ABS Slury

I have a question for any of you that are using an abs slury for adhesion on you printer bed. How thick should it be? Water thin or honey like? TIA Curt

Posted by CurtWG 4 years ago


3D Printing Pen ABS plastic

Hi there, So I've seen a lot of stuff online about 3D printing releasing what are potentially toxic fumes, and I'm wondering how this transfers over to 3D pens?  We are looking to use them for workshops for kids, and there have been some concerns about it, so I'm just looking to see if anyone can point me in the direction of some info? All I can find is about 3D printing, and I can't imagine that using a 3D pen for half an hour on and off is the same as printing a whole object fume wise? Thanks!

Posted by sb9 3 years ago


Painting 3D prints

Those of you who may have had the occasion to paint a 3D print I'm curious what products and techniques you may have used. I've used one of the Customizer Things to make some name tags and I'd like to paint the raised letters to help them stand out. Any suggestions or methods that work on ABS? Curt

Posted by CurtWG 4 years ago


Thoughts on the Makibox?

For those who don't know what I'm talking about: Makibox Has anyone used this? Is it too good to be true (pricewise)? Opinions?

Posted by martzsam 5 years ago


assemble a ultimaker for me please

Hello guys  I am looking for someone who can assemble and calibrate a ultimaker 3d printer for me  living in canada  i am willing to pay for the service  please contact me at    avinash3ds@yahoo.com  if you are interested to take this project up  Thanks for looking and have a great day ahead! Yours Respectfully Avi

Posted by avinash3ds 6 years ago


6-pack abs qBurning Question Answered!

Isn't there a Burning question on how to get 6-pack abs? No need to do an instructable on it! There ya go!

Posted by SpinWard 10 years ago


ABS Recycler for 3-D Printer Filament

Many inexpensive 3-D Printers use ABS filament as feedstock. This filament is not cheap and being a plastic, it is a substance that demands recycling efforts. Imagine a small 3-D printer that you use to produce useful household items with. Here is an example Instructable illustrating what I am talking about. Now imagine that you no longer need an item that you have made. You toss it into the hopper of the machine that I have in mind and it is ground into small pieces. These pieces are then melted with acetone and extruded anew into ABS filament for your 3-D printer! It may be possible to recover the acetone during the extrusion process since the acetone evaporates to restore the ABS.

Posted by Exocetid 6 years ago


Portable Presurized Water Tank out of ABS Pipe?

I'm trying to make a portable presureized water system for offgrid use.  My idea uses 5 feet of 4" Abs pipe with a cap on one end and a threaded clean out to fill the tank. The capped end would have a valve at the bottom to allow a garden hose or etc to be attached, and a small valve stem( tire valve ) to pressurize the tank via bicycle pump. Is it a feasible idea? Would the water be drinkable? Will Abs stand up to constant presure or would it be best to release the presure when not in use? Im thinking 35-40psi would be reasonable with the tank 2/3rds full of water.

Posted by misterpicture 6 years ago


Plastic

I would like some old abs plastic or acrylic im not entirely bothered its just something for products ! if anybody has some id be sure to pay postage costs ! Many thanks Stephen Niall

Posted by stephenniall 8 years ago


Spud gun materials

I'm building a spud gun and all I could get was cellular core ABS, it seems pretty light and I'm not sure if I can trust it.  Would PVC be a better choice to handle the pressure?

Posted by loki610 8 years ago


Adding Other Materials to the Mix

Over the past couple of years, I've evolved from being totally captivated by my 3D printer, making everything I could think of out of the three plastics I can print with, ABS, PLA and Nylon, to having the Replicator, sitting in my shop and becoming "another tool".  A tool that stands in as an "employee", who can make things while I do other things. Along with doing a pretty good job of making my designs, I've experimented with stepping in, during the print, adding components made of other materials, such as cloth, metal and other plastics.  I've successfully made pulls on tie bags, an electric push button, aluminum mounts for my project car and spring clips to hang my wife's potato chip and popcorn bags in the kitchen. Has anyone else been able to use their printer to make items, not 100% plastic?

