If I etch a pyrex dish, can I use it in the oven afterwards? Thank you .
Asked by sexymom04 2 years ago
I want to use press-n-peel thati use with the PCB's I make, to etch small detailed parts for model making, out of brass. What would be the proper ratio to mix Muratic acid with h2o2 so it will not eat away the mask material. I cover the back of the brass sheet with electrical tape, to protect the other side
I made an instructables about salt and water etching https://www.instructables.com/id/SALT-AND-WATER-E...as I learned it in a jewelry class, so I never tough about been unsafe. I posted it as I tough it was a nice one to share, but I'm having some comment on how it should not be safe using stainless steel in this project. As I don't have absolute knowledge about this before, and I just report what I learned, I was wondering if that was correct or not. (I know sometimes people comment very random stuff). Anybody know something about this topic?
Posted by marcellahella 2 months ago
He mentions using a laser printer for copper etching, can I use my ink jet printer and get the same results?
Hi, Does anyone know of a way to imprint my name in ordinary plastic objects so I can identify them with my name and phone number? I have a metal etching kit, but I can't seem to find anything similar with plastic. I know that I can scribe it by hand with a dremel, but I want something more regular and 'pro' looking than that. Thanks, Blake
Posted by blakeinla 7 years ago
I found this website for the etch-o-matic and thought how cool. I also thought that this has to be something really really easy to make myself if I knew a little more about it. So I'm wondering if anyone knows how to build one of these or if there is already an instructable that for this that I just couldn't find, or if someone knows of another source for further info. If anyone even just knows the generic term for this process that would be a help.I'm also wondering about the stencil http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjYio1YZuCA, is there another, more generic product out there that does the same thing? The development is no problem because I have an old blueprint machine that will do that part nicely. thanks a millionC
Posted by astro347 9 years ago
I am doing an engraving/etching for a gift and I want the lines and spaces to stand out from the metal in a more visual way. Please keep in mind that whatever material I use has to be able to stand up to standard pocket wear. I considered using a spray paint or enamel but I am not sure how well those would stand up to the pocket environment. Certain types of ink seem like they might be good until something wet touched it, but then would be a problem. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Posted by finfan7 9 years ago
Hi all, I have a DIY boombox project made from a train case where I need a badge made to cover up a "mistake". I can provide an Adobe Illustrator, EPS, DWG, or DXF for the logo and shape of the badge. The finished piece will be 3.25" wide by 1.5" tall. As much as I'd like to do this on my own, I'm not keen on working with acid and don't have the time or work to build my own CNC or laser cutter. I will be happy to pay for time and materials as long as it's reasonable. Also, I'm in Northeast Ohio, if that matters to anyone. Thanks!
Posted by mnmitch57 6 years ago
I want to learn how to etch my own circuit boards but I'm not sure what to use for marking the traces. I've heard about using a sharpie maker, which sounds pretty easy, but does it really work? To me it seems like it would come off from the acid.
Asked by Arya42 4 years ago
We're offering a 20% discount on our regular prices to all UK Instructable Pro members who need laser cutting or etching of acrylics, leather or wood. For some examples of our recent work see. https://www.instructables.com/id/Jayefuus-Blog-Roundup-August/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Negative-Laser-Metal-Etching/ https://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1Y/55SO/GB3W26ZY/F1Y55SOGB3W26ZY.MEDIUM.jpg Our pricing is based on 50 GBP/hour machine time. Etching is considerably slower than cutting.... Contact me via PM for details and a quote. Steve
Posted by steveastrouk 7 years ago
Howdy is there a kind of resist that can be left on the pcb after etching (except the solder points), as an electrical insulator? can it be used with the photo-etching method, or only heat? thanks
Posted by johnyradio 6 years ago
Ive read alot about etching ur own PCB's and might start on it sooner or later, but i wanted to know, can u just trow away used solution down the drain. i wondered about this since it eats away copper, and some pipelines are made out of copper... and isnt it to chemical to trow away (like batteries and other electronics) normally...
Asked by godofal 8 years ago
I've been searching and reading on how to etch aluminum. I've tried the photo paper toner transfer numerous times, but the toner does not stick to my aluminum plate. I've gone over with my iron so many times while putting extreme amounts of pressure on it, but no matter what I cannot get the toner to stay on my aluminum plate. Can someone please help me, or let me know a better way of doing this!! Thank you!
