Tearout is an issue when running a router on plywood, but I tried something new. Instead of a conventional cut, I did a climb cut, and tearout was pretty minimal.
Posted by Toga_Dan 3 years ago | last reply 11 months ago
I am going to attempt to make an acoustic guitar and i need to bend the plywood into the bell shape and i wanted to know if i could soak it for like two days until it is soft. i know that u can do this with bamboo but i wasnt sure about normal plywood please help me and respond
Asked by fightingsquirell2 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
So far I have tried sanding it down and applying a poly based stain. But I still feel like it could be much smoother.
Asked by twin8885 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I have an idea for a stylized plywood coffee table that is all made from a single board of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood. I've attached a .jpg of a coffee table base-design to this email. The bends on either side are 4 inch radius bends. Although I have basically no experience bending plywood, I sincerely doubt 3/4 inch plywood is going to bend into right angles at a 4 inch radius. I may be wrong, but if it is possible, I do not know how to do it, and certainly do not have the equipment. I've seen on the internet very flexible sheets of plywood, but wouldn't that just get glued into position and then just collapse once un-molded? I can't believe that I am the only person who wants to do something like this. Any input?
Posted by Dolmetscher007 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Pete Hennessey of Melbourne, Australia has made a series of full-size plywood replicas of space-related items. Amazingly enough he modeled them in Illustrator and the whole process of making a model of Hubble took him three months to make. Yow! peter hennessey: my hubble via MAKE
Posted by fungus amungus 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I got a piece of finished one side plywood and decided to make a desk out of it. i cut a top ,bottom sides and spacers for drawers all out of the same piece of plywood. sanded the top down smooth. all the sides take the stain fine but the top will not. it wont penetrate the wood on top for some reason. can anyone provide some in site on why this is happening. or what i need to do to get the stain to work? thanks.
Asked by nagybro 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I am planning out my first Instructable. It will be a bent (kerfed) plywood coffee table, There have been a growing number of projects out in the 'makeosphere,' where people are cutting slits or kerfs that go almost completely through a thicker piece of wood, allowing it to be easily bent. I am on a super-tight budget, and cannot afford to ruin my $22 sheet of plywood, so I was hoping that someone might be able to help me with some measurements for cutting the kerf-slits in the plywood. Here is the idea all sketched out. I need help with the measurements that are in bold. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * PROJECT DESCRIPTION: Materials: 1x | 4 ft. x 2 ft. 3/4 in birch plywood 2x | 3 ft. 5/8 in threaded metal rods 8x | flat washers 4x | standard nuts 4x | "end nuts" Steps: On the sheet of plywood, measure in X inches and mark X number of cross cut lines, X inches apart. Measure in 2 inches from each end of the board and draw a line. Measure in 2 inches each each side of the board, and draw another line. Drill out a 5/8 inch hold at all 4 of these crossed lines. Thread a standard nut onto each end of the threaded rod and screw it on 1-2 inches roughly, then slip a flat washer over the threaded rod. Bend each end of the board up to create almost 90 degree angles. Insert each end of the threaded rod into the holes, slip a flat washer over the threaded rod and screw on each of the four "end nuts." Use the standard nuts, and the end nuts to fine tune the bends into 90 degree angles. Flip the table over, and enjoy. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Stability is more important to me than curve radius. I don't know if spacing cuts close together for a small curve radius is more or less stable than placing the cuts further apart for a larger radius. I've never done this, but I have seen that there is an equation for this. I haven't been able to find the equation actually expressed, I've just heard that there is one. Does anyone know about this area of woodworking/physics?