Posted by bfk 4 years ago


nerf m203

I have been looking around and have not found a good design for a nerf m203 grenade launcher so i made this picture. (note i have not made one but i might, just an idea) it will fire a nerf pocket vortex in will go below the Nerf recon the tactical rail it would be more for function than look. tell me what you think. ps i may just use a air fitting for a compressor  rather than a pump.

Posted by ninjusk 8 years ago


How to drill holes on ABS plastic?

Hi guys, I have this plastic which I think is made of ABS plastic. I need to drill a rectangular hole and and some circular holes in the container. As such, what method (milling machining/drill etc etc) should I use to achieve my goal without damaging(cracking etc) the container? I have uploaded a pic of the container.. thanks

Posted by kurtselva 5 years ago


Can Hardwood Shred ABS?

I am thinking of making a prototype plastic crusher/shredder out of a hardwood instead of steel. Do you think that a hardwood would be able to grind a plastic such as abs into small pellets? If so what kind of wood would be best? What if I made a plywood out of hardwood to strengthen the grain? What if I just use nice plywood?

Posted by rednax718 2 years ago


An Awesome How-to/DIY Business - Replacement Volvo ABS controllers

Around 2000, the anti-lock braking system on my 1996 Volvo starting acting up. Occasionally, the ABS and TRACS (traction control system, which applies the front brakes to correct high relative velocity differences between the front wheels) warnings would illuminate, and neither would work when I tried them in snow. The dealer told me it was a computer error, which could mean any number of things, and would probably cost $600-$1000 to get and install a new ABS computer. For that level of expense, I decided would just pump the brakes if the wheels ever lost traction. Seven years later, I heard a caller on Car Talk mention that he had found someone on the internet to fix his Volvo's ABS. A quick search yields Fixing Volvo ABS problems, which for $140 will fix what turns out to be a common problem in these cars. The website is complete with ABS computer removal and re-installation instructions. So, I pulled the ABS computer out (shown in the picture), mailed it off, and got it back in about a week. I re-installed, and all the warning lights were off. I haven't had a chance to try it out in snow, but I'm pretty sure it will work. From the FAQ:We estimate that the repaired and improved unit will last for the life of the vehicle. The new components are two to four times larger than the original design. The first unit that was improved was on my own 1998 V70, that was done in October 2001 and over 30,000 miles ago, and counting.I think this is a great little business that shares many of Instructables' principles, and I wish them success.

Posted by ewilhelm 11 years ago


Preprint from Don Page on Science and Religion

Http://arxiv.org/abs/0811.0630

Posted by kelseymh 9 years ago


Glove Taser Help

Can anyone please tell me if i need a special kind of drill to drill the holes in the box. I was asking because isn't ABS a type of plastic???

Posted by f5ive32 11 years ago


Should I delete this instructable?

Do you think I ought to delete my ible on how to get six pack abs? They haven't accepted it into the burning questions contest, and people seem to HATE it, although it saying about the same thing as the six pack ible that was accepted (pure coincidence, I didn't read the other one beforehand, promise!)...on the other hand, I have gotten a ton of view (over 1000 in a couple of days).https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-get-six-pack-abs/

Posted by Lithium Rain 10 years ago


Looking for a large 3d printer 16"-24"

Looking for a large 3d printer 16" to 24" for ABS and NYLON , Anyone know of a company that makes one.

Posted by DIDDE55 4 years ago


What is the correct name for this plastic?

I have seen this stuff used by machinists for jig making and small parts. What is the professional name for this plastic? I thought it might be ABS plastic but i dont know for sure

Posted by SlickSqueegie 5 years ago


wtf??!!

I just visited some air gun dealers site and i learned that they sell air rifles that can go up to 3000psi! I am making an air rifle that i was gonna pump with a air compressor up to 300psi. :( I thaught that 300psi was much!! Wtf?? I mean 300psi is enough to go trough 18mm plywood. Whats 3000psi gonna do??!! Go through a wall?!! Wtf? :( But is there a way for me to pump to a higher psi?? And a other thing. My air tank was this ABS pipe and i was wondering if you could get ABS pipe out of iron. Can you?? PS: I still havent learned how much fps a 300psi is.

