End 2006 someone raised this topic but did not show how and which screws to remove in order to lift the upper-part of the printer. Can anyone on the board tell me how? Frank3
Posted by frank3 10 years ago
For maintenance purposes, I would like to construct an ultrasound cleaning tank. Preferably an encapsulated ultrasound transducer and generator that could be used in an old solvent cleaning tank which now should not be used. From reading a little about the subject, its application would find a wide use as a clean and environmentally friendly solution in many industrial and domestic applications. Is it feasable and cost effective to build a generator and an encapsulated transducer, and are there any websites to go to to find out more?
Posted by brianeggar 10 years ago
I acquired a nice set of drums from my nephew. Dixon 5 drums and 5 cymbals. 2 cymbals are Sabian B8 with fingerprints all over. Some cleaned up with water but most are "etched?" in. What is the best cleaner to use without damage.
Posted by AntRRmam 5 years ago
Hi, I was given a twin window fan which works just fine but is dirty (dirt and a fair number of ex-gnats). The manual is no help as it says to wipe the exterior with a damp cloth. I thought it would be a simple job to just take out the 12 screws holding the two halves together but unfortunately the off-high-low levers (one on each side) are preventing me from separating the two halves. I can't see any screws holding the lever mechanism in. I tried rotating one side 90 degrees to see if I could slide the lever out through it's slot but it's too fat. I've had other twin window fans with the same set up and never could get them opened up. It annoys me that the manufacturers make it so difficult to clean these fans. I think a fair number of people have this problem and just give up as the local thrift store gets these fans in all the time. I'm thinking of using my dremel with the cutting wheel and somehow slice off the lever knob. It would mean we would have a shorter lever on one side but we can live with that. The lever is kind of wobbly and I'm trying to figure out how to hold it steady without having my fingers so close to the cutting wheel. I know this is a really small problem but it really bugs me that something that should be so easy is difficult.. I'd appreciate any suggestions.
Posted by Lucycollie 7 years ago
I have a 14000 rainwater tank, and like to find a way go clean the debris from the bottom potentially recycling the disturbed water - so there is minium loss i have a ready supply of compressed air near by.,.,. can any one devise perhaps a venturi device that is easy to build, runs on compressed air and effectively vaccuums the muck from the bottom while recycling the caputred water....
Posted by agatornz 8 years ago
Hi there! I believe this is the best place for me to ask this question. I just wanted to get your feedback or opinion on this cleaning accessory we are currently developing, the “Flashlight-Holder Vacuum Cleaner Attachment”. This product is a first-of-its-kind vacuum cleaner accessory that holds a flashlight, to provide light directly at the point of use. Please see this 4 minute video to see what this accessory is all about: https://d2pq0u4uni88oo.cloudfront.ne...-h264_base.mp4 The accessory holds a flashlight, to provide a hands-free beam of light exactly where it is needed. As someone who is engaged with cleaning services/ housekeeping or homemaking, would you consider using this kind of accessory? Or would you stick to what you are using right now? Your feedback will be very much appreciated. If you want to know more about the product, just visit http://dupreehouse.com/ Thanks
Posted by AllanDonato 4 years ago
Maybe someone can figure this out. i have a brick fireplace and burn a lot of nice oak. over time soot builds up. i have a piece of stainless at the back of the fireplace to reflect the heat. this also gets a soot buildup. if i take a small handful of rock salt and throw it into a fire, in just a few minutes the soot on the stainless is gone and it is bright again... i have no idea why this happens...anyone?
Posted by clasof56 6 years ago
I found a straight-razor at the flea market the other day, so obviously I bought it. Now I'm wondering how I would go about cleaning and sharpening it? Does anyone know good metal cleaning tips for such a delicate blade? I know that you sharpen the blade before you intend to shave on a strop, or a piece of leather, but anything else? On the blade, it has: George Wostenholm & Son's Celebrated I-XL Razor Sheffield, England
Posted by bumpus 9 years ago
Also posted in Green Category Short Ver: I'm looking for a way to get the paper, foil, glue, and plastic labels off the bits of glass that have been smashed at the recycling center. Or, a cheap (nearly free) resource in KANSAS. Long Story: There are several good uses for recycling glass cullet, the glass is plentiful at the local recycling center, they get very little for it because there isn't a re-user within efficient shipping range. I was looking into buying recycled glass to use in a project, but shipping to get it delivered to KANSAS is outrageous $. I want to start off with glass as the aggregate in concrete countertops. That's a lot of glass - a couple hundred pounds per countertop. Yes, they're very heavy. I've internet searched to my bandwidth limit. No-one nearby does the glass cullet thing. So, I went to the local recycling center and picked up a couple of 5 gallon buckets of smashed glass. Really great. Now, how do I get all the labels off? Thanks, Ruby
Posted by rubyintherough 7 years ago
At work we have a ZING laser knockoff and SOMEbody "accidentally" walked off aaaand it caught on fire. Almost everything has been tried to clean it, even putting it in acetone in the ultrasonic cleaner, and the lens is still crap. Short of buying a £75 replacement lens what inexpensive methods could be used to return it to a near-original state?
Posted by The Ideanator 7 years ago
I was looking for a solution to clean my roof windows and found this solution: www.supermagnete.de/eng/project136 But I don't know which magnets I should order. If they are to weak the sponge will fall of all the time, but I use this monster magnet like this guy the window might get damaged. Is there someone who got a collection of magnets already (and dirty windows) and want to give it a try? In my case the window is around 10mm thick + lets say 5-10mm sponge on each side + 3-4 mm thick piece of plywood to distribute the pressure.
