Male or Female Instructables, which are more looked at?

I need to know if I should cater more to male or female viewers?  I think more men are on this website than females but I was woundering if anyone could tell me the truth.  I would also like to know the adv age of people on this web site so I can cater to those ages better???  Thanks Denae :)

Posted by denaetak 6 years ago


BUD Big Ugly dish, satellite dishes re-use ideas/

I have searched with google to get a lot of satellite dish re-use ideas (gazebo seems to be tops)....I'd like to see more ideas, especially if catered to cats and dogs.

Posted by katerlyn 7 years ago


Maker as business

I have a question that has been bugging me.  is it unethical to open a business that caters to makers? I have a million and one hobbies and some of them run along with my work studies and i was just wondering if its been done to just open up a shop where people can get together to build projects together, or to sell items that are made as a business. it would seem to be a good idea from my perspective and seems to help all.   

Posted by mookiejones 6 years ago


Outsourcing CAD Drafting Services

CAD Drafting Services Unlock the Future" Yantram is an AutoCAD outsourcing service catering to many consultants, CAD Scanning Service Company, contractors, engineers in the construction & real estate industry.CAD Drafting Services in India proves the trust clients keep on them by delivering high-end CAD Drafting Services like HVAC Drafting, Architectural CAD Drafting, from the group of expert CAD Designing Professionals (CAD Draftsman). There are various forms of commenting Yantram is an Auto CAD outsourcing service catering to many consultants, firm, contractors, engineers in the construction & real estate industry. As being PDF to CAD Conversion Company Today's most competitive work enables us to work with more safety. Drawings received for review must be returned with comments, even if the comments are "all perfect; go ahead" or "this is totally not what we wanted; we are finishing this off ourselves". In each case the architectural CAD drafting service is on hold, waiting for the next move, and, is technically, on the client's hire till then.In this article, we look at the prevalent processes in reviewing drawings remotely when outsourcing architectural CAD drafting services. Yantram Outsourcing CAD Drafting Company in India support your 2D CAD drafting services , CAD Design & CAD Conversion Services requirements. Our team is highly proficient CAD Designer and expert in CAD Design &CAD Drafting Process. Author: Ruturaj Desai Yantram Architectural CAD Drafting http://architectural-design.outsourcing-services-india.com

Posted by cadyantram 4 years ago


Facebook group for people living in small spaces.

I have just started a Facebook group for people living in small spaces, by small I don't mean downsizing from 3000 to 2500 square feet i mean genuine small spaces of one room or a small studio flat, the idea is to cater to people living in tens rather than thousands or even hundreds of square feet. I will be actively promoting Instructables within this group and will with the publishers permission post links to anything I think will be of interest to members . If you have published or know of an 'ible that would suit the group please let me know particularly if it involves recycling or reusing in any manner. Thanks in advance for your input. NG. https://www.facebook.com/groups/766528456823361/

Posted by Nostalgic Guy 1 year ago


Microsoft Office for Linux

I heard last week that Microsoft will be porting their popular Office suite to Linux this year. As an avid Linux user, and a firm believer in the free software movement, I must say that this has a certain odor to it. Do we honestly think that a company that has used phrases like "a cancer that infects everything it touches," to describe Linux will just start waving the olive branch and cater to the "cancer" as a valued customer? This peace offering calls to mind a certain wooden horse I think we all know. "either the Greeks are hiding, shut inside those beams, or the horse is a battle-engine, geared to breach our walls, spy on our homes, come down on our city, overwhelm us- or some other deception's lurking deep inside it. Trojans, never trust that horse. Whatever it is, I fear the Greeks, especially bearing gifts." One thing is for sure, considering how Microsoft constantly violates the privacy of their customers, rest assured that this horse WILL spy on our homes.

Posted by romanyacik 4 years ago


A Level choices

 I'm not after anything in particular here just want some opinions. After recently applying to my local sixth form college I'm curious as to...well I just want to talk really. My options are: 1.Chemistry 2.Physics 3.Mathematics 4.DT: Product design - Materials Reserve:Computing GCSE: P= predicted grade, C = current grade (Or already gained GCSE), L/10 = how much I enjoy, G/10 = how capable I am. Maths: P= A*, C=V. high A, L8/10, G7/10 Physics: P=A*, C=A*, L9/10, G9/10 ICT: P=D(distinction), C=D, L7/10, G10/10 BPE: P=A*, C=A/A*, L6/10, G8/10 Chemistry: P=A*, C=A*, L9/10, G9/10 DT (Electronics):P=A*, C=A*, L9/10, G9/10 Catering: P=A*, C=A, L5/10, G8/10 Music: P=A/A* , C=B/A, L5/10, G7/10 Biology: P=A/A*, C=A/A*, L8/10, G7/10 English Lit.: P=A*, C=A, L6/10, G6/10 English Lang.: P=A/A*, C= B/A, L6/10, G6/10 PE: No GCSE Anyone else recently applied for sixth form? Currently at sixth form college or university? Any advice? I reckon I am going to end up (sounds so negative) in Engineering or Science, whether I choose University or an apprenticeship etc. ANY advice appreciated.

Posted by DELETED_zoltzerino 8 years ago


Recycle Heaven

I would like to propose a new Contest category, if it doesn't already exist. I would love to see a contest where EVERY LAST PART of your project must be made from used recycled old junk. Anything can qualify, just as long as it came out of something that was previously used and must be at least 10 years old. Items could be grouped into sub-categories, electronics, papercrafts, automobiles, etc, etc. Maybe such a contest already exists, but it would be nice to see people using a little more of the old stuff. I'm seeing projects from 3D printers and arduino powered robots, and that is super cool, and I want to try those projects, but that kind of thing caters to only the techno-geek with half a life time of tools and knowledge. Most of the people who come to this site aren't that tech savy, and likely don't have a Raspberry Pi, or other Arduino mini-comp to program those super-cool projects. Lets Dumb it down a bit for the rest of us. I'd like to see more posts that can be done without having to go out for anything, unless it's to go to the tool shed or Garage for that old blender you were meaning to fix 20 years ago! This site rocks! I come here every day, and it inspires me even though I don`t have some of the knowledge. But if a project posted on here costs more than a retail version of it does, then I think the point of this site has been missed entirely. 

Posted by OculumForamen 3 years ago


Joule robber - a better joule thief....

I had a look at some of our 'ibles for the famous Joule Thief circuit. While checking a few of the creations and checking their performance I noticed a massive flaw: Only LED's with very low power consumptions can be used. After some trial and error I was able to create a slightly modified version that not only lights white and blue 5mm LED's but also the very powerful Cree Led's - the later would require a suitable transistor to handle the load. I only used a salvaged BC556 transistor, so the LED starts working at around 0.5V, brightness is adjustable within certain limits to cater for the battery state. So instead of using a limited circuit that basically just doubles the input voltage with the focus of extreme low power consumption, my circuit is aimed on single cell battery lamps that might need more power. Using a very low voltage transistor with minimal losses would still provide a power source for batteries that are under 0.5V, while using a bigger transistor like Tip142 or 2N3055 and a modified transformer can drive a CFL lamp from two AA batteries, single cell if you don't mind a warm transistor. Biggest improvement however is that I don't use a toroid core, which makes winding so much easier :) I am not too good in drawing circuits and prefer the direct solder method for my prototypes but if there interest I would take the time to make some pics and draw a circuit for an Instructable. But with so many similar circuits already out there I wanted to get some feedback first.

Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago


Webdesign / Attractive, smart, effective webdesign service

Hello to all you instructable people. Firstly, this is my first post and I want to say, what an amazing website, i cant believe its taking me this long to find this site. I haven't closed the tab for this site all day. So many interesting read, projects and ideas. And the community seems to be real nice. Many forums i visit are horrible places with kids swearing and arguing with each other. Secondly, IM offering my webdesign services to the community. Perhaps you want to showcase your projects on your own site. Certainly looks proffesional if you have your own website to show to interviewers or potential clients. Or maybe you want to sell your instructables? I have a package which will set you up with a fully functioning ecommerce website. Allowing you to add your own items to sell with ease. Bronze Package($59): 3 PAGE BESPOKE WEBSITE PICTURE GALLERY VIDEO PLAYER FORM SUBMISSION DOMAIN & HOSTING FOR A YEAR SOCIAL NETWORKING INTEGRATION SEARCH ENGINE OPTMISATION GOOGLE MAPS AND GOOGLE PLACES INTERGRATED EMAIL SETUP Silver Package ($99): 5 PAGE BESPOKE WEBSITE PICTURE GALLERY VIDEO PLAYER FORM SUBMISSION DOMAIN & HOSTING FOR A YEAR SOCIAL NETWORKING INTERGRATION SEARCH ENGINE OPTIMIZATION GOOGLE MAPS AND GOOGLE PLACES INTERGRATED PAYPAL SHOP (SELL YOUR PRODUCTS ON YOUR WEBSITE) EMAIL SETUP Gold Package$149: 10 PAGE BESPOKE ECOMMERCE WEBSITE PICTURE GALLERY VIDEO PLAYER FORM SUBMISSION DOMAIN & HOSTING FOR A YEAR SOCIAL NETWORKING INTERGRATION SEARCH ENGINE OPTMISATION GOOGLE MAPS AND GOOGLE PLACES INTER GRATED EMAIL SETUP LOGO DESIGN, ORIGINAL, UNIQUE LOGO TO CATCH THE EYE OF YOUR CUSTOMERS AND REPRESENT YOUR BUSINESS THIS PACKAGE IS DESIGNED FOR A COMPANY OR BUSINESS THAT WANT TO EXPAND THERE SHOP/PRODUCT AND START SELLING ON THE WEB WITH A FULLY FUNCTIONING ECOMMERCE SITE EXAMPLE:http://www.eeventical.com/ Whatever your needs I can cater for them. www.superdecwebdesign.com Contact me at grbmedia@live.co.uk Many thanks George

Posted by tidyredline 6 years ago


Scholarship Submission the Second!

For my next submission for the scholarship Create, I decided to design a robot that would not help what you do in your daily life, but how. Stress can build up without you yourself knowing. Perhaps you're prone to panic or anxiety attacks and can't recognize them; the first step in dealing with such. So, I would develop a robot that could cater to easing your stressed or panicked condition by detecting the symptoms and then using any number of methods to return to you a normal state.For in-home use, the human would wear a combination heart rate/respiration/oximeter monitor (coupled with a BP cuff perhaps) that would send wireless data to a nearby computer or the robot itself. At such time a stressed condition arises, the programming can recognize what course of action is needed and address it. For instance, a raised heart rate and shortened breath with low oxygen absorption could indicate a panic attack. The robot would then stop what it was doing (vacuuming, chastising cats, etc) and find the human. The robot would then playback an audio message of "Are you feeling OK?" or a soothing musical piece or project a slideshow of recognizable images. The robot could return from time to time after an stress event to check on the progress of the human. If the human doesn't return to wellness, a more advanced robot would suggest any number of relief alternatives ("Should you take your medication?") or possibly notify another human of the situation. Of course, this is no substitute for having a companion or caregiver nearby to assist in these situations. I originally had the idea for people that live and work alone, or happen to find themselves without human contact during times of stress. My fiancee then suggested that I expand the scope to more needy people like the elderly that can't or won't always speak for themselves about how they feel. That version may require more resources than I am privy to unfortunately. If I get a chance to work with a Create, I would try to pack in as many features as possible.I would like the robot to have a some kind of visual representation of a face like an LCD and an interface so the human can interact with the robot. Voice recognition would be nice but a simple red and green button may have to do for now. The human would have to wear, in addition to the monitor, an IR emitter of some kind so the robot can find said human. It could be done cheaply with something like a promotional LED light worn on a lightweight anklet or even attached to a shoe. As a footnote, I'd like to say that anytime I'm tense, there's nothing quite like an episode of "Ask This Old House" to calm me down. Hmmm....

Posted by SolamenteDoug 11 years ago


LED display to an Audio Click? Visual click track aid for drummers required.

Hi Folks, I'm searching for some info on how to make a visual "Click track" aid. In one of my bands, we use a click track on some tracks and live on others. I use a single in ear monitor for the click track which s fine for most tracks, but for some, I need the click fairly loud and this cannot be good for the old lugs long-term. So, I want to make a small LED display or two that can react to an audio signal that is fed from the click track channel. I've seen many instructables that show how to make LED blink/flash etc to music, but my requirements are a little different (I think). The click at the beginning of each bar is higher in pitch and has a higher velocity compared to the other click in that bar, so for example; Playing in 4/4 time signature: click 1 - Velocity =100 - pitch C5 click 2 - Velocity =90 - pitch C4 click 3 - Velocity =90 - pitch C4 click 4 - Velocity =90 - pitch C4 If playing in another time signatures ie; 3/4 or 6/8, then I would also need to cater for this in the display Questions: 1. Does anyone know how I could devise a system that would light a Red led for beat 1 and then perhaps a white (or other colour) led for the rest of the beats, but in a sequential fashion? 1,2,3,4. 2. Is it possible to change which led flashes based on either pitch or velocity? I could even make the front of the led display show actual numbers over a perspex cover so at anytime, a quick glance will show me exactly where I am in the bar. So rather than coloured leds. So to recap, I'd like to be able to take an additional audio feed from the click track channel from a mixer, into this new "drummers visual click track aid" device and have it react to the clicktrack and display that in the form of beats per bar based on either pitch or velocity of the click track. I currently use a couple of wood block sounds for the click track because they are very clean and short. Many thanks for taking the time to read through my requests and if you're the kind of clever person who could make such a device, I'd be more than happy to pay you for your input and suggestions. Many thanks in advance and I look forward to hearing from you soon. Cheers Phill

Posted by CrashCourseMuso 6 years ago


The Instructables Knex Tournament - with Prizes! :D

The Knex TournamentI am NO knexer. At all (I lie, I have a Knex pocket turret I designed sitting next to me right now. Whatever.) I have posted no Knex Instructables, no forum topics besides this, and only have half a blue tub of Knex in my basement. So why the &%! would I post a Knex contest, and offer fabulous prizes (look below)?Recently, for those who don't know, an argument in the Knex section has been going on. Quite a few Knexers, angered by their in-ability to pay for Pro (I need a pro judge! Look below), have left Instructables for a clone known as Knex Innovation, which is a Knex site similar to Instructables, but with higher criteria and no 'Non-Knexers". This gets me down. Instructables is a great site, and a substantial group leaving it makes me angry, esp. as it is over a small issue. However, one of their complaints- that Instructables does not cater to Knex- is completely true. There have been no official contests, and all the user-run ones are small. So here is a contest that I hope will draw those Knexers back to Instructables, while also improving the Knex image. Rules:Your entry MUST be original. No mods on anything existing. Borrowing parts from other builds is allowed with original author's permission. A PM will do.Your Entry must be completely Knex and rubber bands. For a complete list of allowed materials, check below.Your entry must be posted in Instructable format, with complete and readable instructions. For more detail, check "Criteria"Your entry must have good spelling and grammar. Entries without will be disqualified, within reason ( a few mistakes are fine.) If you are foreign, please send me a link to your unpublished 'ible, and i will correct as many mistakes as I find.Criteria for Judging:How well it worksAesthetics (PRETTY!!!)It must be clear and easy to follow, No "follow the pics". You must state, in both word and image format, how to do each step, with piece by piece instructions.GrammarSpellingAny additional rules stated in the roundAllowed Materials:Knex (Duh)Knex motorsRubber bandsTape (in moderation)Please ask if in doubt or if you wish to incorporate other materials.Prizes (Yay!)Grand Prize (1 winner)Either $10 or a tub of Knex. (Aren't I generous!)First Prize (1 winner)$5 or a quart bag of Knex.Second Prize (2 winners)A digital Knex PatchLargest Entry (1 winner)A digital Knex PatchAll Other EntrantsA digital Pat on the BackPlease note that, due to parental restraints, the contest organizer may be unable to provide prizes, and reserves the right to change or get rid of any prize at any time. Prizes can only be shipped within the U.S and Canada, participants from other countries will receive alternatives instead.Judging:Here is how the judging will work. There will be two non-knexer judges (myself and one Pro person, who is willing to provide prize patches) and two knexer. All entries will be up for judging by the people, and any person who wishes (including judges) can post their three votes IN THE THREAD FOR THAT ROUND. Votes posted anywhere else will be ignored. The top fifteen in the first round will advance, then the top ten. The third round is the judgment round. The judges, and only the judges, will vote and discuss over PM or AIM or something until we pick the winners (but largest entry can be from any round). got that? Whew.Judges (Non-Knexers)MyselfKitemanJudges (Knexer)MepainNeeded!Sign-Ups:Sign-ups will be until the 31st, so, 10 days. 25 or more peopleDJ RadioI_Am_Canadian * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Rounds: Each round will be two weeks or so, and there will be 3 rounds in all. Round 1: Not announcedRound 2: Not AnnouncedRound 3 (finals!): Not AnnouncedSign Up!

Posted by Rotten194 9 years ago


What is a racist these days?

Lately I have a problem accepting certain things when it comes to the label "racist". As some might know I decided to live in Australia and here we have what you might call a "multicultural population". Laws and tolerances have changed and these days swearing in public, using abusive language or say anthing that can be seen as racism brings you in big trouble. I never had any problems making friends with people from all over the globe, no matter what ethnic or religous background they have, but lately I get the feeling that this is not true for everyone. With everyone I don't mean the big bad racist living down the street or the gang of thugs that only attacks certain people - by everyone I mean those migrating to start a new life in a different country. If I walk into a shop has no pricing or product labels in english and I notice the shop keeper is unable to use english as well, would it be wrong to call this racist? If I can't use the local swimming pool at certain times as it closed to the general public so only one ethnic group can use it - isn't that racial discrimination too? Ignoring simple things like the dress code for women can get you into big trouble in many countries and if you insist on you individual rights and call those ranting against your violation being racist, well chances are you won't make it through the day. The other day I was called a racist and "complimented" out of a shop after I complained noone in there is able to speak english and that I am unable to read simple things like the price of an item. All I said to a shopkeeper (that until then pretended he did not understand anything I say): "Why the hell do I have to learn chinese in an english speaking country just to go shopping? We all speak english in this country, accept it or if you don't like it leave." I think I have enough friends from different cultural backgrounds that would happily confirm that I am not racist in any way. But I do think the term is abused and misused in recent years as we are expected to cater for all the needs anyone might have - regardless if we would see the same as guests in their home country. Racism often comes from cultural differences and misguided views on certain things as simple as what type of food you can or can't eat. So my questions up for debate : Do you think failing to integrate yourself into the customs of a country like learning and using it's official language could cause problems? Do you think the support for people migrating from other countries is driven too far in certain areas, like providing citizenchip tests in foreign languages or with an interpreter instead of insisting on learning the official language before applying? Do you feel left out if your work mates use a differnt language while you are around? Is it correct to call someone a racist if he refuses to employ people that are not from his country of birth? Are you a racist if you think people with your citizenship should respect your country and be able to speak and understand your language? Do you think the support for foreign cultures in your home land has gone too far or would more support be better? (like allowing schools for selected language backgrounds without the requirement to use or teach the official language and school topics) I know this topic might be a bit of puch for some but my intention is to find a better understanding on why cultural integration and related racism has come the extreme state we currently see in many "modern" countries that offer good social security. After all we all have to live together somehow, increasing tensions is never a good thing and I think if everyone would have a better understanding better acceptance of local customs all could be easier. I hope it is ok to start a topic like this for discussion, if you feel it is not right please use the flag function and report it.

Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago


Fighting with Nylon ;)

As some might know I still use an old Gen1 Prusa but love the challenge of basically getting everything done with that oldie. One of my latest challenges of "always" printing on a cold bed includes Nylon. If you ever had troubles because you ABS or PLA filament got too moist you will already know what happens to your print... Nylon is even worse when it comes to moisture as you can't see or really feel it. I was thinking of making a complete Nylon guide as an Instructable but think I will start here to kick off some discussion first. So, we know the Nylon must be really dry for a god print as otherwise we get bubbles, bad adhesion and of course a foamy looking print. Well, not really... Let me explain: A perfectly smooth and shiny finnish is not always required, and with the right settings Nylon still forms strong bonds even with a foamy look. However, the dimensions of parts are affected as well - outside dimensions go bigger and hole diameters smaller. If that is no issue for your print then there is no real need to perfectly dry your filament ;) Speaking of drying: People use all sorts of methods to dry their filament, not just Nylon. One of the most common and most expensive seems to be the use of your oven for several hours to dry it. Another way involves food dyhydrators, bit less on the energy bill but still... Then we have the smart guys using the sun and silaca gel for the drying - good and great but so useless in cold and wet climates... My advise here: Take your time! I mean, sure you want to print right after the filament arrived in your letter box but a bit of preperation will save you filament and frustration. Usually filament comes in a sealed bag with a pack of silica gel and it should be dry and ready to use. But Nylon can become too moist within the time it takes to finnish a long print if you are in a wet climate. This means you start printing and all is good but the next day your new print looks ugly as for no real reason. Make use of these sealed storage containers. Put the filament in there with a good amount of indicating silica gel and only have a hole to feed the filament through - if in doubt use a bowden fitting and a short lenght of teflon tube to prevent friction. A piece of sticky tape over the hole when you don't use the filament and the filament is always ready to use. Reminds me to make an Ible for a suitable storage solution with spool holder... Anyway... When it finally comes to print Nylon you should know cardboard works best as a bed as Nylon sticks really well to it. I glue mine onto a layer of masking tape, this way it won't lift from the bed and I can still replace it very easy. But the most common mistake with Nylon is to print it too fast. The stuff really expands and shrinks a lot from filament to print and high speeds only too often cause the layers to seperate later on. Some people compensate with higher temperatures but I don't like the idea of fitting a filter system with activated carbon filters... Also keep in mind the intense shrinkage when setting the extrusion multiplier! If your ABS prints fine with 0.85 you can expect that the same sized Nylon prints fine somewhere in the range of 55-60! Now you also know why printing with thick layers is not such a great idea if you require all dimensions to fit. Although only outside accuracy can be done by cheating in the settings, getting outside, inside and extrusion widths settings accurate is almost rocket sience ;) Nylon is expensive or not available here in the diameter I require.... I had the same trouble and reverted to trimmer line and a modified, dedicated hotend instead. Why dedicated you wonder? Nylon can be real pain to clean as nothing dissolves and if you heat the parts hot enough to melt it you can not work easy with them. Having a decicated hotend means you won't run into the problem of burnt ABS or PLA clogging the nozzle ;) It also means you can match the hotend to the trimmer line you choice (more on that in a minute). For example, in some areas trimmer line of 2mm or 3.3mm diameter is the most popular and cheapest. Just drill out the hotend to cater for the new diameter, which I did after noticing the filament got stuck in the neck of the cold end ;) Trimmer line - does it matter which one? It does these days! Avoid everything that is not round or labeled with terms like "duracore", "dual core", "multi layer"  -basically all that indicates it is not just a single, solid stand of Nylon. Long lasting, special core line is great for your lawn trimmer but really bad for your hotend! PET, High temp nylon or even fibre re-inforced cores are in use, so in the best case you mix the nylon with overheating PET, in the worst you block your nozzle permanently. If it looks like it has a core or some sort of "mantle" around it, it means not usable.

Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago


10 Best Electronics Suppliers

First off, I would like to give notice to Electronics Projects for Dummies for most of this info.I wanted to make a site with many of the best sites to buy Electrical Parts, because it can sometimes be a strenuous activity. I have 10 here, because if you can't find something on one online store, you might be able to find it on the next.Reynolds ElectronicsReynolds Electronics is a good supplier of remote control components, micro controllers, and robot kits and parts. One feature that stands out on Reynolds Web site is the clear and helpful project/circuit tutorials. You can also find links for educational books on topics such as robotics and microcontrollers.Hobby EngineeringHobby Engineering is a sit slanted towards the hobbyist. This site carries some useful items that can be harder to find from other providers who are catered towards the corporate customer. it also has a good supply of micro-controllers, robot kits, parts, ad miscellaneous components and tools.All ElectronicsAll Electronics has an incredible selection of many of the useful items you would use to build your project. They are very inexpensive and it is easy to find your way around the site. This site also has a "consumer comments" section where the consumers get to talk about the quality of the product and more. (Thank you westfw)BG MicroBG Micro is a cool site for rare and pretty neat gadgets as well as a nice selection of alot of the items one will need for a weekend project. There is also a very nice search engine at the top which lets you search for an item you can't find on the left. (Thank you Las Vegas)Jameco ElectronicsJameco has a very nice site catalog. It's not very big that you sspect a forest was sacrificed in its making. I has great color photos with relatively easy to find components. This is one supplier wih a low price fuarantee which means that if you can show a part offered for less, the lesser price is honored. jameco also provides lower priced generic products as well as name brands.DigiKeyDigi-Key is a large distrbutor of components from various manufacturers, offering a very large catalog with lots and lots of choices. However, the site uses small print that might be hard to ead. The catalog includes line drawings but o part photos, but it does do an excellant job of labeling the parts. Overall, Digi-Key has a huge selection of products, but they might need a little looking to find them.loading...Mouser ElectronicsMouser ElectronicsAnother large distributor of components from various manufacturers is Mouser. I like how Mouser's site allows you to compile separate orders for different projects. You can come backa s many times as you like to complete your order and make your purchase. We also like how Mouser label parts because the labels are easy to read and provide alot of information about the specific part.Like Digi-Key, Mouser provides a very large catalog.RadioshackRadioshackEveryone knows Radioshack!. This electronics convenience store is pretty much like any food convenience store: CONVENIENT BUT EXPENSIVE. If you are stuck at 4:30 on a Sunday afteroon needing a small part to keep working on your project, this store is right for you. Be aware that not all radioshack are equal.Fry's ElectronicsFry's ElectronicsFry's has stores in nine states, and if you are lucky enough to live near one you can browse the isles in person. Fry's stocks all kinds of electronics and parts including an EXCELLANT selection of IC chips.Goldmine ElectronicsGoldmine ElectronicsIf you are in the market for bargains, try Electronic Goldmine.. This online store often offers sepcials that can save you money. Based in Scottsdale, Arizona, Electronics Goldmine offers great help with international orders and also offers wholesale items on auction on eBay.Quick Tip: Try clicking Electronic Goldmine Treasure Ball for the best deals!FuturlecFuturelec offers a very nicely done site with color photos of the parts that makes for easy browsin. Futurelec also offers semicnductor news links and also links to recently added parts to help you keep on the top of the latest and greatest as well as PCB design and manufacturing services.[htpp://maplin.co.uk Maplin]MaplinThe British suppplier Maplin has stores scattered around the U.K. and also offers an online store.Unlike electronic gadgets and appliances that operate on different voltages in European contries, electornic components are pretty standard. Although Maplin will ship overseas, you might want to check out U.S. Suppliers first.SparkfunSparkfun was originally a PCB Manufacturer, and turned in to a company well beyond their expectations! They have a large variety of PCBs, LEDs, and MANY more everyday electronics components. The site is well organized with so much to choose from!

Posted by Brennn10 11 years ago


Making a better spot welder....

I am in the process of building a proper spot welder from scratch. Proper more in terms of the electrical and electronics part but not so much in looks ;) My problem now is to find useful info on what power levels are required for certain tasks. I realise that welding thin sheet metal won't need as much time and amps as welding a 3mm stainless steel rod - but what is a "good" power level? I watched a bunch of Youtube videos showing various approaches but for many it seems the producer had no clue about the difference between creating a short with burn marks and a weld... Especially when it comes to creating battery packs with a capacitor bank as the main power provider you can clearly see the device burns holes but does not really create a welded spot. On the other hand there are a few videos showing spot welder made from a MOT that seem to produce a proper melted and welded connection. When I used a proper spot welder at work it had timing settings, power levels and even a feature to adjust how the current rises.... Not to mention a gauge that checks the pressure and only activates the welder once the set point is reached... There is a ton of info out there that after a thausand words still tells you nothing you need to know :( So is there anyone here who can shed some light on the actual process of spot welding in easy words for everyone to follow? I am aiming for a max output of around 400A @ 1.5 -2.5V with an adjustable shunt in the transformer core to avoid oversaturating the core. In a later stage I will add power control over the primary side but until then it is only time control, from a few ms to a max of 5sec if the damn controller arrives one day. Big questions: 1. Is a power control really required or is it possible to cater from thin to thick just by using different timing settings? 2. Since a MOT is used for the power supply: Is it better to leave the shunts out to fully avoid saturation by adding an inductor in line with the primary or is it still better to adjust the shunts under load to get the maximum power possible? 3. Aluminium and other materials benefit from using AC but would be good to have a DC output too, if so then what materials really need DC? 4. All I could find is that copper is used for the electrodes, due to resistance and heat transfer - are there other options apart from using copper? 5. Tricky one: I would prefer to use the secondary winding as the new primary to avoid core saturation and to lower the load on the power outlet. Where can I find very thin copper bar material that I can coil up and insulate as I would quite a few more turns to get at least 1.5V out of it? Just don't like the idea of spending days rolling a copper bar thin enough.... For the advanced model at a much later stage: Of course I would like to be able to use a proper power control instead of a motor dimmer or similar. For obvious reasons an inverter microwave jumps to mind. But after checking one I noticed one big problem: there are not really that many windings on the primary of the transformer at all! Same way our modern switchmode power supplies only use a few turns these things do exactly the same. After some quick and dirty initial tests I realised that even a single turn of thick wire already results in over 20V on the secondary. Wasted a lot of wire and time making one coil with 5 turns less and one with 10 turns less but the system would not even start with it. Seems these things need a fixed inductivity on the primary that matches the frequency used, in my case 36kHz. Would love to overcome this problem so I can at least go down to a single turn to get under 5V on the output side as space is non existing on these inverters. Can I cheat? Do I need to change the circuit to match the new primary coil? Am I thinking in the wrong direction altogether here? And added bonus would be to be able to adjust the power from around 15% to 100%, so far the electronics don't allow anything below 45%. Is it possible to drive these inverters in resonance? (Ok, off topic as I would like to use this for a beefy HV supply) Last thoughts: I know people already used Arduinos and Raspberries with displays and all but so far I have not found anything that shows how to do it properly. Seems all that counts is to create connection one way or the other and to call it a spot weld even if it is just a burn hole from discharging a capacitor bank through a needle like electrode.... For obvious reasons I don't want to create just another spot welder that makes a professional pee himself laughing about it. IMHO nothing beats personal experience with something but I don't really like wasting my time by trying what other people alread did a long time ago. So if YOU already built a MOT based spot welder and used for more than a few spots I would love to hear from you! Let me know what type you used, what problems or shortcomings you noticed or where you feel it just does not work out the way you expected it. From simple things like always getting bad sparks or arcing, over how easy or hard it is to get consistand results to whatever really annoys you while using your homemade spot welder. I hope that your feedback here will help me to write an Instructable on building a spot welder that does what you expect it to do, not once or twice, but everytime you use it. Mechanics might vary the same way the electrode style does but the weld should always be a proper weld that won't tear apart ;)

Posted by Downunder35m 7 months ago