Posted by Enzo55 10 years ago


3D Printing - Metal

Is it true that there are 3d printers that print in metal? If so what kind of 3D Printer is this and about how much do they cost? Oh also how exactly does that work when 3D Printing is supposed to be additive manufacturing and metal isnt a liquid or even flexible at solid states?

Posted by acadena2 5 years ago


Anyone using Tinkercad vs 123D Design? Curious about how and why people use one or the other.

Tinkercad is great for beginners, while 123D is slightly more advanced with features.  Does anyone prefer one over the other for different reasons?

Posted by andrewt 5 years ago


posted my instructable video, cannot view it

I posted this intractable and I can not search for it even when I search fro the direct links: It is an instructable on how to train your abdominals at home. It is definitely instructable. https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Sculpt-your-Abs-at-Home-using-chairs-and/ Why can't I see it?

Posted by GetBooshBros 5 years ago


best material for molding polystyrene

I'm melting Styrofoam w/ acetone and wanting to put the goop in a gear mold; however I'm not sure what material I should be using for the mold.  I was originally going to do it in ABS plastic, but wasn't sure if the polystyrene would glue itself to the mold as the acetone evaporates.  So I was thinking of aluminum or possibly stainless steel.  Your thoughts?

Posted by Spaceman Spiff 5 years ago


What about a waterproof disposable camera piggybank?

OK, so i got this used waterproof kodak 1 use camera and removed the camera thing and said "wow this would be cool for a piggybank" and it is, cause it is hard to open but is possible, it is shockproof because of the rubber and abs and it is cool looking. What do you think if i make an instructable on that PD: if someone makes an instructable about that i will kill him LOL

Posted by santy22 10 years ago


today is my birthday

Today is my birthday, and i found out i have the same birthday as stevie nicks, so i guess thats pretty kool, for those of you that dont know, stevie nicks was a singer in fleetwood mac, and she sings Very good, today is also my granny's birthday, i need to ask her if people freaked out when abe lincoln was shot, lol, jk

Posted by Yerboogieman 10 years ago


Airsoft/Spudgun crossover: Anti-Personnel Explosive thingies

Its a PVC/ABS thing that works like a spud gun, but launches a powder cloud (and potentially BB's). It's remote-triggered, so it can be buried underground, and only the top has to be removed, so it can be permanent. It works in the same way as a spud gun. I'll try to get diagrams up tomorrow, and if I can build it, pictures and an instructable, of course.

Posted by Rotten194 9 years ago


PVC catamaran

So I was thinking of building a catamaran out of two pieces of PVC pipe, either 6 inch or 8 inch. I don't know how long it would have to be to support me or maybe others. Does anyone know of a buoyancy calculator I could use to try to figure this out? Or maybe I could use ABS plastic. This is very easy to heat and bend. This way I could actually shape it a little more, instead of having it just be round and less controllable.

Posted by psi3000 11 years ago


Instructables Movie

Hey there I would like to make an ibles movie it would only have to be a couple minutes but I want it to be awesome and represent the ibles community. If there would be any way I would also like to give it to the site founder so he can take it with him to maker faires and such. I will need a ton of help so please list what you can do and please do it I know I can see if I can produce it and send it in so we can be more known by the common people. Thanks! AB

Posted by acidbass 7 years ago


Tube Material

I started thinking about how the tube material could be improved. Although I love the ghetto look of pringles wrapped in the invincible duct tape, improvements can be made. You could use PVC or ABS for the tube, it wouldnt need pressure rating because Im sure this thing wouldnt have enough power to explode the pringles/tape team. This is rather cheap and you could just glue on an endcap. Then a BBQ ignitor can be threaded in, a ring to define the chamber and barrel and fuel sprayed in! However getting the perfect cost/durability/strength ratio is hard.

Posted by SNDM 10 years ago


0.3mm nozzle printing speeds?