Posted by HHL 8 years ago
I just had to clean my thermos prior the tournament tomorrow. A quick peek inside revealed some stubborn residue. Propably furring (chalky deposits) from the boiling water i use to make tea in them... (we have quite "hard" water with lots of calcium). The throat of the bottle (Full-metal thermos) was too narrow for normal cleaning-brushes... I fortunately had a bag of rice standing around and thought "Hm... Hard and small things"! So i quickly added half a handfull of dry rice in the thermos and a bit of cold water (2-3 spoons). Then i shook it a bit and poured the rice out. The inside was quite clean and almost "pristine" again. This method should also work for thermoscans with glass-interiors. Another (better) way of doing that is propably (but ONLY if you have a METAL-Interior!) to add a hand of sand or fine gravel with some wather (Maybe even a bit of dishsoap) and give it a shake. Again: Only do the sand/gravel if your thermos does not have a glass-interior!! Have fun and enjoy a good drink while outside! :)
Posted by Orngrimm 5 years ago
Let me tell you how I bathe my cat. This is no fluke. I have even taken a cat to a college class and given him a bath as a demonstration. If anything would set a cat off, that would. I have even bathed cats that aren't mine. Take a big breath and relax. Your state of mind will influence his. Start with a clean counter next to the kitchen sink. Put towels on it. Don't have them so close to the sink that the cat could grab it. I generally have the cat facing away from the towels and toward the water faucet. Don't have him facing you. He'll try to grab you and climb up your chest. Get your shampoo opened and handy. Consider which hand will be easier for you to hold the cat and which to wash. Set up your towels and sinks accordingly. Now, plug the side of the sink you'll be using to bathe the cat. In the other side, start the water. Get it to the temperature you want. Turn the pressure down to a slow flow - on that side. Put your cat into the empty, plugged up side of the sink, facing the wall. I have bathed a cat with and without a towel in the sink. Your choice. Let him watch the water for a few seconds until both of you relax. With your washing hand, cup your hand, fill it with water and "pet" your cat with it. Start on his back, not his head. Do this several times. Slowly move the faucet over to his side of the sink but not ON him. Continue "petting" him with water. If he's relatively calm, increase the water pressure so the sink is slowly filling. Remember, you're washing with one hand and restraining him gently with the other. Put some shampoo on him and water-pet and wash him. Have a little PLASTIC cup handy so you can scoop some of the water from his side of the sink and pour it over him (it has soap in it - might as well use it to the max). Continue washing until you are satisfied that he is clean. GENTLY remove the plug and let the water drain WHILE you are filling that cup with clean water and gently pouring it over him. Scratch and pet him frequently. Talk to him. Rinse him thoroughly. When you are all done, let him drip a little. You might want to gently squeeze his legs and tail to 'ring' some of the excess water off of him. Then put him on the towels and wrap him up gently but quickly. Use old towels. If he has his claws he might snag them a little. Drying is the hardest part because he wants to run away. Dry him as best you can and then release him in a warm room. Don't let him outside until he is dry. I hope this works for you as it has for me.
Posted by lilredcin 6 years ago
At my workplace we basically have a specific cleaner or cleaning product for every task you can think of. From glass over stainless to plastics and desinfectants for lots of different surfaces. After a quick look into my cleaining cabinet at home I started to wonder if I am doing something wrong as I only have a few cleaning things for my use. Asking my friends also showed they have a big bunch of cleaning chemicals, plus the bottle of bleach that everyone down here has. So I though: Your grandma only had a few cleaning products and you learned most of things you need to clean from her. Considering I grew up healthy I guess she must have done something right.... Let's clean up with the cleaning myths, shall we? 1. What cleaning chemicals do you have? For quite a few people the list would start something like this: Dishwashing liquid, window, cleaner, bathroom cleaner, soap scum remover, floor cleaner, oven cleaner, several desinfectants.... If that is true for you too than we might be on to something already. 2. What cleaning chemicals do I really need? This is a good question as everyone is a bit different but I assume a healthy household here. Of course we need certain things to clean our various surfaces properly but it is far less than waht you have been told by the TV commercials.... These days we like to think if there is a special cleaner for something then of course we have to use it to clean properly. Unless you have trades people walking through with their wet dogs several times a day and see dust storms at least twice a week you really only need a few things. So let's get to the basics: 3. Old style cleaning and what you need for it - really the only stuff required to keep all clean and sanitised. a) Methylated spirit b) Clear ammonia - cloudy ammonia works too but be aware that the added soap can be a problem that leaves streakes c) Hydrogen peroxide - pool grade to be cheap in the long run d) Orange oil - citrus oil works great too if you prefer a different smell e) Soap - just basic soap, these stinky, slightly yellow and hard bricks - no fancy smelly soap ;) f) Several cleaning brushes but you should already have those g) Windows cleaning tools - the basic microfibre cloth and squeegee will do h) Several microfibre cloths - bigger ones for floors and walls, smaller for windows and the rest I) Yesterdays newspaper j) Baking soda With those few things we have everything to clean whatever comes up and if bought in bulk comes down to a few cents per bottle compared to a few dollars when you buy all the stuff you don't need. Lets figure out what the stuff does and how to use it: 4. Mixing and what to use it for.... The alcohol is a really good remover for everything greasy and also desinfects the surfaces. A quick spray and wipe on your bench is all that you need to remove oily residue or the mess from the kids. Mixed with a bit of soap and water (about 50-50) also removes sticky stuff like jam or syrup. If we use about 50ml of alcohol, 50ml of clear ammonia and 900ml of water we get one liter of really good window cleaner. The modern way is to use microfibre for the cleaning and a squeegee to get it dry, the old way just uses a cloth and then the window is "polished" with some old newspaper. The black ink reacts with the alcohol and form a mild abrasive while the paper soaks up the moisture, the result is a prefectly clean window in under 3 minutes. Orange oil is not only a powerful degreaser but also lifts old dirt or even glue residue. Used directly it will get rid of the remains from sticky tape, stickers and everything that other cleaners fails to get off - smoth surface and non soaking of course. 50ml of it with 50ml of ammonia and 100ml of alcohol per bucket makes a good florr cleaner and your house smells nice when done. Works best if you can use a microfibre cloth or floor wiper to dry the surface with it. In the kitchen we can find a lot of surfaces that are greasy and we already covered that bit, so lets get to the though stuff. The kitchen sink can become dull looking although it is not scratched. This is due to hard water, food residue, soap and other things. Best is of course to wipe it and dry it after use but who really does this every day? A pot scrubbing pad with some baking soda on it does the trick here. Make the pad nly moist and sprinkle the baking soda on it. Rub over the stainless and if too dry add a few drops of water. Once done rinse off and enjoy the difference. For hard to clean or badly turtured sinks you can try a ball of aluminium foil and coke - use it like a polish. The oven is often our worst nightmare. The cooktop is not far behind. But even here we can have a chance to clean without too much hard work or bad chemicals. Of course the best way is to prevent these spills and boil overs ;) For the cooktop some hot water and baking soda will soften the baked on stuff. Simply remove what you can with the hot water and then sprinkle the surface with baking soda. Cover all with the paper towels and if not wet enough add a bit more hot water so all shets are soaked. Leave ove night and wipe clean the next day. The oven is a bit of a problem once the side and back wall are filthy. If baking soda with a pot scrubber won't do the trick get some of these steel pads with soap in it. The soap in them is special in terms that you only need a little bit of water to remove almost anything with them - and they won't scrath enamelled surfaces. On the bottom we often have badly burnt in things that are next to impossible to fully remove. I suggest to cover the same way as the cooktop but also to add some orange oil. Just make a thick paste of baking soda and orange oil and wrok it into the soiled surface. Cover with wet paper towels and leave over night. Now you don't want to flood your oven, so that means you need to use a sponge or thick cloth that is big enough to wipe off the surfaces you soaked the day before. As the orange oil really is oil it pays off to use some alcohol in the cleaning water to get rid of the oil and grease a bit easier. Don't expect to see a clean and shiny surface after one treatment if the oven was badly misused, you might have to repeat the procedure a few times. If in doubt use the soapy steel pads for last clean and before soaking over night again. Three to four treatments are usually enough to clean even the worst disaster that can happen in an oven unless you baked it in for months... 5. Desinfecting and mouldy spots.... As said, the methylated spirit is basically just pure alcohol and kill almost anything that might harm you. But sometimes that just is not enough. And who really wants to spend an hour or longer to clean some mouldy spots in the shower or try to cover the smell by spraying room freshener? As a lst resort for everything I use Hydrogen Peroxide. The supermarket grade is only 3% and usually badly overpriced, so I suggest to get a small canister of pool grade peroxide. Do yourself a favour and ask them to install a tap on it - you don't want to do it yourself unless you already know how bad pool grade peroxide is! For your own safety when handling it I strongly recommend wearing long rubber gloves, nitrile is better but please no latex as it could start to burn when getting in contact with the peroxide. For high grade desinfecting or the removal of mouldy areas I recommend to dilute 1:5, one part of peroxide to 5 parts of water. Only for the mould removal on tiled, plastic, glass or metal surfaces you can use the peroxide pure from the container - but please add face protection when cleaning! Some spray bottles work with peroxide some just start leaking badly, if you want try an old bottle of chlorine based cleaner after really flushing everything out. The peroxide breaks down any organic material it comes into contact with, so not just the mould you want to remove but also your skin or eyes if you allow contact. On the skin you see white areas after contact and they won't go away until all the oxygen in the skin is gone that was left by the peroxide. If you act too late it means you might loose some skin flakes. The sure sign of overlook exposure on your skin is a burning sensation in the area - this only happens when the amount was big enough or your clothes got soaked. On your surfaces to clean you will notice bubbles forming quite quickly - this mean the peroxide is reacting with something, usually organic material. Let it bubble... Once it stops bubbling the surface is either sterile or the peroxide is used up, if it bubbles when adding fresh peroxide onto it then there is still crap left ;) It really helps to brush off the surface after each treatment as a lot of loose material will be flushed out when rinsing off. Once it looks and smells clean again it usually means it is clean :) 6. Special case: Wood... Be it wooden floorboards, furniture or just your chopping board - always try what the manufacturer recommends first! Untreated wood should never be cleaned with anything wet! Sealed wood, like floorboards or things with varnish on it to make it water proof can be cleaned the same way as mentioned above - but I would leave out the ammonia as some wood treatments simply won't tolerate it and might go dull instead of returning nice and shiny - spot testing required if you think you have to use ammonia as well! Orange oil itself makes a great furniture cleaner if the surface is smooth and sealed, but if it is not it means the oil soaks into the wood together with the stuff you want to clean off! It also takes off several paints and types of varnish if you work it hard enough and give it some time, so avoid this and be quick instead of forgetting to finnish the job ;) Always try to wet the surface as little as possible and wipe fully dry as soon as possible! Ok, good start but what is the real benefit? For me the actual benefit is that I know what I am using and exposing myself to. Just reading what is in most cleaning products we find at the supermarket makes me want to clean again after using them, just to remove their residues... I admit it might take some time to get used to mixing and just having a few ingredients for the cleaning but it does work great. Especially if you or your kids are already sensitive to certain chemicals or just of poor health in general you might see the benefit quite quickly. Some people really don't like the smell of ammonia but unless you are sensitive to it there is nothing to worry when using the household grade as we always dilute it down massively anyway. A good way to avoid the worst stink is by mixing it outside with the wind from behind. I won't say that certain commercial products are bad, harmful or not good enough for the job. Some are actually worth to have in some cases but I just say it is better to only have a hand full of chemicals that are not too bad instead of an endless list of things were we don't even know what's inside. For me the best is your surprise when it actually works better than you expected and report your findings here.
Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago
Was too lazy to do an Instructable about it and think a lot of pics or even videos won't help much if you know what I mean ;) Some of us use rotary vane pumps not for the purpose of evacuating refrigeration systems but for all sorts of fun and experiments. This means quite soon or often we face the problem of the oil taking in a lot of water or even worse particles and solvent fumes. I don't know about you but I was getting sick and tired of replacing the expensive oil every few weeks or sometimes even days if something got too wrong. There are many different blends of compressor oil out there that will work very well in our rotary vane pumps. The main difference is whyt the oil is designed for. Some are perfect for aircon systems, others for the work with solvent fumes and there are even those special oils that bind moisture. Unless you really need to evacuted special gases or solvents basically any low viscosity oil will do us just fine! So instead of paying 20 bucks for special compressor or even vacuum pump oil we can select the cheap everyday oil. Well, not exactly... We also want to be able to recycle our oil to save even more money. That means we don't want an oil that binds to water to keep it out of harms way. We also don't want any oil that has special coating abilities for example these oils claiming to reduce wear and tear on your engine. But any other low viscosity mineral oil or if you prefer synthetic oil will do - just stay away from silicone based oils!! If you have not used your pump for a few days you can often see a slude at the bottom of the viewing glass. If the rest of the oil is clear you can simply drain this worst bit and top up with fresh oil if required. This simple procedure saves you a lot of oil already, at least if your pump has some rest every now and then. Once your oil looks wasted it is time for the recycling and cleaning: Release the oil into a high glass jar or these facy spaghetti glasses. Fill with fresh oil and give it a short run. Release this oil as well and wait for it to properly drain. You now have the inside of your pump nice and clean again, time to fill one last time with fresh oil to keep using the pump. The filthy oil we now have in our jar should be covered with some fine cloth or filter paper and placed somewhere warm. After a week or two the oil, filth and water will have seperated and you pump, drain or siphon out the now clean oil for further use. Don't be too exact here trying to get all the oil out, just remove what you can without risking to suck in the filth from the bottom. Simply leave the rest in the jar and add the next oil change to it for the same recycling process. Solvents.... In some cases we will work with solvents and that means the oil might bind to them. Acetone for example is quite nasty here and can change the oil itself by breaking down certain components. In most cases it means the viscosity will be reduced, which is not really too bad for us. What is bad however is the fact that these solvents often refuse to fully seperate or evaporate. Once the oil looks clean do a smell test and if it smells like solvent then for sure there is solvent in it. Next step to confirm is to do a lube test. Simply place on some smooth metal or glass and smear it with your finger - a drop is enough here. If it feels sticky on the surface, gives you a rubber like feeling when sliding over the surface or is far less "slippery" than the fresh oil you also have a problem. I found that filling this contaminated oil into a proper container and applying a strong vacuum will remove all solvent residue in a very short time. Downside is that the oil in the pump is contaminated again, so it pays off to collect solvent contaminated oil seperately and once you got enough for several refills use the pump to get rid of the solvent. When done do another smear and smell test, if still smelly repeat if no longer smelly but still the same bad feeling on the surface: Discard as the oil might be broken down by the solvent.
Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago
Year after year the topic "I have a fish tank" seems to go more out of control. What was once a hobby just to have some fish can now be a design feature both in your home and inside the tank. Realistic looking lasdscapes, optical illusions that make you think the tank is much bigger and the list goes on. But one thing that now always pops up is the must have thing of UV filtration. Or to be precise: UV-C sterilisation! Now, if we trust Wiki and our big water suppliers then UV-C will literally kill anything alive that comes into contact with. So of course it would be a good thing to have for your tank - or not? UV-C is very dangerous for your eyesight and quite harmful for your skin! Looking into a proper UV-C lamp without protection means you can go blind! Even good sunglasses might not have enough protection in the UV-C range, so only use them for additional protection but never without and glass between you and the lamp! Don't be a fool! Treat UV-C seriously! You would not look into the full sun with your sunglasses and would not expose your eyes or skin to a powerful laser, UV-C is to be treated the same way! Let's start by using some boring text to explain the concept a little bit. On a large scale special and quite powerful systems are used to treat our drinking or pool water. Here special UV-C lights with a wavelenghts of 260nm or below are used to shine through the water passing by. There are two key factors here. a) the wavelenght b) the water flow rate and the corresponding time the water is in contact with the UV light To ensure all bacteria, viruses, algae and other harmful organics are dead the water must circulate for long enough so even the last water molecule had a few seconds of exposure. All this only works good with "crystal clear" water for obvious reasons as otherwise the UV has to be even more powerful to pass through. Single cell organisms literally crack into pieces similar to being exposed to gamma rays, more complex cells like algae have their cell membranes damages and the DNA suffers as well causing reproduction loss and early death. Even some chemicals break down, most importantly here chlorine based substances. Differences within the UV-C range! If you bothered to check Wiki about the topic of UV-C you will already know that only certain wavelengths within this spectrum will actuall be powerful enough to do what we want it to do. And here is the first problem for us hobby users. Most cheaply advertised "sterlisation lamps" you find in places like Ebay are actually totally useless. Stating to be selling a UV-C light to sterilze your water in such a case is still not considered to be fraud though. Simply because it still does what it supposed to do, just very slow and with very little effect. Only the so called "short wave" UV-C range is powerful enough! To avoid loosing business during the times of the biggest hype in 20 years no seller will actuall state the available wavelengths. That means without this info anywhere you can be certain the advertised lamp is of little to no use. Even those advertised to be short wave UV-C might not be the real deal. However, if a decent manufacturer is behind the actual lamp used it is possible to check the datasheet for these performance figures - but again most cheap systems come with no-name lamps inside. Check the prices for a reputable UV-C light with the same lamp fitting, e.g. G23 and you will see it might cost more than your entire system. Ok, you have a poper short wave UV-C lamp or consider getting a canister filter with one in it.... Never, ever test your lamp without proper protection!!!!! UV-C will damage your eye within seconds! If you system or lamp does not provide a viewing port or shine through area then you have to place a piece of glass between you and the light! UV-C won't be able to penetrate normal window glass but will pass through quartz glass. Place the lamp in a box and cover with the glass. How make proper use of UV-C sterilisation... The replacement lights are quite expensive, so let's see how to get the most out of them. As said before exposure is the key factor so the flow rate of the UV system must match tank size and flow rate of your filter system. Canister filters with a build in lamp should be designed to match but I will tell you later what to look for ;) Most of us will prefer to have a in-line system if there is already a good canister filter at work, so I will focus on those and rop in solutions. If you compare in-line system you might notice that some quite small and low power units claim to allow for the same flow rates as for example 40W units. Some are fraud and just want to sell while others use simple physics to make the claim true. A good system will utilise an auger like "ramp" that forces the water to circulate around the tube many times - causing up to ten times longer exposure rates. Others create this sprial effect more like a vortex with some diverters and modified inlets. The later seems to be less efficient though with low power lamps. An in-line system should be on the outlet side of your canister filter so the best quality water will pass through it. A drop in solution should be used alone and without the existing normal filter pump you might have in there. Ok, got it, but how do I actually use it now? Despite common thinking a UV-C system should not run 24/7 like your normal filter. You really only need it to solve problems you should not have in a healthy tank! It is not a magical solution to make your underlaying problems go away ;) Let's start with the most common reason someone buys a UV-C system: An algae or bacterial outbreak causing greenish or milky water. If that developed slowly over a period of weeks then you would be better off to do a good clean of the tank and filter plus a decent water exchange. A few drops of meds will do the rest. And if you constantly get algae growing on your glass, ornaments and plants then your nutrient levels and water quality is not right anyway and needs a good check. But of course there is also the problem of light - too much for too long and unwanted gree appears everywhere. If in doubt reduce the light power, shade out natural light or reduce the on time for your lights. Having said that we now face the problem of a sudden outbreak after introducing new fish or plants. If you don't have a quarantaine tank chances are that sooner or later you get unwanted or even harmful guest into your tank. Here the UV-C will be beneficial, which is why a canister filter with build in light should have a seperate switch or power supply for the light. After an outbreak or while introducing new life into your tank the UV-C will remove a lot of the things that we don't want to bring along. For new life I leave the light on non stop for a week, that is for a small 4ft tank with 200 liters. To control an outbreak it depends on how bad it is. I assume here you can still see the back of your tank but that the water either appears greenish or slightly milky from bacteria. As a personal thing I prefer to to remove and clean my filter material before treating a severe outbreak. Once done I fill the filter with a mix of activate carbon material and fine filter wool. Reason for this quite simple: The outbreak causing stuff is already in your filter material and will be a constant source of re-infection. And since breaking down all this bad stuff causes even more bad stuff to be produced as biological waste we want to discard it properly once done. Using just fine filter wool and activated carbon also reduces the flow rate bit if compacted ;) Now we can turn on the light and pump and forget about it for a while. It is not recommended to run UV lights on a timer as you want them on all time to prevent short lifespan and have ongoing treatment of the water. Good idea to take a picture at the same of a day from now on to compare and check results. After 3 days the water should definately be clearer, if not then either your filter material is packed too losse or the lamp is no good. Once the water appears to be clear do a readin test - take a newspaper behind the tank and check if the text is clear - blurry means the water is still not clean. You will reach a point where the water quality will not further improve as much as in the days before. This is the time where you discard or clean out to dry your filter material and put the original stuff back in. The activated carbon should be discarded of course. You cleaned filter material will now need a certain time to grow enough good bacteria to go back to the old performance. During this time you should still leave the light on. In most cases with enough fish and plants in the tank a week should be sufficient. After that you can leave the light off and keep the tank fit and healthy. Special case: Algae everywhere! Especially after getting a new plant you can end up with quite pesty algae growth. Be it these long ghost hair types or in a bad case the black stuff growing on plants, ornaments and the glass. I have even seen tanks with algae covering the entire bottom of the tank causing the gravel to look like carpet. Here I can only advise to set up a quarantaine tank for your fish. Then remove all infested material for manual removal and cleaning. Infested plants should be cut clean and what can be boiled should be boiled in water for a few minutes. Now start scrubbing in the tank with ongoing water replacements. I prefer to let everything settle over night without any bubbler or pump running. This way I can suck up a lot of sediment the next day. If you can remove all plants and fish you can now use hydrogen peroxide and add it to your tank water. But this is only feasable for small desktop tanks. Before using the UV as above to cure an outbreak you should consider all water one last time. Allow at least 2 weeks with ongoing water checks before adding plants back in and another week before placing your fish back in the tank. The week before adding fish should be used to monitor the plats for any signs of algae you might have missed - if you find any remove it! A week after the fish is back in you can turn off the UV light. Underwater UV-C light!? In most online stores you will find quite cheap UV lights to be advertised as underwater or in tank use. Although it might sound tempting you should be well aware of the dangers of using them. The glass of your tank will block the harmfull UV rays but the water surface won't, so either don't ever look at it or use proper sunglasses with real UV protection. Apart from the dangers to you these lamps are not just cheap in price but also cheaply produced. That means there is no way of telling how much or how little UV-C is produced. If they are good then you still need to know in what type of tank setup you can use them. As plants can tolerate a bit of UV a placement as far away from the nearest plant should do, especially if you can place a bubble wall betwenn light and plants. The fish is another thing as some seem to be unaware of the danger in their tank. This means they can get too close to the light but I have not found any articles explaining how harmful UV-C is to fish or their eyesight. I guess once your fish starts to bounce into everything you know... ;) My advise is to stay away from the idea of hanging a UV-C lamp in your tank, the risk for you and your tank is just not justified. If you need to go cheap then get two or thre of these lamps so you have spares. But use them externally ;) Meaning: Take a UV proof plastic container of small size and place the light in there. To be really safe tape the lid and all holes for the hoses with black tape. Place the container above the water level of your tank and if you only have an internal filter pump push a suitable sized hose into the outlet to feed into you canister. Check how high you pump can make it and place the outlet or overflow slightly below this level. When to change the light? If you made it all the way down here then you might already had the benefit of using light to "cure" your tank. Now we are faced with the high replacement cost for the lamp itself. Ususally only flouroscent tubes are used. It is always good to check after purchase what type of lamp and manufacturer (if there is one) was used. In some cases the system itself is like an inkjet printer: Just a cheap way to make you buy the consumables. Let's say you new in-line filter was priced at $100 to have a nice round number, some are cheaper some much more expensive. The lamp used might be an exotic type and not even be available easy, so before you buy your system check where you can get spares, not just the lamp of course. A replacement lamp can be as ceap as 20 bucks or cost even more than your system if you need to order it elsewhere. The quartz glass sleeve can break too meaning you then need a lamp and cylinder. Going with a reputable brand and paying a bit more certainly helps to get spares in the future. Let's just assume you either got your system in bulk due to the price of replacement lamps or can get them at a reasonable price. UV-C lamps are not like your normal flouroscent light tubes you have around or maybe even on top of your tank. Consider them like the tubes used in the now unhealthy tanning beds. After a certain amount of time they no longer produce enough of the short wave UV light that we need. As you can't see it and most of us won't have the means to specifically measure it we have to trust manufacturers recommendations. For most good brands the numbers are the same: 8000 hours max. Considering the costs it does make sense to keep written track of the usage. Not too hard since we won't use them like normal lights but instead have them on for a week or more without turning them off. I recommend to have a replacement at hand long before you need it. A lamp can fail premature, crack or simply burn out. The 8000 hours are based on 24 hour usage, so one day on, one day off. This could mean for us the lifetime can be slightly longer but I would not go over 9000 hours. As a rule of thumb: If the water does not show good signs of getting clear on day thre the lamp is due.
Posted by Downunder35m 9 months ago
I have found a sega genesis at a yard sell for $12. I don't have the stuff right now. It is vary old so I opened it. It is very dusty, so should I clean it with the same things like the why to clean the NES or anything else thing clean it with? - ninjacat64
Posted by NinjaCat64 9 years ago
I need help in figuring out a way to clean the build-up in my dryer vent run. The run is in a crawl space and approximately 25 feet long. I have been unable to find anything available to run through it to clean the lint buildup. Thanks in advance for any viable suggestions.
Posted by imasiberian 9 years ago
Hey, I'm looking to build a rain barrel, and found out that my local car wash is willing to give me a 55 gallon drum. The thing is, I don't know what kind of soap they use (I would have asked, but the guy was impossible to understand) or how to clean it out. If anybody has experience in this, that'd be great!
Posted by Weissensteinburg 9 years ago
hello everybody i have recently been given the task of cleaning my family's shower and it is pretty bad (if you don't believe me see the pictures) what i need is help creating something that will get rid of the grime that has taken hold of my shower i am concerned that this will become a health issue if left unattended any ideas are good ideas thank you, fidgety2
Posted by fidgety2 7 years ago
I just picked up a branson 5210 2.5 gallon ultrasonic cleaner.i will be using it to clean aluminum motorcycle carbs that have been sitting and become encrudded.i have gotten a lot of suggestions as to what sort of home brew recipes work well, i was hoping people around here could tell me what they use or have heardi will be ordering some of the carb cleaning stuff from sharperteks website to compare it to different homebrew recipes. my goal is ease and lack of cost here. thankshttp://i9.ebayimg.com/01/i/001/43/54/91b8_35.JPG
Posted by 666mph 9 years ago
I have recently acquired an old IBM mouse. I was planing to turning it into one of those mouse bots, but after looking inside I couldn't bring my self to do it. So now I want to clean it up. The former owner had put on black scotch tape racing stripes. So now there are 3 dirty yellowish streaks of adhesive any ideas as to how to make it look like new ? thanks in advance
Posted by clasic_traveller_diehard 9 years ago
I recently mad an instructable and entered it into the contest. i am pretty sure it met the requirements of the contest. check it out and comment either on here or on the instructable itself if you think there is any reason for it not being accepted yet. https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Clean-a-Computer-Mouse/ it might be still pendin but im not sure
Posted by EPL 9 years ago
Found a few easy recipes for making green cleaning products... Anyone have more suggestions? "Americans spend millions of dollars a year on cleaning supplies. This spring, make your own cleaning agents with these recipes from EarthShare and EarthWays, two nonprofit environmental organizations. The recipes are friendly to the environment and to your bank account." Air fresheners: Simmer a small amount of cinnamon, orange peel, and cloves on the stove to give off a pleasant fragrance in your home. Glass cleaner: Mix 2 tablespoons of borax or washing soda with three cups of water for sparkling windows and mirrors. Carpet freshener: Sprinkle dry cornstarch or baking soda on your carpet and vacuum. Furniture polish: Combine 1/2 cup lemon juice to 1 cup vegetable oil, olive oil, or mayonnaise. Apply to rag. Source: ManageMyHome
Posted by DinaC 9 years ago
I have a very large and very nice silicon graphics monitor, but the screen marks very easily. It's coated in something purple that I assume is some sort of anti-reflective coating. Basicly the problems are that pretty much anything that touches will mark it and the marks are occasionally difficult to remove. Cleaning it also leaves smear marks that can only really be removed by rubbing the screen quite hard with a cloth and crap just seem to collect around the edges. I've tried water/soap/petrol/alcohol and pretty much anything else i can get my hands on but nothing seems to work. Any tips?
Posted by pyper 10 years ago
Here is the worlds largest trash dump, in the middle of the pacific, it is twice the size of texas. (a little less than Alaska for people who don't know how big texas is) and it needs to be cleaned up. me and a friend have tried to find some way to do it but were just high school students in north virginia. We are going to need your help to clean it up, so please help through any means possible. Even something such as recycling, reusing, or just trying to get others to do something will help greatly thanks.
Posted by DELETED_professor awsome 6 years ago
I hope you can help me here, my whole soldering iron tip is covered in oxides, except the very end of the tip, that part is fine. The oxides won't come off, I even tried to use the tip cleaner stuff, but that did not work, it only prevent the oxides from forming... :(
Posted by Plasmana 9 years ago
Hi i hope this is the right place; I just found a somewhat clean way to get rid of flies in the house, spray them with spray starch (for ironing clothes) and they will slow down so they can be caught and put outside, or use paper to pick up and remove them. I had spray starch in the kitchen and the weather changed here, its humid and suddenly there are flies in the house. i dont like to swat them and leave that to clean up; by chance i used the starch, it took some effort to target them but it worked. i did this last nite, today the 2 i sprayed apparently shook it off were not hurt, so anyone who wouldnt want to hurt a fly could spray them with starch, put them out and there is no mess to clean and nature can do what nature does.
Posted by rogersbr 3 years ago
So I have an EPSON Stylus CX 5400 that will not print a darn thing. After test printing, running the "clean heads" function, and doing head alignment repeatedly, I called EPSON with my frustrated bafflement. To which they replied that my printer heads must have dried out, therefore the printer is shot, and they would be happy to sell me a new one. Which I think is nonsense - There's got to be a way to clean out dried printer heads, right? Or is this wishful thinking? I opened it up, but being the non geek I am have not figured out what the heck printer heads look like, and can't figure out how to remove the component where they must be. Is cleaning out dried up printer heads a pipe dream, or can someone tell me how to do this for this type of printer? I just hate to think of trashing a huge piece of electronics, and I would rather not buy a new printer. Thanks
Posted by sootches 10 years ago
My name is Brian Smith and I am a recent graduate of Spring Valley High School in Columbia, South Carolina. I have done research in the field of robotics in the past for science competitions. I will be attending Georgia Tech beginning in the fall. What I would like to do with the iRobot Create is simply to extend the original functionality of the Roomba by allowing the robot to both scale and vacuum a carpeted staircase. From a functional perspective, ideally the robot would clean the first floor of a a two story house for some predetermined period of time, and then climb the stairs, cleaning them on ascent. The robot would then clean the second floor of the house for a predetermined period of time before descending the stairs once more to recharge and then begin the cycle again. As far as implementation is concerned, the first step of the cleaning process is quite straightforward; the robot will clean the first floor randomly using the same or similar algorithms as the Roomba. After the predetermined cleaning period for the first floor has elapsed, things get a bit more complicated. The robot will then seek out an infrared beacon marking the base of the staircase to begin ascending/cleaning the stairs. For this task, the mechanics of the system will be just as important as the software. Essentially, the robot must square itself with the first stair at which point it will deploy its equipped "stair rails" which creates a ramp which the robot can use to ascend the first stair. The robot then collects the rails, cleans the first step, and redeploys the rails to ascend the second step. This process continues for each step until the robot reaches the second floor of the house. The then robot resumes random cleaning of the second floor. By similar principles, the robot then descends the stairs and finds its recharging station on the first floor. Although I feel that this project will be challenging, I also feel that it is reasonably within my capabilities to be completed by the deadline.
Posted by thisisbrians 11 years ago
Biologist Jeremy Gray explains how penguins are cleaned up after the New Zealand spill: First the penguins must be warm and happy. Most are kept overnight before washing, as it is very stressful and they need to get their strength up. Then the birds are brought into the cleaning room and put on the table. Normally detergent is used to clean wildlife caught in an oil slick. But the fuel oil that's spilled from the Rena is really thick, so we first rinse the birds with canola oil, sold as cooking oil at the supermarket. This helps soften the fuel oil and get off the really thick stuff. Then the penguin is washed multiple times in 25L basins of warm water - about 41C, to match the bird's body temperature - with 100ml of dishwashing detergent in each basin. We use specially imported dishwashing liquid that's the best for the job. We change water four or five times. One vet holds the bird, while the other scrubs it. We have toothbrushes for the delicate bits. Once the oil is gone, the bird gets a final rinse in warm water only, and is then checked for any missed spots, and the detergent is washed off. It takes about 45 minutes to an hour for each bird to be washed. The birds are then taken to a clean room and put under heat lamps and blowers to dry. The clean room is strictly oil-free - no-one who has touched any oil is even allowed in, in order to prevent recontamination. Once clean and dried, the birds are kept in a water tank until healthy enough to be released. And swimming in clean water lets them preen their feathers back to their natural condition. During my shift - we're only allowed to work eight hours - I helped clean three penguins. And as I was sent home they were gearing up to do the rest. At the time there were six dirty penguins (seven until one died before cleaning), seven clean penguins, one clean seal and two clean shags. More penguins and seals have since arrived. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Now for the knitting... The penguins are in danger from the cold (they're penguins, duh!), but they do need jumpers. A full-body woolly jumper stops them preening contaminated feathers and ingesting the toxic oil. Volunteers have been using this pattern from Skeinz.com and knitting jumpers to keep the Little Blue penguins safe. So far, I have only seen photos of the jumper being worn by stuffed toys - if you come across one being used for real, could you let me know? More links: Oiled Wildlife Response Jeremy Gray's Flickr (the original source of the penguin photos)
Posted by Kiteman 6 years ago
I want to clean and reuse my washing machine water to wash clothes. The system must be #1 cheap to build(off the shelf parts), #2 cheap to use(wasting power to save water is stupid). I am thinking, an easily accessed fine mesh lint trap. A second stage to remove chemicals (sand?charcoal?) and a third to kill any buggies (UV light?). I will also need to address which products are best to use for this system. And of course a valve too return to the "normal" system for some occaisions. Thanks for any input . nursenary
Posted by nursenary 6 years ago
Hi. I made the instructable of A_Steingrube"high quality and safe nickel plating" address:https://www.instructables.com/id/High-Quality-and-safe-Nickel-Plating/ and i want to be sure that i did the elctro-cleanning that is mention on step 4 correctly. I try to ask A_Steingrube through the comment place and the private message but i have not get any answer yet.so i try to ask here. I made the elctro cleaning while my object was connected to the positive voltage and the wire connected to the negative voltage.I did that ,because i understand that the object sould be dissolved abit and this should be happens on the anode(connected to the positive voltage) but in step 4 he mention to connect the object to the negative voltage in order to make the electrocleanning.SO,is there something that i miss here? Thanks in advance.
Posted by xchcui 4 years ago
Bushwick Project for the Arts in Brooklyn is a ~3500 sq. ft. art space off the Montose L stop in Bushwick, and we are putting together a "science fair" for adults. Basically we want to get some people to use our space to demonstrate ways that city folk can help the environment on a day to day basis. All of us here at the space have been really saddened by what's happened in the gulf and wanted to have a positive event to focus on clean and renewable energy. We're looking for folks to submit ideas for installations, demonstrations, films, presentations, or whatever you've got or do. The event is going to be on Saturday, June 26th and will most likely start early evening. Send me an email if you're interested... email@example.com
Posted by ChampagneSequins 8 years ago
How do I get my program setup to correctly read the signal from my reciever to the arduino. I am trying to drive a motor controller and it sometimes works but with very little consistancey. I don't know what to try, any information would be greatly appricated.
Posted by mfm5024 8 years ago
I want to attach something plastic to my motorcycle body (also plastic) temporarily. It needs to be pretty secure and preferably water-resistant, but it can't be irreversible. I'd rather not use clear plastic tape since that will be ugly and obvious. Any ideas?
Posted by DIYJRAY 2 years ago
CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO GET RID OF THE PERNAMENT BURNT IMAGE OF MICKY BLOODY MOUSE OFF MY PLASMA TV MY GRAND SON LOVES DISNEY PLAY HOUSE CHANNEL AND IT HAS LEFT A LARGE IMAGE OF MICKEY ON THE BOTTOM OF THE TV ALSO IS THERE A PROPER WAY TO CLEAN THE TV SCREEN I HEARD NOT TO CLEAN WITH GLASS CLEANER MANY THANKS KOVAKO
Posted by kovako2007 10 years ago
After Iâve done all the tool work to the parts Iâve polished, I have been doing a final coat by hand with wenol. i've used wenol for years on my motorcycles to keep them clean etc etc... i know that Iâm very partial to wenol, but what does everyone else use after the initial polish to shine/clean the metal?
Posted by freck 10 years ago
When I was cleaning my PC keyboard buttons G(because typing "G" character letter got some lags) and F(now it's not working I was cleaning Windows logo button and it's still working properly and in opposite side of this button is down when I loosen it, it skews diagonally.[img]https://i.imgur.com/pODvObr.jpg[/img][img]https://i.imgur.com/r6x5LyC.jpg[/img][img]https://i.imgur.com/OuotzUb.jpg[/img] It was when I was cleaning my keyboard with ear sticks slightly soaked in spirit(alcohol based liquid with transparent colour)[img]https://i.imgur.com/uBpBGEm.jpg[/img] can you help solve me this problem?How can I fix it?Should I buy new PC keyboard guys?
Posted by luke11685 14 days ago
An Instructable I published last night is not showing up in its category. I cannot pull it up under "Technology" or using recent under "Soldering" where I had published it. The link I have for it is - https://www.instructables.com/id/Cleaning-up-your-PCB/. Is there something I need to do to try to republish it?
Posted by Dave-T 6 years ago
I really don't like cleaning my house but I don't want to live in a garbage house. I'd like to have a floor cleaning system. For carpeted areas, I envision the that the system would use a Roomba and dock to a central vac system so that I wouldn't have to empty the Roomba. For the non-carpeted areas, I'd like to use a Scooba that connects to water and sewer. What are your thoughts?
Posted by sundet 6 years ago
Hi I have a Huskquavarna lawn mower I bought for $25 last year. The gas tank and carb were completely gummed up. I cleaned up the gas tank and rebuilt the carb and it ran fine all last summer, So this year I haul it out and put some gas in it won't run! The gas I put in it is kind of old but that never stopped it in the past. I know it has a good spark as when I spray a little carb cleaner in it fires right up,, until the "fuel" carb cleaner is used up. I cleaned up the carb (took it apart, blew it out, and cleaned it still it just5 wont suck the gas or what? Any suggestions?
Posted by JohnOPerry 4 years ago
Hello all, thought id share my progress of my 97' VW Golf mk3 VR6 2.8 to create some discussion and VAG banter. I brought her completly standard and wanted to build a real sleeper for road use and track use that is fast, practical for everyday use and safe for the family. When I got her back in 2009 she was a standard vr6 nothing really special just a well looked after example Firstly I gave her a good clean inside and out along with a service.......and by clean i mean really cleaning, shampoo the carpet, treat the leather, clean out the heater units, remove and shampoo the roof lining, polish and resin the paint, de greese and steam clean the engine bay to name some of the bits ive done. The result was a very clean base "template" Once all was clean and I could see areas for imporvement I began the work, replacing all the bushes, front and rear lower arms, brake lines, discs, calipers, exhaust were the easy steps When it came to the engine itself I did not want to mess about with it too much just improve the BHP and general running of the car as 174bhp from a 2.8 VR6 is shocking. So removed the engine and re conditioned the gearbox and clutch. While this was out I thought it best to also do the pull chain not a big job but much easier with everything out, once back in I still was not finished.... After giving the engine a full service with new plugs, leads, coil pack, oil change, rocker cover, inlet manifold, seals, upgraded air filter I decided to get the car chipped to see what BHP could be pulled out of her. Happy to say with all that work she was running on the first dyno 192bhp a massive improvement from standard 174bhp and all that from just replacing and upgrading some standard old parts with more expensive performance parts. Once the Chip was installed and the guys at the tuning store had done their works she was happily chucking out 216.4BHP With that I was more than happy and the work put in over the 6month period really showed. I then decided to have all but bumpers colour coded and did a few minor tweeks to the exterious to make her a clean standard example... I will add a full list of specs and work done soon, enjoy the pics feedback welcome
Posted by Jedi_zombie85 2 years ago