How should I go about cleaning an i-touch aluminium backing? Answered

Hello, i was wondering how to clean/polish the back of an iPod touch. I have used the dremel polish (but not the felt bit) and a soft cloth, but with no prevail. I have heard that 1500 grit sandpaper might work. any experiences/ideas?

Asked by your dog 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago


elictrolisis will make aluminum powder? help please

I have read about disolving zink or magnesium in acid and colecting it on a electrode as a salt threw elictrolisis. would this work with aluminum ? in new zealand it is hard to buy aluminium powder for thurmite so would like to make my own. i have already colected a usable amount of iron oxide from rusty steel using elictrolisis.

Posted by glassspider2142 11 years ago | last reply 7 years ago


How do i join 2 pieces of metal without welding?

I am going to attach 2 metal tubes ( 1 aluminium and 1 steel) to eachother without welding, as i am only 15. how do i do this the best way? i need them to be very strong as they are forming a steering rod.

Asked by ThaNorwegianDude 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago


Touch Screen Control for the car

Hello, Has anyone thought of replacing all analog controls in a car dashboard, e.g AC, fan, stereo, vent, defogger etc and replacing them with a touch screen that integrates into the dashboard (like the expensive cars). As an example I have included two jpg's Here is what is required: Aluminium milling of the housing Touch screen sensor integration AD converters more...

Posted by razausman 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago


is there anyone that can make a machine to chamfer edges on polystyrene cake dummies ? Answered

We are struggling to find someone to help us make a perfect cake dummy made from polystyrene, we can cut the circles out no problem at all but cannot seem to get a perfect edge around the dummy, Have tried hot wire and a heated aluminium block but quality is poor. Maybe a router or a milling machine?

Asked by nitrusoxide 6 years ago | last reply 5 years ago


any good ideas for a free standing portable and easy to store away laptop stand/holder/desk??

Any good ideas for a free standing portable and easy to store away laptop stand/holder/desk??if possible give me simple but creative ideas for this project. it is for my junior cert. it has to be made from wood and if u wanted to you could add in glass, aluminium, perspex etc. please reply a.s.a.p..thanks for reading.!

Asked by JPB981 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago


How can i focus a magnetron beam from a microwave , to make a small metal forge?

hello I have been looking for a number of ways to cast my zinc with, along with just melting other metals namely aluminium. I have come across the microwave method, however i feel that just using a microwave is a wasteful and hazardous means of meting metals like zinc , since the metal vapors are very flammable, even explosive, even as a dust I thought, since the microwave is basically just a box which the magnetron beams microwaves into, why not build a forge, which consist of a crucible laying in the center-point of a magnetron beam. all this would sit outside, done at a distance to avoid exposure to rouge microwaves. I dont wish to introduce anything new into the equation, just use prexisting things form the microwave, and probably some aluminium sheet. Anyone know if it will work better than just using a microwave? and how i should focus the beam? i want to keep the whole thing as compact as possible, probably which the crucible being no further than 10-20cm from the magnetron. Thanks

Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 7 years ago | last reply 4 years ago


electronics remote control

Could anyone suggest how to build an electronic system for using a radio signal to turn on and off another circuit. what i mean is a transmitter with a button you could hold and press a switch and a reciever in the circuit you want to switch on and off which prevents power reaching the circuit unless you are transmitting. i would want to be able to transmit over atleast 20 metres and through thin walls, aluminium foil and clothing. thanks.

Posted by resistanceisfutileiflessthan1ohm 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago


Electrolytic Capacitor types/ uses? Answered

About electrolytic (aluminium) capacitors..... what do the low ESR ones do that normal ones don't? And how come they have these capacitors in bipolar types, but not all are bipolar? Is it because of the size/cost? And lastly, can you make an LC circuit with any electrolytic capacitor?                                                                                                             Many thanks P.S: In which frequency range are LC resonant ciruits best used? Cos I heard that lower/higher than a specific point, they become impractical or something....

Asked by .Unknown. 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago


How to join 6, 19 inch display panels in one?

Hi guys.! I want to make multi  monitor display. My idea is to disassemble 6, 19 inch HP 1940 square monitor (resolution 1280x1024). And to join there panels at a glass surface like the image below I will manage the panel with glass and aluminium frame. The question is how i will manage there video signal input. Because my GPU have only 4 display ports in it. Waiting for suggestions . Thnks

Asked by assassin.abdul 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago


Open Source Robot

Hi all, im working on an open souce robot design and thought you might like to follow along, Once its finished ill post plans and instructions to the site, but if you want a head start had over toXBR-ONLINE to check it out.The idea is to build a low cost chassis with out a brain or other expensive upgrades , so users can add "read hack" their own systems to the body. This is intended to be a multi purpose body shell with construction options ranging from wood and foam to plastic and aluminium.

Posted by sprocket2cog 11 years ago


i am making a friction drive motorbike Answered

I am make a direct friction drive motorbike with a bmx bike and a 25cc weedeater i am going to mount it on a hinge and i will use a spring to tighten down the spindle. the hinge is just some angle aluminium mounted to the two bottom holes of the engine. the aluminum is just connected two a bolt that goes over the brake cross section. the spring goes from the end of the angle aluminum to the wheel axle. is that enough or do i need more?

Asked by BIGHAIRYDUDE 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago


License question... Answered

I am currently in the finnishing stages of a new aluminium print nozzle for 3D printers. Of course I would like to share my project here soon but I also would like to see if it has any commercial value. I would only be able to make a very small amount of them each month and the hours I have to spend in my workshop for it would not be justified by any price. So if someone would have an interest to mass produce this nozzle what would be the correct type of license to choose from when publishing the Instructable?

Asked by Downunder35m 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago


Anyone have any high-quality machining techniques that can be used in a low-tech situation? Answered

I want to make a CNC machine but I don't have the tools or access to tools that I'd like to make one,  all I have is a simple drill press, a little stand-alone vice that I can use on it, calipers, and micrometers. What I want to know is how can I, limited tools only (I hope), precisely drill (and possibly tap, I do have a tap set) a bunch of holes in aluminium angle/channel, acrylic, and MDF?

Asked by The Ideanator 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago


Can I store ginger beer in screw-top metal flasks?

I used to make ginger beer as a kid in England when there was ample access to screw-top soft drink bottles, but now they are like hen's teeth. I have been saving these sturdy, metal (aluminium, I believe) screw-top flasks which seem to be lined with some plastic material. So, can I ferment my ginger beer in these flasks, as opposed to the always stipulated "glass screw tops"? I am sure they are strong enough to withstand the pressure buildup. TIA

Asked by TheGarpster 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago


Led soldering help

I wanna solder 10 leds parallel and but it in light bulb like in https://www.instructables.com/id/A-Steampunk-lamp-with-muliti-color-LEDs/step2/Preparing-the-bulb/ I don't have aluminium tube. I have only heat shrinking tubes. I found serial scheme http://img.neons.org/archives/LED3rdBrake/image23.gif. I'm thinking to use battery - as ground. I have 100k and 10k resistor. 1m think this is resistor. I dont wanna mess things up or burn someting down.

Asked by DeathSuperMario 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago


Can I weld aluminum with a mig welder if I have flux core wire? Answered

My parents got me and my younger brother a mig welder for Christmas they also got flux core wire because gas is expensive. But my brother keeps saying that we cant weld aluminum with it I have heard of aluminium flux core wire but he still says it wont work. Dose the aluminum flux core wire work any good or is there something else we need to get?

Asked by Dalen Brewer 3 years ago | last reply 5 months ago


Has anyone made there own smelting furnace and how did you do it?

I just need one to start my own mini casting house (my garage to be exact). I want to run it on gas and be hot enought to melt copper, brass , and aluminium. but only on a small scale to make castings for projects i have in mind. I know how the concept works but does anyone know any good tips eg what materials, how hot do it need to go, safety, and anyone how has expience in castings, making them or both.

Asked by jonjon1978 9 years ago | last reply 7 years ago


need help with LARP weapon design and construction

Hi crafters.  I'm in need of help with constructing a larp weapon, fighting fan, that could open up with a press of a button or pull of a lever N close itself upon releasing it. could any help me with the design of the mechanics n gear system I could use to make it work? It should not be of electronic nature though. Here I attached a drawing of how the weapon should roughly looks like . i'm thinking of using rounded edge aluminium flat bars(looks like flat metal ruler) as the bone for the 'blades'. Really appreciate the help.

Posted by meowgod 3 years ago


Old cardboard box wins major "green" prize.

Want to get credit for an idea that is older than you are?Simple - give it a cool name and tie the idea in with trendy green terminology.A cheap solar cooker has won first prize in a contest for green ideas.The Kyoto Box is made from cardboard and can be used for sterilising water or boiling or baking food. It's just a basic solar cooker - cardboard, black paint and aluminium foil - but discussing it in terms of sustainability and carbon credits makes it worth 75,000GBP and potential mass-marketing contracts.(Cynical? Me?)(Story)

Posted by Kiteman 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago


Will a glued acrylic structure hold for a 3d printer ?

Hi,  I'm designing a delta style 3d printer from scratch while trying to use only laser cut acrylic sheets and aluminium extrusions. The entire design is based on the T Bolt construction idea. But there are a few parts that simply need to be glued together. I'm trying to avoid using such joints in load bearing areas but there are a few areas where this is becoming difficult such as the carriage. I'd like to know if i can safely glue the laser cut parts together with out the entire thing falling apart and if yes what kind of glue should I look for? Blckthng

Asked by blckthng 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago


Nordic Gold Answered

I'm planning on making a ring out of a coin. I'll use Euro coins. 1, 2 e 5 Eurocent coins are made of copper covered steel and are too small, so I think they won't be a good choice. 1 and 2 Euro coins are the right size, but it seems that they are made of alloys containing nickel, that may cause allergy. So I think I'll use a 50 Eurocent coin, that is made of Nordic Gold, an alloy (89% copper, 5% aluminium, 5% zinc, and 1% tin). Has anyone ever made a ring out of Nordic Gold? Did it cause allergy or stain your finger?   Did it tarnish? Is it malleable? Thanks

Asked by Fabio M 5 years ago | last reply 2 years ago


Help converting a Greenlite LED light Bulb to DC power?

I have a GreenLite LED bulb that I took apart and cannot for the life of me figure out how to power it via DC without blowing it up. There are 21 LED's on an Aluminium plate, after mapping out the traces there are 3 series of 7 LED's with it running at 43.9-44.0 Volts. So I figure thats 6.2V per LED but everywhere I read White should be 3.0-3.2V  I cannot for the life of me figure out the current and voltage to provide to them without ruining them. Here is some pictures of the whole thing with the board that converts from AC to DC.  the 1,2, and 3's are me just labeling the mapping of the series.

Asked by MrTechGuy 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago


Dimensions of a Xacto knife(the handle part)? Answered

Can some one let me know the dimensions of the handle of the xacto knife? & what material is it made up of?(my guess is aluminium) Well i live in india they are not available here,only way to get them is by importing them(which makes them hell lot costlier). I have a couple of surgical blades and handles that i usually use for my need's but the handle of the surgical blade is a bit flimsy for heavy work's. I am hoping to make a couple of handles with the help of a Lathe(and some other tools) , which should last a good period of time.I intenf to use the surgical blade with the xacto handle(surgical blade no 11)

Asked by Bobblehead Einstein 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago


Update on the layered metal weapons/props

Hello to everyone who took the time to read this update/list. So I have not forgotten about my promise to upload the Solidworks files and cutting plans. However that will be taking a backseat to finals until summer break. I will however go ahead and list off the items finished, in progress, on hold, or currently only in Solidworks form. Finished -6in Axe: 3lb head on an oak clad 1/4in steel flat bar about 20in long total -3in Tomahawk/Axe: 1.25lb head on a para cord wrapped 1/4in steel flat bar about 20in long total -27in BoneSplitter: 3.2lb aluminium reinforced steel construction. -18in BoneCracker: 2lb aluminium reinforced steel construction. -18in All steel BoneCracker: 3.5lb steel reinforced steel construction. More square handle and better center of balance than previous version In progress -10in Bearded Axe: 3.25lb head. To be mounted on oak clad 1/4in steel flat bar handles 18in, and 30in long. -10in blade Pugio: Model made of mild steel for practice and training. Needs to have bevels, and fullers ground plus handle and guard mounted. -8in blade Pugio: Model made of mild steel for practice and training. Needs to have concave edges, bevels, and fullers ground plus and guard mounted. On hold -14in Blade tester: Simple test bed modeled after BoneSplitter to test viability of various band saw blades(Metal and Wood cutting) for use as cutting edge for mild steel blade carriers. On hold due to the band saw blades being too hard to drill through. Only existing as Solidworks files --27in Revised BoneSplitter: 4.5lb Aluminium reinforced steel construction. Better center of mass and more square handle than MY           previous version. --37in blade Bastard sword: Aluminium reinforced steel construction. Should be very close in terms of center of balance and stiffness when compared to its hardened steel companions.  --20in blade Stacked steel Gladius: Twin riveted steel support plates with detoothed metal cutting bands saw blade used for striking edges.  --blade Hispaniensis Gladius: Single piece of metal for the blade. --blade Cinquedea: Single piece of metal for blade. Multi fuller blade. --8in blade Pugio curved: Same as other 8in Pugio except for the convex curved dagger tip --14in blade Spear from Fullmetal Alchemist: May upload the variant of this in which the "wings" are separate pieces of metal. --3.25in square Warhammer: 8.5lb head Assembled from 13 1/4in steel plates pinned together. Front is covered in 3/8in spikes poking through a steel striking face to prevent separation of the plates. Back end is a 4in spike. --5.25 square Warhammer: 16.25lb head Assembled from 21 1/4in steel plates pinned together. Front is covered in 3/8in spikes poking through a steel striking face to prevent separation of the plates. Back end is a 4in spike. --Straight edged War Axe: 7lb head Inspired by Ironclad Industries' Riftclaw. Made from 7 1/4in steel plates pinned together. I am aware that the riveted and pinned construction of these items makes them inherently less durable and less corrosion resistant than single piece construction. However I am a college student who is working with mostly scraps and whatever has to be purchased. Since mild steel thick enough to carve the Warhammers or War Axe is not common scrap material around the college's machine shop the only way to economically create them is to use stacked plate construction. As for the BoneSplitter, BoneCracker, and Bastard sword the stacked plate construction is used to both reduce the weight of the item and stiffen it at the same time.  

Posted by tytiger33 3 years ago


Foldable floating house for two

Hello everyone. I have plans for foldable and floating house fit for 2 people with WC, 2 beds, 2 fishing chairs with tables and maybe a bbq :) I dont have the money to build it but its a dream of mine. I'll be happy if someone is interested and actually build this thing. when folded its 250sm / 150sm / 50 sm h. For the materials i can use steinless steal squares for base, old inner tires for support, light aluminium rods for the roof, some watter resistent fabric for the walls and some custom made beds and tables. I'm working on pictures with some lame architecture program and i'm posting them as soon as i can. I also have schematics of the joints and locking systems ... well if anyone is interested let me know

Posted by WishKeeper 4 years ago | last reply 3 years ago


How do I make a carbon fibre pipe for an air intake?

Hello folks! I'm trying to figure out how I can make a carbon fibre pipe for my cars air intake. I have a semi-flexi alloy pipe which I have managed to bend into shape and it will keep its shape without changing even if I take it out of the engine bay. I was wondering how I would go about making a mould of the pipe to make a replica of it out of carbon fibre for ultra cool points. Plus Carbon fibre helps repel heat better than aluminium. I was originally just going to get a Carbon Fibre vinyl wrap around the pipe but, why fake it?

Posted by apmaman 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago


Metal to Metal Sealant? Answered

Hello Everyone, I want to screw two parts of aluminium 2014 together ..... one is a hollow cube with at-least 5 mm shell width without the top face and one is it's cap/metal sheet with 3 mm height with holes for two m12 to 8mm pneumatic fittings through which pipes will be connected... it is actually a water block ,cooling a part of my next project.. so i want to ask which kind of adhesive or gasket should i use in between them while screwing those two pieces together so that water or any other coolant doesn't leaks from the block and damages the electronic components. A non-native English speaker here, please ignore grammatical mistakes. :)

Asked by _Boltz_ 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago


Jon Boat hand cart

Hello all, it's been a long time since I've posted anything here.  I look at the site at least once a day though, just to see whats new. Anyhow, what I have is a 12 ft john boat that needs some sort of wheel attachment so that I can pull it through the woods between ponds with relative ease. What I have is a little bit of aluminium pipe and some wheelchair parts, as well as various nuts and bolts.  I need a solution that involves no welding or brazing ( i think thats what its called ).  I can cut/drill/bolt all day, but thats about it.  Ive got a couple pics of what i have to work with.  Any ideas would be great.

Posted by kithso 4 years ago | last reply 3 years ago


How make a waterbird (pumpabike)

I am an Engineering science student doing my fifth year at Technology University in Vietnam. Part of our studies involves a final year project, and I have selected one on building a water craft similar in principle to the waterbird. Part of this project will primarily involve modelling this craft, how it works, simulation operation, structure analysis. Ultimately we will build a full size craft and test the design. However, some problems in structure and operating priciples which i don't understand, such as: - Properties spring? - Why they choose NACA 63-412? - time of a cycle action (jump down--> jump up) and amplitude ( only consider rear wing)? - properties aluminium used? Please answer some question? Capacity of English is bad. So, I don't clearly describle my desires. I hope you will sympathize. Very thanks! I hope you will answer in short time!

Posted by quangtruc106 8 years ago | last reply 3 years ago


Help - broken parts

I have a unibody macbook which I have recently broken and would be grateful for your help/advice. I dropped my macbook on the floor. As a result a piece of metal (I think it is aluminium but this is a guess) snapped off the screen (internally). This piece of metal was the piece that the hinge screwed into, connecting the screen and the keyboard and allowed the laptop to close. I have attempted to glue this piece back on with various strong adhesives but these have not been strong enough due to it being hinge. I am writing to ask if you think that a form of welding may be a possible solution. The piece is 1.75cm in length and about 3mm across. As you can see from the photos there are three holes which will hold the screws securing the hinge to the computer's base. The piece is attached to the laptop's screen. I have attached two professional photos which I hope show how the piece fits into the overall mechanism. Your input would be most appreciated. 

Posted by apa261 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago


Thermal insulation/cover for heating water bottle

I am building a water bottle that can heat water inside up to 80 degree Celsius for my engineering project. The design of the bottle is as follows:1. an aluminium or steel flask2. heating coil at the bottom of the flask(for heating)3. battery and circuit for the heating coil is located below the heating coil.I want to design a cover such that a person can hold the bottle when the water is hot. Also, i want to protect the circuit and battery at the bottom from the heating coil. How can I do this? (As of now, i was thinking to spray polyurethane foam around the bottle and use a plastic cover. Also, using a polystyrene board below the heating coil to separate it from circuit board/battery). Are there any other insulating materials that can be used? Considerations for cover and insulation: 1. Should be able to hold the bottle 2. Wash the bottle (hence, waterproof)

Asked by NagarjunG4 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago


Cleaning and tinning mild steel tube Answered

I've bought and cut some lengths of mild steel tube to make chimes for a doorbell. Mild steel has a nice ring to it, which is why I bought it instead of aluminium, but it has already started rusting, so I was thinking of tinning the tube before I build the whole thing. My question is mainly how to clean it properly before I tin it. The outside I can do with wire wool but not the inside. I was thinking of just using vinegar to etch away the rust and then give it a good wash before putting it in the tinning solution. Is this likely to work ok? Also any tips on the actual tinning process would be useful. As far as I know you just make up the solution and then put the tube in it for a set amount of time, but I've never done it before, so it would be good to hear from someone who's tried this.

Asked by ganglion 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago


Making an awesome chandelier - the cheap way?

Hello all I'm very into art and like beautiful things in life. However, beautiful things are typically very expensive. I've found this chandelier/loft lamp that i'm particularly into. It's the Jeremy Close Blossom. It dosen't seem very complicated (ok, it looks complicated, but many parts are exactly the same), but it is very beautiful and very, very expensive. It's a whopping $10,000! The leafs themselves are made out of ceramic and the skeleton is made out of steel/aluminium.  What struck me was: isn't this a project that would be easily accomplished using a mould and some sort of foam? - paint it black and there you go..? The skeleton itself, i imagine, would be constructed by a series of concentric rings suspended on a wire of some sort. The leafs would them be clamped somehow to the rings by some sort of  tightening mechanism.. Any ideas how to do this one? - how would one make the shape of the leafs to make a mould? - are there anything out there on the market that looks like it, but is a lot cheaper?

Posted by tbertelsen 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago


Band saw recommendations

I am looking to get a new band saw for the workshop. My previous experience is in woodwork in large workshops so I have always shared a large band saw but now my place of work wishes to get one and wants to cut a variety of materials. Do you have any recommendations for good small band saws in the UK? Is second hand better than new? Is a tension guide worth it?We would like to be able to cut:Thin sheets of plastic (Acrylic, ABS, HIPS up to 6mm)AluminiumMDF, plywood and wood.Basically items that will made on the CNC or vacuum former.I am the most experienced staff member with this machine and although I have used them extensively for woodwork I have only changed the blades, serviced and cleaned them a handful of times. Does anyone have any advice about good maintenance or band saw use etiquette?Many thanks,

Asked by Roibo 6 months ago | last reply 6 months ago


Needle valve on the cheap?

I need a needle valve or similar to adjust some pressure with more or less precision. Problems I am facing with commercial solutions at the moment: Needs to withstand about 300psi max pressure, must survive contionous exposure to concentrated ammonia vapour. I already wasted too much money on stainless steel valves claiming to be chemical proof and capable of 6000psi only to find out they use seals that turn to goo in the ammonia vapour and fail. And since the stuff is not really healthy, not easy to get, I would prefer something safer. Real problem is also that the thing should be able to allow for good flow rates when opened fully. Modes of operation: During the active cycle ammonia vapour needs to pass through an opening as big as possible while after that the flow must be shut off. The reverse cycle needs to be adjustable from closed to fully open with great detail to control the flow rate. Current ways to compensate: With a ball valves and extra piping I could seperate the two cycles so I won't have to bother with tiny openings but I would prefer to use only a single connection. With a bypass around the needle valve this could be accomplished better but still looks ugly. Materials out of the question: Copper, brass, normal seals based on rubber, nitrile or similar. Questions: I know fully sealed in.line valves exist for LPG system and similar. Are any of these magnetic valves available for the use with ammonia? And if so: Can they be operated with a neodymium magnet instead of the coil? Even stainless steel valves rated for chemical use and high pressure fail quickly on the seals. Is there anything available that does not use soft seals but for example aluminium instead? Thinking spray pump here... One way ball valve systems like used in simple spray pumps are a great thing. With some aluminium tubing I was able to make a simple valve that with some more attention to detail might even work. But of course there no other way of moving the ball then to use a magnet and with sufficient back pressure even neodymium ones fail to get the ball in the open position and keep it there. Now getting this combine with a needle... If, instead of the ball, a magnet in a teflon shell is used on a spindle I could spin a magnet around the outside to turn the valve with great precision. Has anyone already designed such a thing or would I have to start from scratch here?

Asked by Downunder35m 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago


How do I get started?

I've been looking around on here, and all i can find is Arduino stuff and stuff I don't have the money for. I'm a teenage American, I can't solder, and i don't have much wood, aluminium, or other construction supplies around to make things with, nor do i have construction skills or tools. I'm almost always without money, and I don't have a 3-Dimensional Printer / CNC machine / Hobby Club / TechShop / New-Wave Technology That's Required For This 'ible / Computer Program That Costs Lots Of Money/ Arduino or equivalent / Scrap Materials. Pretty much the only thing i could do decently is QBasic, which is hard to find inspiration for, and smashing things with a hammer. Now that I think about it, it's hard to find inspiration or a need for anything. All things considered, how do I get started making Instructables on this site, and are there any good beginner projects that use ordinary household materials or very simple beginner programming languages?

Posted by Fred_Sanford 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago


Simple Light Switch Question

Hi there. Very simple question from an idiot. I'm making a mini puppet of robby the robot from forbidden planet. for the mouth i've a simple set of cheap battery powered leds. There are 20 leds and i've got them in 2 rows of 10. I want to be able to operate them in a really simple way so that the top row comes on or the bottom row or both on to simulate robby speaking. My plan is to split the set of lights into 2 sets of 10 and have each on a circuit where i was going to make a switch for each set that is simply something you press down. Then having the 2 switches next to one another so you can press 1 or the other or both at once simply with your thumb, and i'm thinking of simply using a coke tin aluminium to complete each circuit. I can imagine someone who actually knows what they are doing thinking, this guy knows nothing! and they'd be right! but any tips or alternative methods or even confirming this plan will work are much appreaciated, thankyou.

Posted by Beelord 2 years ago | last reply 4 months ago


What is the hardest titanium alloy i can smelt myself? Answered

Hi, Recently ive been looking into titanium alloying, i have access to a large amount of chemically pure titanium scrap, and want to alloy it into the hardest possible alloy i can, so i can build some very tiny yet strong mechanical objects as well as a titanium knife. the means by which i wish to produce the alloy is with an induction furnace My problem is, ive google searched, but cant find what the hardest suitable titanium alloy is, previously i thought titanium steel was hardest, but then i learnt that titanium aluminium is the best. Everywhere indirect terms are used like "best" and "most " and often they only talk about pure titanium vs steel alloys. Im really confused. I just want to know what the hardest titanium alloy is. What is the best titanium alloy i should make for use as a blade and for high strength structuring, e.g frame body for small robot i want to make as indestructable as possible. thanks

Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago


Wall mounted colapsable massage table

High all, I have a room thats designated for massage and physical therapy. Its not a big room, 10 by 13 feet and it has one wall thats also a roof. So working space is a bit limmited. I have a old but strong massagetable thats made out of steel and has a black leather top. As a pressent i got it from my father inlaw so i dont want to put it a way, but it is however taking a lot of roomspace. So i was thinking on making a construction on my wall to mount it on so it can be folded away to make more room for other activities. Problem is... how do i make it strong enough to hold it in place, not only during idle time but most importent, during long massage sessions. The table weighs in at about 70 kilo's, the frame is solid and the legs are rounded aluminium pipes. O, and the design has to look a weee bit atractive... otherwise clients wil walk away thinking "OMG, LOOK AT THAT FREAKY TABLE!!!" Thnx in advance!

Posted by AriedeB 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago


Which low boiling fluid to use (that won't corrode metals and plastics)?

I'm having a bit of a headache trying to chose and procure a working fluid to use in my solar device. It needs to be low boiling, but as my device so far is involving copper, aluminium and maybe some plastics and rubbers, it would also need to be as non corrosive as poss. Cheap and plentiful are also important, not so much for the prototype, but when these things are ultimately used, they need to be easy to assemble. The four options I'm aware of so far are: Methanol boils at 64.7 °C, I thought it would be easy to get but is turning out quite difficult and maybe expensive, also apparently eats through every material I plan to use. Ethanol Boiling Point: 78.4 °C, easier to get but still corrosive. Hexane Boiling Point: 69 °C, not corrosive (?) but not at all easy to get or cheap. Water Boiling Point: 100 °C, which may be a bit too high. The fluids will be boiling in a non-pressurised but sealed environment, so no atmospheric water will be able to get in or out. Help?

Posted by SolarFlower_org 9 years ago | last reply 2 years ago


Polycarbonate panel thickness for secure windows? Answered

I need to glaze 16 small panes (430 x 275 mm) in very strong, cast aluminium window frames (8 per frame, either side of the door). Is 3 mm frosted polycarbonate going to be impact resistant enough to keep people out? The building these windows are part of is in a fairly remote place, so security is a concern but for cost and aesthetic reasons we don't want to glaze with glass and install a metal security screen. The current ugly solution is boarding them up and securing with screws but this doesn't allow us light inside. Cost is a consideration since I've been given permission by the company that owns the land to reglaze them and if I provide the labour they will supply the materials. 16 off 3 mm sheets, £3.85 each = £61.60 16 off 4 mm sheets, £5.14 each = £82.24 16 off 6 mm sheets, £7.70 each = £123.20 I've found lots of sites shouting "yeah polycarb is badass! It's unbreakable!" but not one that gives an idea for thinner sheets. Am I wasting money by going for thicker sheets? Or if someone's trying to get in might a 3 mm sheet be breakable?

Asked by Jayefuu 3 years ago | last reply 2 years ago


How do i wire up a brand new 2.5hp treadmill motor & speed controller ?

Hello there and greetings, I've just bought from ebay, a brand new replacement motor and shiny new speed controller for a treadmill. The motor is a PM DC cont. duty, 2.5hp @ 230VDC, 9.5Amps.  It has 4 wires coming out of it, Red, Black (connected to the brushes on the motor), and two blue&white; wires which are connected together using spade connectors. The speed controller board is fiited inside an aluminium heat sink case.  It has 7 male spade connectors protruding and they are labelled: LG1: Blue..........(AC1) LG2: White........(AC2) LG3: ..................(Earth Ground) CHOKE: LG4 LG5 AC MOTOR: LG6: Red..........(A+) LG7: Black........(A-) I'm afraid i don't possess the know-how although i'm quite handy and have some faded kowledge of electrics and electronics but i'm afraid im not too sure how to hook it up. Also could someone tell me what kind of power supply i need for this setup. Much appreciated and many thanks in advance.

Asked by jackherer 8 years ago | last reply 2 years ago


Chemicals people would want to make?

Basically I want to know what lab chemicals you want to make, if you know how to make any useful chemicals. please post, I am not responsible for and injury's, fatality's, or "bad things" of any sort that come from this thread, all things posted here are to assumed for informational purposes only.

Posted by mr.space 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago


HCl obtention from bleach and acetic acid (vinegar).

I have always been curious to know if it is possible to obtain hydrochloric acid (HCl) from chlorine-based bleach and acetic acid (vinegar). I found a lot of answers saying that it was impossible and dangerous because you wouldn't obtain HCl; instead, you would get chlorine gas, which is a very dangerous fume that can cost your life. However, I found an answer saying that it was possible to synthesize it, but not directly from bleach. First, you have to mix equal quantities of bleach and acetic acid to obtain hypochlorous acid (HClO) and then you have to add a transition metal oxide (iron oxide, copper oxide, etc.) to get HCl and oxygen gas.  Filled with curiosity and keeping in mind that safety is the priority, I decided to try it out by mixing equal portions of bleach (NaOCl) and acetic acid (C2H4O2), obtaining an aqueous solution of hypochlorous acid (HClO) and sodium acetate (C2H3NaO2).  NaClO + C2H4O2—> HClO + C2H3NaO2 Then, I added copper oxide (rusty pennies) since I know that copper by itself reacts very slowly with HCl, so I could leave it there until the copper oxide had completely reacted with the HClO (leaving clean pennies).  Little but numerous bubbles started to come out which I thought to be the oxygen gas leaving the hypochlorous acid. I waited there until there were no more bubbles coming out which meant that the reaction had finished. To prove that it was HCl, I decided to add Aluminium foil and see if it reacted accordingly. However, nothing happened, so I tried the whole process of mixing bleach and vinegar again but when I got to the part of adding the metal oxide, I did not add copper oxide. Instead, I left it outside in the sun to react since I know that ultraviolet radiation causes fast disproportionation, forming HCl and oxygen gas.   HClO —> HCl + O2 After all the bubbles had finished coming out, I added Aluminium foil to prove that it was HCl. However, noting happened, and again, I obtained the same product as the last time.  I immediately stated to think of possible products that I could have obtained and the reasons why my reaction hadn't worked properly. It was then when I remembered that in the very first reaction (the one of the vinegar and the bleach) I had obtained a side product that I had completely forgotten about; sodium acetate (C2H3NaO2). And I suspect that this side product could have affected the whole process.  And that is my question; was it really the sodium acetate that one that affected the experiment or could have it been something else?

Posted by Joseluismi 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago


So I'm trying to find the focal point of a satellite dish.

The dish is oval, and I am not sure if it is parabolic/spherical. Here is a picture, with measurements: http://s753.photobucket.com/albums/xx180/EternityTransfer/ I'm not too sure how this dish focuses, as it seems that vertical waves will be focussed differently to horizontal ones, due to the oval shape and that the depths are different depending on which axis is measured. I ideally want to make a parabolic microphone from this dish. There seems to be a focal point about 60cm from directly above the center of the dish, but when viewed from very off-centre angles, the dish seem to have other points too. How would I determine the "optimal" one? It is coated in a thin layer of aluminium foil, which I put on to reflect light when finding the focal point. Unfortunately there are no serial/part numbers, and the dish is missing its feed horn and support so I can't approximate the focal point form there or from datasheet(s). Any help would be greatly appreciated. EDIT: Oh and the dish originates in South Africa, and is stamped with a number which looks like a date of manufacture: 19950610. Googling the number yielded no results so its probably a date.

Asked by LinkVanyali 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago


Anti-fog Mirror System

First of all, thanks to this comunity and all the DIY it has. Its a great group and has many interesting ideas. This is my first post, after one week reading all the projects, so hello to everyone. I want to make an anti-fog system for my bathroom mirror, because every time I bath it creates fog and makes difucult to shave after. I know about anti-fog sprays and DIY detergent solutions but there is also an electrical solution. The one I have in mind is a wire attach to the back of the mirror and conected to the electricity, so it generates the hot enough to avoid the fog. I saw one that also covered the zigzag wire behind with aluminium foil to (I thinkk) spread the heat more uniformly. What for sure I don't know, is about anything I should put to transform the electricity and resistance or whatever, because I thinks I can just conect the wires alone behind it. Can anyone help me with this? Two more things, in my country (Argentina) we use 220 voltage current instead of 110 like USA. Second, excuse my english and mistakes as it is not my native language. Thanks in advance to all the comunity !!!!

Posted by cbasualdo 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago


idea for a simple and thin contact based sensor

Hello instructacles, I'm trying to build a simple contact-based set of sensors embedded in card board, paper or thin plastic sheets. I want to make a simple game for my kids that could detect/react to the presence/absence of some random items positionned on such a board? (empty glass bottle of coke, cereal box, shampoo bootle, you name it) Ideally i would use something like those books for kids where they have metallic threads "printed" on think plastic sheets and when you press them, it triggers a music. But i dont know how to print metal basically. don't really know how to get started. I was thinking of sewing conductive thread but i'm not really sure it would work. I have seen many attempts with aluminium foil (ex: https://www.instructables.com/id/Interactive-Art-With-Scratch-and-Makey-Makey/) but those are based on the fact that a human finger touches them (basically it uses the conductivity of skin), whereas in my game i was to use the weight of random objects from the house (in the 50g to 500g range typically) Any idea how i should get started ? thanks fourchu

Posted by fourchu 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago


XYZ Recumbent Trike

So I've been wanting a recumbent bike to help me get in shape. I'm far enough out of shape that a standard bike is uncomfortable to the point of being a deterent. The biggest obstacle to me is the price. Even the Terra Trike which is supposed to be an affordable, entry level option is almost a grand even bare bones. I tried looking on craigslist but even used ones rarely dip below 800. So I looked for something I could diy. My biggest obstacle on that front is I don't own, or know how to use a welder. I think I've found something promising though.  There is a group in The Netherlands called N55. They are sort of a engineering/art collective and they focus on things to improve modern life. One of the projects they have out there is their XYZ Vehicles. They are pedal powered vehicles designed so that they can be put together with a minimum of tools. All that really should be needed is a power drill, some wrenches and a metal saw. From what I understand, they do classes where they build the 2 upright versions, the bakfiet and the tadpole design with the cargo box, but these are all over in europe and I am in Arizona so... I haven't been able to find anyone as of yet who has made one of the recumbents here in the states and posted about it. I would love to do this and post it as an instructable but I need some help. All of the materials list is metric and while I personally think a base-10 system makes a heck of a lot more sense that what we call standard measurements, I'm still not familiar with metric. So my question to the community is, should I convert all the measurements to standard or is there someplace i can buy these materials from here in the states in metric sizes? B I L L O F M A T E R I A L S : B O L T S & N U T S M6 SELFLOCKING NUTS, stainless (DIN985) - ca. 150 pieces (TWOSEATER: 200 pieces) M8 SELFLOCKING NUTS, stainless (DIN985) - ca. 5 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) M8 NUTS NORMAL, stainless - ca. 5 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) M6 and M8 BOLTS with Hexagon head, stainless, (DIN931): 6mm x 140 mm - ca. 2 pieces (TWOSEATER: 3 pieces) 6mm x 90 mm - ca. 15 pieces (TWOSEATER: 20 pieces) 6mm x 90 mm - ca. 5 pieces in DIN 933 (full thread) (TWOSEATER: identical) 6mm x 60 mm - ca. 60 pieces (TWOSEATER: 120 pieces) 6mm x 65 mm - ca. 10 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) 6mm x 40 mm - ca. 25 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) 8mm x 120mm, 2 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) 8mm x 100mm, 2 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) M6 WASHERS - ca. 300 pieces (TWOSEATER: 400 pieces) M8 WASHERS - ca. 10 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) A L U M I N U M 2x25x25mm ALUMINIUM SQUARE TUBE: 15m (TWOSEATER: 34m) 3x30x30mm ALUMINIUM SQUARE TUBE: 1m (TWOSEATER: 2.5m) 4x60mm ALUMINIUM FLAT: 1m (TWOSEATER: identical) 2x22mm ALUMINUM ROUND TUBE Ø 22mm: 1m P L A S T I C S 3x880x340mm POLYCARBONATE SHEET (TWOSEATER: 2 times) ENDCAPS (PE), black, for 2x25x25 tubing: ca. 70 pieces (TWOSEATER: 100 pieces) ENDCAPS (PE), black, for 3x30x30 tubing: ca. 10 pieces (TWOSEATER: 15 pieces) POM or PE black, round Ø 25mm: ca. 0,3m (TWOSEATER: 0,5m) POM or PE black, square 21x21mm: ca. 0,6m (TWOSEATER: 0,5m) POM or PE WASHERS M8: ca. 20 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) M I S C E L L A N E O U S AXIAL NEEDLE BEARINGS M8: 4 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) NYLON SPHERE w. screwthread, black, diameter 50mm: 2 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) NYLON RIBBON, black, width 25mm, for seat side support: 1,7m (TWOSEATER: 3,5m)

Posted by dark8587 3 years ago | last reply 9 months ago


what makes the best flash powder?potassium permanganate or nitrate?

Hello, currently performing operation "shoe candle" , for yowee. this operation is basically videoing the destruction of various fruit using flash powder or hmtd in a small 1-2ml glass vial. now, i have chosen my prefered explosive to be flash powder because after seeing the damage hmtd does when detonated in this way, i became frightful for my own safety, considering it lifted 1kg of dirt 30cm into the air and destabilizing it and making it fell as if it were dug up and loosly fille din again. ANYWAY i have come across a slight problem because i cant readily make aluminim powder enough to experiment with flash powder concuctions, and also i have about 4kg of finely powderd potassium nitrate lying around, wheras permanganate costs $10 for 25g at the pharmacy i would like to ask you instructables members, would flash powder made with potassium nitrate combust better than flash powder made with potassium permanganate the current mix i am using is 3 parts permanganate / 2 parts aluminium powder/ 1 part sulfur apparently this is the recipe for the old M-80's firecrackers i want to know if a equal or more powerful mix can be used by using potassium nitrate whoever answers will receive a best answer from me

Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 7 years ago | last reply 7 months ago