Posted by Dolmetscher007 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I need to do a medical procedure and I want to get it out of my bedroom. I salvaged some 3/4 inch plywood and need to find a way to securely attach the plywood temporarily for the procedure and then be able to quickly take apart and store for 2 days latter I realized that working with the smaller plywood pieces was better for my spine. Once I do a couple of procedures I will see if I need to attach them together with a quick release hinge or plate. I need to lie down and need to be able to work the water controls ,so I will leave a space open by the controls and spigot . I can put a pillow there if I need to. I also found out by accident that the home depot orange buckets are almost the perfect size for use as stabilizer columns, with lids or a shim underneath and filled with water, they would make great stable columns. So that really helps. The problem I need help with, is every time I think I found the answer a day later I realize it wont work. I am not a carpenter. I need to secure the plywood on the far side of the bath tub so I don’t have a flip over or collapse into tub. The far wall has ¼ inch of curved bathtub and then the tile wall. I think I need to make a wedge device to keep the board into the tiles and not let them shift or back out. The buckets maybe enough, but I have to move my body a lot during the procedure and don't want to take chances. 2 of the boards have 4 inches overhang on the bathtubs entry side, The lip for the bathtub in that side is I think 4 or 6 inches wide so plenty of support for the plywood. I have 4 inches extra overhang , I could cut that off . Or if it would be better attach some quick release wood for legs or even 2 inch PVC pipe if I could figure out an attachment with quick release. I was thinking of attaching a board perpendicular to the plywood to fit in the tub and keeping the plywood from shifting, and maybe a wooden wedge and notch system to push the board against the wall and keep it from backing out or shifting. I just had a brainstorm , put wooden perpendicular strips on both sides of the plywood . If exact and with the pails it maybe non shifting. Someone would have to help me with how to measure correctly, as my measuring skills are horrible. I may have a tool that would carry the measurement over. I did get a book on my new kindle that is all about measurement tricks, but I have not had time to even load it up
Posted by escapefromyonkers 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
The situation:I (will) have a disc of plywood roughly 20cm across. I need to cut a spiral notch in the ply, from edge to centre, around 3mm wide, so that I can hold a spiral of flexible ply in place and close off the end of the spiral at the same time.The perfect tool for the job is, of course, a router.The problem:I don't have a router.Short of buying a router just for this one job, what can I do to cut the notch?Plus:I've been saying "plywood" - is there another material that can be shaped the same way?
Posted by Kiteman 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
The chain link fence around our Bike Polo arena needs a 1' high runner at ground level. You can't bounce a Polo ball off a fence. I've found over two THOUSAND small 12" x 18" x 1" plywood pieces (hardwood, not OSB) . At $0.25 apiece, these are 1/10 the cost per square foot of Home Depot! What is the CHEAPEST way you can think of to permanently join 8 pieces in a row, edge to edge? You have $0.50 per join. You must be able to lift the assembly and smile, confident and proud of its rigidity. Already thought of: Gluing (biscuit, tongue and grove, etc): Lots of work, might work with the right process. Sandwiched between sheets (HDPE, HIPS, PC, etc): Expensive, >$1 per ft^2 Webbing, Jacob's Ladder style: Webbing ain't cheap
Posted by Marathon 5 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Anybody have a preferred supplier for laser-friendly materials? I'm looking for plywood and acrylic sheet (any colour), thickness 1-8mm, preferably (for fitting in the cutter) around A3 size. Have you come across anybody selling unusual sheet materials for lasering, or get them from unusual sources? Feel free to post links, of course. If you are a supplier, and don't want to get in trouble for spam, PM me, or pop over to my FB page, LightWorks Laser
Posted by Kiteman 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
So this is my first real project and I really don't wanna screw it up. 3/8" x 4' x 8' Degrade Spruce Plywood = $11.94 Chalkboard Paint - Black (887ml) = $21.50 Primer = (?) I'm thinking of sanding the plywood, then applying primer (what kind of primer? I have no clue about that), then two coats of the chalkboard paint. Is there anything wrong with my plan?
Posted by midevilshadow 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I need to make a watertight seal between a sheet of marine plywood coated with oil paint, and a 5mm sheet of polypropylene, both at right angles to each other. Both are well supported structurally independently of each other. Will silicone do the trick or are there other alternatives?
Asked by demorphica 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
The question pretty much says it all. I'm looking to attach plywood strips to a sheet of metal flashing. There is no place for screws or other physical methods of attachment. I have never used adhesives that much so I'm not really sure what would be the best for me to use. Thank you in advance!!!
