HI IM HADI FROM IRAN
Posted by albazir 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hi, I’m hoping someone could help me. I’m looking to design a circuit for a college project that controls a 240v light. The circuit and light will be controlled by a switch however when the switch is first turned on the light needs to remain off (no power supplied) regardless of the amount of time the switch is on. If however the switch was turned on off and on again then the light needs to come on. Any ideas of a circuit and components required to produce something like this? Your help is greatly appreciated.
Posted by Worby10 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
Design Challenges will be in addition to our other contests. Here is what makes them different than our traditional contests and challenges: You do not create step-by-step Instructables for these contests. Create 3D designs using Fusion360, Tinkercad, or any program that allows you to make .STL files. Design Challenges can only be entered from the contest page. We will usually provide start files to get you started (this will be dependent on the contest and its theme). Our first one is the BOSEbuild Design Challenge. If you have questions specific to the BOSEbuild Challenge, the Speaker Cube, or creating your own custom designs, you can post those questions here. If you have questions about Design Challenges and what they are going to be like, post them here! *If you want to upload more than 1 STL file, upload your main design file in the "Add Design File" section and upload any supporting renders of the design, additional .stl files, or other relevant images to the "Add Images" section.*
Posted by Penolopy Bulnick 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
The BOSEbuild Design Challenge encourages creative expression through the creation of 3D printable designs for the BOSEbuild Speaker Cube. The Speaker Cube is a build-it-yourself Bluetooth speaker engineered for curious minds. It allows for hands-on exploration of how a magnet and coil work together to make a speaker work. The finished Speaker Cube is built from a clip and panel system. You can design your own custom clips and panels and silhouette covers to be 3D printed to create a whole new personality for your finished speaker. And the best part is, the speaker will still work and sound great! The Design Challenge will run from June 19 to July 31, 2017. The winning entries will win an Ultimaker 3D printer, BOSEbuild Speaker Cubes, or Bose Headphones. This forum topic is for the discussion of any questions you have about the Speaker Cube, creating your own custom designs and any other questions you have about the design challenge. We are excited to see what creations you come up with.
Posted by bosebuild 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
Hello all, The left panel in the image I have uploaded represents aluminium frame, 1mm thick. What I would like to do is design another aluminium or plastic piece that can snap into the inside of this frame (something like the right panel in the image). The frame, once positioned in, would be a permanent fixture. I have looked at different kind of snap-fit joints but I'm not sure on what's the most appropriate design in terms of simplicity and functionality. Another issue is calculating the actual dimensions of the snap-fit joints. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Posted by Ribenaisnice 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I dont know if anyone is familiar with the Star Wars Old republic T3-M3 Droid. I have just stated building a full size replica of this Droid but could do with some advice on the neck mechanism. The head is going to be reasonably heavy but I want it to be able to pan, tilts and rotate reasonably fast. I have looked at using servos to control the pan and tilt and motor to rotate or i could use linear actuators. Does anyone have any ideas on how I could build a simple but effective system, or even better have any working models of drawings I could look at to get some inspiration, I have builders block.
Asked by DELETED_podpadstudios 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Our group at Autodesk is thinking about making an app to help people design custom jewelry, since the current options are slow, expensive, and hard to use. If you've made your own jewelry or worked with a pro to have a custom piece made, our summer intern Kristen would love to pick your brain for 15-30 minutes to learn what features would be most useful to you in a jewelry app. If that sounds like fun, just reply here and Kristen will contact you to set up a phone or Skype chat. Thanks!
Posted by canida 5 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Is there any software that is specifically designed for making cardboard/wood/paper/etc blueprints? Something that you fold together like Google Cardboard. Something that I can print out on a sheet of paper to fold together. Thanks, knexpert1700
Asked by knexpert1700 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
The ATMega328P datasheet specifies a load capacitance for a resonator from 12-22pF but the only 2 Resonators that will fit in my design (from Digikey) have 10pF and 33pF internal capacitors. Which one should I use, the 10pF or the 33pF, and what are the tradeoffs? Here is the atmega328p datesheet
Asked by DELETED_MakiY2 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
I'm planning to build a one man electric aircraft without the use of batteries. But to make it the best i can i want it to be designed very well. And since i don't have enough experience with designing i really need some help on that part. The electrical part i can do myself just like building the aircraft. If there is anyone who can and want to help me i'd really appreciate it. For more details on the project please contact me.
