If I electrolyze potassium nitrate mixed in water, then would it bubble out potassium and oxygen with an exothermic reaction to make nitric acid? From what I think I know I would be taking the potassium ion away from the nitrate ion so the nitrate would then combine with the water releasing oxygen to form nitric acid.

I've got some leftover battery fluid I used to try (unsuccessfully) to resurrect an old motorcycle battery. I was just going to neutralize it with water and baking soda and pour it down the drain, but I thought I'd ask for suggestions. What say you?

So me and papa have been working on farm equipment and an electric golf cart (and I had issues with my jeep cranking over, with a presumably bad battery), but my lack of knowledge of these batteries used in the machines is starting to get to me. Differentiating normal behavior from behavior indicating a bad battery or other problems is not really something I can do right now. What I know: Topped off voltage: 15 (ish) volts ( details?) Dead flat voltage: 10 volts Cold cranking amps: indication of maximum current a battery can deliver in the cold (details ?) Reserve minutes: equivalent to "AH" rating times conversion factor lead acids can take a beating and survive without a, less say, "exciting" failure mode What I don't know: How am I supposed to know what I don't know???? ;) What is a typical topped off voltage for a battery? Does the voltage sag from say 16V when charger is removed? What characteristics change as they age? I would guess increased leakage current/resistance, reduced current capability and reduced capacity (?) would you lose a bit of capacity real quick after cycling a deep cycle marine battery a few times? I know lithium ions do, every new phone I ever had has lost at least 10% of it's capacity in a few short months as it got "broken in." What about maximum charging current? Does ripple current matter?

I would like to start a poll here.Dihydrogen Monoxide is a dangerous acid that can kill in a multitude of simple ways. It is all over schools and I would like to know:Do you think it should be banned?pleases leave your comment in the appropriate area below, and at the end of the week, I'll tell you what it is. (and if you do know what it is, please don't spoil it) I would like to see your respinse before you research.======ANSWER======Ready?..................IT'S WATER!Dihydrogen mononoxide - H2O , water.Some students at ATM University sent around a research study and a poll and around 80% of the student population voted to ban it. This is an interesting effect of how ingnorance can have a significant affect on life. Moral: DO THE RESEARCH!

Frist you need hydrochloric acid ,{you can find this in bathtroom cleaner's}. then you will need ethylene and glycol. mix these things togather and you get acid {and not the type of acidthat makes you high, the one that melt's metal}.

I put a zinc coated nail into hydrochoric acid and the nail started to bubble.The bubbles came to the surface and when they popped a small cloud of some gas appeared and I was wondering what this gas was.I think to was hydrogen.

I'm just wondering, because there is a mix of sulfuric and nitric in the published process, if it can be done completely without nitric. If so, what other acids can be used?

Where do i buy citric acid?

WHERE WOULD I BUY CITRIC ACID?

I have a half gallon sitting around. Anything neat I can do with it?

I have read most instructables but I was not able to find sodium bisulphate, sodium metabisulphate etc. I check the web and find that Iron(ii)Sulphate -->(Heat) Iron(iii) oxide + sulphur dioxide + sulphur trioxide Can I dissolbe the sulphur dioxide and trioxide into water and form sulphuric acid? I have make a diagram, have a look!

Does anyone know what it means to desulfate a lead-acid battery? What does It do? Thanks :)

Hi, Thanks for stopping by. I do a lot of demo's for my family's kids to show how stuff works - it seems to work as they remember a lot, and they ask for more. I want to show how tough plant life is, and I have a range of acids to show how plants do not dissolve easily (to do with the cellulose) - does anyone know what would dissolve plant matter, please? Many thanks.

I have some very old bottles of muriatic/hydrochloric acid that I need to get to the dump. I was planning to pack them in a cardboard box with paper packed around them to keep them from toppling over. Is this a good plan? Is there anything I need to be worried about?

I have a dead  6  volt 4ah   lead acid battery and 12 v 190 amp  liquid  battery some one help me to bring it back to life 12 v battery i used with ups

Does anybody know the relationship of borax and boric acid? Are they different forms of the same thing? Are they related at all? What if any do these have in relationships to flux to silver smithing. (I think the flux is Boric Acid but I am not sure.) I have a box of Borax, that I use to make liquid laundry soap. - I also used it to make crystal snow flakes - beautiful. Just curous.

What's the chemical compound of the sharpie to make it acid resistance? Such as for PCB etching.

