Using a USB Bluetooth bundle into a home brewed device

Hey everyone, I am a student in software engineering and I am leading a project with other folks in software and electric engineering as some artists which consist of developing a computer game that use a home brewed device. That device is essentially a wii-mote ripoff: we will use some gyroscopes and accelerometer to get user input. However, some of the parts we are looking for are very expensive, we need to do 3 of theses devices and we don't have a big budget :) Since the most expensive part is the bluetooth transmitter (our device needs to be wireless), I was looking for a workaround. First, why bluetooth? Well we thought using some FM or RF stuff, however that implies some rare stuff that is not embedded in our student computers and even more expensive... So that's why we thought using bluetooth... And my question is... Is that possible and not so complicated to use those cheap USB bluetooth bundle such as these ones:;=bluetooth+adapter ? When I say not so complicated, I mean that we won't have a big controller... we will have just what we need to get the data from analogical sensors turn it into digital data and send it over USB. Looking over the web I found that some RS232 to bluetooth bundles exists, however they are very expensive... It might be an utopia, electrical stuff is really not my field of study. Thanks for your help!

Posted by scadieux 8 years ago

Building a Computer

So, in continuing my series of stupid newbie computer questions, I present: Building Your Own Computer!-The Computer-As you've heard, I first had a computer that messed up, then I took it to the computer dudes, and they said it was completely FUBAR, then I asked how I should salvage it. Now, after laying my eyes on the beautiful Linux-running $72 Computer, I said to myself that I should make one...-What I Have-I stripped my computer tonight, and I came up with a CD drive (doesn't burn, just reads), Floppy drive, hard drive, power supply (how the heck do I understand all those wires?), nice looking heatsink with matching fan, and various other parts from the Windows 98 computer. -The Problems--I checked the links provided at the link above, and the prices had either raised, the item is out of stock, or the item had vanished completely...-I would like to buy a minimum of parts because I am in debt with my parents, and being 13, I don't have a job to pay them off.-I would like to run Linux, as it is one of the coolest things I've found recently. -I do know that the link above is thumb-drive booted, and I would like to avoid that, but no biggie if I can't.-I also don't know that much about computers, so I want to keep the computer sweet and simple. -The components that I salvaged might not work with the new components (I.E. Motherboard)-Maybe more.-Pluses--It will be cheap.-Case mods should be easy.-Mistakes dont cost much.-Linux is free.-Linux looks very nice.-It shouldn't need much RAM to run (Am I correct here?), so I can run more complex programs without it costing me.-I have extra parts from the old Win98 computer that died.-Probably more, but this is all I got right now...First postSecond postI am saying this right now- I suck at understanding computers, and if possible, comment to me like you would your 93 year old grandpa.

Posted by John Smith 10 years ago

So...what would YOU do with a broken Win98 computer?

Well...I'm sure you have seen this forum post about me trying to find out what was wrong with my computer. It is WAS a Windows 98 computer.We took it to the guy to fix it, and he said that the fan cooling the CPU stopped (!). Then it fried itself (*sigh*) and somehow messed up the memory as well. THEN he said he replaced those components, and it STILL didn't work! So he basically (but not really) said, "Well, I guess you're screwed...want to buy one of our ridiculously high priced computers to replace it?"*sigh*Well, I was gonna tear it down...I know I can get hard drive magnets and stuff from it, a (?) power supply, various lasers from the CD drive, and other stuff.I KNOW you guys have some good ideas. What would YOU make if you had the entire computer to tear apart?

Posted by John Smith 10 years ago

DIY Fire Extinguisher

I need a cheap homemade fire extinguisher for small stuff.

Posted by ry25920 10 years ago

Making a cheap cheap projector?

I know that it's possible to crack open a "oldish" laptop or even a new one and remove the shielding around the lcd itself and shine a special light through it that's bright enough where you essentially make a lcd projector. I have a old toshiba satellite 2520cds with specs like a 2mb vid card, 96mb of ram, 4 gig hd, and a 300mhz amd processor. It runs somewhat fast, even for windows xp that I installed on it and plan to upgrade the hd down the road, but I wonder, would I be able to do the same thing with this? The screen is an older lcd that has that "motion blur" effect to it, so would it be worth it? Is there some way I could connect this lcd to my video card on my pentium 2 I have that would allow me to actually watch movies?

Posted by Punkguyta 11 years ago

Where to buy cheap parts in the UK

Hey, I have just stumbled upon this site about 2 hours ago (been wandering around looking at stuff to make) and have discovered a minro problem, the instructables all seem to link to US sites and they don't deliver to the UK and any sites I know of that are based in the UK are very expensive. $4 for a single small watch battery seems a little steep. So, if anyone knows of any cheap places to buy parts like components, tools and similar supplies I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance for your help with this.

