Building a Windmill

I live on top of a tall hill were the wind is always blowing at a constant 10 mph, and my electric bill keeps going up and up. So, the idea I have was to make a windmill that is powerful enough to generate between 8000 watts to 12000 watts. I want the design to be efficient, but at the same time not an eye sore. I figured that that just one windmill would need a 20ft propeller so I am leaning more to a series of windmills. I need some more information on the cost, and the design aspects of one or more windmills. If anyone has experience on this subject I would appreciate any information.

Posted by Sedgewick17 10 years ago


windmill with car alternator

Hi there,i want to know if it is possible to build a windmill with a car alternator to produce free electricity,and if there are any plans available?

Posted by merwe 5 years ago


Little Windmill Project

Hey everyone a while ago I was cleaning out my closet and found a little micano car, it had a motor on it I was wondering is it possible to use that to generate a little bit of wind energy, if so can someone who knows alot in this field explain how to I intend to have it as a show thing and is it possible to have different colored LED's and if it is windy it will light the all 3 and if its not it will light like 1 or 2 sort of like a wind gage. Anyway thanks for reading sorry if this is a stupid idea.

Posted by trucker1278. 3 years ago


Windmill on top of the mast?

Hi there, I'm rescuing an '72 all-wooden yacht (18ft) named Knights of Ni; the woodwork and painting are mostly done and I'm now busy with the electrics. It has a 12V system running of a car battery which is powered by a small solar cell and if necessary I can charge it on land. I was wondering though, whether it is possible to mount a small windmill on top of the mast using for instance the van of a vacuum cleaner and a bike dynamo (or anything else not too big and heavy), and then running a wire through the mast to the battery. I would be very grateful for your advice. If you want/need to see more pictures of the boat please give me a shout. Greetings from Holland, Barbarossa

Posted by Barbarossa 7 years ago


balancing windmill blades

A 5 blade rotor. making our own replacement blades a fair bit o' resestance to rotation from the generator, therefore, balancing it on the generator shaft is probably a no=go. the owner, for whom i'm doing the work suggests balancing 2 blades against one another.   But there are 5!  not 2 or 4.   maybe we make it a 4 blade... maybe we make sure each blade is excactly the same weight AND with CG at the same distance from center (sounds cumbersoe to get both mass And cg identical. suggestions?

Posted by Toga_Dan 4 years ago


Solar Windmills

Of the various renewable energy sources out there, solar and wind are among the most popular. Already windmills are springing up in various parts of the country. This got me thinking, what if you used some of that space on the windmill to harvest some energy. For example, what if you attached solar cells to the windmill rotors of tower to harvest extra power. What do you guys think?

Posted by purduecer 9 years ago


Demon Shadow-Windmill Shuriken

Hmm.... I have seen all these shurikens on Instructables, but none of them have pleased me. I think it would be cool if someone made the windmill shuriken....

Posted by PineapplebobTheGreat 10 years ago


Blade Tip Power System for wind energy...

I'm looking at adding a not too obtrusive wind generator to a house I just bought. One of the best I have come across is the honeywell BTPS (Blade Tip Power System) - it isn't as sleek looking as a lot of the turbines I am looking at, but it seems like a good concept to me. http://www.earthtronics.com/honeywell.aspxI can't believe that this company is the first to come up with the concept; has anyone here seen any other similar systems, designed to run in the lower speeds/altitudes common in a smaller residential setup, but generating decent power?

Posted by karossii 9 years ago


windmills here!

I have recently made a knex wind mill.Instead of using power....it makes it!Tell mee if u want pics : P

Posted by berrygunks 11 years ago


Gorrilas

Feel Good Inc. Music Videowindmiil windmill for the landturn forever hand in hand take it all in on all your stride it is breaking falling downlove forever love is free now turn forever you and mewindmill windmill for the landis everybody inFeel Good Inc.Gorrilas

Posted by dammoonnm 11 years ago


LED blades windmill - design and/or build the components ?

LED blades windmill - design and/or build the components ? About two years ago, a number of groups at Burningman had LED displays on the blades, powered by the same Windmill. The displays on each of the the blades could be programmed with different sequences of tri-colors to form art or pictures as the blades rotated. I am looking for someone to instruct me (an electronics idiot) or preferably build the parts necessary to put a similar unit up in the rural area I live in. The locals would be amazed (virtually no intelligence regarding technology!).   Top of Form 2

Posted by Kole951 8 years ago


What type of electric motor-generator and LED for this progect?

I want to build a tiny bike mounted wind turbine to power a white super LED light. What type of electric motor-generator would you recommend and what kind of LED? Would it require any other things like a heat sink? Off topic extra info: I'm thinking of running it directly off the windmill or maybe sending the output of the windmill to a rechargeable battery and running it off that. I only understand basic electronics, so please dumb down the responses :P Thanks in advance.

