what kind of finish to use on a sign that is made with a wood burner

I recently got into wood burning and don't know what to use as a finish wax, oil, etc  the project  is a piece of drift wood with some words burnt into it so the finish needs to stop the ash from being weathered away  any help is appreciated ill make an instructible on it soon     

Posted by MakeShiftMaker 3 years ago


My new instructable about reusing burnt LED!

Hello all! Here is my new instructable about reusing burnt LED, I want you to post here your ideas how it can be used in projects. If your LED is shining different color than in my instructables you are welcome to post photos here! https://www.instructables.com/id/Bring-Your-burnt-LED-back-to-life/ Every project that uses my Idea can be linked in my instructable!

Posted by kondzio29 3 years ago


Burnt Iron

Anyone has an idea on how to clean this burnt iron? Thanks. AL.

Posted by alsports2000 4 years ago


Hydrogen as a fuel?

It's easy to separate hydrogen and oxygen from water. If you mix them together it doesn't become water until it is burnt. In theory you could make a water rocket from gases. But in reality...

Posted by Princess_Mellow 10 years ago


What to do with a dead ps2 slimline (thin ps2)?

I have an old Play Station 2 (Thin one) that the laser is burnt out in and the fan does not work. WHAT DO I DO WITH IT????????????????????? ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Posted by grundisimo 9 years ago


coke has burnt your mind

Hey all u lame ducks all i can say is in louisiana you can get 1to 5 years hope that coke change is worth it and what are you gonna say to mama when the kid is sitting front and center facing some hard nose judge that is going to have some serious questions for you like what is your education level, got a j..o..b and that means work with pay for those dum asses dum enough to rob a drink machine boy or girl when you get sent to the cooler it won't be to have a coke you are going to be some hard core's honey

Posted by yourmamasreadinthisshit 11 years ago


Burning Saltwater?

I found this article in class today, and thought it was pretty interesting. a scientist discovered that by exposing saltwater to radio waves, it weakens the bonds in the water, and the hydrogen can be burnt.http://www.engadget.com/2007/09/11/can-saltwater-be-burned-as-fuel/

Posted by its a lion 11 years ago


Paint Choices

What color scheme should I choose for the AK-47 I'm making? Any suggestions? The original colors would be like a burnt sienna and a black I usually spray paint the parts separately here is a pic of the completed model i'm building

Posted by aj01-01 8 years ago


plasma tv

CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO GET RID OF THE PERNAMENT BURNT IMAGE OF MICKY BLOODY MOUSE OFF MY PLASMA TV MY GRAND SON LOVES DISNEY PLAY HOUSE CHANNEL AND IT HAS LEFT A LARGE IMAGE OF MICKEY ON THE BOTTOM OF THE TV ALSO IS THERE A PROPER WAY TO CLEAN THE TV SCREEN I HEARD NOT TO CLEAN WITH GLASS CLEANER MANY THANKS KOVAKO

Posted by kovako2007 10 years ago


Battery circuit for Panasonic EY6431 EY9230

Does anyone have the circuit for these batteries please ? There is a temp overload (bimetalic type) and also a two diode (? zener) + resistor in series that I presume identifies the pack (voltage) to the charger.  I have burnt out pack that I have new cells to rebuild but not certain about the connection / values for those parts. Thanks

Posted by GeoffS15 2 years ago


waterproofing a CD spindle

Hi all, I've been working on a variation of an existing instructable and I thought I'd asked this q before, but can't find it. SOooo here goes; I need suggestions on sealing a cd spindle into its plastic cover? I've managed to do it with about 4 sticks of hot glue and several burnt knuckle but  there must be an easier way? cheers, flashj

Posted by flashj 8 years ago


LED Series Resistor

I just finished soldering a board to flash an IR LED using a 555 timer, and attached it to 9V PP3 battery, and the LED burnt out.The LED was rated at 1.7V 100mA and I was using a 100ohm series resistor. By my reckoning I should have only needed a 73ohm resistor, (9V - 1.7V) / 0.1A = 73ohms, so 100ohm was more than enough.Any ideas?

Posted by evilad 10 years ago


junk plz

This sounds stoopid but does anyone just have led lights, bulbs, etc.? I see a LOT of instructables where it uses led lights. i had an electricity kit a few years ago. it came with 3 led lights. i later burnt them out by modifying the kit and plugging the lights into a 9 volt battery. also if its not too much too ask, mini motors for rc cars? email me at freyj@live.com

Posted by Jacko13 8 years ago


resistor replacement

 I have a small model battery charger which has a resistor burnt out . output is 7.5  volts  according to the label which sounds right as pack is 7.4volts.  measured voltage from transformer  is 15 volts Can anyone tel me what value resistor I need to drop the  voltage  to 7,5 v or whatever the actual out put shoul be. thanks people, john mantova

Posted by john mantova 4 years ago


I have my computer, and an old computer.

I have my old server with a Pentium 4 Hyper threading 3.06ghz with a burnt out motherboard. Also, my current computer that works Perfect with a Celeron D 2.80ghz. They have the same 478 slots, but I'm not sure if it is a plug and play deal, i have the thermal compound stuff. Should i do it?

Posted by Yerboogieman 9 years ago


Instructables T-shirt swap!

Hello! I have gotten a few instructables shirts from some recent contests and have 4 of the same burnt orange color. They are quite lovely but I was hoping to diversify my color collection. So if anyone has ones they would be willing to trade feel free to post of send a message! Mine are all mediums and I would really like to trade for other mediums. Thanks!

Posted by Patrick S 5 years ago


DIY Mini Drill Machine

Hi everybody! I have bought a mini drill chuck from banggoog.com. But unfortunately it's hole is smalle than my DC motor. i don't even know the motor I have is 12v or 6v but i have ran this motor on 12v but i didnt burnt. its tip is bigger than my drill chuck. Any ideas how I can fix this?

Posted by NajabatK 10 months ago


Tiny 12v motor burns out a transformer. Why?

I connected a tiny little motor (12 volts, 60 milliamps) to a 12 volt, 1000 milliamp wall wart transformer.  The motor turned (no load), but when I disconnected it after not more than 10 seconds, I noticed a burnt smell and the transformer no longer has any output.  What happened?  Bad luck, or is there something about a motor's inductive load that would be incompatible with that kind of transformer?

Posted by walter.warren1 3 years ago


lcd cropping software?

I just built a DIY projector for my room (basically an overhead with an lcd and fans slapped on). Many people that do this use a 15 inch screen, but my family recently burnt out the backlight of a 17", so I used that. Anyways, since the stage of the overheadprojector can't see the whole LCD, some parts of the image get cut off. Is there some sort of software to essentially shrink a screen so that I can get the whole image viewable to the projector?

Posted by guyfrom7up 9 years ago


Extreamly fast burning fuse! uses?

Ok so I was just out buying fireworks and i found some fuse. I needed it as a fuse for a mini cannon i was going to make so I bought it. But i relized after I bought it that it said burns 1 foot in .6 seconds!!!! Thats fast. When i burnt a small piece of this I found this was true. It to fast to use as a fuse so now what can i do with it?!?!?!? I have 25 feet!!

Posted by ostomesto 7 years ago


what sealant / glue would i use to repair a life proof case screen that is peeling away?

A girl from the Bunnings store recommended that I used a super glue that is ok with plastic - Bit of a mistake on her behalf.. the superglue even though it was "supposed" to work with plastic burnt the plastic and rubber a bit.. I need recommendation of what clear sealant / glue to use to repair this thing properly but is still durable to rubbing in your pockets... As you can see, the screen has peeled away again.. Help please! Regards, Simon.

Posted by shnookface 2 years ago


what sealant / glue would i use to repair a life proof case screen that is peeling away?

I went to a hardware store to get recommendation on re-sealing the screen to the lifeproof case but the lady incorrectly suggested a superglue that supposedly was meant to work with plastic and rubber but didn't. As you can see, the superglue burnt the plastic and rubber a bit.  Could someone please recommend a glue or sealant to seal the case again so its waterproof and also is durable so that it doesn't rub off in my pocket. Help please!

Posted by shnookface 2 years ago


Fun withTransformers

Connect the output of 2 transformers in series...  12v  +  6 v. much as you would connect batteries in series. will it burn out?  will it produce 18 v as one would expect with batteries?......... 18 volts!!  yay!   hasnt burnt out( YET)... i wont leave this unattended. transmission of power is more efficient at high v.     sooooo... if i hook the output of a 10,000 v  neon transformer to 2 thin strands of wire( think magnet wire, or a single strand from stranded cable)   and input this  10,000 v into the secondary of a second identical neon transformer, will i get usable 120 v from the primary?  (attempt to run the second transformer in reverse as a stepdown) Nope... not YET.  Suggestions?

