I know sodium and calcium are both strong alkalines and make hydrogen gas and ignite it when put in water. So is it illegal to sell it completely or do you need to have a license.
Question by chinarian 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I know that calcium chloride can corrode metal, but does it require direct contact or can it generate fumes that could corrode? Here's the issue: I have a wood stove and I place a container of Damp Rid inside over the summer to absorb moisture. It looks like the Damp Rid plastic container had a small crack, so moisture passed through the calcium chloride and through the container and through the back of the stove After a while I noticed a pool of water behind the stove. I traced the problem back to the Damp Rid container, cleaned up the moisture inside and outside the stove, and replaced the Damp Rid. At the same time I noticed areas all over the exterior of the stove where the finish was coming off, areas that were not in contact with the water. In fact, at least one section of the stove that had direct contact shows no sign of a problem. I'm trying to discover if the calcium chloride caused the problem, or if it's something else causing the damage.
Topic by corgaff 7 years ago
In cold climes, snow buildup on roofs often leads to ice dams, usually at the gutter. When the snow melts, the dam can route water under roof shingles and cause roof damage.Is Calcium Chloride safe to use on roofs? (Sodium Chloride is not, due to it's corrosiveness.)
Question by gmoon 10 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
After my experiment which turned out to be lead oxide, I did something else. I bought a lump of Calcite, and found out it dissolves in acid. Therefore, I couldn't resist breaking off some lumps and putting those in vinegar. For at least a week, there was no significant change in the container, but after another week, all of the vinegar was gone, and no sign of the calcite lumps either. only a white and a pink residue. What I want to know is, is this Calcium? Or something else?
Question by necropolian 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
What chemical(s) do I need to add to the pool water that is safe for bathers and will force the immediate precipitation of calcium carbonate? My calcium hardness is at 2500ppm and I need to get it down to less than 200ppm. I want to precipitate out the calcium carbonate and then vacuum it out.
Question by goodgnus 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I need calcium chloride for a school chemistry project and i dont know where to get it
Question by legomaster50 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
How can I get soap scum - and calcium deposits off glass shower doors? It seems to build up especially in the bottom half of the shower door? I hate hours of scrubbing, so I'm looking for something that does not require lots of scrubbing, please! Thank you!!!
Question by Leosmama 8 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I want to make tofu from store bought soy milk. I need nigari. I could also use magnesium sulfate or calcium chloride. How do I make any or all of these?
Question by rookie1 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I'm looking to build a forge, and I was hoping to use the same bricks that are on the outside of my house. They're Calcium Silicate stones, I don't know if they're meant for fire, because they're primarily decorative on houses these days. Will these crack/ explode in a charcoal fired forge?
Question by Deathcapt 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I moved into a new rental and it was a bit neglected to say it nice.My longest nouisance however was the old toilet.Calcium and urine stains turned the bottom, where the water sits, into a black, crusty mass.Toilet cleaners of all sorts provide a nice smaell, but even bleach or things like jiffy did not do a thing.Hours were wasted trying to scrape, brush or just swear the filth off but no luck.All I managed was to turn the black into a slightly grey crust, still ugly.One day I had the honor to clean my water kettle and to remove the calcium deposits in it.Of course I was lazy and just some delimer, citric acid, as instructed.Let it sit a few hours, wipe it out, nice.Hmmmm.....Hold on a second, what would happen if I use that stuff in the toilet?!?So I flushed some hot water through to warm up the bowl, then about 1 liter of boiling hot water with two packs of coffee machine cleaner dissolved in it.Let it sit over night only to be very disappointed the next morning.It looked like nothing changed.Unlike pots and kettles my toilet appeared to still have al crusts stuck in it.When I flushed however most of it just flushed away!A little brushing and the rest was gone too - a clean and white toilet again!No more calcium and other hard deposits :)
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago | last reply 7 weeks ago
I bought a product called "damp rid "in a hardware store that was used for removing moisture from hamper area,laundry rooms, to prevent mildew. i realized the pelted looked familiar and it was calcium chloride. i want to make my own as i have access to a big bag of calcium chloride. it looks like there is a piece of tyvek/ or other moisture passing membrane on one side of the top upper half, the other 3 sides of the bag look like a mylar type bag. The seams all seam to be sealed, except the top has a piece of plastic snapped-sea;ed over it, with a couple very small holes that go into the top half of the bag. the top plastic piece also has a hanger loop.. when i bought it the calcium chloride was in the top hang and the bottom half was empty. There looks like a plastic seam weld separating the calcium from the bottom half, and i noticed that are a couple 1/4 inch gaps in the seam. the calcium, chloride draws the moisture out of the air and turns it into water, which falls to the bottom half of the bag.pretty cool device, and seems i t would be able to make, if i can find a source for mylar or whatever this material is. i would also have to make the seams, not sure if glue would work, maybe make a clamp like device , rather than the welds, this way i could just empty the water and replace the calcium chloride, no reason to throw it out. anyone seen these devices, i noticed they have a www with the same name, they may have pictures. Also looking for a source for mylar and tyvek. I am not sure if the postal envelopes would work, i would also like to scrounge a sheet of tyvek to use as a ground-cloth or emergency shelter when out on my bicycle and the t storms hit. i haven't seen it except in big rolls, i guess i should keep a lookout for construction sites trash areas.otherwise i am not sure where i could get a 10 ft piece. i will take the bag apart later to dissect the workings and see if i can measure the thickness of the mylar
Topic by escapefromyonkers 8 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Hi, I'm making a flashbang that's part Thermate using Tetranitrate's Thermite Instructable* and I would like to know if I would be able to replace the iron oxide in the mixture with calcium oxide for a bit of added white. The flashbang is inteaded to be (temporarily) blinding. Thanks, BlueGasMask * www.instructables.com/id/Thermite/
Question by BlueGasMask 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I've saturated it in white vinegar as well as CLR with no success. Thanks.
Question by cfidura 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hello after wanting to build a tesla coil, but first reading up on how to make a HV output supply from a microwave transformer, then realising i want an arc furnace to melt pool salt(calcium chloride, or if possible, carbonate) in order to make calcium metal, or calcium carbide, via electrolysis what do i need to do, to build an arc furnance from a microwave transformer? clearly it seems very much able to generate an arc, with a significant amoutn of heat, but i dont know how to safely use it to do what i want. at the moment i already do own a microwave transformer, its fuse clips and all the other junk form the microwave transformer. i also want to know if its possible to melt lead with an arc furnace, as i want to do some lead casting wihtout using expensive propane.
Question by oldmanbeefjerky 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
While there are a few archival sprays that reduce the degradation and yellowing of paper after the fact, that is not what I'm looking for. I'm curious as to whether I can add something to the pulp in the process of handcrafting my own paper. I've heard that adding calcium carbonate while it's still in a slurry can neutralize the acidity of the lignin in the pulp. If so, couldn't I just throw a few Tums in there? And how much per batch?
Question by Asura-Valkyrie 7 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Me and my friends are having a competition on who can fill their periodic tables with the purest element samples for the least amount of money. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for how to get less common elements such as gallium, tungsten, calcium, sodium, etc.
Question by pyrorower 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi, i am trying to make hydrogen sulfide for the purpose of reacting it with ammonium hydroxide to create ammonium sulfide. however, since my parent think that concentrated hydrochloric acid is too dangerous to work with, especially since i can only get huge 20L bottles of it, i have decided to quest for a new acid to react with calcium polysulfide, to get hydrogen sulfide, thats when i came across solid oxalic acid. at first glimps, i saw that it said, hazardous, extremely corrosive acid, i thought "yes", this would work, i could react this with the lime sulfur , but then after some research i discoverd that no-one in the history of the world has ever documented the practical reaction of oxalic acid with a sulfide, in order to make hydrogen sulfide. so i want to ask , will oxalic acid, when mixed with calcium polysulfide, generate hydrogen sulfide? another reason though i might point out why i dont think oxalic acid will react with calcium polysulfide, is because it is a solid crystal acid, one that does not evapourate into gas like sulfuric or hydrochloric acid, and i cannot find anywhere documented either of non gaseous acids being able to react with calcium sulfide to make hydrogen sulfide, according to what i have found out, only nitric, sulfuric and hydrochloric acids will work. but this is also the reason i want to use oxalic acid over hydrochloric because i want to boil off the hydrogen sulfide through a tube and into concentrated ammonium hydroxide, but if there is hydrochloric acid in the solution, it would very likely boil off as well, which would be something of a hassle.