Posted by horsebones 7 years ago


FREE DOWNLOAD 1915 ELECTRICITY FOR THE FARM

This is not a scan of the original book, but the original book converted to text with OCR, and strictly proof read with QC controls. Thus the charts, formulas can be copied and pasted into something else.  www.gutenberg.org/etext/27257   ELECTRICITY FOR THE FARM LIGHT, HEAT AND POWER BY INEXPENSIVE METHODS FROM THE WATER WHEEL OR FARM ENGINE BY FREDERICK IRVING ANDERSON AUTHOR OF "THE FARMER OF TO-MORROW," ETC., ETC. New York THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 1915   PREFACE This book is designed primarily to give the farmer a practical working knowledge of electricity for use a slight, heat, and power on the farm. The electric generator, the dynamo, is explained in detail; and there are chapters on electric transmission and house-wiring, by which the farm mechanic is enabled to install his own plant without the aid and expense of an expert.    With modern appliances, within the means of the average farmer, the generation of electricity, with its unique   conveniences,   becomes   automatic,   provided   some   dependable   source   of   power   is   to   be had—such as a water wheel, gasoline (or other form of internal combustion) engine, or the ordinary windmill. The water wheel is the ideal prime mover for the dynamo in isolated plants. Since water-power is running to waste on tens of   thousands of our   farms throughout   the country,   several chapters are devoted to this phase of the subject: these include descriptions and working diagrams of weirs and other simple devices for measuring the flow of streams; there are tables and formulas by which any one, with a knowledge of simple arithmetic, may determine the power to be had from falling water under given conditions; and in addition, there are diagrams showing in general the method of construction of dams, bulkheads,   races, flumes, etc.,   from materials usually to be found on a farm. The tiny unconsidered brook that waters the farm pasture frequently possesses power enough to supply the farmstead with clean,   cool,   safe   light   in place of   the dangerous,   inconvenient oil   lamp;   a   small   stream capable of developing from twenty-five to fifty horsepower will supply a farmer (at practically no expense beyond the original cost of installation) not only with light, but with power for even the heavier farm operations, as threshing; and in addition will do the washing, ironing, and cooking, and at the same time keep the house warm in the coldest weather. Less than one horsepower of energy will light the farmstead; less than five horsepower of energy will provide light and small power, and take the drudgery out of the kitchen.   For those not fortunate enough to possess water-power which can be developed, there are chapters on the use of the farm gasoline engine and windmill,   in connection with the modern storage battery, as sources of electric current.   www.gutenberg.org/etext/27257

Posted by Lateral Thinker 8 years ago


How to store electrical energy

Hi,    I'm planning on making a windmill in our backyard since it's usually windy.  My problem is how to best store the electrical energy generated by the windmill for later use.  Any suggestions?  Thanks.

Posted by pinoymale 8 years ago


No idea how to make this LED Windmill

OK, I have an idea that sounds kind cool but no working knowledge of electronics. How difficult would it be to make a bank of wind powered LEDS? A circut that progressively lights up more leds as the wind kicks up to a higher speed?

Posted by Eye Poker 11 years ago


wind mill blade design?

Im currently building a windmill, and For the blade design I was thinking about going with something like this: https://www.instructables.com/id/Ted-Baer-s-Bicycle-Wheel-Windmill/  and I could use some help with figuring what the actual shape of the blades would have to be cut into, to fit onto the rim. thanks:D

Posted by jakem456 8 years ago


Mobile charger from wind/air like windmill

Hi All, I want to make mobile charger with wind power like when i am bike/car/public transport at 60km/hr, i should able to charge my mobile. power genrated should be 5 volt at 2 amp. Could you provide me idea to construct one?

Posted by vindude5 2 years ago


A different kind of Turbine

Check out this new design for a wind turbine.http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/7827044.stm

Posted by Yeasayer 9 years ago


Wind powered battery charger

HI.. this is my first post on these forums. I want to build a small windmill that will charge ordinary rechargeable AA sized batteries. however there's a problem. I have hooked up my windmill to a motor which produces DC current. Now, the motor provides enough and MORE current to charge the batteries. My problem is how do i protect the battery from overly high voltages and currents that may be generated by the motor?

Posted by mahela007 10 years ago


There is never no hope left

Sometimes, when I'm discouraged, I watch this video. It gives me hope.Moving Windmills.

Posted by Tool Using Animal 10 years ago


breakdancing group

Hello, I am trying to get breakdancing ibles on instructable going. It is a great way to get excercise and have fun! I made a group for all those who want to learn breakdancing. https://www.instructables.com/group/breakdancing/ For all those who already know how to do some moves like a bsic flare, post some instructions and add it to the group. Also, once breakdancing gets going on instructables, i need someone that can help me post contests and other things frequently. Thanks! =D

Posted by Football viking boy 7 years ago


Old Fan - One Non Electric Windmill Whilrgig = Help?

Hi, Well, I took apart a old fan, salvaged some parts and what I really want to do is make a nice whirlgig for my garden. Well I managed to put everything together without decorating it just yet - just to see how it all fit together - and I'm not understanding how to connect the blade in a way that it will stay connected to the bolt I drilled through the wood and yet still maintain the ability to spin in the wind. A nut isn't doing it. Any ideas? Muchly obliged for your help people. ~~*~~ Purple Swirl ~~~*~~~

Posted by purpleswirtl 7 years ago


The Boy Mechanic

Found this:The Boy MechanicIf you look at it, it seems old hat, but a few Hidrogen Generators, countless Photo projects, a real cool Turbine, and a pair of Lathe How-tos, along with an Aluminum Casting one, I find it interesting to say the least....And a Stationary windmill, that turns no mather where the wind comes from!

Posted by Edgar 11 years ago


DC treadmill motors 1.5-3 hp great for hobby, windmill, small EV's

I'm a fitness repair technician, i get some really good motors from time to time. Usually posted to ebay under seller name guaranteed_goods....i have 2 or 3 up at the time of this posting... feel free to msg me with what you are looking for....

Posted by mickeyaaaa 3 years ago


Cheap phone cards with no expiration?

Whats the best (and by best I mean cheapest) calling card I can get that doesn't have an expiration. I only need 30 or so minutes. I want to be able to call international (middle east) from my cell phone (T-mobile prepaid) without being charged ridiculous amounts. I want something that i can leave in my wallet for a year and not have to worry about it being expired when I need it. The picture is totally unrelated, its a windmill

Posted by LinuxH4x0r 9 years ago


Idea to Store Solar, or Wind Energy in Tanks in Central, South American, Africa

 I go to Togo, West Africa, and they already use, or need the black water tanks. they can have the water pumped using solar, windmills, or rope pumps, then allow it to fall, and light their houses with LED lights, and charge their cell phones. So what do you think, anyone have experience using these cheap hydro generators? Do they work? Do they last? Is there enough water pressure? Thanks, Andy Lee Graham https://www.hobotraveler.com/blogger.html

Posted by hobotraveler 1 year ago


Free boat as really cheap housing?