Posted by Toga_Dan 3 years ago


Kinetic art help...

Hi! Longtime lurker,1st time poster. I am wanting to make a kinetic work that kinda resembles ghosts... fabric that moves similar to this but more covered like it's someone with a sheet over themselves... I have bought nitinol (.15" gauge), burnt my fingers applying electricity directly (LOL) and thought I'd try a mechanism to pop up similar to a jack in the box or whack a mole, or a cam and follower. I really love the NiTi but I am open to any suggestions from any resourceful peeps here. I am gonna go shopping for toys to open up sometime this week for ideas but in the meantime... The main features I want are: random activation, pop up go back to original position, inexpensive... Thank you in advance for ANY insight, ideas. Much appreciated. Yours truly, The Lurk

Posted by The Lurk 9 years ago


3D or correctly 2.5D engravings on wood with a CO2 laser

Due a lack of correct forum sections I just post in the tech department, hoping the right people will find it ;) I did some tests with my CO2 laser cutter to find out how good or bad it works for 2.5D engravings. Turns out not too bad really. But during those tests I often noticed that I have areas where the wood is burnt while in areas with other power levels the wood is vaporised without charring, looks totally clean. So of course this meant further investigation on the topic but to my surprise my Google skills seem to get rusty as I could not find anything of use. As I am still planning to do a full Instructable on the topic of 2.5D engraving it was time to do more detailed tests myself. My machine uses an Arduino Mega as the controller, running on a modified MarlinKimbra release, so I had no problem adjusting all required parameters. Here are some of my findings so far: Once the power levels are high enough to do real damage to wood instead of just darkening it, there are levels that just vaporise the wood. I did not test the full power range but there seem to be several "sweet spots" for the power, above and below the wood will be burnt instead of a clean vaporising. Next step was to check this behaviour with changing PWM frewunecies for the laser firing. Started with a know power level that vaporises and adjusted only the PWM frequency. Lowering the frequency soon caused charring, increasing the frequency had very little effect. Next was a lower power level that with the original PWM frequency would charr the wood. Here lowering the frequency caused more charring, at quite low frequencies to the point that the kerf suffered massively. Increasing the frequency again allowed to find a sweet spot where the wood would vaporise rather than burn. So I am wondering if anyone else has done tests in this regard or knows of any links with more info?

Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago


Variable Speed on a DC motor

Hi everyone, Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can slow down the roatational speed of a 14.4V DC motor? Its come out of a cordless drill and I have another project to put it to use but it rotates too fast at the moment. I have 2 options: 1) Use a variable resistor to slow down the speed 2) Use a gearing system In an ideal world I would prefer to use the variable resistor, as then I could change the speed of the motor quickly and effortlessly. Mechanical circuits are not my best skill and Ive already burnt out a cheap potentiometer (presumably too much current?) so I need to think more inteligently about what the design should be rather than just bolting components on the side of it. If anyone has any ideas please feel free, im open to all suggestions at the moment. Thanks Mat.

Posted by mathewjenkinson 11 years ago


Velleman Sound to Light module LEDs always on.

I  have made the velleman sound to light project: http://www.vellemanusa.com/downloads/0/minikits/manuals/manual_mk103_rev1.pdf the LEDs are supposed to turn off when there is no sound and go bright when there are loud sounds. Mine are bright all the time. I first tried the kit using my own blue LEDs instead of the red ones supplied, these worked for a time then they just stated to give a VERY small amount of light. I switched to the red ones and now they are on high all the time. I also accidentaly connected R3 with C4 (see PDF). C1 and R2 are also connected by solder, im not sure if it should be like that, I also kinda damaged the C1 connection hole as I partially burnt it with my soldering iron D:.  Could any of these issues be the reason why my kit inst working? I have attached pictures of my board Many thanks, Rushmoore :)

Posted by Rushmoore 3 years ago


Help with building a sphere made of wood.

I'm looking to build myself a globe but I'm having a little trouble. Most globes today have a single pivot that lets you rotate the globe along a single axis. I'm looking to build a globe/sphere that will allow you to rotate it 360 degrees in any direction. My grandpa used to have a globe that didn't have any pivots and that had a stand that you could place the sphere/globe on and you could rotate it anyway you wanted. I haven't been able to find anything close, and his got burnt down in a fire. I don't foresee the base being a problem, but I haven't really built any spherical shapes with wood as of yet and I am hoping you guys might have a few tips to help me on my way. I figure I should start with creating a skeleton of a sphere using at least three interlocking rings and go from there and see how sturdy it is. Any insight or tips are much appreciated.

Posted by Lorek 10 years ago


Outdoor RGB LED Strip Failure

Hi all,  I've had quite a modest installation of RGB LED tape (45 meters ish, split into more manageable circuits) around the perimeter of my decking. This uses the commonly available 5050 RGB LED Strip light, the type with the epoxy covering the tape and also an outer sheath to protect it from water ingress.  I had heat shrinked the ends and also applied multiple layers of liquid electrical tape where a connection to a 4-core cable was needed. This has held up well for some time.  After about 2 years, I noticed that some of my RGB LED tape runs were sort of 'corrupting' where a small amount of moisture had got in, and shorted the RGB channels so that no matter what I feed into the tape, it always output white (or some other combinations or colours). Still, I ignored this, as it didn;t bother me too much.  These ran back to a central controller, which did the DMX control and amplification of the 12v single.  Anyway, to cut a long story short: Yesterday I smelt smoke.  I was walking around the garden and I noticed that one of the strips had caught fire, at a single point in the middle, and was burning a hole through my decking!  Again, long story cut short, I put this fire out and looked closer. The strip was so badly burnt that I can't determine what went wrong here.  I'm thinking maybe a resistor burnt out and caught fire? The tape has been running 'on' for quite some time (weeks) so this is a possibility.  Another possibility is that there could have been a short between 12v and ground, which caused heat. Now, there aren't any fuses on the 12v rail (fuse and circuit breaker protecting the 240v side) but I wouldn't have thought that this would protect me from a fire anyway!  I'm interested whether anyone else has had a similar experience or has any suggestions as to why this has happened.  I love these RGB LED strips, use them a lot in my house, but after seeing this, I'm not a little more dubious to keep using them.  I'm an electrical engineer (in the making, at University) and this has stumped me!  Thanks Joe

Posted by joearkay 1 year ago


Homemade Smore Marshmallow Testers

Ok,Here's an idea for those of you who want to get into the kitchen this weekend and play around. Some of you may have seen my Ible on making marshmallows.So here's the experiment. The favorite marshmallow treat for many people would have to be the s'mores made over a campfire. Lets see if we can recreate some of these flavors in a single marshmallow treat.Ideas:-Use the standard vanilla marshmallow recipe as a base.-Experiment with liquid smoke flavoring to add some smoky taste. Probably not too much.-Possibly add a bit of burnt sugar. Might be able to do this torching the outside of the marshmallow or by some other means.-Graham crackers. Either crushed into a powder and added to the powder coating, or left whole and just stuck to the marshmallow.-Chocolate. Could be added in multiple places. Could be added directly to the marshmallow itself. Cocoa powder could be added to the powder mix. Melted chocolate could be drizzled over the marshmallow or dipped in.Anyone else have any other idea or feel up to the challenge of testing out the recipe?

Posted by cainunable 9 years ago


Motor and base design for optical toys

Hello everybody! I'm in the process of building a reiteration of a series of optical toys (like this one, or these) with motor, stroboscopes and little music system. The thing is their discs measure about 1 m (like 3,2 feets) and one of them (praxinoscope) is a heavy one due to the mirrors it possess (see photo [it isn't it's actual state]) so I created a metal base for it with a tube, three metal angles as legs and washing machine 115v ~60hz 70W 250VAC single phase motor soldered on (with capacitor), so the disc sits on top of the motor, and the thing is that after an hour of so of being tested on continuous duty it stopped and started to smell like burnt. What could the problem be? Could it be a design problem since the motor has all that weight on top? Should I have used gears and pulleys? How can I make it last longer without it being to complex?  If someone can help or has some ideas I'd appreciate it , thanks in advance! Benkos M. G.