Asked by Tanman23 8 years ago
Hi everybody, I just tried the Galvanic Etching process described on Jake Von Slatt's website. I wanted to show off my results and offer my observations.RESULTS:1) The etch came out perfectly.. even details that looked WAY to fine to pick up came out clearly.2) The Inkjet Paper (Staples Photo Plus Gloss) took a bit of soaking to get off, but when I got a corner, It came off as one single layer.3) I had to re-iron the corners, so check those before soaking.OBSERVATIONS:1) a PC power supply worked fine for the etch.2) my Root Killer lists Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate... no noticeable issue with this versus plain copper sulfate3) Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate eats alumin(i)um... Using tin foil as the anode was a bad idea.. I went through three anodes over the course of the etch... next time I'll use copper.4) Electrical tape makes a great mask to cover the back and edges of your etch.5) Mr Clean Magic Eraser's make short work of the toner without marring the brass.and now.... the Picture. (this is before paint, polish & varnish, I haven't gotten to those parts yet)
Posted by gschoppe 10 years ago
I want to put together an electroetching rig (as detailed here), and I already have a battery charger, but I need to make the controller (diagram attached). My question is: Is there a better solution for the circuit than having an 12 volt halogen lamp wired in? That just seems really clunky to me, and my gut tells me there's a better solution that is not "go buy a laboratory power supply". I have nothing against old-school, but this looks positively prehistoric. Anybody?
Asked by RavingMadStudios 8 years ago
I have been looking around Google and found a few possible places to buy from but i wanted to ask the pros that make them all the time. can i buy a kit or do i have to get it all individually? Nvmd i found one :D but will still take supply suggestions
Asked by demonxkid 7 years ago
I built a power supply using a 25.2 volt 2 amp transformer to use for etching projects. It worked on my test plate but then started blowing the 1 amp fuses I was using with it. I switched to 2 amp fuses and it works but my transformer is getting too hot. I have experimented with different amounts of solvent and different size plates, which definitely makes a difference, though my 1 amp fuses are at most lasting about 10 seconds. I have read about building a control box with a halogen light and a variable resistor to control the amperage, but would it allow me to take some of the load off of the transformer? And if it would work, how would I connect it to my power supply?
Asked by Nordovita 5 years ago
Hey guys, Im starting to build a 2 axis CNC for a laser. I was going to try the DVD burner laser and just cut through some paper for now but im wondering what the capabilities of the higher wattage lasers are. I know there are several 1-2+ watt lasers on ebay, what could they mange to cut through? Could I cleanly cut cardboard? What about vinyl for making stuff like decals and stickers? Im wondering if spending the extra money on a better laser would be beneficial or not so if anyone has some good comparisons or ideas let me know. Im on a tight budget for this build so a co2 laser is WAY out of the question. This is my first CNC build so its mainly to learn but the more capabilities of the CNC the better.
Posted by jdavis-9 5 years ago
Our company is moulds making company we are trying to make chemical etching
Asked by design-centre 3 years ago
How deep can one etch brass (using the toner transfar method, like when making PCB's) before the acid will dissolve the brass under the toner? Like at the point it will dissolve the brass by going around the toner and coming up from underneith?
Asked by guyfrom7up 8 years ago
I have wanted to etch my own PCBs but didn't have the money. Now I have got a little bit of money and wonderd where the cheapest place was to get etching materails in New Zealand (preferabially in christchurch). Can anyone help?
Asked by David97 6 years ago
Yes i know there has been a question about this already... but im asking it again. Can you etch a pcb with bleach? I dont really want to go out and find ferric chloride or hydrochloric (muratic) acid :) I just wanted to know if this would work. Also pros and cons would be good too, if not possible i can find a place with the right chemicals.. :) Thanks!
Asked by astroboy907 8 years ago
I own an iPod Shuffle, 2nd generation, silver. It is very plain, and I've recently been reading up on saltwater etching. I want to remove the standard Apple logo from the back and etch my own text (it will either be "iMake" or "iBles", I can't decide). I've come upon two roadblocks, so far, those being: can I sand laser etchings (the Apple Logo) off, and can I etch through the player's anodization, or would I need to sand that off? I don't really care if it doesn't turn out perfect, or looks like a total mess. It's not like I paid for the thing. Thanks for any help!
Posted by Bran 10 years ago
I would prefer to avoid acid if at all possible.
Asked by Shadow94 8 years ago
I am currently trying to find a solution to a year and a half long problem I've been working at, and was hoping the community could help me out. I ma trying to create miniature armatures that will always have the right proportions by etching the 'skeleton' out of thin brass (I believe it's somewhere around .02 inches thick). I've tried toner transfer and ferric chloride etching, but I am not getting steady results with the toner transfer. Since this isn't a circuit board, are there any other techniques I can use to cut through the metal quickly? If it's something along the lines of a CnC machine, as long as I can make it to cut down on the costs, I'm open to the idea. Just to give you an idea of what I'm trying now, at the moment I'm making stencils that I will spray acrylic or spray paint through onto the metal to allow for the same design every time. Acrylic and spray paint are also resistant to ferric chloride. Thanks
Asked by ajpaulette 8 years ago
Hi! I plan on some experiments with a modified method i saw here for PCB-plating with copper to make the holes conductive. Now the question: What if my metal is not 100% pure but has some impurities in it? Does it still only "transfer" the copper and leaves the impurities as slag behind? I think it should be this way, since a similar approach gets used in refining metals to a very high purity; but i am unsure... Lets say i do: Follow the basic recipe (with smaller ammounts!) @ http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volumes/voliii/consumbl/cplatmix.htm and use copper sulfide. I think the trick now is that only copper-ions get disolved in the copper sulfide and nothing else. Those ions become plated to the other pole and thus i get purest copper plated to it?
Posted by Orngrimm 5 years ago
Hey Everyone, Recently I have been looking at different C02 laser manufacturers to see if there was anything that was affordable but still of professional quality, and I stumbled accross Full Spectrum Lasers. I am wondering if anyone on the site has any experience with their products and their customer service. The reason I am asking is because their prices almost seem too low; comparable Epilog lasers seem to cost at least twice as much. I know that Epilog is probably one of the biggest names in the industry and have apparently been around the longest, but I don't see how that alone could cause such a price difference. So basically, if any of you have had good or bad experiences with Full Spectrum your knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Nathanael Scheffler
Posted by NathanaelScheffler 4 years ago
But without using a laser etching machine? I've seen chemical etching into brass using chemicals that produces a detailed effect, but I want that on a see-through surface. I'm not good at free-hand painting, so using Armour Etch without a stencil/mask is essentially out of the question. Also, would Armour Etch work on plexiglass, even though it is a different material than regular glass (SiO2)? Thanks alot!
Asked by SJBarag 9 years ago
Hey y'all, I have another question related to etching my iPod. I took it apart, and now have the aluminum housing with a piece of rubber (latex?) connected to it (the buttons). Do y'all think that the saltwater or current would have any negative effects on it? Thanks!
Posted by Bran 10 years ago
I bought one of ladyada's USBtinyisp avr programmers a few days ago, its working great! i program alot in visual basic but i never tried anything quite like the C similar programming of the avr chips. because of that i reprogram my chip ALOT, so i decided to make a target board. i already have the "blank" board and a UV lamp to prepare it. i have sodium hydroxide to develop it. all i need is something to etch off the copper. so i was wondering: can i etch off the copper with 32% hydrochloric acid/muratic acid/HCL?
Asked by solidacid 9 years ago
Hey everyone! I'm in the process of etching my first PCB. I have a few questions. I'm using the toner transfer method, with hydrochloric acid and a little hydrogen peroxide as an etchant. Anyway, I transferred the toner to the board, but I believe the glossy paper I used may have been a little too thick. The toner transferred correctly, but i can manage to get all of the paper off. I've tried a tooth brush and a soft towel. My question is, if I just go forth and etch the board will the paper dissolve with the copper on the board and give me a clean result anyway? Will the copper covered by the paper not be removed? are there any cons to this? (such as not being able to reuse my etchant) Thank you all, your help is appreciated Ken
Posted by KennyW2 3 years ago
I need to bulid a PCB but dont have time to buy equipment also it is going to be a one off build so I also dont want to buy anything expensave. I have strip board but getting what I want to make small is very hard. Is there a way to build pcbs with household items?
Asked by David97 6 years ago
Here's an idea - would it be possible to use a 3D printer to lay out the etch resist on a PCB? It would likely only need to print a single layer. Of course you'd need to use a material that would resist the ferric chloride but could also be removed without leaving a residue. Thoughts???
Posted by jeff-o 6 years ago
So, this really isn't whether or not I should post an iBle, but rather how many of you are interested in it. I'm using the saltwater etch tutorials here and am going to etch my iPod shuffle (2nd generation). The etch will say "iMake" and if all goes right, I should begin to etch sometime today or tomorrow. So, I'll try to take quality pictures and all, and if anyone happens to have any tips for me, they would be appreciated! ;-) Thanks!
Posted by Bran 10 years ago
I'm working on a project to remove the broken plastic around my laptops screen section and replace it with two peices of plexiglass (Both front and back of the screen). with this i have a broken USB port that i can run power lines to two RED Leds to allow to light up an Etch on the plexiglass. but i really want to mask a small square in the middle then paint he plexiglass black then etch in my logo. but i'm wondering if this is the best way to do it? any suggestions??
Asked by Gomex19 5 years ago