I am currently finetuning my homemade hotend and was wondering what you guys have in the speed settings for 0.3mm nozzles printing ABS? I started with the aim of reaching 120mm/s but after some hours of finetuning I am currently trying to breach the 200mm/s barrier. As I am only using a very old Mendel Prusa I am actually quite happy that I got that far. What speeds are possible with the current printer models? (not the statements on the website, real life)

Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago


Nylon and substitutes on a cold bed

It's been some time and I made progress with Nylon. Aldi had some cheap craft glue with methanol as the solvent - this stuff works great for PLA, ABS AND Nylon. The common problem with nylon is that it has no real adhesion to anything, except cardboard and bakelite. Cardboard makes a clean up nightmare and bakelite is not always easy to find, especially not the right type. So I tried various glues, paints and primers but none was really suited for all printing needs. And the cleanup of the bed is imoprtant too as I did not want to spend hours scrubbing with acetone or similar nasty solvents. After the first great succes with the clear Aldi craft glue I checked the local 2$ shops and carft stores and found similar glueswith methanol as a solvent. Since not everyone is lucky enough to get these specials I will tell you what to look out for if you try clear craft glue: Don't buy anything that can be cleaned up with water - you want methanol or ethanol as the solvent in the glue! Do a test with the glue on something that usually does not bind well to cheap glue, like glass and blister packs. Let the glue dry and peel it off - it should be a clear film that is quite strong and barely streches when you pull it. It almost feels like hard paper. All good so far? Check if the nylon, pla or abs really sticks to it: Spread a very thin layer on a piece of cardboard and let dry. Add another, thicker layer and let dry again. Now hold it under your nozzle and extrude a bit of filament while moving the cardboard around. Let cool and check how good it sticks. In a perfect world the cool plastic should peel the papaer off with the glue. Time to prepare your print bed the same way and to start printing ;) Just use a very thin first layer and for the first layer much lower speeds than usual. I print nylon with 60mm/s and the first layer at just 25mm/s, any faster and the first layer does not look right. ABS and PLA are much more forgiving here.

Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago


3D Printers for Peace competition - ideas that benefit humanity

Michigan Tech University has opened a 3D printing contest: Printers for Peace! They are challenging the 3D printing community to design things that advance the cause of peace. This is an open-ended contest, but if you’d like some ideas, ask yourself what Mother Theresa, Martin Luther King, or Gandhi would make if they’d had access to 3D printing! Prizes:   1st Prize Fully assembled, open-source Type A Machines Series 1 3D Printer The Series 1 recently won best in class in the Make: Ultimate Guide to 3-D Printing. It has a 9-by-9-by-9-inch build volume, prints at 90mm/sec in PLA, ABS and PVA with 0.1mm resolution. 2nd Prize Michigan Tech’s MOST version of the RepRap Prusa Mendel open-source 3D printer kit The RepRap can be built in a weekend. It has a 7.8–by-7.8-by-6.8-inch build volume on a heated bed, prints comfortably at 80 mm/sec ABS, 45 mm/sec PLA, HDPE and PVA with 0.1 mm resolution. 3rd Prize MatterHackers sampler pack: MatterHackers sampler pack of 3-D printer materials of 3 PRO Series PLA spools, Laywoo-D3, Nylon, and Soft PLA. Anyone in the United States or Canada (excluding judges and their relatives) is welcome to enter. Contest closes September 1, 2013. For more information and to enter visit the Michigan Tech site 

Posted by Ivana_Zelenika 5 years ago


Problem with "new topic" posting from top level -- no category list

I started to post a new forum topic, and hit the [New Topic] button from the "Community : all" list. The pulldown menu for Category has no selections, just the two placeholders "Choose one:" and "----------". This might explain the recent spate of postings of uncategorized topics.(Note: I can't do a screen capture because the pulldown menu disappears when I switch windows).I do see that if I switch the Category Group from "in : forums" to something else, and then switch back, the full Category list appears, but I consider it a bug that the list isn't populated ab initio.

Posted by kelseymh 9 years ago


My Costume Picture Entry

So I was hanging out with some buddies of mine in my spartan costume...betcha can't guess which one is me. My costume consists of: Helmet - Cardboard shape, covered in bondo and spraypainted. Bicycle helmey pads inside. Shield - Cut plywood, with a cardboard lambda, covered in bondo and spraypainted. Polyester straps are riveted/gorilla glued on the back. Cape - Scarlet cotton fabric with polyester straps to keep it from choking me. Beard/abs - Mom's eyebrow pencil...If you have experience with spirit gum, use that and fake hair, unfortunately, it didn't cooperate with me. Pantalones - If you're feeling frisky, wear a speedo, if not, brown shorts are acceptable

Posted by Weissensteinburg 10 years ago


Printing your 3D file (5€ start price) !

Hi everyone, I'm a french student and I created a 3D printer. I can print a lot of objects (like prototype part). I want to do that for improve my stuff, and in the future I would work in the 3D printing. I can print in Yellow ABS and Grey PLA. Price; Only 5€ per part + 0,35 per cm3 of plastic. (+ shipping cost) (up to 20cmx20cm) You can use my hub to order or ask me question ! https://www.3dhubs.com/lille/hubs/jimmy Thank you and have a nice day

Posted by jimdu62100 3 years ago


Where to find power knob for Lakewood model 101 box fan

I have a Lakewood model 101 AB box fan that I had in storage for several years and when I took it out to use it, it is missing the rear back power/speed selection knob. It is 1" diam. and needs a small slot in order for it to attach to the post sticking out from the motor. I have spent quite a bit of time searching for this or an appropriate universal knob and I recently learned Lakewood went out of business several years ago. Any ideas on where I can find this elusive part so that I can use my fan? Thank you very much for your help.

Posted by Mooseygina 1 year ago


how to get current track name using breakout shield

Hi! I am using the vs1053 breakout shield from adafruit that is hooked up to Arduino. I wanted to write an if statement that if the currentTrack name is not equal to the name i set it to then the code will restart the loop and they are not equal then it will play the song (this is so that every time the loop runs it won't replay the song if it is already playing ). Do you know how i would be able to get the name of the track that is playing using currentTrack? it is not very clear on how to use it in the library reference...also is there another easier way to do this? Thank you! if (abs(newVector - storedVector) <= SLOW_THRESHOLD) { Serial.println("MOVING SLOW!!"); trackName = "track001.mp3"; if (currentTrack==trackName) {      loop(); } else {      musicPlayer.startPlayingFile("track001.mp3") } }

Posted by jvan27 3 years ago


Two &quot;hot topics&quot; from particle physics -- read the actual papers!

I've noticed that two recent particle physics "discoveries" (what I'd call analysis results) are beginning to get some media coverage, at least in the science press. Below, I provide links to the actual papers (the preprints in arXiv), and a bit of my own opinion. I encourage the curious to read, or at least skim, the papers --- there will probably be a lot you don't understand (these are technical research papers, after all!), so don't hesitate to ask questions.Dark matter "observation" by PAMELA satellite -- excess of high energy positrons in cosmic rayshttp://arxiv.org/abs/0810.4995The PAMELA data are high-statistics, and they've done an excellent job with their systematics anddetector calibration. Their low energy data are entirely consistent with previous results, which makes the excess and plateau seen above 10 GeV rather compelling. I don't think we know enough about conventional astrophysical sources of positrons to have any confidence ascribing this result to "new physics.""Ghost particles" in Fermilab p-antip collisions -- excess of high impact parameters muonshttp://arxiv.org/abs/0810.5357Charged particles (like muons) are identified in big detectors such as CDF (and BaBar) by picking up signals from their occasional interactions with low density material, and fitting a trajectory in space to those "hits." You can't put active detector material all the way down to where the beams collide, so an extrapolation from the detector region to the "interaction point" is required. There can be many complicated and non-obvious systematic uncertainties affecting those fits. The fact that only about 1/3 of CDF was willing to sign this paper suggests to me that the systematics in this analysis are not really under control yet, and any interpretation of the result should be taken with a grain of salt.

Posted by kelseymh 9 years ago


Wanted: Vehicle

Hey there I am a dude who is just trying to find a car, I recently had stolen and it went through a chop shop. The insurance company will only settle to give me a piece of crap settlement fund, so in other words I need a vehicle (preferably running). I live in the central Texas area, and would love some help here because I need a vehicle to get to work and school to pay my bills. Please PM me if you have any ideas or can offer any help on the subject. I only have a few hundred dollars I can spend (the insurance settlement). I don't mind doing a bit of work cosmetically, or even functionally as long as it wont cost me a fortune to fix up front. Thank you. AB

Posted by acidbass 6 years ago


NE Oklahoma Electronics hobbyists: Do you know about Affiliated Electronics?

I just wanted to sing the praises of Affiliated Electronics, a supplier in Tulsa that sells all kinds of electronic components, from basic resistors and capacitors to breadboards, tools, wires and everything else.  In the back of the store they have a wild assortment of salvaged computer and electronic equipment.  It's a heck of a cool place to browse, and everyone is very friendly and knowledgeable. If you're within a reasonable drive from Tulsa, it's worth your time to check it out.  They don't have a website to speak of, but they are listed on Google Maps.  Needless to say I disagree with the review that's posted there. :-) This is their new location.  They moved a year or two ago from a shopping center that was razed.  The new shop is smaller and better organized.

Posted by yoyology 8 years ago


ReCaptcha not working

Hi, Since yesterday I have been trying to reply to a comment on my instructable but each time I do the following happens: I click reply I write the post I click post Then receive the message to type in the two images in the ReCaptcha. I type in the two words and then I receive the message again to type in the two images in the Recaptcha. I have retried several times and the same thing keeps happening. I have cleared my cache in safari, cleared and removed all website data and restarted my laptop. This is extremely fraustrating. I had no problems with it last week and have not made any changes to my laptop. I use an apple macbook and all of the software is up to date. Please see the screen grab attached. Hope you can help. Abs 

Posted by lacrochetdiva 5 years ago


Going to buy one soon but what do I need?

Things that im wondering: 1. Do I use AutoCad or 3d studio max or something else? (At the moment im not 100% on what im making but so far i think ill be building things like Strandbeest or bookmakrs nothing huge but interesting projects. Ultimately I want to find the thing i love making). 2. Robo R1 "ABS+PLA Model" for now seems like the best model for the price (ultimately when im good at it I want to buy a Form 1 "formlabs" for jewelry) 3. Should I grab any 3d model I see and hoard it like a winter squirrel? 4. instructables has always been a great site (Home improvement projects) I just never had a reason to build a profile, are there other sites that would have info on 3d printing? Any help would be great :)

Posted by 1Vega 4 years ago


Is this site for us any more; or is it just all about promoting sponsors' products?

This site used to be fantastic...it really felt like a community where people were generous with what they had discovered and wanted to share with everyone else, and I think most contributors come here, still,  and share with that same attitude. But the vibe has very much changed...and quite clearly the site has become far more focused on its sponsors. What has happened with the search function? When functionality has been limited you know that the site is more about what they want you to see and less about what YOU want to see. And how long before the site only contains Instructables using Duck tape and that modelling clay stuff I had never before heard of but which now seems to be everywhere on this site? I am very disappointed that this site isn't really about its users anymore. I used to recommend it to everyone, but when I brought a friend here yesterday I realised that it isn't what it was. It is a very great shame. (will be interesting to see how long this thread lasts)

