Welcome

Welcome all to the Beer Bong Appreciation GroupHere i plan to gather as many people as people to build many different types of Beer Bongs, from the small tiny pocket size beer bongs to the massive industrial sizes.I also plan to start collaborations Instructables to get more people involved in the processSo feel free to introduce yourself and make yourself right at homeAnd remember, drink responsibility

Topic by Oily Seldon 11 years ago


Food Grade epoxy for making bongs, water pipe? Answered

Hello, Im thinking about trying to make a bong or water pipe out of epoxy resin, what kind of food grade resin should I use? I cant find answer anywhere as it should be quite safe and should not give any additional taste? FOR TOBACCO & LEGAL USE ONLY!

Question by ArnasL 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


how can i make a hole in a glass bottle? Answered

Okay so i have this sweet glass Pepsi bottle that i found at the store. And i wanna make a bong with it. I don't have any glass drill bits and don't really wanna buy any either. I did see a video where a kid cut a bottle in half with nail polish remover ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_A4J7RcdsfM&feature;=related )ANYONE KNOW HOW TO DO THIS? ALSO WHAT SHOULD i USE FOR THE BOWL?THANKS :]

Question by beauwalker23 10 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


Making a car seat belt chime / "bonging" alarm?

Many cars have a chime when you don't put your seatbelt on. After receiving a fine, my mate wants me to give his car a similar function. Any ideas about how I should go about this? Obviously it only needs to work when the ignition is on.?

Question by ormo 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


Scariest day of my life

I was caught in a wndys parking lot smoking flavored tobacco out of a hookah, having fun lightening to music and all of the sudden, "hand me the bong sir" my brother said its not a bong, its a hookah, and i was asked to step out of the car, and was put in hand cuffs then into a dodge charger police car, and we were let go with a ticket, the only good part, there was no weed in the car and the leather seats in the charger, scariest thing ever

Topic by Yerboogieman 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


HELLO

HELLO IM NOT FROM THE US BUT THIS IS THE BEST GROUP ( COULD BE ) IN THIS FORUM. WHAT ABOUT A LITTLE WEED GROVING INSTRUCTABLE HE HE MAYBE IF START IT COULD BE A SERIUSLY GOOD DISCOUSSION GROUP TO. ANYWAY IM NEW HERE AND BEFORE I START POSTING PROJECTS , I WILL FIND THE RIGHT GROUPS. IM A NERD AND DO A LOT OF STUFF WITH ELECTRONIC AND COMPUTERS , IM IN TO SCIENCE IN MANY DIFFERENT WAYS AND MAYBE IN THE FUTURE A FULLY AUTOMATIC COMPUTERIZED WEED CARE MACHINE WILL BE BUILD ? ANYWAY IM PLAYING MUSIC AND EXPERIMENT WITH SOUND AS WELL AS SMOKING WEED . I SMOKE BONG , WATERPIPE , CHILLUM , JOINT , EARTHHOOCAS , MELONPIPE , CARROT CHILLUMS , POTATOE BONG ,MANY DIFFERENT PIPES , BAKE WEEDCOOKIES GROVING WEED AND OF COURSE ENJOY WEED .

Topic by MR WEED 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago


Hi, i have an idea for a more eco-friendly blast furnace.

 Its a simple furnace except with a top leading to a chimney (like a fireplace). Halfway up there is a change in the pipes, instead of going straight up, it leads slightly downward til it reaches a pool of water, where the pipe emits the smoke into the water. After wards the smoke will come out from the water and up into another chimney leading straight up to escape. Do you think the water would be able to clean at least some of the air impurities? Here is my picture for a basic idea. Comments and ideas are welcome.  P.S. -I got this idea from a bong (no i'm not a pothead nor have i ever tried).

Question by TALLJ29 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Ingenuity in the cannabis community

This is an inquiry aimed at the moderators and staff of the site specifically, but should also involve the community. I live in Northern California, which is one of the world centers of marijuana use and culture. My entire life I have been exposed to users of the drug, and it is a drug, although a largely harmless one in comparison to other legal drugs (and let's not make this a debate, please. it's not the issue at hand, argue about that in other places PLEASE). I would also like to add that I do not, never have, and will most likely never smoke marijuana unless I develop a medical condition for which it is prescribed. Being a maker, I have noticed the large amount of art, ingenuity, and design that goes into the smoking devices that these people use. This creativity and design is something that I feel should be shared on this site. Marijuana is a drug that is legal in many places, either freely available or medicinally, or in a legal gray area. In fact, it seems much more legal, and arguably safer than a portion of the projects on this website. From the perspective of someone who does dumb things safely, I have seen some stuff on here that is terrifying at worst, and dumb at best. That said, it's all usually creative, and awesome, and is by no means representative of the vast majority of content on this site. tl;dr: marijuana apparatus can be very creative and artistic, values supported by this site it is legal in various areas and a lot safer than some things I have seen on here The actual question: What is the official position of the mods/staff/community on posting content including or related to marijuana smoking apparatus? I have made many different kinds of smoking things for my friends, and it is a much more in depth and scientific process than one would imagine. If it's okay, I would like to share some of these creations. also, that's not my picture, just an example of an intricate bong.

Topic by ilpug 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Heated print beds - are they overrated gimmicks?

For years now I use my old, trusty Mega Prusa with the bare basics in terms of hardware. But basically every new printer out there comes with heated print beds and most users "upgrade" to one to get better quality prints. So I started to to check the reprap forums and other websites to find out why a heated would be a "must have". Quite a simple task you might think, but not so for someone who prints every material on a cold bed with success... What are the official pro statements for a heated bed? 1. Better bed adhesion of course. 2. Less warping of parts. 3. Far less problems with layer seperation. 4. Better print results. And of course there are a few more but not worth listing them. Why do I think most of the four statements are actually unrelated to using a heated bed? Bed adhesion is a matter of print material and surface of the bed / bed preperation, like tape, glue and such. If you filament peels off a cold bed with no adhesion at all it simply means the surface is either unclean or unsuited for the print material. Warping of parts happens because the material shrinks when it cools down, a heated bed is only able to keep a certain height of the print warm. Higher prints won't have any benefit in terms of better layer adhesion with a heated bed. Same goes for seperating layers. Unlike the common believe a heated bed does not fix this problem - it only masks it! Layers seperate because there is not enough bonging between them. This can be due to insuffient extrusion width, too high print layers, wrong print temperature and of course wrong z-axis stepping and wrong extrusion multiplicator. And how good a print comes out of your printer depends on a good calibration and proper print settings - again a heated bed only masks problems ;) Ok, so heated beds are nonsense, right? Well, wrong again ;) They take a lot of worry out of the daily print life to start with. Especially prints with big foot print will benefit, although PLA should never be a problem on a cold bed. If you print long parts in ABS or even Nylon you can have a hard time forcing the plastic to stay on the bed all around the print. A heated bed, with the right settings of course, can make sure your print keeps the shape until it is high enough so the bottom part won't be affected by shrinking anymore. My opinion on how to get the best results... Manage to print on a cold bed first! Smaller parts don't need a heated bed anyway, so use them to improve on your skills of finding the perfect bed material / coating! You will find that once you have really optimised your printer and settings most parts won't need a heated bed anymore. Once you are really happy with the result of smaller prints on a cold bed try something bigger and pay close attention to any problems on the way. For example a big print might start out perfectly but after about 5-10mm of print height you see the part starts to warp and slowly peels of the print bed - especially long parts or thin areas are affected. The infill also affects how a parts reacts during the cooling, so try the same problem print with solid infill as well as only 15% infill to compare - you can stop the print once the problem is identified, don't waste filament. Now comes the magic of the heated bed... You want the temp as low as possible but still high enough to prevent the warping! Why go low if high would help more?? Simply said: If the bed is too hot the part stays soft for a long time, which can badly affect layer bonding and shape. Imagine you squish the plastic on an already "hard" layer - the plastic is pressed flat to be within the set specs. Now if the the layer is still too hot and soft the plastic will push the lower layer in - which of course will expand outwards. So the layer can actually end up to be lower than it should be - layer will still peel ;) Start with around 50° C for ABS and turn the heat down gradually every 10 layers or 25 if you print really thin layers. If the part still prefers to warp go 10 degrees higher. But again: If the stuff would not stick properly on a cold bed work on that first! How do I print on a cold bed and claim it works fine? To be honest, with a lot of time spent on trying, calibrating and finding the right "magic" to put on the glass to make things stick. Nylon, if the part is big, can still be a frustrating task unless cardboard or Bakelite is used but I still prefer the glass bed. I no longer bother with tapes as it can be costly and I hate changing the entire setup just because I use a different material ;) As said, the main key is a proper calibration of hard- and software! If your prints look messy and you spend as much time cleaning your parts as printing them you know what I mean ;) At the moment my "bed magic" is a clear craft glue with methanol as a solvent, mine is from Aldi but similar products can be found in every craft store. The bed is sanded with 600 grid diamond blocks to be as flat as possible and to provide a bigger surface area for the glue. When mostly printing Nylon is first clean the bed with alcohol and put a layer of plastic primer on it before re-applying the glue. With the right temp settings this glue surface can be reused several times with increasing bond to the part. Once the glue start peeling off the bed it cut the area clean and apply another coat just in the spot. A single bottle of craft glue, diluted down by 20%, lasted now about 3 rolls of filament - not too bad for a 2$ investment LOL Seriously though, squeeky clean your glass bed using alcohol and / or acetone and play with different types of craft glue. You want the stuff that is clear and uses either methanol or ethanol as the solvent, don't bother with water based glues! If the glue sticks well to your part but peels off the bed easily try a layer of plastic primer on the bed first - do this outside! However, if your printer is only capable of using PLA anyway you might not want to bother at all and stick to tape ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 3 years ago