Posted by BenkosM 2 years ago


Motor Driver IC Blown up. Wish to know what went wrong

I am using 11.1V 25C 3700mAh Lipo Battery for powering up Motor driver Card (Dual DC Motor Driver 20A) Motor driver Product Link: http://robokits.co.in/motor-drives/dual-dc-motor-driver-20a . Basically, I tried connecting two motors instead of single Motor on each motor port on the driver. So in all 4 DC motors connected as the motors had no load. As per my calculations, all 4 DC motors together cannot draw more than 4 Amps of current. DC Motor Specifications 10 RPM High Torque Dc Motor. Link : http://robokits.co.in/motors/high-torque-dc-geared-motor-10rpm?cPath=2_3& During this check I noticed that one of the IC LR 7843 on the motor Driver Card got burnt, the moment I powered it up with LiPo Battery. Really don't Know why this happened.... Can someone please help me....

Posted by iaf64 2 years ago


Question on CFL and incandescent mix

This is weird, and occurred just the other day: For about 2 days in a row, while sitting at the computer, I heard a very high pitched whine. Naturally I thought it was the HD going, since it was about 8 inches from my head. The second night of this though, was giving me a headache so I pushed back from the computer to try to find which direction it came from. To my surprise, it wasn't the computer, but was at that frequency that it was hard to find which direction it actually did come from. Then, one of the light bulbs in the light fixture blew out and the whine vanished. Background: the fixture has 2 bulbs in it, one was an incandescent bulb, one was a CFL. The bulb that was complaining so loudly, was in fact, the incandescent bulb. They are wired in parallel, so the other bulb (CFL) continued to light the room after the one bulb failed. The question is this: Is it unwise to mix bulbs like this (I only did it because I only replaced the one burnt out bulb with the CFL) ? Did the CLF cause the filament of the incandescent bulb to vibrate at I high frequency and finally burn out? Or was this all just co-incidence?

Posted by Goodhart 9 years ago


Instructable censored for being dangerous

I would just like to comment about the fact that my Instructable on how to light yourself on fire (or how not to light yourself on fire) was censored. I understand that it is something that is very stupid and dangerous, but there are many things on Inructables that are dangerous and stupid (blowing fire, home made tasers, etc.) A lot of these things are also illegal. I just wanted to know exactly why mine was the one that pushed everyone over the edge, especially since it's so obviously a stupid thing to do. When I did it I was on fire for maybe 10 seconds, and the only reason I burnt some of my hair was because I was even more stupid and put the alcohol the whole way up my arm. What I really wanted was some comments on how maybe doing something like this could be made more safe, because there really isn't anything on the internet showing you how to light a part of yourself on fire. If you are into low budget film making it might be something people look into (I did) and if you can't find something you might do something even as stupid as I did. Anyways just wanted to defend myself a little bit. Alex

Posted by alexsk8ca 11 years ago


GE Microwave Makes Humming Sound with Smell

My GE microwave (JE1860SB 002) made a cracking sound and stopped working. After some research, I removed the cover and checked the fuse and it was good. I then checked the thermal flame/sensor and discovered it was burned out. I replaced the thermal flame/sensor and now the unit comes on but makes a loud humming sound and has a burnt smell. The next step (according to my research) is checking the diode (cable) which is attached to the capacitor. It appears I need to discharge the capacitor before proceeding? --- BEFORE replacing the sensor, the unit had been unplugged for over one week….AFTER replacing the sensor, the unit was plugged in for about 5 minutes on Jan 25, 2018.- What is the best/safest way to discharge the capacitor? Is an insulated screw driver or pliers needed or will a rubber handle tool work considering the time it has been unplugged? (Capacitor pictured below) - Should I remove the two connecting wires and diode before attempting to discharge the capacitor? - If the diode is bad should I still check the Magnetron? - If the diode is good, what is the next item to check/test?

Posted by BayouDude 8 months ago


What could go wrong in a standard garage door opener?

Hello there, I have been asked to try to repair a malfunctioning garage door opener. The man who handed them to me said all of the modules work for a few weeks, then suddenly stop working. I opened them, looking for any burnt component, dry solder joints, tested relays in search of a stuck one, but could find nothing. I tested them at home, and they all reliably clicked their relay on and off, as expected. So the question is, what would cause ordinary garage door openers to fail? I thought about a bad powerline (circuits are 50's era in his building, and have never been redone), but have no means to check it. In the same direction, I was looking for a different model garage door opener, and only found two alternatives: one is the run-of-the-mill SkyLink stuff, expensive, reasonably secure, the other is the dirt cheap Chinese-made remotes with no hint about security. Since this is Instructables, I looked for garage door opener projects, but most are so-called "smart" and need a reliable Internet access, both on the smartphone and on the receiver module. Since this is a multi-tenant building and my country is known to be among the most expensive for internet access 1. there's no easily accessible Internet in the garage 2. drivers can't be assumed to have a smartphone and even if they do, 3. Internet access on a cell phone is extremely expensive. The other question would then be: have any of the community members here saw a garage door opener that would: 1- only need easy-to-make RF remotes? 2- be at least as secure as the original SkyLink? 3- require no Internet access?

Posted by Cubytus 2 years ago


Did I fry my DC power supply with AC?

Hi yall, I was a very stupid person tonight, but I have learned from my mistakes. In short I fed my DC power supply AC voltage INTO it, I was working on a subwoofers power board this afternoon, trying to diagnose why it is continually blowing fuses, anyway later I finally figure out that the 8A bridge rectifier is visually burnt as well as two small ceramic caps near it, taking the most obvious route I replace them with the same spec parts and power on, no activity but its not burning fuses at least for now. I usually have my multimeter connected right to my 40V old "Lambda" (crap brand) power supply on the same test leads, so I can get an accurate reading of how much power I am putting INTO the circuit. I rarely work on live circuits and should have known this. I attempt to get a reading with the meter while the sub woofer is plugged in and turned on. Little do I realize that the meter and the power supply are both the same leads, so I am putting AC power INTO my power supply where it should only be outputting power. I of course see the power supplys indicators light up and show a spike of the max 40V and then slowly dying down to 0 then I hear something fizzle and smell electronics heating up. I shut it off obviously after only about a few seconds Now I cant even get it to power a lamp or LED, NO MORE POWER. Should I cut my losses and just get a new power supply or try and salvage mine?

Posted by jackillac92 7 years ago


Instructables Internship - Day 4

Alo Again,Well, this morning I didn't have the opportunity to burn my PB sandwich, not only because it was a PB&J; sandwich, but because the oven was filled with semi-burnt roasted tomatoes/garlic.Anyhow, Today I did some more outreach for the new Launch It! Contest and... drumroll please.... Billy and I shipped all of the remaining Laser Cutter Contest Winners' prizes! Woo Hoo! Other than that, the morning was pretty chill. I'm getting used to the much more relaxed setting here at Instructables. At all of my other internships I've had, everything was always so fast-paced, tense, and ridiculously demanding. At Instructables, everyone's just Chill. Everyone enjoys what they're doing. It's awesome.Also, I downloaded the Instructables MySQL dumpfile from Rachel, and I'm in the process of getting it back into MySQL. Eventually, I'm going to try and make some cool new statistic features for you guys!Billy and I tested out some LEDs and my ultra-thin/flexible solar panels, which are hella awesome. The specs say that they get 3V @ 22 mA max in the sunlight, but yesterday, I got that in the shade. In the sunlight?: 4.19V!After that, Jason, Billy, Noah and I checked out the Water Jet in Instructables' machine shop. Billy had to cut some stuff for a project of his, but watching the machine "do its thing" was really cool. There's so much awesome stuff here, I still can't believe it.Noah, Jason, and I then picked out some stuff that was going to get thrown out to use in Proj. X, and we ordered the Surgical Tubing, too!Then, Jason, Mike (Works for Potenco), and I went to the beach to check out the kite boarders, and fly the trainer kite. (Eventually, we'll get to kite board, too!)Alright, I think that I'm actually going to go get started on Proj. X now...I've included some pictures that I've taken throughout the day.Cheers,-MuffinatorP.S. I came up with an awesome badge idea, and I'll draw it up today on the computer. I'll post it by tonight, so make sure you tell me if you like it or not!

Posted by T3h_Muffinator 11 years ago


Making The Most Of Your Time Here

If you're reading this, you're hopefully about to become an AiR in the best workshop on earth. Congratulations! This is an amazing opportunity, and i'd like to share my experiences so that you can hopefully glean some wisdom. When I got here, I was quickly humbled. For the first time in my life, I was intimidated. I had never been in such a vast playground and wealth of resources. I put myself under a lot of pressure. I started with some smaller projects that ended up taking a lot longer than anticipated. I did everything the hard way. During this time I formed a great relationship with shop staff, and gained a deep respect for them. A month will go by and you will look back and wonder where it all went. There are a million distractions, and it's a tough game to balance them all. In my last two months, I decided I needed to pick a problem to solve. I bit off more than I could chew, and I chewed it. I did something a bit unconventional, and did a project on sustainability. I was in over my head, and I brought in a friend for help. And i'm really glad I did. Don't constrain yourself to being an 'artist'. You are about to immerse yourself deep in the heart of the maker movement. Make things that you will be proud of, that you can do nowhere else.  This is an nearly infinite opportunity, with the only limiting factor being time. You are skilled enough, have the aptitude, and can do absolutely anything. So what on earth do you make?  Quick Tips: -Pick a problem, and solve it.  Pick a problem that's bigger than one person.  -Don't shackle additional commitments during this time. (I burnt out from a big side project) Devote yourself to the shop. -Reach out to someone at Autodesk, and see if you can get mentorship, or use your art to inform things that they are interested in. Form a relationship with them. You will find wisdom and friendship. -Find a peer, and check in regularly about the scope of your work.  -Pick someone to collaborate on a big project with. Make someone else's dream come true.  -Space out your classes. Don't do it all at once, or you'll forget what that critical button on the DMS is.  Time Breakdown: 33% of your time goes towards collaboration 33% towards learning new stuff that's way above your comfort level 33% for the stuff you can do with your eyes closed

Posted by buchananwp 4 years ago


Instructables Internship - Day 3

Hello Again!So, What did I do today...During breakfast this morning I wrote up yesterday's log, which was exciting yet depressing... because of the burnt Peanut Butter Sandwich... no, that wasn't the top-secret project, DON'T WORRY!Other than that...hmm, well, initially, I just made some new "homepage images," then Billy and I attacked the semi-old yet miserably slow laptop that was attached to the "new" laser cutter and cleaned that out. Yeah, we made it run nice and fast =)After that, NoahW and I went out to Trader Joe's for Salad Club shopping. Yep, today was our day to cool lunch!Noah brought his mini-barbecue and we bbq'ed steak, chicken, and tofu! YUM! We also prepared a HUGE salad, which I'm not used to, 'cause I've never made salad before. For all of you who don't know how to make salad, basically, you get to kill a bunch of vegetables with a large, sharp, blade... VERY ENTERTAINING!Unfortunately, I forgot the muffin tin from "home" (Eric and Christy's House), so I wasn't able to bake muffins... there's always next week, though!After lunch, Jason, Noah, and I went out to home depot to get supplies for the top-secret project... I think I'll call it Proj. X, from now on. Anyway, we got all of the materials that we're going to need for Proj. X except for the surgical tubing V_v... it was just too darned expensive, so we're just going to order it online.However, tomorrow, we can start building! YAY!I'm starting to write up a new Instructable on my Hypercube Bubble maker, which should be published relatively soon. I'M EXCITED!I've also started on a template for the Instructables Badges, hopefully those will be rolling out of the laser cutter relatively soon, too!Umm... what else? Well, I MIGHT be able to make Cotton Candy Machine (Mark III) here! Unfortunately, I'm not allowed to use any of the heavy machinery (ie. the lathe), so I'll teach Billy how to use it and he could make my parts for me! This, However, depends on how much time I have to spend on projects, and if I'm willing to buy the aluminum (= a lot of $)Just for any of you who hadn't read my previous posts, I'm having the time of my life here at Instructables, and if you end up producing really nice Instructables, you might get the opportunity to intern, too! Remember, if there's a will, there's a way!Cheers,-MuffinatorP.S. I've included a picture of the view from my room. Yeah, I know, I had to make it all artsy... it's the Oakland Skyline at Night. It looks pretty cruddy in the "preview", so take a look at the full-sized image by clicking on the "I" in the upper left hand corner on the picture.

Posted by T3h_Muffinator 11 years ago


Tin Can Turbine Engine

Hello!               Let me give you some insight into this project (Tin Can Turbine). I'm going to school to get an Airframe and Power Plant Cert. (Aircraft Mechanic). I stumbled across this idea on YouTube one day in class and it really got my gears turning. It's purely for fun, and I'm not even sure if I have the technical skills to get it to work.             First of all the way a turbine engine works in layman's terms is Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow. The fan section sucks air in from the atmosphere, Where it is moved to a compressor section which squeezes the air into a tighter pocket of air; which makes the air hotter and more explosive. When the compressed air is pushed into the combustion chamber, it is more volatile than normal air due to the compression. When you add a fuel (jet fuel, gasoline, propane, kerosene etc...) it will ignite with the compressed air (given that there is a spark to get the fuel vapors to ignite). When the fuel/air mixture is lit the fire will continue to burn without an ignition source due to the explosive nature of the compressed air. And the gas (burnt fuel/air) is pushed out the exhaust. There are blades in the rear of the engine called turbine blades, which are connected to the front of the fan/compressor section, in some cases there are two or three turbine blades, which drive the fan, compressor sections independently. Due to the turbine blades being pushed by the exiting gasses, the engine becomes self sustaining. And through black magic, you have a jet engine!!!              I'm going to attempt to construct a jet engine (not a motor!) out of a "tin can". I'm really not going to use a tin can, I'm actually going to use .032" thick 3" wide, and about 6" long exhaust piping made out galvanized steel. It's a lot thicker than a typical soup can, thus willing to stand up to more heat. My proposed fuel source will be propane, because it's cheap, and the I'm sure that I'm capable of controling the amount of fuel going into the engine. I'm not sure yet how many fan blades vs. turbine blades that I'm going to use. Right now I'm in the experiment phase. My blades are going to be made out steel can tops, because there is very little cutting involved, beside the actual cutting and angling the blades. and they fit perfectly into the pipe. As for the fuel delivery i'm going to use a copper pipe that is approx .042 thick and hallow. I'm going to cap the end, and wrap it around the inside of can. There will be eight holes drilled into the copper, which should give it plenty of fuel at equal pressure all the way around the can, equals same heat all around.         As for the drive shaft, I'm not exactly sure of what to use for that. I may want to go with something hardened already, so the heat surrounding it won't melt it. (that's the hope anyways) . I'm also not sure of what sort of bearings I will use. I was thinking skate board bearing with the plastic crap around the middle taken out (so it doesn't melt and seize the bearings) and extreme high temp. white lithium grease for lube.          This is an experiment and I guarantee myself absolutely no success. But I think it will be fun to try. Questions or comments are more than welcome. Please, if you see any problems with the design, let me KNOW!!!

Posted by shawnpc 6 years ago


Fighting with Nylon ;)

As some might know I still use an old Gen1 Prusa but love the challenge of basically getting everything done with that oldie. One of my latest challenges of "always" printing on a cold bed includes Nylon. If you ever had troubles because you ABS or PLA filament got too moist you will already know what happens to your print... Nylon is even worse when it comes to moisture as you can't see or really feel it. I was thinking of making a complete Nylon guide as an Instructable but think I will start here to kick off some discussion first. So, we know the Nylon must be really dry for a god print as otherwise we get bubbles, bad adhesion and of course a foamy looking print. Well, not really... Let me explain: A perfectly smooth and shiny finnish is not always required, and with the right settings Nylon still forms strong bonds even with a foamy look. However, the dimensions of parts are affected as well - outside dimensions go bigger and hole diameters smaller. If that is no issue for your print then there is no real need to perfectly dry your filament ;) Speaking of drying: People use all sorts of methods to dry their filament, not just Nylon. One of the most common and most expensive seems to be the use of your oven for several hours to dry it. Another way involves food dyhydrators, bit less on the energy bill but still... Then we have the smart guys using the sun and silaca gel for the drying - good and great but so useless in cold and wet climates... My advise here: Take your time! I mean, sure you want to print right after the filament arrived in your letter box but a bit of preperation will save you filament and frustration. Usually filament comes in a sealed bag with a pack of silica gel and it should be dry and ready to use. But Nylon can become too moist within the time it takes to finnish a long print if you are in a wet climate. This means you start printing and all is good but the next day your new print looks ugly as for no real reason. Make use of these sealed storage containers. Put the filament in there with a good amount of indicating silica gel and only have a hole to feed the filament through - if in doubt use a bowden fitting and a short lenght of teflon tube to prevent friction. A piece of sticky tape over the hole when you don't use the filament and the filament is always ready to use. Reminds me to make an Ible for a suitable storage solution with spool holder... Anyway... When it finally comes to print Nylon you should know cardboard works best as a bed as Nylon sticks really well to it. I glue mine onto a layer of masking tape, this way it won't lift from the bed and I can still replace it very easy. But the most common mistake with Nylon is to print it too fast. The stuff really expands and shrinks a lot from filament to print and high speeds only too often cause the layers to seperate later on. Some people compensate with higher temperatures but I don't like the idea of fitting a filter system with activated carbon filters... Also keep in mind the intense shrinkage when setting the extrusion multiplier! If your ABS prints fine with 0.85 you can expect that the same sized Nylon prints fine somewhere in the range of 55-60! Now you also know why printing with thick layers is not such a great idea if you require all dimensions to fit. Although only outside accuracy can be done by cheating in the settings, getting outside, inside and extrusion widths settings accurate is almost rocket sience ;) Nylon is expensive or not available here in the diameter I require.... I had the same trouble and reverted to trimmer line and a modified, dedicated hotend instead. Why dedicated you wonder? Nylon can be real pain to clean as nothing dissolves and if you heat the parts hot enough to melt it you can not work easy with them. Having a decicated hotend means you won't run into the problem of burnt ABS or PLA clogging the nozzle ;) It also means you can match the hotend to the trimmer line you choice (more on that in a minute). For example, in some areas trimmer line of 2mm or 3.3mm diameter is the most popular and cheapest. Just drill out the hotend to cater for the new diameter, which I did after noticing the filament got stuck in the neck of the cold end ;) Trimmer line - does it matter which one? It does these days! Avoid everything that is not round or labeled with terms like "duracore", "dual core", "multi layer"  -basically all that indicates it is not just a single, solid stand of Nylon. Long lasting, special core line is great for your lawn trimmer but really bad for your hotend! PET, High temp nylon or even fibre re-inforced cores are in use, so in the best case you mix the nylon with overheating PET, in the worst you block your nozzle permanently. If it looks like it has a core or some sort of "mantle" around it, it means not usable.

Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago


Advice needed on nearly complete instructable

Sorry this is a bit long, but there is an actual question at the end, honest! Every morning at work I walk past a table at the end of our mailboxes that people put give away items on. Its usually a catalog of some form but for a long time now there's been a stack of empty CD spindles and a sign beside them that reads "free to good home." I could have taken them and sorted the mountain of CDs in my office or used them for small parts bins, but to make it areally Good use of empty CD spindles I had to ask myself "IS there an instructable in this?" There are some good ideas for using CDs and a few for the spindles, but at the moment what interests me is hydroponics. So using CD spindles or more exactly the plastic covers they come with I built the basic part of this excellent instructable: http://alturl.com/oa2qt    and I learned a lot of stuff about water pressure and such and once I had built the 2liter bottle method described above I decided to try sealing one of the CD cases and use it for the water container at the bottom of the stack. That took about 4 sticks of hot glue and a couple of burnt knuckles to get a good seal. Turns out there's holes in the center spindle too but I didn't notice them till I had hot glued the container closed. Also ignore the bit of blue air hose inside the container, I was up way too late and flipped the CD spindle 'right side up' which caused me to attach the air hose to the wrong outlet and basically made it useless. I thought I'd need a lot more water in the system than I do so I chose to use a 100ct CD spindle instead of the 50 ct spindles you see on top. (Thanks to all for the ideas on how I could have done it easier!) So far this part of the project was just overlaying the ideas in the excellent instructable above onto the materials at hand. So what I ended up with is an air pump from a fish tank pumping air into the bottom chamber. (the clear hose in center of picture.) This builds up enough pressure to push water thru the blue hose and up to the top CD spindle. I've cut holes the diameter of the air hose into the base of the spindle and this lets water slowly trickle into the Perlite growth medium. When the water reaches the bottom it goes out similar holes in the clear plastic CD cover and starts to pool up a bit to start the process all over again. There is just enough lip on the lid and the bottom of the next spindle to keep it from spilling down the side before this happens. It helps to use the same brand CD spindle all the way up. The clever part of this instructable is that each CD spindle easily stacks in place and you can remove it or change the order without having to dig up or harm the other plants. The base is very stable with several ounces of water in it and I'd imagine you could put 4 of these in a stack and happily swap plants in and out all summer long. The height of the stack depends on how strong your air pump is. I tested two different ones and both were capable of lifting water over 4 feet  up the air hose. Caveat: I haven't actually grown any plants in this yet, so your mileage may vary. Using the stack of CDs for use as apartment planters or sprouting medium would have satisfied the original curiosity for what to do with all those left over CD cases, but in absence of glowing blue LEDs or CO2 lasers I thought Hydroponics would be a great way to sex up the overall idea. I imagine you could use spanish moss or bedding in place of the Perlite, or even soil if you used a coffee filter to cover the holes till you were ready to stick a seedling thru it. This Instructable isn't quite finished as presented. There's a small problem. As you can see in the photo there's a half height (25ct) CD spindle between the water container and the stack of planting modules. Remember that hole I mentioned in the end of the CD spindle? I closed that with a bit of plastic and hot glue, but it made me wonder, COULD I put some sort of check valve here to allow unused water to trickle back into the holding tank YET not lose the hard fought air pressure that's pushing the water to the top of the column in the first place? Since I'm re-using all this old aquarium tech I thought I'd try one of those tiny check valves that keep water from backwashing into the air pump when its off. I'm not sure if it will work in this application or even how much air pressure it will tolerate. This will require some disassembly of the CD hydroponics tower and I thought I'd ask here for suggestions before heating up the glue gun again. So what do you guys think? This has been a lot of fun to think about and I can't wait to bring the media guy  around into my office to see how I've re-purposed the spindles. Just this one last step away…. cheers, flashj  

Posted by flashj 8 years ago


Printer disconnecting or USB port disappearing in Windows

First I thought to make an Instructable out of it but realised there are too many different printer models out there, so this time no images. What is this about you might wonder? Well, let me tell you my story first and you might see similarities to your problem. It all started with me getting a new PC as the old one got memory problems (RAM modules failed). After a few successful prints I noticed errors coming up in the log window. Mainly things like communication problems and that some data is sent again. Realised that on my new PC I did not check the speed settings for the COM ports, so I adjusted them to match the printer board and moved on without even bothering to check the logs. Then, half way through a bigger print, it all stopped and I could not even connect to the printer anymore. After a power cycle on the printer all was fine again but the error kept coming back every now and then. At this point I started to read up on the problem and the most common recommendation is to print over SD - too bad if your printer does not support it and too bad it does not address the issue at all! A few more technical answers pointed to the Logitech drivers, especially mouse, keyboard and 3D vision. As I was using the same outer hardware as before and also the same drivers (and same version numbers) I simply ruled this one out too, although it might be a vital clue for others. When starting to get frustrated and after opening a cold blonde I remembered that I had a similar issue a long time ago and that it was related to loose wires on the screw terminals for the power connection. Measured it all but according to my trusty multimeter all was fine. Now comes the fun part: I friend of mine with a HiFi fetisch was here when I testing the connection and he started laughing at my attempts. He explained that ALL his connections, no matter if power or audio signal are oversized! Here I started to wonder if he is up to something and looked up similar circuit board mounted power plugs. To my surprise they are all rated for anything between 1 and 5Amps. Even without a heated bed powered by the printer board I think everyone will agree that a max 5A connections is not enough. My frined then offered to check the plug and connector at his place - what a great thing to have friends :) He used a signal generator and small speaker with the plug as a connector between them. With an oscilloscope connected to both input and speaker you could see, while moving the plug, that the audio signal become somehow unclean - there where spikes and missing bits everywhere depending which way you wobble the plug. After taking the whole thing apart the destructive way we saw the cause: overheated contact areas with discolored surfaces. I replaced the plug now with a 250V/20A one from an old laser printer and had no USB or connection issues ever since. Ok, what's the thing with power and USB problems on a 3D printer? Almost all printer boards have the ground connections bridged to avoid interference on the USB signals. This mean, in case of a faulty power connection or one that is "dirty", the USB port on the computer can receive back EMF signal or even a voltage spike. In return a smart bios either disconnects the port or disables it until the problem is solved, in our case by restarting / reconnecting the printer. But even with no obvious signs of power problems you can get  a so called "dirty" connection. Dirty covers all from corrosion, worn springs for battery compartments, overheating or in the old days burnt relay contacts. For our printer it usually means that either the soldering connection on the board or a screw came loose, in rare cases like mine an undersized connector can burn out due to being unable to handle the currents. The bad thing is that you can not always spot these problems the easy way... Is there an easy way to tell that my USB problem is caused by a faulty power connection? Yes and no. Some boards offer indicating LED's, you connect power and the LED stays on even if the printer is disconnected from the PC. If it is more than just a Power on" indicator" this LED will be off after the printer stops working and in the device manager your serial port for the printer is gone. You might also hear the warning sound from Windows in regards to a device being disconnected. If all the above is true than most likely your power connection has a problem somewhere - if in doubt replace all screw and plug connectors for the power. Sometimes the problem is less obvious. Your print software might show communication problems in the log window or re-send a lot of commands. If the speed selection for the com port is the same as for the firmware of the printer board and as set in the printer software, it could also be a power connection problem. But to be on the save side try a shielded cable with ferrite cores on both ends first for the connection between computer and printer. Can I take any measures to prevent the problem? Sure, you could solder everything and make sure the wires are fixed in place so they won't move. But a simple indicator might be enough: Solder a piece of LED strip to the power connection on the circuit board - if the connection has trouble the LED's will show it in most cases by changing light levels or flickering. On top they act as a nice light to see what's happening during a print.

Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago


A couple questions

Hey guys, I want to bug you's again. Instead of trying to ask about different things in one of my other topics, I wanted to start a new one. I went to the local dump today, and one of the first things I spotted was Three, not just one, booster packs. You know, the ones you can charge up and boost a car with, and some of them have inverters built into them so you can run small appliances. Well I snapped all three of them up, thinking that at the very least, the lead acid batteries inside them would be OODLES of help towards making a full scale wind generator (I plan to build one or two full size wind generators with car alternators, whenever the good weather comes and I can work outside). Well, I got them home and cracked them all open. Turns out that only one battery is good to me (pictures below). The two identical units have 350 watt inverters built into them (I've removed one so far), but the batteries were bulging and the sides were split open, although not leaking, which was good, less mess to clean up. The third booster pack I opened appeared to have been already attempted at being opened. 4 of the 6 screws had been drilled out (which is beyond me as far as why they would do it? They were only phillips screws), but maybe they weren't successful? It had a couple wounds of electrical tape around it to hold it together. Needless to say, whatever cutting tool they used, cut into the battery itself (they cut too far in, dumbasses...), and so my main question here is, is the battery safe to charge, and use? I took some macro's of the damage and some of the cut marks seemed to have gone far enough in to cut into what appears to be a white plastic lining inside, as the white crud on the sides of the battery feels more like burnt on plastic from a cutting disc than it does acid that oozed out and dried up, so the damage doesn't appear to be that bad. What's the worst that could happen anyways? Also, the battery has about almost 8v left in it, and another question is, is that too low for a 12v battery? Like has it been discharged too far? Also, aside from the battery. I found this plate with a transformer, giant capacitor, and a pcb that looks like it was some kind of voltage converter board (I would take a picture but I've since cut a few things off of it and I won't even bother now) The transformer puts out 25v and you can see in the pictures what the capacitor is rated for (I would like to know what I can use this capacitor for, or if I should save it and wait till I can make a bank of capacitors for a tesla coil project or something) What I can't figure out, is what is this square device I found that was plugged into one of the output leads of the transformer? It only had two leads coming off of it, one is marked + and one -, the other two terminals don't have marking on it. No model numbers or anything. Does anyone know what this is? Also, last in my pictures is one of the inverter boards I pulled out of one of the power-packs. I cut the second outlet off and wrapped the first one in tape just to make sure I dont' shock the hell out of myself. I have my truck battery sitting inside over the winter, and with a good 12.71v, I thought it would be the perfect battery to try the inverter on. I brushed the wires onto the top terminals of the battery and although I could hear a bit of sparking, I saw nothing and the indicator light on the power switch didn't light. The volt meter also showed nothing from the 120v outlet. So I tried shoving the wires into the bolt sockets that the truck's wires bolt into, and I quite literally startled myself as it emitted a really loud BEEEEEEEEEEP, I nearly jumped through the roof. The indicator light turns on when I flick the switch to I and I can hear the transformer making a little buzzing sound. However, when I measured the AC voltage from the outlet, I didn't write down the voltage, but it was around 3v? Not even quite that much. I'm not sure if the inverter is screwed or if it has something to do with the switching nature of power inverters causing my multi-meter to not read it right? One other thing I will note is that I had to cut the power switch leads to remove it from the case, then re-solder the switch. The switch has 2 black wires and one red, I tried my best to make sure that each black wire went to the terminal on the switch it came from, and I assume if I didn't hook the switch up right, it wouldn't have lighted up or anything right?? I don't want to try plugging something into it for fear that it will blow up in my face, at least not until I know it's functioning like it should be, however I doubt these power packs were throwing out for failure of the inverter... *On the side note* I apologize for these (sometimes) rediculously long posts or just mundane questions. However, I like to be thoughrough with my questions so that there are very little questions asked, about my question, in the first place. As it seems to waste a lot of time asking for details about this or that problem, when you could just throughly explain it all in one go. This is what I try to do, so there are no blank spaces for you guys to try and "assume" where you don't know the proper information. Secondly, I've really appreciated the help, and sometimes just the helpful and creative ideas I hear from others, makes me feel good, like there's actually some people on here that know what they're doing and I can trust their answers (Nacho, kiteman, caitlyn's dad, 1010100100, all of you regulars, have been great help to me) *End of girlish requiem*

Posted by Punkguyta 9 years ago


My network is really screwed up

I seem to be fighting a loosing battle with my network, things just never work like they're supposed to.For example, sometimes I have to reinstall my network printer on both my laptop and my ibook to get it to print again, even when the server has been running fine sans problems for a week, it will randomly do this shit.Another example is, right now I "was" just trying to copy some music over to an external firewire drive on my server that I have shared. I had the permissions on everyone set to full access yesturday but I noticed when I restarted my server, it did not detect my drive properly until I re-seated the firewire cable :S Thusly somehow it lost my share configuration for my music folder.I set it up, but this time I left it on read only because I wasn't planning on adding any music earlier, itunes and everything was working fine when i mounted the volume. I went on there and changed the permissions back to full access just 20 minutes ago as I wanted to add some music to my drive, I right clicked in my mac os x explorer and made a new folder just to see if I could copy over now, it worked, aswell as deleting the folder.So I drag the 60mb folder of mp3 files over, and it just sat there...and sat...and sat.... until eventually giving me an error -36, upon searching about, it means "-36 ioErr I/O error (bummers)".That's straight from the horse's mouth, and that really tells me nothing, what exactly does "bummers" mean???It's frustrating for me non stop, and it does this to me with other shares in mac os x, or they will randomly disconnect for no reason, sometimes after 15 minutes or sometimes after 3 days. I will note too, I can't connect to my server now, it just says missing alias in the mac os finder. Yet I can VNC into it no problem, wowa, but just upon checking my pc just now, it can't access any shares on it either, the cursour is just spinning, however I usually have no problems with my pc's accessing it, other than the printer thing.I'm just so god damned frustrated with my set up, I've looked it up and down until I was exhausted, several times, and I know I must be missing somewhere along the way, but I just can't understand how it doesn't work like I want it to. Shares are set up, firewire is out of the question, permissions set up, mac os x can log into server, check. It's all good until I actually go to use it for something when I really need it.I'll have to restart my server now to get it to work properly again...it was fine until I vnc'd into it to change the permissions, im gonna try restarting it now and just access it from it's own screen, perhaps vnc has something to do with it.Oh and to clear up any questions before they're asked, this is how I have it configured, as quickly and detailed as I can explain it:My network starts at my ADSL +2 4 port router/modem thingy (Speedtouch 546, it has it's own connection issues on the isp's side, but they don't seem impact LAN side data flow)That then gets split off to:*Port 1: iBook G4*Port 2: 25 ft. cable to 8 port switch (I'll explain that a little further down)*Port 3: 50 ft. cable to apple airport basestation in livingroom for wifi*Port 4: My main AMD PcMy ibook is configured for DHCP with manual address 192.168.1.64The switch just makes the modem think I have like 5 computers hooked into one port lol...My airport, for a long time I thought was perfectly fine as far as usuage with my thinkpad, however, I've been noticing the last few times it's powered on, the airport connects to the thinkpad, but assigns it a 169.xxx.xxx.xx address which does not exist on my network, but if I turn the wifi off and back on, it connects fine and assigns it a dynamic ip on my 192.168.1.xxx network.Other than that, I have it in bridge mode so that it acts pretty much the same as if the laptop were wired via ethernet, vnc, filetransfers, and online games all work good albeit the wireless delay, still not bad in VNC however.My AMD machine is set up for static ip at 192.168.1.66Switch:Port 2 of my modem goes to port 8 (uplink) of my switch.*Port 1: My server (Configured for static ip at 192.168.1.65)The rest are just my B&W; g3 setup for static ip at 192.168.1.68 and an old P2 I believe is at .69 and a 1.5 amd athlon aswell setup on 192.168.1.71, all of those in no particular order except I made sure my server stays on port 1.I did have everything setup so my server was on port 2 of my modem all by itself, but I needed the switch over by my server so I moved it, however, I was still having these problems before hand, even when my server was running on a completely different motherboard!Also, maybe could someone tell me why my server won't boot unless I have a bootable disk in the drive (IE: my windows 2003 server install disk), just so it goes to "press any key to boot cd.......", of course I don't push any key, and it continues to boot into windows.However, if I dare start my server without that disc in there, it simply goes to "Invalid System Disk error, insert correct/valid disk (can't remember it word for word), and push enter"I've tried reinstalling windows server 03, and same deal, yet it's using the same hard disk for the OS that my previous motherboard used and booted from not a problem.I really apologize for the long post... but I've quite literally burnt myself out and lost all motivation with continuing to expand my computer network and so I figured I would ask for help on here for one last resort, but I know many people probably won't read it due to the long post, but I have a lot of problems I don't have answers for and I need to explain myself somewhat thoroughly or else I won't find the proper solution for the problem, now will I?