Posted by Tinworm 6 years ago


GoPro Scuba Cylinder Mount

Hi there, I'm new here. I've recently found an entry-level 3D online modelling software, Tinkercad and have been Tinkering ever since. I'm into scuba diving and I've long wanted to design a GoPro mount for the cylinder to give a 3rd person view of me while I'm swimming about enjoying life underwater. (Think a less-sexy Lara Croft!) I wanted to run it past you guys to see what you think. I've attached 2 screenshots, because as you can see, the mount I've designed is collapsible, to save space in my GoPro bag. I've done the maths (Pythag) so each side is perfectly lengthed to create a right-angled triangle, with the hypotaneuse (long edge) is facing down my body, towards my feet, so that the camera view won't be obstructed. I've used a Pythag triple, so the arms measure 3", 4", 5". This was done for 2 reasons: a) It was easier to desine using these measurements and b) I don't want it sticking too far up from my cylinder so that it doesn't catch on wildlife/coral/divers. As this is my first GoPro mount that I've designed, I've had to go on deimensions I've found online for the actual hinges. I've settled on approx 3mm for each prong as well as the gap in between. I have actually shaved off .25mm from the middle prong of the 3-pronged-hinge, and left the 2-pronged-hinge at 3mm for the gap and prongs. I'm going to get the pieces 3D-printed by a local service I've found on 3DHubs.com, either in ABS plastic or in resin, though I'll probably go for ABS as it seems to be a bit more hard-wearing, even if it's not so detailed. In terms of mounting it to the tank, I will use 2 headstraps, with the over-the-top strap removed from each one and glue the plastic bits of each of them together, at the correct length of course. I would join them using a seperate piece of plastic and either a hot glue gun, superglue or even some sort of epoxy, whatever lasts longest in prolonged exposure to seawater. I would probably place it nearer the top of the tank, near to where the strap of the BCD jacket goes round it. Does anybody have any advice for me in terms of the design from a functional point of view as well as from whether they think it would actually get a good shot on the camera please? I look forward to your feedback, good or bad!

Posted by JackIsted 1 year ago


GoPro Scuba Cylinder Mount

Hi there, I'm new here. I've recently found an entry-level 3D online modelling software, Tinkercad and have been Tinkering ever since. I'm into scuba diving and I've long wanted to design a GoPro mount for the cylinder to give a 3rd person view of me while I'm swimming about enjoying life underwater. (Think a less-sexy Lara Croft!) I wanted to run it past you guys to see what you think. I've attached 2 screenshots, because as you can see, the mount I've designed is collapsible, to save space in my GoPro bag. I've done the maths (Pythag) so each side is perfectly lengthed to create a right-angled triangle, with the hypotaneuse (long edge) is facing down my body, towards my feet, so that the camera view won't be obstructed. I've used a Pythag triple, so the arms measure 3", 4", 5". This was done for 2 reasons: a) It was easier to desine using these measurements and b) I don't want it sticking too far up from my cylinder so that it doesn't catch on wildlife/coral/divers. As this is my first GoPro mount that I've designed, I've had to go on deimensions I've found online for the actual hinges. I've settled on approx 3mm for each prong as well as the gap in between. I have actually shaved off .25mm from the middle prong of the 3-pronged-hinge, and left the 2-pronged-hinge at 3mm for the gap and prongs. I'm going to get the pieces 3D-printed by a local service I've found on 3DHubs.com, either in ABS plastic or in resin, though I'll probably go for ABS as it seems to be a bit more hard-wearing, even if it's not so detailed. In terms of mounting it to the tank, I will use 2 headstraps, with the over-the-top strap removed from each one and glue the plastic bits of each of them together, at the correct length of course. I would join them using a seperate piece of plastic and either a hot glue gun, superglue or even some sort of epoxy, whatever lasts longest in prolonged exposure to seawater. I would probably place it nearer the top of the tank, near to where the strap of the BCD jacket goes round it. Does anybody have any advice for me in terms of the design from a functional point of view as well as from whether they think it would actually get a good shot on the camera please? I look forward to your feedback, good or bad!

