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After dipping paper in vinegar which I needed to do for an art project, I would now like to prevent it from deteriorating. How can I neutralize the paper so it lasts,

Hey guys, I want to bug you's again. Instead of trying to ask about different things in one of my other topics, I wanted to start a new one. I went to the local dump today, and one of the first things I spotted was Three, not just one, booster packs. You know, the ones you can charge up and boost a car with, and some of them have inverters built into them so you can run small appliances. Well I snapped all three of them up, thinking that at the very least, the lead acid batteries inside them would be OODLES of help towards making a full scale wind generator (I plan to build one or two full size wind generators with car alternators, whenever the good weather comes and I can work outside). Well, I got them home and cracked them all open. Turns out that only one battery is good to me (pictures below). The two identical units have 350 watt inverters built into them (I've removed one so far), but the batteries were bulging and the sides were split open, although not leaking, which was good, less mess to clean up. The third booster pack I opened appeared to have been already attempted at being opened. 4 of the 6 screws had been drilled out (which is beyond me as far as why they would do it? They were only phillips screws), but maybe they weren't successful? It had a couple wounds of electrical tape around it to hold it together. Needless to say, whatever cutting tool they used, cut into the battery itself (they cut too far in, dumbasses...), and so my main question here is, is the battery safe to charge, and use? I took some macro's of the damage and some of the cut marks seemed to have gone far enough in to cut into what appears to be a white plastic lining inside, as the white crud on the sides of the battery feels more like burnt on plastic from a cutting disc than it does acid that oozed out and dried up, so the damage doesn't appear to be that bad. What's the worst that could happen anyways? Also, the battery has about almost 8v left in it, and another question is, is that too low for a 12v battery? Like has it been discharged too far? Also, aside from the battery. I found this plate with a transformer, giant capacitor, and a pcb that looks like it was some kind of voltage converter board (I would take a picture but I've since cut a few things off of it and I won't even bother now) The transformer puts out 25v and you can see in the pictures what the capacitor is rated for (I would like to know what I can use this capacitor for, or if I should save it and wait till I can make a bank of capacitors for a tesla coil project or something) What I can't figure out, is what is this square device I found that was plugged into one of the output leads of the transformer? It only had two leads coming off of it, one is marked + and one -, the other two terminals don't have marking on it. No model numbers or anything. Does anyone know what this is? Also, last in my pictures is one of the inverter boards I pulled out of one of the power-packs. I cut the second outlet off and wrapped the first one in tape just to make sure I dont' shock the hell out of myself. I have my truck battery sitting inside over the winter, and with a good 12.71v, I thought it would be the perfect battery to try the inverter on. I brushed the wires onto the top terminals of the battery and although I could hear a bit of sparking, I saw nothing and the indicator light on the power switch didn't light. The volt meter also showed nothing from the 120v outlet. So I tried shoving the wires into the bolt sockets that the truck's wires bolt into, and I quite literally startled myself as it emitted a really loud BEEEEEEEEEEP, I nearly jumped through the roof. The indicator light turns on when I flick the switch to I and I can hear the transformer making a little buzzing sound. However, when I measured the AC voltage from the outlet, I didn't write down the voltage, but it was around 3v? Not even quite that much. I'm not sure if the inverter is screwed or if it has something to do with the switching nature of power inverters causing my multi-meter to not read it right? One other thing I will note is that I had to cut the power switch leads to remove it from the case, then re-solder the switch. The switch has 2 black wires and one red, I tried my best to make sure that each black wire went to the terminal on the switch it came from, and I assume if I didn't hook the switch up right, it wouldn't have lighted up or anything right?? I don't want to try plugging something into it for fear that it will blow up in my face, at least not until I know it's functioning like it should be, however I doubt these power packs were throwing out for failure of the inverter... *On the side note* I apologize for these (sometimes) rediculously long posts or just mundane questions. However, I like to be thoughrough with my questions so that there are very little questions asked, about my question, in the first place. As it seems to waste a lot of time asking for details about this or that problem, when you could just throughly explain it all in one go. This is what I try to do, so there are no blank spaces for you guys to try and "assume" where you don't know the proper information. Secondly, I've really appreciated the help, and sometimes just the helpful and creative ideas I hear from others, makes me feel good, like there's actually some people on here that know what they're doing and I can trust their answers (Nacho, kiteman, caitlyn's dad, 1010100100, all of you regulars, have been great help to me) *End of girlish requiem*

I woke up really early one morning with an awful feeling in my mouth and throat. Acid Reflux. Evil. I did some research and i found a site reccomending apples. I walked over to the fridge and grabbed a cup of applesauce. GONE instantly! none of the medicenes worked, but the applesauce worked! So if that ever happens to you EAT APPLES!  I remember lots of people on here complained about it so I figured i'd post! tell me how it works for you!

Hi, I want to run a battery operated item that takes its power directly from my 50cc mopeds 12v 4ah battery.  The item takes a minimum of 60w and can take upto 100w which I'm told, could drain the mopeds battery too much even when the engine is running at full speed charging the battery. Can I connect an adustable 6-24v step up inverter to the main bikes battery and use it to install and charge a second 12v bike battery purley to power the 60w to 100w electrical item while its in use, saving my main bikes battery to besure it won't run out of enough power to start the moped after Ive finnished using the electrical item? Im sorry but I not good at electonics and need your input to help guide me to run the item from my 50cc scooter/moped.

How do you mix oranges and tomatoes (if at all)? Any favorite ingredient combinations with these two? I'm working on cold salads, and these two seem to clash a lot when mixed with other ingredients. Thanks, everyone :)

Frist you need hydrochloric acid ,{you can find this in bathtroom cleaner's}. then you will need ethylene and glycol. mix these things togather and you get acid {and not the type of acidthat makes you high, the one that melt's metal}.

I would like to start a poll here.Dihydrogen Monoxide is a dangerous acid that can kill in a multitude of simple ways. It is all over schools and I would like to know:Do you think it should be banned?pleases leave your comment in the appropriate area below, and at the end of the week, I'll tell you what it is. (and if you do know what it is, please don't spoil it) I would like to see your respinse before you research.======ANSWER======Ready?..................IT'S WATER!Dihydrogen mononoxide - H2O , water.Some students at ATM University sent around a research study and a poll and around 80% of the student population voted to ban it. This is an interesting effect of how ingnorance can have a significant affect on life. Moral: DO THE RESEARCH!

Hi! I think i will see some PCB-Etchin in the future... So i will need an etchant. Aequous copper chloride was the choice i made since it is a regenerative etchant according to several sources. Now if i understood the chemistry right (Sorry... electrotechnician here), the reaction in theory only needs the oxygen from the peroxide (H2O2) and the hydrogen isnt used at all? Since i only have relatively weak peroxide, i plan on using a bubbler to introduce the oxygen to the copper-HCI-mix. This because i dont want to dilute the acid too much... Will that work? I know that if i use normal air (which has only around 20% oxygen in it) it will take some time... But would it work in the first place? I read somewhere that copper and muriatic acid dont really react in the first place... So if i also understood that right, it needs the oxygen present in the beginning to START reacting... So i think i may go with a contraption like: Plastic container with a bubbler installed (Pumps normal air) Add Muriatic acid to the container Add copper to the acid let it bubble till the copper is disolved Now i have a copper chloride-solution which i can regenerate by adding oxygen (By bubbler or H2O2)?  

I put a zinc coated nail into hydrochoric acid and the nail started to bubble.The bubbles came to the surface and when they popped a small cloud of some gas appeared and I was wondering what this gas was.I think to was hydrogen.

Does anybody know the relationship of borax and boric acid? Are they different forms of the same thing? Are they related at all? What if any do these have in relationships to flux to silver smithing. (I think the flux is Boric Acid but I am not sure.) I have a box of Borax, that I use to make liquid laundry soap. - I also used it to make crystal snow flakes - beautiful. Just curous.

HI there I have been told of a nasty stink bomb by mixing said acid with creosote-is this a viable proposition-if not does anyone have any safer/easier methods that will create a stink for a few hours-it is for the good of the nation. Thanks dudes-much appreciated .

Acidealhttp://www.ac1d.net/Just openned, hope someone like it!