Has anyone else thought of getting their hands on a free boat, buying some cheap land (It's apparently not hard to get 5 acres in deserty parts of America for $5000 or even less) and burying the boat in the ground up to the waterline? You could use solar for power, and if your boat was a sailboat, you could probably rig a windmill to the mast to generate more electricity. Any thoughts on the practicality of doing this? Could you just dig a hole and bury the boat, or would it need some sort of framework to support it properly? Would transporting the boat to your land be too expensive to be worth it?

Posted by mharriger 11 years ago


A central non-electric grid electricity storage system for solar and wind energy with future expandibility

I have been thinking and reading about building a system so that I could surf using a laptop, charge lights, charge mp3 players, mobile phones, rechargeable batteries so that if possible they would not need electricity from the grid, rather that would be optional when there would not be enough power that was found otherwise. I had first thought to work this out in a group as a kind of project, as there are others but I don't really know that many people with those skills. The idea is that you start very basic, with say one solarcell and the electronics. The electronics should allow plug to when you wnat to have the money you can add another, in serie or parallels so they give more power. This can then be plugged in to a system that stores that electricity in batteries. The system should also be so that it allows to connect for example one or more small selfbuild wind turbines, like the ones found here, so that in the best case you get electricity from both, or one of both but with the possible option to get electricity from the grid so that if necessary you can charge something from there. That would mean it would include an electricity meter, and maybe the possibillity to add that self powering powerplant as well.So basically you have two projects. Or maybe three. The casing to add small solarcells in, and then be able to add several casing together. The electronics to put them in serie and then a central electronic system, which allows to connect solar casings, self build windmills, batteries, the self powering power plant, possibly the possibility to add it do the grid, and last but not least the possibbility to charge things. That could be a seperate part of electonics. As one of the things I had been thinking about is to allow to connect fuel cells to it. I prefer us in what already exist, so I would suggest using the following instructabels projects or learning from them:a Savonius Wind Turbine,Ted Baer's Bicycle Wheel Windmill, savonius windmill alternator,introPringles Wind Turbine,DIY 1000 watt wind turbine,A remote controlled power RGB LED mood light,Power LED's - simplest light with constant-current circuit,Circuits for using High Power LED's,personal powerPlant, ... others may follow laterLike for example the Charge Any USB Device by Riding Your Bike but then connected to the portable usb batteries, so they could be also connected to the central charge unit. The connectors could be usb connectors. I saw some time back a connector which had a 4 port usb block attached to it, but other connector types would be usable as well. In adition, it should be able to switch on automitcally when the sun goes down, but allow a control a button or remote control to trun them manually off, so that no needless electricity is wasted. I know this is a lott at once, but its more my kind of thing to work on more complete/complex systems. The lights that would be used with this would be led lights, powered a la sunjar, using the same technique. So that them turning off and on, is mostly controlled by the sun going up and down. My idea was that with such a system, I could add piece by piece, and still have light, and electricity indepency from the grid, and I would know the cost, so that once I would have bought the pieces it would generate electricty whitout to much further cost.Solarcells would typically provide 8V or 12 V, this could be smaller ones, the casing would be is supose made of plexiglas, with pieces that standup to keep them appart, and holes for the cables, and a backside, that stays dry as well. This is what is on the drawing: the solarcells feed into the sersol which puts them in not parallel and then transport the current to the cen1 which directs it to the batteries to store it. The same for the windmills. But they go to the windmills, which puts there current in not parallel. The powerreg, regulates the power of the personal power plant, it can discharge, but also just regulate. There is connector to the grid, so if there is no electricity or not enough electricity it can be taken from the grid. There is the possibillity of a remote, which would work in connection with the cen1. The batteries might need extra electronics to see which one is full and to divert the current to another battery, and to get current back to the powersockets which could be regular oens, but also preferably usb ones. The other two connections could be for for example fuel cells, or something else. The control solar cells is simply to turn the connected sunjars which may still each have there own solarcell, on or off by the rising or going down of the sunn. The remote, is to turn them off manually.The casing should be sturdy but not to expensive, it may have to include somethings to keep it right, but the idea is to be able to put them after glass as well. The idea is that the electronics design would be free, or very cheap, so that people can build this themselves, the casing shouldn't be to expensive but that can differ on taste, most parts or thing likes windmills would be the DIY type or possibly ones you can buy as well, and most parts would have to be, off the shelf. I'll try to add a basic drawing, and some sketches, to give you a better idea. I'm not that good at that, i'd admit.

Posted by Floris Vermeir 11 years ago


Plastic Windmill- Science-toy windpower generator help needed.

Hello,I am currently planning another kid-science project.I am still learning about electronics myself, and therefore would apreceate any help to complete a concept to create a wind generator that could power or blink a LED (maybee just at night to save power).I have attached a image with most info( PNG version at http://www.nottoxic.com/wapcc/ae/aqua/windmill.htm )but here a short review of what I am trying to achieve.I want to build a renewable energy powered toy/project.I thought of using windpower since we have lots here, while the weather is allways crappy, so solar cells wont be a good choice (next to price and allready used in other projects).I recently re-read a electronic book I had as a kid myself, and saw the coil-magnet electricity experiment. This would be very easily build and save lots of money. Buying whole classroom sets where the motor/generator alone costs 1 Euro out of my own pocket would cause this project to be put aside right away.I am aware that the magnet running over a coil wrapped around metal core will not produce much current, but I thought using a stepup converter or multiple coils, and charing the whole day, might be enough to at least charge a capacitor with 2-3v and enough milliampere that will discharge at night to blink a LED at 0.5 Hz or so.ANY ideas aprecheated ;-)Now prepare for another lo-fi concept image from myself...(full PNG version at http://www.nottoxic.com/wapcc/ae/aqua/windmill.htm as well )

Posted by schorhr 11 years ago


Thermodynamics for Highschool

So, I work at a science center and we have our annual Engineering Olympics coming up and we've been brainstorming something about thermodynamics. The general format is 6 teams from different highschools in the area are given a task to complete from one engineering discipline, such as construct windmill blades to achieve the highest amperage from an attatched motor or insullate a container of water with random materials to prevent it heating up when submerged in boiling water. This year, I haven't really found an idea for thermo that really excites me. Thermo isn't the easiest thing in the world in highschool, and since we're dealing with kids from different schools, we have no way of knowing how advanced they are. So, any ideas of a project to test their thermodynamic mettle?

