Fibreglassing a spray deflector extension onto an acrylic boat windscreen?

I want to add some height to the top of my old boat windscreen which will (hopefully) deflect a lot of seaspray & keep my crew drier & happier. The plan is to make the extension out of ply & cover it in fibreglass, overlapping the glass onto the top of existing screen & then painting the lot. I will also fit strengthening points to the ply to take the stress off of the windscreen. Could someone please tell me the best way to prep the old screen ready to apply the glass? Also after I am done with glassing, what would be a good paint type to apply to these surfaces please? Thanks,

Asked by Norwesta 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Which adhesive to use for fibreglass? Answered

I want to glue hard plastic brackets to the inside of a fibreglass pond. Contact area will be around 18" x 2". They will be continuously underwater. Is Araldite the best glue to use for this or is there something better?

Asked by AndyGadget 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


will plasicine stick to fibreglass resin?

Im having a hard time getting some normal grey clay to make rock climing hold moulds and was thinking if i could use plasticine instead?

Asked by padz 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


how do i build a fibreglass skateboard

 Hi im new here How do i build a fibreglass skateboard, im puzzled because they are just one peice. Are they injection moulded, or made in 2 halves and glued together, i understand you can place some plywood in the core to stiffen it. Also how is it coloured, if i want to make a blue one, is the first layer of fibreglass blue, or is it painted with an airbrush on completion, what sort of paint would be used and tough enough Many Thank - K

Posted by kc6666 8 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Advice needed! how transfer designs to fibreglass sculpture

Hi I have a design submission to decorate/paint a 3 foot high fibreglass Rabbit! I want to create a pattern similiar to a wallpaper flock pattern but I don't really want  to do it all by hand. I thought I could design my pattern and create a decal, transfer, (acrylic image transfer is something I am hearing and reading about) and apply it to the rabbit. Any tips or suggestions would be great. P

Posted by aluapartx 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


im looking to make a kayak paddle out of fibreglass type materials but dont have a clue how id make the mould?

Im hoping to try and copy or even make a good designed double bladed kayak paddle out of fibreglass kevlar or some type of composite. id probhably make it in 3 parts being the two blades and the shaft. iv never used it before so any ideas will be great. thanks. pad.

Asked by padz 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


IDEAS... How to make a 4m diameter hallow sphere ??

Hello all this is my first post on Instructables so thanks for taking the time to read ! I am looking for ideas on how i could manufacture a perfect, hallow, fibreglass sphere measuring around 4 metres in diameter (BIG) :) I have experience with using fibreglass but I am running out of ideas for how to make a plug on this scale and get it to be perfectly spherical... It has to be made from Fibreglass so i am really asking for help on making the mould. ANY help or suggestions would be gratefully received no matter how wacky ....I am willing to try anything. If your idea works I will be more than happy to name the first of these epic spheres after you !! All the best  Ben

Posted by whitto2017 1 year ago  |  last reply 1 year ago


Extra Attic Insulation. Can I add polystyrene panels over existing fibreglass batts?

I have access to 6in thick polystyrene panels which I would prefer to re-use rather than take to the garbage dump. Can I lay them over existing fibreglass batts to increase the insulation in the attic ? The house is 4 yrs old so is up to code and is located in Ontario, Canada where the winters are cold. I'm worried about causing a moisture problem.

Asked by Blakie2 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Firesleeve(Silicone Coated Fibreglass Sleeve)http://www.hsinsulation.com?

Firesleeve(Silicone Coated Fibreglass Sleeve) 1)Silicone rubber coated fiberglass sleeve(sleeving) - Protects hoses, cables and wires. from molten metal splash, high heat hazards and occasional exposure to flame, in steel plants, glass plants, foundries, cutting and welding shops and wherever hoses, cables and wires may be exposed to high heat or occasional flame. Fireproof sleeve also may be used to insulate your race cars plumbing system. 2)Continuous protection to 500F, short term exposure thru 2200F Extremely flexible and conformable through out entire size range at temperatures -65F thru 500F. 3)Impede heat radiation of flame 4)Protect operator from burning by hot pipe 5)Impede heat lost and favor to saving energy 6)Moisture-proof, water-proof, resistance to oil and pollution 7)Color: red and blue mainly. 8)Bore diameter(mm):15,20,25,30,35,40,45,50,55,60,65,70,75,80,90,100,110,120,130;(Sizes from 1/4" I.D. to 6" I.D.) Yancheng Hengsheng Insulation Co.,Ltd Web: http://www.hsinsulation.com Email: hsinsulation@hotmail.com Tel :+86-139-61986280 Fax : +86-515-88430696

Asked by firesleeve 7 years ago


What should I use for crossbow limbs?

I'm thinking of making a small crossbow, but I'm not sure what to make to limbs out of. Right now I'm either thinking some sort of wood, not sure what type, or fibreglass. Any ideas?

Asked by DIWesser 7 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


alternatives to fiberglass

Hey guys im building an enclosed recumbent motorcycle and i am a bit stuck. im making the outer skin. to get a working aerodynamic shape, complex curves and all i want to use some flexible sheet which i can connect to the strong points of the motorcycle. i am thinking of using that polypropilene chicken wire, and i wonder if it would be good enough to be the base of the fairing and put fibreglass on top. my brother wants to use cedar strips as a base and cardboard strips mounted over them and fibreglass the resultant mess. then bondo the lot. any ideas. i am not describing this very well. a single sheet of a flexible matting will save me the trouble of making a mould of the fairing. thanks guys.

Posted by maninamousesuit 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


bayliner transom mod's ..how to build solid transom for my bayliner?

In need of some advice in heightening the transom to a solid surrounding,on the stern of my bayliner motorlaunch...angles..materials..step by step fitting to boat..construction..finishing..and things to consider..basically from start to finish..thanks for help.

Asked by winstonchurchill 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


How do i do a scaled down version of a car body in fibreglass, like full size down to 4-5 foot?

I want to make scaled down version of clasic cars to put onto a go-kart frame 5-10 hp motor looking the same as the road version?

Asked by clubby677 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Fibreglass resin catalyst - any easy thinners available?

I am in the need to make a quick decision before the weekend. A local shop is closing down and I was offer a massive amount of good quality resin for price that you could call stealing LOL Only problem is that there is no catalyst included as the owner realised the container had a leak the stuff was long gone. Buying the required amount of catalyst down here so I consider making my own. For obvious reasons I won't go into the details of making... Problem on my end is that the catalyst needs to be thinned down to 40-60% to prevent unwanted results handling and using it. All the commercial products use thinners based on very hard to obtain organic solvents. From what I could read they are added to prevent mis-use of the product, which means there might be other solvents that work for the thinning without affecting the resin or curing process in a negative way. Big question: What type of easy to obtain solvent can I use for this without compromising the resin or curing? And before anyone asks: No I won't tell you - if you don't know what I am talking about you don't need to ask on how to make it as I won't tell. And no again, I am not looking for ways to make the resin thinner - I need to dilute the pure catalyst to make it useable and safe. My sole intention is make a good deal but unless I find a suitable thinner I won't buy close to 300 liters of resin....

Asked by Downunder35m 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


How Would I Make a Firing Mechanism for a Catapult? Answered

So I am trying to do this instructable here >>https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Build-A-Catapult/ and the author doesn't seem to be answering questions anymore. I am wondering if  anyone else knows what to do with the firing mechanism if using fibreglass pipe. Because if a hook is screwed in it, it seems like it would probably break out of it under the strain. Anyone have any ideas what i could do for the firing mechanism? Thanks!

Asked by Tin.Man 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


fiberglass for resin forms VS fiberglass for thermal insulation?

I see woven or braided fiberglass (in tube, rope, sheet, band) for use as 1)  a seal where the seal is going to be exposed to high temperature (eg: stove door gasket); 2)  for use as a thermal guard (eg: tubing around electrical wire); 3)  and then used for it's' strength in resin impregnated sheet (egs: roof sheeting; mould making; boat building). My question is whether there's any difference between the fiberglass fabrics available for thermal and resinous uses? Are they interchangable? Fiberglass is fiberglass no?

Asked by balisticsquirel 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


Homemade Ferrite - what updates do you seek most?

First a massive thank you for the interest in my project - I certainly was expecting this great response! Some might already know my first tutorial on how to make your own ferrite, here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-your-own-Ferrite-to-improve-magnetic-fields/ As the muber of followers grow and so the hits on the linked video I was wondering what updates you would most interested in! I want to make some custom pot cores for small HF transformers in the 2-20kHz region. So the question is what new recipe you would like to see... There are several options, all would include some mould making first: Clay as a binder Ceramic as a binder Using some non-hygroscopic salts to melt into the ferrit powder as a binder - all three would require to finnish the parts in a good oven 2K glue or fibreglass resin as a simple dry mix 2K glue or fibreglass resin with vacuum curing to remove all air - this might require special glue as in my experiments resin and glue start boiling long before total vacuum is reached, was thinking of casting resin istead as this would be rated for vacuum preparation From past experiments these are the most likely candidates to result in a good product, if you have other ideas and suggestions post them here. Being a guy that loves to keep things simple and prefering the use of scrap / easy to obtain parts I would obviously love to know where you struggled with your creation of ferrite. I still did not find a good source for rare earth materials in fine powder form to add to the mix but don't think it is an issue as for high performance there are always commercial cores available. Some people asked my what the best was is to make a big toroid core for Rodin coils and other unuasally big cores for transformers. If you are one of them, leave your feedback here as well as the size is only an issue in terms of avoiding cracks during the curing. Let's get the party started! :)

Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


Recycle old spring horse into rocking horse....is bracing needed or what?

The childs weight and energy on a spring horse is spread out by the springs. I want to put wooden rockers on a spring horse and remove the springs etc. Would the horse collapse under the child ? How would I brace up the inside of the horse ? How would I attach the hollow plastic feet to the wooden rocker? I have cut off the mane and tail to put in a real horse mane and tail so I do have limited access to the inside of the horse. I have thought to line the inside with bondo /fibreglass and maybe fill the feet but I do not like that it is a not a green product and could off gas harmful components etc. Any suggestions would be appreciated. These spring horses were on the way to the dump so I was given them for free and wish to do something really neat with them. I have some glass elk eyes to insert and wish to make a leather saddle and bridle. Fun Times! Thanks for any help.

Asked by gerrits 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Washing machine door won't open - possible solutions!

If you have a front loader and found this then most likely you are currently unable to get your washing out of the machine.Welcome to the club!Here is what happened to me, skip this bit if you like:The washing finnished, I try to open the door but nothing.Ok, maybe some electrical bugger somewhere, so knock it a few times but still no go.Mind you that I am in AU now but a long time ago I took my European machine with me - not knowing there won't be any service down here.A quick search on my model and the problem informed me that either the electrical safety lock is faulty or the handle part is broken.The solution to open the door as suggested by the official support:Take the damn thing apart until you get the front off.Unscrew the lock from the inde and then investigate the actual problem.Well, lets just say I was not in the mood to dismantle the entire thing just to open the door, so here is how I did it:Part two: Options to open the door if the handle won't do the trick:Most front loaders are designed to make thing complicated when it comes to the door mechanism.It is considered a safety thing, so tempering from the outside shall be prevented.A faulty electrical lock is rare but I will try this a bit further down.Almost all front loaders use a hook like pin in the door.And once the power was off for a few minutes the safty lock will disengage - if not look further down this text ;)But since the cover is screwed on from the inside of the door you can't get easy access to this locking pin.In some cases you can be lucky and if you look from the side you can see it - if so then try something flat enough (but sturdy) to press it towards the center of the door.For me the problem was the cover really covered it all :(I used some strong, braided fishing line instead to pull on the hook pin.Take a lenght to go all around the door, push the line in where the handle is and guide it around the door.Take both ends together and pull - the door pops open.Be aware though that fishing line can cut into your fingers, so make a loop and a wooden handle or so instead of your fingers ;)Part three: The door is open - what now??Well, if you managed to open the door during part two already then your handle part is clearly broken somewhere.At the hinge should be two (or four) screws with heads that are different to the rest - if in doubt aim for those closest to the hinge.Remove them while supporting the door!Once the screw are out you should be able to get the door off with a bit of wiggling and different opening angles.If not put the screws back in and remove all others first to take the front cover off while you attempt to get the door off.The handle part isusually fixed with screws that hold the cover, so it should come out once all is seperated.With some luck you find a part number on it somewhere on the back, if not check your prefered supplier for a spare.Part four: To repair or to not repair?You might notice that with just the actual locking pin and its frame that screws into the door all would work fine.If really just the handle part is broken while the stronger part for the screws and actual pin is fine:Consider leaving the handle off until you get a spare.The door can be mounted without the actual handle but you need to take the framework apart.Once done you should only have a basic frame to screw into the door with the hook in it but the actual handle is gone.And without the handle you have easy access to the pin - you can even push it with your finger to open the door...But as said, in my case the frame for the door cover blocked this bit too much.For the first wash I used a popstickle stick as it was thin enough...If no spares are available anymore and repairing the broken plasic is not an option either:Part five: For the desperate - modified locking pin.I have seen people placing a bolt into the front of the machine and then literally screwing the door close.The safety was then just bridged of course...This however is not recommended and a bad idea anyway.Much better is to be creative and to use some spare metal or strong plastic like Delrin.Fibreglass re-inforced plastic like from an old sewer box is great too but a pain in terms of protective gear while cutting, drilling and sanding.Either way you should now see the resulting parts of your accident scene.And this of course only works if at least the frame for the pin itself is still intact.The mechnism in the original is a double lever - you pull the handle away from the door and the pin is "rotated" over its pin to move away from the lock.Take the actual locking pin out, trace its shape and on the drawing add a suitable "extension that you can press down (on the outside of the door).In the most basic form a simple straight lever going away from the machine at a 30° angle will do.Cut a cardboard sample to check if you really have enough free movement.If all is good create a copy in the right thickness and put it all back togehter without the broken handle.To open the machine you then just press the lever towards the machine and the door pops open.

Posted by Downunder35m 7 weeks ago