Posted by Punkguyta 9 years ago


Declaration of Independence

When in the Course of human events it becomes necessary for one people to dissolve the creative bands which have connected them with another and to assume among the powers of the earth, the separate and equal station to which the Laws of Nature and of Nature's God entitle them, a decent respect to the opinions of mankind requires that they should declare the causes which impel them to the separation.We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all makers are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Tools, Warranty and the pursuit of Customness. - That to secure these rights, Websites are instituted among Makers, deriving their just powers from the consent of the members, -That whenever any Form of Website becomes destructive of these ends, it is the Right of the People to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new Webspace, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their Ideas and Projects. Prudence, indeed, will dictate that Websites long established should not be changed for light and transient causes; and accordingly all experience hath shewn that mankind are more disposed to suffer, while evils are sufferable than to right themselves by abolishing the forms to which they are accustomed. But when a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, it is their right, it is their duty, to throw off such Webmasters, and to provide new Guards for their future security. - Such has been the patient sufferance of these Users; and such is now the necessity which constrains them to alter their former Systems of Website. The history of the present CEO of Instructables is a history of repeated injuries and usurpations, all having in direct object the establishment of an absolute Tyranny over these Members. To prove this, let Facts be submitted to a candid world.He has refused his Assent to Features, the most wholesome and necessary for the public good.He has forbidden his Staff to pass Forum Topics of immediate and pressing importance, unless suspended in their operation till his Assent should be obtained; and when so suspended, he has utterly neglected to attend to them.He has refused to pass other Laws for the accommodation of large districts of people, unless those people would relinquish the right of Representation in the Legislature, a right inestimable to them and formidable to tyrants only.He has called together legislative bodies at places unusual, uncomfortable, and distant from the depository of their Public Records, for the sole purpose of fatiguing them into compliance with his measures.He has dissolved Comments and Topics repeatedly, for opposing with (wo)manly firmness his invasions on the rights of the people.He has refused for a long time, after such dissolutions, to cause others to be elected, whereby the Legislative Powers, incapable of Annihilation, have returned to the People at large for their exercise; the State remaining in the mean time exposed to all the dangers of invasion from without, and convulsions within.He has endeavoured to prevent the population of these Users; for that purpose obstructing the Laws for Naturalization of Free accounts; refusing to pass others to encourage their migrations hither, and raising the conditions of new Appropriations of Features.He has obstructed the Administration of Justice by refusing his Assent to TOS for establishing Moderating Powers.He has made Sherrifans dependent on his Will alone for the tenure of their offices, and the amount and payment of their salaries.He has erected a multitude of New Offices, and sent hither swarms of Officers to harass our people and eat out their substance.He has kept among us, in times of peace, Standing Filters without the Consent of our legislatures.He has affected to render the Military independent of and superior to the Civil Power.He has combined with others to subject us to a jurisdiction foreign to our constitution, and unacknowledged by our TOS; giving his Assent to their Acts of pretended Legislation:For quartering large bodies of armed troops among us:For protecting them, by a mock Trial from punishment for any Murders which they should commit on the Inhabitants of these States:For cutting off our Allsteps with all parts of the world:For imposing Pro fees on us without our Consent:For depriving us in many cases, of the benefit of Refund of Fees:For transporting us beyond Seas to be tried for pretended offences:For abolishing the free System of Exchange of Ideas in a neighbouring Webspace, establishing therein an Arbitrary government, and enlarging its Boundaries so as to render it at once an example and fit instrument for introducing the same absolute rule into these directories:For taking away our Favorites, abolishing our most valuable Features and altering fundamentally the Forms of our Websites:For suspending our own Legislatures, and declaring themselves invested with power to legislate for us in all cases whatsoever.He has abdicated Government here, by declaring us out of his Protection and waging War against us.He has plundered our seas, ravaged our coasts, burnt our towns, and destroyed the lives of our people.He is at this time transporting large Armies of foreign Mercenaries to compleat the works of death, desolation, and tyranny, already begun with circumstances of Cruelty & Perfidy scarcely paralleled in the most barbarous ages, and totally unworthy the Head of a civilized website.He has constrained our fellow Citizens taken Captive on the high Seas to bear Arms against their Country, to become the executioners of their friends and Brethren, or to fall themselves by their Hands.He has excited domestic insurrections amongst us, and has endeavoured to bring on the inhabitants of our frontiers, the merciless Indian Spammers whose known rule of warfare, is an undistinguished destruction of all OSs, platforms and softwares.In every stage of these Oppressions We have Petitioned for Redress in the most humble terms: Our repeated Petitions have been answered only by repeated injury. A Prince, whose character is thus marked by every act which may define a Tyrant, is unfit to be El Jefe of a free people.Nor have We been wanting in attentions to our Hacking brethren. We have warned them from time to time of attempts by their staff to extend an unwarrantable jurisdiction over us. We have reminded them of the circumstances of our emigration and settlement here. We have appealed to their native justice and magnanimity, and we have conjured them by the ties of our common kindred to disavow these usurpations, which would inevitably interrupt our connections and correspondence. They too have been deaf to the voice of justice and of consanguinity. We must, therefore, acquiesce in the necessity, which denounces our Separation, and hold them, as we hold the rest of mankind, Enemies in War, in Peace Friends.We, therefore, the Representatives of the Members of Instructables, in Freenode on #instructables, Assembled, appealing to the Supreme Judge of the world for the rectitude of our intentions, do, in the Name, and by Authority of the good Posters of these Forums, solemnly publish and declare, That these united Dirs are, and of Right ought to be Free and Independent Sites, that they are Absolved from all Allegiance to the Robot Crown, and that all TCP/IP connection between them and the Site of Instructables, is and ought to be totally dissolved; and that as Free and Independent Sites, they have full Power to assign Mods, post content, contract sponsors, establish Advertising, and to do all other Acts and Things which Independent Sites may of right do. - And for the support of this Declaration, with a firm reliance on the protection of Divine Providence, we mutually pledge to each other our Tools, our Kiteboards, and our sacred Honor.None of the above, is, of course, intended seriously. Dur. IT'S A JOKE, peoplez. Sheesh.

Posted by Lithium Rain 9 years ago


The more natural way of cleaning things...