Please help! I procured an electric wheelchair today (worn and torn, but in good shape.  It had 2 12v batteries, little smaller than an auto batt.  Didn't write down the amperage tho...The batteries were visually inspected for bowed or expanded sides, cracks, oxidation.  Everything appeared in order.  They have likely been sitting for some time.  Stupidly, I did not check electrolyte levels.  Oops.  Could easily be low.  I plugged the charger into the mainboard for 30 minutes, watching closely.  No issues, no overheating.  I left it for another 2 hours.  Again, no noticeable issues.  I tested the drive motors by controlling it around my driveway briefly. Power was very low.  It worked, but clearly lacked juice. I plugged the batts in for another 4 or 5 hours.  But after that time, I noticed a crackling/squealing (faint) sound.  As if pressure was escaping.  Bad news.  I had the chair chassis (and batts) in my workshop, and now I was afraid it may blow, contaminating everything.  The batteries feel warm. One more than the other. Beginning to panic, I threw on my goretex, respirator, goggles and gloves and carefully detached the battery cable from the main board.   I've never had one of this size blow, and have no idea what it could do.  very hesitantly, I rolled it into my garage, and closed the door.  Now I'm afraid to sleep, because I'm concerned about it. Is this Normal old battery behavior?  Could this be due to low electrolytes?  A small crack in the case?  Is there anything I can do besides wait?  I'm not real anxious to go too close for too long.  Is there anything I can do that would not increase hazard?  I'm about to throw a tarp over it, but is there a high flammability risk if a high amperage 12v were to blow? Guidance highly appreciated.  Thank you.

I would like to run a 6pcs 1W white led lights from a lead acid battery. A Single bulb input voltage is 3.2-3.6V & 350ma. I connected every 3 led's in Series (2 Groups) . Can I use 7810 IC or how can I do it. Sir Please send me a diagram . lead acid are in full-charge 14.5v. , in normal 12v, low 10v

Hey people so iv made my own brew its out of blackberrys and a little kiwi fruit with plenty of sugar water and yeast and its gone a little acidic, i can still taste alcohol and sugar still its just verry acidic, is there anything i can do to help bring the acidity down? thanks for anyones help.

Wondering if any one have come across a video showing the steps or know how to do this and how to extract H2O2 form the solution to make hydrogen peroxide like discribed from wikipedia article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_peroxide#Manufacture i know i just cut and pasted to make it easer the history  barium peroxide with nitric acid. An improved version of this process used hydrochloric acid, followed by sulfuric acid to precipitate the barium sulfate byproduct.  Sodium peroxide also makes H2O2 Na2O2 + 2 H2O → 2 NaOH + H2O2 those are hard to come by for DIY and thought maybe this would easier  inorganic processes were used, employing the electrolysis of an aqueous solution of sulfuric acid or acidic ammonium bisulfate (NH4HSO4), followed by hydrolysis of the peroxodisulfate ((SO4)2)2− that is formed. peroxodisulfate commonly referred to as the persulfate ion

Hello, my name is Taylor Love. Right now my school is having us do a science project where we need to use chemicals to propel a toy car across the room. sounds easy right? oh wait there's a catch. no combustion reactions, or explosions. :( got any ideas besides the usual baking soda and vinegar trick? any help would be great. if anyone knows how we could make a battery powered car go across the room, that'd be pretty cool too. but we have to make the battery from scratch.

For electric go karts, which one is better (for the money)? Lead acid is by far much much cheaper, but it is much much heavier. With a heavier battery you need a stronger frame, which weighs even more. With all of this weight you need an even stronger motor to push it all. With lithium you can build a lighter, cheaper frame, and power it with a weaker and cheaper motor and still obtain the same speeds. Lead Acid batteries take up about 1/3 the weight of a gokart with rider (1/3 being the driver, and the other third being chasis and motor and such). Reducing the weight by about a third (honestly, lithium, batteries weigh like nothing) could have huge performance improvements. So, does spending more money on batteries, and saving money on chasis and motor equal out to spending less on batteries and more on chasis and motor?

I am trying to make a small amount of silver fulminate for throw snaps. I am using a recipe from a very old book and it says I should add 70 minimums of concentrated nitric acid. Any ideas on what a modern measurement of a minimum would be, and where I could buy concentrated nitric acid?

