You crazy Linux users!

I can't believe what some people will do to try to invent their own OS. Why can't you just stick to UNIX?!?!

Posted by V-Man737 8 years ago


Star Spangled Banner On Keytar

It's me playing my Roland AX-Synth Keyboard. Watch and comment. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0wB5NLsFM8

Posted by Oblivitus 8 years ago


Difference between all the X,Y and Z axes?

Hello, I am new here and only registered to get access to a CNC build which I really like. Now m questions is, as I look at so many of the builds, what defines the axis? Some use Z to go up and down, others mentioned it being the Y-axis, even saw a few saying X. Is it up to the builder or up to the software? Kind regards, Red

Posted by redmarien 11 months ago


If you have one tool to use to make a wooden sword what would it be?????????????????????/

Like a axe, knife,sandpaper, others. can be machine use.

Posted by josefu0 9 years ago


Some Random Things I Made

Just some random things I made that I haven't posted. Let me know if you want me to post any of them. 1. Bridge 2. Crane 3. Another pic 4. Double bullet (REALLY good with drummerian's x-bow) 5. Flail 6. Catapult 7. Double sided battle ax 8. Guitar Hero stand 9. Another pic

Posted by koolkidd 10 years ago


Making a hatchet.

I am going to make a hatchet for a school project. It only has to be functional for a couple of uses, maybe 10, but I don't have access to a block of iron or steel. What I'm wondering is if I can make an aluminum head with a steel tip. My dad says that it would bend, but I'm not so sure. Also, if you know of any links to instructions or metal suppliers in California/USA please post them.  Thank You!!!

Posted by Xthinker 6 years ago


Robot that rebuilds itself after kicked apart

As this video of a modular robot re-assembling itself after being kicked apart by its creators at the University of Pennsylvania shows, the day is soon approaching when even smashing apart our rebellious robot slaves with hammers and axes will not prevent each individually severed body part from crawling towards you across the room, a murderous and autonomous agent of servo-controlled musculature.

Posted by laminterious 10 years ago


Will The glass from my CRT Tv Make me sick???

I broke apart my Tv set and literally smashed the screen with an axe.  Why?  Because there was nothing good on.  But anywho.....I heard there is lead and other bad stuff in the glass so i am a little worried that i breathed some of that in.   Also, i love the look of the glass and would love to use it in some art projects.  Is it safe to work with?   Thank u.

Posted by valmont325 6 years ago


Update on the layered metal weapons/props

Hello to everyone who took the time to read this update/list. So I have not forgotten about my promise to upload the Solidworks files and cutting plans. However that will be taking a backseat to finals until summer break. I will however go ahead and list off the items finished, in progress, on hold, or currently only in Solidworks form. Finished -6in Axe: 3lb head on an oak clad 1/4in steel flat bar about 20in long total -3in Tomahawk/Axe: 1.25lb head on a para cord wrapped 1/4in steel flat bar about 20in long total -27in BoneSplitter: 3.2lb aluminium reinforced steel construction. -18in BoneCracker: 2lb aluminium reinforced steel construction. -18in All steel BoneCracker: 3.5lb steel reinforced steel construction. More square handle and better center of balance than previous version In progress -10in Bearded Axe: 3.25lb head. To be mounted on oak clad 1/4in steel flat bar handles 18in, and 30in long. -10in blade Pugio: Model made of mild steel for practice and training. Needs to have bevels, and fullers ground plus handle and guard mounted. -8in blade Pugio: Model made of mild steel for practice and training. Needs to have concave edges, bevels, and fullers ground plus and guard mounted. On hold -14in Blade tester: Simple test bed modeled after BoneSplitter to test viability of various band saw blades(Metal and Wood cutting) for use as cutting edge for mild steel blade carriers. On hold due to the band saw blades being too hard to drill through. Only existing as Solidworks files --27in Revised BoneSplitter: 4.5lb Aluminium reinforced steel construction. Better center of mass and more square handle than MY           previous version. --37in blade Bastard sword: Aluminium reinforced steel construction. Should be very close in terms of center of balance and stiffness when compared to its hardened steel companions.  --20in blade Stacked steel Gladius: Twin riveted steel support plates with detoothed metal cutting bands saw blade used for striking edges.  --blade Hispaniensis Gladius: Single piece of metal for the blade. --blade Cinquedea: Single piece of metal for blade. Multi fuller blade. --8in blade Pugio curved: Same as other 8in Pugio except for the convex curved dagger tip --14in blade Spear from Fullmetal Alchemist: May upload the variant of this in which the "wings" are separate pieces of metal. --3.25in square Warhammer: 8.5lb head Assembled from 13 1/4in steel plates pinned together. Front is covered in 3/8in spikes poking through a steel striking face to prevent separation of the plates. Back end is a 4in spike. --5.25 square Warhammer: 16.25lb head Assembled from 21 1/4in steel plates pinned together. Front is covered in 3/8in spikes poking through a steel striking face to prevent separation of the plates. Back end is a 4in spike. --Straight edged War Axe: 7lb head Inspired by Ironclad Industries' Riftclaw. Made from 7 1/4in steel plates pinned together. I am aware that the riveted and pinned construction of these items makes them inherently less durable and less corrosion resistant than single piece construction. However I am a college student who is working with mostly scraps and whatever has to be purchased. Since mild steel thick enough to carve the Warhammers or War Axe is not common scrap material around the college's machine shop the only way to economically create them is to use stacked plate construction. As for the BoneSplitter, BoneCracker, and Bastard sword the stacked plate construction is used to both reduce the weight of the item and stiffen it at the same time.  

Posted by tytiger33 3 years ago


Amazing 3-axis LED orb

What's better than LEDs? Spinning LEDs! Laserpointer forums member FireMyLaser has decided that spinning LEDs is so much fun that he built a contraption that spins on 3 axes and creates some pretty insane effects. He also posted lots of build photos, but for now he's exceeded his photobucket bandwidth. Hopefully they'll be up again soon. NOTE: this is a forum post. Forums are where users can post links to other cool things happening in the DIY space and as such instructions aren't always available. Thanks! LED Orb 2.0 via MAKE

Posted by fungus amungus 8 years ago


Instructables not family safe any more

I was disappointed to see the repeating ad for the AXE Undie Run. I was browsing through Instructables with my 10 year old son and the ad kept appearing at the top of the page. I actually DO care what goes into my child's mind.This is not the kind of content I want my son being exposed to yet. Come on? Women taking their clothes off? Headlines that say "Sexy"? What does this have to do with instructables? This just does not fit in with the otherwise wholesome, educational nature of the site. This means I cannot trust the content on this website to be safe for my kids any longer. If you cannot maintain higher standards than that, then I am forced to boycott this website for my family's viewing.

Posted by capacitated 8 years ago


Making some Eggman goggles need advice

I'm working on making my own eggman goggles and I have two twistable caps from my Axe can and some elastic braided band and I seem to have trouble on how to make some using my elastic braiding band without making a slot and then glueing it or fasten it the band. the braided band I have is 3/4" so how I can do this if I could try glue or if I have to a little slot for the band to loop through. I really need some good tips on how to use my braided elastic band for my project. If I have to make a slot so that the band can go through what I can use to make it so it never comes off?.

Posted by SuperScourge 5 years ago


CNC protype service. Laser cutting and 5 axis milling.

Hello. I offer cnc prototype service.Serial work is also possible. Worldwide shipping to any country. Material: any ferrous and nonferrous metals,plastics and wood. Number of axes cnc milling center: 5 axis Laser cutting any ferrous and nonferrous metals, plastics and wood. (Maximum thickness  20 mm for steel.) Wire EDM cnc machine processing. Finishing: painting, polishing, electroplating and other. Detail size : any Minimal order: 1 piece. Format for drawing: Any digital format. Better SolidWorks or AutoCad. Shipping: Worldwide (EMS,DHL or other postal service) Payment: any Please contact: cnc5axiscut@gmail.com

Posted by cnc5axiscut 4 years ago


Random Knex Challenge 6- Medieval Weaponry!

Random Knex Challenge 6- Medieval Weaponry! WIN A PATCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is now closed. Oh yes! That is right! The Medieval period, a time of blood, gore, and best of all, WEAPONS! Yes, this round is simple, you have to make a type of medieval weapon, there are many many choices of things to choose from in this challenge, including: Trebuchets, catapults, throwing axes, lances, club, flail, war hammer, long sword, ect... Here are some rules for this challenge: Must be based on a real medieval weapon Must have been made AFTER the contest started Must be 100% Knex (String and tape allowed) Must be entered by 7th Febuary 2010 List of entrants for this round: Killer~safecracker Knexfreak95 Good luck! And happy building!

Posted by Hiyadudez 8 years ago


My Entry for the Gift Exchange

I have deiced to send Norbert and (one mystery item) to a good home... My skills include: Sewing, creative knot work... cakes and baking What I'd like to make for someone: (Pre-made cuddly squid) miniature Trebuchet... and something else when I put my mind to it (if this is not ok... I will re-edit this post) I'd be willing to make this size gift package for someone (choose all that apply): (S,M,L)... Small/Medium I'd be willing to receive a smaller or larger size gift package from someone than the one I make for someone else: Yes What I like: Anything thats usefull in the out doors... gizmo's and gadgets & things erlating to the Scouts. Knives and axes... What I don't like: nothing to high tech... Certainly not a Knex fan (or how ever you spell it... that plastic stuff that clips together) I absolutely can't have: (due to allergies, pets, etc) Type of thing I'd love to receive:I would LOVE a working fire piston but i think the thrill of just getting something suprising would be ace! Just so long as the item is usefull... :D Would you be willing to ship to an address outside your own country? yeah sure Confirm that are at least 18 years old or, if not, that you have the approval of a parent or guardian: I am well over the age of 18 Any problems let me know... pics added of what i shall be sending (pluss a mystery gift of whomevers choosing)

Posted by Biggsy 8 years ago


Seeking Advice on parts and next steps to make computer controlled toy

I'd like a fun project for my 6 year old but one that would still keep me interested. What we've come up with is this :  A device that we could fit into a stuffed animal's head that would spin its head in different /axes depending on the sounds it hears or at random intervals.  What specific parts and approaches would you recommend? I've done some electronic design decades ago but am rusty and am not that familiar with microcontrollers but am a fluent web programmer. I'm looking for advice on what parts I'd need , especially with regard to the micro controller (my initial thought was a STAMP 2) and motor assembly.   Below are the features we'd like to incorporate.  Features:  -small enough to fit inside a 4 inch round stuffed animal's head. -battery powered -One or more sound sensors that would enable the motor to respond (ie, turn toward)  a sound. -The ability to play and record sounds. -variable speed motor and preferably one that would be able to turn the head on more than one axis (sideways and up and down) -At least 10 programmable actions. A sample action would be to spin the animal's head toward a sound.  -nice to have: ability to plug into a usb port and download new programs and sounds from our website Recommended parts list? Design software or websites? anything would be helpful to get us going in the right direction

Posted by jverks 6 years ago


X Y Zach humbly asks for your help...

Hey there Brochachos,            Ok, having just dug in on my first project, I'm more than overwhelmed by the sheer volume of 'stuffs' I need to learn to accomplish my goal.  Howevever, having done a substantial amount of reading, I believe I've got a fairly focused question that can hopefully pull a concise answer out of the beautiful woodwork of this community.  Onward... I'm trying to interface a gantry style xy table that uses some softpots as positions sensors for the x and y axes.  I want to send this analog signal wirelessly to two servo motors that will respond to this analog signal accurately, with minimal latency, and no jitter. As a fairly new egg in the DIY self world, I stubbornly cling to Arduino for comfort and the xbee modules seemed like a good fit, but the workaround to transmit an analog signal seemed troublesome and the servos always seem to develop a Parkinson's syndrome of sorts. (at least with the builds I saw). The question...   What transmitter/receiver is both extremely amateur friendly, with regards to setup, and can also get the signal (sans Internet connection)  at least 100ft to the receiver where it gracefully manifests itself on the servos as smooth motion.  If you don't have a definite answer, pointing me in the right direction of relevant reading is also greatly appreciated.  If there is anything I've left out, just ask.  Thanks in advance, I love you, but not like that... -Z

Posted by Zachary D 6 years ago


DIY Jib Crane Kit

It's been years since I've posted here, but I have an idea that might benefit those who like to make short films on an indie budget.  I've had a design for an all-aluminum and stainless DIY jib crane kit that I could sell for under $180. It would have full ball-bearing movement and axes that can be locked. The kit would come with all of the hardware and parts except for the tripod and the aluminum rails, which every home depot and lowes sell (1"x1"x6-10' box aluminum). I would supply templates for the holes.  I'm in college now and without a machine shop, but I know of a shop that could mill the parts out for enough money to allow me to offer the kit for a nominal fee.  Keep in mind that there really is not a kit or crane out there that can lift 20-30lbs (and be completely waterproof) for under $350. Most cranes are even more than that.  Before I put the details of the plan on paper, I need to know if there's a market for something like this, because the initial investment is a few hundred dollars and the shop doesn't do small runs. Parts would be 100% CNC'd and anodized for a nominal fee.  My questions: -Where and who should I market this to? -What forums would have an audience that this would appeal to? Any help is appreciated, I'm not so much into videography as I am into making photography equipment. 

Posted by John Smith 4 years ago


10 Pranks from Instructables HQ

It’s not yet the middle of March, which means plenty of time for planning and executing the perfect April Fools Day prank. (Also, there’s a contest you should enter if you’ve got a great prank to share.) HQ has been batting around prank ideas for a solid month, and Mikeasaurus is about to ruin a lifetime of polite Canadian good karma with an expanding list of prank ideas. We’ll be attempting to wire my brake lights to a hidden car horn later this month, and Mikeasaurus has been surreptitiously stealing trash from around the office to gently prank the trash collectors at his house. (Making Ghandi look scary was just the tip of the iceberg.) Most of our office pranks are harmless, and harmlessness is one of the goals in our prank contest. A quick surprise, easy cleanup, and no bodily harm are the guiding principles for sustaining a prank war. Rapid escalation leads to eventual hurt feelings or a hospital trip, neither of which are useful for next year’s April Fools shenanigans. As of March 12th, the prank war is still cold at Instructables headquarters. Randofo (a man who knows his way around a prank or two) and Mikeasaurus (who is no stranger to pranks himself) are taunting one another with various super-secret pranks that will be deployed on April 1st. Pranking Mr. Saurus from afar was an office pastime while he was relegated to the frozen tundra of urban Vancouver last year. Skirting the fine line between hilarious electronics-based pranks and the very real possibility of an eagle-eyed x-ray operator reporting us to the authorities prevented anything too terrible from happening to him in Canada. But now he’s within arm’s reach of his prank nemesis. Here's a quick rundown of past pranks perpetrated by Instructables staff at HQ: The Prank Box - randofo "It is very funny to watch people ponder the implications of the device, reluctantly turn it on, and then stress out when they cannot turn it off. It is even funnier to get panicked emails from your friend in Canada after you mail it to him without any explanation, and he decides to ignore the directions on the box and turn it on." Watch the video Car Horn Prank Box - randofo "A beloved coworker is returning from Canada soon and in his honor I have created the car horn prank box. Basically, when the red button is pressed, and an LED blinks indicating that there is thirty seconds in which to hide the box somewhere dark. Once the thirty seconds expire, the next time that the box sense light, the car horn honks very loudly. The amount of potential mischief that this device can produce makes it a perfect welcome back gift." Watch the video Mystery Beeping Prank - randofo The Mystery Beeping Prank is a device hidden in a hollowed out book that beeps intermittently at different frequencies. I made this because I am surrounded by a lot of incredibly creative people who have a penchant for pranking one another, and this seemed like the most subtly annoying thing that I could think of. Watch the video LieDar - FAT lab Sometimes you just want to pretend to be driving around in a driverless car. You're just a rented Fiat, a few hours of 3D printing, and a pair of big brass ball bearings from pranking an entire city with technological delight, then confusion, then concern. Watch the video Air Horn Office Chair Prank - mikeasaurus The office is a great place to prank your coworkers. Interrupt the white noise of typing keyboards and the hum of the photocopier with a blaring klaxon hidden under someone's office chair. Watch the video Magnetic Axe Prank - mikeasaurus Good with metal? Try hacking an axe in half, adding some powerful magnets, and pretending to put an axe through the hood of a car, into someone's nice stainless fridge, or anything else ferrous and nefarious. Phony Fliers with Rip-Off Tabs - mikeasaurus Surprise and delight the local nerd community with these phony fliers. References to Star Trek, Star Wars, Blade Runner, and Half-Life abound. Make your own, set up a dummy email address, and watch the weird responses roll in. WC White Box of Doom - MC Langer Not technically from HQ, but MC Langer spent enough time at HQ to feel like part of the family. His "Water Closet White Box of Doom" is hilarious, ingenious, and unlikely to cause permanent harm. He also tests it on himself, which is awesome. (It's a jar of water in a first aid kit that tips the water onto someone if they trigger the toilet seat switch. It also includes a Bazinga scroll that pops out to let the victim know that they've been the victim of a classic jape.) Watch the video How To Put A Stapler In Jello - kazmataz Because Jim shouldn't have all the fun. (And Dwight shouldn't get all the jello.) Screaming Trash Bin Prank - Jayefuu Electronic trash cans seemed like such a good idea. At first. Then they stopped working reliably. Then they started screaming bloody murder thanks to Jayefuu. Watch the video

Posted by wilgubeast 4 years ago


Thoughts on a good Bush Craft/Survival fixed blade knife.

Been looking at many bush craft and survival knives lately and looking to get a couple. I want to have a smaller one that can easily hang from my neck and a larger one for the belt. I know the Mora knives are vary popular but i would like to have both knives full tang. So far i'm kind of stuck on the Gerber Bear Grylls para cord knife for the smaller and the Schrade SCHF9 for the larger. I like the para cord knife since you'll have a good bit of cord one the knife if needed. It can also be changed out for the color of your choice. Not to mention using a better weave on the par cord i can pack more onto the handle and create a more comfortable handle. Of course the price is pretty good too. The SCHF9 is great as a large knife. Seams like a great knife that can do some batoning and chopping. Price is good for it's sizes. I love Schrade blades and designs but there handles are always lacking. But it looks like i can easily remove the existing handle and create my own. Are there any other options i should be looking at here? What knives do you guys use out in the bush? Any major issues with the 2 i've been looking at? I'd like to keep the cost of each under $50 if possible. May be able to stretch to $60 for the larger knife. Trying to get a 72 hour pack together and trying to keep it affordable. I'll be looking into small ax/hatchet next.

Posted by mpilchfamily 4 years ago


So it's almost the college holidays, and i'm looking for something to do....

So, obviously, i'll have very little to do in the hols, so i've decided that i'll make my new forge (more and wider-spread heat) throw an anvil together, be it a railroad track anvil or whatever, and get busy. I've got a biiig project i'm going to sit on for now (instructable on the way, but there's LOADS more work to do before i'll consider posting.) but after that's done, i'll make something and apply what i've learned to some new stuff I thinks maybe a kerambit, perhaps...and a dagger, some stillettoes....arrowheads.....i'll work something out But what about the opinions of the esteemed community of instructables? think i should do this? maybe i'll get to selling some of these some day, tho i'll need more practice, first, but i think that as a hobby, it makes me happy SHOPPING LIST: Anvil thing Bits for forge Steel (5160's good) Grinding Wheels (starting to wear down a bit now. these wheels've taken everything i can throw at them, but they're shrinking steadily....maybe i might buy me a belt grinder, hey, anyone know what the average price for an average grinder is?) Air Blower That isn't Crap--i axed the last one to hell-- Any ideas? fan in a box, perhaps? both hairdryers i've used were crap. both ended up in pieces. Actually, i like the idea of making a kerambit, seems a nice, sort of challenging thing that'll look good, but, like most of this post, that's a digression. Werl, when i do makes these stuffs, i'll either post an instructable (prob. not for the forge. there;s enough forge instructables) but almost certainly for the rest of the stuff V

Posted by Vendigroth 11 years ago


Any other engineers have trouble getting used to 123D design?

I'm wondering if anyone else who has experience with professional CAD software has tried 123D and finds it difficult to use. I have ~7 years of experience using Solidworks in a mechanical engineering and robotics context. I recently tried to pick up 123D for use with my home 3D printer and find it absolutely infuriating to use. It feels like working with oven mitts on. But, I see screenshots of very complex models people have made all over the place. So, I'm not sure if: - I'm spoiled from the use of "professional" software and need to lower my expectations for free consumer software. For example, I'm very used to full control over creating reference geometry like axes and planes, and creating everything from 2D sketches that are then extruded/revolved/swept (as opposed to 3D shape primitives) and having direct control over all of the dimensions the entire time. In 123D I find it difficult to do something as simple as create two rectangular prisms and put them a fixed distance from each other, or create a rectangular prism and then put a hole in it a certain distance from one edge. - If this is just a difference between Autodesk and Dassault software - e.g. if I was used to using Autodesk Inventor instead of Solidworks, maybe I'd have an easier time picking up 123D. - If I'm just being lazy/impatient, and need to watch more tutorial videos and give myself more time to pick up the software. So, just curious if anyone else has a similar experience coming from using professional software (as opposed to a maker/hobbyist who had never used 3D CAD at all before).

Posted by Ben Finio 4 years ago


Maker Fair Detroit Vacation

Well, I'm back from my vacation. It was awesome. First, I hit Maker Fair Detroit. I saw some pretty cool things. They include (in no particular order): Life Size Mouse Trap, Diet Coke and Mentos, a bunch of people riding wacky bikes, Iron Pour, races with a whole bunch of different vehicles, all-around crazy people, and the instructables booth. The instructables booth was the best, of course. Taking several trips there, I met frenzy, zazenergy, wilgubeast, and ostomesto (he was working a shift at the booth). Everyone was so nice (they gave me sugru, a patch, and stickers), and it was awesome to see them and meet them. At the instructables booth they had the most useless machine, the mohawk helmet, and the robot-pirate flag. Also, at the first day of Maker Fair, I wore my robot shirt with a camera in the robot's eye (instructable hopefully coming soon). It was funny seeing Frenzy so worried. Right away he asked, "What happened to his eye?!?". It's o.k. frenzy and robot lovers, I was careful when I did the procedure. I was hoping to get some good shots of the Fair, but alas, I had never used the camera shirt before so most of the pictures were of the sky (but I guess clouds are pretty too). I also got an arduino starter kit, so expect some cool arduino instructables coming in a couple of months (I say months because as of right now, it makes no sense). The rest of my vacation was fun: I stopped by Bad Axe (say it a couple of times quickly and you'll realize how cool this town name is) to get a hat, went fishing, and found out I won in the Fitness Challenge while on my iPod in an ice cream shop. Well, that's about it. 

Posted by splazem 7 years ago


heliostat and sun tracker basic program

In the late 1980s, I designed, built and programmed a computer-controlled heliostat. Its mirror reflected sunlight into my living-room, making it much brighter. It worked excellently with almost no attention for many years, until a neighbour's tree grew and blocked sunlight from reaching the mirror. The computer was a Commodore VIC 20, which was old even then, and had only 4.5 kilobytes of memory. The program I wrote, in Commodore BASIC, fitted into that space and handled all the control functions. It even included a few "bells and whistles". For example, at night-time the mirror was automatically parked face downward to reduce the buildup of dust. That particular program would work only on a VIC, and I haven't seen any of those for many years. However, I have recently taken the astronomical and trigonometrical parts of the program and made them into a new program which I'll append below. It calculates the position of the sun in the sky, as azimuth (true compass bearing) and angle of elevation, as seen from anywhere on the earth at any time on any date. It also calculates the required orientation of a mirror if it is to reflect sunlight in any desired direction. With the addition of some code to enable the computer to control motors, this could become the software for a computerized sun-tracker or heliostat. I'll append two versions of the program. The first is in QBasic, and contains quite a lot of explanatory comments. The second version is in a very generic BASIC, and has been tested on many implementations of the language. It even has line numbers! Personally, I prefer the QBasic version. The coding is more elegant. However, the generic version is likely to be useful to more people. It's public-domain. Use it for any purpose, even commercially. Enjoy! dow ' SunAlign.BAS (Version for QBasic and similar dialects) ' Calculates position of sun in sky, as azimuth (compass bearing ' measured clockwise from True North) and angle of elevation, as ' seen from any place on earth, on any date and any time. ' Also calculates alignment of a heliostat mirror. ' David Williams ' P.O. Box 48512 ' 3605 Lakeshore Blvd. West ' Toronto, Ontario. M8W 4Y6 ' Canada ' Initially dated 2007 Jul 07 ' This version 2008 Jan 13 ' All angles in radians except in i/o routines DegIn and DegOut DECLARE SUB C2P (X, Y, Z, AZ, EL) DECLARE SUB P2C (AZ, EL, X, Y, Z) DECLARE FUNCTION Ang (X, Y) DECLARE SUB DegIn (P$, X) DECLARE SUB DegOut (P$, X) CONST PY = 3.1415926536# ' "PI" not assignable in some BASICs CONST DR = 180 / PY ' degree / radian factor W = 2 * PY / 365 ' earth's mean orbital angular speed in radians/day WR = PY / 12' earth's speed of rotation relative to sun (radians/hour) C = -23.45 / DR ' reverse angle of earth's axial tilt in radians ST = SIN(C) ' sine of reverse tilt CT = COS(C) ' cosine of reverse tilt E2 = 2 * .0167 ' twice earth's orbital eccentricity SN = 10 * W ' 10 days from December solstice to New Year (Jan 1) SP = 12 * W ' 12 days from December solstice to perihelion CLS Menu: PRINT "1. Calculate sun's position" PRINT "2. Calculate mirror orientation" PRINT "3. Calculate both" PRINT "4. Quit program" PRINT PRINT "Which? (1 - 4)"; DO S% = VAL(INKEY$) LOOP UNTIL S% >= 1 AND S% <= 4 PRINT S% IF S% = 4 THEN END ' Note: For brevity, no error checks on user inputs PRINT PRINT "Use negative numbers for directions opposite to those shown." PRINT DegIn "Observer's latitude (degrees North)", LT DegIn "Observer's longitude (degrees East)", LG INPUT "Time Zone (+/- hours from GMT/UT)"; TZN INPUT "Time (HH,MM) (24-hr format)"; HR, MIN INPUT "Date (M#,D#)"; Mth%, Day% PRINT CL = PY / 2 - LT ' co-latitude D = INT(30.6 * ((Mth% + 9) MOD 12) + 58.5 + Day%) MOD 365 ' day of year (D = 0 on Jan 1) A = W * D + SN ' orbit angle since solstice at mean speed B = A + E2 * SIN(A - SP) ' angle with correction for eccentricity C = (A - ATN(TAN(B) / CT)) / PY SL = PY * (C - INT(C + .5))' solar longitude relative to mean position C = ST * COS(B) DC = ATN(C / SQR(1 - C * C)) ' solar declination (latitude) ' arcsine of C. ASN not directly available in QBasic LD = (HR - TZN + MIN / 60) * WR + SL + LG ' longitude difference CALL P2C(LD, DC, sX, sY, sZ) ' polar axis (perpend'r to azimuth plane) CALL C2P(sY, sZ, sX, sAZ, sEL) ' horizontal axis CALL P2C(sAZ - CL, sEL, sY, sZ, sX) ' rotate by co-latitude IF sZ < 0 THEN BEEP PRINT "Sun Below Horizon" PRINT GOTO NewCalc END IF IF S% <> 2 THEN ' calculate and display sun's position CALL C2P(sX, sY, sZ, sAZ, sEL) ' vertical axis DegOut "Sun's azimuth: ", sAZ DegOut "Sun's elevation: ", sEL PRINT END IF IF S% > 1 THEN ' calculate and display mirror orientation PRINT "For target direction of light reflected from mirror:" DegIn "Azimuth of target direction (degrees)", tAZ DegIn "Elevation of target direction (degrees)", tEL PRINT CALL P2C(tAZ, tEL, tX, tY, tZ) ' target vector X,Y,Z CALL C2P(sX + tX, sY + tY, sZ + tZ, mAZ, mEL) ' angle bisection by vector addition PRINT "Mirror aim direction (perpendicular to surface):" DegOut "Azimuth: ", mAZ DegOut "Elevation: ", mEL PRINT END IF NewCalc: PRINT PRINT "New Calculation" PRINT GOTO Menu FUNCTION Ang (X, Y) ' calculates angle from positive X axis to vector to (X,Y) SELECT CASE SGN(X) CASE 1: Ang = ATN(Y / X) CASE -1: Ang = ATN(Y / X) + PY CASE ELSE: Ang = SGN(Y) * PY / 2 END SELECT END FUNCTION SUB C2P (X, Y, Z, AZ, EL) ' Cartesian to Polar. Convert from X,Y,Z to AZ,EL EL = Ang(SQR(X * X + Y * Y), Z) A = Ang(Y, X) IF A < PY THEN AZ = A + PY ELSE AZ = A - PY END SUB SUB DegIn (P$, X) ' Input angle in degrees and convert to radians PRINT P$; INPUT N X = N / DR END SUB SUB DegOut (P$, X) ' converts radians to degrees, rounds to nearest 0.1, and prints S$ = LTRIM$(STR$(INT(10 * ABS(X * DR) + .5))) IF S$ = "3600" THEN S$ = "0" IF LEN(S$) = 1 THEN S$ = "0" + S$ IF X < 0 THEN IF VAL(S$) THEN S$ = "-" + S$ PRINT P$; LEFT$(S$, LEN(S$) - 1); "."; RIGHT$(S$, 1); " degrees" END SUB SUB P2C (AZ, EL, X, Y, Z) ' Polar to Cartesian. Convert from AZ,EL to X,Y,Z Z = SIN(EL) C = -COS(EL) X = C * SIN(AZ) Y = C * COS(AZ) END SUB 100 REM SunAlign.BAS (Generic BASIC version) 110 REM Calculates position of sun in sky, as azimuth (compass bearing 120 REM measured clockwise from True North) and angle of elevation, as 130 REM seen from any place on earth, on any date and any time. 140 REM Also calculates alignment of a heliostat mirror. 150 REM David Williams 160 REM P.O. Box 48512 170 REM 3605 Lakeshore Blvd. West 180 REM Toronto, Ontario. M8W 4Y6 190 REM Canada 200 REM Original date 2007 Jul 07. This version 2007 Oct 07 210 REM Note: For brevity, no error checks on user inputs 220 CLS 230 PRINT "Use negative numbers for opposite directions." 240 INPUT "Observer's latitude (degrees North)"; LT 250 INPUT "Observer's longitude (degrees East)"; LG 260 INPUT "Date (M#,D#)"; Mth, Day 270 INPUT "Time (HH,MM) (24-hr format)"; HR, MIN 280 INPUT "Time Zone (+/- hours from GMT/UT)"; TZN 290 PY = 4 * ATN(1): REM "PI" not assignable in some BASICs 300 DR = 180 / PY: REM degree/radian factor 310 W = 2 * PY / 365: REM earth's mean orbital speed in radians/day 320 C = -23.45 / DR: REM reverse angle of axial tilt in radians 330 ST = SIN(C): REM sine of reverse tilt 340 CT = COS(C): REM cosine of reverse tilt 350 E2 = 2 * .0167: REM twice earth's orbital eccentricity 360 SP = 12 * W: REM 12 days from December solstice to perihelion 370 D = INT(30.6 * ((Mth + 9) MOD 12) + 58.5 + Day) MOD 365 380 A = W * (D + 10): REM Solstice 10 days before Jan 1 390 B = A + E2 * SIN(A - SP) 400 C = (A - ATN(TAN(B) / CT)) / PY 410 ET = 720 * (C - INT(C + .5)): REM equation of time 420 REM in 720 minutes, earth rotates PI radians relative to sun 430 C = ST * COS(B) 440 EL = ATN(C / SQR(1 - C * C)) * DR: REM solar declination 450 AZ = 15 * (HR - TZN) + (MIN + ET) / 4 + LG: REM longitude diff 460 GOSUB 800 470 R = SQR(Y * Y + Z * Z) 480 AX = Y: AY = Z: GOSUB 710 490 A = AA + (90 - LT) / DR 500 Y = R * COS(A) 510 Z = R * SIN(A) 520 GOSUB 740 530 PRINT : REM AZ & EL are now sun's azimuth & elevation in degrees 540 IF EL < 0 THEN PRINT "Sun Below Horizon": END 550 R = AZ: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Sun's azimuth: "; R; " degrees" 560 R = EL: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Sun's elevation: "; R; " degrees" 570 PRINT 580 INPUT "Calculate heliostat mirror alignment (y/n)"; K$ 590 IF K$ = "N" OR K$ = "n" THEN END 600 SX = X: SY = Y: SZ = Z 610 PRINT 620 INPUT "Azimuth of target direction (degrees)"; AZ 630 INPUT "Elevation of target direction (degrees)"; EL 640 GOSUB 800 650 X = X + SX: Y = Y + SY: Z = Z + SZ: GOSUB 740 660 PRINT : REM AZ & EL are now aim azimuth & elevation in degrees 670 PRINT "Mirror aim direction (perpendicular to surface):" 680 R = AZ: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Azimuth: "; R; " degrees" 690 R = EL: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Elevation: "; R; " degrees" 700 END 710 IF AX = 0 THEN AA = SGN(AY) * PY / 2: RETURN 720 AA = ATN(AY / AX): IF AX < 0 THEN AA = AA + PY 730 RETURN 740 AX = SQR(X * X + Y * Y): AY = Z: GOSUB 710 750 EL = AA * DR 760 AX = Y: AY = X: GOSUB 710 770 AZ = AA * DR 780 IF AZ < 180 THEN AZ = AZ + 180 ELSE AZ = AZ - 180 790 RETURN 800 E = EL / DR 810 A = AZ / DR 820 Z = SIN(E) 830 C = 0 - COS(E): REM Won't work without "0" in Liberty Basic 840 X = C * SIN(A) 850 Y = C * COS(A) 860 RETURN 870 R = INT(10 * R + .5): IF R = 3600 THEN R = 0 880 R = R / 10 890 RETURN

Posted by david williams 10 years ago


Converted 1990 Ninja ZX-6 Electric Motorcycle

Hi, I'm cross posting this here as I know this is a community of folks who might appreciate something like this project.  I've recently converted a sportbike to electric power.  It was a grad school project but since I'm in the Active Army, I have to PCS (move) to Izmir, Turkey for one year.  Since I don't want to let it sit for a year in my garage, I'm selling it on ebay.  Please check it out and spread the word to anyone interested. It would make a great bike for a college student to ride around campus or the local town.  Or a great starter bike for someone beginning to learn how to ride motorcycles as there's no distracting engine noise or clutch work.  I live in Kansas City, Missouri but have a flexible schedule so I can work with different shipping methods that you use. here's the link and some features: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawasaki-Ninja-ZX-6-All-Electric-plug-in-Motorcycle_W0QQitemZ300369654215QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_motorcycles?hash=item45ef6d31c7 Specifications: -Top Speed: about 52 mph as geared depending on windspeed and terrain -Range: about 15 miles depending on terrain and riding habits -Acceleration: adequate for traffic -Charge time: 5-6 hours -Motor: 72volt GE series wound DC -Batteries: 6 x 12volt 35ah Power Sonic AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) -Controller: Alltrax AXE-7245 (Programmable and with data logging capability via USB cable) -Charger: 72volt 8amp, plug comes out of gas cap and can be plugged in any standard outlet -Contactor: Kilovac EV200 by Tycho Electric -Main Fuse: 400 amp -Battery cage and motor mount: welded angle and tube steel -Weight: 422 lbs  (47 lbs lighter than the factory weight) -72v to 12v converter to run factory wiring harness Features:   -PakTrakr display to show total pack voltage and individual battery voltages -Motor controller can log data via USB cable for battery pack voltage, Motor current, Battery current and throttle position (the graph picture was made by importing the data to microsoft excel) -Factory key switch enables contactor -Neutral dash light wired to show contactor status -Manual switch enables controller -Sidestand switch linked to "interrupt" relay in contactor circuit -Street legal, registered and insured in Missouri thanks -chris

Posted by kcsimcoe 8 years ago


What's in your money collection?

I want to know what is in your money collection. Here is what in mine. I had just started getting serious about it though. Tell me what you think.Paper Money=- 5 Yuan from China- 5 Dollars from Cayman Islands- 5 Dollars from Canada- 2 Dollars from Canada- 1000 Dollar bill from 1922 from Germany. I got it for a dollar at a local coin store.- 1 1935 blue seal dollar billCoins=Pennies- A bunch of pennies from 1979 and earlier just because they're old. A 1979, a 1978, a 1977, a 1976, a 1975, a 1974, a 1973 with a 7 stamped into it, a 1972, a 1970, a 1969, a 1967, a 1975, 1964, a 1961, a 1960.- 10 Wheat pennies, 3 1943 steel pennies all in very good condition, a 1952, a 1941, a 1950, a 1919, a 1925, a 1910, and a 1929.- a few souviner pennies. A Hulk, a Trump Plaza, a Hershey Park, and a Jungle Cruise.- A 1952 wheat penny PROOF.- 3 indian head pennies. They are all in a suprisingly (wowful) condition. A 1903, an 1888, and a 1899.Nickels- 4 old nickels, a 1946 (So close to being a war nickel) a 1969, and a 1985 (I know, you find alot of those), and an uncirculated 1964.- A bunch of different nickels from a series: 5 of the nickels with the boat on the back (2004), 2 of the nickels with the Shaking hands and crossing axes on the back (2004), 5 Indian Head/Bison nickels (2005), 2 Indian Head/Ocean view nickels (2005), and 3 jefferson head nickels with the original back (2006). Dimes2 mercury dimes. 1 from 1923, in poor condition, and a 1941 in a fine or very fine condition.Quarters- 1 Bicentennial- 2 silver quarters, one from 1953, and one from 1941.Dollars- 11 Sacajewaea dollars.- 5 Susan B. Anthony- 1 Morgan Dollar- 2 Eisenhower dollars. One is 1972, and the other is a 1976 - 1 1961 Franklin dollar, in UNCIRCULATED condition!Bicentenial.Half Dollars- 3 original half dollars, a 1971, a 1972, and a 1973 Commemoratives- 1 2006 5th anniversery of 911 with gold, and parts of ground zero.Foreign- 25 cents from Bermuda- 3 25 cents from Cayman Islands- 1 5 cents from Cayman Islands- 2 1 dollars from Jamaica- 1 20 dollars from Jamaica- 1 1 Franc from France- 1 Unknown amount from an Unknown Country.- 1 50 Pfennigs from Germany.- 17 1 cents from Canada.- 1 1 cent from The Republic of Trinidad and Tobago.- 1 1 cent from BermudaPlease note I have not been to all of these countries.Other=- 1 Roooofus the Roller Roo token. (I don't know where I got it).- 1 1972 proof set with a penny, a nickel, a dime, a quarter, and a half dollar. - 1 Showboat Token. Worth 1 dollar- 1 carwash token9/6/06 Edit: As some of you might see, I had updated a few. There are lots more that either my dad gave me, or I bought from the coin store.

Posted by Flumpkins 10 years ago


Story of a spelling mistake

Body { background: rgb(245,245,245); } *.container { width: 500.0px; text-align: center; margin: auto; } *.copyright { margin-top: 50.0px; font-size: 12.0px; text-transform: uppercase; } *.copyright a { text-decoration: none; padding: 5.0px; background: rgb(192,57,43); color: rgb(255,255,255); } *.copyright a:hover { background: transparent; color: rgb(192,57,43); } *.button { height: 50.0px; line-height: 50.0px; padding-right: 30.0px; padding-left: 30.0px; background-color: rgb(41,127,184); color: rgb(255,255,255); text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 1.0px; margin-bottom: 15.0px; } * { } * { } * { } * { } * { } * { } *.button span { left: 0; width: 50.0px; } * { } * { } * { } * { } *.button:hover span, *.button.active span { background-color: rgb(0,102,26); } *.button:active { margin-top: 2.0px; margin-bottom: 13.0px; } * { } * { } * { } *.button.orange { background: rgb(255,127,0); } *.button.purple { background: rgb(142,68,173); } *.button.turquoise { background: rgb(26,188,156); } *.button.red { background: rgb(231,76,60); } ul.a { list-style-type: circle; } ul.b { list-style-type: square; } ol.c { list-style-type: upper-roman; } ol.d { list-style-type: lower-alpha; } Hello all, today I have a tale of why you should proofread your Instructables... Or just laugh at the annoyed faces of grammar pendants as you watch Steven fry shame them.  Now recently I made an instructable, it was named and "Breathe new life into an old computer" and being the grammar illiterate person I am, combined with the fact the article was written out of pure boredom, I misspelled the article title in two different places. Instead of "Breathe new life into an old computer" I wrote "Breath of new life into a old computer". The reason is, after writing the article, I felt the original title of "A breath of new life into a old computer" didn't really sound good. So I axed the A and called it a day (Rhyme not intended). It was late and without another thought I hit publish and eagerly awaited its appearance on the new ibles page. Nothing happened for 20 minutes, so I went to bed without a second thought. Maybe the database server just crashed or something :P The next day, after a long day of school, I eagerly sit down at my computer and watch youtube... After enjoying at least a few hours of Pwediepie screaming at disfigured goats and Linus (attempting) to colour a $500 motherboard I decide to check my Instructables page. A few clicks to my current Instructables page and WOAH. I see the featured banner draped proudly across the front of my project. My eyes dart down, desperately looking for a view counter and then they find it, "10 thousand views!" I cry. My mouse cursor automatically clicks, my world in slow motion, I scroll down... 3 comments greet me. I just sit there, mouth wide open. A crazy thought slams right into my face, my mouse cursor waddles over to the corner of the screen and suddenly the homepage sits there, my project stands in its little box, like an expensive toy, on display for all to see. My mind is racing, In disbelief. I look around, a hidden camera maybe, I shout upstairs to my brother "good prank". But all I hear is a surprised moan, "what?!" he shouts.  It took me a few hours for anything, whether it be ME being featured, or the chicken I had for dinner, to sink in. But eventually it did and I took a some rotting fleshes advice, Keep Calm and Carrion. The last thing on my mind at this point was spell checking, no one in the comments had pointed anything out, and well... I couldn't see anything wrong. It's like that thing when you're looking for something in that horrific mess you call a fridge, after spending what seems like hours looking at every little detail you still can't find the butter. Then your girl friend, Wife or Mum comes along and after giving you a lecture on tidiness they find that one thing you're looking for instantly... Anyway, I decide in the spirit of things I will go and enjoy some facebook, I take a trip to the Instructables facebook page and see my article, AWESOME! I open up the comments section and... Correcting my grammar Correcting more of my grammar I'm not an English professor Correcting my grammar Correcting my grammar Someone who doesn't understand that: 1. I am not American, 2. Americans are smart and awesome people Correcting my grammar Someone who uses such bad grammar that I can't even figure out what they are saying   Now at the sight of this I quickly ran back to my article and changed the picture and title, on facebook... It doesn't update. I have learned my lesson, proofread and double check your article, before you post!  What can you take away from this? What I have learnt:  Theres no 'Be Nice' policy on the internet Proofread your work! Admins are humans and might not pick up on a spelling mistake Write every ible like its the best one you have ever made, because you never know, your ible might be featured down the road and you will just wish that you double checked that title and fixed that little spelling mistake. Also dont ever use facebook because :( it dosnt update live :P lol The Facebook Post My Instructables

Posted by EvolvedAwesome 3 years ago


From My Brother: Halloween Advice

It's getting close to Halloween, so very strange things are about to happen, therefore please use these helpful hints this and every year. 1. When it appears that you have killed the monster, NEVER check to see if it's really dead. 2. Never read a book of demon summoning aloud, even as a joke. 3. Do not search the basement, especially if the power has gone out. 4. If your children speak to you in Latin or any other language which they should not know, shoot them immediately. It will save you a lot of grief in the long run. However, it will probably take several rounds to kill them, so be prepared. This also applies to kids who speak with somebody else's voice. 5. When you have the benefit of numbers, NEVER pair off and go alone. 6. As a general rule, don't solve puzzles that open portals to Hell. 7. Never stand in, on, or above a grave, tomb, or crypt. This would apply to any other house of the dead as well. 8. If you're searching for something which caused a loud noise and find out that it's just the cat, GET OUT! 9. If appliances start operating by themselves, do not check for short circuits; just get out. 10. Do not take ANYTHING from the dead. 11. If you find a town which looks deserted, there's probably a good reason for it. Don't stop and look around. 12. Don't fool with recombinant DNA technology unless you're sure you know what you're doing. 13. If you're running from the monster, expect to trip or fall down at least twice, more if you are female. Also note that, despite the fact that you are running and the monster is merely shambling along, it's still moving fast enough to catch up with you. 14. If your companions suddenly begin to exhibit uncharacteristic behavior such as hissing, fascination for blood, glowing eyes, increasing hairiness, and so on, kill them immediately. 15. Stay away from certain geographical locations, some of which are listed here: Amityville, Elm Street, Transylvania, anywhere in Texas where chainsaws are sold, the Bermuda Triangle, or any small town in Maine. 16. If your car runs out of gas at night on a lonely road, do not go to the nearby deserted-looking house to phone for help. If you think that it is strange you ran out of gas because you thought you had most of a tank, shoot yourself instead. You are going to die anyway, and most likely be eaten. 17. Beware of strangers bearing tools. For example: chainsaws, staple guns, hedge trimmers, electric carving knives, combines, lawn mowers, butane torches, soldering irons, band saws, or any devices made from deceased companions. 18. If you find that your house is built upon a cemetery, now is the time to move in with the in-laws. This also applies to houses that had previous inhabitants who went mad or committed suicide or died in some horrible fashion, or had inhabitants who performed satanic practices. 19. Dress appropriately. When investigating a noise downstairs in an old house, women should not wear a flimsy negligee. And carry a flashlight, not a candle. 20. Do not mention the names of demons around open flames, as these can flare suddenly. Be especially careful of fireplaces in this regard. 21. Do not go looking for witches in the Maryland countryside. 22. Machine-guns can't kill EVERYTHING. 23. If you happen to come upon a giant web or nest, DO NOT look for what made it. 24. If you find that your puppet is not how you left it the night before, find the axe. If you own a fireplace, that sometimes works better. 25. Don't wear extremely loose clothing, as it will catch on something as you are running away. 26. Do not chase after the big monster trying to camcord it, you WILL die. 27. Do not pet a foaming dog. 28. BELIEVE ALL URBAN LEGENDS. 29. If you have to pair up, do not go with the snobby rich guy, he will be one of the first to die. 30. If you find a secret doorway, don't go exploring it, chances are something happened in there. 31. Not all clowns are happy. 32. If the housekeeper never smiles and/or seems to hate you, do them and yourself a favor and leave. 33. Just because you come in peace doesn't mean they do. 34. Learn to scream AND run, it will save your life. 35. Never give hitch-hikers a ride. 36. If the crazy old man says leave, take his advice; what do you think made him crazy? 37. Unless your neighbor is a grave keeper or a gardener, carrying a shovel is not a good sign. HAVE A HAPPY HALLOWEEN!!!!

Posted by royalestel 10 years ago


Game Design Team looking for help &quot;Guardian&quot;

Unity 3D: Game Engine Currently Seeking: Programmers, Animators, GUI Art, Concept Artist, 3D Modelers, Writers, Composers, and People with great ideas. All work Copyright © 2012 by Boundless Game Studios Written by Casey Williams Version # 1.00 Wednesday, January 11, 2012 Overall Game Information: “Guardian” is a third person view and first person view adventure game that will allow the player to play as a hero on a quest to find the truth of the evils in his land . But, with the help of his guardian that watches over him from above. The guardian will fuse into your weapon and guide you through the hero’s world and conquer evil. On the way you will discover special fragments of fallen stars in all different sorts of ways that can alter your blade, skills, and powers. Our game will run on Mac and PC computers. The game will be free to play. Plot: A Valenian boy named Swen meets his Guardian (Bounda) that will need his help to find a fallen Guardian who has gone corrupt and has fused with his own partner from Valenia to destroy both Swen’s and Bounda’s worlds. So, the myth of the Crescents are true to Swen’s people. They believe that everyone has someone watching over them from the moon. Guardians or Crescents are not supposed to leave their world and travel down to Valenia or fuse body/soul/ and mind with their partner. Features: The game will feature live action battles, treasure hunting, altering Swen’s main weapon with rare fragments of fallen Stars, renaming weapons, voice overs for characters, currency system, text on screen system, choice of being good or bad, orchestral music, books with short stories and valuable information, some magic, and more ideas to come.. Genre: The game is an action adventure fantasy game with cartoon style art. Target Audience: The game is for anyone of any age. No bad language or gore. A little violence. Views: Guardian will be in third person view and in first person as well. Game Scope: There will be at least 5-6 towns or more to explore. The world terrain will be separate from the town. Different zones will load the player to new terrain scene or towns. etc.. There will be 6-10 N.P.C.S each at least in a town that will have some purpose in the game. Filler N.P.C. will be added to. There will be a lot of different weapons like Swords, axes, bows, and a few unique ones. Timeline: This project has no set date to be finished at any certain time at the moment. Common And FAQ: What is Guardian about? “Guardian” is a computer game being developed by Boundless Game Studios © that has an adventure/fantasy genre with a toon style. It features a character name Swen who’s name can be changed by the player at the beginning of the game. Swen will have to embark on a great journey with some help from his guardian Bounda. A fallen guardian from the sky has fused with the person he/she sworn to protect. Now chaos has been let out in Swen’s world. Tell me about the setting and the feel of the game? The setting takes place in a vibrant and colorful world known as Valenia. Also, a few glimpses of Bounda’s unknown world Anaira. “Guardian” will give the player a feeling of adventure, curiosity, and a rush in battle. The game art will be beautiful. How is the combat in the game? The fighting in the game will have preset combinations like swinging your weapon left, right, vertical, down. If you press the attack button once there is only one attack action. Press multiple times and this will give you more attacks with Swen’s sword. There will be more special sword attacks. You will also be able to have 3 items/weapons equipped at a time. This does not include your sword but does for shields. So be careful what you equip. Player can target enemies. Who do I play as? The main character is Swen and you control his role in the game. Which is the hero. Dialogue? Yes the game will have scrolling text and possibly voice dialogue. The player will be able to pick 1-3 choices to reply back with. Does Swen talk? Not literally but he does through the choices you make. He does have sound effects though. How are the camera controls? The game includes a button that will give u a fast switch between camera views. Ex. 3rd person view to first person view. Camera view will adjust to enemies that are targeted. Use the mouse to use the rotating view or simply don’t press any buttons for a minute to auto switch to rotating view. What are the main features in the game? You know the cool stuff? The team would really like to focus on the gameplay, story, and all the cool places, items, or weapons to discovered. The main sword can be altered many times (shapes of blades) which will give that certain sword an effect like extra damage, fire, ice, more magic, and more. How about getting to name your sword? Tired of using your sword and want to shoot something with a bow? maybe a blow gun? Well switch to first person and fire away! Selling treasure. Reading books to find short stories or VALUABLE information. Don’t forget the easter eggs.. There will be more features listed in the future.This game will be free for everyone. Doesn't matter if your new or a veteran. You can come and go on the project. It will be fun to have a lot of people helping out. I am aware that people like seeing progress before they are willing to lend out a helping hand.I will make sure everything goes smoothly as possible. My team mates and I talk on Skype everyday. I feel its important to get to know everyone as well and working with them. I don't want this to be work. Lets have fun. Please do not post negative comments. I'm looking for people interested and not downers. Skewl made the 3d model of the blue bird. Skype: CaseySWilliams52 email : BoundlessgameStudios@gmail.com or kcwilliams52@hotmail.com Website: http://www.boundlessgamestudios.com/ Come by the site, register and tell us what you would like in the game, also see videos, pictures, talk about the game, or ask to be on Team Boundless. Thanks for reading. -Casey

Posted by BoundlessStudios 6 years ago


Zombie RPG / D&D Style Game

For ZSDW: I've been in the zombie hype for awhile, (about a year ago,) and after finishing a couple of Zplans, I decide it would be fun to kill some zombies with dice and statistics. Alas, this is quite the beta, and it generally uses d6's, as well as some skewed grammar and stats. First things first. You are not a specified character. You have no character sheet, you have no special abilites. The following few paragraph will explain a few confusing things, and give hints on how your location will affect your game. Then, there will basic weapon stats. Later, there will be about how zombies affect you, and what kinds of zombies there are, and their health. You will also learn how you can scrounge for stuff from bodies.  Subdivide means to roll for what section it is applicable for. Say your about to go into a room, you would roll for SURVIVOR and ZACH Room check. Say you get a four(4). That means there is something in the room. You would then decide if it was locked. (Unnecessary, but for extra gameplay, most are going to be locked. Hit the lock with something, and roll for it's regular attack. If the attack is successful, you broke the lock. If not, well, you may have to literally blow up the door, or say that you cannot go into the room.) Let's say no lock for times sake. Now, you know something/someone is in there. Subdivide by rolling what it is. Second line of Survivor and Zach Room Check shows this. Luckily, you roll a one(1). That means a Military person is in the room. They can have Assault Rifles, Submachine Guns, Rifles with Scoped subclass, And Scatterguns with the Breacher Barrel subclass. You can only find them in Military bases, Start Variable Location:Warzone, or ALERTNESS Yellow or higher. When moving through a house, roll for room encounters. You may roll for how many rooms you must go through,( If I roll 5, I need to go through 5 rooms before getting out, or to destination around/in house) so you must roll for encounters/room searches while in those rooms.(You would roll 5 times in this case for People and Zach Room check rolls.)  In a house, you may roll for RUN, so 1-2 success, and go to the next room. 4-6, unsuccessful, roll for Scratch. (1-3 Scratched, 4-6 safe.)   ALERTNESS is just a guide for what zombies are available to kill. The ALERTNESS bar is unnecessary; however it adds another angle to the game. It is at the back of this guide.  Ideas, Tips and Otherwise: Tanks, APCs, Pickups, convenience stores, Molotov Cocktail, Improvised weapons, have some fun, and add to this game! Make up some weapons, apply variable splash damage, and just make sure you kill some Zach!   Your start variables should be placed on a separate sheet, for reference. Say for location you picked rainforest/jungle, (your geography, weather, and season fits that description.) you will need/want to roll for Scratches more. (For realism, generally, there will be more crawlers, same with Aristriked Urban.) Same for Urban, and Airstriked-Urban, (Broken buildings, rubble, etc.) or Warzone. (More military personnel. Tanks? Have some fun! :)  START VARIABLES (At the top of the game sheet.) Location: Geography: Weather: Season: # Zach's: Zach's Location: Population Density: Specialized Setting: Attack Rolls: Locks (Y/N): Scratch (Y/N): Alertness Level (Y/N): Supplies (Y/N): Leg Break (Y/N): Travel Days (Y/N):   Supplies is a form of food, ammunition, and other necessary items for a single day. Each survivor in your current group takes 1 supply per day. Supplies can be found by subdividing if your preceding ROOM SEARCH roll is 1-2. If Travel Days is active/applicable, your group takes only 4 supplies per day, individual people in your group do not take any supplies, and you cannot be attacked by Z's. Travel Days are good if you have more than 4 people in your group, and have low health, or need to get somewhere. BITES are fatal, you take 3 supplies when bitten, then the following day you become a Z. Your group can take your weapons. SCRATCH'S are non-fatal; you take 2 supplies for 3 days. (7supplies, because of the one you took the day you were bitten, then the 6 you will take for the following days.) For all melee attacks, roll for bone breaks. 1-2 break, 3-5 Scratched, 6 safe. Scratch disables RANGED and FIREARMS attacks. For disabled, or failed melee attacks, 1-2 = arms, or arm, 3-4 =legs, or leg, 5-6 = chest or neck break. A Neck Break Disable turns Zach melee attacks to 2 bitten, 1 and 3 scratched, 4-6 safe. Arms/Legs breaks decreases that zombies fighting ability to 2 bitten, 1 and 3 scratched, 4-5 safe, 6 breaks leg of human.  When a human has a leg broken, he/she takes two supplies per day, and halves the amount of current PTD. (Play Time per Day)   To determine the time a day takes to complete, roll for the PTD, or Play Time per Day. This is found by rolling a 6 sided dice, then multiplying the number on the dice by 3. This is approximately how long a "day" is in the ZRPG, in minutes. You will need a watch or timer to play this game, if you want to apply PTD.  FIREARMS Scattergun(Shotgun) = 1-3 hit, 4-6 miss, Melee 1-4 hit, 5-6 disabled. RANGE:3 This affects a maximum of 3 Zs. Roll for 1-2 1 Zach affected, 3-4 2 Zach affected, 5-6 3 Zach affected. Sub-Class: Breacher Barrel, 1-2 hit, instant death upon Z's, breaches locked doors/drywall (Apartments, this happens if you like to shoot stuff, or the lock you just suck at opening wont unlock,). Pistol = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. RANGE: 4 Melee 1-3 hit, 4-6 failed, if failed, roll for scratches, Z is disabled if successful hit. Subdivide for disable type. RANGE: 1 Sub-Class: Laser, 1-5 hit, 6 miss. RANGE: 5 Rifle = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. RANGE: 10 Melee 1-2 hit, instant kill, 3-5 disabled, 6 scratched. RANGE: 2 Sub-Class: Sighting-Laser, 1-4 hit, 5 miss, 6 disable. RANGE: 12.  Bayonet, see knife attack roll. Scope, 1-9 successful on 12 sided die. RANGE: 16 Assault Rifle = 1-4 hit, 5 miss, 6 instant kill or disable, you pick. RANGE: 14 Sub-Class: Grenade Launcher, 1-4, instant 4 Z's kill, when applicable. 5-6 miss Blows open walls/doors, when you fail  assault rifle as a prerequisite to use a grenade launcher. Sub-Machine gun: 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. Has a three round burst, you can hit a Z 3 times, or 3 Z’s 1 time each, or any combination thereof. Sub-Class:   BLUNTS Crowbar = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. Sub-Class: N/A 2x4 = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. Sub-Class: Additional Spike/Nail 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss, roll for instant kill, or instant disable. Sheet Metal Tipped, instant disable 1-4, 5-6 miss. Bat = 2-5 hit, 1 and 6 miss. Sub-Class:Aluminum Bat, 1-3 and 6 hit, 4 bat bends (You cannot use the bat anymore)                                        5 miss, instant disable if hit is successful.                    Steel Bat 2-5 hit, 1 and 6 miss, instant kill if hit is true. Sledgehammer = 1-3 hit, 4-6 miss, roll for Scratch if hit is false, insant disable/kill, subdivide for odd/even. You cannot attack next round, but you can use a secondary. Sub-Class: Industrial size, 1-5 hit, 6 miss, instant kill, Scratch if miss. You can only use this once per battle, however at the cost of a Scratch, you may use it again.   SHARPS Axe = 1-2 hit, 3-6 miss, instant kill. You can only use this once per battle, however at the cost of a Scratch, you may use it again. Sub-Class:Double Sided axe, 1-3 hit, kills 2 Z's. You may use this twice on your turn, You can only use this once per battle, however at the cost of a Scratch, you may use it again. Hatchet = Melee, 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss, Thrown, 1-2 hit, 3-6 miss, if hit, roll = 1-3, disabled, 4-6 instant kill Sword = 1-3 hit, 4-6 miss. Instant disable, or roll for instant kill, 1 and 6 instant kill, 2-5 disable. Sub-Class: Knife =1-2 eye stab, instant kill. 3-4 disable. 5-6 miss. If miss, roll for 1-4 scratched, 5-6 bitten. Thrown 1-4 hit, instant disable. 5-6 miss. When you successfully instant kill or disable a zombie, you lose your knife. Sub-Class: Improvised weapon w/ rifle. 1-4 instant kill,  5-6 disable.   RANGED Bow and Arrow =1-3 hit, 5-4 disabled, 6 miss. Sub-Class: Bomb Arrows,1-4 instant death. Fire Arrows 1-4 hit, roll again, 1-3 immolates Z's, 4-6 damages torso. See Molotov Cocktail effects. Molotov Cocktail = 1-5 hit, 6 immolated, dies 3 days. Buildings burn 3 days. Sub-Class:Alcohol Bomb, 1-6 hit, no misses. 2 Alcohol Bombs kill a Z, 2 days. Starts building fire.   Room Search Rolls: WEAPON SEARCH: 1 = FIREARMS, Subdivide for type, pistols and scatters only 2-4 = SHARP, 5 = BLUNT,  6 = RANGED, no Crossbows/Archers Bow. ITEM SEARCH: 1-2 = Supplies, when applicable. This is probably CVS's Walgreens, SURVIVOR and ZACH ROOM CHECK: For a room check, use a d20.  1-4 Z-Encounter, 6-9 survivor, 10-15 nothing, 16-20 supplies. If you roll 16-20, roll a d6. You gain supplies equal to the number on the d6. For a zombie encounter, roll a d6 for number of Z's   AWARENESS LEVELS L. Green = Near None                                   Civilian Known Only Green = Slight                                                  Civilian Known Only, possible Police help. D. Green = LOW                                              Slight Media Coverup,                  L.Yellow = Less than medium                     More Media, Local Police Intervention Yellow = MEDIUM                                         Full Media, Government Denying D. Yellow = Less than HIGH                         Supressed Media By Government L. Orange = slightly less than HIGH         National Crisis Orange = HIGH                                              Class 4 Outbreak, Zero Government, nearly full world infected. Black = Finished game                                             The world is destroyed and there are zero humans left on earth. Zombies are the dominant species now. They will walk the earth, scrounging, trying to fill the hole that can never be filled. Good job, how could you let this happen?   Z's or Zach Types   These zombies are put where applicable. Normal Zachs, and Fat Zachs are found everywhere.   If you miss while attacking a Z, subdivide if they hit you. If you are hit by a Z, you become one in 1 day. You take 3 supplies for that day, if applicable. 1-4 Z bites you, 5 they Scratch you, 6 is miss.   Normal Zach’s = 1 hits to kill apply infection normally.(Found in AWARENESS level: Near none) Fat Zach’s = 2 hits to kill, lower bite rolls to 1 bitten, 2-6 safe.(Found in AWARENESS level: near none) Mil Zach’s = 4 hits with FIREARMS and RANGED, 3 hits melee. (Found in AWARENESS level: Less than medium) Martyrdom Zach’s = 2 hits to kill, only found in churches, monasteries, temples, etc. (You may pickup pistols and knives only from these. Subdivide, 1-4 none, 5 pistol, 6 knife) Quislings = 2 hits kill, if bitten, do NOT roll for infection! If you are hit by a Quisling, you use 2 supplies for 1 week. PD(Police)Zombies = 4 hits kill, You may pick up Pistols and Scatterguns from them Subdivide, 1-3 pistol, 4 none, 5-6 scattergun. 

Posted by PKTraceur 8 years ago