Posted by Nimmo 11 years ago

cheap time bomb (fireworks detonator)

Heres my idea: Take a cheap dollarstore or walmart watch with an alarm. wire a capacitor where the little speaker/beeper thing it would store up a small charge and then have it arc or a fuse to light it. so you set the alarm for the time you want it to go off, it goes off, builds a charge, arcs over the fuse and lights the roman candle, firecrackers, whatever you want. would this work? are there any ways of boosting the power of the arc or making the fuse light easier?

Posted by aaronx 11 years ago

Cheap High-speed Camera

Yes, I know, It's an oxymoron. I've always wanted a high-speed camera, but they are way too expensive. I was wondering if any of you fellow Instructablers have a high-speed camera that you've lost interest in, and are willing to sell for a low price. Alternatively, if any of you know how to make a cheap, high quality, high-speed camera, could you post an Instructable? Edit: I bought a Casio EX-F1 a while ago, and even made an iBle about it. I also have a bunch of videos here.

Posted by Spl1nt3rC3ll 10 years ago

Cheap Speaker Stand Help?

M'kay, so I just spent several hundred dollars on a PA system and am too broke to afford paying 100+ more for some stands. Anyone wanna help me out with making my own? I'm looking for something like this: item)

Posted by DakotaFloyd 11 years ago

Cheap, Homemade, stationary bike stand? (Request)

Im looking for a person who can make me a guide to a homemade bikestand for a bike generator. I cannot weld, so a nonwelding one would be nice. Thanks! Oh, and the bike is from 24" - 28"

Posted by ExxoShock 5 years ago

Road Bike

Im looking for a cheap road bike ...something that i can start out with

Posted by f9150bust 9 years ago

DIY Laptop Battery

 I bought a second-hand, cheap laptop but it doesn't have a battery. It's an HP Compaq Presario V6000 series. I don't want to spend on getting a new battery right now. Is there a way I can make a cheap laptop battery out of Ni-Mh cells that I already have? Or, if I get a cheap China made battery in the near future, is there a way to charge that Li-ion battery using the Ni-Mh cells, when it goes low and there's no electricity? Please advise if something like this exists or if someone already made it. Regards, RS 

Posted by rseni 8 years ago

Propane vs. Charcoal?

I'm going to make the move back to regular ol' charcoal for its sheer cheapness, and my ability to make it hotter than propane. Mainly though i've been running on the last dregs of my propane, and i'm going on-the-cheap and as free of electricity as possible soonish-like. What do you use and why?

Posted by abbabibble2 10 years ago

Cool site of Wholesale Watches

Discount Wholesale Watches, Cheap Watches, Sports Watches, Fashion Watches and Clocks from China factory, no minimum order sizes or volume requirements.

Posted by 520xyz 10 years ago

cheap easy pyro detonators!!!!!

Get some silicon diodes 3 for a 1.99 at radio shack or cheaper online tape one to a match and ad 6 to 12 volts to it and after a few seconds it will overload and get real hot! then it with ignite the match which will then ignite the visco fuse. original idea from jolly roger creator of anarchist's cookbook

Posted by struckbyanarrow 10 years ago

Cheap Power Conditioning Unit (PCU)

In the video released by the windbelt creator, he mentions that his PCU only costs about a quarter. I dont know if that is his mass produced price, or his off the shelf price, but does anyone have any ideas about how to make a PCU for say, under a buck?

Posted by fafnir665 10 years ago

Altoids in hong kong

Where do you buy altiods in hong kong for cheap?

Posted by TNEN 9 years ago

Free boat as really cheap housing?

Has anyone else thought of getting their hands on a free boat, buying some cheap land (It's apparently not hard to get 5 acres in deserty parts of America for $5000 or even less) and burying the boat in the ground up to the waterline? You could use solar for power, and if your boat was a sailboat, you could probably rig a windmill to the mast to generate more electricity. Any thoughts on the practicality of doing this? Could you just dig a hole and bury the boat, or would it need some sort of framework to support it properly? Would transporting the boat to your land be too expensive to be worth it?

Posted by mharriger 11 years ago

Free LED

Where can I find a lot of free LED lights with free or cheap, but quick shipping?

Posted by metalshiflet 4 years ago

Buying stuff (in LA etc)

Where can I buy cheap touch sensors and switches?? (in LA)

Posted by neee 8 years ago

Cheap Source Of Propane?

When I got a new can of propane, for my torch, it was $9. At wally world, it was $4. Then, when I went to get a can of cooking stove propane from the camping department (at wal-mart), I notice that the tank was $3. After getting home, I noticed that the threads were exactly the same, and that the torch head would screw onto the neck of the "camp propane" bottle. So, as anyone would do, I fired it up, and it worked! Of course, it would shut off it you tilted it too far, but what the heck! $3 for a can of propane. But then I thought "Why is this so cheap, and why haven't I heard of this before? Is ther something wrong with this? Will I blow myself up?!?!?! Anyway, I'm all for saving $2, or $6 (depending on where I go), so is this actually a reasonable way of saving money?So what I'm asking:-Is this way safe? I haven't fired it up since, in case it did something bad.-Why is it so cheap to but it that way, and so expensive to buy regular tanks?-Has anyone else done this?If anyone can help, it'd be appreciated.

Posted by John Smith 11 years ago

Ultra cheap RC quadcopter (preferably using brushed motors)

Hey everyone.... :) I'm organising a camp to encourage high school students to take up STEM courses..... and I'd like to have them build their own RC quadcopters. I want the course to have a minimal fee.... so the quad should be INSANELY CHEAP. The quad should be able to do just one thing:FLY. Also, durability is not an issue.... just one or two flights should be sufficient. 1)Can someone please suggest a design using brushed instead of brushless motors? (Simply because they're cheaper) 2)If there's any way I can build a flight controller using off-the-shelf components.... please share your ideas.. 3)I have no idea about how to make the remote control/ RF transmitter....... is it the same as that of an RC toy car remote control? 4)I've come across some lovely designs where the frame is made out of paper or cardboard.... so that's not an issue.  Help in any form is welcome.... I'd love to hear from y'all....  Thanks in advance...:)

Posted by afshaanmaz 4 years ago

One of the best websites I have ever come across

DealExtreme is one of the best stes I have ever come across their stuff is cheap and quality. They even have stuff from high street stores at half the price just rebranded (E.g radioshacks worlds smallest helicopter). They specialise in all types of gadgets.The only down side is the shipping (about 3 weeks) but the shipping is free.Go check it out

Posted by josh92176 11 years ago

Cloud gaming | Update 15/01

Hello everybody. I need help to carry out my ambitious project a gaming platform in the cloud. if you intereste please contact me. I need help for the development of hardware and software. You can request more information.Contact me

Posted by bellotero69 5 years ago

Soldering Station

I am looking for a well-built, durable soldering station that has adjustable output modes. I was wondering if anyone could tell me about any soldering stations that they own or used that was a great product. Also, i would like it to be under $70 is possible, but all suggestions are welcome.

Posted by H20 7 years ago

High Tech Microscopy on a Very Tight Budget

 Among microscopy amateurs there is a long established tradition of grinding lenses and making their own microscopes. ( Antonie van Leeuwenhoek, who is known as the "Father of Microbiology", was a linen-draper by trade with no formal scientific education, yet his skill at making microscopes and his observations won him international recognition.)  When it comes to non optical microscopy (electron and scanning probe) the idea of making your own microscope at home is more intimidating. Mostly because of the cost and difficulty of getting parts you'll need.  But it seems that this man, John D. Alexander from Gilbert, AZ, found a clever way to build a scanning tunneling microscope using cheap and commonly available parts.   Have a look at his site  Very interesting. If someone of you will try to build his own microscope, let us know.

Posted by Fabio M 8 years ago

The Best Compressed Air Weapon EVER!!!

This Compressed Air Carbine I mad is so fun to shoot you should try to make one!!! It is easy and cheap to make, fun to shoot, and you can shoot anything out of it!!! I like this Compressed Air Carbine because if it's ability to shoot anything. Iv'e shoot Paintballs, Airsoft BB's, BB's, Marbles, Fishing Weights, Arrows, Marshmallows, Grapes, Sand, Rocks, Water Balloons, and Nerf Darts! I love this Carbine!!! Right now i'm working on a mod for it where you have a fishing reel on he side of it and you can shoot your line out of the Carbine instead of having to cast, and your line goes really far! Please tell me what you think about this instructable, and what can I do to improve the Carbine. PVC Compressed Air Carbine

Posted by clobber24 5 years ago

Cheap IR illuminator

I have been wanting to make night vision for a while and I get the question. How do I make an IR illuminator? Well I can buy 15 long range IR LEDS or I could buy a pre-built one for under $20. I have searched everywhere and still can't find what i'm looking for.

Posted by ry25920 10 years ago

Looking for simple Halloween costume ideas

(this was a Question over in "Answers," but Frollard brilliantly suggested that it would be better as a discussion here)There's a Halloween party next month for residents of my housing complex, which is for elderly and disabled people (I have disabling health problems (although not life-threatening or anything, in case you were going to worry)), and we've all been asked to dress up somehow. My problem is that I don't really fit in all that well here, and so neither do my costume ideas. Most of the residents are very normal, ordinary sort of people, except for those whose disabilities affect their cognitive or emotional functions; and those who were normal and ordinary back in Korea or Ukraine, but are still struggling with US language and culture.Most of my costume ideas (a Fruity Oaty Bar? ....Lady MacBeth? ...Marvin, the Paranoid Android? ...a Brownie from British folk mythology, to tie in with chocolate brownies from the oven to bring for the treats table?) are based on one semi-obscure cultural reference or another. I try hard (if not always successfully :) not to come off to my neighbors as some self-styled superior know-it-all, and I don't want to torpedo myself by showing up to the party dressed as The Solar System, complete with Halley's Comet in a holster on my Kuiper Belt.*(*although if I could figure out how to pull it off (for some other party), wouldn't that be just absolutely cooler than cool??? :)So I need an ordinary, normal, as-generic-as-possible costume idea. Cheap, easy, not so cumbersome as being a ghost with an old white sheet with eye-holes cut out, and not so close to unpleasant realities as The Grim Reaper (any number of our 80- & 90-year-olds already might as well avoid buying green bananas.) Right now I'm thinking about a bat with wings made from an old black umbrella, or else a scarecrow-cum-gardener (since lots of people know me through my working in our Community Garden).

Posted by Gorfram 9 years ago

Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago

dosimeter, how to

Any body have a simple way to build one cheap 70 120 db requirement

Posted by metalglue 7 years ago

Cheap GPS Unit

Where can I find an incredibly basic GPS? I am looking for bare minimum, something that just showed its location or that had an LED that got brighter as you got closer to an entered point. I am just trying to determine if simplistic GPS units are still available amidst the flurry of moving map, full-color, talking, computerized models with built-in A/C and a fridge. I would like to get into Geocaching, and just have a cheap GPS, but the cheapest ones I can find are still LCD screens with moving maps that cost $200. I'm hoping for well under $100, but I'm not holding out. I'm a geeky high schooler with no budget to speak of.

Posted by CameronSS 11 years ago

Cheap Solenoid valve (or other electronically actuated valve) sources?

...i'm needing to find a good source for cheap electronically actuated valves (for liquid mainly)...i've found a few solenoid type valves through random google searches...but they're all pretty expensive....i can get just solenoids for under $2 from most places...but they're just the solenoids...and well...i'm not sure how to turn one of those into a valve assembly if anyones got some good sources for either solenoid valves or other electronically actuated valves (i've seen some people use ice maker valves for this...but those things are $20 and up...too rich for my blood)

Posted by crapflinger 11 years ago

Hull Material and where to obtain

I'm working on a project (lets call it a boat project), and I need to find a good material to use for a hull. The material I'm looking for has to be strong, cheap, and easily waterproofed. I was thinking of using aluminum or plastic but i'm not sure where i could find these for cheap. I'm also not sure if these are the best options for what I need. Any input would be appreciated.

Posted by CoconutMage 2 years ago

Synchornized external falsh light for cheap

Hi, I am looking for someone who could do an synchonized flash light such as this one but for much cheaper ;-) The challenge is on synchronizing the camera with the flashlight, if possible wireless. The light itself and the diffuseur are no real topic. The use of such devices helps a lot when taking pics for your I'bles or your ETSY shop if you have one. Thx B

Posted by BaptisteL8 1 year ago

epic lighting

This forum is for anyone who wants to improve their houses for cheap

Posted by DELETED_instructamaker 5 years ago

Greenhouse Heating

Hi, does anyone have any suggestions on a cheap efficient Heating System I can build myself for a Greenhouse?

Posted by lamar850 6 years ago

Knifes From Things Around The House

Can you think of ways to make a knife out of cheap, easy to find items around the house? I came up with a knife made out of a Penny and a Nickle! Now lets see what you can thing of! (butter knifes, dinner knifes, and pocket knife do not counts , be creative :P )

Posted by iMac 10 years ago

Cheap LED, Batteries and magnets

Hi, I want to make a whole bunch of lowtec-throwies, just a simple version to decorate and take pictures here, not the ultra-bright highly magnetic kind.The problem right now is that 200-300 throwies with cheap LEDs would cost more then $100 if I get the parts at our local electronic store (and that without magnets)."besthongkong" has 1000 LEDs for $10+$10S/H (=2 cents each) but does anyone know another cheap source with a larger variety and colors of low cost LEDs, maybee even low current ones? Maybee even in Europe?Second thing: Batteries. Lithium cells are rather pricey at that quantity, and cheap button cells seem to do the job.I had a couple of 1,6v LEDs on two button cells with diods I had lying arround (voltage drop). It was not very bright but they still glowed a week later.I had a cheap 12 pack assorted buttoncell blister, and I found they seem to have even worse quality ;-) Idd probably have to use three or more and still throw some out.I remember an experiment using wire and coins, lemon juice or vinigar, which made a LED glow dimly. Any Idea how long before this DIY-Batery runs out?Third thing: Magnets!DX has 20 for less then $2. but I guess at that weight I could just magnatize some scrap metal and cut it into pieces. Thats about a third of the costs even with all the shipping :-)Anyone here that knows any other good site for LEDs, magnets and such that ship to europe?

Posted by schorhr 10 years ago

synchonized flash light for cheap?

Also posted in "burning question " forum Hi, I am looking for someone who could do an synchonized flash light such as this one but for much cheaper ;-) The challenge is on synchronizing the camera with the flashlight, if possible wireless. The light itself and the diffuseur are no real topic. The use of such devices helps a lot when taking pics for your I'bles or your ETSY shop if you have one. Thx B

Posted by BaptisteL8 1 year ago

Cheap two stage model rocket

If you were to take two model rocket motors and remove the secoundary charde from one and possibly fill the rest of the cartrage with homemade propellant. if you put one cartrage ontop the other an secured it with a little tape, would that work as a two stage rocket. does anyone think that the flame would travel into the secound cartrage and the pressure would blow out the first cartridge. Justr wondering if anyone tried this.

Posted by Reeper 11 years ago

Free or cheap CAD software

Hello makers! I have a list of requirements that I would love to have on a 3D software that is free or below $200.  Make Assemblies  Capable of inserting Sub-assemblies And flexible constraints Making drawings from 3D files like solid-works or inventor Similar controls as solid-works or Inventor. If you have any video links with demonstrations of the software performing these task that would be excellent!  

Posted by erik hansen 2 years ago

Where can I find cheap key switches?

I need a momentary key switch, like the ones in car ignition switches for an upcoming project. I also need one that toggles. Like these, but from a cheaper source.

Posted by Gamernotnerd 9 years ago

Magnifier lamp base broken - how to make replacement?

I have one of those handy articulated-arm magnifier lamps but the TOTALLY CHEAP INADEQUATE CRAPPY clamp base not only broke but gouged my desk as it did. I have beginner woodworking skills and tools; can someone make an Instructable on building a better replacement? The lamp and the arms and everything are fine, it was just the cheap plastic clamp that broke.

Posted by threeoutside 2 years ago

Looking for some Lathable Aluminum/a cheap "the real cotton candy machine" toyish machine....

Hey everyone, as you may or may not know, I've made the only homemade and documented cotton candy machine on the entire webbernets. Now, I'm back, WITH A VENGEANCE..... kind of... I'm looking for a place where I can get a cheap 6" round bar of 4.5-5" diameter aluminum, for Cotton Candy Machine: Mark III (The prototype was Mark I) I'm also looking for one of those cruddy 30 second cotton candy makers that you used to see on the T.V. ads all the time. I really need a better solution for the heating element problem. ANY help/aid is greatly appreciated!! Yours Truly, -The Muffinator

Posted by T3h_Muffinator 11 years ago

Same thing different name

Is it me or has the same cheap ass projects being posted over and over and over and over and over and over.

Posted by 0-Xero-0 11 years ago

Servo help

Do I need a motor shield for my arduino to use servos? Also where can i find REALLY cheap servos?

Posted by Alcreion 9 years ago

buster the crash test dummy

where can i buy these items cheap; >accelerometer >shock watch labels >dragon skin rubber

Posted by m5industriesinc 8 years ago

Pneumatic PVC Can Crusher

I have put together a very well documented guide, to build your own pneumatic PVC can crusher. This can crusher is constructed from easy to find parts at any local hardware store. For more information, and a video of it in action check out my website. Let me know what you think, Thanks

Posted by GOHST RIDER 6 years ago

Exelent Bay Area Tech and Art Resource!!!!!!

I am in charge of the electronics section at urban ore, i welcome all of the Instructables community to come and use all of the weird esoteric tech i have laying around. you name it, i have it or will get it soon. I used to teach electronics in the arts at SF state and can help with problem solving your project mention this forum and i will cut you a deal on what ever you need. Andrew

Posted by bramerandrew 8 years ago