                                     I am using 12V 7.2Ah Amaron Quanta lead acid battery for an Emergency Lamp. I am using the following charging circuit which is attached with this post. In this charging circuit, 230 ac voltage is given as input to the 16-0-16 transformer. The output of transformer is filtered through rectifier diodes and then given as input to the LM317 of charging circuit. As of now transformer is needed to step down the ac input voltage. I need a charging circuit without a transformer. So kindly suggest me a circuit which consists of input rectification without a transformer. Please suggest it with a moderate cost. And also I need one more clarification. I am using "Constant Voltage" - trickle charging method to charge the battery. I am using a load of 2 lamps of total 110 W lamps which stand for around 50 minutes of full charged battery. The lamps will cut-off at 9.5-9.8 V. Then it takes around 16 hours to make the battery full charge. Could you please confirm me if I can charge the battery soon (min 6 hours). Is so at what rate I should use the load. Please help me in this situation.                                      I mention the website link which I am currently using for charger circuit.                                     http://www.circuitstoday.com/lead-acid-battery-charger In this circuit, I am using a 16-0-16 transformer to convert the line voltage of 230V ac and bridge rectifier diodes to convert it into dc. Please suggest me a circuit without the application of transformer to convert 230V ac to dc.                                         My mail id is tvibakar@gmail.com. Thanks, Thomas.

Hi, Thanks for stopping by. I do a lot of demo's for my family's kids to show how stuff works - it seems to work as they remember a lot, and they ask for more. I want to show how tough plant life is, and I have a range of acids to show how plants do not dissolve easily (to do with the cellulose) - does anyone know what would dissolve plant matter, please? Many thanks.

After dipping paper in vinegar which I needed to do for an art project, I would now like to prevent it from deteriorating. How can I neutralize the paper so it lasts,

What should i do its just leaking gas (I assume its hydrogen) should i keep chargeing till this stops or what? thanks for helping

I am just wondering wether it is possible to etch pcbs with sulfiric acid because I heard it can dissolve copper. But i'm wondering if it will just dissolve the copper or if the entire pcb will melt. ~josh1324

I have two 6-volt ~4.5 AH batteries, and I'm not sure how to charge them. I know that overcharging and voltage regulation can be an issue. They have markings on the outside that say "standby voltage ( voltage)", "intermettent use voltage (voltage)", and I was wondering what voltage I use to charge them, how I know when they're fully charged, etc. Advice is welcome. Thanks!

I want a battery that is capable of delivering 12V for a minimum period of an hour. My circuit will take 5-10A. And what loader should I use with it?

I have two lead acid batteries rated 6v 4.5 AH (is AH ampere? or ampere/hour) boast/equalize 7.2-7.5v float 6.75-6.9v max charge current 1.35A both my batteries are identical the question now is.. i want to build a charger for it and something to lower is current so some feature i want is  1) rechargeable by a simple plug in adapter (i have a 12v 4A ac-dc adapter) 2) output of usb voltage and current (optional adjustable current and voltage) 3)led indicates 4)optional: a switch to power usb devices directly from the adapter/bypass battery to extend battery life 5)around 5 usb out puts? i want to build this project cos i have the won batteries which are in good conditions but not being used in anyway.. i hope someone can help me with the technical specs..especially on the circuit diagram   have access to an electrical components shop but it does not sell chips so i need to salvage them

Is there any way to make or buy a 12v battery charge another 12v battery?

Could somebody please help me? I cant find a way too charge 2 SLA's at the same time and run 2 seperate devices and make it so I can power one device one one battery and another device powered by the other battery. There some some writing on the battery casing  But I don't really understand but it reads: ______Constant Voltage Charge_______ I        Voltage Regulation                                I I           Cycle Use           14.4 - 14.7V            I I        Standby use           13 .15 - 13.8V        I I    Max charging current                  1.2A       I _________________________________ Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

HI there I have been told of a nasty stink bomb by mixing said acid with creosote-is this a viable proposition-if not does anyone have any safer/easier methods that will create a stink for a few hours-it is for the good of the nation. Thanks dudes-much appreciated .

I recently mixed sugar and potassium nitrate to make a rocket. i ignited the mix and after it was done burning it left a molten pool of what i assume is potassium nitrate. i pored hydrochloric acid on the solidified pool and i produced a large amount of heat and was creating a brown-red gas. the gas was heavier than air because it sank to the bottom. can anyone tell me what this gas was?

For electric go karts, which one is better (for the money)? Lead acid is by far much much cheaper, but it is much much heavier. With a heavier battery you need a stronger frame, which weighs even more. With all of this weight you need an even stronger motor to push it all. With lithium you can build a lighter, cheaper frame, and power it with a weaker and cheaper motor and still obtain the same speeds. Lead Acid batteries take up about 1/3 the weight of a gokart with rider (1/3 being the driver, and the other third being chasis and motor and such). Reducing the weight by about a third (honestly, lithium, batteries weigh like nothing) could have huge performance improvements. So, does spending more money on batteries, and saving money on chasis and motor equal out to spending less on batteries and more on chasis and motor?

 If I have the pH and volume of 2 solutions, and the target pH of a combination of them, how do I calculate how much I need?

In my enameling work, I sometimes use a mild homemade pickling solution to remove firescale (cupric oxide) from copper. The pickle is a saturated solution of white vinegar and kosher salt, kept hot in a Crock Pot. After heating the copper pieces in a kiln, a layer of cupric oxide forms on the surface, which is then dissolved in the salt/vinegar solution. After a while, the solution turns a lovely blue color from the dissolved copper. If I forget to put the lid on the pot, eventually the solution evaporates, leaving pretty blue crystals that look a bit like copper sulfate. So, what have I got here? I don't want to just dump it due to the copper content. I'd like to figure out something to do with it, but first I need to know what it is. I'm thinking it might make a good electroplating solution, but that's just a guess.

I have a 1996 Volvo 850 GTL Wagon.  We drive it infrequently, averaging 2 trips per week.  If it isn't driven in 10 - 14 days, the battery will invariably be dead, and I'll need to jump start it, or charge it with a trickle charger overnight.   At first, I thought the battery was worn out even though it was wasn't quite to the end of its warranty period.  I replaced it, but this didn't solve the problem. Next, I thought our typically short trips weren't allowing the battery to fully charge, so I specifically changed my driving habits and used the trickle charger to top up the battery on a regular basis.  After doing this, the battery would measure in the 12.3 to 12.6 V range, but after two weeks without driving would be again be dead, measuring in the 11 V or lower range.  Even after needing a jump-start, the battery will start the car again after just 5 minutes of driving. I've measured the steady-state current draw from the battery after the car has been off for several minutes to several hours using both a clamp-on style ammeter (<0.1 amps; lowest the clamp-on could measure) and an inline current meter between the negative terminal and the negative terminal's clamp (40 mA). 40 mA seems reasonable from what I can find online, and shouldn't be enough to drain the battery over 2 weeks.   So, I have an 11-month old battery that won't hold a charge for two weeks, and I'm fairly confident there's no abnormal current draws from the car.  Should I replace the battery again and hope for the best?  Is there any truth (and references!) to claims that a lead-acid battery once drained too low can never recover? Updated with new information for the various suggestions below: After fully charging the battery, I disconnected it for 48 hours.  It remained at 12.6 volts over the entire period, and when I reconnected it, easily started the car. I don't suspect the alternator:  When the car is running, 5-6 amps flows into the battery and the voltage on the battery is 13.6 V; and if I drive the car once or twice a week, the battery never dies.  I do suspect something with the keyless remote.  I stopped using my keyless remote years ago because I found it too bulky to carry around -- I lock and unlock the car using the key in the door.  Christy still uses her keyless remote.  Recently, she was the last one to drive the car before we went out of town for 10 days.  When we got back, I was positive the battery would be dead, but it started the car without a problem.  So, I ran the experiment of leaving the car unlocked, locked with the key, and locked with the keyless remote.  After a few days, the battery would be dead when locked with they key, but not when locked with the keyless remote or left unlocked.  Frustratingly, I've checked the current draw in all three configurations, and it's 40 mA in each case (and stays that way for several minutes).  For now, I have a solution that keeps the battery from dying if I don't regularly drive the car, but I'd still like to understand what is going on. Updated with solution 2010-09-02 At the car's next regular service, the shop recognized the problem.  On cars of this type and age, the crimp on the positive terminal can fail turning the positive wire to the battery into a resistor rather than a wire.  This is diagnosed by measuring the charging voltage on the battery and giggling the wire (it will jump around, and not remain at the required 13.8 V), and by noticing that the wire itself is hot.  Volvo recently released a fix for this, and previously the shop had to remove the entire wiring harness, at great expense, to fix it.  So, my battery was never getting fully charged, and I've selected the best answer from among the suggestions that my measured charging voltage was too low.   

Hey guys, I want to bug you's again. Instead of trying to ask about different things in one of my other topics, I wanted to start a new one. I went to the local dump today, and one of the first things I spotted was Three, not just one, booster packs. You know, the ones you can charge up and boost a car with, and some of them have inverters built into them so you can run small appliances. Well I snapped all three of them up, thinking that at the very least, the lead acid batteries inside them would be OODLES of help towards making a full scale wind generator (I plan to build one or two full size wind generators with car alternators, whenever the good weather comes and I can work outside). Well, I got them home and cracked them all open. Turns out that only one battery is good to me (pictures below). The two identical units have 350 watt inverters built into them (I've removed one so far), but the batteries were bulging and the sides were split open, although not leaking, which was good, less mess to clean up. The third booster pack I opened appeared to have been already attempted at being opened. 4 of the 6 screws had been drilled out (which is beyond me as far as why they would do it? They were only phillips screws), but maybe they weren't successful? It had a couple wounds of electrical tape around it to hold it together. Needless to say, whatever cutting tool they used, cut into the battery itself (they cut too far in, dumbasses...), and so my main question here is, is the battery safe to charge, and use? I took some macro's of the damage and some of the cut marks seemed to have gone far enough in to cut into what appears to be a white plastic lining inside, as the white crud on the sides of the battery feels more like burnt on plastic from a cutting disc than it does acid that oozed out and dried up, so the damage doesn't appear to be that bad. What's the worst that could happen anyways? Also, the battery has about almost 8v left in it, and another question is, is that too low for a 12v battery? Like has it been discharged too far? Also, aside from the battery. I found this plate with a transformer, giant capacitor, and a pcb that looks like it was some kind of voltage converter board (I would take a picture but I've since cut a few things off of it and I won't even bother now) The transformer puts out 25v and you can see in the pictures what the capacitor is rated for (I would like to know what I can use this capacitor for, or if I should save it and wait till I can make a bank of capacitors for a tesla coil project or something) What I can't figure out, is what is this square device I found that was plugged into one of the output leads of the transformer? It only had two leads coming off of it, one is marked + and one -, the other two terminals don't have marking on it. No model numbers or anything. Does anyone know what this is? Also, last in my pictures is one of the inverter boards I pulled out of one of the power-packs. I cut the second outlet off and wrapped the first one in tape just to make sure I dont' shock the hell out of myself. I have my truck battery sitting inside over the winter, and with a good 12.71v, I thought it would be the perfect battery to try the inverter on. I brushed the wires onto the top terminals of the battery and although I could hear a bit of sparking, I saw nothing and the indicator light on the power switch didn't light. The volt meter also showed nothing from the 120v outlet. So I tried shoving the wires into the bolt sockets that the truck's wires bolt into, and I quite literally startled myself as it emitted a really loud BEEEEEEEEEEP, I nearly jumped through the roof. The indicator light turns on when I flick the switch to I and I can hear the transformer making a little buzzing sound. However, when I measured the AC voltage from the outlet, I didn't write down the voltage, but it was around 3v? Not even quite that much. I'm not sure if the inverter is screwed or if it has something to do with the switching nature of power inverters causing my multi-meter to not read it right? One other thing I will note is that I had to cut the power switch leads to remove it from the case, then re-solder the switch. The switch has 2 black wires and one red, I tried my best to make sure that each black wire went to the terminal on the switch it came from, and I assume if I didn't hook the switch up right, it wouldn't have lighted up or anything right?? I don't want to try plugging something into it for fear that it will blow up in my face, at least not until I know it's functioning like it should be, however I doubt these power packs were throwing out for failure of the inverter... *On the side note* I apologize for these (sometimes) rediculously long posts or just mundane questions. However, I like to be thoughrough with my questions so that there are very little questions asked, about my question, in the first place. As it seems to waste a lot of time asking for details about this or that problem, when you could just throughly explain it all in one go. This is what I try to do, so there are no blank spaces for you guys to try and "assume" where you don't know the proper information. Secondly, I've really appreciated the help, and sometimes just the helpful and creative ideas I hear from others, makes me feel good, like there's actually some people on here that know what they're doing and I can trust their answers (Nacho, kiteman, caitlyn's dad, 1010100100, all of you regulars, have been great help to me) *End of girlish requiem*

I am trying to make naruto style headbands out of stainless steel and i want to know if hydrochloric acid will melt through wax so i can apply the hydrochloric acid specifically to where i want it. i am planning to use about 1/16 inch thick stainless and have the acid eat through about half of it. if it does eat through wax is there any substance that it wont eat through? thank you for all of your help!

I have one that's been dead for several months. It's 12v, 4AH. It's sealed lead-acid rechargable battery, any ideas on how to revive it? Also, how would you charge this kind of battery?

I woke up really early one morning with an awful feeling in my mouth and throat. Acid Reflux. Evil. I did some research and i found a site reccomending apples. I walked over to the fridge and grabbed a cup of applesauce. GONE instantly! none of the medicenes worked, but the applesauce worked! So if that ever happens to you EAT APPLES!  I remember lots of people on here complained about it so I figured i'd post! tell me how it works for you!

Regarding charging a sealed lead acid battery, can i just apply a 12v wall wart at an amperage around a tenth of the rated Ah? i.e. 12v 700mA for a 7Ah battery (for what, 10hours?) in context i'm looking at making some computer speakers (2.1) portable with a battery such as: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YUASA-fire-intruder-alarm-battery-12v-7Ah-lead-acid_W0QQitemZ290422260055QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_AudioElectronicsVideo_Video_TelevisionSetTopBoxes?hash=item439e840157i know these may not be suitable for deep cycle charging/draining, does this use count? and will i be damaging it with 12V constant even if i take off charge once i have worked out the time to charge it for? (dividing the amp-hours by the amp rating of the wall charger gives the number of hours right?) any help possible would be great, i want to get this project rolling and of course ill post it up here!?

I was thinking of creating a battery that could charge with heat. In small gadgets we keep in pockets, these batteries could charge off our body heat. It's just something I'm interested about.

I figured it would be cool to quickly electroplate some stuff. Since I was lazy, I only used what I had on hand [block of zinc, vinegar, muriatic (hydrochloric) acid)]. The zinc ingot was taking too long to dissolve in the vinegar, so I added about 30 mL of hydrochloric acid. A couple hours later, I was electroplating fine. After two weeks of normal zinc chloride electroplating, the acid suddenly took on a nasty dull brown/yellow amber shade and a ton of white bubbles formed around the zinc (still in the acid). Can anyone tell me what happened?

Is it possible to make HCl with Bleach? As in could you use any conversions (Toxic and dangerous should be included for informational purposes) to mix the bleach with some substace leading to it? Because bleach is Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl) and it does have a Cl.

Theres a old car battery sitting in my neighbours yard probably not doing any good to the environment. So I thought I would do a favour to my neighbour and the environment by taking it in to be recycled. where might I do that?

I have wanted to etch my own PCBs but didn't have the money. Now I have got a little bit of money and wonderd where the cheapest place was to get etching materails in New Zealand (preferabially in christchurch). Can anyone help?

I want to etch a PCB, but it is rather cold where I live. I had settled on the HCl/Peroxide mix, but I could use something else if need be. I wouldn't be worried about it, except I get the impression it's a good idea to carry out the reaction outside, where it is cold right now. If working outside in the cold is a no-go, is there any etchant that is "safe" (I understand that safety is relative, I mean along the lines not immediately gassing me) to use indoors with ventilation? If so, how much ventilation is needed? Are we talking an open window, or an industrial fume extractor? Also, I wasn't sure which category and channel would be the best, so if a mod or somebody sees this and has a better classification, go ahead and change it. Sorry for making this such a long question; I'd just like to be able to use my circuit board before I die ;). Thanks, dedgerton

Hi, I want to run a battery operated item that takes its power directly from my 50cc mopeds 12v 4ah battery.  The item takes a minimum of 60w and can take upto 100w which I'm told, could drain the mopeds battery too much even when the engine is running at full speed charging the battery. Can I connect an adustable 6-24v step up inverter to the main bikes battery and use it to install and charge a second 12v bike battery purley to power the 60w to 100w electrical item while its in use, saving my main bikes battery to besure it won't run out of enough power to start the moped after Ive finnished using the electrical item? Im sorry but I not good at electonics and need your input to help guide me to run the item from my 50cc scooter/moped.

Recently I came across a brand of water called blk, named for the black appearance of the water caused by the addition of fulvic acid. The manufacterer's website states that it is "exceptionally pure artesian spring water" with the addition of the company's blend of fulvic and humic acid. Now, we all know that the PH of pure water is 7, but if we add acid, wouldn't that make it more acidic? Apparently not, seeing as the manufacturer's website also states that the PH of blk water is 9, making blk water more basic than regular water. I would think the fulvic/humic acid's addition would make the PH acidic, not basic. Can anyone explain this?

Is there any problem caused by taking an acid absorber when you are on a prescription for acid blockers ( IE taking tums while on prevacid )