Posted by Dinkum Thinkum 9 years ago


Enter the Invent Your World Challenge for a chance to win seed grants and a $20,000 scholarship!

Ashoka GenV's Invent Your World Challenge has wrapped up its first round with more than 70 entries from dozens of countries. Some of the brilliant ideas include portable windmills, a personal visual enhancement system, composting toilets, algae panels and solar food carts. Visit GenVCampaigns.org to see other ideas and find out which young inventors receive funding.Round Two is now officially open. Do you have an invention or adapted technology that can benefit others? If so, enter it now to be eligible for seed grants, awards, and a $20,000 scholarship. The deadline is March 15, 2009. To learn more and enter your own invention idea in The Invent Your World Challenge visit: GenVCampaigns.org.

Posted by JimYV 9 years ago


Looking for Magnets and / or Permenent Magnet Generators 12 Volts for Africa

Hello, I am working with a couple of young men in Togo, West Africa. They sell solar panels, and because batteries are so expensive, it they did one of them bike rim windmills, and generated 12 volts, during the nights, the houses could power up LED lights. Which 12 volt generator would you recommend to buy on Ebay? Please paste a link. What specific magnets are good for the bike rim, please give me the specific link on ebay. I hope someone has done this, and does know how, I can search.. . I watch so many videos it drives me crazy, I want to replicate, and often the buying details are not included. Thanks, Andy Lee Graham Travel Writer for HoboTraveler.com Merry Christmas hoboontheroad   AT yahoo.com

Posted by hobotraveler 1 year ago


Vertical Axis Wind Turbine - What is the best airfoil?

I've always been interested in windmills. The vertical axis wind turbine (VAWT) seem really cool. I discovered there is a company that (under contract) assembles them right here in my state of Michigan. So, on our summer vacation last year I diverted the family unit over to the assembly plant to see what's new, and exciting. Well, guess what, the plant is closed on weekend. Who knew. Well, for one, Momma thought I should have. Oh well, we got to see their demo unit Windspire up close anyway. It was just whipping. Anyway, to my question, if I wanted to build a really efficient VAWT, what would be the best shape for the airfoil? I've attached an old patent I found that has a drawing (Patent 4247252). I copied the drawing into Inkscape and redrew the airfoil using bezel curves. But, is this the best shape to start with? I'm hoping some aeronautical engineer out there can comment. Thanks, Jim

Posted by jimk3038 8 years ago


a few animatronic ideas could anyone help?

Hi all i want to build some small models and animate them. What id like to do is make some really small butterflys sitting on flowers rocks etc but want to make them flap there wings is therte any way i can do this??? also I want to add some small motors to some small windmill and watermill models to make them slowly turn. basicly Im a smurf collector who collects smurfs but also have a passion to create a whole smurfland in the loft rather than a train set lol. But I want to add some sort of anamatronics etc to make parts of it move and bring it all to life a bit more. So lights going on and off bugs flapping there wings etc mabe little boats moving around on the river? some of the characters moving some how? Basicly is there anyone who has any idea on how I can do any of it?? If you can help or point me in the right direction id be very greatfull. here are a couple of pics of a couple of my self made mini smurf houses that are only about 7 inches in hight. :-) Kind regards Steve ;-)

Posted by smurrell 6 years ago


Help: Pump water into barrel for cheap? (and off-grid)

I'm sort of undecided on the best way to go with a water pumping project and hoping someone had some advice/ideas. The goal: pump water from a small stream into a rain barrel (or IBC tote) in a location with no electricity. It's for having water available for watering fruit trees and doesn't need to pump much volume (even 100 gal/week would be great).  It does have to do it while I'm not around though and I'd like to do it as cheaply as possible. My idea is to make a small diaphragm pump out of pvc (for the housing) and some rubber (for the diaphragm) and a couple check valves.  My inspiration is this guy's pump.  I could drive it with a small DC motor powered by a solar panel.  Maybe install a float switch that turns it off if the barrel gets full. Any other ideas on making a diaphragm pump using cheap or found parts? I've never done anything with solar and would appreciate any advice on components.  What needs to go between the panel and the motor, if anything?  I've heard talk of a "controller" but have no idea what it is or what I'd need...  Also a goal is to design using as low power motors as possible so that I don't have to spend much on panels. I've also played around with the idea of something wind powered, like this thing (but cruder, presumably).  And had this other crazy idea to make a bellows-style pump for a windmill using a toilet plunger. Anyway, any thoughts and ideas are appreciated!

Posted by Sam_NY 5 years ago


Low pressure pneumatic grid (1 to 4 psi) to use small wind, small hydro and small solar power?

I have used low pressure air and a simple "airlift pump"  to cycle water around a "pallet  Garden" since August.  This meant that very little water was being used but the plants were growing really well.   the air comes from an aquarium bubble pump and it is about 1 psi.  The pallet garden is almost 20 ft from the little bubble pump.   Recently I decided to do something similar in my greenhouse, but it is 120 ft from the little pump and there is no electrical socket close.  So reluctantly I bought another 120 ft of 1/4 inch tubing to send the air to the greenhouse.  I didn't expect it to work at that distance.  But it is working great. Why not use air instead of electricity to move the energy from "toy" windmills in gardens? Or from low head small water power?  I bet anyone could make a compressor to make 1 PSI.  It is orders of magnitude easier than making a direct water pump or converting the energy to electrical and then back again in a pump.  An airlift pump is just a vertical tube in the water.    How simple is that!   and it is darn cheap too.  You can use this for pumping water (Highest I ever got was 18 ft with 1 psi) or just bubbling air into a fishpond or to actually move the water in small water features.   Or of course in the pallet garden or in aquaponics.  And even thought this energy is useful at that scale it can never ever be made worthwhile to share it electrically.  But maybe your grid could extend to your neighbours garden too?  You could have an interconnector if you or they have a bit of excess pneumatic power!

Posted by gaiatechnician 5 years ago


Bizzare Google Earth images of my home town.

I was fiddling around with google earth the other day when I realized that I've never looked at the area around my home town in Nebraska. I dialed in the coordinates and pulled up the satellite images, and what I found was so profoundly strange that I felt compelled to share it. What you are seeing here are topographical images of prairie land and cows. The land consists of small rolling hills of dry grassland, and as you can see, the only landmarks to speak of are the cattle stock tanks. These tanks are essentially circular, large, metal, outdoor swimming pools, some as wide as 30 feet across. The tanks are placed on some of the higher hills with a windmill powered pump to keep the tank full of fresh water. Cattle are then let loose on the land to graze on grass and drink from the tanks. Over time the cattle wear down paths in the grass leaving only dusty trails concentrated around the tanks. I am speculating here a bit, but my theory is that rainfall then follows these trails down the hills and creates the strange, vein like lines through the grass. I don't know how long the area has been used for keeping cattle, but my father grew up here and will be able to tell me more later. The final image is of the developed farm land a little closer to civilization. Most people don't know this, but Nebraskans are really into pie charts. Ok, that may be just me, these are are the patterns left by automatic springler systems. They are literally "crop circles" as corn and sugar beets are only planted within the area that the center pivot sprinkler can reach. PS: These stock tanks are ripe with salamanders, but I still have yet to learn how they got in tanks in the first place? It's too dry to walk to the tanks, and they are pretty far from natural water anyway. There is a massive aquifer underneath all of this, maybe they get pumped up into the tanks? Can salamanders live in aquifers?

Posted by Tomdf 5 years ago


The Lovebox, Laser Projector, Dirty Soap...

Sign-up for our newsletter here. Dec. 20, 2007 Welcome back! Don't forget to enter the Homemade Holidays Contest! Share your homemade holiday gift ideas through an Instructable, a Slideshow, or a Video, and win great prizes from CRAFT magazine! Check out these cool instructables! LoveBox - The box of love Put your electronics knowledge to work by making a special present that delivers a random message of love when it's opened.posted by matseng on Dec 18, 2007 Rubens Tube Yule Log Make your fireplace dance along with the Christmas tunes by putting a classic physics experiment to good use.posted by bofthem on Dec 17, 2007 Cool Wave Ring Learn how to make a cool wave ring from scratch, or many other kinds, with these clear instructions and helpful videos. posted by hydemetals on Dec 13, 2007 Dirty Soap For the friends that have dirty minds and good senses of humor, this is the perfect stocking stuffer that makes soap fun again.posted by fungus amungus on Dec 15, 2007 Chocolate Peppermint Bark Dark or semi-sweet chocolate, white chocolate, and crushed peppermint candies. What could be easier? posted by canida on Dec 8, 2007 Win a $15,000 VersaLaser! Low cost tank-tough workbench Build a workbench that can survive being run over by a tank, or at least anything you can throw at it.posted by jmengel on Dec 16, 2007 Mysterious Lightbulb PrankHave you ever seen the Magic Lightbulbs magicians use? Here's how to make one that will drive people crazy! posted by Kipkay on Dec 13, 2007 Laser Image Projector Project a creepy green image on any surface without having to worry about any focusing problems. posted by echo_anomie on Dec 19, 2007 A Home Power Plant - Wind Power Generator Revised Plans for Building a Wind Power Generator in the form of a Savonius Rotor Windmill. No welding or casting required, posted by bhunter736 on Dec 14, 2007 Build a Greenland Kayak This instructable will teach you how to build a 17 foot long Greenland kayak that will weigh 30-40 pounds and cost less than $300. posted by nativewater on Dec 18, 2007 Gingerbread! 'Tis the season for gingerbread! Whether you see it as a food or a building material, you can probably use a few new tricks. Check out these Instructables for some fresh ideas. Gluing a gingersnap cottage (like a nerd) Here's a safe and effective way of gluing a gingersnap cottage with molten sugar. posted by all_thumbs on Dec 2, 2006 Gingerbread Cake Bars with Lemon Glaze This the combination of gingerbread and lemon is easy to make and well worth the time! posted by aliciak on Sep 8, 2007 Candy Towers Built with a Molten-Sugar Hot-Glue Gun Build Seussian candy towers with molten sugar to make your gingerbread house unique. posted by ewilhelm on Dec 20, 2007 How to create gingerbread houses If you're new to the gingerbread house scene, here's a great way to get started. posted by simonechavoor on Dec 14, 2007 Ginger Bread Houses A few of our own gingerbread houses that we made to get into the spirit of the season. Happy Holidays! posted by ewilhelm on Dec 20, 2007   Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric

Posted by fungus amungus 10 years ago


whats next (updated)

Ok i bough this knex lot on ebay.com for $42 and it comes with tons of stuff and below is what it has from the bid. take a look.This weighs OVER 20 pounds and we stored them in a Almost full, 64 quart Rubbermaid container (not included) LOTS AND LOTS!! Some of the pieces included are from rare and older sets, some of the pieces/sets are from the early 1990's.In the pictures is a 2 liter of soda, for size reference, not included.One picture is of the lot together, one is of the instructions included from front and top to see thickness, and one is of the motors and zip pull car included.There are 3 motors included in this lot; *one is a big alien(?) head, that i don't know what it is or what its from, but its a blue head & a big black power box & 2 additional motors that are all attached to the head with wires. I am unsure if this works, (untested) because i don't know what it is supposed to do, it does take batteries and as far as i can tell, it does not use a power cord. *One large grey one, takes batteries and does work, it measures about 6 inches long, 2 inches wide, 2 1/2 inches tall and goes forward and reverse and slow and fast, this come with batteries in it and can be used for ANYTHING! Cars, farris wheel, swings, anything your little ones hands can make!*another motor is the motor that came with the Farris wheel and/or roller coaster set, one of those, it is untested because the power cord box is missing from it, but it is a typical power box plug that is needed. worked last time my kids built a farris wheel ;0)Several WheelsI did not go through and inventory them all, because there are alot! But it does appear that they are all in pairs. There are 4 BIG monster truck wheels with rims (complete set) and there are medium wheels and small wheels that all share the same rims, there are also skinny wheels for like dragster type or motorcycle vehicals. and more!A zip-pull racer car, speedster!One red zip-pull racer car body, with pull, used for building a car or racer around and then insert the zip pull above the wheel and when you pull it out really fast the car takes off!!! No batteries required and it works!! (And there are instructions for this in here also.)Lots of gears! Lots of sticks in various colors and sizes!Lots of plugs and rings, or end pieces for stabalizing and holdingSeveral fans or flat pieces, (i.e. for a windmill or spoiler on cars etc)A few bendable pieces to make arches and turns2 bodies for making peopleSeveral caps and tops and 'balls' for building different thingsRubber bands for Racers and gears (instructions included)Instructions are for;(instructions are not in the best conditions, some have been ripped and taped back together, and some are missing small corner pieces, and have folds in them, but they are not missing pages as far as i can tell)*Rubber Band Racers (no model number on booklet)*Breakaway Speedsters 11524/21524*Street scorchers 11127*Safari Fun Set 11558/69815*Intermediate set 50015 and some loose various pages that may have been from another book/set that was simular or more advanced are inside this book also.*4X speedsters 3 10315/69948*Knex motor pack instructions for use (for the motor that is missing the AC adapter, says it uses input 120 volts AC 60Hz 12 watts, output 12 volts DC 500 mA adapter.) and there is a costumer service number on it to order replacments, so that may still be available.*Zoo 10 models building set 31009*Vehicles 10 models building set 31008*All terrain trekker builds 3 models set (uses the big gray battery motor) 13501/23505*Roller Coaster instructions Loop Version 63030 (I do not recall us having this roller coaster set and did not see any 'rail' pieces in this mess of Knex, but I did see some 'chain' pieces and gears, most of the set looks like the normal pieces, with exception of the top rails.)*AND also some advertising booklets that came with the sets that show additonal sets, the kids kept them and would use them to copy the pictures and build from them.*I do Not have instructions for that big head thing...I really do not know where we got it...??? But it is K'nex brand.All the instructions included are Awesome to have, because thats what usally gets lost, However, this lot does not included all the sets i have instructions for, and the ones I do have are probably not complete. Most of the instructions though can be used with any Knex pieces, I am just saying if you seperated them all out according to the instructions you will not have complete sets, and some pieces may not be there at all. These are used and were loved by my boys and some pieces were mine when I was younger and are 18+years old. I did not notice any broken pieces left in this lot, but there are A LOT of knex so there may be some, the few I did noticed i took out and threw away.but i was wornding what should i bulid but im make a listmakeing:ossr by dj radiocirle ball machine by iacscar11.01 and morriti and Park 52 knex sniper by the burrito masteriac's knex heavy cannonbox,nano,duex by darth trainmancrank by smileedos,project n,uno by the jamalamLithium by the knex weaslemicro by cfcubedthis is not well know so it has link Ultimate Simplicity https://www.instructables.com/id/Ultimate-Simplicity/project 1: relentless,Project 2: Aggresor by tombuckeyThe Storm 223 V1.3 knex gunKnex Tavor TAR-21 by maxxium

Posted by knexsuperbuilderfreak 9 years ago


unfinished,5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM

5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM Required Material of project:- 1. Basic Servo Tower pro 9g*4 2. Header pins Male female*2 3. Arduino Nano*1 4.10kΩ Resistor resistance*2 5. Trimmer Potentiometer track Linear; maximum resistance 10kΩ*4 6. Tactile push button*2 7. Blank circuit board*1 8. Acrylic strips for Robot & potentiometer body*2 9. Wires, Button, Switch 10.Balsa wood, Metal, Plastic Procedure:- Arrange all necessary items.. Please go through the attached images  for better understanding.. I divide whole project in two parts 1) Servo Motor assembly 2) Potentiometer assembly 1) Servo motor assembly: – Servo motor as J1, J2, J3, J4 fix the servo motors as shown in image use 3M tape to glue servo, use thin flexible plastic strip to make griper, make hole in center of each finger tie thread in that hole pass this thread from center hole and tie knot at the other end of thread with 4th servo motor’s knob, as you stretch thread finger get close vise versa. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. 2) Potentiometer assembly: – Fix potentiometer as shown in figure name potentiometer as do previous R3, R4, R5, R6 this time place R6 separately for easy access this potentiometer control gripper to pick and place. Potentiometer arrangement symmetry must be same as servo arm. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. Moving a little bolt from one side to the other side:- 1. Actuators / output devices: 4 micro servos 2. Control method: controlled by a PIC16F690       assembler firmware 3. CPU: PIC16f690 micro controller 4. Operating system: self made assembler code 5. Power source: 4.8V to 6V from 4 battery cells 6. Programming language: PIC Assembler 7. Sensors / input devices: teach in system with                         4 potentiometers       Making Processer:- The Potis are standard types and are screwed to the white plastic parts with their nuts. The axles are pressed into the transparent plastic part. The handle to move the teach-in-arm is a M3-Spacer and the socket is a plastic part with is normally used to fix balloons on a stick to hold it.                     move the motor itself by hand a little force is needed due to its permanent magnets, which create a small holding force. But inside the servo a lot of gears increase the force which you have to apply. If you move the servo by hand, you have to apply a much higher force. If you overcome the motors holding force, it starts to rotate an acts as a flywheel. So moving a servo by hand needs a high torque and its not easy to turn it to the position where you want it. ( Fan control modules for engine cooling of real cars have some extra parts to clamp the voltage which is generated, when you drive at higher speeds. In that case the fan works like a windmill and creates higher voltages than normal inside the power stage of the module.) And there were also a lot of other "problems" which had to be solved using my PIC Controllers. i.e. self made electronics for a RC-Excavator which works similar to the digital system used in slot cars. To replace a lot of wires between the rotating part of the excavator and the track unit, a small PIC 12F629 reads the pulses from up to 5 channels of a RC-Receiver and leads their information via a 2 wire connection to a second PIC12F629. At the second board the power is separated from the data. The PIC is reading the data, and generates the PWM output for the 5 Servo output connector. the 2 wire connection is made with a cheap 6,3mm mono microphone plug which is also used as the axle for the rotating part. The arm of the excavator is also powered by standard servos and so it was necessary to change the control behavior from proportional to integral so that the servos move like real hydraulic cylinders which are controlled by valves. I used the same 12F629 type for that job and added some features like adjustable limit positions and starting point programmable by one jumper, and automatic return to park position when missing the pulses for some seconds. The Software is simple:- Its working like a servotester for four axis. That means, every poti is connected to an analog in of the controller and all servos are connected to GPIOs. The controller reads each poti, does some scaling, so that the angle of the poti equals to the angle of the axis and finally he creates the PWM output 1-2ms pulse every 20ms for all servos. Teach mode:- After a reset the robot arm follows the teach in arm while simple mapping the analog inputs every 25ms to the servo motors. Pressing the button stores each servo position in a array. Play mode: The sketch reads the array step by step and moves the robot arm. For cool looking movements I added a routine calculates different micro steps for each servo to have moving start and end sync on all axis. Also added a ramp for soft increase/decrease velocity. Shorter travel distances the robot does slow, longer distances with faster speed.           The program moves the servos at full speed to the next position and a short delay time after each command allows all of the servos to reach their final position. That means that it is possible to increase the speed a little bit more by doing some fine tuning of the delay times after each command. The final thing which is still not implemented is the routine which saves the "Teach In" data 5 or 10 times per second, so that the controller is able to replay it in a loop with the original speed or with a lower or higher speed. Electrical Connection:- Provide separate power supply (5V DC 1amps) to the Servo motors . Don’t forget to short ground of both power source ( arduino + servo) 5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM :- 1. Use of Fiber on upper side 2. wooden spoon is a part of side body 3. cable tie *12 pieces use the robotic. 4. Some pices of wires 5. use scraw*4 6. Glue 7. some small clips Because to attached body 8. small size of plastic box 9. One pieces of  square fiber stand and one pieces small & medium  circular fiber  10.  L293D Motor Driver IC+IC Base KG143 11. Generic Elementz High Quality Nickel Plated 24*18 Points Bread Board*(2 pieces) and one plastic 12. Push Button Switch. Play Mode version 1.1 The gripper input is used to set the delay (0,1,3,15,60,300 seconds) after a loop is done. The switch (it was left from the project start) pauses the robot.        Thanks you:

Posted by aarif1234 1 year ago


Technology Makes Cheap Drinking Water from Air

INTRODUCTION:   How can we best apply basic technology to help the underprivileged and/or disaster-hit countries like Haiti? Daily hygiene and nourishment are among the top needs for disaster ridden regions!  Simply put, no water means no hygiene. The Romans understood that over two millennia ago and created their complexly beautiful aqueduct networks for handling both fresh and wastewater! Other ingenious water systems like “air wells” have been found in the city of Theodosia (cf: discovered in 1900 by Zibold, see Zibold’s Collectors/Dehumidifiers) dating back to Greco-Roman times during the Byzantine Empire. These were strictly passive systems that naturally dehumidified air, collecting its potable water in underground basins. All air, even in relatively dry desert regions, will precipitate or release its natural water content (initially in the form of vapor) through condensation when it hits its dew-point temperature and below. That means you “chill” it to an appropriate level that is anywhere from 5F to 50F below its current air temperature, depending upon how much water content (relative humidity) it has locally absorbed. The condensation of the water vapor releases its internal latent heat (reheating the cooled air) which must be constantly dissipated (absorbed by something) in order for water formation to steadily continue. So how do we dissipate this resultant vapor-heat and chill our air without any infrastructure or electricity, in an underprivileged or disaster-ridden region? We simply bury a long cast-iron or any metallic drain-pipe sufficiently underground where the temperature of the earth is naturally held to a constant at around 45F to 55F. That’s our “free” chiller gift from nature. One end of the pipe, Figure-1,  sticks out of the ground to suck-in local outside hot air, and the other end dumps cooled dry air and water into an underground cistern where it gets collected and is piped to the surface to both exhaust the cooled dry air and connect to a water pump. We need a hand operated water pump to lift up the water above ground, and we need an electric fan to constantly pump air through the ground-chilled piping system. We can even force the cooled piped air to exhaust into a tent-like structure where it provides air conditioning as an added bonus, but this adds the penalty of both power and the increased fan size necessary to drive our required airflow further into an enclosure! While this concept is not “passive” (requiring electricity to work) like those clever Byzantine air-wells, it will produce much more potable water and within a smaller volume than those elegantly passive historic devices. The electricity for our fan power requirements can be produced by any one of four ways using either “active” or “passive” techniques: 1) An active playground or bike-pedaling-person or oxen-driven mechanism-generator, 2) A passive windmill generator, 3) A passive solar energy collection system that directly generates electricity, or 4) A passive thermo-electric system that directly generates electricity using the Peltier effect, operating solely on temperature differences between the cell’s top and bottom surface (we jury-rig the cool pipe and hot ambient air to contact separate sides of the cell). Depending upon how much water is needed, the required air volume plus pipe length and diameter, together with the fan will be sized accordingly. We can also configure groups of parallel fan-driven air pipes that are radially fed into the cistern. The sizing of this underground network depends upon the ambient air’s local average temperature and relative humidity (how much water gets absorbed into the air) plus buried pipe depth and effective underground temperatures achieved. The basic concept is one where we “wring” water from air at some given humidity content. The higher its relative humidity the more water is recovered from the air. The air-wringing process simply chills the air as it scrubs along the cooled internal pipe surface until it starts to rain inside the pipe from condensation onto its surface. The condensation is like the dew that forms on car windows, grass or any cooled surface in the early morning, before the sun comes out and evaporates the dew back into the heating air. A further bonus is that our dew-formed water is naturally distilled and very clean. It is potable water ready to drink without the need for additional sterilizing agents. Of course, we must make sure that the interior piping and cistern network is biologically cleansed before burying it underground. The hand pump with its 10 to 15 foot extended piping to reach the underground cistern must also be cleansed. The beauty of this constantly replenishable water supply is its convenient underground installation anywhere! After the in-ground installation, we have a virtual, partially passive, no moving parts, non-breakdown system containing above ground total access to all moving parts that could breakdown, namely the water pump and electric fan. Also, it is easily maintained, with few moving parts (water hand-pump and electric fan) and basically lacking any technical complexity which makes it ideal for technologically backward regions. The example below uses a relatively small industrial fan moving air at 1500 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) with a DC motor rated at 1kW. This fan together with our underground piping system will conservatively generate 12 GPH (Gallons Per Hour) of potable drinking water without need for any purification chemistry. Based on an average electrical cost of 14-cents per kWh (kilo-Watt hour), the typical commercial distillation of one gallon of drinking water costs roughly 35-cents as compared to our cost of only 1.2-cents. Furthermore, if we decide to go green and use solar energy for generating our water, it would effectively cost us nothing beyond the initial installation! USING A PSYCHROMETRIC CHART TO SIZE OUR WATER SUPPLY: The following gets a little technical and is only provided for those die-hards who are truly interested in how the science works. Those non-technically schooled may skip this part and not miss the basic concept. Figure-2 shows a Psychrometric Chart for air. This chart summarizes some of the basic thermodynamic properties of air throughout its typical range of operating temperature. The chart uses six basic air properties that defines the physical chemistry of water evaporation into air:  (1) the enthalpy or total energy contained within a unit of air which is a combination of its internal and external energy, expressed as the amount of BTU-energy per unit mass of reference dry-air, (2) the specific volume or the ratio of a unit volume of local air to its mass of reference dry-air, (3) the humidity ratio or the amount (mass) of moisture in a local unit of air divided by its reference mass of dry-air, (4) the percent relative humidity per unit of local air, or the mass ratio (expressed in percentage form) of the partial pressure of water vapor in the air-water mixture to the saturated vapor pressure of water at those conditions (the relative humidity depends not only on air temperature but also on the pressure of the system of interest),  (5) the dry-bulb temperature or the locally measured air temperature, and (6) the wet-bulb temperature or saturation temperature which is the local air temperature experienced during constant water evaporation (a wet-bulb thermometer is typically used:   a thermometer that measures resultant temperature while wrapped in a water wet-gauze and spun to generate local air movement and max-evaporation)  1.0   The Process and A Sample Calculation Our Psychrometric Chart uses six thermodynamic properties that help to determine the amount of water available for extraction from the local ambient air as a function of its temperature, pressure and relative humidity.  Let’s assume the following local ambient conditions for the region we plan to construct our water system at:  (1) Typical daily air temperature Td = 106F and one atmosphere pressure assumed at sea-level, (2) Relative Humidity, RH = 55%, and (3) Typical underground temperature down at six feet is measured at Tu=55F (at 12ft. it drops to ~45F). This yields the following calculated results for obtaining a steady-state supply (changes at night) of water to fill the cistern:      1)      In our example, the “local” air (dry-bulb) temperature is Td=106F, at a relative humidity of RH= 55%.  Fig-2 indicates that the resultant Humidity Ratio is HR= 0.0253 Lbs-water/Lb-Dry-Air (intersection of Td=106F line and RH=55% line, then horizontal to HR value).  We then determine the “gulp” of air volume containing the HR Lbs-water which corresponds to the point of intersection of Td and RH. Interpolating on specific volume “mv” yields mv=14.7 ft3/Lb-Dry-Air (this value sets the optimum unit airflow for our given ambient conditions, and creates a ballpark pipe length to diameter ratio needed later). It represents the basic unit of air volume that will enter our underground pipe per given time, and ultimately defines the size of our fan and piping network. For increased water creation, multiples of this unit volume will scale up the additional amounts of water that can be collected. 2)      As the inlet air cools down to a temperature of Tu=55F, from contact with the relatively cold underground pipe, we follow the constant enthalpy line (red upward left-diagonal) from the intersection of Td and RH to its saturated air temperature condition of Ts= ~88F, which is its dew-point temperature where the corresponding local RH=100%.  At this temperature or under, the air precipitates and releases its moisture content, resulting in water condensation onto the pipe walls.  Since our air will chill to a final pipe temperature of Tu=~55F, we follow the RH=100% saturated curve (green) down to yield an HR=~0.009 Lbs-water/Lb-Dry-Air. This is how much water is left in the air when it gets to 55F.  Therefore for every pound of local outside air that enters the pipe, mw=0.0253 – 0.009 = 0.0163 pounds of absolute pure, distilled potable water precipitates onto the inside pipe wall (per pound of dry air that is cooled and dehydrated) to gravity-flow out the pipe exit and into the cistern. 3)      We now convert pounds of air per unit time into a unitized volumetric airflow that yields gallons of hygienically pure potable water production per unit time. For every Va=100 ft3 of local volumetric air movement per minute (CFM) through the pipe, which translates into ma=Va/mv= 100/14.7 = 6.8 lbs. of dry air per minute or 6.8 * 60 = 408 lbs. per hour (PPH), to yield a water-flow of mwf=ma * mw = 408 * 0.0163 = 6.65 PPH or 6.65/8.345 = 0.8 GPH of water.  An industrial fan rated at 1kW DC will typically move 1500 CFM at a pressure of 8-iwc, to continuously produce 15 * 0.8 = 12 GPH of pristine potable water. 4)      Not shown here are the design details of sizing our pipe, fan and solar collection system for electric power requirements using heat transfer principles coupled with a thermodynamic heat balance, and aerodynamic fan performance assessment. These details help to size the electric power generation requirements plus margin used to properly size a solar collector containing further margins for overcast days. The engineering involved here is straight forward but beyond the scope of the current project.

Posted by RT-101 6 years ago