Posted by johnny13 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hi, I want to buy a Magna Doodle and hang it in my room, to write notes on. Now I always use little square papers, but I always have piles of those papers everywhere and with a Magna Doodle I don't use paper so it is greener. But does any of you know if there is a Magna Doodle or something similar from a different manufacturer that has a more adult design? If not I'll just try to adjust one.
Posted by merijnvw 8 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Is this a good design for a a foundry burner? The hose hose for the natural gas are connected with jb weld. The thing on the back is a way to connect my output of my shopvac to the burner. The pipe attached to the other pipe is for the oil hose to be connected to. The front is tapered inward for a venturi effect. Its welded to the other pipe and I think I might put some jb weld over it to air proof it. I need to grind down the front of the oil pipe to make it flat with the outside pipe.
Asked by snowluck2345 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
After getting a little KAP rig together, it weighs in at just under 300g. In fairly low winds (5mph say) What sort of kite is able to lift that mass? Will my current delta do the trick? (100cm span). I know that this is a very broad topic for discussion and it is full of complexities, requiring me to use my initiative - I am up for the challenge!
Asked by DELETED_zoltzerino 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hello everybody! I've moved most of my robotics projects to Let's Make Robots (All LMR are belong to us!) and I'm gonna do some wood-working now! I decided to build a kayak. Why? I dunno, I want to build one, and I always wanted to go kayaking. No I'm not gonna go take lessons (tips/tricks are welcome), I'll train myself. I'm expecting a couple capsizes. LOL. Anyways, I found a program that helps to design kayaks called Kayak Foundry. The software tells me where to put the sheer strip, where the waterline will be, and it also generates the forms to build from. The only problem I have is that this thing will cost $400-$450 to build. Before I invest that kind of money in a possible failure, I need to know if I have a stable design. Below are the cross sections and a model I made in Google Sketchup (gotta love free software!). Take a look at them, I need to know: -Is the design stable -Will it float with a 185lb man in it The software gave me a stability rating of 90 (out of 100, with 40-50 being a racing kayak) Also, there are pictures of data from the software. the red line on the graph is my design, the black line is the target. Also, on the volume distribution curve, the line should be right in the middle (the cockpit or whatever it is called should be in the middle of the boat.) I guess I forgot to save or something. If you can help, please do. I'd rather not spend $400-$450 dollars on an unstable boat that always capsizes. Thanks, Gimmelotsarobots
Posted by gimmelotsarobots 9 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I need a simple, not powerfull, linear engine. It has to move just like an inch back and forth, chaning directions on its own when it reached the end of his stroke. Even 5mm would be enough movement. I think about of something based on a neodymium magnet in cylinder shape. It has to be as simple as possible, i don't need any control for frequenzi, because if it works.. i can work out more from there on my own. Only thing important, it has to be small, like the lenght of a half pencil and 2cm in diameter would be ok (for the moving part, electronics placed elsewhere don't matter). A normal rotating engine with a shaft doesn't work for the design i have in mind :(
Asked by wupme 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Hey Everybody, I'm new to the community here, and i am hoping that with so many great minds on this site, some great ideas will be generated. the deal is, for a competition, my school needs to build a small car, around 1foot by 1foot, and it is propelled by three average sized rubber bands, it need to travel three meters straight, make a 90 degree right turn on the spot and travel 2 meters to stop in a parking zone, it has to turn and do the whole course unaided, Any great ideas? Thanks for helping me out
Posted by techball 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
So i am pretty good in electronics, im curently modifing a circuit and just found the value of the resistors with the ohms law. i have to lower from 12volts dc to 3.5 volts dc to a 300mA consuming high powered led with the cathode to the ground. if my calculations are right i would need to use a 30 ohm 3w resistor, should i take a 4w so the heat is not too intense? the led is not going to be light up always, its going to oscillate on music(color organ). are my calculation right?
