How to make an engrave plate out of copper?
Asked by smoke_d8 8 years ago
Its two foot tall, it has already built inlets and outlets, also a copper screw top to allow heating element to be placed inside, i also have copper fittings
Asked by patrick murray 8 years ago
Hi, I'm asking about how to drill on copper or silver chips? I mean if there is material or chemicl help to drill on copper or silver chips to write on it or to draw. in other words how to draw or write on copper or silver chips, pls help thanks
Asked by canadian nh 9 years ago
I was cleaning my room and found remnants of a chemistry set. any ideas
Asked by vince 09 9 years ago
Hello , am trying to get a hold of some copper carbonate but its much too expensive. now i have some raw, and untarnished (beyond normal anyways) copper laying around and want to know if theres any way i can convert this into pure copper carbonate, with minimal impurities such as copper oxides and such. is there a way to do this through electrolysis perhaps? also, is there a way to convert copper and copper oxide to copper hydroxide which i can simply add carbonic acid to to copper carbonate? also whoever answers my question will get a best anser form me , guaranteed
Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 7 years ago
I want to know because I have always wonderd this
Asked by nerd7473 5 years ago
I have bought a copper kettle through ebay, but found that it has a split seam which leaks at the bottom of the spout. I cant solder it as solder is lead an not safe for consumption. Any advice would be welcome, thanks.
He mentions using a laser printer for copper etching, can I use my ink jet printer and get the same results?
I'm working on a project that requires soldering a 1/4" OD copper tube into a hole drilled in the side of a 2" copper pipe. Will a soldered join (not brazed) be sturdy or do I need to do something to reinforce (cut threads into the tube and pipe, flare the tube and insert from inside, etc) it? There won't be a lot of stress on the join but there will be a small tap on the tube to there may be a bit of torsion now and again. Thanks for your responses!
Posted by Mr. E Meat 6 years ago
Hi I want to refine some copper and change it to copper-dust-particles by means of copper-electrolsis in a bath of disolved coppersulfate. Since my copper is in smaller bits id like to have some sort of etallic basket to hold the scraps. I think i would like to go with a chromesteel-mesh i connect to the power. The mesh/basket contains my scrap-copper and the anode-sludge can pass thru the basket... The basket (anode) and the copper-cathode are connected to the powersupply. Now my question: I think the chromesteel shouldnt get disolved as long as i dont crank up the voltage too high or let it run without sacrificial copper at the cathode. If i would do that, it would start to split the water used in the solution and produce H and O. Bad. Also would slowly eat away the metals too. Bad^2 But as long as i have copper to be disolved at the cathode, it shouldnt do anything to my chrome-steel-basket, right? Thanks for inputs from someone who knows it better than i do :)
Posted by Orngrimm 4 years ago
I'm trying to deposit metallic copper into a piece of wood and i'm doing it with a solution of copper chloride (the alternative pcb etchant to the ferric stuff). I want to deposit metallic copper into the wood where it has soaked in and remove the chlorides altogether. Bearing in mind that i don't want much in the way of another solution, how could it be done? Could I drop in some lead to precipitate out the chloride ions or is there something else that would steal the chloride ions from copper that wouldn't be too hard for a hobbiest to obtain?
Asked by The Ideanator 6 years ago
If you have say 2 inch or better diameter copper wire to strip here is what I do. I have ben in the scrap arena for years. Buy a large handeled pair of shears that are only for copper. They will look much like a large pair of boltcutters. Cut your insulated wire into about two foot lenghts. Get a large pot, the bigger the better and heat with an out door propane burner full of water. Place the cut sticks of wire into the boiling water fro about five min. Get some insulated rubber gloves and a sharp razor knofe and you will find that the plastic insulation carves away like butter. This works on everykind of insulated wire I have come across. With lead wrapped insulated wire, get a plasma torch. It cutts easily and is so fast the plastic wire inside does not have time to catch on fire. Use plenty of ventilation to avoid breathing lead based fumes.
Posted by beserker 6 years ago
How much copper will 1lb of Anhydrous Ferric Chloride dissolve? How much water does the Ferric Chloride need to be dissolved in? Thanks
Asked by arthur92710 8 years ago
When you view light through a copper pipe you see all these neat rings I wondered if anybody knew why. Thanks
Asked by nurdee1 6 years ago
I need several strips of copper and zinc for a science project but its frustratingly hard to find zinc anywhere in the Seattle area. I have already tried the local electronics store and plumbing store. Can you guys suggest anything not outrageously expensive and within an hour driving distance?
Posted by Plastic Fir 10 years ago
We are in the process of laying a copper penny floor in our entryway. Is there a clear coat for the uppermost layer that will bond to the pennies, and stand up to foot traffic and cleaning? Thank you for your time and consideration!
Asked by laurel1020 4 years ago
I know that there is copper wire, a rare earth maget, but what would the casing be made from?