Posted by JackIsted 1 year ago


Stepper Motor Library

Hi! Sorry, I was unable to put library below. So simple and yet so not so simple. How do I get the library in the folder so the program compiles/? Thanks 56Frank library for 28BYJ48 Stepper motor and ULN2003 driver. Here is the source code for our 28BYJ48 stepper motor, ULN2003 driver library, as well as an implementation. Check out the diagram for the wiring. The header file: __________________________________________________________________ #ifndef Stepper_h #define Stepper_h class StepperMotor { public:     StepperMotor(int In1, int In2, int In3, int In4);    // Constructor that will set the inputs     void setStepDuration(int duration);    // Function used to set the step duration in ms     void step(int noOfSteps);    //    for(int sequenceNum = 0;  sequenceNum <= noOfSteps/8; sequenceNum++){         for(int position = 0; ( position < 8 ) && ( position < ( noOfSteps - sequenceNum*8 )); position++){             delay(duration);             for(int inputCount = 0; inputCount < 4; inputCount++){                 digitalWrite(this->inputPins[inputCount], sequence[(int)(3.5 - (3.5*factor) + (factor*position))][inputCount]);             } Arduino         }     } } _______________________________________________________________________ An implementation: _______________________________________________________________________ #include StepperMotor motor(8,9,10,11); void setup(){   Serial.begin(9600);   motor.setStepDuration(1); } void loop(){   motor.step(1000);   delay(2000);   motor.step(-1000);   delay(2000); } Step a certain number of steps. + for one way and - for the other     int duration;    // Step duration in ms     int inputPins[4];    // The input pin numbers }; #endif ___________________________________________________________________ The cpp file: ___________________________________________________________________ #include #include StepperMotor::StepperMotor(int In1, int In2, int In3, int In4){     // Record pin numbers in the inputPins array     this->inputPins[0] = In1;     this->inputPins[1] = In2;     this->inputPins[2] = In3;     this->inputPins[3] = In4;     // Iterate through the inputPins array, setting each one to output mode     for(int inputCount = 0; inputCount < 4; inputCount++){         pinMode(this->inputPins[inputCount], OUTPUT);     }     duration = 50; } void StepperMotor::setStepDuration(int duration){     this->duration = duration; } void StepperMotor::step(int noOfSteps){     /*         The following 2D array represents the sequence that must be         used to acheive rotation. The rows correspond to each step, and         the columns correspond to each input. L     */     bool sequence[][4] = {{LOW, LOW, LOW, HIGH },                           {LOW, LOW, HIGH, HIGH},                           {LOW, LOW, HIGH, LOW },                           {LOW, HIGH, HIGH, LOW},                           {LOW, HIGH, LOW, LOW },                           {HIGH, HIGH, LOW, LOW},                           {HIGH, LOW, LOW, LOW },                           {HIGH, LOW, LOW, HIGH}};                           int factor = abs(noOfSteps) / noOfSteps;    // If noOfSteps is +, factor = 1. If noOfSteps is -, factor = -1     noOfSteps = abs(noOfSteps);    // If noOfSteps was in fact negative, make positive for future operations     /*         The following algorithm runs through the sequence the specified number         of times     */

Posted by 56Frank 11 months ago


How can I plug holes in DIY sound-isolating ear(muff)phones?

After making small holes in my Howard Leight earmuffs (probably ABS plastic) for the wires, I notice they don't isolate quite as well as before. First I tried mixing cornstarch and clear silicone caulk to make a Sugru substitute both to plug the holes and to attach the connecting wires to the over the head piece. Although the Oogoo initially seemed to adhere, it didn't seem to block the noise out, and after a few days it started peeling away. Then I tried something I had lying around for filling in damaged wood. It isolated sound very well and was very hard, but it too came apart from the plastic. Rubber cement held about twice as good as Oogoo, but also peeled away.  On the headband strap I also tried a combination of electrical tape and double-sidded tape, but it too peeled away from the plastic. Now I'm using plastic ties, which I later read someone else on here used and add an artsy touch, but they're uncomfortable. Anyone have any ideas? I've attached a Sansa Clip+ to the earpiece with Velcro.

Posted by Nat2020 6 years ago


Heating box

Hi everybody First of all I want to excuse myself if my english is not perfect. I have a project in mind for a while. I work on construction in Canada and using caulking everyday it get hard to use it during winter if we don't have access to put them inside. So I wanted to build a little box with an heating system that could work on a jobsite generator. I'm thinking about a plywood box nothing fancy as long it work. I though about place 10 ABS/PVC tube that fit perfectly the caulking tube with alots of hole in it so the heat can pass throught it. So the caulking tube can be reached right from the top of the box and due to the hole it won't overheat. So that's the idea so far. What heating system should I use for this system(I don't want to spend alot on money). Maybe I'm thinking about  1 or 2 computer fan to make the heat uniform. I'm thinking about a space where I can put my spare glove to get them dry do you have an idea for that ? And finaly I'm open to any suggestion that can get the box even better ! :) Thanks you

Posted by Lufkum 3 years ago