Asked by pbergeronronronron 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi I am new to electronics but I have studied the basics and the logic. I have 6 3000 farad supercapacitor from Maxwell(not the boost cap one) with a power rating of 3 watt- hour, so each capacitor holds about 10.8 kilo watts(3 watt x 3600 seconds= 10,800 watts). So I have been wanting to make a power supply out of these and two types have ran across my mind: 1. Turning them to a voltage multiplier type of circuit( so like a voltage multiplier but the capacitor is these capacitors). So I would have an output of 500 amperes(6 3000 farad capacitors in series would have a capacitance of 3000f/6=500f) and output voltage of 16.2 volts. For charging this power supply I will use a step down transformer connected to the mains with some circuit breaker, fuse, switch and ballast/ resistor at its input, the transformer will step it down to approximately 2 volts ac which then I will rectify with a bridge rectifier. 2. Putting them in parallel so I would have a total capacitance of 18,000 farad at 2.7 volts, and putting them in parallel with my power supply. So this works by charging the bank and the bank will discharge when fully charged. The power supply will be the same like the first design power supply. However this circuit seems very risky and I might need some feedbacks. For your information I live in Indonesia and the wall outlet have 220 volts with amperage of ~20 amperes So I have some questions which are: Q1. Which power supply design is more ideal in terms of safety and efficiency? And how can I improve? Q2. For power supply design 2, I believe I might need some "system" for timing the charge and discharge of the bank,what circuit or system should I use/ make? How about using relay? Or spark gap? Q3. What should I do to avoid explosion of capacitor in both power supply Q4. What components are recommended for the charging power supply and what diodes are recommended for the design one capacitor bank? I already have the thick wires necessary for this since i know both systems deliver huge amount of power. And please inform me if there is any mistake or anything wrong. Any input is very greatly appreciated, you don't meed to answer all question since i know is a lot and i don't want to waste anyone's precious time. Thank you so much for your time.
Asked by dikap123 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Ah, voltage regulators. Easy Right! Not this one. I am making a voltage regulator like for an automobile regulator for a DC generator. (I'm replacing the old DC generator regulator on Pre 60's cars) A battery is charged from a winding on a Generator (20V @ 60 Amps) A voltage sensor on the battery voltage turns on and off a switch driving the Field winding. The Field winding basically "turns on and off" the generator output. The battery is connected directly to the generator. (Why and Why not is coming up) But when the Genrator's output is lower than the Battery voltage, current will flow back from the battery to the generator winding and discharge the Battery. So I need some isolation between the generator output and the battery. Alternators are easy since it has a bridge onthe output keeping the current from flowing backwards. Old regulators used a relay which burned out sooner or later. So easy, use a diode right? Just put a diode inseries with the generator to the batery. By the way, the "open circuit" voltage on a generator is about 200VDC No! The best diode I can find has a .7V drop at 60 Amps which is 42 Watts of heat to dissipate. Ahhh, so use a FET, They can get down into the milliOhms right? Except for the reverse polarity (and ESD) protecton diode always across the FETs defeat the purpose of a reverse polarity switch. So who out there is smarter than me? What goes inthe box marked ?? Any solutions accepted. Ungefahrt (now neither young or fast)
Asked by ungefahrt 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
On Aug 26 I posted an ask about a design of a new type of motor. I received some good advices. Redesigned 02/10/12 The previous design had a major flaw, that went unnoticed at first but it became clear as I went into the construction of the prototype: the thermal barrier would be totally useless, because the steam produced in the boiler necessarily have to go through liquid water to make its way into the compression chamber. This would have two disabling consequences: 1) the vapor would cool quickly, 2) the water would heat up quickly, too. Since any heat engine operation is based on temperature differences, this failure is vital. The new design does not have that problem. The water falls directly into the hot boiler, a small amount at a time, with the piston in the upper dead point, or below (note that my drawing is reversed with respect to what would be a conventional combustion engine). The water is kept cold by being stored in a separate reservoir, attached to the motor body only by the inlet and outlet pipes. Water injection is performed by momentarily opening a valve at the appropriate time. Since the interior of the water reservoir accumulates pressure as the engine works, this pressure would be in principle the responsible to force the output water through the tap. If that's not enough, I could add a little manual compression pump to initially load the reservoir with compressed air. So once the Primus heaters worked, which were extremely useful for decades. The exact moment, quantity and duration of water injection should be adjustable during operation of the engine, to find the optimum point for these parameters. These mechanisms have not thought of yet, but they can not be too complicated. As regards the boiler, it is likely that one heated surface be insufficient to rapidly vaporize the water, since in these conditions it usually adopt a globular shape that greatly retards heat transfer (Leidenfrost effect, http://resnickscity.wordpress .com/2011/01/page/3 /, http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Efecto_Leidenfrost, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leidenfrost_effect). I think that could be solved relatively easily by a double bottom to the boiler, in order to "force" the water into laminar contact with the hot surface. If this is insufficient, it would still be possible to inject the water by pressure between two heated surfaces. I have to also investigate the possibility of to make "super hydrophilic" the surface of the boiler. Regarding the compression chamber, this design makes it much longer, thus establishing a better differentiation between the bottom hot and top cold. But the main novelty is that the displacer stops acting on a small amount of water to turn acting, as in the Stirling engine, on the entire volume of the steam in the compression chamber. By forcing the steam to move towards the cold zone it produces its condensation, thereby changing the pressure by decompression, and so completing the cycle of the engine. The condensation water adheres to the cold walls of the chamber, then it slides down by gravity, and is intercepted midway by the retaining ring, which leads it back to the water reservoir through a single action valve, spring driven. I guess that to pass the water to the reservoir will be enough the vapor pressure that occurs in each cycle. The accompanying drawings are quite precarious, but only pretend to give a general idea of the design. Please ask me if you want more details ------------------------------------------------------------------- Nuevo diseño 02/10/12 El diseño anterior tenía una falla importante, que me pasó desapercibida al principio pero se hizo evidente a medida que avanzaba en la construcción del prototipo: la barrera térmica iba a resultar totalmente inútil, dado que el vapor producido dentro de la calderita tendría que atravesar forzosamente el agua líquida para abrirse camino hacia la cámara de compresión. Esto tendría dos consecuencias inhabilitantes: 1) el vapor se enfriaría rápidamente; 2) el agua se calentaría también rápidamente. Dado que el funcionamiento de cualquier máquina térmica se basa en las diferencias de temperatura, esta falla resultaba vital. El nuevo diseño no tiene ese problema. El agua cae directamente dentro de la caldera caliente, una pequeña cantidad por vez, estando el pistón en el punto muerto superior, o sea abajo (ojo, que mi dibujo está al revés respecto de lo que sería el de un motor a explosión convencional). El agua se mantiene fría, por estar guardada en un reservorio separado del motor, unido a él solo por los caños de entrada y salida. La inyección de agua se realiza mediante la apertura momentánea de un grifo en el momento oportuno. Dado que el interior del reservorio de agua acumula presión al funcionar el motor, esta presión sería en principio la encargada de impulsar la salida del agua a través del grifo. Si esto no fuera suficiente, habría que agregar una pequeña bomba manual de compresión para cargar inicialmente de aire comprimido el reservorio. Así funcionaban antiguamente los calentadores Primus, que fueron sumamente útiles durante décadas. El momento exacto, la cantidad y la duración de la inyección de agua deben ser regulables durante el funcionamiento del motor, para hallar el punto óptimo de esos parámetros. Esos mecanismos no lo he pensado todavía, pero no pueden ser demasiado complicados. Respecto de la caldera, es muy probable que una sola superficie recalentada sea insuficiente para vaporizar rápidamente el agua, dado que en esas condiciones esta suele adoptar una forma globular que retarda mucho la transferencia de calor (efecto Leidenfrost, http://resnickscity.wordpress.com/2011/01/page/3/, http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Efecto_Leidenfrost, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leidenfrost_effect). Creo que eso podría solucionarse con relativa facilidad haciendo un doble fondo a la caldera, de manera de "obligar" al agua a establecer contacto laminar con la superficie caliente. Si esto fuera insuficiente, siempre quedaría la posibilidad de inyectar el agua a presión entre ambas superficies recalentadas. Tengo que investigar también la posibilidad de hacer "súper hidrófila" la superficie de la caldera. Respecto a la cámara de compresión, este diseño la hace mucho más larga, estableciendo así una mejor diferenciación entre la zona inferior, caliente, y la superior, fría. Pero la principal novedad es que el desplazador deja de actuar sobre una pequeña cantidad de agua para pasar a hacerlo, como en el motor de Stirling, sobre el volumen completo del vapor contenido en la cámara de compresión. Al obligar a este a desplazarse hacia la zona fría produce su condensación, cambiando así la presión por descompresión, y completando así el ciclo del motor. El agua de condensación se adhiere a las paredes frías de la cámara, resbala luego por gravedad hacia abajo, y es interceptada a mitad de camino por el anillo de retención, que la conduce nuevamente hacia el reservorio de agua a través de una válvula de simple acción, a resorte. Supongo que para hacer pasar el agua al reservorio será suficiente con la presión de vapor que se produce en cada ciclo. Los dibujos adjuntos son algo precarios, pero no pretenden más que dar una idea general del diseño. Por favor, pregúntenme si quieren más detalles.
Asked by rimar2000 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Can anyone please provide a link which speaks about this...for a beginner thank you in advance
Asked by sandiri 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
There are lots of innovative Knex guns out there. But how did you come up with the idea? Please share your story and methods! -Did you try endlessly to make something work or purely by accident did you come up with a great idea? -Do you draw diagrams or sketches before design, or do you just rip out your tub and start building Knex ? -Any particularly interesting stories behind a gun design? Please share!
Posted by crestind 11 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
In this project you are required to design a 4 digits combination lock (not using arduino) The project is such that it can be reconfigurable i.e. there should be an option that we can change the password of the lock at run time. Input to the system is from the hex keypad. Output of the system is ‘open’ and ‘close’ words displayed on a seven segment I used registers,flip flops, mux ,comparator but couldn't get the desired result
Asked by r_sammad 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Hi All New here and hope you can help me out. I am a biker in south africa and would like to put together an aditional brake light that flashed 4 times then go solid. Microcontroller will most likely be the easiest and have design one as follows. (the coding has been done) LED's to be used is 20mA at 2.2V My concern is that for the amount of LED"S (100) i want to use 1amp is not enough and therefore i am using a LM7810 to drop the voltage from 12V to 5V with a cap to increase the 1A output to 5A I wish to wire the LED's in parralel si if one pop's then it wont affect the rest of the LED's. Must i therefore still wire a resistor in front of every LED? (180ohm?) or can i wire in this LED before the LED matrix to give it a 2.2-2.3V throughout the LED matrix? Here is my design : http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg156/HannesNel/design_zps52f754cf.png 2nd EDIT : How about this? reworked the design a bit? Then i drop the 12v down to 2.5V needed for the LED's and no resistors needed? I also opped for the LM350 due to the higher amps it can handle http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg156/HannesNel/Untitled_zpsc9900901.png 3rd update: Now using super bright LED's with a rating of 2V and therfore will use row of 6 in series to give 12V...still need resistors when connecting the 6 banks of 6 LED each in parralel? http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg156/HannesNel/Untitled_zps684a2209.png
Asked by HannesN 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Hey there guys... In my physics class we have a project in which we have to make a gravity-powered vehicle that will carry a given load along a track. The vehicle can only be powered by gravity (weights) and cannot use any other energy source such as elastics, springs, explosives, etc. I have started to make a K'nex vehicle but it is not very sturdy. The following is a picture of the rules and specifications. Much help is appreciated. ThanksFullsize Images: Front PageBack Page
Posted by RaDiKaL 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Hello again dear friends. Today I'm looking for help among the carpenters and metalworkers of the community. I need to build a new computer desk because I need a lower, wider, and longer work surface. I opted for a minimalist and modern design that I've included in the pictures below. I'm going to have local craftspeople make the wood board and steel frame, but I don't trust their expertise very much - so I would like to ask for your help regarding a few issues. Regarding woodwork: - I've understood that I should not put a beam across the boards for strength - I read online that this will induce splitting due to shrinkage. Is this correct? - Is 4cm (1" 9/16) board thickness enough to support weight (heavy monitors) considering the large span between the table legs? (see picture of underside) - The 4 boards used would be teak wood or Ecuador laurel (Cordia alliodora), full length x 7 inches wide Regarding metal work: - I'd like for the table to look as minimalist as possible, but I still feel I need a way to strengthen or stiffen the frame so it doesn't wobble side to side. Is there a way to do this without visually changing the table? I'm planning on using 1" x 2" square galvanized tube. - I've implemented a crossbeam to help prevent sagging of the board. Is one enough? It's offset so as not to reduce leg space. Any help you can provide will be much appreciated! André
Posted by colorex 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
What do you think about this greenhouse design? It is for an aquaponics system. 192 sq ft so no permit is required in many areas. 9ft tall by 16ft wide, vaulted dome with center support for strong snow holding ability (snow should mostly slide off the vaulted dome anyway). Do you think people would want this in their yard if I offered to sell it to them?
Posted by Jaycub 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Well, I am planning to build a solid state tesla coil. I've already build a spark gap one, but the amount of control over the output offered by sstcs looks more enticing. I have been looking at many different designs, but I think I want to go with a design based off of Richie Burnett's sstc. http://www.richieburnett.co.uk/sstc01.gif http://www.richieburnett.co.uk/sstc02.gif Those are the schematcs. The first problem I'm running into is that he is running off UK mains, which are double the voltage from the US mains. Will the output of the tesla coil still be good if I am switching ~120v through the primary as opposed to the ~240v in the drawing? Would this mosfet (https://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/product.do?id=MTW32N20EG) work in the power stage, or should i get a higher voltage/lower current mosfet? I also need a substitute for the mosfet in the logic stage. Does it even need to be a mosfet? Could I replace it with a transistor? The regulation circuit also worries me. Doesn't a linear regulator need to be fed a voltage of at least 2 volts higher than the output in order to function correctly? I just realized how many questions I really had about it. Wow. EDIT: I uploaded the pics for the sstc. The first two are the ones that I linked to, the third is Steve Ward's mini sstc. I was deciding between which one to use, but chose Richie's because Steve's has so many ICs and seems to be over-complicated.
Asked by duct tape 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Some exciting news for electronics designers --Jameco Electronics is introducing Club Jameco at this weekend’s Maker Faire in San Mateo, a new program where electronics designers can earn cash for their electronics designs. It starts with a Project Brief where designers describe the electronics project they want to design. Once approved, the Project Design phase begins where designers identify the components and write step-by-step instructions. That’s it. Jameco does the rest at no risk or cost to the designer. Jameco will source the components, build out the kit, promote the kit and sell it. The kit’s designer earns a royalty on every sale. Who's ready to make some money? Learn more at www.ClubJameco.com
Posted by stoib 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum. So, I'd like to introduce myself. I design cut ready DXF files for CNC cutting systems. The site is http://freedxf.com/shop/motorsport-16/. My business is dedicated to offering high quality design work for CNC cutting systems. Our designs are high quality, polyline DXF files optimized for CNC cutting. We offer our services to over 12,000 CNC service providers around the world. And, by the way, I do have some designs I was hoping to share with you all. Is there a particular area where I should post my designs?
Posted by designshop 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I need some help in understanding the science behind aqua propeller designs. For example what is the difference between modern outboard motor propeller vs. what they used in steam boats. To me the steam boat design looks pretty good. After all it displaces more water. I would appreciate the help.
Asked by kabira 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I designed this PCB in Diptrace and now i am going to etch it at home. This is my first PCB design. Can someone please tell me if this is a good and practical design? This is a design of a water level indicator based on a single NOT gate IC (HEF 4049). UPDATE: I redid the layout. Increased the trace width and attached the power to the IC. Please tell me if this is ok? Also please tell me is it must to have a power plane? UPDATE: 1) i went back to original layout and beefed up the tracks 2) Made the IC pads bigger. 3) Was able to reconfigure the layout to connect power without jumpers (this took up most of the time). 4) Did as Verence suggested and put text on the copper layer. Version number, date and name. 5) And finally added the positive for the supply voltage. UPDATE: Moved track from pin 7 of IC away from pin 8.
Asked by Shariq92 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I am planning to build a capacitve discharge welder so that I can tab weld my battery packs, and I have no intention of paying 2K plus. I recently came across a fairly simple design, and was using it to design my own. If anyone that has built one of these, or knows how to, can look at this design in detail, and inform me if I have the right componants, and in the right order, it would be greatly appreciated *** Please, I know the dangers and risks to what I plan on building so please do not express your concerns here. Everything has risks, but without risks their can be no reward.*** UPDATE I added a new diagrahm with the opto-iso and relay that you two recommended, not sure if its right yet, but its a work in progress
Asked by supramp 7 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
I have long dreamed of building a capstan table for my home like DB Fletcher's beautiful designs (google it if you aren't familiar). I have researched various jupe tables and similar expanding round tables with none that satisfied me - either they were designs I was afraid to try and recreate then build, or the product was not what I wanted for my home.But I now have found a very satisfactory compromise; something I feel is possible for me to design and build myself, and which would look great in my home.I just don't have enough time in the day to do all of my projects... so I am hoping to find some collaborators here who will contribute time to help me design a knock-off of this table. Here's a link to an swf demonstration of the table in action... http://ashleighengineeringservices.co.uk/sei/s/3786/fe2146247.swfSo... who wants to help me out?
Posted by karossii 9 years ago | last reply 6 months ago
Hello Makers! I have been designing a home theater retractable screen housing that is arduino based. I want to use stepper motors for the added precision and will be playing with some minor resin/fiberoptics to decorate the front in a movie theater-esq manner. My concern is with the stepper motors. I would love to know if anyone has attempted a similar project. The speed of the descent/retraction is not all that important but consistency is another story. I also have some power concerns. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Posted by jab06y 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hello all, could anyone give me some insight to how complex the process of designing a very small GPS tracker which could be used to track lets say a person, which can post its co-ords to map software which is custom programmed etc in realtime. Hypothetical scenario: 1) Tracking someone who is on the move outdoors, only has very small pockets to fit the thing in. 2) The device must send co-ords to mapping software on a computer every 10 seconds maybe. 3) Someone can view there position on the map software in instantly to understand their exact position. Also how expensive would the whole process cost to manufacturer roughly? Thanks in advance and sorry for the vagueness in my question
Posted by tullybear 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hello everybody! I'm in the process of building a reiteration of a series of optical toys (like this one, or these) with motor, stroboscopes and little music system. The thing is their discs measure about 1 m (like 3,2 feets) and one of them (praxinoscope) is a heavy one due to the mirrors it possess (see photo [it isn't it's actual state]) so I created a metal base for it with a tube, three metal angles as legs and washing machine 115v ~60hz 70W 250VAC single phase motor soldered on (with capacitor), so the disc sits on top of the motor, and the thing is that after an hour of so of being tested on continuous duty it stopped and started to smell like burnt. What could the problem be? Could it be a design problem since the motor has all that weight on top? Should I have used gears and pulleys? How can I make it last longer without it being to complex? If someone can help or has some ideas I'd appreciate it , thanks in advance! Benkos M. G.
Posted by BenkosM 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Hi guys. I've been making some very simple mechanisms for a steampunk Instructables series I've got planned, and have been prototyping using cardboard and paper. This has actually worked really well, but I'm a fan of the digital realm, too, and was wondering if anyone could recommend some simple, cheap (ideally freeware) digital prototyping software to help me eliminate (or minimize) the paper and card phase? As I say, the mechanics are very simple. Cams, pulleys, levers, gears -- nothing more complex than bell cranks, linkages and basic drives. I think a scotch yoke is about as adventurous as it's got so far. So I'm looking for some nice simple software that'll allow me to build and test the mechanisms digitally, if such a thing exists. I've looked at the likes of Autodesk and Blender, but they seem like a sledgehammer to cure a headache. Even something that runs online in a browser, or an iPhone/iPad app would be good (I've played some physics-based games on the iPad that would almost be ideal if they weren't puzzle games!). Any advice? Cheers guys!
Posted by SpannerSpencer 7 years ago | last reply 5 years ago