I love demolishing things for parts. Often a broken AC motor is left over. Usually it contains a decent amount of copper. But the copper is mostly deeply embedded in iron (a core or a ring around it made out of stacked steel plate). Since it has been put inside the iron there must be a method to take it out. Copper prices are very high. If it can be separated quickly without melting the whole thing down, I would consider doing this myself. How?
Asked by BobS 6 years ago
So I really like this clock. I think I'll buy it soon. But as a beginner's art project, I'm trying to replicate some of the metal effects here. I'm curious for techniques on how to accomplish some things, like: The back plate is copper, which the artist says is "oxidized". I expect oxidation to turn copper green, blue, or black, not this silver/grey color. Any ideas how this was done? Is it just that it's a light oxidation? I really like the metal texturing here. I've been able to replicate something similar on copper plate by hand-sanding in one direction with a fine-grained sandpaper. But notice the vertical texturing on the backplate - how would that have been done?? I like the polished metal look of the minute hand contrasting with the reflective look of the hour hand. How would you do that - similar way as the backplate? Same with the gear? I've actually made what I think are much prettier nails by taking old (originally quite rusted) square iron nails, removing the rust and grinding the crap out of them with a bench grinder until I get a cool reflective finish. Doing the grinding in patches gives it almost a hammered metal look while keeping the reflectiveness. I think the effect is cool and really works with the "old-but-new" look of the square nails. I'll post before+after pictures if anyone's interested.
Posted by ischorr 7 years ago
I'm looking for input on the process of electroplating non-metal materials. I have never electroplated before and am open to trying the traditional method or the paint on plate solutions that are available. I'm just uncertain where/ how to begin and what to buy. The hurdle is that the items I want to plate are not metal to begin with. One website I read seemed to suggest that painting the object with a paint that contains metal flakes (like Liquid Leaf faux gold leaf, which contains soluble copper) would be enough to get a paintable silver plate to bond. Anyone have experience to weigh in with? I welcome suggestions for techniques, favorite products, etc.
Posted by ashleyjlong 2 years ago
I've replaced my bbq grill burners with some i made out of copper pipe. Is it safe to use copper as burner material?
Asked by userman2222 8 years ago
I was wondering how to remove the copper from an air conditioning motor. It is wound around the metal in several different places, and has a heavy papers inserted into each hole where the copper is looped/ The only way I have found is to take a screwdriver and pound each hole with a hammer to push the copper out. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions. Trying to scrap several motors of there copper.
Asked by tweetygirl0612 7 years ago
How can you dissolve the silicon (and possibly solder) off of a PCB to leave the copper traces? Thanks
Posted by LinuxH4x0r 9 years ago
Hello, I'm new to working with wood, and I want to find a way to inlay pieces of copper into small pieces of wood. Can someone explain how I might do this. I want the copper pieces to be flush with the wood, and I like an element of spontaneity, so I'm wondering if its possible to pour molten copper into a crevice on a piece of wood. If it's not how can I at least get the piece of copper to stick into the wood? Thanks for any thoughts.
Posted by kpryce 2 years ago
I have a bunch of old PCBs laying around from various electronic projects, things I took apart and re-purposed, etc...Seeing as copper is roughly $0.25 per ounce, I would like to remove the copper from these PCBs, and sell it to a local coin shop that buys various scrap metals. I plan on sanding the solder mask off first, but after that, I don't know how to remove the copper from the fiberglass. Maybe just electroplate it onto another piece of copper? Please give me suggestions, thanks!
Posted by metrogdor22 7 years ago
I am trying to make money by salvaging copper from old junk like tranformers. I wanted to know where I could find the following items for salvaging: UPSs. Uninteruptable power supplies have really nice power transformers with lots of copper. Old welders. These have lots of copper in the windings and cables. Power Line Transformers. I have read these have about a hundred dollars worth of copper in them. I would like to get these for free or very cheap. Thanks.
Asked by nurdee1 6 years ago
I have an old house that uses steam heat and has big, single-pipe, cast-iron steam radiators. I wanted to replace one of them with something modern looking, and one company sells such radiators, but they are very expensive (sold here http://steamradiators.com/) My question is, can I make one of these out of large (1.5" or so) diameter copper pipes, soldered together in the same fashion? I've read that steam systems typically operate at 1psi of pressure, which sounds like it's well below the safety limit of copper pipes and solder joints. I think it would look fantastic, but would it work?
Posted by mhj555 7 years ago
I bought a book from Home Depot to learn about household wiring: http://www.amazon.com/Wiring-Complete-Editors-Creative-Homeowner/dp/1580111602/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1279657048&sr=1-1 On pg. 238, about lightning protection systems, it says, "...these instructions are for copper only-do not use copper with aluminum." Why shouldn't we use copper components with aluminum? It's essentially just a couple of lightning rods and a cable leading to a ground rod. I can scan the page if you'd like to read it. They made it sound fairly important.
Asked by Vorenus 8 years ago
In my enameling work, I sometimes use a mild homemade pickling solution to remove firescale (cupric oxide) from copper. The pickle is a saturated solution of white vinegar and kosher salt, kept hot in a Crock Pot. After heating the copper pieces in a kiln, a layer of cupric oxide forms on the surface, which is then dissolved in the salt/vinegar solution. After a while, the solution turns a lovely blue color from the dissolved copper. If I forget to put the lid on the pot, eventually the solution evaporates, leaving pretty blue crystals that look a bit like copper sulfate. So, what have I got here? I don't want to just dump it due to the copper content. I'd like to figure out something to do with it, but first I need to know what it is. I'm thinking it might make a good electroplating solution, but that's just a guess.
Asked by RavingMadStudios 8 years ago
I live in estonia. No bamboos here. So I was thinking to use copper tube. I find this http://www.aflauta.com.br/hist/bamboo.pdf Problem is inside diameter and wall thickness. If i'm getting it right for every key is right inside diameter and lenght I can buy straight copper tubes/pipes: 15mm(outside diameter) x 1,05mm(Wall thickness) 1,05x2=2.1mm 15-2.1=12.9mm(inside diameter) 18 x 1,0 1,0x2=2 18-2=16 12 x 1,0 1,0x2=2 12-2=10 10 x 0,8 2x0,8=1,6 10-1,6=8,4 Whats the best? I was thinking to use 15mm and 18mm tube 18mm for key a 15mm for key d I ended up with 15x1,05 copper tube. Thinking how to use this: http://11wall-west.com/~ph_kosel/flutomat.html If I use this measures http://www.phy.mtu.edu/~suits/pvcflute.html I get 7.2mm for blow hole and 6mm for finger hole. My tube I.D is 12.9 Is there any flute calculator that calculates hole sizes for right key? I am also thankful for any flute related help what helps me to make copper flute.
Posted by DeathSuperMario 3 years ago
Hi ... do you know, how to remove the copper layer from a PCB - by not using any ETCHING METHOD. Just to separate the cooper from plastic/f.glass ??? Do you think, that HEAT would do the trick ??? Like when you hold soldering tip to long on a pcb, it can happen that the cooper film become loose from the PCB. Thank you in advance. Zholy P.S. : The reason, why I asked = I was thinking of creating/extending a "ribbon cable" : 1. remove the copper film 2. stick it to the foil, that you can laminate 3. put the "ribbon cable pattern" on the film and ETCH it. 4. laminate it ... and cut the just the top of the laminate foil at the ends, so you have clear cooper for the contacts, but the bottom laminate film as a support.
Asked by zholy 8 years ago
Hi! Few months ago I saw very interesting project. It was a barrel with attached copper pipes. This pipes was bend in the letter "o" and there were standing in the fire. Thanks to this the water in the barrel was hot. If it help the pics were taken on the beach in the night Thanks for any help MAGx2
Posted by MAGx2 6 years ago
hello, i would like to know, what the best way would be to separate tin from tinned copper wire. i recently attempted to build a MOT welder and now am left with quite alot of wire, and i require the tin for tin oxide. im wondering, what would i need to do, after i dissolve all the wire in hydrochloric acid, to extract the tin? its my understanding that tin and copper chlorides decompose easily into their oxides, and i only need somewhat pure tin, as the electrode connector for my MMO titanium mesh (the part which will stick out of the cell which i will connect the cables to), and i only need roughly 70-80% pure tin metal, which i will reduce using my furnace and some pure carbon, in order to get a metal. or would it be ok for me to just melt the metals as is and let them separate in the crucible, and have all the fiberglass and resin just burn off? otherwise, would heating their chlorides (i require a soluble form to filter away resin and fiberglass), yeild tin oxide and not copper oxide, or would weaker acids like carbonic acid be able to dissolve the tin? sorry for all the questions but i really need some tin and i dont wanna blow this one shot i got here! i already have a theory on how this will all work, i just require a second (somewhat) proffesional) opinion. also i am already taking full precautions to ensure i dont get chlorine poisoning, so dont bother with the warnings. thanks.
Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 7 years ago
I managed to plate a copper trace onto piece of acryllic today, to test out a process for easily and cheaply making (and possibly editing/repairing) custom PCBs. The adhesion appears to be good for surface preparation used so far, and a nice thick track has formed. So, would it be worth uploading an instructable once the process has been refined a little (or enough to make simple boards properly)? Any questions, feedback or comments would be appreciated.
Posted by The Skinnerz 6 years ago
I'm just starting out but most of the instruction I've seen on soldering (jewelry) talks about flux, the solder itself, and a torch or soldering iron. When soldering copper to copper is there a special flux and solder to be used so that the solder doesn't look "silver"? Does it matter whether you use a torch or a soldering iron?
I have only been working with copper since I can get it for free. Is there a solder that is copper so it will match the copper wire? I have tried soldering with a soldering iron and that goes well (no need for the pickle process), but the solder is silver-colored.
Asked by Patscrafts 1 year ago
Cani use an inkjet printer to copy te layout on the copper coated board?
Asked by aravinds34 10 months ago
I would like to force oxidization in specific areas on a copper sheet. Possible?
Asked by Art-ist 7 years ago