Hello everyone, I just salvaged a small, 50AH FLA battery from a Tractor. The Battery has seen 2~3 calendar years. It was showing 11.38 Volts sitting on the shelf since 3 months so I thought it was good and I brought it for a bargain. I brought it home and connected it to my Intelligent charger which claims to support (Automatic)- Deep discharge Charging Boost Charging Absorbtion Charge Tricke Charge Equization Charge Automatic Charge Current and voltage regulation with Temperature compensated charging. The charger is currently showing "Boost charge" at about 12 Amperes. Problem is,the Charging voltage seems to Jump from 13.1v all the way to 14.2V (like under 10 sec) I hooked my DMM to the battery terminals which comfirmed the same. Sometimes the voltage also reaches 14.4v and the Charger goes into "Equalization Charge" but falls back to Boost charge at 13.5v or something odd. After 3 days for 'Cycling" I tried a eq charge twice. it seems to be improving. the Battery voltage on charge is still jumping across 13.6v to 14.2v. if I draw a load it goes back to 12.3v. admirably, I connected the Battery to our DC load yesterday night and it ran Led street lights (load 4a ) for 5 hours before I switched it off. 20AH is decent progress for 50ah old Battery right? do you think it's sulpahation that's causing voltage jump? I ran the Battery down to 11.5v yesterday. in the morning with sun up, the Battery is slowly progressing from 12.8v and above... very stably. the charger shows'absorbtion charge' at 8-9 amps. 8 amps are good for 50ah Battery right? else how do we test the ah of Battery?

I made a ball mill today. and i made some lead balls out of solder,but the solder contains flux. and i know that acids are not good to have in a ball mill because it can spontaneously ignite. so i was wondering if i could neutralize the acid with backing soda? or does it not matter that its there?

I acquired a nice set of drums from my nephew.  Dixon 5 drums and 5 cymbals.  2 cymbals are Sabian B8 with fingerprints all over. Some cleaned up with water but most are "etched?" in. What is the best cleaner to use without damage.

Hi My battery started to leak between bottom base and top cover (check pic). Just wondering anybody removed top cover? I know, you can remove top plate in order to add ionising water etc, but the actual top base? Thanks

Can we and how do we convert a normal lead acid battery into a deep cycle battery?

I have always been curious to know if it is possible to obtain hydrochloric acid (HCl) from chlorine-based bleach and acetic acid (vinegar). I found a lot of answers saying that it was impossible and dangerous because you wouldn't obtain HCl; instead, you would get chlorine gas, which is a very dangerous fume that can cost your life. However, I found an answer saying that it was possible to synthesize it, but not directly from bleach. First, you have to mix equal quantities of bleach and acetic acid to obtain hypochlorous acid (HClO) and then you have to add a transition metal oxide (iron oxide, copper oxide, etc.) to get HCl and oxygen gas.  Filled with curiosity and keeping in mind that safety is the priority, I decided to try it out by mixing equal portions of bleach (NaOCl) and acetic acid (C2H4O2), obtaining an aqueous solution of hypochlorous acid (HClO) and sodium acetate (C2H3NaO2).  NaClO + C2H4O2—> HClO + C2H3NaO2 Then, I added copper oxide (rusty pennies) since I know that copper by itself reacts very slowly with HCl, so I could leave it there until the copper oxide had completely reacted with the HClO (leaving clean pennies).  Little but numerous bubbles started to come out which I thought to be the oxygen gas leaving the hypochlorous acid. I waited there until there were no more bubbles coming out which meant that the reaction had finished. To prove that it was HCl, I decided to add Aluminium foil and see if it reacted accordingly. However, nothing happened, so I tried the whole process of mixing bleach and vinegar again but when I got to the part of adding the metal oxide, I did not add copper oxide. Instead, I left it outside in the sun to react since I know that ultraviolet radiation causes fast disproportionation, forming HCl and oxygen gas.   HClO —> HCl + O2 After all the bubbles had finished coming out, I added Aluminium foil to prove that it was HCl. However, noting happened, and again, I obtained the same product as the last time.  I immediately stated to think of possible products that I could have obtained and the reasons why my reaction hadn't worked properly. It was then when I remembered that in the very first reaction (the one of the vinegar and the bleach) I had obtained a side product that I had completely forgotten about; sodium acetate (C2H3NaO2). And I suspect that this side product could have affected the whole process.  And that is my question; was it really the sodium acetate that one that affected the experiment or could have it been something else?

Acid-punk, haha. I would love a pair of these (they don't exist, to my knowledge)

It seems every year we get ants in our kitchen. I don't know if its a seasonal thing or just coincidence.This time, however, we were able to effectively combat them with a home remedy. We mixed boric acid & sugar in water and set the concoction in a few little lids across the kitchen. We used roughly a 1:1:1 ratio, but it isn't an exact science. It's also not important if it doesn't dissolve completely.The idea behind this is that the boric acid will not kill the ants instentaneously. In fact, the sugar will lure ants to it. Also, this amount of boric acid isn't harmful, even to most pets. I don't have any pictures to do an instructable, so I thought I'd share it here. If someone else does this, feel free to do an instructable. (no credit needed)

Ok, so last 4th I made fireworks for a small- and I mean small- display, and it turned out fairly well. I only had two complaints- a) It wasn't that colorful, as I was only using pine and palm charcoal for color: reddish orange.b)it wasn't electrical, and took alot of visco, as I wanted everything to go off near-instantaneously. Well, I am going to solve problem b by getting e-matches off of Skylighter, but solving a is a little harder. Then, I read that certain copper compounds could be added to create a green to green-blue color in the flame. Well, I like that idea, but I didn't know where to get the copper compounds. So I kinda left it. UNTIL TODAY!I found this page on making copper (II) chloride. Well, it seemed straightforward enough, so I was going to try it. I was only wondering about two things:a) why on the description on this page about it include hydrogen peroxide, but the page does not even mention it?b)is this safe? I guess I should be outside for the hotplate part- I can't imagine boiling/simmering HCI, inside.c) is this even possible? Does it: 1)create a form of copper that could be used with success in pyrotechnics? 2)create copper chloride at all?Any answers are appreciated. Even if they don't directly pertain to the topic, POST ANYWAY! Makes it more interesting.

I am wanting to make some sulphuric acid because it is on of the most useful acids around and i have ran into a problem. after you burn sulphur to create sulphur dioxide you then need a catalyst to form sulphur trioxide and then dissolve in water. which catalysts could be used and could you just let the sulphur dioxide dissolve in hydrogen peroxide (so2-----so3------h20--------h2so4 or so2 ------ h202---------h2so4).if this would work how could you get a large enough concentration of hydrogen peroxide?

The craftsmanship that went into building this clock is really spectacular! Everything was designed by the artist, from the movement to the machining of components.The woodwork is oak and the brass imagery was acid-etched.

In the Golden Book of Chemistry, page 64, there're instructions for dissolving aluminum. The book states that HYDROGEN is released when aluminum strips are dissolved in hydrochloric acid and ALUMINUM CHLORIDE is formed. That's about all we get from the book concerning that particular experiment. Just wondering if this is correct, how to test it, what it should look like and what may we [the kids and myself] may do with it if it's actually aluminum chloride. It's a good book, but quite a bit of theory's lacking. Thanks all.

Hello! I'm just getting my own cab company started in my medium sized town, and to begin I'll be using my personal vehicle - thus, I'm using items I can remove so I don't get harrassed on my days off, such as magnetic decals and a magnetic top light. My question is this: Is there a way to convert a 12V, 96 LED light over to battery power? The toppers use a direct cable to a car charger port, but I hate having that cord just hanging out in my cab. It is tacky and unprofessional - at the same time, I very much do not want to punch holes in the top of my car and wire it to my dome light. I have found several rechargeable, compact 12V batteries online, but I've no idea how I'd hook them up. I'm smart enough to know that I can't just wire it directly to the device - the battery would last minutes at most. I think I'd need some kind of transformer, perhaps? Any suggestions? And here's the battery I would use: Voltage: 12 Lead Acid Type: General Purpose Capacity: .8AH Chemistry: Lead Acid Lead Acid Design: AGM Product Category: Sealed Lead Acid Terminal Type: WL, Wire Leads Weight: 0.8 lbs Length: 3.78 in Width: 0.98 in Height: 2.4 in

I have a 12 volt 7ah rechargeable lead-calcium battery, but no charger. i want to build a charger, but the diagrams ive found are for lead acid. does anyone have a good circuit for lead calcium battery chargers?

Have a look at this. Many of thes US "Electronic Recycling" centers are actually illegaly sending the electronics to china. There they are melted down with no saftey procautions with things like acid. This is a big deal and something needs to be done. Here

O_O Check out this giant pitcher plant from the Phillipines. You've heard of venus flytraps? Regular pitcher plants? Small fry compared to this behemoth. Nepenthes attenboroughii (named after Sir David Attenborough) is way bigger than those relatively tame plants, and dissolves its prey with "acid-like enzymes". From the article: "The plant is among the largest of all pitchers and is believed to be the largest meat-eating shrub, dissolving rats with acid-like enzymes.">Whimper<Call me cowardly, but I get the willies when we start discovering plants that can eat small rodents...who knows what else is out there in the as-yet-unexplored areas of the jungle...Link

Does anybody know what parts I'd need to make a 12v rechargeable battery pack for an upcoming road trip? I also need to know where I can find deep cycle sealed lead acid batteries for this project. I waited long enough to make a lithium ion pack, but now I changed my mind on the battery type to get 12v, and now I have no idea of what protections and electronic components I need for it. I'l post more info on available casing later, but I'll tell you now that it's like a small blue lego briefcase from when I was little. It's about the size of a texbook and I'd like to be able to put it in a small backpack to carry around school sometimes for my windows tablet. Update: I am available to buy any particular case, but wiring in a case can sometimes look bad, so I'd like it to store all wires internally and have a friendly look. Appearance was part of why I switched my plan from li-ion 18650s to lead acid. A block with printed volt and amp information looks better than a group of oddly sized cells. Also, no clocks.

Hi all! I am currently designing a simple electronic device which uses Arduino-software. It needs to be connected to a car (Lead-Acid) battery of 12V and be stepped down to 5V for my ATmega328 to be powered. I read that I must use a "Standard 7805 5V regulator" for this. My question is, will it be able to cope with the heat? Must I put a heat-sink on it and/or is the regulator even "big" enough for this? I figured that using two regulators in parallel, might halve the current and help prevent over-heating. (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/107) Another thing is, how could I go ahead and setup a small NiMH battery charger for this device which works like this: It runs of the car battery at all times and keeps the backup NiMH battery fully charged - as soon as the car battery gets disconnected, it switches over to the NiMH cells. (I will be using 4 of these for my backup-battery-pack http://www.sparkfun.com/products/335) See my attached schematic of what I have in mind, please tell me what you think about it. I have too little knowledge of electronics to solve this problem myself, but if you can point me in the right direction at least, I will try and figure it out from there. Thank you for your time!

I am currently building an RC hovercraft, I plan to use a single 12 volt 2.1 amp hr lead acid battery to feed both the lift fan for the skirt and the power motor for the drive. However the fan for the skirt is 12v 0.3 amps. How can I reduce the feed to the required amperage with out affecting the other feed from the same battery that will power the drive

If you soaked aluminum from a soda-pop can in vinegar or other acid to remove the paint, would it be possible to smith the metal using a small hammer into a barrel for a small jet engine, The engine I plan will produce thrust and use Butane,

How can I charge 12V Li-ion or lead acid batteries using a solar panel? I also wish to interface the three, i.e. the Arduino, the solar panel and the battery, together so that the Arduino is basically driven by the battery but as the battery discharges, the solar panel would charge it. What circuitry do I need? Also tell the specifications of the solar panel.

I have read about disolving zink or magnesium in acid and colecting it on a electrode as a salt threw elictrolisis. would this work with aluminum ? in new zealand it is hard to buy aluminium powder for thurmite so would like to make my own. i have already colected a usable amount of iron oxide from rusty steel using elictrolisis.

I recentaly took apart a digital camera hoping to be able to find a way to use the plain old flash when ever I wanted to to flash it at night at my friends. I acidently bridged and shocked my self owwie. But i still cant figure out how to use the flash once its out of the camera ofcourse with the circuit board and that still attchaed. Any help would be nice.

Hi Guys I have been given 5 x 12v 500mA Trickle chargers with large croc clips on the end.  I'm relatively new to electronics and am trying to work out if they could be used for anything interesting.  In simple terms, can I use these as regular power supplies for 12v projects?  Or are they only useful for charging 12v batteries.  If so, would that be just Lead Acid batteries, or lithium or nicad also? Thanks

Yes, the title is correct. This site has collected cover art for printings of War of the Worlds from the past 110 years from around the world. It's a fascinating collection of artistic interpretations of H. G. Wells' classic book. Some of the aliens are menacing while others are cute and cuddly or look like a Disney character on acid. One lazy artist even put the USS Enterprise on the cover. WTF? War of the Worlds of the Worldvia Core77

To all of you night bikers out there, do you power your lights with a battery pack of NiMh or Li-Ion battery packs, or do you use a lead-acid car battery? The weight of the car battery kind of turns me away from it, but I don't want to have to recharge my batteries every day. I'm looking to power LEDs and maybe halogens. Thanks!

Chemistry question here.  I wanted to play around with some nickel plating, and I started to follow a popular recipe that I saw on YouTube.  It started with Nickel II Oxide, placed in a malt vinegar for a week to create a solution of Nickel Acetate that you could then use as a bath to plate things with Nickel.  I purchased 100 grams of 99% grade Nickel II Oxide, and let it sit in 2L of vinegar for a long time.  After 2 weeks there's no hint of the emerald green Nickel Acetate.  So I purchased some glacial Acetic Acid, and added it to a liter of distilled water to make a 50% weight solution of Acetic Acid to make a stronger solution, and still a week later nothing green.  Solution is in a clean glass vessel.  A local chemist at work said it would be slow, but man, this is taking forever.  What am I doing wrong, or what could I do different? I know Ni Acetate can be achieved with pure nickel and electricity in vinegar, but I really want to try to convert the nickel oxide. 

Well, I finally got around to it, the ipod was destroyed based off of suggestions from this forum: https://www.instructables.com/community/Im-going-to-destroy-my-ipod-touch-how-should-I-d/ Sorry for the bad quality, I couldn't use my moms video camera.  I still am going to stick it in the microwave, in a fire, in acid, then sell on ebay :D  

Hi folks. I have a fairly old but still quite serviceable Thompson Euro Classic electric bike that runs on a 36v lead acid electric battery pack with a brushless motor. I've just been offered a 36v lithium ion bike battery that I would love to use but I'm not too sure if it would be the right choice, my main reason for the change is simply weight consideration, the current battery pack comprises of three 12v batteries and weighs in at a hefty 28lb the replacement weighs a little under 4lb, this would very obviously make quite a difference in the bikes 87lb overall weight. However weight isn't the only consideration, I would like to extend the range of my bike and with a little work and some suitable wiring and a couple of switches I could quite easily use the battery as a second power source for longer rides, I fitted a large plastic  tool box onto a rear carrier when I first bought the bike which would easily accommodate the battery or I could possibly even add an external carrier for it behind the seat, the current battery is good for around fifteen to twenty miles depending on how many hills I hit & how much I feel like pedalling, I hoping that an additional battery would double the range meaning I could rely on it to visit nearby towns without having to worry about finding somewhere I can give the battery a booster charge. My main worry is about damage to the motor, I know very little about electric bike motors and having read so many stories about these batteries suffering from overheating problems and even catching fire I am more than a little concerned I could damage to my only transport, I usually ride motorcycles but thanks to a couple of health issues I'm currently grounded so apart from walking which can be pretty limiting this bike is my only way to get around without spending a fortune on public transport I'm looking for advice from people who know about electric bikes and their motors who could give me some simple advice in layman's terms on how to proceed, please don't blind me with all sorts of technical jargon as it really wouldn't help, I'm not stupid it just isn't my field of expertise. Thanks in advance for your help. NG.

Hello, wasn't sure where to put this, and I didn't see a beauty forum.  Well. first of all. here is a formula for a lotion base that I tweaked. 8 oz distilled water 1 oz fresh aloe vera gel 1 oz floral water   1 tsp citric acid 2 oz glycerin 1 oz emulsifying wax 1 oz beeswax 1 oz shea butter 1 oz coconut oil 1 oz almond oil 1 oz avocado oil tsp essential oil 1/2 oz stearic acid I heard that 1 oz is about 2 Tbsp (tablespoons), but still not sure on this. It came out a bit thicker than I would like it.  I dunno if I should add more emulsifying wax, take out the beeswax, or both.  I need help making it less greasy feeling and a little thinner.  I made a batch I'm not sure what to do with.  I might just use it to repair those cases of dried out skin that appear around the winter season.  Any suggestions?

Hey guys, me again bugging ya's. I took some pictures today of some stuff I've put together and I want to know how I should wire it together to do something useful with it. Take a look at the pictures below, my questions are mostly in the yellow notes. I have another question though, I have this here 6v sealed lead acid battery and was wondering if it's possible to charge it using a current less than 6v?