Question by oldmanbeefjerky 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I tried replacing the filter, cleaning the hard white stuff(calcium deposits?), and the metal plate. I even bought a water conditioner shaped like a baby rattle that stows in the water tank, but no luck.
Question by aaronjehall 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
...or simply plaster, is a type of building material based on calcium sulfate hemihydrate... It is created by heating gypsum to about 150Â°C....When the dry plaster powder is mixed with water, it re-forms into gypsum...So...if I heated the gypsum to +302F (150C), it would turn back into plaster of paris, to be reused agian? Of course you would need to powder the used plaster (gypsum), but would it work?
Topic by John Smith 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
Http://andthatsthewayitis.net/2011/05/17/salt-does-not-melt-ice/ thought about running a chainsaw to remove ice from roof gutters. rethought that. sodium chloride? corrode metal gutter and hurt plants. mag sulfate? have it on hand, but above link indicates it wont work. would it work if baked to drive off h2o? stuf comes hydrated. calcium chloride? directly on metal?
Topic by Toga_Dan 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
They had Polyacrylic acid (CAS# 9003-01-4) in them, which was being used as a calcium dispersant/scale inhibitor. I was wondering with a good rinse, wash and soak if they would be ok for use in a rainwater collection system that feeds a garden. I discovered that that specific chemical is also used in all kinda of cosmetics, and in many of different pills (Musinex as an example) as a time release agent. I figure if I clean them good, how bad could it be if it's something that you would ingest anyway?
Question by Bajimer 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I was wondering how much a human body is worth, so I worked it out.I based it on a 100kg human, to keep the numbers simple, assuming commercial use of the materials, and worked in GBP:Oxygen (65kg) 32,274.16Carbon (18kg) 270.00Hydrogen (10kg) 10.00Nitrogen (3kg) 4.00Calcium (1.5kg) 2173.91Phosphorus (1kg) 0.25There are other elements in smaller amounts ("enough sulphur to make a box of matches, but nothing to strike them on"), so we'll add a few pounds for those, and the whole thing comes out at: 34,750 of your English pounds!So, who is going to start the first people-recycling centre? Soylent Green has nothing on this!
Topic by Kiteman 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
The picture shows what I am talking about. So far we have tried more heat, less heat, adding TSP to the detergent, cleaning out the dishwasher with one of those put it in by itself and run cleaning agents, turning on heated dry,, running with vinegar and detergent, running with vinegar instead of detergent, and using jetdry. None of these things worked in any combination we have tried. The substance is dry and slightly slick if I rub it between my fingers. It is not calcium deposits, or if it is, they are mixed with something else. Other than that I don't know what it is. It tends to stick to everything but less so to glass and moreso to plastic. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Question by finfan7 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I was trying to figure out how to make inexpensive electrolyte pills. From my calculations, one could make the daily recommended equivalent (assuming no other food has said nutrients): Table Salt - 1 tsp (primarily: NaCl, gives sodium) Salt Substitute - 2 tsp (primarily: KCl, gives potassium) Milk of Magnesia - 1 tbsp (primarily: Mg(OH)2, gives magnesium) Antacid Tablets - 5 pills (primarily: CaCO3, gives calcium) This could be useful to endurance athletes and people who are practicing prolonged water-only fasting. Has any of you tried to make something like this before? What other essential nutrients would you include? Any recommendations for a phosphorus source?