At my workplace we basically have a specific cleaner or cleaning product for every task you can think of. From glass over stainless to plastics and desinfectants for lots of different surfaces. After a quick look into my cleaining cabinet at home I started to wonder if I am doing something wrong as I only have a few cleaning things for my use. Asking my friends also showed they have a big bunch of cleaning chemicals, plus the bottle of bleach that everyone down here has. So I though: Your grandma only had a few cleaning products and you learned most of things you need to clean from her. Considering I grew up healthy I guess she must have done something right.... Let's clean up with the cleaning myths, shall we? 1. What cleaning chemicals do you have? For quite a few people the list would start something like this: Dishwashing liquid, window, cleaner, bathroom cleaner, soap scum remover, floor cleaner, oven cleaner, several desinfectants.... If that is true for you too than we might be on to something already. 2. What cleaning chemicals do I really need? This is a good question as everyone is a bit different but I assume a healthy household here. Of course we need certain things to clean our various surfaces properly but it is far less than waht you have been told by the TV commercials.... These days we like to think if there is a special cleaner for something then of course we have to use it to clean properly. Unless you have trades people walking through with their wet dogs several times a day and see dust storms at least twice a week you really only need a few things. So let's get to the basics: 3. Old style cleaning and what you need for it - really the only stuff required to keep all clean and sanitised. a) Methylated spirit b) Clear ammonia - cloudy ammonia works too but be aware that the added soap can be a problem that leaves streakes c) Hydrogen peroxide - pool grade to be cheap in the long run d) Orange oil - citrus oil works great too if you prefer a different smell e) Soap - just basic soap, these stinky, slightly yellow and hard bricks - no fancy smelly soap ;) f) Several cleaning brushes but you should already have those g) Windows cleaning tools - the basic microfibre cloth and squeegee will do h) Several microfibre cloths - bigger ones for floors and walls, smaller for windows and the rest I) Yesterdays newspaper j) Baking soda With those few things we have everything to clean whatever comes up and if bought in bulk comes down to a few cents per bottle compared to a few dollars when you buy all the stuff you don't need. Lets figure out what the stuff does and how to use it: 4. Mixing and what to use it for.... The alcohol is a really good remover for everything greasy and also desinfects the surfaces. A quick spray and wipe on your bench is all that you need to remove oily residue or the mess from the kids. Mixed with a bit of soap and water (about 50-50) also removes sticky stuff like jam or syrup. If we use about 50ml of alcohol, 50ml of clear ammonia and 900ml of water we get one liter of really good window cleaner. The modern way is to use microfibre for the cleaning and a squeegee to get it dry, the old way just uses a cloth and then the window is "polished" with some old newspaper. The black ink reacts with the alcohol and form a mild abrasive while the paper soaks up the moisture, the result is a prefectly clean window in under 3 minutes. Orange oil is not only a powerful degreaser but also lifts old dirt or even glue residue. Used directly it will get rid of the remains from sticky tape, stickers and everything that other cleaners fails to get off - smoth surface and non soaking of course. 50ml of it with 50ml of ammonia and 100ml of alcohol per bucket makes a good florr cleaner and your house smells nice when done. Works best if you can use a microfibre cloth or floor wiper to dry the surface with it. In the kitchen we can find a lot of surfaces that are greasy and we already covered that bit, so lets get to the though stuff. The kitchen sink can become dull looking although it is not scratched. This is due to hard water, food residue, soap and other things. Best is of course to wipe it and dry it after use but who really does this every day? A pot scrubbing pad with some baking soda on it does the trick here. Make the pad nly moist and sprinkle the baking soda on it. Rub over the stainless and if too dry add a few drops of water. Once done rinse off and enjoy the difference. For hard to clean or badly turtured sinks you can try a ball of aluminium foil and coke - use it like a polish. The oven is often our worst nightmare. The cooktop is not far behind. But even here we can have a chance to clean without too much hard work or bad chemicals. Of course the best way is to prevent these spills and boil overs ;) For the cooktop some hot water and baking soda will soften the baked on stuff. Simply remove what you can with the hot water and then sprinkle the surface with baking soda. Cover all with the paper towels and if not wet enough add a bit more hot water so all shets are soaked. Leave ove night and wipe clean the next day. The oven is a bit of a problem once the side and back wall are filthy. If baking soda with a pot scrubber won't do the trick get some of these steel pads with soap in it. The soap in them is special in terms that you only need a little bit of water to remove almost anything with them - and they won't scrath enamelled surfaces. On the bottom we often have badly burnt in things that are next to impossible to fully remove. I suggest to cover the same way as the cooktop but also to add some orange oil. Just make a thick paste of baking soda and orange oil and wrok it into the soiled surface. Cover with wet paper towels and leave over night. Now you don't want to flood your oven, so that means you need to use a sponge or thick cloth that is big enough to wipe off the surfaces you soaked the day before. As the orange oil really is oil it pays off to use some alcohol in the cleaning water to get rid of the oil and grease a bit easier. Don't expect to see a clean and shiny surface after one treatment if the oven was badly misused, you might have to repeat the procedure a few times. If in doubt use the soapy steel pads for last clean and before soaking over night again. Three to four treatments are usually enough to clean even the worst disaster that can happen in an oven unless you baked it in for months... 5. Desinfecting and mouldy spots.... As said, the methylated spirit is basically just pure alcohol and kill almost anything that might harm you. But sometimes that just is not enough. And who really wants to spend an hour or longer to clean some mouldy spots in the shower or try to cover the smell by spraying room freshener? As a lst resort for everything I use Hydrogen Peroxide. The supermarket grade is only 3% and usually badly overpriced, so I suggest to get a small canister of pool grade peroxide. Do yourself a favour and ask them to install a tap on it - you don't want to do it yourself unless you already know how bad pool grade peroxide is! For your own safety when handling it I strongly recommend wearing long rubber gloves, nitrile is better but please no latex as it could start to burn when getting in contact with the peroxide. For high grade desinfecting or the removal of mouldy areas I recommend to dilute 1:5, one part of peroxide to 5 parts of water. Only for the mould removal on tiled, plastic, glass or metal surfaces you can use the peroxide pure from the container - but please add face protection when cleaning! Some spray bottles work with peroxide some just start leaking badly, if you want try an old bottle of chlorine based cleaner after really flushing everything out. The peroxide breaks down any organic material it comes into contact with, so not just the mould you want to remove but also your skin or eyes if you allow contact. On the skin you see white areas after contact and they won't go away until all the oxygen in the skin is gone that was left by the peroxide. If you act too late it means you might loose some skin flakes. The sure sign of overlook exposure on your skin is a burning sensation in the area - this only happens when the amount was big enough or your clothes got soaked. On your surfaces to clean you will notice bubbles forming quite quickly - this mean the peroxide is reacting with something, usually organic material. Let it bubble... Once it stops bubbling the surface is either sterile or the peroxide is used up, if it bubbles when adding fresh peroxide onto it then there is still crap left ;) It really helps to brush off the surface after each treatment as a lot of loose material will be flushed out when rinsing off. Once it looks and smells clean again it usually means it is clean :) 6. Special case: Wood... Be it wooden floorboards, furniture or just your chopping board - always try what the manufacturer recommends first! Untreated wood should never be cleaned with anything wet! Sealed wood, like floorboards or things with varnish on it to make it water proof can be cleaned the same way as mentioned above - but I would leave out the ammonia as some wood treatments simply won't tolerate it and might go dull instead of returning nice and shiny - spot testing required if you think you have to use ammonia as well! Orange oil itself makes a great furniture cleaner if the surface is smooth and sealed, but if it is not it means the oil soaks into the wood together with the stuff you want to clean off! It also takes off several paints and types of varnish if you work it hard enough and give it some time, so avoid this and be quick instead of forgetting to finnish the job ;) Always try to wet the surface as little as possible and wipe fully dry as soon as possible! Ok, good start but what is the real benefit? For me the actual benefit is that I know what I am using and exposing myself to. Just reading what is in most cleaning products we find at the supermarket makes me want to clean again after using them, just to remove their residues... I admit it might take some time to get used to mixing and just having a few ingredients for the cleaning but it does work great. Especially if you or your kids are already sensitive to certain chemicals or just of poor health in general you might see the benefit quite quickly. Some people really don't like the smell of ammonia but unless you are sensitive to it there is nothing to worry when using the household grade as we always dilute it down massively anyway. A good way to avoid the worst stink is by mixing it outside with the wind from behind. I won't say that certain commercial products are bad, harmful or not good enough for the job. Some are actually worth to have in some cases but I just say it is better to only have a hand full of chemicals that are not too bad instead of an endless list of things were we don't even know what's inside. For me the best is your surprise when it actually works better than you expected and report your findings here.

Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago