge, our computer teacher re-installed it on some computers and told us to try to get through it. I have had little success, my most promising moment being with a glitch in Firefox, that soon fixed itself and ruined my only gateway. To win the challenge, You have to get onto Facebook, myspace, and twitter, all of which are on the blacklist. Once there, you must post into a specific profile. You must do this three separate times, to illustrate that it can be done more than once. I know it is possible, because two other kids in the class have managed it, but I simply have no idea. The program is Iboss Webfilter by Phantom Technologies, and all of our computers are pretty new Macs. We have access on our computers to Firefox, Safari, Seamonkey, Camino, and Omniweb browsers. All proxy websites are blocked by the webfilter program. All firefox abilities are enabled though. Any and all suggestions or help is appreciated, If we pass the challenge, we get an automatic 100% in the class, because we have probably the coolest computer teacher ever. If anyone can give me a good solution that works, they get a patch!

Posted by ilpug 6 years ago


Knex HK 417

This is my Knex HK 417. It is very nice looking with its flashy side rails and stock. It was a very large gun that held a lot of ammo and shot very well. It was able to shoot passed the length of my house. It also had a removable magazine. I liked building it because it was different than your normal M4 styles.

Posted by Blue Mullet 5 years ago


Show off your drawings!!!

Though there's no members at the moment I figured I'd go ahead and start a topic. In this one, just post pics or scans of some of your drawings. Here's three of mine:

Posted by LoneWolf 8 years ago


Soundproof Sleeping Closure

Hello fellow instructables :) Right I need some help and advice on a design brief to help fix my problem. Problem - I live in a ground floor flat and there is 1 flat above me, 2 scum bags occupy it, a couple of 22 year olds and they have obviously never been taught consideration for others and they bang and thrash around all through the early hours of the morning. When they bang on their bare wooden floor it sounds like a heavy metal dumbbell coming through my ceiling and it wakes me abruptly and its ruining my life :( I've complained to the council the past 18 months but there not interested. They have not put any carpet down in their flat in the last 18 months and it looks like they have no intention of doing so (they can afford fags n booze tho), plus they have a baby due any day now, great.. so now there making their problems, my problem. Solution - The only thing I can think of is making a soundproof sleeping closure, a large box like a 4 poster bed but all sides solid made out of a layer of MDF then insulation then more mdf, but I have some questions before I start. How would I get adequate air in and out ? Would this even stop the banging on my ceiling waking me up ? or would it still penetrate the box ? How would I control the temperature, would it be too hot in there ? Something like the image below but more solid with a door. If anyone has any experience with this or input or any good ideas I'd be ever so grateful. Cheers in advance. Matt

Posted by mattdiy 4 years ago


Pixlr Photo Editor Not Working - is it only me?

This post is not about the Pixlr editor that was removed from the site. I use Pixlr express several times a week, and now it doesn't open up on any computer that I try.  Is there a chance that you could try to access pixlr express and let me know if it works on your computer? I've tried a few so far on all browsers, updated flash, restarted, etc. https://pixlr.com/express/ I just get a gray screen :( Thank you!

Posted by Yonatan24 11 months ago


How does one sort questions by date of submission?

Hi all,It's been a while since I've been to instructables. I see that Questions are back, but they seem to be listed randomly. one will be "posted 9 years ago", followed immediately by one the was "posted 6 days ago" followed by one that was "posted 3 years ago" etc.I don't see any ability to sort by date, although I suspect I'm simply unfamiliar with the new layout.Any help would be appreciated.PS> If some iblesfolk sees this post, I'd like to thank you for implementing post editing. It was always an aggravation to me that I'd have to delete a post in order to correct a misspelled word or otherwise fix some grammatical or cognitive error. Thanks also for implementing the menu bar above posts. (B/I/U etc)dropping this into "websites<

Posted by seandogue 12 days ago


What is this tool

Does anyone know what this tool is?

Posted by weflyfish2 6 years ago


Stepper motor working with nrf51dk (problem with timer i think)

Hello everyone, I am trying to make a program that makes work a stepper motor 28BYJ-48, my stepper motor is well connected to the ULN2003 and the ULN2003 is well connected to my nrf51dk, here is a picture of my setup : https://coeleveld.com/arduino-stepper-uln2003a/I foloowed this tutorial and it worked with my Arduino, so I guess the problem is not coming from there.I am now making a program using the nrf51dk, I am using nrf51_sdk_10.0.0 and the ble_app_uart as an example, my project is to control the motor via Bluetooth.But for the moment I just would like to make the motor runing.so I follow the same principe of code as in the tutorial for making it work.I need a timer, so I also followed the "Application timer tutorial" from nordic :devzone.nordicsemi.com/.../application-timer-tutorialhere is my code that I Added to the ble_app_uart project ://At the top I define the differents gpios that I will have to use//and step_number that is a variable use to navigate threw the differents steps for the motor to work int step_number = 0; #define motorPin1 1 #define motorPin2 2 #define motorPin3 3 #define motorPin4 4 #define APP_TIMER_PRESCALER 15 /**< Value of the RTC1 PRESCALER register. */ #define APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE 5 /**< Size of timer operation queues. */ //I add 4 different timers, one for each pin APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step1); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step2); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step3); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step4); . . . //the code already defined in the existing project//Timeout handler for the repeated timer //I need 4 timeout handler, one foreach motorPin static void timer_a_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin1); } static void timer_b_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin2); } static void timer_c_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin3); } static void timer_d_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin4); } //Then I create the timers // Create timers static void create_timers() { uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; // Create timers err_code1 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step1, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_a_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step2, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_b_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step3, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step4, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); } //And here is my main //with the loop to make work the motor the same way I did with the arduino, but adapting the code int main(void) { uint32_t err_code; uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; bool erase_bonds; uint8_t start_string[] = START_STRING; // Initialize. APP_TIMER_INIT(APP_TIMER_PRESCALER, APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE, false); uart_init(); buttons_leds_init(&erase;_bonds); ble_stack_init(); gap_params_init(); services_init(); advertising_init(); conn_params_init(); printf("%s",start_string); err_code = ble_advertising_start(BLE_ADV_MODE_FAST); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code); create_timers(); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin1, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin2, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin3, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin4, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); // Enter main loop. for (;;) { uint8_t str1[1] = "1"; uint8_t str2[1] = "2"; uint8_t str3[1] = "3"; uint8_t str4[1] = "4"; switch(step_number){ case 0: err_code1 = app_timer_start(timer_step1, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str1, strlen((char*)str1)); break; case 1: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_start(timer_step2, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str2, strlen((char*)str2)); break; case 2: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_start(timer_step3, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str3, strlen((char*)str3)); break; case 3: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_start(timer_step4, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str4, strlen((char*)str4)); break; } step_number++; if(step_number > 3){ step_number = 0; } power_manage(); } }Probably I am doing Something wrong with the timer, because when I modify it and decide to use it with a led for testing like in the tutorial, the motor makes noise but doesn't move and the led works. If someone can help, it's been hours I am on this problem and I can't find my mistakes.

Posted by BenjaminP106 13 days ago


Maker/fab lab/AI special call for papers invitation

Hi !My name is Andre Peres and I'm a professor and fab lab manager at Brazil.Me and Fabiana Lorenzi are chairing a special track at flairs (The FLORIDA ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE RESEARCH SOCIETY) about fab labs, makers and AI. about the track: http://www.invenio.com.br/flairs/about flairs: http://www.invenio.com.br/flairs/about We are inviting interesting projects to submit to this track. When we made this special track we wanted to give fab labs and makers the opportunity to get together in this academic environment to talk, exchange experiences and also to get this opportunity to link academic research, the maker movment and personal digital fabrication.We hope you consider submiting your project to this special track, and also to see you at FLAIRS. best regards;André.

Posted by decoP 14 days ago


Ideas and Methods for DIY Truck Topper

So in 5 months starting February I'll be getting my first vehicle. If I do get a truck, I'll be making my own topper out of wood. Now I have a reference picture but I want it out of wood just because it's more secure and looks pretty. Also because I will be making a door on the back that stands tall but can also be walked through. The first two photos is how I want to make the topper but I need methods and advice to do so. The third picture is how I want the door. I'll try to answer any question when you have them but keep in mind I don't currently own a truck, this is for 6 months down the road.

Posted by jlowery5 1 year ago


Don't keep rats as pet !

When my brother decided to travel around the country, he has been forced to leave the white rat he kept as pet ... and I've been forced to adopt this little animal.Rats as pets quickly become cute, funny, and show a personality that make them even more endearing ... In other words, "la souris" (the mouse), as I renamed it because I was unable to remember the name my bro gave her formerly, quickly found her place in my home and my life.So, happy end ??No !No, because rats pets quickly develop lot of weird diseases :- dermatitis - mange- bumble feet- cysts- tumors- etc- and various infections and self-injuries because the rat scratches or bites itself because of one or several of the above diseases.The health and the life of your rat will quickly become a nightmare, and, if like me, you tend to consider your pets like full members of your family, your rat pet will become a great source of worries ... and if you're not cruel, you'll be forced to give an end to its agony. Because that's a real slow and cruel agony.Most people who adopt a rat as pet seems not to be aware of all the problems this little animal will have, neither how expensive it will be to look after it.The internet is full of sites dedicated to the diseases of rats pet. My advice : If you love pets, don't adopt or give a rat as pet !20080225 update :Despite what I said, if you still want to adopt a rat, then, you should better document yourself a lot before commitment.Member Please wrote a tiny instructable about How to take care of a rat the right way. She is a breeder, so you could ask her as much questions as you need.20080226 update :She also wrote two other very useful articles :avoid bad diseases for your pet ratfun games for your pet rat

Posted by chooseausername 10 years ago


10 Watt LED Circuit

I am a software developer by trade and have little or no experience regarding LED and/or electronic designs. I am hoping someone here can help with a project I am working on using high brightness LEDs. I have studied several 'instructables' and specifically dan's "Circuits for using High Power LED's." My project consists of a few high brightness LEDs that will be placed in a high ceiling room with the brightness controlled by a microcontroller based on the light in the room (time of day, sun in window, etc). The microcontroller will use photocells to determine the brightness in the room and then adjust the LED using PWM pins. The LED is 10 watt and approximately 450 lumens. Attached is a circuit I drew as a starting point and would like help in determining if it will work, I am close or does it need to be trashed. I am not sure what the value for the resistor should be. Below are some calculations but not sure if I am on the right track or not. No need to be kind, I am more interested in getting it right and not losing any 'magic puffs of smoke' from any of the components. Here are the specs: LED IF: 1.6 A Peak Forward Current: 1.7 A Forward Voltage: 8 V LM350 (heavy duty version of LM317 IO_MAX: 4.5 A 1.2 - 25 V adjustable regulator BC337-40 Collection Current - Continuous: 800 mA dc Total Device Dissipation: 625 mW Resistor: 5W or 10W Voltage Amp Ohms Watt 8 1.60 5.0 12.8 8 0.80 10.0 10.0 8 1.10 7.5 8.5 Note: LED and components will have adequate heat sinks.

Posted by desnotes 9 years ago


Support contact problems

Hi, Is anyone else experiencing problems contacting the Instructables support team via email? I have tried to email them via different channels three times now but it comes back as non-existent email address.... ironically the reason I'm trying to email support in the first place is because despite changing my contact to a new email address in my personal settings, emails are still being sent to my old email address. If anyone knows how to get through to support or if they are having the same issue maybe we can join forces to resolve it..? Cheers!

Posted by PabloDee 5 years ago


Need ideas on how to make an automatic photo slicer/cutter...

I'm playing with a digital photobooth which prints out 2 vertical strips per piece of 4x6 photo paper.  It works great, and I just cut the paper in half (the long way to separate the two strips. I'm looking for a way to automate this.  I've tried pre-perforating the paper, which works but is not ideal.  I've also just manually used a paper cutter (both rotary and guillotine style). My goal: an automatic paper cutter that will cut a 4x6 photo in half the long way. I've actually started building a device that is basically a slot to guide the paper, and a turning rotary blade.  The paper gets dropped in the top, is drawn through the turning rotary blade in the middle, and is spit out the bottom.  It works on small scraps of paper, but lacks the power to really cut through an entire piece of photo paper.  Also, it's built out of MDF wood and I lack the tools to make it precise enough to cut accurately. The cutting mechanism seems to be the big holdup.  I tried with my hand - a rotary blade (even a big sharp one) requires quite a lot of pressure to cut the photo, and it's not something the photo paper can just drop through via gravity.  I'd have to get a much stronger motor. But I'm starting to brainstorm - is there a better way?  I think ideally I'd have a mechanism like an electric paper shredder - two rolling bars with disc-shaped metal blades.  The blades are not thin & sharp like a razer... just sharply-square on their edges so that paper get gets caught between them gets cut.  I'd have a paper shredder with just two of those roller/blades, so it would just cut right down the middle. However, all paper shredders I've found are cross cut (which would pulverize the photo), or have grippy teeth that mangle the paper leaving very rough edges. So let's brainstorm... what kind of cutting mechanisms might work?  What are make-able in a garage with limited tools?  How could I create my own custom paper-shredder type roller-blades? Any ideas, thoughts, questions are welcome.  It seems simple on the surface, but I've built two prototypes and still don't have a workable solution. Thanks! (And yes, I'll turn it into an instructable when it gets done) SUMMARY: (I'll try to summarize the current ideas here) -Use a mini saw blade and work it like a mini table saw. -Create some kind of rotary die cutter. -Automate a normal guillotine paper cutter (lots of electronics and sensors).

Posted by jumpfroggy 8 years ago


Crowdfunding

We love seeing our authors transform their ideas into a reality, and we want to help in whatever ways we can. Below are some of the campaigns our authors are working to get funded. We'll do our best to keep this list current, so please check out their projects, and help fellow makers in our community find success!  Current Campaigns i-mimic the animation made easy, Device capturing human motion directly in 3D animation software in real-time & without plugins. by Instructabler nawres102 Open Source DIY Automatic Tail Light, A fun and easy to assemble light sensor kit.  By Instructabler Solarcycle Tiq probe, it defines a new category of electronic debug & test tools for makers & professionals - filling the gap between DMMs & 'scopes. By Instructabler markhen57 If you have a project you're trying to get funded, let us know!  Completed Campaigns  Doughnut Safe, Turn your spare tire into a strong box.  By Instructabler Mrballeng The fumeFan, The fume Fan is a soldering fume extractor, work lamp, helping hands tool and a project organiser for hobbyists, makers and creators.  By Instructabler hertzgamma SOLARPAD Open Source 5 Watt Smart Phone Solar USB Charger, Strap this water-resistant solar panel and battery to backpacks or mount it to tripods for camping, hiking, and cycling.  By Instructabler Solarcycle Fish Bone, A no knots cord tightener specifically designed for paracord by author Mrballeng - Funded by almost 9000% of goal! Would you Woodwork, a funny and informational woodworking webseries by author Few Bits - Funded by 100% of goal!  Zero to Maker, a re-skilling guide for new makers by David Lang - Funded by almost 2000% of goal! Arabic Alphabet Fun Flashcards, cute and kid friendly learning tool by author acraftyarab - Funded and met goal! PIXEL: Interactive LED Art, an interactive LED-based display for retro pixel art by author alinke - Funded by over 600% of goal! Blinky Fish, a tiny fish-shaped board that fits on an Arduino to help teach, by author marc.cryan - Funded by almost 600% of goal! Chipper, the ATtiny Programming and Prototyping Shield, by author Hammock Boy - funded by over 1000% of goal! Piranha, a follow-up knotless gear tie for paracord, by author Mrballeng - funded by over 1400% of goal! The Question Block Lamp, a Mario-inspired, interactive lamp for your inner geek, gamer and child, by author bduxbury - funded by almost 150% of goal! Out of Time - A patina weathered I-Beam with moving gears by Instructabler hack818 Maker Kase - Universal Maker cabinet. Perfect for 3D printers, model makers, small CNC machines and open frame Bitcoin Miners by Instructabler bmc.loughlin Have you started your own Kickstarter or Indiegogo to help fund your project? Let us know! Please leave the link in the comments, along with a brief description. We'll add your project to our up-to-date campaign list above, and promote it across our channels. If you have any questions, or want to add any additional info, please email me at khoward@instructables.com Thanks!

Posted by kazmataz 5 years ago