Question by vreinkymov 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Currently i am exploring lots of different ways to make potassium chlorate, and i would like to know, in nurdrages instructable which makes potassium chlorate from bleach and potassium chloride, would it be possible to use potassium sulfate instead, as i can easily get potassium sulfate in large amounts cheaply. the reason i am asking this is because in other sites which have otherwise proved unreliable, there have been instructions on using calcium hypochlorite and either potassium chloride, carbonate or sulfate as the donor, instead of just chloride. and so i would like to know if this method works with potassium and bleach method as done by nurdrage
Question by oldmanbeefjerky 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hello there, I've always wanted to dye my hair grey but didn't want to go through the hassle and the possible hair damage of bleaching. I came across someone selling chalk sticks for temporary hair colouring and was wondering if a cheaper, liquid version could be made to cover all the hair instead of a small part. My initial idea was to use calcium carbonate and grey food colouring with maybe a little bit of talcum powder which will then be mixed with some water so it can be applied easier. These are the ingredients in the colouring I want to use: glycerol, propylene glycol, silicon dioxide, titanium dioxide, vegetable carbon Is there anything here I should be concerned about? As I'm going for a grey colour I was also looking at using a small amount of activated charcoal or some other skin safe fine black powder. Is this the best way or are there better alternatives? Advice will be appreciated. Thanks for reading.
Topic by egrayton 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
How i have been thinking about another concept of making potassium nitrate (used in black powder) from a garden fertiliser, potassium carbonate (k2co3). potassium carbonate can be bought from here in Australia at Bunnings warehouse so it should be available anywhere else. the other substance you need is any nitrate (eg. calcium nitrate). the metal in the nitrate should have 2 electrons in its outer shell so there are 2 potassiums and 2 nitrates. You dissolve both the chemicals in water but do not over saturate so there is solid on the bottom. next you mix the two solutions together. a solid should form and move to the bottom. then filter out the carbonate by pouring it through a paper towel and collecting the leftover liquid and throw away the filtered out solid ((metal) carbonate). boil off the water in the solution and then leave to dry. this should be potassium nitrate shouldn't it? any suggestions or criticism? reply back thanks.
Topic by dellboy 11 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I went to test an old 2lb fire extinguisher we had by pressing the green test button and, it didn't work. The fire extinguisher was a BC type dry chemical fire extinguisher. The label reads (CONTENTS OF BC DRY CHEMICAL POWDER: SODIUM BICARBONATE, MICA, CALCIUM STEARATE, NUISANCE DUST, IRRITANT; HMIS 0-0-0.) I took the chemical out to use as crude sodium bicarbonate, and now I want to use the bottle. My plan is to keep the labels on, find a cap like they use on most aluminum water bottles, and clean the inside out really well. The question I have is, is it safe? It says the contents are non-toxic, but I would still want to clean it really well. What would I clean it with? Would I have to coat the inside of the bottle because of the metal, (powder coating type place) and if so, what type of coating? Thanks!
Topic by tinstructable 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Basically I want to know what lab chemicals you want to make, if you know how to make any useful chemicals. please post, I am not responsible for and injury's, fatality's, or "bad things" of any sort that come from this thread, all things posted here are to assumed for informational purposes only.
Topic by mr.space 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I just had to clean my thermos prior the tournament tomorrow. A quick peek inside revealed some stubborn residue. Propably furring (chalky deposits) from the boiling water i use to make tea in them... (we have quite "hard" water with lots of calcium). The throat of the bottle (Full-metal thermos) was too narrow for normal cleaning-brushes... I fortunately had a bag of rice standing around and thought "Hm... Hard and small things"! So i quickly added half a handfull of dry rice in the thermos and a bit of cold water (2-3 spoons). Then i shook it a bit and poured the rice out. The inside was quite clean and almost "pristine" again. This method should also work for thermoscans with glass-interiors. Another (better) way of doing that is propably (but ONLY if you have a METAL-Interior!) to add a hand of sand or fine gravel with some wather (Maybe even a bit of dishsoap) and give it a shake. Again: Only do the sand/gravel if your thermos does not have a glass-interior!! Have fun and enjoy a good drink while outside! :)
Topic by Orngrimm 6 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I threw some hay off my lawn and some green weecds into a garbage can, some sugar and yeast and formented it to slug beer but the slugs did not like it. It then fermented further to vinegar, and a crust of green "Mold?" covered it. seems to have protected the vinegar from further fermentation. I tried a second bigger batch ( morning glory weeds) with less sugar but after a few days of good fermenting it went rotten and stinky. So there are probably thresholds for sugar content. Would the yeast be a way of adding fertilizer to organic gardens? Yeast can (I think) convert urea and nitrate to protein. Perhaps some green stuff has enough sugar to work without sugar addition. vine prunings? maybe. The first batch, i put bleach in to kill off microbes before I added water and yeast. Perhaps hydrated lime would work instead of bleach and also get the ph good for yeast fermentation. This might be a cheap way of liming your garden. (Here in victoria, hydrated type s lime is cheaper than limestone for garden addition. (But it contains more calcium!) The "yeast tea" or vinegar tea could be used on the garden and the weeds could then be transfered to normal compost or used as mulch. It might be an alternative way of using diseased materials of composting seedy weeds to kill the seeds. Brian
Topic by gaiatechnician 9 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Today with my friend, i made a saturated solution of hydrogen sulfide by boiling aqeous hydrogen sulfide solution made by reacting hydrochloric acid with calcium sulfide. then what we did was we mixed the solution with ammonium hydroxide with hopes that as simply logic would predict, that we would get ammonium sulfide. now, the end result was nothing like ammonium sulfide, and was actually almost completely scentless, aside from the strong odor of exess ammonia, though we have not yet removed any of the mixed solution from its sealed container yet. i would like to ask, did we make ammonium sulfide suitable for use in a stink bomb? and if not, what did we do wrong? in multiple previous questions i have asked if hydrogen sulfide and ammonium hydroxide will mak ammonium sulfide, however, in all questions lemonie and others change the subject and spam the questions with warnings about the dangers of hydrogen sulfide, but refuse to actually answer the question, and so have forced me to go trial and error in the practical rather than the theoretical first. we do not plan on re-attempting the experiment until we know exactly what our outcome will be, which is , if we either mix a solution of hydrogen sulfide and ammonium hydroxide, or bubble hydrogen sulfide gas through ammonium hydroxide solution, will we get ammonium sulfide! also whoever best answers the question will recieve a best answer, also if you know any other ways to make ammonium sulfide, please do tell
Question by oldmanbeefjerky 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Beware, this download can can you into trouble with law enforcement as well as injuring yourself, others and property. Read with care, and use your common sense. There are 219 items, but below is just a selection. Versions of this book have been on various sites on the www for some years. www.archive.org/details/Anarchy_Cookbook ANARCHY COOKBOOK VERSION 2000 Pictures and Reformatting for Word6 by Louis Helm Table of Contents 1.Counterfeiting Money 2.Credit Card Fraud 4.Picking Master Locks 5.The Arts of Lockpicking I 6.The Arts of Lockpicking II 8.High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox 27.How to make Potassium Nitrate 28.Exploding Lightbulbs 29.Under water igniters 30.Home-brew blast cannon 35.Phone Systems Tutorial I 36.Phone Systems Tutorial II 37.Basic Alliance Teleconferencing 38.Aqua Box Plans 39.Hindenberg Bomb 41.Phone Systems Tutorial III 42.Black Box Plans 43.The Blotto Box 44.Blowgun 45.Brown Box Plans 46.Calcium Carbide Bomb 47.More Ways to Send a Car to Hell 48.Ripping off Change Machines 49.Clear Box Plans 91.Remote Informer Issue #4 92.Remote Informer Issue #5 93.Phreaker's Guide to Loop Lines 94.Ma-Bell Tutorial 95.Getting Money out of Pay Phones 96.Computer-based PBX 97.PC-Pursuit Port Statistics 98.Pearl Box Plans 99.The Phreak File 100.Red Box Plans 101.RemObS 102.Scarlet Box Plans 103.Silver Box Plans 104.Bell Trashing 105.Canadian WATS Phonebook 106.Hacking TRW 107.Hacking VAX & UNIX 108.Verification Circuits 109.White Box Plans 110.The BLAST Box www.archive.org/details/Anarchy_Cookbook
Topic by Lateral Thinker 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Some people can't be without coffee, and some love to keep thei machines as clean as possible.Teste is all and if is not right the day already starts bad...But what is that stuff really?It needs to be food safe, shall not damage or corrode and part of the machine and of course can't be harful or even toxic.The main ingredient is an acid.Some acids are considered to be very corrosive on almost anything, others can set set organic material on fire and some even etch glass.Limestone, coffee staind and build up as well as most minerals that might build up in your machine magically disappear with just some added water and time.Our candidate is named Citric Acid!Very weak on things we thing about when comes to strong acids but quite powerful on the offending stuff in our kettles and coffee machines.Knowing that means we could abandone quite a lot of expensive and specialised cleaning produduct for a fully natural and harmless alternative.Calcium deposits in the bath clean up really nice and quick with it - but read the warnings and dangers below!Same for long abused toilets as mentioned in my topic about it.Stainless steel cooking pots or pans are still a favourite for some people, the pain of cleaning them once something really burnt on badly not so much.Vinegar is a prefered choice here, if you stand the smell when heating it up.Citric acid can not only provide the same cleaning strength but also deal with the things vinegar can't.In some cases stainless steel can develop rusty pits or discoloration from overheating (not trying to make it glow!).And where vinegar just cleans off the burnt in food, citric acid also clean the steel itself.Up to a degree even badly discolored things come back to a silvery look if you give it some time to work.Ever had some rusty parts and tried vinegar to get them back to bare steel?Coke can add some slight protection by passivating the steel, but like on stainless steel citric acid can do more.Unless highly concentrated and hot it won't really affect and good steel quickly.On the other hand it is really aggressive on impurities, rust and certain hard to clean off residues.Words of warning, wisdom and advise!A little bit of hydrochloic acid in your stomach is not only required but also harmless.You wouldn't want in a concentrated form anywhere on your in you though....The same logic is true with citric acid - you can make some nice artificial lemonade with it to enjoy on a hot summers day.But highly conecentrate or even heated up the story is quite different!Proper protection should be as obvious as proper handling.And mishaps should be dealt with lots of water or baking soda right away.I stress this out as my last example will highlight the dangers of citric acid that are not reall known to the public.And if it is that dangerous for some things or even just one that you should not take the risk with living tissue when dealing with higher concentrations or temperatures.Side effect that could possibly be lethal!Shiny things are nice and even nicer if clean and sparkling.Chrome plating or using chrome even is plastic coatings is still common.A lot of tap and bathware is chrome plated, same for a lot of things we have in our households or tool boxes.As tempting as it might be to use citric acid to clean something that just might contain chrome you should not try it!Chrome is almost all of its salt forms is highly toxic, same for most if not all byproducts of chemical reactions involving chrome.Cirtic acid is extremely aggressive on chrome!The tell tale sign is a discoloration of your solution into a greenish-yellow tint!Another a distinct and really unpleasant smell!Some steels include chrome too, so if you notice a bad smell when cleaning then rinse all properly and using other ways of cleaning the item!Corroded chrome plated parts might benefit from a treatment though despite the risk.Unlike sanding the chrome down and contaminating everything with fine and toxic dust you only need to deal with liquids and breathing protection - doing it outside or in really well ventilated areas is a must do anyways here.Dsiposal of anything that caused a bad smell or yellow-greenish discolartion should be done in a sealed container at your local waste disposal center.Please lable it and and also mention it contains chrome dissolved in citric acid!If you placed chrome plated parts into a solution of citric acid by accident and only realise once the smell interrupted your movie session then first go outside!!!This means preferably every living being in the house!If you have use brething protection in the form of carbon filters but either way try to vent the house first by trying to open what you can from the outside.The removal of the metal and taking the container outside should be done as quickly and safely as possible.Unless you are prepared and know what you so stay outside, call the fire brigade and state what happend!A severe reaction with chrome is nothing you should risk your health for!Never, ever dispose of anything that cause a bad smell or discoloration through drain!Bring to a disposal center and keep possible poisons of of the enviroment!
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago