I have a 250 sq. ft. area that has 2" of pea gravel on top of clay. Can I mix cement into the gravel then water from the top to get a surface hard enough to put pavers or stones on?
Asked by Silvermist73 1 year ago
I tried to create a cement patio for my backyard (kind of like this one: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-nice-cement-patio/ ) except it was an abysmal failure. I would like to try to just cover it up and make a flat surface/ So my question is: what kind of cement can I use to create a smooth surface on the patio area? The cement I purchased had a lot of little pebbles and what not so I can't use the same kind. Is there a pebble free cement that you recommend? I looked online and noticed that resurfacing is only good for so many mm, but I may have to do more than that, not sure. Also, there are "gaps" in between each cement tile, so I don't know if a resurfacer would be ideal to fill in those gaps. I appreciate any feedback and thank you ahead of time!
Asked by MiguelA11 3 years ago
Although I did my mixing outside (on a semi-rainy day) and held my breath while pouring the cement powder, I think I might have inhaled a tiny bit. Not a lot, but enough for a bit of coughing afterwards. The coughing is over, but my throat now feels slightly sore, but not bad enough that I want to contact a doctor. Mostly just a bit irritated, that I hope will pass. But can I eat or drink anything that might help this pass quicker? For lubricating the throat or something. Or will it go away eventually?
Posted by Mikki G.W 9 months ago
Asked by wenpherd 8 years ago
I would love to do a decorative finish on top but I am not sure how to
Asked by cdumire 9 years ago
I'm using used railroad ties for a landscaping border. No pressure/tension involved. The ties I got are rotted inside and in one side and have good appearance on their other three sides. I was considering using portland cement to fill in the voids, but would like to minimize how much water used to cure the cement in order to prevent further rotting of the tie itself. Would the cement cure if I don't use any water?
Asked by mbloom2 4 years ago
Https://www.instructables.com/id/Cement-Wallet/ I was thinking that if bent the gloves into the right shape before pouring in the cement, and placed them into cinder blocks and held in place with more cement, they could be used as bed legs. if I were to use 8 blocks, with 2 hands each to hold up a queen sized bed, what would be the best way to reinforce them and prevent them from breaking and cracking? assuming that this could work. any advice on this project will be appreciated, thanks.
Asked by anoddmind 8 years ago
I would love to inquire more information about transparent cement. I am doing this research and I would appreciate it if someone could help me to find articles related to this topic. I would also like to know if some students are able to apply this idea and how could they manage to make this material. I read about i-light cement, but I wonder how, if possible, could this be made. I would appreciate your help!
Asked by HMN93 4 years ago
I was thinking that vacuum forming would be the best way to go, but not sure about the textured face of the block. I'm also not sure what the best material would be, something flexible enough to peel off the block for re-use, but sturdy enough to not need a form around it. Any ideas would be greatlly appreciated!
Asked by skip67 9 years ago
I want to know...for constructing a house flooring...in one bag of cement what is the ratio and proportion of sand and gravels? and how many feet will it cover for that mixture for the floor?
Asked by eaaaa 8 years ago
Https://www.instructables.com/id/Mini-Charcoal-Furnace/#step1 This has me wanting to make my own foundry, however i can't find how to make refractory cement, and nutandbolt doesn't list his own recipe. Alternatively, Where can I buy refractory cement in Australia?
Asked by Nagarok 7 years ago
Asked by Rayonger 4 years ago
I want to manufacture pvc solvent cement.can anybody guide me?
Cement is an ingredient of concrete. I'm trying to put a small grab-rail onto my Mom's front patio, which has concrete aggregate rocks of about 0.5cm-2.5cm. It's classic, old concrete slabs. IT IS NOT PURE CEMENT. My question is: What's the best way to anchor, say, a handrail, into it. It appears to be fragile. Thanks.
Asked by erik.gelhar 3 years ago
I have spent a great deal of time working on this question yet, I have no solid answer to go on. I tend to enjoy acquiring a skill set which would be very useful come TEOTWAWKI (the end of the world as we know it). I am far from a prepper, however I still entertain a slight possibility and see no problem with learning how to do a little more than cope. These skills extend from knowing where to grow, gather, and how to store penicillin to simple things like a yeast starter 100% from scratch. Brewing and distilling are also handy because it makes a great trade item. These are all things you never see in the Walking Dead or any other TEOTWAWKI cinema. One of the more important skills I believe would be conjuring fortress walls from rocks in the form of a little thing we know as concrete which we all take for granted. Now I could mix portland cement and filler with some water all day long and make a pretty cool fortess, but seriously. All the home depots in my state wouldn't have enough quick rite for that. So today I wan't to know what general rocks and minerals (that you can find in nature) can you combine to make cement. I know there are all kinds of fancy names for these, but what I really need is some good old generalities. Tell me to go outside grab a handful of clayish dirt, but it in a kiln with some lime and grind it up. I'm not looking for top of the line stuff here, this just needs to be able to hold a general form for a few years and be a little bullet resistant. This is for a crude fort, not the tallest building in the world or the hoover dam. A simple mortar would also be nice, although there really aren't any stones around to put together, bricks aren't super hard to make with as much clay as we have in our soil. So join me and maybe I will put together an instructible on all the skills you actually need but don't have!
Asked by jj.inc 4 years ago
I'm planning to switch from wood to cement because we are soon moving into a condominium where noise should be kept to a minimum. If yes, what is the ratio of water to cement? if no, can i mix it with sand only and what is the ratio. Thanks
Asked by beehard44 7 years ago
I constructed 4" triangular molds out of cardboard (I am making coasters).I poured quikrete mortar mix into a cup, mixed with some water and poured into the molds until the depth was roughly .5".About 1 hour into drying I realized that huge cracks were forming!How do I eliminate or reduce cracking?
Asked by TaylorC86 4 months ago
I have seen cement seagull years ago that were made of cement
Asked by MegL6 1 year ago
Ok, this might sound as a stupid idea, but i was reading about Papercrete today which sounds fascinating and i will have a try on it. But then this other weird idea came up to me.....i want to make something like a giant rock, and i thought perhaps instead of using papercrete, what if i made the whole giant rock with just paper pulp and then cover it up with cement so it could be waterproof ? is that possible? please give me your thoughts
Posted by Ιστορία ΕλληνικούΚ 2 years ago
I've remodeled my basement. There is an existing toilet installed on the cement slab foundation in an awkward location along the wall and I would like to move it. I only need it to move about 12" along the wall. The 2 options I'm considering are (1) cut into the cement and extend the pipes with appropriate angle for drainage yada-yada-yada, or (2) raise the toilet and run the pipes below the platform but above the slab. Just as a note here, there's no way I'm going to just have the toilet be raised like a throne by itself :-) The bathroom is small so raising the whole floor isn't out of the question, My question is at least 2 fold. Is there a better way to do this without sacrificing the aesthetic of my new space? If these are my best options can anyone provide some details around the best way to move it in the slab? Thanks!
Asked by rocketmansf 8 years ago
I see that people recommend using different kinds of solvent (and lots of elbow grease) to get the adhesive residue off, but I have an area that is north of 500 sq. feet. Tile is off and we'd like to stain the concrete. Thanks for any suggestions.
Asked by TracyS131 6 months ago
So, after making this awesome isntructable (it's curing now!), I got ideas for other concrete projects. My favorite so far is making a concrete lamp. I want to make a mold of a lamp (light bulb in it) and then cast it in concrete. I'd then put a real lampshade on it and call it art. My problem is...I have no mold making experience. Do you guys have any tips, know where to get silicone, etc?Thanks!
Posted by Weissensteinburg 9 years ago
I made my whole house out of recycled nylon fishnet and cement. The tuna factory where I got the free fishnet moved off the island, and I have no more source for plasterable plastic mesh material. I like plastic mesh because it doesn't rust. Recycling some of our plastic trash, which is a huge world-wide problem, would be great. Furthermore, given plasterable trash sacks one can make "trash rocks" ( https://www.instructables.com/id/TRASH-ROCKS-Eliminate-Unrecyclable-Trash ). One can build with trash rocks; putting unrecyclable trash to good use as fill material inside the trash rocks. If somebody could come up with a way to melt down and somehow convert plastic into mesh material, it could be a big step toward putting our trash to good use. Mesh in the form of ready-to-use trash sacks would simplify the making of trash rocks. In flat sheets, the mesh could be used to make walls, floors, and roofs. Fishnet stretches in all directions, so it is good for making dome shapes. Some meshes are more rigid and are only good for flat projects, or cylinders. If the mesh was more rigid, one might buy ready-made, light-weight forms for things like outdoor furniture, take them home and plaster them on-location. Someone more chemistry oriented than I am might be able to figure this one out. It seems to me there might be a lot of commercial potential in this, too.
Posted by Thinkenstein 7 years ago
I will try to write and instructable for my last project. Since this is my first instructable and it will be a bit long, I will need some reviewers before I can publish it. If some people can help reviewing, jsut tell me. I will laso need to find some super bright yellow leds which are really yellow, not amberish, or some high power RGB leds. If you can tell me where to find some (or send me a few one I can trade for some other colors or for plastic optic fiber), just let me know. I completely edited this message since I've found that it is possible to start writting an instructable without publishing it, so people interested in reviewing now have to tell me so I add them as contributors. Regards, t.
Posted by treg 9 years ago
I have been working without success on the smell in my 12' x 14' studio for 5 months, so I really hope someone can help me. I can put my nose right up to the walls and the ceiling and the outlets and not smell anything. But when I put my nose right to the floor I smell the dank, musty, yucky smell of damp, dank concrete. The place reeks of it, I can't work in it. I smelled it last October when I was looking to buy the house, I told the inspector about it but he could not smell anything. Everyone can smell something when they open the door, some people can tolerate it but I can't. As soon as you open the door it just overwhelms you. What I have done so far: 1. Had two peg board walls removed and replaced with chipboard, because that was what the other walls were made of. I had assumed at that time that the smell was mold coming from the pegboard. At that time I looked at the insulation inside the studs and it was fine. It smelled so good with that new chip board up that I thought the problem had been solved. 2. In preparation for painting I caulked the ceiling, around the windows, and up against the floors where it meets the walls. 3. Painted 3 coats of Kills primer on all the walls. 4. Painted 2 coats of very good quality semi-gloss paint on all the walls. 5. I scraped off all of the existing paint that was on the floor. It was peeling in places which is what led me to think the smell was coming from the concrete. 6. Washed the floor with a de-greaser. 7. Washed the floor with sulphuric acid, and rinsed it about 30 times. 8. Painted the floor with 3 coats of special paint made for concrete basements to act as a waterproofer. 9. Painted 2 coats of sealer on top. 10. I called the previous owner who confirmed that the studio's monolithic slab was poured without a vapor barrier because code didn't call for it, because no one was going to spend the night there or live in it. He never noticed the smell. 11. In all this time I have run the A/C non-stop, with the windows open, with the windows closed, with no effect. I have even run the heater for a few days. I have cleaned the A/C over and over, there is nothing to clean and the smell is not coming from there. Is there anything I can put on the floor to effectively seal the smell from getting into the air? Why didn't all those coats of concrete paint and sealer do it?
Posted by Ninzerbean 5 years ago
I want to make a little cement and stone patio for a miniature garden with Portland Cement. Do I NEED to actively mix the cement with water to activate it or could I just use a spray bottle to spray it to the point of saturation? I would have 1/4"-1/2" of sand underneath and the cement would be at maximum 1" thick, though1/2" is more likely. I had watched some YouTube videos of diy cement planters that only used the Portland cement and water and I thought it would be good for miniature garden patios, pathways, etc. Thanks for any help!
Asked by tseemann 1 year ago
Can you give some recipes, for when starting with plain cement, sand and water? Of course, I imagine it also depends on the cement used, but I also imagine that adding too much or too little cement to the mix has an influence on the strength of the cured product. Or at least describe what happens when there's too much cement - the obvious thing that's happening when there's too little is that the resulting concrete is too weak.
Asked by FlorinJ 9 months ago
I was thinking of somehow doing the tape mold of a child then covering it in cement slurry or fiberglass cement. Ideas?
Asked by katmark 7 years ago
When I am mid-way through a project I start thinking about the next one! I want to build a small-ish fish tank with a curved front. I envisage building a former of wood and 'wrapping' the plexi-glass round it to meet in the middle at the back. I will heat the plexi-glass gently so it can be bent but hopefully retain most of its thickness. What kinds of plexi-glass can withstand being bent and not turn colour? Also, what would be the strongest kind of cement to secure that join? I intend to reinforce that join by 'sandwiching' it with an additional piece of plexi-glass to give a greater surface area for the join, as water is incredibly heavy! FWIW I will also have much thicker plexi-glass at the bottom and top (top with access holes) with plenty of silicone around all edges. Many thanks for stopping by; I appreciate any thoughts you have. I will be posting this project as an 'ible to say thanks for the help.
Asked by kevinhannan 8 years ago
I have a lot of concrete from an old driveway that I got rid of with a sledgehammer. I dont have a truck to dispose of the concrete somewhere. So need to do something with it around my house.
Asked by DELETED_nuwave 9 years ago
Ok folks im building a bushfire bunker and i need to know how much concrete i need to make 4 walls 10cm thick 2m high and 4m long what kind of concrete i need and what kind of mix it should be how i should mix it etc i have had almost no prior experiance concreting so any tips would be appreciated
Asked by milamber 7 years ago
Has anyone ever worked with MgO cement? Where can buy it in US? MgO replaces the Ca found in portland cement. MgO cement makes a concrete that will incorporate cellulose and other organics into the crystalline structure. absorbs CO2 instead of generating it, is an order of magnitude stronger than portland, does not require wetting, and cures in minutes. So basically, you can take some burlap or old blanket and paint this stuff on, then fill the void with straw and cement and make super strong, light and thin structures. I have looked for it locally but it does not seem to be available to consumers in the US, probably because of the lack of sheep crap which is the typical source of Mg. It is amazing stuff. This is pretty much the only article I could find about the stuff: http://greenhomebuilding.com/articles/ceramicrete.htm
Posted by bsims1 4 years ago
I recently bought a bench mold so I could build a cement garden bench The mold has some delicate designs in it. I tried using quikrite 5000 and other cements with basic aggregates already premixed, but it did not come out crisp. The designs were pitted by aggregates I think. I am wondering if a simple Portland cement with only sand would work? I also incorporate rebar as well?
Asked by JamesP250 2 years ago
Ok, I get that cement is not the same as concrete. I think if I go to Home Depot, I buy cement. But you never tell the student how to make cement into concrete. Lesson 2 assumes that I have concrete, but I don't know how to get concrete. I know how to get cement, and I know how to get aggregate.
Asked by Mephitis69 1 year ago
I recently got someone to buy me concrete mix - I asked for ready mix as I've seen people suggesting Quikrete, but I ended up with 2 bags - one with the cement and one with the gravel and sand. Now, I want to make smallish bowls for outdoor use over the weekend (bird baths, small plantholders, etc.), but I'm not sure what my ratio must be for the sand / cement or sand / cement and gravel mix (and I'm not planning on buying another product). I've read that people can mix only the sand and cement for a smooth finish, but will this be strong enough? The gravel I have is quite large, and it might make the finish too chunky when the concrete is dry. I'm also planning on not using bowls or containers as molds - I want to smooth it out on the outside or inside of a bowl by hand with a trowel or something similar. Will I be able to make this work? I want to make small bowls, so I don't need to mix large amounts at once. I have never worked with concrete before, so I want to start out with small items anyway just to get the hang of things.
Asked by Nocturmia 4 years ago
Thanks Mike for the really interesting lesson; looking forward for an advanced one should you prepare one.I have a question: if you want the final product to be pure white (or as close as possible) how would go about the mix ratios if you opt for white cement instead of the grey one? Thank you and well done!
Asked by t800 1 year ago
The coils in the alternator are meant to be 14 gauge enameled wire, does anyboedy know if the wire in other ac motors like the one in a cement mixer use this type of wire? Cheers!
Asked by llucop 8 years ago
Hi. I have seen homes in Asia (where houses are constructed with concrete) with exteriors rendered with white cement + colours mixtures/oxides (and even small pebbles for textures) to coat walls/entire houses (instead of paint - as paint peels off after a few years). Could we get a lesson for that perhaps? Thanks.
Asked by MicroKID 1 year ago