Asked by SOLRUK 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I am trying my hand at building a canoe and while testing it in a pool it seems to be really tippy when stopped, but manageable when going forward. is this normal, or have I made some mistake along the way? the canoe is 8ft, plywood and with a V hull. some help/ pointers about how to fix it would be greatly appreciated.
Asked by matosmeister 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I am planning on building a version of the CC14 or NC16 from bateau.com. I would like to keep my costs down on this project as I just bought a car, but would still like to build this boat so I can get out on the water along with my wife who has a kayak. I was wondering if I could just use epoxy/fibatape combo to seal the seams and add strength where the panels come together, and then just use something like rubberized roof sealant (like used on the CozyBoat by TimAnderson) to seal the rest of the plywood from rot. Anyone have any ideas on this? Thanks.
Asked by RCS82 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I'm trying to design a sobwoofer box. I have a single sheet of plywood (and some smaller wood for a skeletal structure) and want to utilize as much of the wood as I can. By my estimate a single sheet cannot create enough volume for my speakers (believed to need 0.6 cu/ft to 1.25 cu/ft according to Alpine but online sub box calculators say it should be 7.9 cu/ft.
Asked by AndaleTheGreat 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Asked by Bill on the hill 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Haven't quite the time to do a proper instructible for this, but in case anyone finds it useful: http://solarflower.blogspot.com/2011/07/chicken-mesh-and-plywood-radiowifi.html Has schematics, 3d models and construction instructions. Cost about NZ$20 in materials (plywood, mesh, cable ties, screws), took a couple days to make, but really only because of the lack of proper power tools. Works real good.
Posted by SolarFlower_org 7 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Asked by 19751968firebird 9 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I know it is possible to by "flexible plywood" or "flexible MDF" - sheet material that can be rolled up in a single direction, whilst remaining rigid in the other. However, I have only found versions that roll with a minimum radius of about 15cm / 6". Does anybody know of a similar material that can be rolled with a much smaller minimum radius, say only 5cm / 2"? It doesn't have to be wood, any easily-worked sheet material will do if it can be rolled in one direction whilst remaining rigid in the other will do.
Asked by Kiteman 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Asked by joe.ashenbrucker 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I am working on a project that involves laser cutting wooden gears, and I would like some of these gears to be at 90 degrees to each other. Ideally, a beveled gear would be the best for this, but I doubt I could make one with a laser (I could possibly modify this method, or make one with interlocking parts but...) So to do that do I need to make a special type of gear, or could I just use this and mount them at 90 degrees?
Asked by astroboy907 6 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I have hand dug a "bomb shelter"/ multi-use "room" under my tool shop (outdoor building). This has taken me about three years, and hundreds of buckets of dirt up the ladder! It's 12 feet deep, and currently, 6 ft high, by 5 ft wide by 5 ft wide. In the middle of the floor of the tool shop, I have cut out a piece of the floor which is on hinges, and can be opened and closed as needed. A carpet covers this when not necessary to access the shelter. Nobody knows about it but me at this point. About a foot down below that, I have created a "false" top to the opening, which is just a sheet of plywood covered with dirt, which makes it look as if it is just the ground underneath the building. Currently, I am manually sliding the plywood off of the opening, which reveals the ladder down, and lights and door into the "room". What I need help with is motorizing this process. I would like to open the hinged plywood floor (manually), see just the "ground", and then somehow, activate a motor to slide the plywood off of the opening. (The way it is now, if anyone does discover the hinged opening under the carpet, all they will see if they open it is what just looks like the ground under the building.) The "false" ground/ door to the shelter opens about 40 inches, which is room enough for anyone to get onto the ladder and go down. I have explored various options, such as linear actuators, motors and pulley's, etc, but I'm stuck. I plan to make a track for the plywood to slide back and forth in. I need to be able to slide open the "door" from the top, while up in the building (motorized), and then be able to close it when down in the "shelter". Do they make actuators with that length of throw, and if so, aren't they very expensive? I've also explored the idea of mounting a nut on the board, using threaded rod attached to a motor, and somehow open it that way. I'm not sure how much the plywood weighs with the dirt on it. Thanks so much for any help and ideas. I plan to submit pictures as I can. P.S.-Not that important just yet, but once I have the motorized opening figured out, I want to either switch it on with possibly entering a code on a keypad, or somehow a "hidden" switch, like what they did in "Batman"(TV Series), or use something in the shop that looks like one thing, but would actually trigger the motor. Thanks!!
Asked by stevecinstrfme 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I am looking for a matte finish - but have heard that MDF can be really hard to stain. Will I be ok if I just apply a satin finish or tung oil? Anyone yielded good results with other methods?
Asked by twin8885 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
In order to accomodate the lights needed for my light up skateboard project, I wanted to case them in acrylic sheet, and then laminate plywood layers above and below. Would this provide the sufficient strenght needed for the skateboard. Thanks :)
Asked by PLdesign 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I would like to build a simple sturdy box to place under my washer and dryer. Something that can withstand the weight and build out of 3/4 " plywood. Any resources or ideas. I'm thinking of raising it 12". Possible room for storage baskets underneath it.
Posted by bkskaggs 10 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Hey guys and gals. I'm considering making this computer desk that uses one sheet of 4x8 plywood and was wondering if a sheet of MDF would work. I just got back from Lowes where I was checking prices on plywood and they didn't have the type of plywood thats veneered on both sides. I thought about using MDF instead and wanted to know how much of a difference it would make. My concerns with the MDF are finishing the final piece and attaching the hardware to the two halves. I've worked with MDF before, but it was under complete different circumstances and I didn't have to bother finishing the project with paint/stain. What are the pros/cons of using MDF vs. Plywood?The desk instructable
Posted by smkoberg 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Ninjabread Men Cutters Bent Plywood Bicycle Six-Cheese Nacho Fountain Caramel Dumplings Armored Messenger Bag 10 Uses for Old Toothbrushes Arduino to Nokia LCD Build a Stylophone DIY Portable Photo Booth The Magic Propeller Plant Cell Cake High-Gain Parabolic Mic Camcorder Shoulder Rig Air Freshener Sensor Hack Long Cargo Bike
Posted by randofo 8 years ago
Does anyone know how to obtain and replace the two round rubber shock mounts on an Aemes bent plywood lounge chair? Both have broken.
Asked by PeterBates 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I entered the Playwood contest with a little playwood Icosahedron but the entry was rejected. Tried an Email to the support but from the forum replies it seems good to ask here too why it was reected... The contest states made from plywood, I used plywood and wood glue. Other entries don't even use any playwood, instead particle board or even MDF. Can someone please explain why particle board and MDF is fine while using plywood gives a rejection? I'm not desperate for the contest just totally fail to understand the reason for the reject ;)
Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I'm looking for an electrical insulating tape that I can put over some exposed wire that will affix and stay put on plywood. Right now I'm using electrical tape, but the adhesion to the plywood surface isn't working that well. Anyone out there have ideas or suggestions?
Posted by phidgetsinc 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I need to make gears that are approx. 4 feet in diameter for a float in a parade. The gears will line the perimeter of the truck and are going to be made out of 3/4" plywood with metal bracing on the teeth to prevent the plywood from chipping and attached to a plywood background. It would be awesome if we could alternate 4 foot gears with 3 1/2 or 3 foot gears for visual interest. It needs to look childlike - so we are not using sawteeth. I'm going to try to attach a picture with our logo for ideas. Any help with designing a template or where I could go to get measurements would be appreciated! Thank you!
Asked by ttmoon 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am thinking of making a prototype plastic crusher/shredder out of a hardwood instead of steel. Do you think that a hardwood would be able to grind a plastic such as abs into small pellets? If so what kind of wood would be best? What if I made a plywood out of hardwood to strengthen the grain? What if I just use nice plywood?
Posted by rednax718 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I would like something that i can actually use or is valuable. Maybe make power. I am up for all suggestions, my budget is about $50 but may go higher because i am going to mow lawns this summer.
Asked by beyondimagination 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I want to varnish this birch plywood platform to keep it as waterproof and UV resistant as possible but also keep it as close to it's original pale birch colour as possible. i've never varnished anything before so i've been googling for answers and i'm getting some conflicting information, i've been looking at different clear outdoor varnishes and most claim to protect against UV light and not leave a yellow tint but most reviews say otherwise and some general varnishing info articles claim that clear varnish can't protect against UV at all and i'd need a dark stain which i really don't want. so what can i do to protect the wood against the elements and maintain the colour as much as possible? can i combine varnish with other stuff? i found some clear 'marine varnish' is this heavier duty than normal wood varnish or something?is there an alternative to varnish that will have a similar effect?if i need to modify the platform later, cutting bits out or drilling new holes is it ok to just apply another layer of varnish to reseal it or will it need preparing in some way or some additional step?
Posted by ambientvoid 6 months ago | last reply 6 months ago
*Hopefully this is the correct category..... Hello all! I am quite interested to start learning woodworking (already have some knowledge) And what better way to start that with a gas (or electric) go-kart :-P? I know fair amount of people who have built things out of wood, some younger than I am (14). And it seems like a very good skill to have. Plus, if I am good enough at it and I outgrow the go kart, Ca-CHING! I could sell it for profit (If it is in good enough condition still). I'm currently in 8th grade but I cannot take a woodworking class until 10th grade, So why not start? I was also wondering if the Ibles community could help? I could use some ideas, and I will need alot of info for the engine and frame.(If you can even find PEDAL CART info that would be awesome too). My plan is to have it done by mid summer (July 10 for me). This may seem like too much for me, but I want to build one that, if it doesn't have an engine, one could easily add one (I realize I can not run a gas/lawnmower engine on its side) Please leave your thoughts below!!
Posted by Randomguy65 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Two of my designs were featured in a very cool new book, PlyDesign, 73 Distinctive DIY Projects in Plywood by Philip Schmidt (and published by Storey Publishing). To celebrate (and to thank the instructables community -- without whom these projects would never have been "discovered") I'm giving away a copy.... but to make it interesting, this giveaway will be in the form of an informal contest. Post a comment with a link to your instructable. As long as your project includes plywood (or other sheet goods such as MDF, plyboo, etc) it qualifies. No publishing date restrictions, you can submit any instructable from the very first day instructables went live up to today -- however, choose your favorite instructable, because I will only consider one per person. The contest will close whenever I have 100 entries or on July 31st, 2012, whichever comes first. I will also be giving away a three month pro membership to my favorite instructable submitted by a non-pro member. I look forward to checking out your instructables! UPDATE: Member Makendo has offered another year membership for an instructable by a non-pro! So far I have no comments/instructables by non pros. Show me what you've made and you've got a very good chance at getting a year's worth of free pro membership...
Posted by belsey 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Neither the ice barrier or the felt was brought down over the edge of the plywood on the rake edge of the house before the drip edge was installed. Will these punctures enable the water to get to the plywood and swell it or cause leaks? This was a re-roofing with a complete tear-off. These holes were in the over hang part of the drip edge, not where the drip edge was intended to be nailed to fasten it to the roof. You can see the holes from the ground. Thanks, Bill
Asked by billygale 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I bought a painting at a thrift store. It appears to be palette-applied oil paint. There are no brush strokes that I can see. It looks like it was painted on plywood. It's pretty dirty. And it looks kind of old. There's no frame.
Asked by joni53 7 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I am trying to build a boat for a physics project, and i wanted to try building one that used a propellor instead of the usual paddlewheel or oars that other students have used. I bought a 2-blade trolling propellor from Walmart, and i plan on attaching it to a crankshaft via a 4:1 belt drive ratio (so with every rotation of the crankshaft, the propellor spins 4 times). Two people will be turning the crankshaft , and the boat itself is stocky with a flat bottom and pointed end. Is this even possible, and will it actually get the boat to move at a reasonable speed? ("Reasonable" meaning rowboat-ish speed) I included a quick sketch of what im talking about, and a picture of the blueprints to the civil war submarine that I got the idea from, just for proof of concept.
Asked by masterbuilder 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago